[Elecraft] K2 -Test part 11 problem

2007-02-18 Thread Timothy Vogan
Hi There I'm building my first K2 . everythings went fine untill alignment- 
test part 11. 4 mhz cal. can't get the counter from changing rapidlyor showing 
right numbers.The probe tested out ok. Anyone know of where to look first ? 
Thanks Tim KD8DBO

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Output Regulation Issue

2007-02-18 Thread Robert
It's irrelevant what the output of an amp is because it's a function of 
gain.
Meaning if you want 100W output and you have a rig capable of producing 
10W output then you need at least
a 10 to 1 ratio.  The bread and butter of any transceiver is its 
receiver.  If you can't hear em, you can't work em. 
Of course a properly designed transmitter is very important to ensure 
purity of signal.  Elecraft has designed an
excellent product that works better than most commercial amateur radio 
gear out there.  Personally I keep going back to
Elecraft because of the price features support and design.  That's why I 
own all their transceiver products. 

The best reviews comes from the owners themselves and is evident not 
only on this group, but several others throughout

the Internet.

Regards,
Robert VE3RPF


Fred (FL) wrote:

All the rave reviews, great reports, and
extraordinary K2 reviews - always deal with the
K2's receiver.  Never much at all about the
transmitter capability.  From your readings, and
QRP power levels - one would think it would 
be controlled better than your power meter/dummy

load have shown?  If one hangs a amplifier onto
K2 - I wonder what the amp's output range would be?

Fred, FL


 

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[Elecraft] K2 BFO Test Problems

2007-02-18 Thread Craig Young

Hello to the group.

I am currently working through the Alignment and Test, Part II and  
have run into the following issue.  When I perform the BFO Test, I  
don't get the proper range.  The set of values I get are:


BFO High Freq.: 4917.31 kHz
BFO Low Freq.:  4916.97 kHz
Range: 0.34 kHz

The documentation states that if the BFO range is less than 3.6 kHz,  
the varactor diodes (D37 and D38) or the crystals (X3 and X4) may be  
incorrect.  However, I've verified them and they are correct.  I've  
also gone around looking for bad soldering (cold joints or bridges)  
and didn't see anything obvious.  I've checked the resistors and  
capacitors in the BFO section and they appear to be correct.


Does anyone have any ideas of where I should look next?

73,

Craig AC6NN

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I: [Elecraft] Power Output Regulation Issue

2007-02-18 Thread paolo gramigna
 

 
Well,
I own a very good transceiver (IMHO at least; an Icom IC-781) permanently
connected to a vintage but outstanding Collins 30L-1 Linear Amplifier.
I have to say that i work only in CW. There i will have about 100W barefoot,
and about 400W if i switch on the 30L-1.

What i use for everyday's QSO activity is my Elecraft K2, the barefoot
version with about 10W output.

Now, we must keep in mind that every time we double the TX power, on the
receiving side there will be an increade of HALF an S-point. So, if my
Icom-781 with the 30L-1 amplifier on (400 W) will arrive somewhere at S9, it
will arrive at S8 if i switch off the amplifier (dividing the power by two
TWICE, so one full S-unit is gone).

Now, if i repeat the process, i will find that with a power output of 25W I
will be received at S7, and my nice Elecraft K2 will be received between S6
and S7.

Now it all depends on the receiving station. If he has a decent antenna, and
lives in a place where the background noise is acceptable (let say S2 to S3)
my K2 signal will pop-up about 4 S-points above the noise; and any decent OM
will be able to copy it without any problem...

So, what is the reason for owning a 400W transmitter? Well, IF the receiving
station is located downtown on a major city or in the middle of a railway
yard, THEN his background noise will be around S8, and now you see the ONLY
reason for switching on my BIG transceiver...

And now, the Coup-de-Grace. I own a KX-1 as well; on a 12V power supply it
pumps out about 3 Watts, and the receiver quality it's really outstanding.
If i hear somebody calling CQ from an Eastern Europe country, where there is
a good chance that the background electrical noise will be not so bad (most
of the times, on my request it was reported at S1) i can bet on my KX-1
being heard at first attempt; I still will arrive there with a S5 signal, or
maybe S4, but well above the noise level.

And i can tell you that NOTHING compares with the satisfaction of a making a
QSO with a station located at thousands of kilometers away, made with a
station smaller than my Vibroplex, all including.

Believe me, power is nothing. The quality and the taste of a pudding does
not relate to the weight of the ingredients.


Cheers,

IK4YNG Paolo






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[Elecraft] C22 page 65 question

2007-02-18 Thread glblock

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[Elecraft] C22 Page 65 Question

2007-02-18 Thread glblock
I saved this till last.  I only have 2 caps left in my tray.  On page 65 it says
that C22 is a 3.3 pf (3.3) in value..  I dont have that particular cap..but...on
page 1 of appendix A for the K2 RF board it says C22 is 2.7pf ( alt 3. or 3.3pf)
and its an NPO type..  The last cap i have is a real little blue ceramic type
one with 2.7c on one side and 1a on the other side.  Is this cap they mean?

WB0OMR...
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 RF Gain Control question

2007-02-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Todd, that sounds like a noisy pot in which the wiper isn't making good
contact with the resistive element inside. When you touch it, the circuit
opens briefly, which is the same as turning the RF Gain all the way to
minimum. That will cause the S-meter to read full scale. The delay returning
to normal should be the AGC decay rate. If you tap AGC to switch to FAST, it
should recover much more quickly. 

One fix is to put a few drops of a control lubricant on the control shaft
with the rig standing front panel upward so the lubricant will run into the
pot. Turn it a number of times to work it down into the resistive element. I
use Caig DeOxit for that. It comes in a small squeeze bottle with a hollow
needle applicator. Recommend you avoid any sprays. They get stuff all over
the place. If a spray is all you have, recommend you spray onto a small
screwdriver shaft or length of wire it to collect drops of liquid on the
wire or screwdriver shaft. Work away from the rig with a towel behind the
sprayer to catch the overspray. Then position the wet wire or screwdriver
shaft so the drops run down onto the pot shaft and into the pot itself. 

If it's a stubborn case, you may need to replace the pot. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

I just noticed that whenever I touch my RF gain control knob for adjustment
the S meter jumps completely to the right and VERY slowly drops to whatever
level of RF gain I have set.  It takes several seconds for the receiver to
come back to the point where it can receive again.  I have used other K2's
and this has not been the case.  Can someone else tell me if they see this
happening.  I probably haven't explained this very well but would be glad to
explain this more if needed.

Thanks, WA7U
Todd

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Gain Control question

2007-02-18 Thread Todd Gahagan

Thanks Tom,

I suspect the gain pot is defective.  I will check soldering also.  I'll get 
an RF gain pot on the way and try swapping it out also.


Todd 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Gain Control question

2007-02-18 Thread Ken Kopp
Spraying the chemical onto/into a Q-tip and 
then squeezing it out by pressing the cotton

against the upward-pointing shaft will avoid the
splattering.  


73! Ken Kopp - K0PP (K2 #5665)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Gain Control question

2007-02-18 Thread Todd Gahagan
The lube is a good place to start Ron.  Thanks.  I have noticed that just 
touching the RF knob causes this to happen so you are probably on to 
something here.  I don't have a lube other than tri-flow but will look for 
something like what you mentioned.  Todd 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 RF Gain Control question

2007-02-18 Thread Rod
How interesting. My #1126 K2 does exactly as you described Todd. Although I
rarely change the rf control level, I've always wondered why my K2 behaved
this way. It'll be interesting to see what kind of comments your question
brings. 

73,

Rod
K5BGB
Licensed June 1955

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Todd Gahagan
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 10:18 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RF Gain Control question

I just noticed that whenever I touch my RF gain control knob for adjustment
the S meter jumps completely to the right and VERY slowly drops to whatever
level of RF gain I have set.  It takes several seconds for the receiver to
come back to the point where it can receive again.  I have used other K2's
and this has not been the case.  Can someone else tell me if they see this
happening.  I probably haven't explained this very well but would be glad to
explain this more if needed.

Thanks, WA7U
Todd
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[Elecraft] K2 preamp attenuator combos

2007-02-18 Thread Mike Markowski
I'm writing some rig control code for the K2 and came across this in the 
KIO2 manual at the PA command:


Note: the preamp and attenuator can be turned on simultaneously under 
computer control to provide four different RF gain levels.


Two variables each with two settings gives you four combinations.  Easy 
enough, but does it really buy you anything to turn on both the 
attenuator and the preamp simultaneously?


73,
Mike ab3ap
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[Elecraft] RE: KX-1 Straight Key

2007-02-18 Thread Brian


K4ELV: You need to have a 3 pole plug on the straight key, even though only
the ground and tip are used.  I am not sure about the menu issue.  I fussed
with the two pole vs three pole plug issue myself, but it did no damage or
lasting troubles to the KX-1 when I was trying the two pole plug.

-Brian  KNØN

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 preamp attenuator combos

2007-02-18 Thread John Huffman

Mike -

I have seen rig control programs use the four combinations to simulate four 
steps of volume control since the volume knob can't be changed by computer control.


73 de K1ESE
John

Mike Markowski wrote:
I'm writing some rig control code for the K2 and came across this in the 
KIO2 manual at the PA command:


Note: the preamp and attenuator can be turned on simultaneously under 
computer control to provide four different RF gain levels.


Two variables each with two settings gives you four combinations.  Easy 
enough, but does it really buy you anything to turn on both the 
attenuator and the preamp simultaneously?


73,
Mike ab3ap
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 preamp attenuator combos

2007-02-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
In the real world, there's not much advantage to using both the attenuator
and preamp together. The preamp offers about 14 dB gain. The attenuator
offers about 10 dB attenuation, so using both of them produces an effective
preamp gain of about 3 dB.

Since the purpose of the preamp is to provide enough gain to override
internal mixer noise on the higher frequencies where band QRN is very low,
and the purpose of the attenuator is to reduce the gain when band QRN is
very high to improve the dynamic range of the receiver, using both of them
gives you the ability to tweak the gain slightly by 3 dB instead of steps
of about 10 to 15 dB. That might be useful when trying to keep the gain down
to the absolute minimum needed to avoid overload where several rigs are
working next to each other, such as a field day setup, but that's about the
only situation where I could envision that such fine adjustment might be of
value.   

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Markowski
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 10:22 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 preamp  attenuator combos


I'm writing some rig control code for the K2 and came across this in the 
KIO2 manual at the PA command:

Note: the preamp and attenuator can be turned on simultaneously under 
computer control to provide four different RF gain levels.

Two variables each with two settings gives you four combinations.  Easy 
enough, but does it really buy you anything to turn on both the 
attenuator and the preamp simultaneously?

73,
Mike ab3ap
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RE: [Elecraft] C22 Page 65 Question

2007-02-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
Yes, that is the one.  There is one problem with a manual being too specific
about the appearance of a component, particularly capacitors.  If the
capacitor manufacturer changes colors or the kit producer changes vendors
for a part for any reason, then the manual is no longer correct.  In this
case, the 2.7 pf cap (or 3.0 or 3.3 pf alternates) has changed to a
monolythic cap - it is probably better than the disc, but the manual picture
and part description is now incorrect - it is tough keeping up with all
these changes.

The only solution I know about is for the builder to acquaint
himself/herself with the various ways capacitors are marked so we can 'sway
with the punches' that are bound to happen over time.

Just for additional general information, mono C0G types capacitors and the
disc NPO types are interchangable.  The NPO designation is slowly being
phased out and C0G substituted by many manufacturers.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I saved this till last.  I only have 2 caps left in my tray.  On
 page 65 it says
 that C22 is a 3.3 pf (3.3) in value..  I dont have that
 particular cap..but...on
 page 1 of appendix A for the K2 RF board it says C22 is 2.7pf (
 alt 3. or 3.3pf)
 and its an NPO type..  The last cap i have is a real little blue
 ceramic type
 one with 2.7c on one side and 1a on the other side.  Is this cap
 they mean?


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[Elecraft] KX1 page 26

2007-02-18 Thread RC

Assembly Part 1 complete
resistance checks completed
http://www.kc5wa.us/kx1/1727-05.jpg
infinity readings (although correct )
for banded end of D2 or D3 with
S1 on or off does not feel right?

RC kc5wa
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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 page 26

2007-02-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
RC,

The resistance from the cathode of D2 or D3 to ground with S1 on will depend
a lot on your meter and the polorization of its leads.  To convince yourself
all is OK, try the reading at the open contact of Sw (should be zero ohms,
then on the ends of R23 (one end shoudl be zero and the other end should be
470 ohms, then at the legs of D1 - one side shoudl be 470 ohms and the other
side should be the same as you see at the D2/D3 cathodes.  If all things are
not that way, then you have something connected wrong or a bad solder
connection.

The schematic is easy to follow for this portion of the checks, look in the
upper right corner for D2/D3 and follow the path down the page through D1
and R23 and S1.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of RC
 Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 2:57 PM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 page 26


 Assembly Part 1 complete
 resistance checks completed
 http://www.kc5wa.us/kx1/1727-05.jpg
 infinity readings (although correct )
 for banded end of D2 or D3 with
 S1 on or off does not feel right?

 RC kc5wa
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[Elecraft] DSP terminology question

2007-02-18 Thread Dohn
Can anyone explain terminology associated with the DSP unit.  It's difficult
to know which way to begin adjusting individual areas of the DSP without
understanding.  At least for me.  I realize I could fiddle with them and
listen for change, but I'm not comfortable with that without a little
knowledge going in.

 

Terms such as:

 

1.  soft filtering and standard filtering
2.  Adjusting the Beta (aggressiveness) in the Denoiser
3.  Adjusting the hold/decay  time of the filter in Denoiser
4.  The same in the autonotch
5.  I guess I'm unclear what effect the autonotch is having on the
signal in SSB.  It is difficult to detect any difference with it on or off.
6.  Denoiser Gain sttings and there effect.
7.  Filter gain and balancing the audio gain.

 

I guess I need an expert in all things DSP.  I just want to understand them
better before tinkering with them.

 

Thanks in advance if there is info available from anyone.

 

Dohn  N8EWY

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Re: [Elecraft] DSP terminology question

2007-02-18 Thread Lyle Johnson
Can anyone explain terminology associated with the DSP unit... 
1.	soft filtering and standard filtering


Standard has steeper skirt selectivity.


2.  Adjusting the Beta (aggressiveness) in the Denoiser
3.  Adjusting the hold/decay  time of the filter in Denoiser
4.  The same in the autonotch


See the KDSP2 Manual Glossary pages 45 and 46 for a definition of these 
terms.


The easiest way to translate these definitions into understanding is to 
listen to some signals and change the parameter from 99 to 00 and back 
(just one tap does it).  You'll then get a good idea what each parameter 
does.



5.  I guess I'm unclear what effect the autonotch is having on the
signal in SSB.  It is difficult to detect any difference with it on or off.


If there is no carrier to notch, then it will do very little.  Tune in 
the 4 MHz birdie on the K2 in SSB mode.  Then turn the autonotch on and 
off and you'll hear what it is doing.  The, with it turned on, vary a 
parameter between 00 and 99 and then tune the radio 100 Hz or so and 
listen to how it cancels the tone.  After you tune with all four 
combinations 00/99, 99/99, 99/00 and 00/00) you should have a pretty 
good idea what these parameters do.


In general, I leave autonotch on to eliminate annoying carriers while I 
tune around in SSB mode.



6.  Denoiser Gain sttings and there effect.


Leave CW set a 0.0 dB.

Goto SSB and tune in a voice signal.  Turn the denoiser on and then 
adjust the SSB denoiser gain so the voice audio is about the same when 
you turn the denoiser on and off.  7.0 dB is reasonably close for more 
normal settings of the Denoiser parameters.



7.  Filter gain and balancing the audio gain.


These are present for audio balancing purposes and normally will just be 
left at 0.0 dB.


DO NOT USE THE FILTER GAIN MENUS TO INCREASE THE OVERALL GAIN OF THE K2! 
 If you do, you may have too much gain with strong signals, especially 
if the AGC is turned off.



I guess I need an expert in all things DSP.  I just want to understand them
better before tinkering with them.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] OT: LPFM transmitter wanted

2007-02-18 Thread Rod Ai7NN

Folks,

I found a dizzying array of items on the web, from MP3 device
attachments to rather high quality exciters for neighborhood
broadcasting. Anybody have a suggestion or two for a decent quality
rig that couples to an MP3/CD-player, stereo...etc. Only need to get
the signal 50-100ft or so.

Off list replies please, probably not of general interest to the list.

TIA
--
Rod, Ai7NN
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[Elecraft] no K2 Receive

2007-02-18 Thread glblock
I think I have a receive problem.  Just completed the last stage of the K2.  I
have a 20M receiver that is pickin up ssb on 14.250 ish... nice and strong.  The
K2 hears nothing.  I have a MFJ-207 and I set it to generate a 14mhz signal and
the K2 can find that signal..but its sitting right next to the rig  so I must be
seriously atten.  my RF somewhere.  any ideas?

all the xmitt tests work for 2, 5, and 10 wat output.  my dummy load gets warm
so I am putting out rf... all the buttons work.. keyer works..everything but no
receive..

WB0OMR
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: LPFM transmitter wanted

2007-02-18 Thread Phil Kane
On Sun, 18 Feb 2007 15:19:28 -0800, Rod Ai7NN wrote:

I found a dizzying array of items on the web, from MP3 device
attachments to rather high quality exciters for neighborhood
broadcasting. Anybody have a suggestion or two for a decent quality
rig that couples to an MP3/CD-player, stereo...etc. Only need to get
the signal 50-100ft or so.

  A LPFM station is in fact a broadcast station requiring a FCC
  license therefor, with all the rules and obligations pertaining
  thereto.  It is not a hobby or consumer operation.

  Regarding what you have in mind, unless the non-licensed device
  is CERTIFIED for operation in compliance with FCC Rules Part
  15, you risk losing your ham license for unauthorized operation.
  I spent 30 years with the FCC tracking down and putting such
  unauthorized devices off the air.

  I'm sure that with a little effort you can find a certified
  device - they do exist for exactly what you want - but much of
  what you find on the 'net is not certified.

Off list replies please, probably not of general interest to the list.

  It should be of interest to all licensed amateurs.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402




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RE: [Elecraft] no K2 Receive

2007-02-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
We don't have enough information to tell you where to look, it will take a
bit of troubleshooting just to discover where to start.

The first step is to see what part of the receiver is alive.  Do you hear
any noise at all with the AF and RF Gains turned up all the way?  If so,
there is something there, if not the troubleshooting gets more complicated,
so stop and let us know so we can advise on test techniques for the audio
section.

If you do hear something with the gains all the way up, the easiest next
step is to try the Quick and Dirty Signal Tracing that is available for
download from the Builder's Resource page of the Elecraft website.  Should
you not find the failing stage following that document, you will have to
resort to following the Receiver Signal Tracing shown in Appendix E of the
manual.  There is a strong oscillator schematic shown there and you should
consider building it to aid in your signal tracing.  You can build it easily
on a perfboard or even solder the parts together with 'flying leads' - I
built mine 'Ugly Construction' style on a small (3/4 inch x 1 1/4 inch)
piece of unetched PC board - I used a screwdriver adjust trimmer for the
output pot.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 I think I have a receive problem.  Just completed the last stage
 of the K2.  I
 have a 20M receiver that is pickin up ssb on 14.250 ish... nice
 and strong.  The
 K2 hears nothing.  I have a MFJ-207 and I set it to generate a
 14mhz signal and
 the K2 can find that signal..but its sitting right next to the
 rig  so I must be
 seriously atten.  my RF somewhere.  any ideas?

 all the xmitt tests work for 2, 5, and 10 wat output.  my dummy
 load gets warm
 so I am putting out rf... all the buttons work.. keyer
 works..everything but no
 receive..

 WB0OMR

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: LPFM transmitter wanted

2007-02-18 Thread Ken Kopp

Perhaps a (legal) wireless microphone would meet
the requirement.  Radio Scrap sells them.

As Phil has already cautioned ... don't endanger your license!

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] K2 to antenna Power

2007-02-18 Thread k7hbg
Good evening Elecrafters, may your Monday be a restfull one!

 I would like to send a low voltage limited current up the coax from my K2
to the antenna for powering a small device. What would be the best way to
inject this voltage into the antenna feed (coax) at the K2 and recovering
it up the stack? I was hoping to continue supplying this voltage even
while transmitting 100 watts.
 I thought that the transverter manuals might have some advice about
powering preamps but, not a word.

 Best regards, Bob K7HBG.
K2# 2836 which Will only be pried from my cold dead fingers
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 to antenna Power

2007-02-18 Thread Robert
You need as a minimum a capacitor in the coax center lead to your K2 in 
order to prevent DC from getting into the radio.  Second you will need a 
choke on your low voltage supply at a value that presents a large 
impedance to RF frequencies you are operating on and therefore blocking 
RF from entering your small supply voltage.  There really should be 
other components to ensure a fairly flat impedance reading across the 
bands you wish to operate.  The Handbook should have some examples of this.


Regards,
Robert
VE3RPF


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Good evening Elecrafters, may your Monday be a restfull one!

 I would like to send a low voltage limited current up the coax from my K2
to the antenna for powering a small device. What would be the best way to
inject this voltage into the antenna feed (coax) at the K2 and recovering
it up the stack? I was hoping to continue supplying this voltage even
while transmitting 100 watts.
 I thought that the transverter manuals might have some advice about
powering preamps but, not a word.

 Best regards, Bob K7HBG.
K2# 2836 which Will only be pried from my cold dead fingers
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO Test Problems

2007-02-18 Thread Craig Young

Hello again,

I've continued my troubleshooting efforts but the problem persists.   
I had reflowed all connections except those of X3, so I removed L33  
and R116 to do so.  Everything appears to be well connected and I  
don't see any shorts.


I checked the DC voltages on U11 using the internal probe and have  
the following values:


Pin 1:  1.4
Pin 2:  1.4
Pin 3:  0.0
Pin 4:  4.8
Pin 5:  4.8
Pin 6:  5.6
Pin 7:  5.0
Pin 8:  6.0

I used the RF probe to check the voltages with the following results:

U11, pin 6: 0.74
TP2:0.024

The DC voltages for U11 pins 6 and 7 are a bit low and the RF probe  
values are on the edges.  Is it possible that U11 is bad?


73,

Craig


On 18 Feb, 2007, at 10:46, Craig Young wrote:


Hello to the group.

I am currently working through the Alignment and Test, Part II and  
have run into the following issue.  When I perform the BFO Test, I  
don't get the proper range.  The set of values I get are:


BFO High Freq.: 4917.31 kHz
BFO Low Freq.:  4916.97 kHz
Range: 0.34 kHz

The documentation states that if the BFO range is less than 3.6  
kHz, the varactor diodes (D37 and D38) or the crystals (X3 and X4)  
may be incorrect.  However, I've verified them and they are  
correct.  I've also gone around looking for bad soldering (cold  
joints or bridges) and didn't see anything obvious.  I've checked  
the resistors and capacitors in the BFO section and they appear to  
be correct.


Does anyone have any ideas of where I should look next?

73,

Craig AC6NN

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 BFO Test Problems

2007-02-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
Craig,

The problem is most likely in one of the following  areas:
1) The L33 inductor
2) The varactors
3) The crystals themselves.

The very most likely problem is a poor solder connection, and the second
most likely is misplaced components.
The DC voltages look to be within reason, and it is probably not the fault
of U11.

We can get to precise measuremnts tomorrow, it is getting late here today.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Hello again,

 I've continued my troubleshooting efforts but the problem persists.
 I had reflowed all connections except those of X3, so I removed L33
 and R116 to do so.  Everything appears to be well connected and I
 don't see any shorts.

 I checked the DC voltages on U11 using the internal probe and have
 the following values:

 Pin 1:1.4
 Pin 2:1.4
 Pin 3:0.0
 Pin 4:4.8
 Pin 5:4.8
 Pin 6:5.6
 Pin 7:5.0
 Pin 8:6.0

 I used the RF probe to check the voltages with the following results:

 U11, pin 6:   0.74
 TP2:  0.024

 The DC voltages for U11 pins 6 and 7 are a bit low and the RF probe
 values are on the edges.  Is it possible that U11 is bad?

 73,

 Craig


 On 18 Feb, 2007, at 10:46, Craig Young wrote:

  Hello to the group.
 
  I am currently working through the Alignment and Test, Part II and
  have run into the following issue.  When I perform the BFO Test, I
  don't get the proper range.  The set of values I get are:
 
  BFO High Freq.: 4917.31 kHz
  BFO Low Freq.:  4916.97 kHz
  Range: 0.34 kHz
 
  The documentation states that if the BFO range is less than 3.6
  kHz, the varactor diodes (D37 and D38) or the crystals (X3 and X4)
  may be incorrect.  However, I've verified them and they are
  correct.  I've also gone around looking for bad soldering (cold
  joints or bridges) and didn't see anything obvious.  I've checked
  the resistors and capacitors in the BFO section and they appear to
  be correct.
 
  Does anyone have any ideas of where I should look next?
 
  73,
 
  Craig AC6NN
 
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[Elecraft] Sked

2007-02-18 Thread Stephen W. Kercel

Fellow Elecrafters:

I am trying to get 80 m QRP WAS with my K2. I have all states but 
Alaska and Idaho. I was wondering if there are list members in either 
state who would consider scheduling a contact with me.


73,

Steve
AA4AK


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[Elecraft] k1 - not able to align..

2007-02-18 Thread sergio t. ruiz


when i ordered my k2, i also ordered the noise generator...

i ordered this to help align my k1 that i have been having problems 
with.. on the k1, i am missing all sorts of signals that my cheapie 
regen receiver is hitting loud and clear..


i am not sure what i am supposed to hear from the noise generator, but 
it sorta sounds like loudish static, BUT. even connecting the output to 
the input of my regen, i don't really hear anything..


anyway..

i had the internal tuner installed, so i took it out, and jumpered the 
board back to k1..


then, i put jumpred pins 2 and 10 on j2(i think it's j2)...

anyway...

on all bands but 18mhz, i just can't seem to peak the receiver..

18mhz peaks really well.. and i am comfortable that it's correct.. the 
rest are just guesses..


anyone have any ideas?

thanks!


--
___
peace,
sergio
photographer, journalist, visionary
www.village-buzz.com
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[Elecraft] k1 - changing to 80 khz range..

2007-02-18 Thread sergio t. ruiz


while i have my k1 opened to the hilt.. i am thinking about making a few 
more changes. i think i made a few bad judgment calls when first built 
the radio..


i would like to:

change to the 80khz range..

change the edge of 18hmz to 18.1mhz..

i could probably backtrack and make the change, but i would rather find 
something that is spelled out for me so i don't goof anything up by 
overlooking something..


is there such a document out there that elecraft puts their seal of 
approval on?


thanks!

--
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peace,
sergio
photographer, journalist, visionary
www.village-buzz.com
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