[Elecraft] K3/O-Mini + Remote Rig Configuration for Heil Headset

2014-12-23 Thread Barry Baines
I am having difficulties getting my Heil ProSet with the HC-4/HC-5 mic 
cartridge to work with the K3/O-Mini + RemoteRig (purchased from Elecraft) 
where there is no audio reaching the K3 at the radio site.  I’m told that the 
Heil mic cartridge is a dynamic element with no pre-amp gain.  The mic 
connection for the K3 is set for the rear panel with no Bias and “Low” Gain per 
the Heil documentation on their website (“All Things Elecraft”).   The incoming 
audio (transmit) is fed from the Remote Rig-Remote front panel Aux/Mic using 
the supplied cable from Elecraft that connects to both the PTT In and Mic-Mono 
at the back of the K3.  

I’ve tried various configuration setups with the Control-RR to see if changing 
the audio level from the control site makes a difference, such as increasing 
the Codec inp gain, changing Codec Inp preamp to “no” and varying the Audio 
Quality specified at both remote rig units.  Using TX-Test, I then speak into 
the Mic and check for ALC and compression, varying the mic gain and 
compression.  At no time do I see any measurement on the K3/O-Mini meters for 
ALC and compression.  The “monitor” capability is also not working as I can’t 
hear myself through the headset.  

I’m wondering if the Remote Rig system is setup for the Elecraft MH-2 mic which 
I understand does have amplification.  If so, this may prevent a dynamic mic 
cartridge working properly with Remote Rig-Control.  I’ve tried using the mic 
input on the side of the K3/O-mini as well as using the Kenwood adapter to 
utilize the 8-pin connector.  I saw a note the other day from Mark, VA2MM which 
shows his setup for the Radio Side and Control Side;  those settings didn’t 
work. I’ve tried the default settings specified in the “K3-Remote Owner’s 
Manual” with no success.

I have excellent audio quality coming from the K3 to the K3/O-Mini unit;  the 
receiver audio sounds fine at the control site. I presume this means that there 
is a good audio connection between the two remote rigs. The radio site uses DSL 
with a low bandwidth (10 Mpbs Down/784 Kpbs Up) so if the receiver audio is 
good, I’m presuming that bandwidth wouldn’t be the problem on the transmit side 
as it would be on the higher capacity downlink to the DSL site.  

Any suggestions on what to check either in the K3 configuration or the Remote 
Rig setup at either the control site or the remote site?  Given that the 
connection is through the internet, are there any router or other 
considerations that I should check?  At the Remote (radio) site, I’m using the 
default UDP/TCP configurations for RRIG_cmd, RRIG_audio, and RRIG_sip with port 
forwarding to the Remote Rig-Radio.   I do have the ability to access the 
Remote Rig-Remote from the control site so that I can make configuration 
changes at both ends and restart both Remote Rig devices. Consequently, I can 
update both Remote Rig boxes (control and remote) as needed.   

I should also note that the last time I was at the remote site, I was able to 
test the system at the station itself and  push audio from the K3/O-Mini to the 
K3 via the Local Area Network when the K3/O-mini was next to the K3 on the same 
LAN.   When I got back to the “control site” , I had no transmit audio at al to 
the K3..  That may suggest an internet issue, but at this point I have no real 
handle on the source of the problem.  

Thanks and Merry Christmas,

Barry Baines, WD4ASW
Westborough, MA (Control Site)
Folkston, GA (Remote Site)
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1000

2014-12-23 Thread Wayne Burdick

On Dec 23, 2014, at 7:15 PM, KG5EJU  wrote:

> Very new to Elecraft, just own a W2, but looking long at the KPA500.  Heard a 
> couple rumors that a 1000 Watt unit was coming….

Not. Keep those ideas coming :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1000

2014-12-23 Thread Fred Jensen
I wouldn't be holding my breath Dan.  At one time, quite awhile ago, 
there were rumors of a KPA800 and/or KPA1500, and I believe one or more 
prototypes were built.  A good friend, one of the Elecraft KPA500 
engineers, mentioned that those prototypes fed a lot of the design into 
the 500, possibly why the 500 will run forever on RTTY at 500+ watts. 
I'm told the field testers were instructed to run them with all bars lit.


There are a lot of good 1.0, 1.2, and 1.5 KW HF amps out there, this may 
be a market Elecraft has decided to pass up.  I don't blame them.


My KPA500 is solid as a rock.  I had a 1200 W amp before, I ran it at 
500 W for a year just to see if I could tell the difference, I couldn't, 
N6RK now has my old amp, I'm a happy ham.  If I run the temp up to 70C, 
[that would be constant CQ's in a RTTY contest] the fans kick in, my 
wife says "they're noticeable."  I'm about 3/4 deaf, I always operate 
with headphones, and I don't notice it.  YMMV  I've never had them come 
on high on CW or SSB.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org

On 12/23/2014 7:15 PM, KG5EJU wrote:

Very new to Elecraft, just own a W2, but looking long at the KPA500.
Heard a couple rumors that a 1000 Watt unit was coming, but with
separate power supply.

Any truth to this?

Thanks.

- Dan


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 phone plug

2014-12-23 Thread John McBee

On 12/23/2014 7:29 AM, W2BLC wrote:
I had that problem early on and figured it was a film of some kind on 
the innards of the jack - had to wiggle the plug to get it to work. 
So I used some of that high dollar contact cleaner on the plug 
and then while it was still dripping wet, plugged it in and twisted it 
around for a few seconds. That fixed the problem. Your mileage may vary!


Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Problem still exist, however I have discovered that if I turn on spkr+ph 
to on, I have audio fine without headphones plugged in, but if I change 
it to spkr+ph to NO then the audio in speaker shuts off with no 
headphones plugged in.  I have sprayed my phone connector plug with 
Eledtronic cleaner and put in phone jack and turned it and still no 
audio out speaker with phone plug out.  When I turned on my K3 this 
evening before doing the test, I could not get any audio out speaker at 
all.  Before it was hit and miss.  So question again, cud it be phone 
plug on the K3 or firmware issue? Firmware agn is MCU 4.86.


Thanks
John
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1000

2014-12-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dan,

No truth whatsoever as far as I know.
There were prototypes for an 800 watt and a 1500 watt amplifier shown 
many years ago, but those served as 'learning lessons' for the KPA500.
The KPA500 will do 600 to 700 watts with ease, weighs only 26 pounds, 
and integrates with the K3 making the K3 appear to be a 500 watts 
transceiver.  That is why it is the choice for many DXpeditions - light 
weight and a decent (and usable) power level.
My personal opinion is that the 500 watt level was chosen because it 
better suits the worldwide market than a higher powered amplifier, and 
is only 3 db down from a 1000 watt amp - only half an s-unit on the 
receiving end.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/23/2014 10:15 PM, KG5EJU wrote:

Very new to Elecraft, just own a W2, but looking long at the KPA500.  Heard a 
couple rumors that a 1000 Watt unit was coming, but with separate power supply.

Any truth to this?




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[Elecraft] KPA1000

2014-12-23 Thread KG5EJU
Very new to Elecraft, just own a W2, but looking long at the KPA500.  Heard a 
couple rumors that a 1000 Watt unit was coming, but with separate power supply.

Any truth to this?

Thanks.

- Dan
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DC Output

2014-12-23 Thread Bill Adams
The mod kit has a label for the higher current capacity that is used to cover 
the original one on the K3.  I'm guessing new K3s are labeled correctly with 
the higher available current. 

Bill AF4B

-Original Message-
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
Sent: ‎12/‎22/‎2014 2:17 PM
To: "Dauer, Edward" ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 DC Output

Ted,

Yes, K3s manufactured after the mod came out do have the 1 amp output 
rating starting with SN 6588.
The Owner's Manual itself has not been updated, but Errata Rev D10-5 
dated June 9, 2014 states the places where the manual should be manually 
updated.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2014 11:55 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> According to the Manual the K3¹s DC output socket is limited to 0.5 amps,
> which I understand means it can power a P3 alone but not both a P3 and a
> PR6-10, nor a P3 with the VGA accessory.  I looked through the on-line
> manual for the mod kit this morning - it looks like major surgery.  Did
> Elecraft incorporate the mod in K3¹s shipped after the mod came out in
> 2012?  My K3 is S/N 7562.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Error27 - Alignment and Test Part 1

2014-12-23 Thread Richard S. Leary
Benny,
I just finished my basic K1, Serial Nr 3342, with the first filter board
(20m/15m). I'm amazed at how well it went. No missing parts. Every jack &
plug fits with laser precision. All resistance & voltage measurements fell
right on, or midrange between the manuals listed parameters. I'd go back and
recheck everything. Also make sure the small mini switch (oper/cal) on the
bottom of the RF board is in the "OPER" position. It makes a difference when
checking the U8 pin 1 and pin 8 voltages. All alignment procedures went as
stated in the manual. My VFO range is 80Khz and I ended up taking ONE turn
off of coil L1 to get it down to 3.095Khz. Actual range is 84Khz. Using my
SteppIR DB-18 ant my first contact was with a station in Spokane, WA on
20mtrs. Later my 2nd contact was with a station in New London, CT. An actual
QSO with names, rigs, etc. Lasted 17 minutes. Power = 3W. Now to start the
2nd filter board (17/30 meters).
Thank you Elecraft and Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to All.

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Benjamin Schmid
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 02:02
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K1] Error27 - Alignment and Test Part 1

Hi everybody, 
 
I'm currently in the middle of building my K1 #3343. 
Right until now everything went just fine and it's been fun to build.
 
I'm at the point of the first power up and wanted to test the ATTN relay.
 
The LED comes on but there ist no relay clicking.
When hitting BAND I realized that band change wasn't possible and the TRX
shows E27.
 
The filter board is completely plugged in and seated correctly.
Off to the manual then. Have you tried turning it off an on again: yes.
No relay clicking on power up. Until then i thought that was normal.
 
I checked the orientation of Fil-U1. Its positioned correct and completely
in the socket, no bent pins etc..
I checked the voltages of Fil-U1 everything within the specified range. 
I checked some voltages at the MCU, not all yet, all within range or as
specified in the manual. 
 
I read some older posts abt similar problems. I checked Fil-R1. It's the
correct value and the solder joint seems good.
I followed the hole path of the aux bus signal from Fil-U1 Pin13 up to the
MCU. Resistance is just the 100ohm of Fil-R1. 
I redid some solder connections on the way even though they looked good, as
well as all solders on all multi pin connectors. 
On the FP-Board FP-RFC1 is the correct value, solder joints looks ok. (It's
not a resistor)
 
 
Kept reading some older posts and checked the coil resistance of all relays,
all about the same resistance (not sure about the actual value right now) ,
soldering and position of all relays ok. 

 
Right now i redid some voltage measurements. 
I found out that the voltage at FIL-U1-16 is somewhat unstable. The first
time i measured it was well below 0.3V.
This time it was around 0.6 Volts, a couple seconds later around 1.3 V while
Pin 15 is at flat 0.0V as it was before.
 
Not sure what's that supposed to tell me. Did I fry Z1 while soldering? Or
is it U1 itself causing the trouble?
 
 
 
Any ideas are much appreciated!
Thanks in advance and happy holidays.
 
73 de DG5WJ - Benny 
 
P.S. I sent the same message twice already but somehow they showed up in the
liste without any content. 
So I switched Mail adresses. Sorry for the spam!

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware

2014-12-23 Thread W2BLC

I agree - why "fix" something that is not broken.

Bill W2BLC K-Line (working just fine)

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Error27 - Alignment and Test Part 1

2014-12-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Benny,

The voltage at U1 pin 16 may be OK - that is one of the resonator pins 
and can be loaded by your DMM.  That is what makes it read as unstable.


For some reason, the K2 MCU is not communicating with the band board 
firmware.
Check all the soldering again, and if that does not resolve itself, 
obtain a replacement filter board firmware IC *and* obtain a replacement 
resonator (Z1) just in case that one is defective.
If you happen to have a spare 4 MHz resonator on hand, try replacing Z1 
- that could possibly be the entire problem.  You never know until you 
try it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/23/2014 12:53 PM, Benjamin Schmid wrote:

Hi Don,

thanks for your help.

I did the troubleshooting steps:
- Turning the K1 off and on again ->  no effect. No relays clicking on startup.

- FIL-U1 is installed correct (notch to the rear), no bent pins, checked the 
soldering of the socket.
The manual states that FIL U1 may be defective. I just wanted to clear out 
other possibilities before ordering a replacement.

- With power on I  checked the voltages at FIL U1 and FP U1 according to the 
voltages table.
All Fil U1 voltages except 16 are within range. As stated before U1 pin 16 
Voltage is unstable between below 0.3V to 1.6V
All MCU voltages are within range except Pin 6. Just measured 1.9V there should 
be 2.5V

Power consumption is at 66mA with no audio output and the LCD backlight (bright 
version) installed.

Thanks again for your time.



Be certain all pins of the headers to the filter board are well soldered.
If the band board firmware (U1) is plugged in backwards, you will have low 
voltage on pin 16 and the regulator will get hot.  The notch on U1 must point 
toward the rear of the board.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware

2014-12-23 Thread Fred Jensen

Take 2 aspirin and call in the morning?

Seriously, something resembling that sequence happened to me not long 
ago after I decided to go through all the utilities and upgrade to the 
latest.  I deleted as much of the install I could find, the shortcuts, 
and all references and re-installed it.  Works OK now.


Acer quad-core laptop + Win 7 Home

From here on, if it works and there's nothing in the update I need or 
want, I'll resist the urge to install it just because it's "there." 
Been doing that for quite awhile with the K3 firmware.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org

On 12/23/2014 11:55 AM, Phil Theis wrote:

Running the latest K3 Utility
If I select download the latest firmware
The dialog box says that it's connected to the server
says to wait
Then I get invalid handle error
then the microsoft error box comes up,
then the application crashes.

Any thoughts on what gives?   This been going on for a few days, I'm
sure the server is not down.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

2014-12-23 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
RV's all contain power supplies that are designed to use 120 volts from
either generator or park power, to provide fifty-sixty-ish DC amperage to
the 12 volt (13.8) rails and "house" batteries around the RV. RV's run a
LOT of stuff on 13.8: fridge controls, Air Cond. controls, fans, furnace,
lights, alarms, water pump, etc. The difference between these power
supplies and an automotive changer, is that the RV supplies are designed to
work with a deep cycle battery (often a pair of 6V T105's in series)
floating on the 12 volt rail, and have the 14.4 v bulk charge, 13.6 v
maintenance or "absorbtion" charge and 13.2 float settings logic built in.
The power supplies are also designed to provide up to charger max current
rating to the 12 volt rail once battery(s) are charged. Typical power
supply size for a pair of T105's is 55 or 65 amps, which will nicely power
a station with a pair of K3's plus a lot of 12v accessories. T105's are
more commonly known as pro golf cart batteries, with six in series a
typical battery array in a golf cart.

The power supply has to match the house batteries' rated max sustained
charge current. When "house" 12v draw plus battery charge current exceeds
the rated current, the power supply voltage drops to limit the current at
the rated amperage. This is what I have in my RV. Camping World prices for
these units can be beaten on the internet.


http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/wf-9800-series-converter-charger-55-amp/58324

My RV is a self-contained field day station that can put everything on the
12 volt rail.The generator or park power runs the microwave, the air
conditioning and the aforementioned RV 12v supply. The T105 house batteries
could easily handle a 2 x QRP entry for the 24 hours.

Using this kind of power supply at home to run a battery float system is
very easy, once the venting and safe location of batteries issue is
settled. The batteries and power supply can be quite a distance from the
shack if single aught copper is used to bus the current from battery to
shack and distribution/fuse device.

73, Guy.

>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

2014-12-23 Thread w...@i29.net
Hi to the group

I have a K3 and a KX3 with PX3 and PA100. I always keep an up to date config 
file on my computer. If I get an out of sequence power off I always restore the 
config using the Elecraft utility. If I load new firmware I also restore the 
good config. If I go to field day I make sure there is a good config file for 
each operator. This allows each operator to have their favorite settings and 
when I get home I can eliminate any unwanted changes by reloading my known good 
config file. I use a battery for camping and field day but even there a 
connector can come unplugged and cause trouble to the config file. Troubles in 
the config file do not always show up right away as any memory spot can be 
damaged.

The config file can be spoiled by a fat finger when changing setting in the rig 
menu. It can also be spoiled when having trouble reloading firmware.

My recommendation is to keep the config file clean and ready. Battery backup 
may be used for other reasons such as finishing a QSO but it should not be used 
just to prevent config file problems.

Ken W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> 
> 
> Well, more good information.  Maybe I stand corrected.  It's been nearly 4 
> years since I have read the manual, and my memory may have read more into the 
> statements than it should have.
> 
> I refer to page 13, right hand column, halfway down, entitled "POWER".  There 
> is a note that reads "To ensure correct save of operating parameters, turn 
> the K3 off /before/ turning the power supply off."  When I read that, I 
> thought about the short duration power failures we experience.
> 
> I thought If I only use the battery for backup to shutdown, there should be a 
> minimum of charging.  I have been using a UPS on the AC supply, but I trust a 
> float battery I can test on the DC.  I may abandon the whole idea and stay 
> with the UPS. Sometimes rejection is a good thing.
> 
> Note: As I learn more about this radio, I appreciate the thought that went 
> into it's design.
> 
> Thanks for the posts, and the bandwidth.
> 
> Dick, n0ce
> 
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[Elecraft] K3 firmware

2014-12-23 Thread Phil Theis

Running the latest K3 Utility
If I select download the latest firmware
The dialog box says that it's connected to the server
says to wait
Then I get invalid handle error
then the microsoft error box comes up,
then the application crashes.

Any thoughts on what gives?   This been going on for a few days, I'm 
sure the server is not down.


Phil K3TUF

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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] v1.16 Bug?: Cursor in AM mode

2014-12-23 Thread Alan
The KX3 (and K3) bandwidth controls are with respect too the audio 
frequency, not the RF frequency.  So in LSB mode, for example, the 
bandwidths move in opposite directions on the KX3 and PX3.  In AM mode, 
the bandwidth is mirrored about the carrier frequency.


Alan N1AL


On 12/23/2014 02:01 AM, JE0LFI wrote:

Hi

In AM mode,

When I specified the PBT to Low=0.0 and Hi=4.0, the cursor's low side(PBT I)
displayed in the left side of the center. And hi side(PBT II) displayed in
the right side of the center.

The band width of the cursor, looks like more than 4.0KHz across the center
frequency.

Is this correct?

73,

JE0LFI / Nakamura

#wish FixTrack mode and SYNC-AM mode



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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Error27 - Alignment and Test Part 1

2014-12-23 Thread Benjamin Schmid
Hi Don, 

thanks for your help.

I did the troubleshooting steps:
- Turning the K1 off and on again ->  no effect. No relays clicking on startup.

- FIL-U1 is installed correct (notch to the rear), no bent pins, checked the 
soldering of the socket.
The manual states that FIL U1 may be defective. I just wanted to clear out 
other possibilities before ordering a replacement.

- With power on I  checked the voltages at FIL U1 and FP U1 according to the 
voltages table.
All Fil U1 voltages except 16 are within range. As stated before U1 pin 16 
Voltage is unstable between below 0.3V to 1.6V
All MCU voltages are within range except Pin 6. Just measured 1.9V there should 
be 2.5V

Power consumption is at 66mA with no audio output and the LCD backlight (bright 
version) installed.

Thanks again for your time.


>> Be certain all pins of the headers to the filter board are well soldered. 
>> If the band board firmware (U1) is plugged in backwards, you will have low 
>> voltage on pin 16 and the regulator will get hot.  The notch on U1 must 
>> point toward the rear of the board. 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

2014-12-23 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
I have noted that if you remove power it does not give the processor time to 
save the last frequency and other settings that it automatically saves 
(operating conditions).  I had this happen with a defective power supply and a 
few times when the power was automatically removed.  My dog likes to sleep 
under the operating desk.  Lately he has been picking on my cable modem and 
router. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS 
Cavalla, USS Stewart
  From: Roger D Johnson 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:09 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power
   
It IS possible to send the K3 off to never-never land by removing the 12 volt 
input before
shutting the radio off with the power switch. I've had it happen whilst mucking 
around
behind my desk and accidentally pulling out the Anderson power-pole connector.

If you've saved the settings using the K3 utility, you can reset everything 
using the
procedure on page 63 of the K3 manual. NOTE: This did not work with my rotor
control plugged into the ACC socket! If you didn't save the parameters, you will
have to manually reset everything! SAVE!

73, Roger




On 12/23/2014 1:30 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
>
> Well, more good information.  Maybe I stand corrected.  It's been nearly 4 
> years since I have read the manual, and my memory may have read more into the 
> statements than it should have.
>
> I refer to page 13, right hand column, halfway down, entitled "POWER".  There 
> is a note that reads "To ensure correct save of operating parameters, turn 
> the 
> K3 off /before/ turning the power supply off."  When I read that, I thought 
> about the short duration power failures we experience.
>
>
> __
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

2014-12-23 Thread Richard Fjeld

Thanks Roger, that information is rewarding.

Imagine what would happen if a power outage occurs during a firmware 
upload. The odds are slim, but my middle name is 'Murphy'.

I want a good battery in my laptop as well.  It has to finish the upload.

Dick, n0ce


On 12/23/2014 10:09 AM, Roger D Johnson wrote:
It IS possible to send the K3 off to never-never land by removing the 
12 volt input before
shutting the radio off with the power switch. I've had it happen 
whilst mucking around
behind my desk and accidentally pulling out the Anderson power-pole 
connector.


If you've saved the settings using the K3 utility, you can reset 
everything using the
procedure on page 63 of the K3 manual. NOTE: This did not work with my 
rotor
control plugged into the ACC socket! If you didn't save the 
parameters, you will

have to manually reset everything! SAVE!

73, Roger




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

2014-12-23 Thread Roger D Johnson
It IS possible to send the K3 off to never-never land by removing the 12 volt 
input before
shutting the radio off with the power switch. I've had it happen whilst mucking 
around

behind my desk and accidentally pulling out the Anderson power-pole connector.

If you've saved the settings using the K3 utility, you can reset everything 
using the

procedure on page 63 of the K3 manual. NOTE: This did not work with my rotor
control plugged into the ACC socket! If you didn't save the parameters, you will
have to manually reset everything! SAVE!

73, Roger


On 12/23/2014 1:30 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:


Well, more good information.  Maybe I stand corrected.  It's been nearly 4 
years since I have read the manual, and my memory may have read more into the 
statements than it should have.


I refer to page 13, right hand column, halfway down, entitled "POWER".  There 
is a note that reads "To ensure correct save of operating parameters, turn the 
K3 off /before/ turning the power supply off."  When I read that, I thought 
about the short duration power failures we experience.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

2014-12-23 Thread Jim Brown

On Tue,12/23/2014 4:54 AM, david Moes wrote:
Interesting presentation and I certainly understand the principal of 
supply voltage vs IMD. There are some transmitters that I would not 
run at 12vsome are worse than others.   Im looking specifically at 
K3 performance as this is what I have, and as Don points out it is one 
of if not the cleanest out there and as pointed out droping my power 
by 30% would have little effect at the receiving end but would 
certainly reduce IMD and may get me an hour more operating time to 
boot.  What transmitter you were using on page 43


I don't know -- that part of the program was prepared by K6XX. You can 
identify his measurement slides by their screen display, which were made 
using a Rigol Spectrum Analyzer. My measurements were those done using 
the P3, looking at signals on the air.


Seems to be an ICOM 7600  for most samples  and what were the actual 
high, nominal, and low voltages.   just a guess would be the rigs spec 
High,  13.8, and spec minimum.


Also  I wonder if I could get the authors permission to use this in a 
presentation at a club meeting.


Sorry, no, because much of the content of the presentation depends on 
Bob's oral talk, and it was not recorded. You are, however, welcome to 
pass around the link.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

2014-12-23 Thread mike
My setup is charging a 33 AH AGM battery via a West Mountain Radio PowerGate
PG40S that feeds a distribution panel for the K3, P3 and other 12v
accessories. The power supply input to the PowerGate is a PowerWerx
SPS-30DM. The system can handle short power outages and keeps the battery
correctly charged. I only turn the P/S on when using the rigs unless the
PowerGate indicates a need for 'bulk' charging. When it goes to float, I
turn the P/S off. I really see this as an uninterruptible P/S protection for
the station. It was also helpful when I was chasing down an interference
signal I was seeing by eliminating any source in the house (cut the AC mains
and ran the K3/P3 form the battery.)

73 ..mike AI6II



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 phone plug

2014-12-23 Thread W2BLC
I had that problem early on and figured it was a film of some kind on 
the innards of the jack - had to wiggle the plug to get it to work. 
So I used some of that high dollar contact cleaner on the plug 
and then while it was still dripping wet, plugged it in and twisted it 
around for a few seconds. That fixed the problem. Your mileage may vary!


Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Error27 - Alignment and Test Part 1

2014-12-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Benny,

Error E27 says that your filter board is not being recognized.
Turn the manual to the Troubleshooting Appendix in the rear , page 2 and 
do the checks indicated in the E27 block.

Be certain all pins of the headers to the filter board are well soldered.
If the band board firmware (U1) is plugged in backwards, you will have 
low voltage on pin 16 and the regulator will get hot.  The notch on U1 
must point toward the rear of the board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/23/2014 5:01 AM, Benjamin Schmid wrote:

Hi everybody,
  
I'm currently in the middle of building my K1 #3343.

Right until now everything went just fine and it's been fun to build.
  
I'm at the point of the first power up and wanted to test the ATTN relay.
  
The LED comes on but there ist no relay clicking.

When hitting BAND I realized that band change wasn't possible and the TRX shows 
E27.
  
The filter board is completely plugged in and seated correctly.

Off to the manual then. Have you tried turning it off an on again: yes.
No relay clicking on power up. Until then i thought that was normal.
  
I checked the orientation of Fil-U1. Its positioned correct and completely in the socket, no bent pins etc..

I checked the voltages of Fil-U1 everything within the specified range.
I checked some voltages at the MCU, not all yet, all within range or as 
specified in the manual.
  
I read some older posts abt similar problems. I checked Fil-R1. It's the correct value and the solder joint seems good.

I followed the hole path of the aux bus signal from Fil-U1 Pin13 up to the MCU. 
Resistance is just the 100ohm of Fil-R1.
I redid some solder connections on the way even though they looked good, as 
well as all solders on all multi pin connectors.
On the FP-Board FP-RFC1 is the correct value, solder joints looks ok. (It's not 
a resistor)
  
  
Kept reading some older posts and checked the coil resistance of all relays, all about the same resistance (not sure about the actual value right now) , soldering and position of all relays ok.


  
Right now i redid some voltage measurements.

I found out that the voltage at FIL-U1-16 is somewhat unstable. The first time 
i measured it was well below 0.3V.
This time it was around 0.6 Volts, a couple seconds later around 1.3 V while 
Pin 15 is at flat 0.0V as it was before.
  
Not sure what's that supposed to tell me. Did I fry Z1 while soldering? Or is it U1 itself causing the trouble?
  



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

2014-12-23 Thread david Moes
Interesting presentation and I certainly understand the principal of 
supply voltage vs IMD. There are some transmitters that I would not run 
at 12vsome are worse than others.   Im looking specifically at K3 
performance as this is what I have, and as Don points out it is one of 
if not the cleanest out there and as pointed out droping my power by 30% 
would have little effect at the receiving end but would certainly reduce 
IMD and may get me an hour more operating time to boot.  What 
transmitter you were using on page 43Seems to be an ICOM 7600  for 
most samples  and what were the actual high, nominal, and low voltages. 
  just a guess would be the rigs spec High,  13.8, and spec minimum.


Also  I wonder if I could get the authors permission to use this in a 
presentation at a club meeting.


David Moes
dm...@nexicom.net
VE3DVY,  VE3SD

On 12/23/2014 02:24, Jim Brown wrote:

On Mon,12/22/2014 2:50 PM, david Moes wrote:
I'm just curios  is there any real test data available showing what 
IMD may be present at  various supply voltages?


The link below is for a presentation that K6XX and I did to NCCC a 
year or so ago. See slide #42 for some measurements that Bob did.


http://k9yc.com/K6XXAmpTalk.pdf

The measurements I posted a day or two ago were done at supply 
voltages between about 12.5V and 12.9V.  It's hard to find the IMD -- 
there's some, but it's WAY down.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DC Output

2014-12-23 Thread Ian White
>
>Actually, the hardest part of installing that change is removing the
>KPA3.  Once that is accomplished, the rest of the mod is easy - as Vic
>said, it is a matter of changing two components.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR

It isn't necessary to remove the KPA3 at all. A $5 pair of long-reach
surgical forceps or hemostats will do the job without unnecessary
disturbance to major organs. 

Remove only the rear fan panel, and then it's easy to reach down behind
the KPA3 using the hemostats to remove RFC48 and F2.  Lightly clip the
hemostats onto the component and then unsolder from underneath. After
clearing the holes of solder, use the hemostats again to insert each new
component from above. Easy!

Hemostats are readily available as craft tools on eBay for only a few
$/£/EUR, and the 6-inch straight pattern is probably the first one to
buy. 


73 from Ian GM3SEK


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[Elecraft] [PX3] v1.16 Bug?: Cursor in AM mode

2014-12-23 Thread JE0LFI
Hi

In AM mode,

When I specified the PBT to Low=0.0 and Hi=4.0, the cursor's low side(PBT I)
displayed in the left side of the center. And hi side(PBT II) displayed in
the right side of the center.

The band width of the cursor, looks like more than 4.0KHz across the center
frequency.

Is this correct?

73,

JE0LFI / Nakamura

#wish FixTrack mode and SYNC-AM mode



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[Elecraft] [K1] Error27 - Alignment and Test Part 1

2014-12-23 Thread Benjamin Schmid
Hi everybody, 
 
I'm currently in the middle of building my K1 #3343. 
Right until now everything went just fine and it's been fun to build.
 
I'm at the point of the first power up and wanted to test the ATTN relay.
 
The LED comes on but there ist no relay clicking.
When hitting BAND I realized that band change wasn't possible and the TRX shows 
E27.
 
The filter board is completely plugged in and seated correctly.
Off to the manual then. Have you tried turning it off an on again: yes.
No relay clicking on power up. Until then i thought that was normal.
 
I checked the orientation of Fil-U1. Its positioned correct and completely in 
the socket, no bent pins etc..
I checked the voltages of Fil-U1 everything within the specified range. 
I checked some voltages at the MCU, not all yet, all within range or as 
specified in the manual. 
 
I read some older posts abt similar problems. I checked Fil-R1. It's the 
correct value and the solder joint seems good.
I followed the hole path of the aux bus signal from Fil-U1 Pin13 up to the MCU. 
Resistance is just the 100ohm of Fil-R1. 
I redid some solder connections on the way even though they looked good, as 
well as all solders on all multi pin connectors. 
On the FP-Board FP-RFC1 is the correct value, solder joints looks ok. (It's not 
a resistor)
 
 
Kept reading some older posts and checked the coil resistance of all relays, 
all about the same resistance (not sure about the actual value right now) , 
soldering and position of all relays ok. 

 
Right now i redid some voltage measurements. 
I found out that the voltage at FIL-U1-16 is somewhat unstable. The first time 
i measured it was well below 0.3V.
This time it was around 0.6 Volts, a couple seconds later around 1.3 V while 
Pin 15 is at flat 0.0V as it was before.
 
Not sure what's that supposed to tell me. Did I fry Z1 while soldering? Or is 
it U1 itself causing the trouble?
 
 
 
Any ideas are much appreciated!
Thanks in advance and happy holidays.
 
73 de DG5WJ - Benny 
 
P.S. I sent the same message twice already but somehow they showed up in the 
liste without any content. 
So I switched Mail adresses. Sorry for the spam!

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[Elecraft] [K1] Error27 - Alignment and Test Part 1

2014-12-23 Thread Benjamin Schmid

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