Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Maarten van Rossum
To me the argument that we have to buy our Japanese rigs from an importer
too, isn't a very good one.
Everyone in the world has to buy there Japanese rigs from a importer so
everybody has to pay more.
But with Elecraft equipment, only the Japanese have buy there stuff from a
importer whilst the rest of the world can buy directly from Elecraft and
therefore save some money.

73, Maarten
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgruntled Europeans

2010-01-05 Thread Peter, DL2FI

Okay we have VAT rates (Sales tax)
 that run between 15% and 22% depending on one's country but this does not
come
 close to explaining the price differentials.

Not only VAT, you forgot that European Dealers have to give 2 Years warranty
instead of 1 Year (or for some products only 90 Days) There also are much
higher cost for burocracy, office rental, man power, Insurance, tax. Not
only Ham Eqipment is more expensive over here, but houses, cars, Bananas,
Computers. (Ok, beer is cheaper in Germany :-)

We are working together with Elecraft since 10 years, selling all Elecraft
products. Several hundreds of European HAMs got their kits (and of course
also factory built K3) from us. I can´t count the number of K2, K1, KX1
which have been finished on my workbench due to problems the builders had.
Some DXPeditions by Germans could start only because we did a repair 3 days
before take off.

We proudly feel as a part of the Elecraft Family.

Peter, DL2FI and Nik, DL7NIK
QRPproject



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Open question : K3 and interfaces used for digi modes...

2010-01-05 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

 Lionel-F6FCD wrote:

 Who and how are you using Elecraft products with interfaces for 
 digi-mode
 ?
 What are you doing with ? what kind of mode is interresting ?

 And alsowhat kind of software.a lot are available on the 
 web

The interface I use for digital modes is simply two audio cables 
line in/out on the K3 to line out/in on the PC sound card and a 
quiet homebrew RS232 cable for logging and PTT you could use VOX, I 
don't bother with rig control for me that is what the knobs are for. 
NO fancy expensive interface required for basic operation.

Software is Logger32 with built in digi mode support (MMTTY  
MMVARI).  It all takes a bit of setting up, RTFM time, an alien 
concept in the age of instant gratification.  Modes used are RTTY, 
PSK31, JT65A (eme).

Personally speaking I find much of the time the digital modes are 
like watching paint dry but sometimes it is the only way that a QSO 
will be made with some locations at present and the known capability 
is useful.  Once macros are set up digi modes are simple to use 
except that some folks feel the need to include their life history, 
club affiliations and inside leg measurement in a macro.  One huge 
advantage of digi modes, and CW is that they are quiet, unlike 
voice, and can be used without disturbing the household.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Mods...

2010-01-05 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

On the AGC response, lowering C31 will decrease the delay time for the 
AGC, and lowering C67 should increase the attack time.
I think the attack time is about right on the K1, and it is a matter of 
choice whether you want to decrease the delay time.  This is audio 
derived AGC, so while quite effective in protecting the ears it is never 
as good as an AGC system that is derived at the IF (as in the K2).

I would recommend using the K1 with the stock values for a while to 
determine if you want to make any changes.

Yes, a bypass capacitor on R30 will increase the gain of the driver, but 
the driver transistor has recently been changed to a 2SC5739 which has 
higher gain at higher frequencies than the 2SC2166, so this mod should 
not be installed with the new transistor in place.  If you cannot get 
adequate power out on all bands (greater than 5 watts with a 13.8 volt 
power supply), look for the problem elsewhere.  Such a problem will 
usually be found in the low pass filter.

73,
Don W3FPR

John H Farmer wrote:
 Hello All,

 I'm new to the group, so this is to say hello.  I'm happily breathing life
 into my  K1 #2822. It arrived for Xmas.  The build is going well and my
 toroid winding skills are improving :)

 I have a couple of questions about K1 mods:

 About the ACG response time mod :  changing C31 to a lower value cap ( from
 2.2uF to 1uF or lower) is mentioned most often,
 but there is a  variation of opinion whether C67 should be lowered also.
 Many of the postings about this are several years old.  I was just wondering
 if ideas about this have evolved any further?  

 Secondly, I've read on JL3AHK's site, about a mod to increase OP power of
 the K1 to a consistent 7W across all bands.  He suggests adding a 0.001uF
 cap in parallel with R30 on the RF board. I can't find any reference to this
 mod anywhere in the archives.  Any opinions on this mod?

 This K1 is my first Elecraft rig. I'm learning lots and having fun.  It's
 practice for a K2.
   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-05 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rick,

Thanks for that clarification on the supply voltage.
Yes, in most cases, the K1 will hear better than the FT-817.
You should be able to have 5 watts or more on 20 meters with that supply 
voltage.  You said you made some improvement by squeezing the turns on 
the LPF, so the LPF may be your only problem.  Re-count the turns on the 
20 meter LPF toroids - count the number of times the wire passes through 
the center of the core.

If you have an antenna analyzer, I can tell you how to set-up to check 
the LPF cutoff frequency as a check.

73,
Don W3FPR

Rick/WA6ES wrote:
 Hi Don
   13.8v. I get 7 watts on 40m and just want a little more for 20m. I am
 happy with the little thing. Actually I was switching between my ft817 and
 the K1. Maybe it is me but the K1 heard a little better. Or maybe it is just
 me that I made the K1

 Rick/WA6ES
 K1 SN:2820


 Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
   
 Rick,

 What is your power supply voltage?  The K1 maximum output is quite 
 dependent on the supply voltage, so if you are using 12 volts instead of 
 13.8 volts, that may explain your 4.4 watt power output limit.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Rick/WA6ES wrote:
 
 Marc
   Well I worked on the winding spacing and got it up to a little over 4
 watts, actually 4.4, so that did help. I sent off an email to Elecraft
 yesterday when I posted this and no answer yet, maybe I will call them
 and
 talk to Scott there. I have to get a couple of speaker slides, heck those
 things are small! I even played with the 40m section and got another watt
 out there also!
 Can I live with 4.4 watts on 20,maybe, but if I get more pwr out, even
 better.

 Thanks again for the info
 Rick/WA6ES

   

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 for sale

2010-01-05 Thread Gilbert Cross
Gilbert Cross wrote:
 Gilbert Cross wrote:
   
   K2   s/n 3346

   Has the following options:

   KIO2
   KAT2
   KSB2
   K160RX
   KNB2
   KAF2
   MH2
   CW tuning indicator
   T/R relay driver switching is with the same mosfet used in 
 the K3

   Frequency calibration is excellent
   Filters are set up using Spectrogram and with the wife 
 monitoring through headphones she says I sound natural
   Very nice radio. Of course comes with all manuals and cables 
 Ready to operate

   Asking$900.00
   If interested please contact me off list.

 Thank youGilK8EAG

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-05 Thread Rick Dettinger

   I ordered a Palomar VLF converter a year ago from HRO and they had  
to refund my money.  They said that the VLF converter was no longer  
being made.  The Palomar Engineers web site seems to reflect this.   
They only show balun stuff, now.

73,

Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Jan 4, 2010, at 7:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

 Wayne Burdick wrote:
 What I
 meant was that you *could* make a transverter for these bands and
 interface it to the K3 via KXV3 module. We don't have plans to  
 offer one
 ourselves.

 I've had a Palomar VLF Converter for years, works really great, and
 better with my K3.  Converts [allegedly] DC to 500 KHz to 3.5 to 4.0
 MHz.  LORAN-C noise here on the US Pacific Coast is a bit of a  
 problem,
 we're fairly close to Middletown CA which has a USCG LORAN station,  
 but
 the loop will null most of it out.  Seems to work good down to about  
 12
 KHz, then things get mushy.  I think I've even heard the power line
 carrier current telemetry ... we have a 145KV line close to us and I
 know it carries it, we have hydroelectric plants above and below us  
 and
 I can see the chokes in the substations.  That said, I haven't had the
 Palomar on for about a year, maybe I'll hook it up again and see  
 what's
 there.  There was some word [maybe urban legends] that the CG was  
 going
 to shut down LORAN-C in the face of GPS.  I've heard the West Coast
 500KHZ ham beacon several times, can't remember the call now.

 I really can't see why Elecraft would want to delve into such a low
 volume market when there are a number of cheap alternatives already  
 out
 there.  I'd rather they work on the solid-state amps :-)

 As a High School senior at 16, I got to work ships at sea on 500Kcs  
 from
 a coastal marine station as a relief operator.  The Holy Frequency is
 eerily silent these days compared to then, when it was a sort of
 world-wide party-line.  But, that was then and this is now.  LoFer is
 sort of fun for awhile, but I can't transmit there and the fun tends  
 to
 fade after I've identified all the NDB's I can hear.

 73 and a Good New Year to all,

 Fred K6DGW
 Auburn CA USA
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[Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread bob finger
I'm a brand new K3 user. Had it since yesterday and already love it.
I want to use the radio in split with both receivers linked all the 
time.  Unfortunately with N1MM if I click on a simplex spot both split 
and sub receiver are turned off.  Anyone know how I can defeat this so 
radio stays in split mode?  Thanks for the help.  73 bob de w9ge

-- 


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[Elecraft] K3 KXV3 RX Ant Output filter issue

2010-01-05 Thread Skip Munster
I am interested in connecting a 2nd receiver to monitor other bands using
the KXV3 RX Ant In/Out jacks. For example in the 'RX ANT mode', I have the
K3 on 40m and want to monitor 20m using an external receiver.  However,
there appears to be a 10 MHz low pass filter that is engaged in the K3 when
40m is selected.  If I select 20m on the K3, there is no 10 MHz LPF, and I
can receive 40m on the external receiver.  Why is this?  Is there a way to
disable band pass filters on the RX ANT Out?
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Hector Padron
WOW ! according that pdf document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf) If we 
add all the modules and filters price for a fully loaded K3,it will cost in 
japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand two hundred)yens,can anyone say 
how many USD is that amount,sounds like a lot 
 
AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

 WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be then over 5 
 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at 
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not render 
properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Tom Hammond
Hector:

According to several currency calculators:

   2,014,200 JPY = $21,983.0832 USD

Whew.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 09:38 01/05/2010, you wrote:
WOW ! according that pdf 
document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf) If we add all the 
modules and filters price for a fully loaded K3,it will cost in 
japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand two hundred)yens,can 
anyone say how many USD is that amount,sounds like a lot

AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

  WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be 
 then over 5 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not 
render properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread Barry N1EU

Bob, you're touching on a couple of areas where N1MM Logger's control of the
K3 isn't rock solid.

The best you can probably do for now is to check the config setting dual rx
always on.  With that setting, the subrx should stay on when a spot is
grabbed.   Personally, I'd like the software to leave the subrx alone and
allow me to control it manually, but haven't been able to persuade the
programmers.

With the current N1MM implementation, you must use the program to set and
reset split mode via alt-f7.  Otherwise, it doesn't know of any changes to
split status.  This is another area that needs programming attention.

Hopefully, N1MM Logger will improve in these two areas of K3 control in the
near future.

73,
Barry N1EU



bob finger wrote:
 
 Unfortunately with N1MM if I click on a simplex spot both split 
 and sub receiver are turned off.  Anyone know how I can defeat this so 
 radio stays in split mode?  
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/k3-and-N1MM-question-tp4255584p4255791.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-05 Thread Jack Smith
An alternative to Palomar is the VLF converter kit from Jackson Harbor 
Press.

I wrote a detailed review of the kit at
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/jackson_harbor_press_vlf_converter.htm

Jackson Harbor Press can be found at 
http://home.att.net/~jacksonharbor/ham.htm. Look for the LF Converter.

Jack K8ZOA


On 1/5/2010 10:00 AM, Rick Dettinger wrote:
 I ordered a Palomar VLF converter a year ago from HRO and they had
 to refund my money.  They said that the VLF converter was no longer
 being made.  The Palomar Engineers web site seems to reflect this.
 They only show balun stuff, now.

 73,

 Rick Dettinger   K7MW


 On Jan 4, 2010, at 7:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:


 Wayne Burdick wrote:
  
 What I
 meant was that you *could* make a transverter for these bands and
 interface it to the K3 via KXV3 module. We don't have plans to
 offer one
 ourselves.

 I've had a Palomar VLF Converter for years, works really great, and
 better with my K3.  Converts [allegedly] DC to 500 KHz to 3.5 to 4.0
 MHz.  LORAN-C noise here on the US Pacific Coast is a bit of a
 problem,
 we're fairly close to Middletown CA which has a USCG LORAN station,
 but
 the loop will null most of it out.  Seems to work good down to about
 12
 KHz, then things get mushy.  I think I've even heard the power line
 carrier current telemetry ... we have a 145KV line close to us and I
 know it carries it, we have hydroelectric plants above and below us
 and
 I can see the chokes in the substations.  That said, I haven't had the
 Palomar on for about a year, maybe I'll hook it up again and see
 what's
 there.  There was some word [maybe urban legends] that the CG was
 going
 to shut down LORAN-C in the face of GPS.  I've heard the West Coast
 500KHZ ham beacon several times, can't remember the call now.

 I really can't see why Elecraft would want to delve into such a low
 volume market when there are a number of cheap alternatives already
 out
 there.  I'd rather they work on the solid-state amps :-)

 As a High School senior at 16, I got to work ships at sea on 500Kcs
 from
 a coastal marine station as a relief operator.  The Holy Frequency is
 eerily silent these days compared to then, when it was a sort of
 world-wide party-line.  But, that was then and this is now.  LoFer is
 sort of fun for awhile, but I can't transmit there and the fun tends
 to
 fade after I've identified all the NDB's I can hear.

 73 and a Good New Year to all,

 Fred K6DGW
 Auburn CA USA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Barry N1EU

Looking at the same PDF, I get 622,900 yen = $6800 plus 22,900yen/$250 per
8-pole filter.

73,
Barry N1EU



Tom Hammond-2 wrote:
 
 Hector:
 
 According to several currency calculators:
 
2,014,200 JPY = $21,983.0832 USD
 
 Whew.
 
 73,
 
 Tom   N0SS
 
 At 09:38 01/05/2010, you wrote:
WOW ! according that pdf 
document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf) If we add all the 
modules and filters price for a fully loaded K3,it will cost in 
japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand two hundred)yens,can 
anyone say how many USD is that amount,sounds like a lot

AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

  WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be 
 then over 5 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

 
 
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Disgrunteled-Japanese-tp4250692p4255835.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-05 Thread Rick/WA6ES

Byron
  I am using the meter on the K1. I also have an MFJ Tuner/meter combo for
QRP that is not that accurate. I will be purchasing a new meter soon. Not
sure about the KAT1 issue, that is my next purchase along with the Battery
pack. Maybe Don/W3FPR could help answer this.

Don
  Yes please tell me how to read the cut off Freq. I have the MFJ type.

Thanks
Rick/WA6ES


Byron Servies-2 wrote:
 
 On Jan 4, 2010, at 9:02 PM, Rick/WA6ES wrote:
 
 How are you measuring the power output?
 
 With my new K1 using a DL1 and KAT1 I get exactly the number of bars on
 the TX LCD bar graph as I set in the output menu for power output using a
 13.8 vold power supply, from 2 to 7.  This is true for all 4 bands, with
 the only difference being if I don't tune it takes a few CQ's for the KAT1
 to catch up, as expected.
 
 Just curious what I might be missing,
 
 Byron KI6NUL
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Matt Palmer
Need to learn to count there hector, that number seems a bit high
based on my calculation more like 6-7k. 1 yen roughly equals $0.01. So
not so much. I think you added multiple K3's in there, if you just
added up all the colums. The price is even lower if you dont get
factory built.


Matt
W8ESE
心正即刀正



On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 10:48 AM, Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Hector:

 According to several currency calculators:

   2,014,200 JPY = $21,983.0832 USD

 Whew.

 73,

 Tom   N0SS

 At 09:38 01/05/2010, you wrote:
WOW ! according that pdf
document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf) If we add all the
modules and filters price for a fully loaded K3,it will cost in
japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand two hundred)yens,can
anyone say how many USD is that amount,sounds like a lot

AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

  WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be
 then over 5 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not
render properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese [END of thread]

2010-01-05 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Guys - Lets end this thread for now. This is something we are acutely 
aware of and are constantly working on.

73, Eric   WA6HHQ
Elecraft list moderator.



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Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
In N1MM on entry window, click config in menu bar.  About half way down,
click on Dual RX always on.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 10:06 AM, bob finger fin...@goeaston.net wrote:

 I'm a brand new K3 user. Had it since yesterday and already love it.
 I want to use the radio in split with both receivers linked all the
 time.  Unfortunately with N1MM if I click on a simplex spot both split
 and sub receiver are turned off.  Anyone know how I can defeat this so
 radio stays in split mode?  Thanks for the help.  73 bob de w9ge

 --


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Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

There are several other issues with N1MM Logger and the K3. 

1) N1MM Logger sets the wrong sideband when changing bands 
   because it sets mode before changing frequencies 
2) N1MM logger drops out of run when operating split and 
   tuning VFO A (receive VFO) 
3) the UP/DN keys for moving RIT operate in a fixed 20 Hz 
   or 100 Hz step instead of the values set in the N1MM 
   configuration. 
4) N1MM Logger does not follow the split/sub status set on 
   the transceiver front panel (even though support is 
   present in the K3 CAT protocol to determine sub/split 
   status).  

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Barry N1EU
 Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 10:46 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question
 
 
 
 Bob, you're touching on a couple of areas where N1MM Logger's 
 control of the K3 isn't rock solid.
 
 The best you can probably do for now is to check the config 
 setting dual rx always on.  With that setting, the subrx 
 should stay on when a spot is
 grabbed.   Personally, I'd like the software to leave the 
 subrx alone and
 allow me to control it manually, but haven't been able to 
 persuade the programmers.
 
 With the current N1MM implementation, you must use the 
 program to set and reset split mode via alt-f7.  Otherwise, 
 it doesn't know of any changes to split status.  This is 
 another area that needs programming attention.
 
 Hopefully, N1MM Logger will improve in these two areas of K3 
 control in the near future.
 
 73,
 Barry N1EU
 
 
 
 bob finger wrote:
  
  Unfortunately with N1MM if I click on a simplex spot both split
  and sub receiver are turned off.  Anyone know how I can 
 defeat this so 
  radio stays in split mode?  
  
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/k3-and-N1MM-question-tp4255584p4255791.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 Firmware Suggestion

2010-01-05 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Bill,

I find once I set on the PC it stays on even when I shut down.  This may not
be reflected in the current manual.  I think there will be additional work
on the software.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill Miner
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 9:49 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] W2 Firmware Suggestion

With all the recent discussion about the W2 I decided to actually read the
on-line manual and check the specs for my self.
 
Upon further reading I discovered that to set the SWR alarm feature it is
necessary to have a PC connected and to set the alarm each time the unit is
powered up.
 
If possible, it would be nice to be able to turn on the alarm feature from
the front panel of the W2 and once set,  have the alarm enable in memory so
that it was not necessary to do this every time the unit is power cycled..
 
OBTW I am very pleased with the current firmware load for the K3.  
 
Thanks  73,
Bill - K6WLM
K3
K2
KX1


  
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread Brian Moran
Perhaps related to 4 -- clicking on a spot in VFO-A bandmap turns off the 
sub-receiver if it's on.

--- On Tue, 1/5/10, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question
 To: 'Barry N1EU' barry.n...@gmail.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 8:32 AM
 
 There are several other issues with N1MM Logger and the K3.
 
 
 1) N1MM Logger sets the wrong sideband when changing
 bands 
    because it sets mode before changing
 frequencies 
 2) N1MM logger drops out of run when operating split and
 
    tuning VFO A (receive VFO) 
 3) the UP/DN keys for moving RIT operate in a fixed 20 Hz 
    or 100 Hz step instead of the values set
 in the N1MM 
    configuration. 
 4) N1MM Logger does not follow the split/sub status set on
 
    the transceiver front panel (even though
 support is 
    present in the K3 CAT protocol to
 determine sub/split 
    status).  
 
 73, 
 
    ... Joe, W4TV 
  
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
 On Behalf Of Barry N1EU
  Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 10:46 AM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question
  
  
  
  Bob, you're touching on a couple of areas where N1MM
 Logger's 
  control of the K3 isn't rock solid.
  
  The best you can probably do for now is to check the
 config 
  setting dual rx always on.  With that setting,
 the subrx 
  should stay on when a spot is
  grabbed.   Personally, I'd like the
 software to leave the 
  subrx alone and
  allow me to control it manually, but haven't been able
 to 
  persuade the programmers.
  
  With the current N1MM implementation, you must use the
 
  program to set and reset split mode via alt-f7. 
 Otherwise, 
  it doesn't know of any changes to split status. 
 This is 
  another area that needs programming attention.
  
  Hopefully, N1MM Logger will improve in these two areas
 of K3 
  control in the near future.
  
  73,
  Barry N1EU
  
  
  
  bob finger wrote:
   
   Unfortunately with N1MM if I click on a simplex
 spot both split
   and sub receiver are turned off.  Anyone
 know how I can 
  defeat this so 
   radio stays in split mode?  
   
  
  -- 
  View this message in context: 
  http://n2.nabble.com/k3-and-N1MM-question-tp4255584p4255791.html
  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
 Nabble.com.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread Brian Moran
OOps, missed this one. Sorry.

--- On Tue, 1/5/10, Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 From: Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question
 To: bob finger fin...@goeaston.net
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 8:26 AM
 In N1MM on entry window, click config
 in menu bar.  About half way down,
 click on Dual RX always on.
 
 On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 10:06 AM, bob finger fin...@goeaston.net
 wrote:
 
  I'm a brand new K3 user. Had it since yesterday and
 already love it.
  I want to use the radio in split with both receivers
 linked all the
  time.  Unfortunately with N1MM if I click on a
 simplex spot both split
  and sub receiver are turned off.  Anyone know how
 I can defeat this so
  radio stays in split mode?  Thanks for the
 help.  73 bob de w9ge
 
  --
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 Firmware Suggestion

2010-01-05 Thread Brian Broggie
Hi, Bill!

The ability to save the Alarm state was added in rev 0.93 (rev 0.94 is 
the current rev).  You still need a pc to set it, but it will stay that 
way from then on.  The front panel Sensor button clears the Alarm 
message (flashing SWR LED's) and resets for the next high SWR condition. 
Please use the Elecraft W2 Utility program to update your W2's 
firmware and enjoy this feature.  If you are not familiar...

http://www.elecraft.com/software/W2/elecraft_w2_software.htm

73,
Brian, W6FVI
W2 Firmware Engineer
Elecraft, Inc.


Bill Miner wrote:
 With all the recent discussion about the W2 I decided to actually read the 
 on-line manual and check the specs for my self.
  
 Upon further reading I discovered that to set the SWR alarm feature it is 
 necessary to have a PC connected and to set the alarm each time the unit is 
 powered up.
  
 If possible, it would be nice to be able to turn on the alarm feature from 
 the front panel of the W2 and once set,  have the alarm enable in memory so 
 that it was not necessary to do this every time the unit is power cycled..
  
 OBTW I am very pleased with the current firmware load for the K3.  
  
 Thanks  73,
 Bill - K6WLM
 K3
 K2
 KX1


   
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Ken Chandler
I think someone has shifted a decimal point me thinks, I've   heard of  
profit mark-up, but this during a resession beats the lotHi

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone




On 5 Jan 2010, at 15:38, Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com wrote:

 WOW ! according that pdf document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf 
 ) If we add all the modules and filters price for a fully loaded  
 K3,it will cost in japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand  
 two hundred)yens,can anyone say how many USD is that amount,sounds  
 like a lot

 AD4C


 For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

 --- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


 From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


 From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
 Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

 WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be then  
 over 5 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

 You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at
 http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

 Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not  
 render properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

 Regards,
 Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-05 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Wes,

Do share your 30A smart charger. It's easy enough to find information for
lower current chargers, but less so for something in this range.

cheers,
Julius


Wes Stewart wrote:
 
 Steve, 
 
 Congratulations and welcome.
 
 I can't recommend a manufactured antenna since I make all of my own, which
 I encourage you to do eventually.  I do understand your desire to get on
 quickly, though and I suspect you will get a lot of recommendations, some
 better than others.
 
 As to the battery, I use a Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) 92 AH battery made by
 East Penn Manufacturing and sold under their Deka brand.
 (http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf) I have it on
 continuous charge via a home-built 30A smart charger.
 
 The charger to battery circuit (both wires) is fused at 30A and the radio
 circuit is fused at 25A.  In addition I use a battery boost regulator
 made by TGE (http://stores.tgelectronics.org/Detail.bok?no=11) to provide
 a constant 14.1V at the radio regardless of battery state, and the
 inevitable voltage drop in the wiring.
 
 I can tell you that at the 100W level, without the charger running and the
 booster off, it doesn't take long before the K3 is beeping and warning
 about low battery voltage.
 
 This system was put together for RV/Field Day use, but I also use it in
 the fixed location when the RV is in storage, even though I have an Astron
 RM-35 sitting right next to the charger.
 
 Wes  N7WS
 
 --- On Mon, 1/4/10, KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com wrote:
 
 From: KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
 Subject: [Elecraft]  New K3 User and New Ham
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 6:19 PM
 
 
 Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an
 auto-tuner.
 Several basic questions:
 
 1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire
 antenna
 pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree? 
 
 2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer
 support
 from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at
 100W.
 What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size
 fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery?
 
 I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I
 don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of
 a
 help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please
 advise.
 
 73,
 
 KC2VNI.
 
 
 
 
 
   
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-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
-- 
View this message in context: 
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Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread Jim Brown
On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 11:32:45 -0500, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

There are several other issues with N1MM Logger and the K3. 

Yes. While I like the N1MM logger, use it, and recommend it to 
others, it has it's problems, and those who write the software 
don't like to be told about them. I learned that the hard way -- 
when I did, they took me off their email list. :) 

My primary issues are 1) If the exchange you enter isn't what 
N1MM is programmed to accept, it won't log the QSO, BUT IT WON'T 
TELL YOU! I worked KP2D, but because the country file was old 
it didn't believe KP2D was a good call, so it refused to save it. 
Why wasn't the country file good? Because N1MM had crashed 
halfway throught the contest, and I hadn't reloaded the current 
one. So I made this QSO, but it's not in my log. I lose the Q, 
and the other guy gets penalized for two QSOs!  I asked for a 
switch setting to ALWAYS SAVE a Q, no matter what, and let me fix 
it later. They refused to do that. Why? They don't want N1MM to 
save a bad QSO. 

2) You're running and start to respond to a station who calls you 
but hear him repeat his call, so you stop sending (ESC). You're 
using their Enter Sends Message mode, so ENTER should send 
your exchange. But because you hit escape, it now asks the other 
station for a fill rather than sending your exchange. Makes you 
look stupid and slows everything down, in a very common 
situation. 

In comparison to these issues, control issues with the K3 are 
minor. :)  

73,

Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-05 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Welcome Steve!

I think you'll find if you can build a K3, a simple antenna will be a piece
of cake to construct, not to mention a lot less expensive. The biggest
problem you will have is making a choice. A dipole is a good place to start,
vertical or the traditional horizontal configuration. There are plenty of
places online to find dimensions, or calculate them. Verticals are popular
to, but require decent radials to work well. A half Square is another
option. It would be easier if you provide a bit more detail about the
tree(s) and what your intended area of interest might be (DXing, Ragchewing,
contesting, etc.)

Here is one place to start: http://www.dxzone.com

On batteries, this paper is worth reading to learn more about specific
batteries and their properties:
http://www.norcalqrp.org/files/Batteries_and_Charging_Systems_KK6MC_whitepaper.pdf

An option is to look for a place that supplies batteries for UPS systems to
the telecommunication industry. We have one that sells to the public and
often you can buy batteries that are perfectly acceptable for ham radio,
that are no longer usable for cell systems. Some are used, or exceed the
industry's shelf life requirements. I recently purchased new 150AH deep
cycle batteries for under $100. They work fine. Yellow Tops are another
car/boat variety that are popular in some ham circles, they're pricey new.

You'll most likely want to consider buying or building a current balun for
you feed line. What type will be dictated by the antenna. Make sure you
ground your station correctly and don't leave the rig connected to your
antenna when not in use. Trust me, it will save you a lot of headaches ;o)

You can do an awful lot with QRP too. It will be a lot easier on you
battery...

Cheers,
Julius



KC2VNI wrote:
 
 Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an
 auto-tuner. Several basic questions:
 
 1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire
 antenna pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a
 tree? 
 
 2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer
 support from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate
 at 100W. What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable?
 What size fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the
 battery?
 
 I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I
 don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of
 a help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please
 advise.
 
 73,
 
 KC2VNI.
 
 


-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Jim Brown
On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:20:07 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote:

Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, 
I 
have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC 
boards.

While I appalud your willingness to share, there is another good 
solution. What we really need is a stereo to mono breakout cable 
that has a 3-circuit male plug wired for stereo, split to two mono 
jacks. Here's the problem -- Radio Schlock, Worst Buy, and their 
ilk pushed the real connector mfrs out of the market with cheaply 
made connectors and adapter cables, but they don't sell the cable 
we need. 

The GOOD connectors are made by Switchcraft and Neutrik. In North 
America, we can buy these parts from vendors like Newark, Allied, 
Digikey, etc. The catch is that they cost more than a buck, and 
hams can be cheap, so they think they're too expensive. They're 
not -- they are of much higher quality, don't have the melting 
insulation and lousy contact material problems of the cheap 
connectors, and are far more robust mechanically. 

The solution is simple. Simply belly up to the bar and place an 
order with one of these real electronics vendors for real 
connectors and build your own adapters. 

Now a brickbat to Elecraft. Speakers are individual products, they 
don't come wired with 3-circuit plugs, and as noted above, it's 
not easy to buy parts to build adapters. What Elecraft SHOULD have 
done is provide TWO output jacks, not one. They played cheap (or 
dumb, to the extent that they were ignorant of the marketplace). 
Now to fix it? Rebuilding the I/O panel is costly. A better fix 
for their design error is to provide the unique breakout cable 
that is required.  

It has long been good practice when selling quality electronics 
products to ship unique connectors and or cable assemblies with 
the product, especially when they are not commonly available in 
the marketplace. This breakout cable is exactly such a unique 
part.  

73,

Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought

2010-01-05 Thread Edward Dickinson, III
From Julius Fazekas N2WN...

...I would go for a remote ATU from Elecraft too (nudge nudge wink wink)...

I've fond of remote matching units and use them routinely.  Perhaps Elecraft
can consider aquiring a small startup tuner manufacturer.  Would that be
helpful in getting into remote matching?


73,
Dick - KA5KKT 

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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Keith Hamilton
Sounds good to me!  What is the supplier and part number so I can order!

73  Keith W8GX



On Jan 5, 2010, at 12:53 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

 On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:20:07 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote:
 
 Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, 
 I 
 have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC 
 boards.
 
 While I appalud your willingness to share, there is another good 
 solution. What we really need is a stereo to mono breakout cable 
 that has a 3-circuit male plug wired for stereo, split to two mono 
 jacks. Here's the problem -- Radio Schlock, Worst Buy, and their 
 ilk pushed the real connector mfrs out of the market with cheaply 
 made connectors and adapter cables, but they don't sell the cable 
 we need. 
 
 The GOOD connectors are made by Switchcraft and Neutrik. In North 
 America, we can buy these parts from vendors like Newark, Allied, 
 Digikey, etc. The catch is that they cost more than a buck, and 
 hams can be cheap, so they think they're too expensive. They're 
 not -- they are of much higher quality, don't have the melting 
 insulation and lousy contact material problems of the cheap 
 connectors, and are far more robust mechanically. 
 
 The solution is simple. Simply belly up to the bar and place an 
 order with one of these real electronics vendors for real 
 connectors and build your own adapters. 
 
 Now a brickbat to Elecraft. Speakers are individual products, they 
 don't come wired with 3-circuit plugs, and as noted above, it's 
 not easy to buy parts to build adapters. What Elecraft SHOULD have 
 done is provide TWO output jacks, not one. They played cheap (or 
 dumb, to the extent that they were ignorant of the marketplace). 
 Now to fix it? Rebuilding the I/O panel is costly. A better fix 
 for their design error is to provide the unique breakout cable 
 that is required.  
 
 It has long been good practice when selling quality electronics 
 products to ship unique connectors and or cable assemblies with 
 the product, especially when they are not commonly available in 
 the marketplace. This breakout cable is exactly such a unique 
 part.  
 
 73,
 
 Jim K9YC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought

2010-01-05 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Ed,

Me too! I even wrote Wayne directly almost begging Elecraft to interface
their current technology with simple remoting system. It would be nice to
have options including one requiring no more that power line and RF with
included interface for the W2.  I would want this in a high power version as
well.  No one that I am aware other than MFJ has units that work remotely,
but I like the Elecraft designs best and it would be greater to have
available in kit form too.  


73,

Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward Dickinson, III
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 12:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought

From Julius Fazekas N2WN...

...I would go for a remote ATU from Elecraft too (nudge nudge wink wink)...

I've fond of remote matching units and use them routinely.  Perhaps Elecraft
can consider aquiring a small startup tuner manufacturer.  Would that be
helpful in getting into remote matching?


73,
Dick - KA5KKT 

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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Bruce Beford
Jim Brown wrote:

 Now a brickbat to Elecraft. Speakers are individual products, they 
 don't come wired with 3-circuit plugs, and as noted above, it's 
 not easy to buy parts to build adapters. What Elecraft SHOULD have 
 done is provide TWO output jacks, not one. They played cheap (or 
 dumb, to the extent that they were ignorant of the marketplace). 
 Now to fix it? Rebuilding the I/O panel is costly. A better fix 
 for their design error is to provide the unique breakout cable 
 that is required.  

I disagree. Many non-amplified computer speaker pairs are available with a
stereo 1/8 phone plug. The ubiquity of this jack as the output on PCs has
made this connector a de-facto standard.

I do not feel this is a weakness in the design. If one can't find an
acceptable (to him/her) pair of speakers with this plug, Then just get the
Y adapter at the Shack, cut the ends off and rewire as needed.

Most Amateurs know which end of the soldering iron to hold, right?

This whole thread has outlived it's usefulness, IMO.

Bruce N1RX




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-05 Thread KC2VNI


Thanks for the many fine comments. I only have the 1 tall tree. It is
approximately 25-30 feet high. It is dead so there is no way I am going to
harm it (accordingly, this is not a concern).

Here's the take-away I got from reading your many fine suggestions thus
far:
- Make sure you do some research on the type of antenna you want to get. (I
am an electrical engineer by background but RF engineering and antennas is
NOT my strong suit.)

- Make sure you get some height to your antenna. I purchased the Buddi Pole
system BUT I understand that any form of antenna like this is NOT going to
give you good performance. 

- It is probably a good idea to use some of the local hams here to get some
help with the antenna system as they can help out with picking this. 

- Battery power may or may not be appropriate for continuous operations of
the equipment.

- I am not so concerned about getting a Ferrari for a radio as my 1st one
(in lieu of something closer to a Chevy) as I believe that the manual is
fairly well laid out. The big concern here is context. Example: it's nice to
know HOW to perform an alignment of the radio BUT the question for the
beginner is What does alignment actually do?.




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[Elecraft] K3 Utility Version 1.2.12.28 available on Elecraft web site

2010-01-05 Thread Dick Dievendorff
The Windows K3 Utility has been updated to correct a bug in the K3 date
setting routine.

 

Several K3 command macro samples have been added to the Help text.

 

Automated Tx Gain calibration (using the K3 Utility's Calibrate Transmitter
Gain button) now writes a file containing a TXGN value for each of the
calibration frequencies at each of the calibration power levels.

 

The resulting file can be viewed with a new Display Tx Gain Summary button
on the Calibration tab page. 

 

The values in this file may be useful for problem diagnosis with K3
technical support. 

There's no reason to run TX Gain calibration again just to write this file
unless requested by K3 technical support.

 

A hyperlink to the K3 Utility setup file is located near the bottom of the
Elecraft K3 software web page, http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_software.htm

 

Dick, K6KR



 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-05 Thread Phil Hystad
Steve,

Your tree may be an opportunity for putting up a horizontal or sloped delta 
loop antenna.  The lowest operating frequency would depend primarily on the 
total length of wire you put up.  A total length for a loop antenna should be 
close to the wavelength of your lowest frequency of operation but with a good 
tuner there is a lot of room to play.

A friend of mine has a sloped delta loop with one corner high up in a palm tree 
(about 75 feet up) and the other two corners are at roof top level stretching 
the 50 feet across the length of his house.  I think he has about 280 feet of 
wire so you can see that it would be a narrow delta loop (similar in fact to 
one that I have).  But, his performance over the years from 80 meters on up to 
10 meters has been good.

I also have a delta loop with one corner up a fir tree about 70 feet and the 
other two corners in two other fir trees about 55 feet apart from each other 
and each up to about 50 feet height.  I couple that using a Palstar BT1500A 
balanced line antenna tuner -- I feed the antenna using 450 ohm window style 
ladder line.  It is my best antenna.  I also have a Traffie 5-bander Hex Beam 
which is also a very good antenna.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jan 5, 2010, at 10:27 AM, KC2VNI wrote:

 
 
 Thanks for the many fine comments. I only have the 1 tall tree. It is
 approximately 25-30 feet high. It is dead so there is no way I am going to
 harm it (accordingly, this is not a concern).
 
 Here's the take-away I got from reading your many fine suggestions thus
 far:
 - Make sure you do some research on the type of antenna you want to get. (I
 am an electrical engineer by background but RF engineering and antennas is
 NOT my strong suit.)
 
 - Make sure you get some height to your antenna. I purchased the Buddi Pole
 system BUT I understand that any form of antenna like this is NOT going to
 give you good performance. 
 
 - It is probably a good idea to use some of the local hams here to get some
 help with the antenna system as they can help out with picking this. 
 
 - Battery power may or may not be appropriate for continuous operations of
 the equipment.
 
 - I am not so concerned about getting a Ferrari for a radio as my 1st one
 (in lieu of something closer to a Chevy) as I believe that the manual is
 fairly well laid out. The big concern here is context. Example: it's nice to
 know HOW to perform an alignment of the radio BUT the question for the
 beginner is What does alignment actually do?.
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4256584.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] [K1] RE: K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-05 Thread Marc PE1FJN

Hello Rick,

 

I'm glad I could help.

It seems you are very close to closing the box, and making 1st CW QSO with
the K1. If you have the antenna connected and the band is open, we can try
to set a sked, so I can contact Long Beach(just checked QRZ.com).

 

My lot is small as well, and my main antenna is a WIMO GP with radials for
15m/20m, and now it is cold I have installed in-house below the roof an
inverted V, loaded with coals to make it fit below the roof.

 

Anyway, good luck with the K1, I made so far in~3 months 50 CW QSO's,
worked many new countries, it's really fun, and so nice quit to listen
through the 200Hz filter. The nicest contact so far was VK4.

 

Good DX,

73

Marc

 

 

 

Van: Rick/WA6ES [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+4253616-2118861...@n2.nabble.com] 
Verzonden: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 6:02 AM
Aan: Marc PE1FJN
Onderwerp: Re: K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

 

Marc 
  Well I worked on the winding spacing and got it up to a little over 4
watts, actually 4.4, so that did help. I sent off an email to Elecraft
yesterday when I posted this and no answer yet, maybe I will call them and
talk to Scott there. I have to get a couple of speaker slides, heck those
things are small! I even played with the 40m section and got another watt
out there also! 
Can I live with 4.4 watts on 20,maybe, but if I get more pwr out, even
better. 

Thanks again for the info 
Rick/WA6ES 

Marc PE1FJN wrote:

Hello Rick, 

HNY2010. 

When I had output power problems at 15m, not at 20m, I increased the output
power by 'tuning' the low pass output filter (L9/L10, L11/L12), suggested by
ELECRAFT. By bringing windings together I was able to get the required
output.  It does not look as nice when having the windings evenly spread,
but in the end the output power is more important. 
Make sure you have a dummy load when checking Pout, as when VSWR is poor,
depending of the COAX length you will see high or low max output power on
display K1. Reason: K1 is measuring Vpeak out, and calculates it back to
power. So reading on display is only reliable when you have 50ohm, or have
installed the internal antenna tuner. 

Also make sure you have 13.8V, Pout max between 12V and 13.8V makes a
difference. I run it at 12V, Power is 5W at 15m/20m band, while running at
13.8V I can easily get up to 7Watt. For me 12V is fine. 

If tuning of the coils does not work, contact elecraft support, and refer to
power problems from PE1FJN October this year at 15m SN: 2761. I changed 1
resistor on instructions from ELECRAFT. At this moment I have now no access
to this mail(sorry), but I'm sure you will be able to get the same
instructions. Having changed this resistor power was very fine, and not
marginal anymore. 

Hope this helps, 

73 
PE1FJN 
Marc 
K1 SN:2761 

PS: Good Luck, at 20m DX is really nice with this RIG. 

 

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To unsubscribe from Re: K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power,
click
 (link removed) 
vbWUubmx8NDI1MTY0OXwyOTg2MTMxODQ=  here. 

 


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[Elecraft] Anyone receive their K144XV yet?

2010-01-05 Thread Bruce Beford
Limited shipments were scheduled to begin on 12/24, and more last week. Have
any been received and installed?
-Bruce N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Hector Padron
WOW !! You are telling me that a ham in japan who will like to purchase a fully 
loaded K3 will have to pay almost twenty two grands? Unbelivable,with that 
amount I can buy me two IC-7800,poor guys,that is not good for them at all.
It will be better for them to order it directly from Elecraft and pay all the 
transportation expenses I guess.
 
AD4C
 


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Tue, 1/5/10, Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com wrote:


From: Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 3:48 PM


Hector:

According to several currency calculators:

   2,014,200 JPY = $21,983.0832 USD

Whew.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 09:38 01/05/2010, you wrote:
WOW ! according that pdf 
document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf) If we add all the 
modules and filters price for a fully loaded K3,it will cost in 
japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand two hundred)yens,can 
anyone say how many USD is that amount,sounds like a lot

AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

  WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be 
 then over 5 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not 
render properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-05 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rick,

Certainly - to measure any LPF, here is how to do it, along with the K1 
band board pin information:
In general, you just isolate the LPF, terminate one side and scan the 
other side with the antenna analyzer.  Conceptually it is easy.
What gets complicated is how to isolate the LPF - it differs from one 
radio to another.  For the K1, you must remove the band board AFTER 
setting the band to the one to be scanned - fortunately there are 
latching relays.
After the band board is removed, connect a 51 ohm resistor between pins 
2 and 3 of P3 - then devise a means of connecting the antenna analyzer 
to pin 9 (or 10) of J2 and ground.

Making those connections will depend on what one has in the shack - 
certainly the resistor could be soldered to the solder side of  P3 and a 
short piece of coax (inches long) can be soldered onto the solder side 
of J2, but there are other means if one has some header material lying 
around to make up a temporary fixture that can simply be plugged to the 
board.

Having made the connections, then the analyzer is scanned over the band 
of interest observing the SWR - it should be low, and should climb as 
the frequency is increased above the band, and should be quite high at 
the 2nd harmonic of the lower band edge.

For the KAT1, it includes a wattmeter, but that must be calibrated to 
read the correct power - the K1 uses the wattmeter output to control the 
actual output power, so it is natural that the K1 LCD bargraph agrees 
with the OUT setting.  You can calibrate the wattmeter simply by making 
it match whatever external wattmeter you have, or use something more 
accurate, like the detector on the Elecraft DL1.  Be aware that there is 
a lot of discrepancy in wattmeter readings, and I don't trust many of 
them until they have proven their accuracy.  I do have several tools 
that can be used for that task, but my most basic 'instrument' is a 
known good 50 ohm dummy load that is flat over the frequency range to be 
used.  I read the RF voltage across the dummy load with my oscilloscope 
and a 10X probe, then compute the power - it is quick and easy because 
the 'scope reads peak to peak RF voltage and the formula for power 
reduces to V^2/8*R or V^2/400 for a 50 ohm load - easy and quick to 
punch the numbers in on a calculator.
I have posted that formula derivation on the reflector before, so now if 
anyone wants to check it, you can derive your own or check the archives 
- Hint: use the exact expression sqrt2/2 when reducing the formula for 
RMS conversion, if you try it with 0.707 you will go nuts (the sqrt2 
terms drop out when the formula is reduced).


73,
Don W3FPR

Rick/WA6ES wrote:
 Byron
   I am using the meter on the K1. I also have an MFJ Tuner/meter combo for
 QRP that is not that accurate. I will be purchasing a new meter soon. Not
 sure about the KAT1 issue, that is my next purchase along with the Battery
 pack. Maybe Don/W3FPR could help answer this.

 Don
   Yes please tell me how to read the cut off Freq. I have the MFJ type.

 Thanks
 Rick/WA6ES


 Byron Servies-2 wrote:
   
 On Jan 4, 2010, at 9:02 PM, Rick/WA6ES wrote:

 How are you measuring the power output?

 With my new K1 using a DL1 and KAT1 I get exactly the number of bars on
 the TX LCD bar graph as I set in the output menu for power output using a
 13.8 vold power supply, from 2 to 7.  This is true for all 4 bands, with
 the only difference being if I don't tune it takes a few CQ's for the KAT1
 to catch up, as expected.

 Just curious what I might be missing,

 Byron KI6NUL
 

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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Greg - AB7R
I have a few of these cables that I stash away from other electronics.  Its a 
stereo 1/8 plug that 
breaks out to two RCA male plugs.  You get these alot when you buy TVs, VCRs, 
CD players and the 
such.  At the time I don't need them so I just toss them into a box for future 
use.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Tue Jan  5  9:53 , Jim Brown  sent:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:20:07 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote:

Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, 
I 
have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC 
boards.

While I appalud your willingness to share, there is another good 
solution. What we really need is a stereo to mono breakout cable 
that has a 3-circuit male plug wired for stereo, split to two mono 
jacks. Here's the problem -- Radio Schlock, Worst Buy, and their 
ilk pushed the real connector mfrs out of the market with cheaply 
made connectors and adapter cables, but they don't sell the cable 
we need. 

The GOOD connectors are made by Switchcraft and Neutrik. In North 
America, we can buy these parts from vendors like Newark, Allied, 
Digikey, etc. The catch is that they cost more than a buck, and 
hams can be cheap, so they think they're too expensive. They're 
not -- they are of much higher quality, don't have the melting 
insulation and lousy contact material problems of the cheap 
connectors, and are far more robust mechanically. 

The solution is simple. Simply belly up to the bar and place an 
order with one of these real electronics vendors for real 
connectors and build your own adapters. 

Now a brickbat to Elecraft. Speakers are individual products, they 
don't come wired with 3-circuit plugs, and as noted above, it's 
not easy to buy parts to build adapters. What Elecraft SHOULD have 
done is provide TWO output jacks, not one. They played cheap (or 
dumb, to the extent that they were ignorant of the marketplace). 
Now to fix it? Rebuilding the I/O panel is costly. A better fix 
for their design error is to provide the unique breakout cable 
that is required.  

It has long been good practice when selling quality electronics 
products to ship unique connectors and or cable assemblies with 
the product, especially when they are not commonly available in 
the marketplace. This breakout cable is exactly such a unique 
part.  

73,

Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Greg - AB7R
I am sure I can scrounge up at least a few of these cables. 1/8 stereo male 
to two RCA 
Males.  Cables are about 3ft long.  If you are interested you can send me $3 to 
cover the 
cost of a small padded envelope and shipping and I'll send what I have.  I'll 
make a list of 
responses and then dig out what I can find.  Don't send me anything till I 
confirm with each 
person.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Tue Jan  5 10:02 , Keith Hamilton  sent:

Sounds good to me!  What is the supplier and part number so I can order!

73  Keith W8GX



On Jan 5, 2010, at 12:53 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

 On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:20:07 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote:
 
 Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, 
 I 
 have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC 
 boards.
 
 While I appalud your willingness to share, there is another good 
 solution. What we really need is a stereo to mono breakout cable 
 that has a 3-circuit male plug wired for stereo, split to two mono 
 jacks. Here's the problem -- Radio Schlock, Worst Buy, and their 
 ilk pushed the real connector mfrs out of the market with cheaply 
 made connectors and adapter cables, but they don't sell the cable 
 we need. 
 
 The GOOD connectors are made by Switchcraft and Neutrik. In North 
 America, we can buy these parts from vendors like Newark, Allied, 
 Digikey, etc. The catch is that they cost more than a buck, and 
 hams can be cheap, so they think they're too expensive. They're 
 not -- they are of much higher quality, don't have the melting 
 insulation and lousy contact material problems of the cheap 
 connectors, and are far more robust mechanically. 
 
 The solution is simple. Simply belly up to the bar and place an 
 order with one of these real electronics vendors for real 
 connectors and build your own adapters. 
 
 Now a brickbat to Elecraft. Speakers are individual products, they 
 don't come wired with 3-circuit plugs, and as noted above, it's 
 not easy to buy parts to build adapters. What Elecraft SHOULD have 
 done is provide TWO output jacks, not one. They played cheap (or 
 dumb, to the extent that they were ignorant of the marketplace). 
 Now to fix it? Rebuilding the I/O panel is costly. A better fix 
 for their design error is to provide the unique breakout cable 
 that is required.  
 
 It has long been good practice when selling quality electronics 
 products to ship unique connectors and or cable assemblies with 
 the product, especially when they are not commonly available in 
 the marketplace. This breakout cable is exactly such a unique 
 part.  
 
 73,
 
 Jim K9YC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought

2010-01-05 Thread Edward Dickinson, III
Bill - Thanks for chiming in.  As I recall the two amplifiers that Elecraft
has worked on were 800 and 1500 Watts.  Maybe an 800 Watt unit would be a
good place to start on the high end.

73,
Dick - KA5KKT


--
Ed,

Me too! I even wrote Wayne directly almost begging Elecraft to interface
their current technology with simple remoting system. It would be nice to
have options including one requiring no more that power line and RF with
included interface for the W2.  I would want this in a high power version as
well.  No one that I am aware other than MFJ has units that work remotely,
but I like the Elecraft designs best and it would be greater to have
available in kit form too.  


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
--

From Julius Fazekas N2WN...

...I would go for a remote ATU from Elecraft too (nudge nudge wink wink)...

I've fond of remote matching units and use them routinely.  Perhaps Elecraft
can consider aquiring a small startup tuner manufacturer.  Would that be
helpful in getting into remote matching?


73,
Dick - KA5KKT 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility Version 1.2.12.28 available on Elecraft web site

2010-01-05 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Dick,

Looks like you win the first update of the year award!!!


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2  KX1 (FIeld tester); K3; W2; mini mods 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick Dievendorff
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 12:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; elecraft...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Utility Version 1.2.12.28 available on Elecraft web
site

The Windows K3 Utility has been updated to correct a bug in the K3 date
setting routine.

 

Several K3 command macro samples have been added to the Help text.

 

Automated Tx Gain calibration (using the K3 Utility's Calibrate Transmitter
Gain button) now writes a file containing a TXGN value for each of the
calibration frequencies at each of the calibration power levels.

 

The resulting file can be viewed with a new Display Tx Gain Summary button
on the Calibration tab page. 

 

The values in this file may be useful for problem diagnosis with K3
technical support. 

There's no reason to run TX Gain calibration again just to write this file
unless requested by K3 technical support.

 

A hyperlink to the K3 Utility setup file is located near the bottom of the
Elecraft K3 software web page, http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_software.htm

 

Dick, K6KR



 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-05 Thread Steve Ellington
Steve
I got my license at age 15. I read in the ARRL Handbook how to make a 40 
meter dipole. I got mom to take me to an electrical store where I bought 
some wire and RG58 coax. I threw ropes over tree limbs and put up this 
dipole, connected it to my $50 rig and was on the air before the license 
even came. Believe me, I did not have a background in RF engineering and 
antennas nor did I have any money. Hey...I'm not trying to put you down or 
anything but surely this isn't asking too much is it?

I must admitI did visit a local ham and looked at his 20 meter dipole to 
see how he built it. I think this would be your best bet. You will get too 
many suggestions here. Just go see what others are doing and copy it. If I 
lived near you I would be glad to rush over and help you turn your dead tree 
into an antenna support.

You have the best rig money can buy. Do some self study and by all means 
learn how to make a wire antenna if nothing else.

PS: Don't let any dead limbs fall on your head. Gravity has side effects.

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com


- Original Message - 
From: KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham




 Thanks for the many fine comments. I only have the 1 tall tree. It is
 approximately 25-30 feet high. It is dead so there is no way I am going to
 harm it (accordingly, this is not a concern).

 Here's the take-away I got from reading your many fine suggestions thus
 far:
 - Make sure you do some research on the type of antenna you want to get. 
 (I
 am an electrical engineer by background but RF engineering and antennas is
 NOT my strong suit.)

 - Make sure you get some height to your antenna. I purchased the Buddi 
 Pole
 system BUT I understand that any form of antenna like this is NOT going to
 give you good performance.

 - It is probably a good idea to use some of the local hams here to get 
 some
 help with the antenna system as they can help out with picking this.

 - Battery power may or may not be appropriate for continuous operations of
 the equipment.

 - I am not so concerned about getting a Ferrari for a radio as my 1st 
 one
 (in lieu of something closer to a Chevy) as I believe that the manual is
 fairly well laid out. The big concern here is context. Example: it's nice 
 to
 know HOW to perform an alignment of the radio BUT the question for the
 beginner is What does alignment actually do?.




 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4256584.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.126/2601 - Release Date: 01/05/10 
02:35:00

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[Elecraft] K3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread Ralph Parker
2) You're running and start to respond to a station who calls you
but hear him repeat his call, so you stop sending (ESC). You're
using their Enter Sends Message mode, so ENTER should send
your exchange. But because you hit escape, it now asks the other
station for a fill rather than sending your exchange. Makes you
look stupid and slows everything down, in a very common situation.

Been there, done that, looked stupid.
Consequently, a new Q signal to be used while I'm madly correcting the errors:

QFC - I have a computer problem, please standby

VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Smart Charger

2010-01-05 Thread Wes Stewart
Julius, et. al,

My charger is actually a marriage of some commercial gear with a few tweaks.  
The motivation for this was the absolutely horrible RFI from the switch-mode 
charger in my 5th wheel trailer.  It was so bad that when I had the trailer 
stored here at home the RFI would actually interfere with OTA TV, so you can 
imagine what it did to the ham bands.

Rather than reinventing the wheel, I used an Astron RS-35M for its case, 
metering, raw DC, heat sink and pass transistors.   Rather than building my own 
board, I married this to an AA Engineering smart charger board, 
(http://www.a-aengineering.com/150PCAAppNotes.pdf) doing a little trickery to 
allow the use of a fixed current sense resistor while still having some 
adjustment of the max charge current.

The heart of this circuit is the UC3906 integrated circuit that is designed for 
just this purpose. (http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/uc3906.html)

I shopped the idea of an article about this to ARRL but they weren't 
interested, so I never completed any further documentation.

Wes  N7WS



--- On Tue, 1/5/10, Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]  New K3 User and New Ham
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 10:17 AM


Wes,

Do share your 30A smart charger. It's easy enough to find information for
lower current chargers, but less so for something in this range.

cheers,
Julius


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and N1MM question

2010-01-05 Thread Richard Ferch
 2) You're running and start to respond to a station who calls you
 but hear him repeat his call, so you stop sending (ESC). You're
 using their Enter Sends Message mode, so ENTER should send
 your exchange. But because you hit escape, it now asks the other
 station for a fill rather than sending your exchange. Makes you
 look stupid and slows everything down, in a very common situation.

Yes, ESM is not perfect. You have to keep an eye on the screen to see 
what it is going to do next, because every now and then the focus is in 
the wrong place, causing ESM to be in the wrong state and do the wrong 
thing. Usually when the focus is in the wrong place a bash on the space 
bar will put it back where you wanted it.

The other option is not to rely too heavily on the Enter key. Even with 
ESM on, you can use the function keys, Ins, ' and ; keys, and you can 
log without sending anything with Alt+Enter (or Ctrl+Alt+Enter if the 
program won't let you log a contact because of an apparently defective 
call sign or exchange).

As with any complex software, it takes some experimenting to learn how 
to use it effectively, especially if you are coming from a different 
software package.

73,
Rich VE3KI
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese [Ended]

2010-01-05 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Hi Hector - Its nowhere near this high. Someone added incorrectly.

Again - Let's please end this thread. Anyone with questions on this, 
please feel free to email me.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ



Hector Padron wrote:
 WOW !! You are telling me that a ham in japan who will like to purchase a 
 fully loaded K3 will have to pay almost twenty two grands? 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Smart Charger

2010-01-05 Thread WILLIS COOKE
You might take a look at the Jetstream JTPS35BCMA.  It includes volt and 
ammeters, connections for the rig plus low amp connections for accessories and 
a connection point for the battery.  The switch to battery is automatic when AC 
power is lost.  The artifacts are reasonable and liveable.  On the down side, 
the fan comes on with a 1 amp load and is noiser that I would like, but 
liveable.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com
Sent: Tue, January 5, 2010 1:22:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Smart Charger

Julius, et. al,

My charger is actually a marriage of some commercial gear with a few tweaks.  
The motivation for this was the absolutely horrible RFI from the switch-mode 
charger in my 5th wheel trailer.  It was so bad that when I had the trailer 
stored here at home the RFI would actually interfere with OTA TV, so you can 
imagine what it did to the ham bands.

Rather than reinventing the wheel, I used an Astron RS-35M for its case, 
metering, raw DC, heat sink and pass transistors.   Rather than building my own 
board, I married this to an AA Engineering smart charger board, 
(http://www.a-aengineering.com/150PCAAppNotes.pdf) doing a little trickery to 
allow the use of a fixed current sense resistor while still having some 
adjustment of the max charge current.

The heart of this circuit is the UC3906 integrated circuit that is designed for 
just this purpose. (http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/uc3906.html)

I shopped the idea of an article about this to ARRL but they weren't 
interested, so I never completed any further documentation.

Wes  N7WS



--- On Tue, 1/5/10, Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]  New K3 User and New Ham
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 10:17 AM


Wes,

Do share your 30A smart charger. It's easy enough to find information for
lower current chargers, but less so for something in this range.

cheers,
Julius


      
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Smart Charger --- and, technical note library suggestion

2010-01-05 Thread Phil Hystad
Wes and others...

There is such a wealth of technical information on this reflector that I am a 
little surprised and maybe a little disappointed that the Elecraft technical 
notes section of their web site is so sparse.  I would like to see a program 
where some peer reviewed articles are papers are submitted for publication on 
the Elecraft web site.  By peer review, I mean enough review so that an article 
meets the minimum acceptable rules of Elecraft plus ensuring technical accuracy 
and fitness for the Elecraft world.

Since there are so many helpful volunteers on this reflector, it would not be 
hard to create a forum for peer review made up of a varied number of volunteer 
technical wizards.  I submit that such an article by Wes would be good fodder 
for experiment if this is a worthy workable idea.

And, there are a lot of others.  In fact, I have been following this reflector 
for about two months now and merely by mining the material contained herein you 
could create some worthy information useful to the masses.  I know there are 
other such locations on the web that provide such information but something 
useful for Elecraft would be the common denominator of fitness and purpose to 
the Elecraft product lineup.

Does this make sense, has it been raised before, or maybe there is some hidden 
corner of the Elecraft web site that I have missed entirely.

73,
phil, K7PEH


On Jan 5, 2010, at 11:22 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:

 Julius, et. al,
 
 My charger is actually a marriage of some commercial gear with a few tweaks.  
 The motivation for this was the absolutely horrible RFI from the switch-mode 
 charger in my 5th wheel trailer.  It was so bad that when I had the trailer 
 stored here at home the RFI would actually interfere with OTA TV, so you can 
 imagine what it did to the ham bands.
 
 Rather than reinventing the wheel, I used an Astron RS-35M for its case, 
 metering, raw DC, heat sink and pass transistors.   Rather than building my 
 own board, I married this to an AA Engineering smart charger board, 
 (http://www.a-aengineering.com/150PCAAppNotes.pdf) doing a little trickery to 
 allow the use of a fixed current sense resistor while still having some 
 adjustment of the max charge current.
 
 The heart of this circuit is the UC3906 integrated circuit that is designed 
 for just this purpose. 
 (http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/uc3906.html)
 
 I shopped the idea of an article about this to ARRL but they weren't 
 interested, so I never completed any further documentation.
 
 Wes  N7WS
 
 
 
 --- On Tue, 1/5/10, Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 From: Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]  New K3 User and New Ham
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 10:17 AM
 
 
 Wes,
 
 Do share your 30A smart charger. It's easy enough to find information for
 lower current chargers, but less so for something in this range.
 
 cheers,
 Julius
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Jim Brown
On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 13:02:30 -0500, Keith Hamilton wrote:

What is the supplier and part number so I can order!

The nickel 3-circuit Neutrik plug is NY231. 2-circuit is NYS226.  
The 3-circuit jack is NYS240. Add BG suffix for gold contacts, 
black handle.  

The Switchcraft cable-mount nickel-plated 2-circuit jack is #125. 
The mating 2-circuit plug is #750. 

Since you're building it yourself, you might prefer to use RCA 
plugs and jacks for your speakers. The Switchcraft cable-mount 
jack is #3503. The RF version of their male RCA is a #3507. The 
audio version is a #3502. With an A suffix, it's nickel. AAU 
suffix is nickel handle, gold contacts. ABAU suffix is black 
handle, gold contacts. The Neutrik cable-mount nickel-plated RCA 
jack is NYS372P. The Neutrik male RCA plug is NYS352.  

Neutrik is a first class connector mfr based in Lichtenstein. I 
know their management and have been to their factory. Their EMC 
XLR is based on my design concept, and they paid me for it. :)  
Like Switchcraft, the other major audio connector company based in 
Chicago, they're distributed worldwide. 

Here's a good pro/semi-pro audio vendor located in Madison, WI. I 
know their owners, husband and wife, good people. Many years ago, 
I had a sales job competing with them. :)  They sell both Neutrik 
and Switchcraft.   

http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/NEU/1-8-Mini-Plug-Jack-
connectors.html

http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/SWC/1-8-Mini-Plug-Jack-
connectors.html

http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/SWC/Phono-RCA-Pin-Plug.html

http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/NEU/Phono-RCA-Pin-Plug.html

BH Photo, Markertek, and Sweetwater are also good sources of 
parts like this.

73,

Jim Brown K9YC


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[Elecraft] K3 newbie

2010-01-05 Thread rfenabled
Steve wrote:

PS: Don't let any dead limbs fall on your head. Gravity has side effects.

End Snip

I would like to reiterate Steve's note.

I have on many occasions tied a heavy item onto a piece of rope, swung it 
around like a cowboy using a lassoo and then let her rip up into a tree. 
Unfortunately, the tree assumed it was under a terrorist attack and took 
defensive action by intercepting my salvo and swung into action by deflecting 
my salvo and returning fire using my missile.

The accuracy of the tree is a truly amazing event to witness, unfortunately, I 
was not attired in appropriate gear (read hard hat) so after I took extreme 
evasive action I was able to escape with only minor injuries to my hide and my 
pride.

The support from witnessing Hams (hilarious laughter) was gratifying...(:-((

So do please be careful about selecting a way to get the antenna up in the tree.

Look up vk4fd in QRZ.COM and you will see how I have avoided a recurrence of my 
past indiscretions with antennas.

73's and enjoy a great radio
Gary
VK4FD
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-05 Thread Frank MacDonell
Steve - I am new to this hobby as well. The reflector is fantastic and
you will end up getting a lot of information and still looking for
direction at the end of the day. My advice would be start with a
dipole or end fed wire as high up as you can get it. Preferably half
wave. So if you working 40 meters, get your dipole 66 feet off the
ground. End fed wires from Par Electronics are also a great way to go.
Give these a shot and continue to research. You could make a full time
job researching antennas if you wanted to. Hope this helps.
Frank


On 1/5/10, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com wrote:
 Steve
 I got my license at age 15. I read in the ARRL Handbook how to make a 40
 meter dipole. I got mom to take me to an electrical store where I bought
 some wire and RG58 coax. I threw ropes over tree limbs and put up this
 dipole, connected it to my $50 rig and was on the air before the license
 even came. Believe me, I did not have a background in RF engineering and
 antennas nor did I have any money. Hey...I'm not trying to put you down or
 anything but surely this isn't asking too much is it?

 I must admitI did visit a local ham and looked at his 20 meter dipole to
 see how he built it. I think this would be your best bet. You will get too
 many suggestions here. Just go see what others are doing and copy it. If I
 lived near you I would be glad to rush over and help you turn your dead tree
 into an antenna support.

 You have the best rig money can buy. Do some self study and by all means
 learn how to make a wire antenna if nothing else.

 PS: Don't let any dead limbs fall on your head. Gravity has side effects.

 Steve
 N4LQ
 n...@carolina.rr.com


 - Original Message -
 From: KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 1:27 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham


 
 
  Thanks for the many fine comments. I only have the 1 tall tree. It is
  approximately 25-30 feet high. It is dead so there is no way I am going to
  harm it (accordingly, this is not a concern).
 
  Here's the take-away I got from reading your many fine suggestions thus
  far:
  - Make sure you do some research on the type of antenna you want to get.
  (I
  am an electrical engineer by background but RF engineering and antennas is
  NOT my strong suit.)
 
  - Make sure you get some height to your antenna. I purchased the Buddi
  Pole
  system BUT I understand that any form of antenna like this is NOT going to
  give you good performance.
 
  - It is probably a good idea to use some of the local hams here to get
  some
  help with the antenna system as they can help out with picking this.
 
  - Battery power may or may not be appropriate for continuous operations of
  the equipment.
 
  - I am not so concerned about getting a Ferrari for a radio as my 1st
  one
  (in lieu of something closer to a Chevy) as I believe that the manual is
  fairly well laid out. The big concern here is context. Example: it's nice
  to
  know HOW to perform an alignment of the radio BUT the question for the
  beginner is What does alignment actually do?.
 
 
 
 
  --
  View this message in context:
  http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4256584.html
  Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
  __
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.126/2601 - Release Date: 01/05/10
 02:35:00

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-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Tom Hammond
Jim:

At 11:53 01/05/2010, Jim Brown wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:20:07 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote:

 Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, I
 have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC
 boards.

While I appalud your willingness to share, there is another good
solution. What we really need is a stereo to mono breakout cable
that has a 3-circuit male plug wired for stereo, split to two mono
jacks.

That's PRECISELY what my adapter is!  Of course, it's not 'just' a
a cable...

Here's the problem -- Radio Schlock, Worst Buy, and their
ilk pushed the real connector mfrs out of the market with cheaply
made connectors and adapter cables, but they don't sell the cable
we need.

Agreed.  And that's why I designed my own.

The GOOD connectors are made by Switchcraft and Neutrik. In North
America, we can buy these parts from vendors like Newark, Allied,
Digikey, etc. The catch is that they cost more than a buck, and
hams can be cheap, so they think they're too expensive. They're
not -- they are of much higher quality, don't have the melting
insulation and lousy contact material problems of the cheap
connectors, and are far more robust mechanically.

The solution is simple. Simply belly up to the bar and place an
order with one of these real electronics vendors for real
connectors and build your own adapters.

Ummm... that's my kit... at least I believe it is.  Sure looks like it.

73 pal,

Tom 

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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought/Stationmaster

2010-01-05 Thread juergen
Hi Dick

A tuner like the SGC230 from Elecraft would be a nice  product. A high power 
version would even better. To do this properly would require the use of vacuum 
components, this would make it cost prohibitive for most hams.

What we dont need is another limited range remote tuner. The Chinese are 
flooding the market with  these SGC230 knockoffs. We need something like the RF 
Harris 1kw remote tuner thats big and heavy duty. Most importantly  it must be 
lightning proof and designed properly. The RF Harris antenna tuner can tune 
anything with good efficiency, even end fed half wave wires.

I just noticed on the Microham web page that their new Stationmaster has a 
stepper motor drive unit that can drive several stepper motors. It would  be a 
easy matter to build a high performance remote antenna tuner using their 
product. The advantage using this product is  that it could be  controlled from 
any HF radio. 

I am planning on trying the new Stationmaster to remote my HF amp. My amp needs 
5 stepper motors to tune it properly. Antenna switching would also be possible 
using this new Stationmaster. 

Another application for this new Stationmaster would be a homebrew Steppir 
vertical or something like that! It looks like a good product.

John


--- On Tue, 1/5/10, Edward Dickinson, III softb...@windstream.net wrote:

 From: Edward Dickinson, III softb...@windstream.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 10:00 AM
 From Julius Fazekas N2WN...
 
 ...I would go for a remote ATU from Elecraft too (nudge
 nudge wink wink)...
 
 I've fond of remote matching units and use them
 routinely.  Perhaps Elecraft
 can consider aquiring a small startup tuner
 manufacturer.  Would that be
 helpful in getting into remote matching?
 
 
 73,
 Dick - KA5KKT 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Keith Hamilton
You stated in your pervious post that there was a breakout cable available. 
Since I would have to build it either way I will go with the N0SS circuit board.
Thanks for the links anyways.

73 Keith W8GX


On Jan 5, 2010, at 3:45 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

 On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 13:02:30 -0500, Keith Hamilton wrote:
 
 What is the supplier and part number so I can order!
 
 The nickel 3-circuit Neutrik plug is NY231. 2-circuit is NYS226.  
 The 3-circuit jack is NYS240. Add BG suffix for gold contacts, 
 black handle.  
 
 The Switchcraft cable-mount nickel-plated 2-circuit jack is #125. 
 The mating 2-circuit plug is #750. 
 
 Since you're building it yourself, you might prefer to use RCA 
 plugs and jacks for your speakers. The Switchcraft cable-mount 
 jack is #3503. The RF version of their male RCA is a #3507. The 
 audio version is a #3502. With an A suffix, it's nickel. AAU 
 suffix is nickel handle, gold contacts. ABAU suffix is black 
 handle, gold contacts. The Neutrik cable-mount nickel-plated RCA 
 jack is NYS372P. The Neutrik male RCA plug is NYS352.  
 
 Neutrik is a first class connector mfr based in Lichtenstein. I 
 know their management and have been to their factory. Their EMC 
 XLR is based on my design concept, and they paid me for it. :)  
 Like Switchcraft, the other major audio connector company based in 
 Chicago, they're distributed worldwide. 
 
 Here's a good pro/semi-pro audio vendor located in Madison, WI. I 
 know their owners, husband and wife, good people. Many years ago, 
 I had a sales job competing with them. :)  They sell both Neutrik 
 and Switchcraft.   
 
 http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/NEU/1-8-Mini-Plug-Jack-
 connectors.html
 
 http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/SWC/1-8-Mini-Plug-Jack-
 connectors.html
 
 http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/SWC/Phono-RCA-Pin-Plug.html
 
 http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/NEU/Phono-RCA-Pin-Plug.html
 
 BH Photo, Markertek, and Sweetwater are also good sources of 
 parts like this.
 
 73,
 
 Jim Brown K9YC
 
 
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[Elecraft] West Mtn Com Spkr review

2010-01-05 Thread Steve Ellington
http://www.eham.net/reviews/review/87019


Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Disgruntled JA

2010-01-05 Thread westalto


We call this free trade 



Doug 

W6JD 


- Original Message - 
From: rfenab...@gmail.com 
To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, January 4, 2010 2:48:07 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Disgruntled JA 


In VK we have a GST exemption from the US provided the goods value (including 
freight) does not exceed $1,000.00 Australian Dollars. If the item(s) exceed 
this amount, then a GST of 10 percent is applied. 

But the freight charges from the US for say an Ameritron 811H amplifier will be 
added to the sell price of around $800.00 (depending on where you shop) will 
likely end up at around $1,250.00 or thereabouts. 

Dealers in VK regularly advertise these amplifiers for $1,799 plus freight, or 
in one case $1,899.00 delivered anywhere in VK. 

Even the most liberal thinker would question the difference. Yes the seller 
will have a list of reasons ready to offer the customer who dares to ask why 
the price is so high. 

Customs clearance charges, freight cost's as all this gear comes air freight, 
GST and warranty allowance etc. Sounds good, till you need to claim on the 
warranty...(:-)) 

YMMV 

73's 
Gary 
VK4FD - Portable 
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra 
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[Elecraft] Beginning The Build of K3 Serial Number #3799

2010-01-05 Thread Phil Hystad
Well, I have spread out the basic components of the K3 kit, serial #3799 on my 
card table in my den/shack/office/man-cave.  I am posting a photo on my Mac web 
site of the layout.  The link is: http://homepage.mac.com/phystad/K3_3799.jpg.

The photo does not include the options boxes or the 100 watt PA which are still 
in the boxes on my desk.
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Re: [Elecraft] West Mtn Com Spkr review

2010-01-05 Thread KE4INM
I just got off the phone with West Mountian Radio. At this time they do not
know when or if the will have the speakers in stock. He said if they can't
get them they will be removing them from their web site.
Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
 The GOOD connectors are made by Switchcraft and Neutrik. In North
 America, we can buy these parts from vendors like Newark, Allied,
 Digikey, etc. 
 The solution is simple. Simply belly up to the bar and place an
 order with one of these real electronics vendors for real
 connectors and build your own adapters.

 Agree.

What Elecraft SHOULD havedone is provide TWO output jacks, not one.

Completely DISagree.  Panel space is at a premium, and amplified
speakers DO come with a stereo plug.  Tip-sleeve plugs are *SO* 1950s.
 Stick with your first answer.

73, Guy.
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought/Stationmaster

2010-01-05 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 I just noticed on the Microham web page that their new 
 Stationmaster has a stepper motor drive unit that can drive 
 several stepper motors. It would  be a easy matter to build a 
 high performance remote antenna tuner using their product. 
 The advantage using this product is  that it could be  
 controlled from any HF radio. 

This feature is available in Station Master Deluxe only.  

Station Master deluxe is not yet available for sale and 
the stepper motor control will be limited to stored 
position control only (e.g., it is not suitable for 
use with a bridge for automatic tuning). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of juergen
 Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 4:34 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought/Stationmaster
 
 
 Hi Dick
 
 A tuner like the SGC230 from Elecraft would be a nice  
 product. A high power version would even better. To do this 
 properly would require the use of vacuum components, this 
 would make it cost prohibitive for most hams.
 
 What we dont need is another limited range remote tuner. The 
 Chinese are flooding the market with  these SGC230 knockoffs. 
 We need something like the RF Harris 1kw remote tuner thats 
 big and heavy duty. Most importantly  it must be lightning 
 proof and designed properly. The RF Harris antenna tuner can 
 tune anything with good efficiency, even end fed half wave wires.
 
 I just noticed on the Microham web page that their new 
 Stationmaster has a stepper motor drive unit that can drive 
 several stepper motors. It would  be a easy matter to build a 
 high performance remote antenna tuner using their product. 
 The advantage using this product is  that it could be  
 controlled from any HF radio. 
 
 I am planning on trying the new Stationmaster to remote my HF 
 amp. My amp needs 5 stepper motors to tune it properly. 
 Antenna switching would also be possible using this new 
 Stationmaster. 
 
 Another application for this new Stationmaster would be a 
 homebrew Steppir vertical or something like that! It looks 
 like a good product.
 
 John
 
 
 --- On Tue, 1/5/10, Edward Dickinson, III 
 softb...@windstream.net wrote:
 
  From: Edward Dickinson, III softb...@windstream.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 10:00 AM
  From Julius Fazekas N2WN...
  
  ...I would go for a remote ATU from Elecraft too (nudge
  nudge wink wink)...
  
  I've fond of remote matching units and use them
  routinely.  Perhaps Elecraft
  can consider aquiring a small startup tuner
  manufacturer.  Would that be
  helpful in getting into remote matching?
  
  
  73,
  Dick - KA5KKT
  
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Jim Brown
On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 17:25:47 -0500, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

Completely DISagree.  Panel space is at a premium, and amplified
speakers DO come with a stereo plug.  Tip-sleeve plugs are *SO* 1950s.
 Stick with your first answer.

Sure, panel space is at a premium. That's why the choice was made. But 
it's a bad choice, for the reasons stated. The vast majority of AMPLIFIED 
loudspeakers have severe RFI problems. The appearance of specialized 
products like the West Mountain units are quite new, and a reaction to 
that reality. Their website says they come with a 3-circuit 1/8-inch 
JACK, so you still need a 3-circuit plug to plug patch cable. 

73,

Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Jim Brown
On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 17:25:47 -0500, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

 Tip-sleeve plugs are *SO* 1950s.

I just noticed that the West Mountain Clear Speaker comes with a 
1/8-in MONO plug. (I think they mean 2-contact). FWIW, the small 
passive cube speakers I see at hamfests all come with the same 
1/8-inch 2-circuit (MONO) plug. 

73,

Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] West Mtn Com Spkr review

2010-01-05 Thread Steve Ellington
I just got mine from HRO for $39.95 but they were shipped from CA. so I 
suspect stock is getting low.

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: KE4INM ke4...@gmail.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] West Mtn Com Spkr review


I just got off the phone with West Mountian Radio. At this time they do not
 know when or if the will have the speakers in stock. He said if they can't
 get them they will be removing them from their web site.
 Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Steve Ellington
No...They come with the typical stereo 1/8 plug. 3 contactsTip and 2 
rings.

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter


 On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 17:25:47 -0500, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

 Tip-sleeve plugs are *SO* 1950s.

 I just noticed that the West Mountain Clear Speaker comes with a
 1/8-in MONO plug. (I think they mean 2-contact). FWIW, the small
 passive cube speakers I see at hamfests all come with the same
 1/8-inch 2-circuit (MONO) plug.

 73,

 Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Keith Hamilton
I am very sorry that I misread your post Jim. i will be looking forward to 
building 
my own breakout cable/box using the N0SS circuit board and parts. There is 
nothing like building your own! 

73 Keith W8GX


On Jan 5, 2010, at 5:47 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

 On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 17:25:47 -0500, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 
 Tip-sleeve plugs are *SO* 1950s.
 
 I just noticed that the West Mountain Clear Speaker comes with a 
 1/8-in MONO plug. (I think they mean 2-contact). FWIW, the small 
 passive cube speakers I see at hamfests all come with the same 
 1/8-inch 2-circuit (MONO) plug. 
 
 73,
 
 Jim K9YC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Paul Christensen
It's unfortunate that 1/8-inch TRS jacks have become so popular in the 
consumer audio world.  Their use seems to have accelerated with the advent 
of PC sound cards.

My experience has been that pro-grade 1/4-inch TRS connectors are more 
reliable than any 1/8-inch type as well as inferior-quality 1/4-inch 
connectors.  But for the fact that these connectors typically carry two 
circuits, RCA connectors are far more reliable for unbalanced audio 
connections due to their concentric grip of the inner and outer conductors. 
Darn, I actually prefer equipment with screw-down barrier strips and where 
needed, create detachable cords with Molex connectors if a quick disconnect 
arrangement is needed.

TRS jacks utilize a single pressure point and reliability degrades over 
time -- usually due to oxidation and dust build-up.  Lubricants like DeOxit 
and Cramolin seem to help but if I was to install an Internet-based station 
at some remote location, I would want to remove all traces of TRS connectors 
to the best extent possible.

Paul, W9AC

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter


 On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 17:25:47 -0500, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

Completely DISagree.  Panel space is at a premium, and amplified
speakers DO come with a stereo plug.  Tip-sleeve plugs are *SO* 1950s.
 Stick with your first answer.

 Sure, panel space is at a premium. That's why the choice was made. But
 it's a bad choice, for the reasons stated. The vast majority of AMPLIFIED
 loudspeakers have severe RFI problems. The appearance of specialized
 products like the West Mountain units are quite new, and a reaction to
 that reality. Their website says they come with a 3-circuit 1/8-inch
 JACK, so you still need a 3-circuit plug to plug patch cable.

 73,

 Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Jim McDonald
I'm using a pair of relatively expensive ($135, more than 10 years ago)
amplified, Sony PC speakers and haven't noticed any RFI.  The instruction
leaflet that came with them says they are magnetically shielded, so maybe
that's why they're OK with RF.

They have an internal 120VAC P/S and are heavy (3#/speaker).  They are model
SRS-88PC.  They sound fine for SSB and CW, though I usually use headphones.

And they use a stereo, mini plug!

Jim N7US



-Original Message-

snip

The vast majority of AMPLIFIED 
loudspeakers have severe RFI problems. The appearance of specialized 
products like the West Mountain units are quite new, and a reaction to 
that reality. Their website says they come with a 3-circuit 1/8-inch 
JACK, so you still need a 3-circuit plug to plug patch cable. 

73,

Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] K3: Thinking return to K3.

2010-01-05 Thread Ruben Navarro Huedo
Hello friends:
I am Ruben from Spain.
Around 10 months ago i owned a K3/100 with ATU and original 2.7 filter.
I tested it around 2 months and after that i sold it.
At that moment i didn't like its audio (very crispy for me) and 
selectivity with 2.7 filter wasn't better than my old 756pro2.
Now i am thinking buy again one K3, but this time with better filters 
and voice keyer.
I my options is also an IC-7600.
I think this question has been done lots of times in this list, but 
excuse me, i have to ask...
What do you think?
Is audio better in last units?
With better filters... A lot better selectivity?
Your coments are very helper for my choice.
Has anybody tested a k3 and 7600 at same time?

Thank's a lot friends and happy 2010.

-- 
Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
http://www.palotes.com
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Paul Christensen
Forgot to add that for high-density applications, Sub-D connectors are 
excellent when maximum reliability and easy disconnect are needed.  I like 
to use crimp Sub-Ds where the pin can be inserted into the connector body. 
That goes much faster with better repeatability than the solder Sub-D types. 
If needed, a fanned break-out cable can be created, using the end connectors 
of one's choice.

Paul, W9AC

 - Original Message - 
 From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 5:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter


 On Tue, 5 Jan 2010 17:25:47 -0500, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

Completely DISagree.  Panel space is at a premium, and amplified
speakers DO come with a stereo plug.  Tip-sleeve plugs are *SO* 1950s.
 Stick with your first answer.

 Sure, panel space is at a premium. That's why the choice was made. But
 it's a bad choice, for the reasons stated. The vast majority of AMPLIFIED
 loudspeakers have severe RFI problems. The appearance of specialized
 products like the West Mountain units are quite new, and a reaction to
 that reality. Their website says they come with a 3-circuit 1/8-inch
 JACK, so you still need a 3-circuit plug to plug patch cable.

 73,

 Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] K3 External speaker connection

2010-01-05 Thread Ken Kopp
It's amazing the amount of verbiage and reflector traffic
this subject has generated!

Purist's opinions not withstanding, Radio Scrap has a 
cord that will meet everyone's needs ... a male 1/8 
stereo plug on one end and several choices for the 
other end.  I think there's even one with bare wire on
the other end.  The cords come in a variety of lengths. 
The other end might be a female or male phonos, or
something else.  Cut off whatever your speakers now 
have and attach a mating connector for your chosen
RS cable's connector.  

The (self-generated) problem will be solved.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Matching Thought

2010-01-05 Thread Brian Machesney
This seems like a potential application for the KRC2. Could it not be
co-located with a relay-controlled array of matching components? I know that
one of the big concerns is the length of the AUXBUS cable; perhaps BCD
control via something akin to rotor cable would be more appropriate.

Yes, the per-band-segment selection of control relay values would have to be
determined a priori, but once identified should be repeatably selectable
with the KRC2's 36 output drivers.

-- 
73 -- Brian -- K1LI
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread David Dunn
I'm amazed about all this waffle about speakers and stereo plugs and
adaptors. We (well most of us) passed an exam to show we were competant at
basic electrical knowledge

It takes little longer to make up such a lead or adaptor to suit our
personal requirement  than it does to type a message to the reflector asking
where one can be purchased!
Total cost of two mono in line sockets and one stereo plug plus a short
wire, all from the junk box.
To run two mono speakers from the rear of the K3 works wonderfully. In fact
using a pair of 3 x 3 speakers ( from some old vehicle, these have Nokia
printed on the back) the audio is as good as I have heard in years from a
communications rx. It is great to use headphones, permanently connected and
be able to switch speakers on instantly should it be desired.

   73 David VK3DBD

On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 5:53 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:

 On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:20:07 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote:

 Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board,
 I
 have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC
 boards.

 While I appalud your willingness to share, there is another good
 solution. What we really need is a stereo to mono breakout cable
 that has a 3-circuit male plug wired for stereo, split to two mono
 jacks. Here's the problem -- Radio Schlock, Worst Buy, and their
 ilk pushed the real connector mfrs out of the market with cheaply
 made connectors and adapter cables, but they don't sell the cable
 we need.

 The GOOD connectors are made by Switchcraft and Neutrik. In North
 America, we can buy these parts from vendors like Newark, Allied,
 Digikey, etc. The catch is that they cost more than a buck, and
 hams can be cheap, so they think they're too expensive. They're
 not -- they are of much higher quality, don't have the melting
 insulation and lousy contact material problems of the cheap
 connectors, and are far more robust mechanically.

 The solution is simple. Simply belly up to the bar and place an
 order with one of these real electronics vendors for real
 connectors and build your own adapters.

 Now a brickbat to Elecraft. Speakers are individual products, they
 don't come wired with 3-circuit plugs, and as noted above, it's
 not easy to buy parts to build adapters. What Elecraft SHOULD have
 done is provide TWO output jacks, not one. They played cheap (or
 dumb, to the extent that they were ignorant of the marketplace).
 Now to fix it? Rebuilding the I/O panel is costly. A better fix
 for their design error is to provide the unique breakout cable
 that is required.

 It has long been good practice when selling quality electronics
 products to ship unique connectors and or cable assemblies with
 the product, especially when they are not commonly available in
 the marketplace. This breakout cable is exactly such a unique
 part.

 73,

 Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Thinking return to K3.

2010-01-05 Thread Steve Ellington
Ruben
Low frequency audio has been extended and some high frequency artifacts have 
been reduced on the K3.
If you are an SSB only operator, selectivity won't matter much. For cw, the 
narrow roofing filters will prevent the hardware AGC from reducing gain when 
a strong signal is just outside the DSP's bandpass. ExampleIf you only 
have the 2.7 filter but have the DSP set for 200Hz width and a strong signal 
is 2 Khz away, your hardware AGC may activate and reduce the overall gain 
making it difficult to copy the desired signal. That's what roofing filters 
are for.
The ICOMS basically don't have a roofing filter worth mentioning. Yes, the 
advertise 3 KHZ but that will do you good whatsoever under conditions just 
described.
Finally, the scope on the ICOMS is nice but the LP-PAN external unit is far 
superior and so will be the planned P3. 73
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: Ruben Navarro Huedo runa...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 6:16 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Thinking return to K3.


Hello friends:
I am Ruben from Spain.
Around 10 months ago i owned a K3/100 with ATU and original 2.7 filter.
I tested it around 2 months and after that i sold it.
At that moment i didn't like its audio (very crispy for me) and
selectivity with 2.7 filter wasn't better than my old 756pro2.
Now i am thinking buy again one K3, but this time with better filters
and voice keyer.
I my options is also an IC-7600.
I think this question has been done lots of times in this list, but
excuse me, i have to ask...
What do you think?
Is audio better in last units?
With better filters... A lot better selectivity?
Your coments are very helper for my choice.
Has anybody tested a k3 and 7600 at same time?

Thank's a lot friends and happy 2010.

-- 
Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
http://www.palotes.com
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.126/2601 - Release Date: 01/05/10 
02:35:00

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[Elecraft] K3: Strange SWR reading

2010-01-05 Thread O . Johns
Dear Dick,

I posted this problem on the reflector some time back, but noone picked up on 
it, so I'll try again.  This is a before and after story and has me puzzled.

BEFORE:  I connected DL1 dummy load to Ant 1 using only a BNC-MtoM and a 
PL259-FtoF (no coax at all, just small straight-through adapters).  I set the 
KAT3 to BYPASS.  I pressed TUNE and saw 1.0, on all bands.  Fine, this is what 
I expect.  Also, using my link-coupled external tuner with the antenna 
connected (I seldom use the KAT3), I was able to adjust to 1.0 on all bands 
(except 6 meters).

AFTER:  After the first time I ran the Calibrate Transmitter Gain routine 
from the Elecraft K3 Utility, I pressed TUNE with the DL1 still connected and 
saw a SWR reading of 1.1 on all bands, not 1.0 as before.  Also, when I use my 
external tuner, the lowest SWR I can obtain now is 1.1, not 1.0 as before.  

WHY?

I just upgraded the K3 (#1741) with all current mods and the new DSP board.  
So, I re-calibrated everything.  Same result re the 1.1 SWR reading.  

Here is what happens:

I attach the DL1 and set KAT3 to BYPASS as per the instructions.  I run through 
the steps and click on Calibrate in the 5 Watt page.  The calibration routine 
runs to completion successfully.  At every frequency I see on the K3 front 
panel readout the following two-step sequence:
- The frequency to be used
- The numbers 1.1 which quickly change to 1.0
It seems as if the software is adjusting something to get to 1.0 for the SWR.  
What?  I don't hear any clicks so doubt it is adjusting any toroids or 
capacitors the ATU.  Maybe it is adjusting the final transistor bias?  

After this calibration, pressing TUNE with the DL1 still connected and the KAT3 
still in BYPASS, I see 1.1 SWR.

I then did the routine again, but this time doing the 5 watt and then the 50 
Watt Calibration (the DL1 doesn't get very hot due to the short duty cycle).  
At 5 Watts, the result is the same as above.  At 50 Watts, I see the following 
for each frequency step:
- The frequency to be used
- The number 1.0
This time it doesn't seem to be adjusting anything.  Maybe that was already 
done at 5 Watts?  It just starts out at 1.0 and stays there.

After this calibration, pressing TUNE with the DL1 still connected and the KAT3 
still in BYPASS, I see 1.1 SWR.

So, what is going on?  It seems to me that if I adjust the transmitter using 
DL1 as the reference for 1.0 SWR, then pressing TUNE with the DL1 attached and 
KAT3 still in BYPASS should also give 1.0.

So, two question:
(1)  What is the software adjusting that affects the SWR shown on the K3 front 
panel display?
(2)  Why is the end result a lowest SWR of 1.1 instead of 1.0?

Thanks for any information.

Oliver Johns
W6ODJ

PS:  Configuration information:
K3 #1741, KPA3, KAT3, KBPF3, KTCXO3-1, KXV3, K3DSPUPGD upgrade, REMIOUPGD 
upgrade, all Elecraft-recommended user mods up to 1 Jan 2010 done, and no other 
mods done.  No KRX3.  No KXV3A upgrade.




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[Elecraft] Home Brew Speaker Adapter

2010-01-05 Thread Steve Ellington
I present my highly technical speaker adapter for the K3. It's provided 
nearly 2 years of constant service.
http://n4lq.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=64864290

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Thinking return to K3.

2010-01-05 Thread Thomas Norff
Ruben,

i've just done a comparison of both trx (no open decision ... just for
fun...).
My interest is not to be pro or con K3 or other products !
Technically there is no really poorly designed trx. 
It's all about design decisions with all associated pros and cons..
At the end we stopped comparing technical values and design decisions ...

The IC7600 is a finished product, while the K3 is still evolving ...

The userinterface of the IC7600 is quite good. 
The possibility to connect a keyboard is neat for digital modes.
I also like the haptics and the display.

My K3 will have a nice display in the near future and i also guess there
will be a keyboard connected to the K3 :o)
The NR and the audio of the K3 evolved a lot (a new K3 will include the new
DSP-Board).
So it's more a question of personal preferences.
I like to be part of a community evolving a product. 

You have to be shure what features you will need during your typical
operation.
Are you willing to use a computer beside the trx ?

The technical differences will be recognizable only within pileups or
multiple strong signal situations.

This is my personal opinon  -  YMMV

vy 73 de Thomas, DM7TN
K3/100 #78


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ruben Navarro Huedo
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 12:16 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Thinking return to K3.

Hello friends:
I am Ruben from Spain.
Around 10 months ago i owned a K3/100 with ATU and original 2.7 filter.
I tested it around 2 months and after that i sold it.
At that moment i didn't like its audio (very crispy for me) and selectivity
with 2.7 filter wasn't better than my old 756pro2.
Now i am thinking buy again one K3, but this time with better filters and
voice keyer.
I my options is also an IC-7600.
I think this question has been done lots of times in this list, but excuse
me, i have to ask...
What do you think?
Is audio better in last units?
With better filters... A lot better selectivity?
Your coments are very helper for my choice.
Has anybody tested a k3 and 7600 at same time?

Thank's a lot friends and happy 2010.

--
Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
http://www.palotes.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Home Brew Speaker Adapter

2010-01-05 Thread Iain MacDonnell - N6ML
On Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 1:25 AM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com wrote:
 I present my highly technical speaker adapter for the K3. It's provided
 nearly 2 years of constant service.
 http://n4lq.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=64864290

Too complicated for me! Fortunately I had picked up a commercial
version of that at Guitar Center a while back (for some other
project). 1/8 stereo plug to 2 x 1/4 mono jacks - one for tip and
one for ring. Quality seems decent (maybe built to withstand
traveling musicians?).

~Iain / N6ML
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[Elecraft] Price difference JA Vs US

2010-01-05 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Group,

To save the band width here, I have done an Excel file to compare the prices of 
Elecraft products in JA and US which shows a price difference ranging from 47% 
to 106%.

If you want a copy of my analysis, please email me off the list.

73

Johnny VR2XMC


  Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略,教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo..yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!

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Re: [Elecraft] Home Brew Speaker Adapter

2010-01-05 Thread Hector Padron
I do have the same adapter but sold at Radio Shack,its a 
 1/8 stereo plug to 2 x 1/8 mono jacks - one for tip and
one for ring. I have been using it for a year now with no problem and two RCA 
speakers.
 
AD4C

For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Wed, 1/6/10, Iain MacDonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org wrote:


From: Iain MacDonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Home Brew Speaker Adapter
To: Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Wednesday, January 6, 2010, 1:32 AM


On Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 1:25 AM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com wrote:
 I present my highly technical speaker adapter for the K3. It's provided
 nearly 2 years of constant service.
 http://n4lq.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=64864290

Too complicated for me! Fortunately I had picked up a commercial
version of that at Guitar Center a while back (for some other
project). 1/8 stereo plug to 2 x 1/4 mono jacks - one for tip and
one for ring. Quality seems decent (maybe built to withstand
traveling musicians?).

    ~Iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-05 Thread Skip, W9SKP

Dear Steve,
Welcome to the amateur and K3 community! I would like to share two thoughts
regarding a pre-made antenna and a power source.  First, I recommend you
make use of the eHam website - there's a lot of useful information and
reviews there.  Along that line, I suggest you look at the True-Talk 40m
G5RV.  I have one as an inverted V and I am very pleased with it.  I have
made contacts to Europe, Russia, Australia, etc.  The K3 will autotune from
80, 40, 20 and 10m.  The eHam review is found at 
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/2202
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/2202 .  A reasonable AC power supply is
the Alinco DM-340MVT for around $177.  I know there are a lot of other very
good options out there, these are just two.  It was not long ago that I was
a new ham and I remember appreciating the specific recommendations.  So you
may consider these in addition to the many great recommendations and
instructions you have already received from the more experienced hams on
this thread.
73,
Skip, W9SKP
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4258804.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Larry - K2GN
I like it when guys post info about K3 related products and projects like 
Don's
Although some of us might have the abilbilty to do the Y or other small 
thing, we may not have the capability to go out shopping for speakers and 
phone jack, plugs, wire etc due to some handycap.
You have no idea how many mini plugs I ruined trying to do something like 
Don is doing.
I ordered two!!

Yeah once I've gather my info in those threads I start hitting the delete 
key.  You can get overloaded.
de K2GN
K3 S/N 3278 

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Re: [Elecraft] West Mtn Com Spkr review

2010-01-05 Thread Greg
I completely agree.  I just got a pair of these delivered last week and 
am very happy with them.  I too found the cable to the left speaker 
about 6 inches too short for where I needed to put them.  Luckily I had 
a short RCA extension already on hand.

73
Greg
AB7R


On 1/5/2010 1:45 PM, Steve Ellington wrote:
 http://www.eham.net/reviews/review/87019


 Steve
 N4LQ
 n...@carolina.rr.com
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 270.14.126/2602 - Release Date: 01/05/10 
 19:35:00


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Re: [Elecraft] West Mtn Com Spkr review

2010-01-05 Thread Greg
Call HRO...they have them...or at least they did last week.


On 1/5/2010 2:22 PM, KE4INM wrote:
 I just got off the phone with West Mountian Radio. At this time they do not
 know when or if the will have the speakers in stock. He said if they can't
 get them they will be removing them from their web site.
 Jim
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 270.14.126/2602 - Release Date: 01/05/10 
 19:35:00


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Re: [Elecraft] West Mtn Com Spkr review

2010-01-05 Thread Steve Ellington

Woops...Guess HRO is all out:
9) Manufacturer: WestMtn
Item : COMspkr
Description : Amplified comm spkrs w EMI and RFI Protection 1 PAIR
YOUR HRO PRICE $39.95
Stock status:
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: Greg a...@cablespeed.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] West Mtn Com Spkr review



Call HRO...they have them...or at least they did last week.


On 1/5/2010 2:22 PM, KE4INM wrote:
I just got off the phone with West Mountian Radio. At this time they do 
not
know when or if the will have the speakers in stock. He said if they 
can't

get them they will be removing them from their web site.
Jim
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 270.14.126/2602 - Release Date: 
01/05/10 19:35:00




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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.126/2602 - Release Date: 01/05/10 
14:35:00
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Thinking return to K3.

2010-01-05 Thread Wayne Burdick
(Disclaimer: I'm biased, by definition :)

The K3 also has:

- a 2nd receiver option with identical performance to the main, which  
allows you to listen to two bands at once, or do diversity receive  
(the 7600 has dual-watch, but this cannot provide diversity receive  
because both receivers always share one antenna)

- an internal 2-meter option (10 W output, all modes)

- much lighter weight -- less than 10 lb, vs. 22 lb (great for  
portable/emergency operation, field day, DXpeditions, etc.)

- about 1/3rd as much receive-mode current drain (~1A vs. 3A)

- over 20 dB better dynamic range in most receive categories:

 http://www.sherweng.com/table.html

- very narrow roofing filters (as low as 200 Hz, vs. 3 kHz minimum for  
the IC-7600 -- tightest you can get in the high-performance class)

- extensive support for external transverters, including up to 9  
programmable bands

- very wide-range ATU (nominally 10:1, but will frequently match 20:1  
or better at QRP levels)

- both VFO A and VFO B knobs

- duplicate mic and headphone jacks on rear panel (good for keeping  
cables away from front of the rig)

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jan 5, 2010, at 5:26 PM, Thomas Norff wrote:

 Ruben,

 i've just done a comparison of both trx (no open decision ... just for
 fun...).
 My interest is not to be pro or con K3 or other products !
 Technically there is no really poorly designed trx.
 It's all about design decisions with all associated pros and cons..
 At the end we stopped comparing technical values and design  
 decisions ...

 The IC7600 is a finished product, while the K3 is still evolving ...

 The userinterface of the IC7600 is quite good.
 The possibility to connect a keyboard is neat for digital modes.
 I also like the haptics and the display.

 My K3 will have a nice display in the near future and i also guess  
 there
 will be a keyboard connected to the K3 :o)
 The NR and the audio of the K3 evolved a lot (a new K3 will include  
 the new
 DSP-Board).
 So it's more a question of personal preferences.
 I like to be part of a community evolving a product.

 You have to be shure what features you will need during your typical
 operation.
 Are you willing to use a computer beside the trx ?

 The technical differences will be recognizable only within pileups or
 multiple strong signal situations.

 This is my personal opinon  -  YMMV

 vy 73 de Thomas, DM7TN
 K3/100 #78


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ruben Navarro  
 Huedo
 Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 12:16 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Thinking return to K3.

 Hello friends:
 I am Ruben from Spain.
 Around 10 months ago i owned a K3/100 with ATU and original 2.7  
 filter.
 I tested it around 2 months and after that i sold it.
 At that moment i didn't like its audio (very crispy for me) and  
 selectivity
 with 2.7 filter wasn't better than my old 756pro2.
 Now i am thinking buy again one K3, but this time with better  
 filters and
 voice keyer.
 I my options is also an IC-7600.
 I think this question has been done lots of times in this list, but  
 excuse
 me, i have to ask...
 What do you think?
 Is audio better in last units?
 With better filters... A lot better selectivity?
 Your coments are very helper for my choice.
 Has anybody tested a k3 and 7600 at same time?

 Thank's a lot friends and happy 2010.

 --
 Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
 http://www.palotes.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Thinking return to K3.

2010-01-05 Thread Philippe Trottet
Dear Ruben,
The mailing list and the support from Electraft are outstanding and a
bit surprised you haven't founded the right adjustments. Just think this
rig is not like the others.
If you want a limousine the usual rigs are perfect, if you want a F1
performer Elecraft rigs are the choice. 
Personally I'm improving it weeks after weeks, thanks to all
Elecrafters who shared their experience and I can tell you after testing
most of the Professional and Hams rigs on the market for decades,
Elecraft waked my Ham spirit, thanks to Wayne  Eric.
As a Ham radio what a pleasure to adjust itself all parameters in order
to take the best of that rig.
Hope you will join back the Elecrafters soon. May be one day on the air
!
Happy New year 2010 to you and your family.
Bst 73's
Philippe A65BI
K3#3616

http://www.qrz.com/callsign/A65BI
 

Philippe TROTTET 
Head of Field Telecom Unit - DUBAI

 
United Nations High Commissioner for  Refugees
International Humanitarian City
Office Building Nº3 - Room 2, 1st Floor
Doha Street
PO BOX: 506013
DUBAI - U.A.E.
 
Dubai time: GMT +4
W: Sunday to Thursday
HQ Ext: 7120
Vsat: xx 41 22 7120
External:
+971 4 3601753
+41 22 739 7120
Mobile: +971 504531756
Website: www.unhcr.org ( http://www.unhcr.org/ )
 

 Ruben Navarro Huedo runa...@gmail.com 06-01-2010 3:16 
Hello friends:
I am Ruben from Spain.
Around 10 months ago i owned a K3/100 with ATU and original 2.7
filter.
I tested it around 2 months and after that i sold it.
At that moment i didn't like its audio (very crispy for me) and 
selectivity with 2.7 filter wasn't better than my old 756pro2.
Now i am thinking buy again one K3, but this time with better filters 
and voice keyer.
I my options is also an IC-7600.
I think this question has been done lots of times in this list, but 
excuse me, i have to ask...
What do you think?
Is audio better in last units?
With better filters... A lot better selectivity?
Your coments are very helper for my choice.
Has anybody tested a k3 and 7600 at same time?

Thank's a lot friends and happy 2010.

-- 
Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
http://www.palotes.com 
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