Re: [Elecraft] Linear PS Recommendations

[Bob Nielsen]

Since the KPA500 has its own linear supply, you probably don't need much 
more than 20 amp capability. I have used an Astron RS-20 for the past 35 
years but I would probably go for the RS-35 or RS-50 if I was getting 
another one.


73, Bob N7XY

On 7/20/16 5:57 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

I am looking for recommendations for a linear power supply to power my shack.

Right this minute I need one just for my K3s and P3, but at some point will be 
adding a KPA500, KAT500, dual monitors, etc.  Also, looking at building a dummy 
battery to run my laptop off the shack supply (11.1VDC, so a linear reg built 
into the dummy).

I will have plenty of power soon...  40 Amp 220 VAC sub-panel going in with 8 x 20A 120, 
1x 15Amp 220, 1 x 20A 220 (yes, I know the sub branches total more than the sub-IN...  
total up the breakers in your main service).   The wiring is such that I can up it to 60 
Amps if/when I "need" it.

I just can't deal with this SMPS anymore... Ran one net on battery power and it 
was like a different world.  At some point, I will run on batteries 100%, but 
will still need a nice quiet hoss of a linear to feed the charge controller(s).

73,



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Re: [Elecraft] How difficult is it to install the FM filter ofr K3 with ...

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

You technically don't have to move the filters in the KRX3, but it just 
makes more sense to me to have them match.


Yes, if you do not have the K144XV in your K3, then there is no real 
sense in installing the 13kHz filter (unless you want to do AM transmit 
with that filter).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 9:59 PM, mike wrote:

Okay Don, just ti make sure I understand about the filters. I currently have
three matched filters in both the main and subreceiver. I would insert the
FM filter in FL1 of the main and slide the other three down. Then I would
need to leave the FL1 blank on the subreceiver and slide the three existing
ones down as I did in the main receiver, right? I then would need to
reconfigure the FW definitions for all the filters.

Actually I don't really use the 2 meter module at all at my qth. I do have a
second K3 that I have up for sale, so maybe I will install the 2 meter
module and the FM filter in it instead. It doesn't have a second receiver so
the installation would be much easier.  Hm.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 error message

[Bill Conkling]

Aren’t you supposed to have the filters in the sub receiver in the same slot as 
the main receiver?  I’m not saying that all filters in the main have to be in 
the sub, but any that are the same, shouldn’t they be in the sane slot?

…bc nr4c



> On Jul 20, 2016, at 8:15 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> Since you moved the filters in the KRX3, you may want to go into the CONFIG 
> menu and tell it which filters for the KRX3 are installed and in which slots.
> 
> 73,
> Do W3FPR
> 
> On 7/19/2016 8:06 PM, Mike Murray wrote:
>> After removing one filter from my subRx and moving the remaining filter
>> (2.8) to position #1, I'm now getting and ERR BP3 on start up.  Before I
>> open everything up again and remove the KRX3, SUBIN and SUBOUT boards and
>> reset everything as detailed in the manual, is there anything else I should
>> be doing to troubleshoot?  It's obviously a problem with the SubRx, but I
>> thought I was being ultra cautious during the disassembly/assembly process,
>> including use of static protection precautions.
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

[Bill Conkling]

I use my K3DVR a lot.  It is useful for contests as well as day-to-day DXing,  
Who enjoys calling “CQ CQ” for hours or, repeating your call when trying to 
break tha pileup on K1N, etc?

Get it.

…bill  nr4c


> On Jul 20, 2016, at 6:29 PM, Ian - Ham  wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> 
> 
> After competing somewhat competitively in the Georgia QSO Party the last few
> years, and participating as one of the hunted 13 Colonies special event
> stations in Georgia for the last couple of years, I find myself ready to add
> a voice keyer to my shack set up. To that end, and in order to minimize desk
> clutter, I'm looking at the KDVR3 for my K3 s/n 281 as a possible solution.
> However, I've heard anecdotal evidence from hams in my area who have the
> KDVR3 that it probably isn't the best solution for a voice keyer because it
> has long (>1 sec) delays before both beginning transmission of the recorded
> message and dropping transmit at the end of the message. Before I drop $150
> on a component that might not be the solution I'm looking for, I would love
> to get others' opinions and feedback on their experiences using the KDVR3 as
> a voice keyer.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> 
> 
> --Ian
> 
> Ian Kahn, KM4IK
> Roswell, GA  EM74ua
> km4ik@gmail.com  
> 
> 10-10 #74624, North Georgia Chapter #2038
> 
> PODXS 070 #1962
> K3# 281, P3 #688, KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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Re: [Elecraft] Keying the KX3

[Nr4c]

Ron ()

I have put a link to my website to access a schematic for a simple transistor 
switching interface for the KX2 and KX3. It allows use of standard KUSB cable 
to provide CW, PTT and CAT control of the radio. Looks just like a K3 to n1mm. 

Http://nr4c.net and use the Projects Tab for some fun projects. 

I am looking at a PC board and maybe kits for this interface. Stay tuned.  

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 20, 2016, at 12:22 PM, Ron Mudry  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
>  
> I just saw you post to the KX# user group, below.
>  
> I’m also wanting to run cw from N1MM.  Could you send me a schematic of the 
> transistor switch that you mentioned in your post?
>  
>  
> You need a regular KUSB cable and a simple transistor switch to take pin-7 
> signal and direct it to the key jack for CW keying. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>  
>  
> 73,
> Ron Mudry, W6FPS
> SKCC #2126
> NAQCC #376
> 10-10 #50193
>  
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Re: [Elecraft] How difficult is it to install the FM filter ofr K3 with ...

[mike]

Okay Don, just ti make sure I understand about the filters. I currently have
three matched filters in both the main and subreceiver. I would insert the
FM filter in FL1 of the main and slide the other three down. Then I would
need to leave the FL1 blank on the subreceiver and slide the three existing
ones down as I did in the main receiver, right? I then would need to
reconfigure the FW definitions for all the filters. 

Actually I don't really use the 2 meter module at all at my qth. I do have a
second K3 that I have up for sale, so maybe I will install the 2 meter
module and the FM filter in it instead. It doesn't have a second receiver so
the installation would be much easier.  Hm.

Thanks  73  ..mike  AI6II





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[Elecraft] Linear PS Recommendations

[Clay Autery]

I am looking for recommendations for a linear power supply to power my shack.

Right this minute I need one just for my K3s and P3, but at some point will be 
adding a KPA500, KAT500, dual monitors, etc.  Also, looking at building a dummy 
battery to run my laptop off the shack supply (11.1VDC, so a linear reg built 
into the dummy).

I will have plenty of power soon...  40 Amp 220 VAC sub-panel going in with 8 x 
20A 120, 1x 15Amp 220, 1 x 20A 220 (yes, I know the sub branches total more 
than the sub-IN...  total up the breakers in your main service).   The wiring 
is such that I can up it to 60 Amps if/when I "need" it.

I just can't deal with this SMPS anymore... Ran one net on battery power and it 
was like a different world.  At some point, I will run on batteries 100%, but 
will still need a nice quiet hoss of a linear to feed the charge controller(s).

73,

-- 
__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

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Re: [Elecraft] [KXPA100] ATU

[Joel Black]

Thanks, Don. It was cockpit error. Hopefully I haven’t burned anything up. I 
had the KX3 connected to ANT 1 and the antenna selector switch on RF IN. Yep, 
I’m feeling pretty small right now.

73,
Joel - W4JBB

> On Jul 20, 2016, at 19:52, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Joel,
> 
> If you have the KXAT100 in your KXPA100 then, you should set the KXAT100 to 
> AUTO while you "train" the ATU.  Move the VFO in 50kHz increments and do a 
> TUNE.  Do that for all bands of interest and each antenna of interest.
> 
> Then put the KXATU into MAN mode and it will recall the settings for each 
> band segment, but will not try to auto-tune.
> 
> If you leave it in AUTO mode, it may detect an erroneous bad SWR and attempt 
> to auto-tune.  That is more likely during SSB speech than it is for CW or 
> data modes.
> 
> If you have resonant antennas and do not wish the KXAT100 to tune, put it in 
> bypass for those antennas.
> 
> In other words, do not leave the KXAT100 in AUTO mode unless you connect an 
> antenna that you have not yet trained the antenna to.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 7/20/2016 8:34 PM, Joel Black wrote:
>> I am not completely understanding the tuning performed using the KX3 with 
>> the KXPA100.
>> 
>> First, I’m not even completely sure which mode I should be in: Byp, Man, or 
>> Auto. I have three antennas - one is a vertical which is resonant on 40 - 10 
>> except for 17 and 12 m. I have an OCF that is resonant on 40 - 10 
>> *including* 17 and 12 m. I also have a shortened 80 m inverted vee that I 
>> have to tune if I go to 75 m.
>> 
>> Currently, I have the shortened 80 m antenna selected with my antenna 
>> switch. No matter which mode I use, I never hear any relays in the KXPA100 
>> ATU and I never get below about 7.4:1 SWR. The KX3’s ATU works just fine 
>> with the same antenna. Pressing the ATU TUNE button on the KX3 starts the 25 
>> LED blinking but stopping the tuning does not stop the 25 LED from blinking. 
>> It’s blinking right now and I’m not tuning anything.
>> 
>> I’m going to go back and verify all my cabling (I also have a PX3 in the 
>> mix) and make sure I haven’t cabled something wrong. Otherwise, what else 
>> can I look for?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Joel - W4JBB
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KXPA100] ATU

[Don Wilhelm]

Joel,

If you have the KXAT100 in your KXPA100 then, you should set the KXAT100 
to AUTO while you "train" the ATU.  Move the VFO in 50kHz increments and 
do a TUNE.  Do that for all bands of interest and each antenna of interest.


Then put the KXATU into MAN mode and it will recall the settings for 
each band segment, but will not try to auto-tune.


If you leave it in AUTO mode, it may detect an erroneous bad SWR and 
attempt to auto-tune.  That is more likely during SSB speech than it is 
for CW or data modes.


If you have resonant antennas and do not wish the KXAT100 to tune, put 
it in bypass for those antennas.


In other words, do not leave the KXAT100 in AUTO mode unless you connect 
an antenna that you have not yet trained the antenna to.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 8:34 PM, Joel Black wrote:

I am not completely understanding the tuning performed using the KX3 with the 
KXPA100.

First, I’m not even completely sure which mode I should be in: Byp, Man, or 
Auto. I have three antennas - one is a vertical which is resonant on 40 - 10 
except for 17 and 12 m. I have an OCF that is resonant on 40 - 10 *including* 
17 and 12 m. I also have a shortened 80 m inverted vee that I have to tune if I 
go to 75 m.

Currently, I have the shortened 80 m antenna selected with my antenna switch. 
No matter which mode I use, I never hear any relays in the KXPA100 ATU and I 
never get below about 7.4:1 SWR. The KX3’s ATU works just fine with the same 
antenna. Pressing the ATU TUNE button on the KX3 starts the 25 LED blinking but 
stopping the tuning does not stop the 25 LED from blinking. It’s blinking right 
now and I’m not tuning anything.

I’m going to go back and verify all my cabling (I also have a PX3 in the mix) 
and make sure I haven’t cabled something wrong. Otherwise, what else can I look 
for?

Thanks,
Joel - W4JBB


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Re: [Elecraft] NPOTA NP51 Activation (KX3 and K1)

[af4b]

84' with 17' counterpoise = W3EDP, not an oddball thingy!

Bill af4b

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 20, 2016, at 1:56 PM, Detrick Merz  wrote:
> 
> Results are in!
> 
> Test #1: dummy load connected directly to the antenna analyzer
> Result: 1:1 SWR
> 
> Test #2: dummy to PL259 barrel to coax to antenna analyzer
> Result: 1:1 SWR
> 
> The coax ain't bad.
> 
> The "odd ball thingy" is an 84' "random wire" with a 17' counterpoise. The
> use of coax was an attempt to separate our antennas a bit more than we had
> done during FD, since we had experienced a bit of interference from each
> other. No interference for the NPOTA activation so maybe the separation
> helped something.
> 
> I think I (still) like that K1 almost as much as Kev likes his KX3.
> 
> -detrick
> KI4STU
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 11:52 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:
>> 
>> Detrick (KI4STU) with his K1 and I with the KX3 took off work on Monday and
>> headed up to Dickey Ridge on Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park
>> (NP51). We were both on battery power. CW was the mode of choice. The
>> antennas were end-fed - Detrick's some odd-ball thingy and mine an LNR
>> EF-40/20 (no counterpoise). Basically the same setup we used on FD but
>> trimmed down significantly for mobility and quick setup.
>> 
>> We were able to activate NP51 with 12 CW QSOs in about 2 hours.
>> 
>> There were some tricky parts.
>> 
>> The end-fed thingy Detrick had would not tune until we swapped out the
>> coax. The guess is either the original coax is bad or the length of the
>> coax was contributing to the high SWR. Waiting to find out the results.
>> Detrick normally runs the antenna directly to binding posts.
>> 
>> Checking the weather in the morning it all looked clear. Then came the
>> dangerous wind and hail alerts and it was all we could do to get everything
>> back to the cars before the downpour. Weather changes quick!
>> 
>> I uploaded the QSLs to LoTW and hope I did it right, creating a new
>> location for the park. eQSL is all kinds of messed up but I'm losing my
>> patience with that service anyway. I'm not sure if I should expect
>> something back from the ARRL concerning the activation or just assume all
>> went well.
>> 
>> GNATS, GNATS and damn GNATS!
>> 
>> Then we went to Spelunkers for some Cavern Burgers and all was good in the
>> world again.
>> 
>> I'm absolutely enjoying the KX3. My go-bag is a little Nikon camera bag
>> containing the KX3 with side panels and cover, Begali Adventure paddles,
>> mic (unused), EF-40/20 antenna, Sony in-ear phones, spool of mason line,
>> short coax, mini-log and notepad, pen, pencil, 15Ah LiFePO4 (not used for
>> this trip). There's also copy of my license in a pouch. It is freedom in a
>> bag.
>> 
>> Next trip... bug spray.
>> 
>> To top off the good news, our new little crew - Barred Owl Radio Club
>> (BORC) was just issued W4OWL. We named our group for the fledgling begging
>> call that kept us away all night on FD (yep, we slept). You can find that
>> wonderful sound of nature right here:
>> https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Barred_Owl/sounds. Scroll on down to
>> the bottom for pure listening e​​njoyment. If you don't get the impression
>> of a spike being driven into your ears you don't have the volume high
>> enough.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Kev K4VD
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[Elecraft] [KXPA100] ATU

[Joel Black]

I am not completely understanding the tuning performed using the KX3 with the 
KXPA100.

First, I’m not even completely sure which mode I should be in: Byp, Man, or 
Auto. I have three antennas - one is a vertical which is resonant on 40 - 10 
except for 17 and 12 m. I have an OCF that is resonant on 40 - 10 *including* 
17 and 12 m. I also have a shortened 80 m inverted vee that I have to tune if I 
go to 75 m.

Currently, I have the shortened 80 m antenna selected with my antenna switch. 
No matter which mode I use, I never hear any relays in the KXPA100 ATU and I 
never get below about 7.4:1 SWR. The KX3’s ATU works just fine with the same 
antenna. Pressing the ATU TUNE button on the KX3 starts the 25 LED blinking but 
stopping the tuning does not stop the 25 LED from blinking. It’s blinking right 
now and I’m not tuning anything.

I’m going to go back and verify all my cabling (I also have a PX3 in the mix) 
and make sure I haven’t cabled something wrong. Otherwise, what else can I look 
for?

Thanks,
Joel - W4JBB


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Re: [Elecraft] How difficult is it to install the FM filter ofr K3 with ...

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Not a big problem, but you do have some mechanical work to do.

Remove the 2 meter option and the KRX3.
That will expose the filters for the main receiver.
The 13kHz filter should go into the FL1 slot - that means you may have 
to move and reconfigure all the other filters installed in your K3.


Other than having to remove the K144XV and the KRX3 options to 
physically get at the main RX filters, you should have no problem when 
you re-install the KRX3 and the K144XV.


Keeping your mind straight about which filters are plugged into which 
slots and transferring that information into the CONFIG menu is the 
hardest part of the chore.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/19/2016 3:50 PM, mike wrote:

I have a K3 with the 2 meter module and second receiver installed. I recently
acquired a FM filter and am wondering how difficult it would be to install
it. Mostly I guess I am looking for an idea on what steps I need to perform
and in what order. I installed the second receiver some time ago after
installing the 2 meter module and remember it was quite involved. Before I
attempt to add the FM filter I want to make sure I am up to the challenge.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  73  ..mike  AI6II



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Re: [Elecraft] Failed K3 Firmware update DSP1

[Matthew Lawson]

Thanks Don, I talked with Howard at Elecraft today about the radio. He
thinks there might be a memory problem and the new firmware that is
address-ably larger is causing the problem. They would have to see the
radio to verify this. If this is the case then he would recommend updating
the DSP board to the new version. I am going to see if I can update to
Version 4.39 tonight and if successful stay there, or if not milk it along
until I can afford to send the radio into Elecraft. My radio is an older
one serial is 01341 so a new rig might be in order, but that is way down
the road.

Thanks again to everyone, this community for help has been a great
experience, with bricking my K3 aside. Thank you for the quick responses.

Now I really have my eyes set on a KX3 :) first things first, get this K3
figured out.

73!

*Matthew Lawson*
*KC7EQO*
*442.100 + 100 Hz PL Blyn Mt Repeater*


*http://www.qrz.com/db/KC7EQO/R *


On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 4:28 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Matthew,
>
> You should not have to do incremental firmware updates.
> Keep the 2.19 firmware files "just in case", but delete the latest
> firmware files from the folder where you have the firmware stored on your
> computer in case the copies you have are corrupt.
>
> Open K3 Utility (make sure it is the latest), and then "Get files from
> Elecraft" to download the latest production firmware.
>
> Once you have those files on your computer, click the "Send all files to
> the K3" and it should update with no problem.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 7/20/2016 12:08 AM, Matthew Lawson wrote:
>
>> Well, Howard was able to send me FW 2.19 and I had a successful flash to
>> the K3.
>>
>> Now I tried to jumped from version 2.19 to 5.38, is there a bug in jumping
>> this far? Is there a DSP hardware revision that may have an issue with
>> current version of firmware (older radio, 1st gen, etc...?)???
>>
>> Anyways my rig is back from being a brick, and is working again. YEAH!!!
>>
>> An observation on this, I accidentally tried to push just the DSP1
>> Firmware
>> from 2.19 with 5.38 MCU still installed but it would fail, saw my error
>> and
>> corrected it and had a successfully flash when the 2.19 MCU was installed
>> first. This made me wonder if this was part of the problem with the
>> update.
>> Is there some sort of version check with the DSP1 to MCU?
>>
>> I am wanting to try an incremental update from 2.19, but older firmware is
>> not published.
>>
>> Wanted to keep the list updated on whats been happening and thank you for
>> all your support in this.
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 error message

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Since you moved the filters in the KRX3, you may want to go into the 
CONFIG menu and tell it which filters for the KRX3 are installed and in 
which slots.


73,
Do W3FPR

On 7/19/2016 8:06 PM, Mike Murray wrote:

After removing one filter from my subRx and moving the remaining filter
(2.8) to position #1, I'm now getting and ERR BP3 on start up.  Before I
open everything up again and remove the KRX3, SUBIN and SUBOUT boards and
reset everything as detailed in the manual, is there anything else I should
be doing to troubleshoot?  It's obviously a problem with the SubRx, but I
thought I was being ultra cautious during the disassembly/assembly process,
including use of static protection precautions.




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

[Bill OMara via Elecraft]

Ian,

I agree!  I have two K3 with KDVRs and two without.  But All four of my K3
are using external Microham Microkeyers II because the internal KDVK is not
responsive enough for high rate contesting. 

I would love for this to be address by Elecraft so the investment can be
used every day and not just on dxpeditions when packing space is limited.

73 Bill   W4RM

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
charlie carroll
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2016 8:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; km4ik@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

Ian:
I agree with the observations about the delay times when using the KDVR3.
If you're a S, 1 QSO/hr kind of operator, then it's probably not a big
deal.  At 200+ Qs/hr, the delays are noticeable (and aggravating). On March
11th of this year, I sent a feature request to the reflector asking for some
method to get around these delays. 
Unfortunately, I never heard any response from Elecraft.

You can reduce the initiate delay by being "fast on the buttons," but, as I
found, it's not something I want to do during a contest.

The KDVR3 is nice that it's integrated into the K3 so that another box and
cables don't have to be thrown into my bag when traveling. 

73 charlie, k1xx/vp2mmf

On 7/20/2016 6:29 PM, Ian - Ham wrote:
> All,
>
>  
>
> After competing somewhat competitively in the Georgia QSO Party the 
> last few years, and participating as one of the hunted 13 Colonies 
> special event stations in Georgia for the last couple of years, I find 
> myself ready to add a voice keyer to my shack set up. To that end, and 
> in order to minimize desk clutter, I'm looking at the KDVR3 for my K3 s/n
281 as a possible solution.
> However, I've heard anecdotal evidence from hams in my area who have 
> the
> KDVR3 that it probably isn't the best solution for a voice keyer 
> because it has long (>1 sec) delays before both beginning transmission 
> of the recorded message and dropping transmit at the end of the 
> message. Before I drop $150 on a component that might not be the 
> solution I'm looking for, I would love to get others' opinions and 
> feedback on their experiences using the KDVR3 as a voice keyer.
>
>  
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
>  
>
> --Ian
>
> Ian Kahn, KM4IK
> Roswell, GA  EM74ua
> km4ik@gmail.com 
>
> 10-10 #74624, North Georgia Chapter #2038
>
> PODXS 070 #1962
> K3# 281, P3 #688, KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468
>
>  
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> __
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> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> k...@k1xx.com
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

[Clay Autery]

Yep...   I don't have any delay at all at the beginning OR end...  Just
a matter of timing the REC button pushes.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/20/2016 6:17 PM, Rick Prather wrote:
> Ian,
>
> If you get good at making the recording you can have virtually no delay at
> either the beginning or end of the message.
>
> Rick
> K6LE

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

[charlie carroll]

Ian:
I agree with the observations about the delay times when using the
KDVR3.  If you're a S, 1 QSO/hr kind of operator, then it's probably
not a big deal.  At 200+ Qs/hr, the delays are noticeable (and
aggravating). On March 11th of this year, I sent a feature request to
the reflector asking for some method to get around these delays. 
Unfortunately, I never heard any response from Elecraft.

You can reduce the initiate delay by being "fast on the buttons," but,
as I found, it's not something I want to do during a contest.

The KDVR3 is nice that it's integrated into the K3 so that another box
and cables don't have to be thrown into my bag when traveling. 

73 charlie, k1xx/vp2mmf

On 7/20/2016 6:29 PM, Ian - Ham wrote:
> All,
>
>  
>
> After competing somewhat competitively in the Georgia QSO Party the last few
> years, and participating as one of the hunted 13 Colonies special event
> stations in Georgia for the last couple of years, I find myself ready to add
> a voice keyer to my shack set up. To that end, and in order to minimize desk
> clutter, I'm looking at the KDVR3 for my K3 s/n 281 as a possible solution.
> However, I've heard anecdotal evidence from hams in my area who have the
> KDVR3 that it probably isn't the best solution for a voice keyer because it
> has long (>1 sec) delays before both beginning transmission of the recorded
> message and dropping transmit at the end of the message. Before I drop $150
> on a component that might not be the solution I'm looking for, I would love
> to get others' opinions and feedback on their experiences using the KDVR3 as
> a voice keyer.
>
>  
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
>  
>
> --Ian
>
> Ian Kahn, KM4IK
> Roswell, GA  EM74ua
> km4ik@gmail.com  
>
> 10-10 #74624, North Georgia Chapter #2038
>
> PODXS 070 #1962
> K3# 281, P3 #688, KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468
>
>  
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>
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>

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[Elecraft] unsubscribe

[Chris via Elecraft]

 
In a message dated 7/20/2016 3:24:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net writes:

[This  e-mail contains a MIME (Multipurpose Internet Mail Extensions) file. 
The file  was specially formatted to be sent over the Internet. For more 
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Re: [Elecraft] Failed K3 Firmware update DSP1

[Don Wilhelm]

Matthew,

You should not have to do incremental firmware updates.
Keep the 2.19 firmware files "just in case", but delete the latest 
firmware files from the folder where you have the firmware stored on 
your computer in case the copies you have are corrupt.


Open K3 Utility (make sure it is the latest), and then "Get files from 
Elecraft" to download the latest production firmware.


Once you have those files on your computer, click the "Send all files to 
the K3" and it should update with no problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 12:08 AM, Matthew Lawson wrote:

Well, Howard was able to send me FW 2.19 and I had a successful flash to
the K3.

Now I tried to jumped from version 2.19 to 5.38, is there a bug in jumping
this far? Is there a DSP hardware revision that may have an issue with
current version of firmware (older radio, 1st gen, etc...?)???

Anyways my rig is back from being a brick, and is working again. YEAH!!!

An observation on this, I accidentally tried to push just the DSP1 Firmware
from 2.19 with 5.38 MCU still installed but it would fail, saw my error and
corrected it and had a successfully flash when the 2.19 MCU was installed
first. This made me wonder if this was part of the problem with the update.
Is there some sort of version check with the DSP1 to MCU?

I am wanting to try an incremental update from 2.19, but older firmware is
not published.

Wanted to keep the list updated on whats been happening and thank you for
all your support in this.




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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Richard Fjeld]

Kevin,
I will be interested in anything you find.  I have a RS-50M and I am not 
aware of any noise as you describe.  It may be my hearing.


I do have a line isolator in-line left there from the days when I had a 
G5RV.  That is the only time I have known of RFI.  It was pretty bad.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/20/2016 5:03 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

A follow-up to the situation.

I purchased a PWRgate PG40S. On one side I have a marine battery. On the
other side I've got an Alinco DM-330MVT. In the middle is the KX3 and the
Flex. Only one has an antenna at any time.

I added a line isolator right below the BALUN of the OCF and another one
right at the rig input.

At this point there is no difference in the noise level on the KX3 when
comparing internal batteries vs the power setup described above. The Flex
is also not showing anything of concern on the waterfall.



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

[Rick Prather]

Ian,

If you get good at making the recording you can have virtually no delay at
either the beginning or end of the message.

Rick
K6LE

On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 3:29 PM, Ian - Ham  wrote:

> All,
>
>
>
> After competing somewhat competitively in the Georgia QSO Party the last
> few
> years, and participating as one of the hunted 13 Colonies special event
> stations in Georgia for the last couple of years, I find myself ready to
> add
> a voice keyer to my shack set up. To that end, and in order to minimize
> desk
> clutter, I'm looking at the KDVR3 for my K3 s/n 281 as a possible solution.
> However, I've heard anecdotal evidence from hams in my area who have the
> KDVR3 that it probably isn't the best solution for a voice keyer because it
> has long (>1 sec) delays before both beginning transmission of the recorded
> message and dropping transmit at the end of the message. Before I drop $150
> on a component that might not be the solution I'm looking for, I would love
> to get others' opinions and feedback on their experiences using the KDVR3
> as
> a voice keyer.
>
>
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
>
>
> --Ian
>
> Ian Kahn, KM4IK
> Roswell, GA  EM74ua
> km4ik@gmail.com 
>
> 10-10 #74624, North Georgia Chapter #2038
>
> PODXS 070 #1962
> K3# 281, P3 #688, KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> __
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[Elecraft] K3 For Sale

[McClain Richard]

The K3 transceiver for sale is Serial Number 06517 which was purchased in May, 
2012.
It includes the following options:
  -- 100 watt amplifier, internal
  -- 2.8 kHz, 8-pole filter
  -- KXV3A, RX Antenna, IF Out and Transverter Interface (needed if you add the 
P3 display)
  -- Elecraft PR 6-10 external pre-amp. (helpful on some weak signals on 6, 10 
and 12 meters)

According to Elecraft Technical Support, K3 serial numbers greater than 5000 
have "most major mods" that were updated since production startup.

Transceiver is clean, scratch-free and working well.

Price is $1900 with CONUS shipping included.

Smoke-free, non-pet home.

Thanks and 73,
Dick McClain, N9XO

dick_mcclain [at] sbcglobal.net    or   812-344-0747
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

Thanks Grant. I thought there'd be a little more inside for charging the
battery. I did a quick look for schematics on Google but didn't find
anything.

Kev


On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 6:12 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN 
wrote:

> The PWRgate is just basically Schottky steering diodes used to direct
> power from one terminal to another.  It does not generate noise …
>
> Grant NQ5T
>
>
> > I was (and maybe still am) a little skeptical about …. the PWRgate which
> I think is just the switching
> > portion of a switching power supply? So far they do not seem to be
> > generating noise. I'll have to give it some time to see if any snakes
> come
> > crawling across the waterfall.
> >
>
>
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Elecraft K1 for sale

[Jay Sissom]

Elecraft K1 QRP HF Transceiver

   - K1 Radio
   - 4 band board installed in radio (radio covers 40m, 30m, 20m, 17m)
   - Additional 2 band board (80m, 15m)
   - KAT1 Antenna Tuner
   - KNB1 Noise Blanker
   - Internal Battery Adapter
   - LCD Backlight
   - Tilt Stand

See this URL for pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/VPxWR

This radio was part of an SK estate. I have used it and it operates as it
should. The radio and options retail for $770+ as a kit.

Sell for $440 which includes shipping. Cashier check or money order. Sell
to US only.

Please contact me at jsis...@jsissom.com.

73
Jay
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Elecraft KX1 for sale

[Jay Sissom]

Elecraft KX1 QRP HF Transceiver

   - KX1 Radio (covers 20m and 40m)
   - KXB3080 band board (covers 30m/80m)
   - KXAT1 Antenna Tuner
   - Pelican Case

See this URL for pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/B4uCz

I built this radio and have used it portable. It works as it should. The
radio with options retail for $520 as a kit.

Sell for $300 including shipping. Cashier's check or money order. Sell to
US only.

Email jsissom @ jsissom.com.

73
Jay
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[Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

[Ian - Ham]

All,

 

After competing somewhat competitively in the Georgia QSO Party the last few
years, and participating as one of the hunted 13 Colonies special event
stations in Georgia for the last couple of years, I find myself ready to add
a voice keyer to my shack set up. To that end, and in order to minimize desk
clutter, I'm looking at the KDVR3 for my K3 s/n 281 as a possible solution.
However, I've heard anecdotal evidence from hams in my area who have the
KDVR3 that it probably isn't the best solution for a voice keyer because it
has long (>1 sec) delays before both beginning transmission of the recorded
message and dropping transmit at the end of the message. Before I drop $150
on a component that might not be the solution I'm looking for, I would love
to get others' opinions and feedback on their experiences using the KDVR3 as
a voice keyer.

 

Thanks and 73,

 

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com  

10-10 #74624, North Georgia Chapter #2038

PODXS 070 #1962
K3# 281, P3 #688, KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468

 



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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

We are at 14 posts on Deoxit(tm) and this topic has been pretty much beaten to 
death ;-)


Let's close the thread at this time in the interest of reducing email overload 
for others.


73,

Eric
Mooderator
/elecraft.com/

On 7/19/2016 8:12 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Quite so. I used deoxit in a small 2 oz bottle with a thin syringe-like tube
applicator that puts a very tiny amount on the contact. That's all it takes.


73 Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

The PWRgate is just basically Schottky steering diodes used to direct power 
from one terminal to another.  It does not generate noise … 

Grant NQ5T


> I was (and maybe still am) a little skeptical about …. the PWRgate which I 
> think is just the switching
> portion of a switching power supply? So far they do not seem to be
> generating noise. I'll have to give it some time to see if any snakes come
> crawling across the waterfall.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

A follow-up to the situation.

I purchased a PWRgate PG40S. On one side I have a marine battery. On the
other side I've got an Alinco DM-330MVT. In the middle is the KX3 and the
Flex. Only one has an antenna at any time.

I added a line isolator right below the BALUN of the OCF and another one
right at the rig input.

At this point there is no difference in the noise level on the KX3 when
comparing internal batteries vs the power setup described above. The Flex
is also not showing anything of concern on the waterfall.

I was (and maybe still am) a little skeptical about both the Alinco
switching power supply and the PWRgate which I think is just the switching
portion of a switching power supply? So far they do not seem to be
generating noise. I'll have to give it some time to see if any snakes come
crawling across the waterfall.

Remaining work...

I'm calling things 80% done and getting back to normal operation. I want to
add some more clip-ons to power cables as soon as I can remember where I
put them all. I need to tear into the RS-50 and see if I see anything
obvious and if not, dig deeper with the o'scope and meter and actually do
some troubleshooting. If I get it working right then I have a good backup
or loaner supply. If not... who knows. I also need to continue reading the
RFI document. There's a ton of information in it and I'm working to
actually understand what I'm reading instead of just using it as a
cookbook. A more balanced antenna - even a Hex Beam - might be on the wish
list.

Thanks for all the help and guidance. I'm feeling pretty good that things
are working well. The QRP Foxhunt is tomorrow night. I hope to be able to
blame my anticipated poor performance on atmospheric conditions and not
equipment noise.

​73!
Kevin K4VD​
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Re: [Elecraft] muffled cw sound,

[Don Wilhelm]

Renze,

Try turning the MONitor setting up.  Hold the AF Gain pot in and turn it 
- you will see the setting displayed in VFO B area.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 4:33 PM, Renze ve6dc wrote:

At last SeaPac I bought a KX3.


It works well and I also practise my CW sending with it.

I also try all the different settings to get to know the KX3 better.

I think I played a little too much because since a few days the CW sending
does not produce a CW tone anymore but a muffled and dull ticking in the
back ground.

Must be a setting that I miss but I think I tried them all.




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[Elecraft] muffled cw sound,

[Renze ve6dc]

Hi everyone,

 

At last SeaPac I bought a KX3.

 

It works well and I also practise my CW sending with it.

I also try all the different settings to get to know the KX3 better.

I think I played a little too much because since a few days the CW sending
does not produce a CW tone anymore but a muffled and dull ticking in the
back ground.

 

Must be a setting that I miss but I think I tried them all.

 

Any one have any ideas of what to do?

 

If it is important I have loaded the latest update into the KX3.

 

Regards, Renze ve6dc

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

[John R. Lonigro]

Jan,

In the "good old days", you could check a serial port by connecting pin 
2 to pin3 at the end of the serial cable.  Set the port to software 
handshaking (or else connect the control pins together in a similar 
manner-I don't recall the pin numbers). Then run a dumb terminal 
program.  What you type will be echoed to your screen, even with "echo" 
turned off.  If echo is turned on, you'd see what you typed twice.  That 
would prove the signal made it out and back and the interface works.  
The baudrate doesn't matter, as long as it's the same for transmitting 
and receiving.


73,

John AA0VE

Jan,

The best way to test a USB to serial converter is by substitution with
a known good one, or by substitution of a known good working serial
device connected to the questionable converter cable.

Yes, a power surge or a lightning event can damage serial interfaces
as well as USB interfaces.

Since your USB ports on the computer seem to work, borrow a known good
USB to serial converter and try it out - preferably one with an FTDI
chipset.

If you have any other devices that use a serial COM port interface,
see if they work with your USB to serial adapter - if so, the adapter
is probably OK, but remember that in the event of a power surge,
multiple failures are possible even though in normal troubleshooting
we assume only a single failure.

You can test the USB to serial converter with a 'scope and an RS-232
breakout box, but you have to know the proper RS-232 levels to
understand what is happening.  A null modem loopback cable can be
helpful if you have to proper driving software application for that
testing.  I did that during my years of PC modem testing, but that was
more than 30 years ago and the software ran under DOS - not helpful now.

73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Effect of mechanical connectors & sampling units on the antenna line

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

No …. not close.  You can talk to Rob about his tests, but that isn’t what he 
does.  And  any sensors between the signal generator and the radio (or your 
antenna and the radio) aren’t going to materially change anything about the 
radios performance.

How many tenths of a dB are you concerned about?  :-)

Grant NQ5T



> 
> 
> I began my question-subject with a curiosity on how the professional
> 
> evaluators test & report on modern transceiver performance such as
> 
> sensitivity, etc.  At the same time, I have been looking at some Elecraft
> 
> products: the W2, the P3 TXMON, and the like.  My instinct tells me
> 
> that no ultimate best figures can survive on an input line where there
> 
> are sampling units & PL-259 couplings, short lengths, PL-259 to BNC
> 
> adapters, etc.  So I'm thinking that when Sherwood Labs specs out
> 
> the K2 and the K3, they probably:
> 
> 
> 1.  Have the rig on a wet cell battery;
> 
> 2.  Except for the signal generator line coming, the rig is probably inside
> 
> an EMF shielded cage, etc.
> 
> 3.  The only thing going into the transceiver is a single signal cable 
> connection.
> 
> 
> Am I at least close to being right ?
> 
> 

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[Elecraft] OT: Effect of mechanical connectors & sampling units on the antenna line

[Doug Hensley]

I don't want to start a flurry of emails on this so perhaps if

you could respond privately, it will keep the list traffic down.


I began my question-subject with a curiosity on how the professional

evaluators test & report on modern transceiver performance such as

sensitivity, etc.  At the same time, I have been looking at some Elecraft

products: the W2, the P3 TXMON, and the like.  My instinct tells me

that no ultimate best figures can survive on an input line where there

are sampling units & PL-259 couplings, short lengths, PL-259 to BNC

adapters, etc.  So I'm thinking that when Sherwood Labs specs out

the K2 and the K3, they probably:


1.  Have the rig on a wet cell battery;

2.  Except for the signal generator line coming, the rig is probably inside

an EMF shielded cage, etc.

3.  The only thing going into the transceiver is a single signal cable 
connection.


Am I at least close to being right ?


And if so, how much degradation would I cause using, for example, both

the P3TXMON sampling unit and a W2 sampling unit between the antenna

and the K-Type receiver as well as a typical switching power supply feeding

the power?


Thanks for any responses to me in private.


Cheers,


Doug W5JV






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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[Don Wilhelm]

William,

It is beginning to look like either the tuner or the antenna is the problem.
Don't overlook the possibility that something has come loose or shorted 
in your antenna.  Baluns can go bad, especially if they get moisture inside.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 3:18 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:

Ok Don and Knut,

Its getting better :-)

I tryed a antenne analyzer, gives me the same as my K2, so I think K2 is
fine.
The AT-100 ( just bought it second hand, has two antenna connectors wich I
can switch. Put a dummy on the other port then switched an tune the dummy 20
1.0 - 1 so looks ok



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[will...@zendamateur.nl]

Little extra

Al tests are made on 3604. When I pick diver end bands it gives me diver end
outcome so 3 band are really 1.0. - 1 some 1.3 - 1  so its also depending on
the band,
I have a G5RV I am curious what happens without a tuner
Going to test that later, wife is waiting and have to be the man in the
house :-))

Nice testing this really is a nice group with a lot of nollage..

73 PE1BSB



-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens
will...@zendamateur.nl
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 21:21
Aan: donw...@embarqmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

PS i have the shield update.


-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens
will...@zendamateur.nl
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 21:18
Aan: donw...@embarqmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

Ok Don and Knut,

Its getting better :-)

I tryed a antenne analyzer, gives me the same as my K2, so I think K2 is
fine.
The AT-100 ( just bought it second hand, has two antenna connectors wich I
can switch. Put a dummy on the other port then switched an tune the dummy 20
1.0 - 1 so looks ok
Did the same with connectors reversed so antenne 1 is antenne 2 again 20
1.0 - 1

But with the antenne it stil give me the same as my antenne analyzer.

Is this the tuner ??

William PE1BSB


-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens Don Wilhelm
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 21:04
Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

Knut and all,

I do agree with that *and* if the band is 40 meters *and* if the KPA100 is
not the latest design T/R switch it is entirely possible that there could be
a spurious response above the 40 meter band during the time it takes to do
the antenna tuning - this may cause the ATU to tune the antenna somewhere
above the 40 meter band.
There is also the possibility that RFC10 (on the back of the SO-239
jack) is coupling with the base K2 - and that condition is worse if the
shield is the older one with a wide notch above the SO-239 jack and no
solder lugs from the SO-239 jack to the top of the shield.  I am not saying
that the problem is restricted to 40 meters, only that it is more apparent
on 40 than on other bands.

If the KPA100 has the older red core toroids at L15 and L16, it should be
updated with the KPA100MDKT because that mod was created to address exactly
that problem.
If the shield needs updated, the KPA100SHLDKT is available.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 2:38 PM, ab2tc wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I can think of one other *possible* explanation, although far fetched. 
> If the K2 transmitter has excessive harmonics or parasitics, this 
> could
happen.
> The out of band energy is readily absorbed by the dummy load but not 
> by the tuned load presented by the LDG tuner. The antenna analyzer 
> should easily resolve this.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[will...@zendamateur.nl]

PS i have the shield update.


-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens
will...@zendamateur.nl
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 21:18
Aan: donw...@embarqmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

Ok Don and Knut,

Its getting better :-)

I tryed a antenne analyzer, gives me the same as my K2, so I think K2 is
fine.
The AT-100 ( just bought it second hand, has two antenna connectors wich I
can switch. Put a dummy on the other port then switched an tune the dummy 20
1.0 - 1 so looks ok
Did the same with connectors reversed so antenne 1 is antenne 2 again 20
1.0 - 1

But with the antenne it stil give me the same as my antenne analyzer.

Is this the tuner ??

William PE1BSB


-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens Don Wilhelm
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 21:04
Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

Knut and all,

I do agree with that *and* if the band is 40 meters *and* if the KPA100 is
not the latest design T/R switch it is entirely possible that there could be
a spurious response above the 40 meter band during the time it takes to do
the antenna tuning - this may cause the ATU to tune the antenna somewhere
above the 40 meter band.
There is also the possibility that RFC10 (on the back of the SO-239
jack) is coupling with the base K2 - and that condition is worse if the
shield is the older one with a wide notch above the SO-239 jack and no
solder lugs from the SO-239 jack to the top of the shield.  I am not saying
that the problem is restricted to 40 meters, only that it is more apparent
on 40 than on other bands.

If the KPA100 has the older red core toroids at L15 and L16, it should be
updated with the KPA100MDKT because that mod was created to address exactly
that problem.
If the shield needs updated, the KPA100SHLDKT is available.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 2:38 PM, ab2tc wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I can think of one other *possible* explanation, although far fetched. 
> If the K2 transmitter has excessive harmonics or parasitics, this 
> could
happen.
> The out of band energy is readily absorbed by the dummy load but not 
> by the tuned load presented by the LDG tuner. The antenna analyzer 
> should easily resolve this.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[will...@zendamateur.nl]

Ok Don and Knut,

Its getting better :-)

I tryed a antenne analyzer, gives me the same as my K2, so I think K2 is
fine.
The AT-100 ( just bought it second hand, has two antenna connectors wich I
can switch. Put a dummy on the other port then switched an tune the dummy 20
1.0 - 1 so looks ok
Did the same with connectors reversed so antenne 1 is antenne 2 again 20
1.0 - 1

But with the antenne it stil give me the same as my antenne analyzer.

Is this the tuner ??

William PE1BSB


-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens Don Wilhelm
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 21:04
Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

Knut and all,

I do agree with that *and* if the band is 40 meters *and* if the KPA100 is
not the latest design T/R switch it is entirely possible that there could be
a spurious response above the 40 meter band during the time it takes to do
the antenna tuning - this may cause the ATU to tune the antenna somewhere
above the 40 meter band.
There is also the possibility that RFC10 (on the back of the SO-239
jack) is coupling with the base K2 - and that condition is worse if the
shield is the older one with a wide notch above the SO-239 jack and no
solder lugs from the SO-239 jack to the top of the shield.  I am not saying
that the problem is restricted to 40 meters, only that it is more apparent
on 40 than on other bands.

If the KPA100 has the older red core toroids at L15 and L16, it should be
updated with the KPA100MDKT because that mod was created to address exactly
that problem.
If the shield needs updated, the KPA100SHLDKT is available.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 2:38 PM, ab2tc wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I can think of one other *possible* explanation, although far fetched. 
> If the K2 transmitter has excessive harmonics or parasitics, this could
happen.
> The out of band energy is readily absorbed by the dummy load but not 
> by the tuned load presented by the LDG tuner. The antenna analyzer 
> should easily resolve this.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[Don Wilhelm]

Knut and all,

I do agree with that *and* if the band is 40 meters *and* if the KPA100 
is not the latest design T/R switch it is entirely possible that there 
could be a spurious response above the 40 meter band during the time it 
takes to do the antenna tuning - this may cause the ATU to tune the 
antenna somewhere above the 40 meter band.
There is also the possibility that RFC10 (on the back of the SO-239 
jack) is coupling with the base K2 - and that condition is worse if the 
shield is the older one with a wide notch above the SO-239 jack and no 
solder lugs from the SO-239 jack to the top of the shield.  I am not 
saying that the problem is restricted to 40 meters, only that it is more 
apparent on 40 than on other bands.


If the KPA100 has the older red core toroids at L15 and L16, it should 
be updated with the KPA100MDKT because that mod was created to address 
exactly that problem.

If the shield needs updated, the KPA100SHLDKT is available.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 2:38 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi all,

I can think of one other *possible* explanation, although far fetched. If
the K2 transmitter has excessive harmonics or parasitics, this could happen.
The out of band energy is readily absorbed by the dummy load but not by the
tuned load presented by the LDG tuner. The antenna analyzer should easily
resolve this.




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Re: [Elecraft] NPOTA NP51 Activation (KX3 and K1)

[Detrick Merz]

Results are in!

Test #1: dummy load connected directly to the antenna analyzer
Result: 1:1 SWR

Test #2: dummy to PL259 barrel to coax to antenna analyzer
Result: 1:1 SWR

The coax ain't bad.

The "odd ball thingy" is an 84' "random wire" with a 17' counterpoise. The
use of coax was an attempt to separate our antennas a bit more than we had
done during FD, since we had experienced a bit of interference from each
other. No interference for the NPOTA activation so maybe the separation
helped something.

I think I (still) like that K1 almost as much as Kev likes his KX3.

-detrick
KI4STU

On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 11:52 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:

> Detrick (KI4STU) with his K1 and I with the KX3 took off work on Monday and
> headed up to Dickey Ridge on Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park
> (NP51). We were both on battery power. CW was the mode of choice. The
> antennas were end-fed - Detrick's some odd-ball thingy and mine an LNR
> EF-40/20 (no counterpoise). Basically the same setup we used on FD but
> trimmed down significantly for mobility and quick setup.
>
> We were able to activate NP51 with 12 CW QSOs in about 2 hours.
>
> There were some tricky parts.
>
> The end-fed thingy Detrick had would not tune until we swapped out the
> coax. The guess is either the original coax is bad or the length of the
> coax was contributing to the high SWR. Waiting to find out the results.
> Detrick normally runs the antenna directly to binding posts.
>
> Checking the weather in the morning it all looked clear. Then came the
> dangerous wind and hail alerts and it was all we could do to get everything
> back to the cars before the downpour. Weather changes quick!
>
> I uploaded the QSLs to LoTW and hope I did it right, creating a new
> location for the park. eQSL is all kinds of messed up but I'm losing my
> patience with that service anyway. I'm not sure if I should expect
> something back from the ARRL concerning the activation or just assume all
> went well.
>
> GNATS, GNATS and damn GNATS!
>
> Then we went to Spelunkers for some Cavern Burgers and all was good in the
> world again.
>
> I'm absolutely enjoying the KX3. My go-bag is a little Nikon camera bag
> containing the KX3 with side panels and cover, Begali Adventure paddles,
> mic (unused), EF-40/20 antenna, Sony in-ear phones, spool of mason line,
> short coax, mini-log and notepad, pen, pencil, 15Ah LiFePO4 (not used for
> this trip). There's also copy of my license in a pouch. It is freedom in a
> bag.
>
> Next trip... bug spray.
>
> To top off the good news, our new little crew - Barred Owl Radio Club
> (BORC) was just issued W4OWL. We named our group for the fledgling begging
> call that kept us away all night on FD (yep, we slept). You can find that
> wonderful sound of nature right here:
> https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Barred_Owl/sounds. Scroll on down to
> the bottom for pure listening e​​njoyment. If you don't get the impression
> of a spike being driven into your ears you don't have the volume high
> enough.
>
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[ab2tc]

Hi all,

I can think of one other *possible* explanation, although far fetched. If
the K2 transmitter has excessive harmonics or parasitics, this could happen.
The out of band energy is readily absorbed by the dummy load but not by the
tuned load presented by the LDG tuner. The antenna analyzer should easily
resolve this.

AB2TC - Knut



Don Wilhelm wrote
> William,
> 
> That indicates that either you have a bad coax between the K2 and the 
> tuner, or the tuner's SWR meter has a problem.
> 
> If you have an antenna analyzer, connect it to the same coax that you 
> connect to the K2 and see what it indicates.
> 
> It may be that the KPA100 wattmeter could stand some refinement, but 
> that would take some special dummy loads - I use a 25 ohm and a 100 ohm 
> dummy load to refine the setting of capacitor C1 - the SWR indication 
> should be the *same* for each of these loads if C1 is set to exactly the 
> null point.  That is more precise than finding the voltage null.
> After doing that adjustment, I set R27 to show SWR at the 2.0-1 point 
> and then set R26 to indicate the power while driving a 50 ohm dummy load 
> and an external wattmeter that I know is properly calibrated.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-automatic-tuner-tp7620433p7620440.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[Don Wilhelm]

William,

That indicates that either you have a bad coax between the K2 and the 
tuner, or the tuner's SWR meter has a problem.


If you have an antenna analyzer, connect it to the same coax that you 
connect to the K2 and see what it indicates.


It may be that the KPA100 wattmeter could stand some refinement, but 
that would take some special dummy loads - I use a 25 ohm and a 100 ohm 
dummy load to refine the setting of capacitor C1 - the SWR indication 
should be the *same* for each of these loads if C1 is set to exactly the 
null point.  That is more precise than finding the voltage null.
After doing that adjustment, I set R27 to show SWR at the 2.0-1 point 
and then set R26 to indicate the power while driving a 50 ohm dummy load 
and an external wattmeter that I know is properly calibrated.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 2:02 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:

When i just connect a 50 ohm dummy tot he K2 it says 20   1.0 - 1

So I think it is right calibrated :-)

Regards William

-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 19:50
Aan: will...@zendamateur.nl ;
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

William,

Thanks for that clarification.  Connect the KPA100 to a good dummy load and
do the wattmeter alignment and calibration as indicated in the
KPA100 manual page 48 - see the SWR Bridge Null Adjustment and also the
Power Calibration sections.
You must do the bridge null before attempting the Power Calibration.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 1:41 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:

Thanks Don fort he answer,

The display is ok

I just did not put every thing there

It says :  202.0  - 1

So I enderstand that as a swr of 2.0 ???



-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 19:27
Aan: will...@zendamateur.nl ;
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

William,

Are you reading the K2 display correctly when you do a TUNE?
Normally the K2 displays the power on the left and the SWR on the right.
The power is normally 20 watts and the SWR will be shown as 2 digits
(1.0 through 9.9).
In other words, you will see something like "20  1.0".

If the KPA100 wattmeter is not indicating properly, it may be that
diodes
D16 and D17 have become damaged, or it may just be that the wattmeter
needs to be balanced and calibrated.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 12:33 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:

Hi group,

Perhaps it's a silly question, but i don't understand something.

I have a K2 100 watt but I don't think any other set will make a

deferens.

the set is connected to a tuner (AT-100Pro LDG) and it tunes as far
as I can see ok.

But now what I notice, when I tune the tuner tunes to swr 1.1 so that

seems

to be ok, but my K2 gives me 2.01.

Does that mean my K2 sees a swr from2.0 whil my tuner says  it is 1.0 ??










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Re: [Elecraft] K-Pod questions (unanswered)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Wes:

Currently the K-Pod LEDs work as described. Functionality is being added to
the K-Pod that, as a mere "scribe" I don't have yet but have been asked to
include tidbits such as the LEDs being programmable. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes
Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2016 10:04 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K-Pod questions (unanswered)

I'm teetering on the fence about buying one of these or not. I've sent the
following directly to Elecraft but haven't received an answer. Perhaps
someone else can help.

The K-Pod manual mentions LEDs D1-D4 are programmable then goes on to say
that
D1-D3 are used already.  Please clarify and tell me how one would program
them.

Also there are Aux outputs mentioned, but only in passing.  What is the How,
What, Where..."

The Shipping Status page is out of date. How long ARO is shipping?

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[will...@zendamateur.nl]

When i just connect a 50 ohm dummy tot he K2 it says 20   1.0 - 1

So I think it is right calibrated :-)

Regards William

-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com] 
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 19:50
Aan: will...@zendamateur.nl ;
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

William,

Thanks for that clarification.  Connect the KPA100 to a good dummy load and
do the wattmeter alignment and calibration as indicated in the
KPA100 manual page 48 - see the SWR Bridge Null Adjustment and also the
Power Calibration sections.
You must do the bridge null before attempting the Power Calibration.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 1:41 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:
> Thanks Don fort he answer,
>
> The display is ok
>
> I just did not put every thing there
>
> It says :  202.0  - 1
>
> So I enderstand that as a swr of 2.0 ???
>
>
>
> -Oorspronkelijk bericht-
> Van: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
> Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 19:27
> Aan: will...@zendamateur.nl ; 
> Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner
>
> William,
>
> Are you reading the K2 display correctly when you do a TUNE?
> Normally the K2 displays the power on the left and the SWR on the right.
> The power is normally 20 watts and the SWR will be shown as 2 digits
> (1.0 through 9.9).
> In other words, you will see something like "20  1.0".
>
> If the KPA100 wattmeter is not indicating properly, it may be that 
> diodes
> D16 and D17 have become damaged, or it may just be that the wattmeter 
> needs to be balanced and calibrated.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/20/2016 12:33 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:
>> Hi group,
>>
>> Perhaps it's a silly question, but i don't understand something.
>>
>>I have a K2 100 watt but I don't think any other set will make a
> deferens.
>> the set is connected to a tuner (AT-100Pro LDG) and it tunes as far 
>> as I can see ok.
>>
>> But now what I notice, when I tune the tuner tunes to swr 1.1 so that
> seems
>> to be ok, but my K2 gives me 2.01.
>>
>> Does that mean my K2 sees a swr from2.0 whil my tuner says  it is 1.0 ??
>>
>
>
>



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[Don Wilhelm]

William,

Thanks for that clarification.  Connect the KPA100 to a good dummy load 
and do the wattmeter alignment and calibration as indicated in the 
KPA100 manual page 48 - see the SWR Bridge Null Adjustment and also the 
Power Calibration sections.

You must do the bridge null before attempting the Power Calibration.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 1:41 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:

Thanks Don fort he answer,

The display is ok

I just did not put every thing there

It says :  202.0  - 1

So I enderstand that as a swr of 2.0 ???



-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 19:27
Aan: will...@zendamateur.nl ;
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

William,

Are you reading the K2 display correctly when you do a TUNE?
Normally the K2 displays the power on the left and the SWR on the right.
The power is normally 20 watts and the SWR will be shown as 2 digits
(1.0 through 9.9).
In other words, you will see something like "20  1.0".

If the KPA100 wattmeter is not indicating properly, it may be that diodes
D16 and D17 have become damaged, or it may just be that the wattmeter needs
to be balanced and calibrated.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 12:33 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:

Hi group,

Perhaps it's a silly question, but i don't understand something.

   I have a K2 100 watt but I don't think any other set will make a

deferens.

the set is connected to a tuner (AT-100Pro LDG) and it tunes as far as
I can see ok.

But now what I notice, when I tune the tuner tunes to swr 1.1 so that

seems

to be ok, but my K2 gives me 2.01.

Does that mean my K2 sees a swr from2.0 whil my tuner says  it is 1.0 ??







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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[will...@zendamateur.nl]

Thanks Don fort he answer, 

The display is ok

I just did not put every thing there

It says :  202.0  - 1

So I enderstand that as a swr of 2.0 ???



-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com] 
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 19:27
Aan: will...@zendamateur.nl ;
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

William,

Are you reading the K2 display correctly when you do a TUNE?
Normally the K2 displays the power on the left and the SWR on the right.
The power is normally 20 watts and the SWR will be shown as 2 digits
(1.0 through 9.9).
In other words, you will see something like "20  1.0".

If the KPA100 wattmeter is not indicating properly, it may be that diodes
D16 and D17 have become damaged, or it may just be that the wattmeter needs
to be balanced and calibrated.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 12:33 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:
> Hi group,
>
> Perhaps it's a silly question, but i don't understand something.
>
>   I have a K2 100 watt but I don't think any other set will make a
deferens.
> the set is connected to a tuner (AT-100Pro LDG) and it tunes as far as 
> I can see ok.
>
> But now what I notice, when I tune the tuner tunes to swr 1.1 so that
seems
> to be ok, but my K2 gives me 2.01.
>
> Does that mean my K2 sees a swr from2.0 whil my tuner says  it is 1.0 ??
>



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[Don Wilhelm]

William,

Are you reading the K2 display correctly when you do a TUNE?
Normally the K2 displays the power on the left and the SWR on the right.
The power is normally 20 watts and the SWR will be shown as 2 digits 
(1.0 through 9.9).

In other words, you will see something like "20  1.0".

If the KPA100 wattmeter is not indicating properly, it may be that 
diodes D16 and D17 have become damaged, or it may just be that the 
wattmeter needs to be balanced and calibrated.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2016 12:33 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl wrote:

Hi group,

Perhaps it's a silly question, but i don't understand something.

  I have a K2 100 watt but I don't think any other set will make a deferens.
the set is connected to a tuner (AT-100Pro LDG) and it tunes as far as I can
see ok.

But now what I notice, when I tune the tuner tunes to swr 1.1 so that seems
to be ok, but my K2 gives me 2.01.

Does that mean my K2 sees a swr from2.0 whil my tuner says  it is 1.0 ??



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[Elecraft] FS: K3/100 & P3 (Update)

[Bill Coleman]

Elecraft K3/100 with KAT3A, 2.7kHz filter, 700Hz filter (INRAD), 400Hz 
filter, PR6 preamp, KSYNTH3A upgrade. Elecraft P3 Panadapter with SVGA 
and TXMON (2KW sensor). High Serial numbers (K3:86xx, P3:25xx). No 
scratches, non-smoker. Package deal only, 7/20: PRICE REDUCED asking 
$3500 for both, plus shipping & insurance from 13850.   THX Bill  N2BC

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[Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner

[will...@zendamateur.nl]

Hi group, 

 

Perhaps it's a silly question, but i don't understand something.

 

I have a K2 100 watt but I don't think any other set will make a deferens.

the set is connected to a tuner (AT-100Pro LDG) and it tunes as far as I can
see ok.

But now what I notice, when I tune the tuner tunes to swr 1.1 so that seems
to be ok, but my K2 gives me 2.01.

 

Does that mean my K2 sees a swr from2.0 whil my tuner says  it is 1.0 ??

 

I just don't understand this so perhaps somebody can explane.

 

Regards William PE1BSB

 

K2 

K3 

P3

KX3

 

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[Elecraft] Kx2 with wspr program

[Terry Lewis]

Hi,
I have tried but been unsuccessful with getting wspr to work with my kx2.
I'm on the right com port (4) it's the only one I can see.
Tried the k3 and k2 from the wspr settings drop down menu, set the rate to the 
same as radio 4800. 
Has anyone got their kx2 working and if so could you let me know what kind of 
settings or what to sort, I have used it with my ts590s no problem but the kx2 
just doesn't want to run.
I have Realtek sound card, win7, using the usb cable that was supplied with the 
radio.

Thanks for your help,
Regards,
Terry. MW0ZUS
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Re: [Elecraft] Failed K3 Firmware update DSP1

[Drew AF2Z]

I have approx 35 firmware zips from 2.10 through 5.01. This isn't the 
complete set; only the ones for which I was interested in upgrading some 
feature on my K3. You can have them if you want but as far as I know 
installing intermediate revisions is not required.


73,
Drew
AF2Z



On 07/20/16 00:08, Matthew Lawson wrote:

Well, Howard was able to send me FW 2.19 and I had a successful flash to
the K3.

Now I tried to jumped from version 2.19 to 5.38, is there a bug in jumping
this far? Is there a DSP hardware revision that may have an issue with
current version of firmware (older radio, 1st gen, etc...?)???

Anyways my rig is back from being a brick, and is working again. YEAH!!!

An observation on this, I accidentally tried to push just the DSP1 Firmware
from 2.19 with 5.38 MCU still installed but it would fail, saw my error and
corrected it and had a successfully flash when the 2.19 MCU was installed
first. This made me wonder if this was part of the problem with the update.
Is there some sort of version check with the DSP1 to MCU?

I am wanting to try an incremental update from 2.19, but older firmware is
not published.

Wanted to keep the list updated on whats been happening and thank you for
all your support in this.

73

*Matthew Lawson*
*KC7EQO*
*442.100 + 100 Hz PL Blyn Mt Repeater*





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[Elecraft] NPOTA NP51 Activation (KX3 and K1)

[Kevin - K4VD]

Detrick (KI4STU) with his K1 and I with the KX3 took off work on Monday and
headed up to Dickey Ridge on Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park
(NP51). We were both on battery power. CW was the mode of choice. The
antennas were end-fed - Detrick's some odd-ball thingy and mine an LNR
EF-40/20 (no counterpoise). Basically the same setup we used on FD but
trimmed down significantly for mobility and quick setup.

We were able to activate NP51 with 12 CW QSOs in about 2 hours.

There were some tricky parts.

The end-fed thingy Detrick had would not tune until we swapped out the
coax. The guess is either the original coax is bad or the length of the
coax was contributing to the high SWR. Waiting to find out the results.
Detrick normally runs the antenna directly to binding posts.

Checking the weather in the morning it all looked clear. Then came the
dangerous wind and hail alerts and it was all we could do to get everything
back to the cars before the downpour. Weather changes quick!

I uploaded the QSLs to LoTW and hope I did it right, creating a new
location for the park. eQSL is all kinds of messed up but I'm losing my
patience with that service anyway. I'm not sure if I should expect
something back from the ARRL concerning the activation or just assume all
went well.

GNATS, GNATS and damn GNATS!

Then we went to Spelunkers for some Cavern Burgers and all was good in the
world again.

I'm absolutely enjoying the KX3. My go-bag is a little Nikon camera bag
containing the KX3 with side panels and cover, Begali Adventure paddles,
mic (unused), EF-40/20 antenna, Sony in-ear phones, spool of mason line,
short coax, mini-log and notepad, pen, pencil, 15Ah LiFePO4 (not used for
this trip). There's also copy of my license in a pouch. It is freedom in a
bag.

Next trip... bug spray.

To top off the good news, our new little crew - Barred Owl Radio Club
(BORC) was just issued W4OWL. We named our group for the fledgling begging
call that kept us away all night on FD (yep, we slept). You can find that
wonderful sound of nature right here:
https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Barred_Owl/sounds. Scroll on down to
the bottom for pure listening e​​njoyment. If you don't get the impression
of a spike being driven into your ears you don't have the volume high
enough.

73,
Kev K4VD
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[Elecraft] K-Pod D1-D4 programming

[K6CTA via Elecraft]

I have looked through the K-POD manual and the programmers guide and find 
nothing about programming the D1-D4 LEDs on the pod. Did I miss it? If not, how 
do I do this? It would be handy to assign the lights to some functions!

Thanks!

73,
Ed K6CTA

Sent from my iPhone



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Tom Azlin W7SUA]

Hi Jim,

On 7/19/2016 12:51 PM, Jim Brown wrote:


Remember that whether or not you hear more noise with the system running
will depend on how much OTHER noise there is in your neighborhood. Some
(many?) of us have background noise in the range of S8, others in the
range of S3. The difference is 25 dB.


Good point. When not in Monsoon season my K3 S meter is around S2 with 
my 160 meter inverted V up about 50 ft with about 150 ft of RG8 type 
coax. Right now jumps up much higher during static crashes but storms 
all around us. We live in a rural area long way from high voltage power 
lines and perhaps from plasma TVs and electric fences.



It's worth looking for a quiet MPPT charge regulator. Just like any
other electronics that generate or use square waves, it can be done well
or it can be done badly. Since badly is cheaper, and done well requires
more technical design expertise, badly is by far the most common. The
Genasun regulators are pretty quiet, but so far, they only make units
for much smaller systems.


I'll keep looking for quiet MPPT charge controllers. My battery bank is 
1200 amp-hr at 12 volts. Thanks!


73, tom w7sua



73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K POD macros

['DGB']

I use some small yellow labels printed off a Brother P-Touch alongside 
each button. Also use those labels on all the wires in my wireless 
station here! ;-)


73 Dwight NS9I


On 7/20/2016 7:02 AM, Jeff Griffin wrote:

Thanks to all for the macro help. Like a good boy I found the time to read
more slowly through the programmers reference and all is now well. Only
problem I have now is trying to remember what macro is associated with what
button, and is it tap or hold???

73 Jeff kb2m


I'm happily writing some macros for my K Pod and not finding a way to access
front panel controls like M1. Is there a way to access M1 from the K POD?
Also does anyone have a macro to share that emulates a band select function?
Thanks.

  


73 Jeff kb2m


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K POD macros

[Jeff Griffin]

Thanks to all for the macro help. Like a good boy I found the time to read
more slowly through the programmers reference and all is now well. Only
problem I have now is trying to remember what macro is associated with what
button, and is it tap or hold???  

73 Jeff kb2m


I'm happily writing some macros for my K Pod and not finding a way to access
front panel controls like M1. Is there a way to access M1 from the K POD?
Also does anyone have a macro to share that emulates a band select function?
Thanks.

 

73 Jeff kb2m


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Elecraft mailing list
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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