Re: [Elecraft] k4D using remotely

[Ed Gray W0SD via Elecraft]

I subscribe to the K4 groups.io   Thanks so much!

Ed W0SD

On 5/23/2023 12:29 PM, Lou Laderman wrote:
Unfortunately not yet. For the remote software, here’s part of a post 
on the K4 group on groups.io from a Q with Eric at Dayton:


Key points from Eric:


IP audio is working, expect summer release (not in beta yet) which 
leads to:



Remote from another K4 or K4/0; early summer (first)


VK4 release, early summer (small fee), he only mentions Windows (any 
flavor, tablet or...) WITH panadapter (working now at the booth)



K4/0 (front panel, p/s, I/o, internet) summer; waiting for critical 
components (parts company bought, handoff stumble, it's gonna happen); 
local audio, local keyer, i/o for logging (etc); it will support an 
internal battery (and charger); will allow plug in internet for wifi



encrypted end to end paths (password key protected) for audio and K4/0 
and K4(D) remote ops data path


73, Lou W0FK

Lou Laderman
(314) 308-4363
Sent from my mobile device

On May 23, 2023, at 12:26 PM, Ed Gray W0SD via Elecraft 
 wrote:


I have a question on using my K4D at my home QTH in SD from AZ as a 
snowbird?  If I buy a second K4D can I access/control/use my K4D from 
AZ at my home QTH over the internet.  I want to do Digital, CW and SSB.


I also read about "VK4".  What is the status of this software?

Thanks,

Ed W0SD


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[Elecraft] k4D using remotely

[Ed Gray W0SD via Elecraft]

I have a question on using my K4D at my home QTH in SD from AZ as a 
snowbird?  If I buy a second K4D can I access/control/use my K4D from AZ 
at my home QTH over the internet.  I want to do Digital, CW and SSB.


I also read about "VK4".  What is the status of this software?

Thanks,

Ed W0SD


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Re: [Elecraft] Any new info on K3/K3S updates availability?

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I was told by Madelyn on 10-22-2021 4-6 months.  The problem is getting 
parts.


I paid for mine! .

Ed W0SD

On 11/30/2021 8:21 AM, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
I'm still hoping for a KIO3BUPKT for my K-3, but nothing heard since, 
I think, September - still TBD on the web site.



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[Elecraft] For Sale 6M pre-amp K3PR6

[Ed Gray W0SD]

For Sale: Barely used K3PR6 6m Pre-amp.  In original box.  $65.00 
includes shipping in USA. Has manual and double male BNC connectors and 
power cord.


Ed W0SD

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[Elecraft] For Sale 6M pre-amp K3PR6

[Ed Gray W0SD]

For Sale: Barely used K3PR6 6m Pre-amp.  In original box.  $65.00 
includes shipping in USA. Has manual and double male BNC connectors and 
power cord.


Ed W0SD


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[Elecraft] K4 Second RX and VHF

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I keep trying to find a picture for months of the inside of the K4 but I 
can not find one so I give up and will ask?  How is the second RX 
handled mechanically.  I just hate the box in the K3S for the second 
RX.  What a pain as you have to take it out to do things with the 
filters and all the cabling and routing to me is not good.  I hope this 
is all gone in the K4.


Secondly how will VHF be handled in the K4?  Again I am not a big fan of 
the cabling involved in the K3S for VHF.  A plug is computer type slot, 
etc. sure seems like it would be better.


Ed W0SD


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan speeds and fan noise

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I have a KPA-1500  #171 and when I set the fans at 1 the air is being 
pulled from the back by only the middle fan on  the back. The air is 
exiting out the top cover, front, right.  This exit area is just a 
little over 5" x 8".  I feel a good deal of air coming out the top 
evenly distributed over the 5" x 8" area.


Set at position 2, 3, 4 and 5 all three fans run and the fan speed is 
increased with each setting.  2 is IMHO is not very noisy, 3 is more 
noise than I like if ran continuously. Sporadically would be OK assuming 
it would not be needed a lot. 4 and especially 5 are noisy.  However I 
would think you would only need 4 or 5 with lots of TX in RTTY or WSJT 
modes so one would not need to be concerned about mic pick up however I 
will say 4 and 5 are not pleasant to listen to.  More to be learned by 
me but I suspect letting the fan be regulated by the temperature rather 
than a fixed setting may be the way to go for lots of TX in RTTY or WSJT.


Anyway the air comes in the back and goes out the top cover on the KPA-1500.

Ed W0SD



On 5/21/2018 9:13 AM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

>From the KPA500 kit build manual:

"If airflow arrows are visible on the fan housing, they will show that air will be 
blown out of the back of the KPA500."


It was a bit surprising to me that the KPA500 fan airflow is the opposite of 
natural convective flow but I accepted that was the intended design.  My KPA500 
fan does pull air in the top and exhaust it out of the back.


"They are running on a 19-volt supply at a slow but effective cooling speed and are 
very quiet (drawing air upward)."


Do the KPA1500 fans push air into the box? If so, why doesn't the KPA500 fan do 
that. If the KPA1500 fans pull out of the box why would it be appropriate to 
use an additional fan that opposes this airflow?


73,

Andy k3wyc
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[Elecraft] Report on KPA-1500 #171 driving with a K3S

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Preliminary comments subject to learning more and operator error so FWIW.

First a few of the good things I will comment on which are just of few 
of the many good things.


KPA-1500 drives really easily.  I don't come close to needing 50 watts 
even on 10M and 6M to get 1500 watts out.  I have confirmed this is true 
using a LP-100A watt meter in addition the KPA-1500 LCD reading and LED 
reading.


Fan noise seems plenty low enough.  Of course only on SSB is it going to 
be picked up by the Microphone.  The  highest fan setting will obviously 
be on RTTY.  Using it on SSB I get good reports, ie low back ground 
noise and I see very little power out on the watt meters when not 
talking.  The true test will be in serious contest efforts but it seems 
to be fine to me.  The RF deck fan moves a lot of air in position 1 or 2


The power cord is nice and long for the 240 vac so between it and the DC 
voltage cable being reasonably long it gave me a lot of flexibility.


Instant on, instant power, no tuning, instant band changing just like 
the KPA-500. It will really be nice for higher power when needed plus I 
can use it from AZ in the winter time.


Nice having the PA temperature showing on the LCD.  When I seen 0A on 
the LCD I wondered if it was an error code.  I could not find it in the 
manual although later I did.  Once I put some power out ti was obviously 
amps!


BTW the PF1 macro I had set up in the K3S to turn the KPA500 on and of 
remotely works with the KPA-1500.  It will be pretty amazing to  operate 
the KPA-1500 at high power remotely when needed.


Basically as advertised, well worth the money IMHO.  With the devices in 
it and if the protective circuity works it should last a long, long time.


Some Concerns

SWR LED indicator flaky.(Been reported and I am sure will be fixed with 
firmware)


On SSB key up  there is sometimes power out without talking  In fact 
sometimes 200-300 watts on the LED.  Way. less on the LP-100A watt 
meter so like the SWR LED something seems messed up. However once I say 
something it is much better so I don't think is is the microphone 
picking things up. By much better maybe 1 or 2 watts.   I don't use 
ALC.    More to be learned here but this is what I  believe I see here 
on some on the air checks.


Have what appears to be RF getting into the LCD meter on 12M on CW but 
very little on SSB.  No problem with this on any other bands.  If I turn 
the power down to about 800 watts out on CW it goes away. Things are 
missing and scrambled on the LCD read out. SWR/Reflected power is low on 
12M.  About 1.3 to 1.  It works OK looking at the Utility program so it 
just seems to be RF messing up the LCD meter.


ATU is great for stations with one antenna per band or less or even for 
more than one antenna such as for DXing.  It does not do the job for 
contesting with multiple antenna's per band if they have some SWR.  It 
is not a problem if the SWR is low then you can just use BYP   Wayne 
says this will eventually be addressed via firmware.  Until that happens 
I need to do some antenna work outside so I have low SWR for contesting 
with multiple antenna's per band.  This is always better anyway.  The 
ATU will retune on the "FLY" but to me does not seem useable for contest 
switching of antenna's, way to slow,  if there are significant SWR 
differences.   For me It will depend on the firmware fixes and how they 
are implemented.  My solution will be to do some antenna work this 
summer..  I could get by with tube type amplifiers but with SS not so much!


Ed W0SD




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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 #171 delivered

[Ed Gray W0SD]

# 171 was delivered today.  It was ordered on August 26th at 6:53 PDT, 
paid in full


Ed W0SD

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Order

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I got a call today checking my address and that my KPA-1500 would be shipped.  
Later today I get an e-mail confirming that my order will be shipped UPS.
Following is the original order information.  I paid for it up front so I get 
free shipping.  I will post when it arrives and the S/N #  Five day shipping 
estimate.

order # : 110521
Email   :w...@triotel.net
Order Date  : 8/26/2017 8:54:00 AM
Order Status: Approved, Pending Shipping
Payment Status  : Payment information received.

Ed W0SD

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Re: [Elecraft] Ordered KPA1500 on 8/30

[Ed Gray W0SD]

My Invoice is dated 8/29/2017 for the full amount.  I am sure we are all 
curious what the invoice date is of those being shipped with admittedly 
the warning that is not an absolute but it would give us that ordered 
some clues.


Thanks!

Ed W0SD


On 2/7/2018 7:47 PM, W1PEF wrote:

Just FYI ordered on 8/30 but over charged. Deposit/adjustment on 9/5 with 
apology from Elecraft. No call here yet for the KPA1500.
Paul - W1PEF

Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] K3S macro

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Is there a K3S macro to set the radio to USB?  I know about BR0; BR1; 
BR2; and BR3;


Ed W0SD

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[Elecraft] KIO3 Board

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I now have a KIO3 board!  Thanks


I have a K3 #3423 and I need a KIO3 audio board.  I don't want to go to 
the KIO3B stuff.  Does anyone have one I could buy?

You can contact me off list.

Ed W0SD
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[Elecraft] KIO3 Board

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I have a K3 #3423 and I need a KIO3 audio board.  I don't want to go to 
the KIO3B stuff.  Does anyone have one I could buy?

You can contact me off list.

Ed W0SD
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Re: [Elecraft] KP6 pre-amp for sale

[Ed Gray W0SD]

The KP6  pre-amp  has been sold.

On 11/16/2015 10:53 PM, Ed Gray W0SD wrote:
Used KP6 pre-amp for sale, works perfectly but selling as I am getting 
a K3S.  I want $80.00 Paypal and I will pay the shipping. Sold as is 
but leaves my place working.


Ed W0SD


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[Elecraft] KP6 pre-amp for sale

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Used KP6 pre-amp for sale, works perfectly but selling as I am getting a 
K3S.  I want $80.00 Paypal and I will pay the shipping. Sold as is but 
leaves my place working.


Ed W0SD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/0 Forum?

[Ed Gray W0SD]

The lack of a good manual and no diagram for the K3/0 is way..below 
the normal Elecraft standards.  It is especially bad if in addition to 
remote rig you sometimes want to use the USB cable and remote hams.  
There just is no documentation as to what is going on!


Ed W0SD

On 10/11/2015 3:30 PM, David Christ wrote:

I don’t know about a separate forum, but I am going to start looking at a 
remote installation for when we move into a retirement community and will want 
to know where the information is to be found.

David K0LUM



On Oct 11, 2015, at 3:16 PM, jlbates4  wrote:

I was wondering why the K3/0 or K3/Remote Ops doesn't have a dedicated forum.
Just a thought...

The reason I ask is that I would really like a better manual for the K3/0.
I have a lot of questions - simple things, like how do I control the LCD
display or adjust the LED brightness?  Is there a "local" menu system that
allows for K3/0 configuration?

73 de K8OI






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Re: [Elecraft] K3/0 Forum?

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I don't want another forum I just want decent documentation on the K3/0 
mini in regards to the remotehams software. http://www.remotehams.com


I have two remote rig set ups.  I have used them for several years from 
many locations back to my home station.  I have used them with the 
computer(TRX manager) I have used them with another K3 and the K3/0 
Mini.  I have used them on SSB, CW, RTTY, Digital.  I have used them 
remotely with Writelog and done remote contesting. I of course have made 
a lot of DX contacts remotely.


You can get help from the Remote Rig forum and the company.  You can 
also get help from Elecraft, the e-mails and the K3/0 Mini manual for 
using the RRC boxes so it is not bad.  I don't have any big problems 
with the K3/0 Mini and the Remote rig boxes although there are some 
things missing in the documentation by both companies.


What I am talking about is using the K3/0 mini for 
http://www.remotehams.com/ (remotehams)


For example do people know there are several jumpers inside the K3/0 
Mini that are totally undocumented in the manual or anyplace else I can 
find?  Do people know how to get the K3/0 Mini apart?  It is not sold as 
a kit.  There is more but I will leave it at that.


The bottom line is the K3/0 Mini manual in regards to remote hams is 
"weak"!  It should at least have a diagram or reference to a diagram on 
line. We are not dealing with another hardware product here.  We are 
dealing with software that if you go to the site says sponsored by Elecraft.


I should know better than to make a post but I thought I might be able 
to get some help for other K3/0 Mini owners or future owners for at 
least a schematic  but mainly all I read is defense of the status quo.  
I am QRT on this subject.   I will talk to Elecraft support tomorrow.


73

Ed W0SD


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[Elecraft] Solar Controller Question

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I have a MPPT controller and they produce a lot of radio interference.  
From what I understand PWM also cause radio interference.  I believe 
that the older diversion controllers are quiet.  Normally they would 
waste a lot of energy but if one were running enough equipment so the 
battery was being drained faster than it was being charged I assume 
there would not be much energy waste.


My question is those of you who operate with a fairly good size panel 
and need a solar controller what do you use that produces no radio 
interference.  I am looking at what would be set up for a RV or a good 
sized boat or a day or two portable operation for something like the US 
Island QSO party coming up.  We would want to run 100 watts with the K3.


This would be a 12 vdc system with something in the range of 100-140 
watt panel.  Probably two 6 vdc deep cycle batteries.


Ed W0SD


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[Elecraft] K3 Remotely Program CW messages

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Can you program the CW messages in the K3 remotely? If so how?  I can't 
figure out a way to do it!


Thanks,

Ed W0SD
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Re: [Elecraft] Filters

[Ed Gray W0SD]

We had good success this week end in the ARRL RTTY RU with the 500 hz 
roofing filter and a DSP setting of 300 hz most of the time.  At times 
we went to 250 hz. and used the 250 hz roofing filter when the going 
really got tough. We are talking about a serious effort to win # 1 which 
we have done in the past but most years we are second or third multi-op.

You really did not say if it is for RTTY general contacts, chasing DX or 
contesting? That is the key question!  If it is the first two then a 500 
hz roofing filter and and use the DSP to narrow down more when wanted 
would be all you need.  The 500 hz with DSP would be fine for CW as well.

If you want to contest on CW and RTTY then adding the 250 hz  roofing 
filter is worth having.  For CW if you want the ultimate then also 
adding the 200 khz roofing is great for contest CW and will work in a 
huge pileup on RTTY even though it rolls off the edges.  We did use it a 
fair amount this week end.  If you are not seriously into CW contesting 
but want to do some serious RTTY contesting the most you need it the 250 
hz roofing filter.

It is far two early to say but we did not seem to be able to see an 
advantage to the Dual PB but like I say we tried it some and could see 
no improvement and a couple of times we thought we seen it was worse so 
we quit using it.  Howeverthis was a quick gut feeling decision made in 
the midst of the competition so we may ultimately find it is OK.  Future 
firmware updates may make it more effective.

Using two K3's in some serious contest efforts this season starting with 
the IARU with a number of top 10 finishes according to unofficial 
results I have to back up what has been said on the users group many 
times and that is IF you are not in some very serious and I mean 
serious contest efforts with extreme crowding and big signals there is 
ABSOLUTELY no need to spend a lot of money on filters!!!  One for SSB, 
the one that comes with the radio is excellent and a 500 hz roofing 
filter for CW and RTTY is absolutely all you need and use the DSP! I can 
guarantee this to be true!  I am of course assuming you don't want to do 
FM and AM.

Ed W0SD

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[Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

[Ed Gray W0SD]

For those now or in the future wanting to setup the PK-232 with the K3
using FSK here is the information.  I would think you could do this very
similarly for the Hal and  other TNC'S.  Of course the specific wiring 
would be different but the same general hook up should work.  This set 
up does not use the computer sound card at all.


First you need a software program to control the PK-232 or the TNC you
are going to use.  I used Writelog but there are other software programs
that will work.

The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your 
computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case Writelog. 
That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer.  There is 
absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card.


The K3 should be set to FSK D, see page 31 of the K3 manual revision D1.
Next you should be sure your software program is set up for the same
tone and shift that you have the K3 set to.  On the K3 activate pitch
and set it accordingly.  Most common would be 2125-170 which is what I
have Writelog set at.

From the K3 run an audio line from the line out to the Radio 1 or Radio
2 RX input on the PK-232.  This jack is hooked respectively to the same 
place as J4 or J6  which is the 5 pin flat connector.  I would suggest 
using Radio 1 and running an audio cable from the K3 line out to J3 
which is the Radio 1 RX input.  The K3 end is a sterio plug and the 
PK-232 is a mono plug. On the K3  go ahead and use a stereo cable and 
plug it into the K3 line out.  On the PK-232 end of this cable cut off 
the stereo plug and solder on a mono plug.  The tip from the stereo plug 
should be hooked to the tip of the mono plug which will be the left 
channel.  This will be the K3 audio.  The ring(one next to the tip) 
would be the SUB so just leave it unhooked and hook the barrel from the 
stereo plug to  the ground of the mono plug.  Go to the K3 config:Line 
out.  I set it for about about 25.  Remember the K3 manual is talking 
about sound card input when they mention 10 and here we are talking 
about input into the PK-232. The PK-232 manual says to have at least 200 
mv RMS of receive audio. Using my scope and then calculating RMS I came 
up with the setting of 25 to get 200 mv RMS.  It is better to be a 
little low than too high so you don't have distortion.


For FSK transmit you need to hook the PK-232 FSK keying which is pin 1
of the DIN plug J7 to Pin 1 FSK Input of the K3 accessory plug.  You
hook the ground, Pin 2 of J7 to Pin 5 of the K3 accessory plug. J7 on
the back of the PK-232 is labeled so that is easy.  The K3 accessory 
jack information is on page 18 of the K3 manual revision D1.


Be sure and note that the picture you are looking at in the K3 manual of
the accessory jack is the radio pin out and not the plug on the cable
you are making so be careful to use the correct pins. I just took a
Video cable and cut the female connector off and used the appropriate
wires to hook to the PK-232. The extra wires can be folded back and cut
to different lengths and heat shrink tubing put over them so no wires
can short to each other.

From J4 on the PK-232 which is the 5 pin flat connector hook up the PTT
line Pin 5 to the K3 accessory plug pin 4.  This should complete the FSK 
setup for the K3 with the PK-232.


Ed W0SD




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Don,
http://pinouts.ws/db15-vga-pinout.html  shows the pin out and I don't 
see any pins connected together unless the grounds are common.  I did 
check  a lot of pins with the DMM but I did not find any in common but I 
did not check each and everyone.  I will do that.  Anyway your point is 
well taken as running 3 wires as PTT is also required makes more sense 
than having all the extra although the molded plug is nice for reliability.


Ed W0SD

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ed,

I would highly recommend that you use a bare 15 pin connector rather 
than a video cable.  There are only 2 wires required, FSK IN and Ground.
The video cables (cut off defunct monitors) that I have encountered have 
several pins connected together which will tie together those pins on 
the K3 ACC connector - can create some operational anomalies.
I don't recall which pins are tied together, but the standard video 
cable pinout should be available somewhere on the internet, and Google 
can find it easily.


73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

[Ed Gray W0SD]

After reading the various posts on the K3 ACC DB15 it seems to be much 
better practice to use Cat cable or some twisted pair wire and solder to 
a bare DB15 as Don and others have suggested so I have ordered some 
tonight.  The best source I found was L-COMM. I have added this for 
those doing a search for this topic will see this excellent suggestion 
and can make an informed decision.


Thanks, Don and others!

Ed W0SD

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Rich,

I have read Don AA5AU discussion on this and this is the next thing to 
do now that I have my two K3's wired up for FSK RTTY.  I can do this as 
part of the process in getting ready for the ARRL RTTY Roundup.  I have 
a 24 inch LCD monitor screen so hopefully I can find room. Thanks for 
the excellent suggestion and information.



Richard Ferch wrote:

Ed Gray said:

The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your 
computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case Writelog. 
That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer.  There is 
absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card.


Actually, if you want the best of both worlds you can run an audio cable
between the PK-232 or the radio and the computer's sound card line in jack,
and use MMTTY as a second decoder. If you have room on your computer
monitor's screen, you can watch both decoders (PK-232 and MMTTY) running in
parallel - sometimes one copies when the other doesn't. I haven't done this
with the K3 yet, but I have used this trick with other radios. You can
either use a Y-connector at the radio or the PK-232, or if you connect the
radio's line out to the PK-232's 5-pin connector (J4), you can connect a
cable between the PK-232's phone jack (J3) and the sound card (the audio
inputs on J3 and J4 are connected directly together, so in effect there is a
Y-connector inside the PK-232).

In addition to giving you two decoders, this also lets you use MMTTY's
crossed-ellipse X-Y tuning display, which you may prefer to the PK-232's LED
tuning indicator. You can configure the MMTTY X-Y display to rotate in the
same direction as the radio's tuning knob, which seems to simplify the
hand-eye coordination process while tuning in signals.

73,
Rich VE3KI

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Question re K3 diversity reception

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Wayne,

What about Snow static on the main antenna and danger to the rcv?  It is 
fairly high voltage and I assume not much current? I had a bunch during 
the 10 meter contest.  Those of us in the north country hear it snapping 
in the antenna switch quite regularly if not grounded during the winter 
time.  I have never had trouble with previous radios but wondered since 
I have read comments about induced power from a passing thunder storm so 
in these cases you should unhook the K3.


Ed W0SD



wayne burdick wrote:

Jerry Flanders wrote:

At what approx. RF voltage level sent back into the rx from the second 
antenna do we need to worry about additional protection like external 
switching or shorting?


The short answer is: the voltage resulting from input power high enough 
to trigger the COR (probably 0.5 to 2 W in most cases). This will vary 
widely because the impedance of the sub's antenna on the *transmit* band 
may be totally different from its Z on the sub's receive band. At very 
high impedances, strays from the coax and the COR circuitry itself come 
into play. If you use the KAT3's non-TX antenna as the sub's AUX source, 
the small amount of leakage between ANT1 and ANT2 can also affect the 
COR trigger level; this will depend on the load Z and will vary from 
band to band.


Also, what do I hear when the COR activates? What sound? Is this a 
reed relay?


You'll hear about the same thing you hear when you switch from CW to SSB 
mode (this throws a relay on the KREF3 module), except it will follow 
the keying. It's not a reed relay, but it is small, and rated for very 
long mechanical life. Still, I recommend not pushing it. If you hear it, 
you should improve the antenna isolation on that band.


I operate SO2R and occasionally need to measure to verify safe RF 
level into the second rig and would also like use my 2nd K3 
(synch-tuned) for diversity rx while tx'ing on 1st K3. An actual RF 
voltage level I can use as a measurable limit would be a very useful 
parameter.


What I mentioned above is the best I can give you. If you can keep it to 
10 Vpp or less, I think you'll be OK, but I'd still advise testing 
things before you operate in a contest.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] K3 10 meter contest

[Ed Gray W0SD]

During a serious effort this week end in the 10 meter contest and 
fighting snow static I had a lot of experience with the pre-amp and snow 
static and the NB!  We had a blizzard here all Saturday night and Sunday 
and a bit below zero and lots of snow blowing around so I really could 
only use the 5 element at just below 200 feet which was pretty much 
above the blowing snow.  Early on when it was still dark on Sunday 
morning it was snowing some and even the NB did not take care of it. 
For those of you down south when it is cold the snow is dry and the 
snow static is much worse.  Anyway I had to turn the pre-amp on and off 
depending on the snow static noise.  Several times I was having trouble 
hearing people and I would notice the pre-amp was off and would turn it 
on and be able to copy them.  Before turning the pre-amp on I had the 
volume really cranked up and when it was quiet I would turn the volume 
down and turn on the pre-amp and it definitely made a difference.  What 
I am saying is that I could copy signals with the pre-amp on that I 
could not copy with the pre-amp off no matter what I did if I did not 
have the snow static.  The bottom line is I had the pre-amp on as much 
as I could.  For me I had more trouble with what I would called NB 
induced splatter than on 160M CW but I think it was a factor of the wide 
filter 2.8 khz and the DSP at 2.1.  I tried the 1.8 filter a few times 
but I seemed to have trouble hearing the weak ones and when you are 
trying to survive it is not the time to be learning how to use your 
radio.  We had great success using the 1.8 khz filter in SS but 10 
meters with trying to copy weak signals and having someone strong right 
next door and using the NB and Pre-amp I just did not get it figured out 
how to use the 1.8 filter.  I will have to try and learn this summer 
during the better sporadic E season but it is nearly impossible to 
simulate the 10M contest.


I have a lot of people calling me that I just can not pull out.  The 
truth is with 1500 watts it is impossible to hear someone running a few 
watts if they are just barely hearing me.  I am sure there were a lot 
that called that I did not hear and there were others I just could not 
copy calls, etc. I do everything I can with having quiet rcv conditions 
and 7/8 heliax but the heliax just makes me louder on transmit so 
really no help there on hearing the weak ones.  Anyway last year before 
the K3  arrived this summer I used the FT-1000D for a number of years 
and previous to that a TS-950SDX and the K3 is much better on 10 meters 
than they were.  On another note I did notice the K3 puts out full power 
on 10 meters which a lot of radios do not.  I was amazed at how cool the 
K3 stays.


FWIW I operated split in the contest a lot as it is a lot easier tuning 
for those off frequency of which there seems to be a lot on 10 meters 
than using the small RIT knob.  The RIT on the K3 is better than other 
radios I have used but going split is a lot better.  Just like the 
FT-1000D tuning the SUB in the right ear is not the most FUN with 
the small knob.  I see that physically there is room for a bigger knob.


Is there someway one could but your CQ frequency in memory and use the 
main knob for the SUB.  I think I am dreaming but with the firmware 
lots of things are possible.


For those in the NE my heart goes out to you with the ICE.  I have had 
ice here and it causes a lot of work to be destroyed in a short time!!!


Ed W0SD

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Re: [Elecraft] KDVR3 Firmware request

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Do I understand if I am in PTT (not VOX) and I hit M1 the DVR will 
transmit(actually act like it is on VOX although the K3 is set to PTT?


What about if I have used PTT with a foot switch and keyed the K3 and 
the 8877 on two meters and the T/R relay in the amplifier has been 
switched can I tap M1, etc. and send the DVR CQ or other message?


If this is true I can make this work.  Obviously I have to be sure to 
activate PTT with my foot switch before hitting M1, etc. or almost 
certainly burn up the T/R relay trying to hot switch 1500 watts.


If this works then I would assume even if I take my foot off the foot 
switch the DVR continues(simulates VOX).  I certainly need to keep my 
foot on the PTT switch until the DVR is finished to prevent burning up 
the T/R relay if there was a simulated VOX drop out.


So another question if you are in PTT and you hit M1 and it starts 
transmitting(simulates VOX) does the VOX settings such as delay in 
effect.  I have a hard time getting used to things doing VOX like action 
when you are in PTT.


You answered my question about CW on SSB in that you can defeat it 
sending CW when in PTT.  I never have read the CW Weight item as I don't 
mess with that on CW so thanks for telling me where it is at.  It 
surprised me the other day when I was in SSB with VOX off and I 
accidentally hit the CW key and tripped the protective circuit on the 
Alpha 99 as the amplifier was not set up as I was just listening around 
on different bands thinking since I was not in VOX it would not transmit.


It is a nice feature to be able to transmit CW when in SSB mode and the 
menu item handles the situation well.  I normally will have it so it can 
not send CW but over the years I have seen times where this feature 
would be nice.


Ed W0SD


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Re: [Elecraft] KDVR3 Firmware request

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Maybe the answer for VHF amplifier use is to use some delay between when 
the K3 keys up before it puts out power and then on the DVR leave a 
little pause before starting to record, ie no audio should equal little 
power out on SSB if the background while recording is quite.  Apparently 
the K3 should stay keyed up until the end of the DVR if the M1, etc. is 
tapped when in PTT even if there would be a slight pause in it.


Can you confirm if you are in PTT and hit M1 does the K3 stayed keyed 
for the complete DVR recording even if there are some pauses in the 
recording?


Thanks for your help.  There are not a lot of them out yet and the 
information is mostly what has been posted here and of course it will be 
awhile before I can get one although it looks like the demands is 
nothing like the KRX3 as I think I seen one associated with a 900 number 
K3 already.


Ed W0SD

Iain MacDonnell - N6ML wrote:



Ed Gray W0SD wrote:
Do I understand if I am in PTT (not VOX) and I hit M1 the DVR will 
transmit(actually act like it is on VOX although the K3 is set to PTT?


Yes, or at least mine does, and I want it that way. It's not really
what I'd consider VOX, though - it's activated by pressing the button,
not by the audio.


What about if I have used PTT with a foot switch and keyed the K3 and 
the 8877 on two meters and the T/R relay in the amplifier has been 
switched can I tap M1, etc. and send the DVR CQ or other message?


I get strange results when I try that. I think the firmware is getting
confused. The message starts to play, then cuts out. If I try it a
few times, it starts working. If I then go back to just pressing the
button, with no PTT, it acts strange for a few attempts too.

I think there's a firmware bug, perhaps related to PTT canceling DVR
playback. I'm not sure how it's supposed to work if you press the M1
button when PTT is already asserted.


If this is true I can make this work.  Obviously I have to be sure to 
activate PTT with my foot switch before hitting M1, etc. or almost 
certainly burn up the T/R relay trying to hot switch 1500 watts.


If this works then I would assume even if I take my foot off the foot 
switch the DVR continues(simulates VOX).


Good question. I'd expect the TX to be a logical AND of the potential
assertions (PTT, VOX (from mic) and CW keys), and it should keep
transmitting while ANY of them are still on.

The other part of that is that the DVR and mic audio probably should
be mixed together in the case where both DVR and PTT are active.


I certainly need to keep my foot on the PTT switch until the DVR is 
finished to prevent burning up the T/R relay if there was a simulated 
VOX drop out.


I really think you'd be better off using the KEY OUT from the K3. Is
there some reason you can't do that?


So another question if you are in PTT and you hit M1 and it starts 
transmitting(simulates VOX) does the VOX settings such as delay in 
effect.  I have a hard time getting used to things doing VOX like 
action when you are in PTT.


Again, I don't think it's VOX - I think it's a separate software TX
assertion, but Wayne/Lyle/someone would need to confirm.


You answered my question about CW on SSB in that you can defeat it 
sending CW when in PTT.  I never have read the CW Weight item as I 
don't mess with that on CW so thanks for telling me where it is at.  
It surprised me the other day when I was in SSB with VOX off and I 
accidentally hit the CW key and tripped the protective circuit on the 
Alpha 99 as the amplifier was not set up as I was just listening 
around on different bands thinking since I was not in VOX it would not 
transmit.


Yeah, I think a case could be made for requiring VOX or PTT for CW in
SSB mode. Maybe it should be a configurable option.


It is a nice feature to be able to transmit CW when in SSB mode and 
the menu item handles the situation well.  I normally will have it so 
it can not send CW but over the years I have seen times where this 
feature would be nice.


I've used it as a quick way to tune-up when band-switching in an SSB
contest (with a straight-key positioned right next to the amp) :)

~Iain






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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Monitor

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Lyle,
Thanks for the info! It sounds absolutely correct as the DVR that I am 
inputting on line in from my computer sounds a lot better in the 
monitor.  I did find out when using line in that the mic is still HOT 
which makes sense.  This leads to the question??? With the KDVR3 when 
sending over the air is the mic muted?  I don't have a KDVR3 yet but am 
planning on getting it for at least one of my K3's.


Ed W0SD

Lyle Johnson wrote:
... Something does not seem correct with my monitor audio, ie it is 
not a true representation of what the transmitter sounds like.  Does 
anyone have any ideas?


With MON, you hear the slightly delayed audio from the monitor as well 
as your own voice.  This may be perceived by some as a slight echo.


The delay is due to how DSP works.

Tx audio is processed by the DSP (leveled, filtered and equalized), 
converted to a nominal 15 kHz IF, clipped (if compression is on) and 
then sampled, downconverted to audio, filtered again, and passed to the 
speaker or headphones (or, now, LINE OUT :-)


There is some delay associated with all of this processing.  This is 
most likely what you are hearing as a slight echo effect.


If you record MON and then play it back while you are not speaking, 
you'll hear no echo.


If you have the KDVR3 installed, listen to a voice message.  No echo.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Muting mic when voice keying (was K3 Monitor)

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I must be missing something.  From the way I read the manual you just 
turn Line in on and set the level and then you go back to Mic + line in 
and the level for line in is retained and different than the mic level. 
 Did I not understand the manual?


Barry N1EU wrote:


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
I do not believe that muting the mic when PTT is asserted from the 
RS-232 input is a good idea.  Many logging programs use the RS-232 
signals to activate transmit.



Actually, I think that would be an excellent option:  mute the mic input
when PTT is asserted via the CAT RS-232 RTS/DTR line.  In a typical contest
setup, your computer logger/dvk'er will feed audio into K3 line in and
assert PTT via RS-232 CAT port.  When you use your mic, you can use K3 PTT
input.

This would solve N1MM Logger's inability to mute the K3 mic while voice
keying because the K3 doesn't offer separate level controls for mic and line
(like the Orion does).

73,
Barry N1EU






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[Elecraft] KDVR3 Firmware request

[Ed Gray W0SD]

First a little back ground as Wayne probably has not read the line-In + 
Mic discussion.


When one uses the computer for a DVR for contesting an easy way to do it 
is to take advantage of the Line Input but given one also wants to use 
the mic for operating then the MIC is hot during the playing of the 
DVR.  For SO2R there are added issues of switching the DVR from the 
computer and the mic between the two radios.  Lyle KK7P pointed out that 
an external program could easily set the active Tx audio path from MIC 
to LINE IN, send the audio, then switch the Tx audio path back to MIC. 
The problem is to get your program author to make those changes for the 
K3 but definitely an option!


I am thinking the KDVR3 is a better way to go to cure the hot mic and 
associated sound card problems.  It also should get rid of the black 
box for SO2R DVR with two radios with a KDVR3 in each radio.  You still 
have the issue of switching the mic between two radio.


Given there are 8 messages available with the KDRV3 that would be enough 
for different contests and one could have some for guest operators. I 
assume once you choose the second bank you stay there and you don't 
have to tap rec/M1, rec/m2, etc. each time to use what I would call 
message 5 and 6.  It takes us a long time to get a DVR that is high 
quality, does not have pauses, starts right, ends promptly, has the 
right amount of enthusiasm etc.  What I am saying is once you have a 
good one you want to save it for future use.


KDVR3 Firmware request:  Would it be possible to have a KDVR3 menu item 
where you could set it so you could not record over the top, ie erase,an 
existing message without going back and changing this menu item?


Another reason for this request is if I understand what I read that 
doing over the air recording would erase an existing message if the 
buffer is full.  It would be better if the on the air recording and play 
back used separate memory but I don't think that is the case or for that 
matter realistic.  I apologize if it already works this way.  Anyway it 
seems to me there could be some conflict with using the on the air 
record function and accidentally erasing DVR messages.  Obviously there 
is the mistake category where you accidentally record over/erase a 
message and that is why a firmware choice to prevent this would be a 
nice feature.  Basically like the computer message with the second 
chance DO you really want to do this idea.


There are a lot of on the air contest DVR's messages that are horrible! 
 Here at W0SD we don't ever want to have one of those so we spend a lot 
of time getting a good one and even then one has to be careful that 
other factors such as sound card problems, ground loops, etc. don't mess 
things up.  Of course there is the issue of getting the levels and sound 
between the DVR and the Mic to sound the same.  That is why I would like 
to have a firmware choice to preventing erasing a good message on the 
KDVR3 without being very intentional about it.


There was a request to use the computer key board to play the message 
and that has merit rather than tapping the M1, etc. button on the K3 but 
I can see where this at best would involve making it available to 
programmers but this would be a good thing.  When you go to SO2R with 
two K3's this is also a contest software job but having it available to 
programmers would be a good thing.


Conclusion: I am thinking the KDVR3 really has a market for contesters 
especially with the firmware taking care of some things while at the 
same time not messing things up for the  operators who mainly want the 
KDVR3 to record for on the air play back or I assume you can go to 
TEST mode and send to line out and record on your computer, etc. to 
save or send to others to listen to.


This just got me thinking: I wonder if it could be possible to send a 
DVR from the computer on the line in and be recorded by the KDVR3.  This 
would be a relatively fast way of getting a DVR into the K3?  Maybe it 
is but if so I missed it.


Ed W0SD

Ed W0SD

Thanks,

Ed W0SD

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Re: [Elecraft] KDVR3 Firmware request

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Dave, your points are very well taken! I agree that most of these 
matters need to be dealt with in the contest/operating software. 
However I still think that a firmware choice to prevent all but the most 
intentional erasure of a message or recording with the KDVR3 would be a 
good thing.  It is like a computer file, once it is gone it is gone 
forever unless there is a backup.  If you spend the time to record a 
good DVR on the KDVR3 I think having a choice so as to not lose it very 
easily would add a lot as a reason to have a KDVR3. I think the same 
would hold true of a nice on the air recording you made with the KDVR3. 
 I don't think this is not as serious as you should be able to play it 
on the line out and save it on the computer and make backups and have 
it for the rest of your life or send it to someone else.  Of course if 
you don't back it up you could lose it.


Another good use for the KDVR3 would be on a one or two person 
DX-pedition, maybe larger.  They can have the KDVR3 installed in the K3 
and do their messages.  With this firmware change they would not have to 
be concerned about losing them.  Often one or more of the team members 
are not that familiar with the radio and could accidentally erase a 
message.  Generally you just have a laptop on a DX-pedition so using the 
KDVR3 would be a great step forward IMHO.  My experience from being on 
several DX-peditions is that a laptop lacks when it comes to using a 
contesting program with one or no com ports, etc.


Personally I can not get very enthused about plugging my microphone into 
a computer and then running wires here and there.  IMHO it just adds to 
the chance of cable problems, etc. but that is personal preference. 
This is even more true on a DX-Pedition, forget one cable and you are in 
major trouble in the places I have been!!!


So we agree a lot of this should be handled by contesting software but I 
think the KDVR3 installed in a K3 should be made as useful as reasonable 
possible through the firmware or why sell it?  I realize different K3 
users have different likes for a KDVR3 but I think they would be 
interested in protecting their effort in creating a good DVR message so 
it was not easily erased just like your computer operating system gives 
you a second chance before you delete something.


I think the beauty of the K3 firmware in that within reason things can 
be done to enhance the use of the K3 with the KDVR3. It is not unusual 
for me to spend 1 hour getting a near perfect DVR message.  I would 
like to have a way to protect that near perfect DVR.  However I do 
agree with Dave and never intended in trying to make it a SO2R DVR radio 
even with two K3's.  This is beyond what needs to be done in the K3 
firmware and is not fair to the broad spectrum of K3 users most of which 
have no interest on SO2R. For that matter I don't do SO2R but some of 
the people who operate here do.


There is a downside to getting contesting software to do what you want 
it to do and that is you have to convince the authors to do it for the 
K3.  Sometimes that is not as easy to do as it might seem.


Ed W0SD


Dave Hachadorian wrote:
Before getting too wrapped up in so2r/contesting dvr/mic switching 
within the K3, keep in mind that Writelog, and N1MM, and probably other 
Windows-based contesting software, already have elegant solutions to 
that problem.


You connect your mic to MONO MIC IN of the sound card, and STEREO LINE 
OUT from the sound card to the radios' LINE IN, with left channel going 
to the left radio, and right channel going to the right radio. Mic is 
muted when messages are playing. Messages can be re-recorded on the fly. 
Different messages can be stored in the voice of the different 
operators. Different messages can be used for SP vs. CQ mode. With this 
setup, you don't need to connect a mic directly to the K3.


Just some thoughts to keep the issue in perspective.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ

- Original Message - From: Ed Gray W0SD w...@triotel.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 5:49 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KDVR3 Firmware request


First a little back ground as Wayne probably has not read the line-In 
+ Mic discussion.


When one uses the computer for a DVR for contesting an easy way to do 
it is to take advantage of the Line Input but given one also wants to 
use the mic for operating then the MIC is hot during the playing of 
the DVR.  For SO2R there are added issues of switching the DVR from 
the computer and the mic between the two radios.  Lyle KK7P pointed 
out that an external program could easily set the active Tx audio path 
from MIC to LINE IN, send the audio, then switch the Tx audio path 
back to MIC. The problem is to get your program author to make those 
changes for the K3 but definitely an option!


I am thinking the KDVR3 is a better way to go to cure the hot mic 
and associated sound card problems.  It also should get rid of the 
black box

Re: [Elecraft] KDVR3 Firmware request

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Thanks Lyle!  For me that is great news!

I have another question on the KDVR3. If I am using PTT rather than VOX 
can I play a DVR message by tapping for example M1.  Let me explain 
more.  A long term problem with VHF contesting and using DVR on two 
meters and above is hot switching the amplifier T/R relay at high power, 
ie 8877 on two meters.  By and large people use PTT and even then in 
some cases a sequencer to be sure the amplifier T/R relay has to be 
closed or at least gets a head start at two meters and up.  If you use 
DVR on VOX you soon burn up an amplifier T/R relay at Two meters and up 
unless it is an expensive vaccum T/R and I have seen them go!


With the KDVR3 I am wondering when using the K3 with a XVERTER if one 
can key it and the amplifier it is driving with PTT and then play the 
KDVR3 message tapping the M1, etc. key.


I am assuming if the VOX is not on the KDVR3 will not key up the radio 
if you accidently hit M1, etc.  However I am wondering since in USB or 
LSB you can send CW even though the radio has the VOX turned off. Put 
another way you can not transmit with the mic until you engage PTT but 
if you hit the key it still works jsut like VOX.  Maybe there is a 
setting where that can be defeated but if so I have missed it?


Ed W0SD

Lyle Johnson wrote:
Another reason for this request is if I understand what I read that 
doing over the air recording would erase an existing message if the 
buffer is full.


The 90-second record-off-the-air DVR loop buffer, and the eight DVR Tx 
message memory buffers, are completely separate.  You can't erase a Tx 
Buffer message with an Rx recording, and vice versa.


At least, not with the current firmware :-)

73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] K3 Monitor

[Ed Gray W0SD]

It is my understanding that the monitor audio in the K3 was not so good 
early on but that this has been taken care of and has been OK for quite 
awhile.


The past two days I have gotten extensive on the air checks on 10 meters 
in preparation for the 10M contest coming up this week end as the 
monitor does not sound right to me.  It sounds like there is a echo. 
However I have run checks with locals at S-9+ and with stations 200 
miles away at S-0 to S-7 with QSB and I am getting great audio reports.


The real clincher is I listen on my other K3 with the attenuator on and 
RF gain backed off and it sounds good.  Something does not seem correct 
with my monitor audio, ie it is not a true representation of what the 
transmitter sounds like.  Does anyone have any ideas?


Ed W0SD

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[Elecraft] K3 KRX3 Fantastic in ARRL 160 M!

[Ed Gray W0SD]

How the K3 and KRX3 did in the 160M ARRL Contest:

W0DB operated W0SD in the ARRL 160M contest.  To make the top 10 last 
year and this year we just live to far west so we just can't work the DX 
multipliers like they can to the east of us.  We are a long ways from JA 
as well and the activity out of the PAC was terrible so we got no help 
there!!!


Anyway the totals were 1638 Q's and 104M of which 79 were ARRL Sections. 
 We just got the K3 with the KRX3 and bi-directional beverages, rcv. 
loop and low rcv dipole put together just before the contest.  For 
transmit we had 1/4 wave vertical with 135 radials and a drooping dipole 
at 195 feet.


We used the K3 with the Rcv antennas with a switch between RX ANT and 
AUX RF.  We could switch the rcv antenna's to the Aux RF for diversity. 
 We also used the sub unlinked to hunt for multipliers using the main 
antenna.


For next year we are going to put up another high dipole cross ways to 
the present one as one of the rec antenna's so it can be used in 
diversity reception with the vertical. That was the one combination we 
were missing.


To give you an idea of how good the K3  KRX3 are the 1638 Q's is 3rd 
high in the single op high power listings showing the ability of the K3 
with the KRX3 to hear.  Actually only two multi-op stations have more 
Q'S as well.  Considering many of the east coast station had 300+ EU 
qsos and we only had a handful shows the ability of the K3  KRX3 and 
Joe's ability to pull them out. The other bad thing was Joe was only 
able to work 4 JA's rather than the hoped for 100. Yes the antenna's are 
a significant factor BUT you have to have a the radio that can take 
advantage of the antennas to survive!!!  I don't know of anything more 
BRUTAL than the QRM on 160M with nearly everyone packed in 40 khz. 
There were times Joe had the DSP to 50 hz with the 200 hz roofing filter 
and could still hear 3 signals. The other amazing things is that at 
times we have a little power line noise on the SE beverage and the K3 NB 
is just awesome.  Every radio I have ever used when you get strong 
signals you have problems with the NB.  We did not notice any problem at 
all!!!


I was not going to but now there is no question I am going to get 
another KRX3 for the other K3 as it just adds so much to the radio!!!


One thing Joe told me was to NOT use functions on the K3 and KRX3 when 
transmitting.  The radio does not like that and did strange things.  You 
might say why would you do that?  When you are working that many q's an 
hour and have things going on in both ears and have 9 antenna switches 
to deal with plus knobs on the radio to work with you only have free 
time while transmitting so you think I need to make this change so I 
will do it now but it does not work!  Thankfully you can make rcv 
antenna changes while transmitting.


The K3 and KRX3 are amazing radio's and don't let anybody tell you they 
are not.  I read a lot of stuff on here that is based on opinion.  This 
report is based on actually on the air results in the REAL WORLD! 
IMHO you can place a lot of confidence in reports such as these in 
making a decision about buying a K3 and KRX3!!!


Ed W0SD

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Doing all additions at once

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Having done the KRX3 just recently and looking at the DVR3 manual it 
looks to me like you will want to do them at the same time.  More 
specifically when you remove the front panel to install the KRX3 you 
will also want to do the DVR3 before you re-mount the Front Panel.


I have later serial numbers so I don't know about the 3 mod's but given 
the KRX3 covers the main board up I would sure think you need to do them 
before or as part of the KRX3 install. You have to take the front panel 
and sides off and the front part of the bottom off to install the KRX3.


There is no question that people down the road who buy everything will 
have a lot less steps because now doing the various additions as they 
arrive involve some tearing apart what you already have done.  However 
this is a small price to pay as we have had the enjoyment of using the 
best radio available for a lot more months and a big head start learning 
how to operate it.  There is a lot to learn as the radio can do so much. 
 Becoming more familiar with the radio in the long run is a good thing. 
 Given the type of construction and if Elecraft stays in business and 
with firmware and other updates being possible this radio should be able 
to be top of the line for many years to come.


Ed W0SD

Terry Schieler wrote:

Don, W3FPR, wrote  My vote is to do them all at once, but YMMV depending on
your  
confidence level.


That has been my theory too.  But it begs one further question.

I have the KRX3 second receiver, the ALC mod, Ant Shunt Switch Mod, CW Rise
Time Mod, the Hardware AGC Mod all sitting here waiting to be installed and
my DVR3 is on its way to me.  Can you or anyone who has completed these
additions recommend a specific order in which to perform their installation
that might minimize any unforeseen headaches?

Thanks.

73, 


Terry, W0FM
K3/100 #474


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Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 56, Issue 10

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Re: [Elecraft] Things to watch with the KRX3

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Thanks for sharing these items Bill.  I can add one to the list. 
Obviously most of us know that the widest filter we are using HAS to 
be first (lowest in number) slot.  Somehow and I have no idea how I 
accidentally started at FL5 thinking it was FL1. Of course when you put 
the top shield on you can not you made a mistake.  What makes it even 
more interesting there is no way to know they are wrong other than you 
don't hear anything as you do not get an error message with the KRX3. 
With filters in the wrong slot on the K3 main board you get an error 
message.  Also the K3 software utility when you go to the KRX3 will show 
them as you put them  in the software(it does not read the KRX3 
configuration-it just writes to it and there is no indication anything 
is wrong.  For example it appears you are making changes to FL1 which in 
my case there was no filter there.  The only way to get it right is to 
visually see that you have the filters where they are supposed to be. 
Fortunately when I pulled the top shield off I immediately spotted my 
stupid mistake.


On your last question if you hold down sub(longer than a tap) you toggle 
between link and unlink.  However when you go to link if you hold the 
sub button in longer you see the word link and a bit later that is 
replaced by word diversity.


Ed W0SD

William Evans wrote:

Hello,
I received my KRX3 two weeks ago, and, after much difficulty, have 
finally got it installed and working. Here are the problems I 
encountered (All due to my incompetence, but maybe this will help others)


1)  If you place the screws, washers and sleeves in a tin muffin pan for 
sorting, be sure the pan is securely fastened to the desk or table so 
you will not knock it off, scattering all the tiny pieces. (Ask me why 
this one if first!)


2)  When you place the plastic shield over the battery, use another 
piece of tape to hold the shield on the circuit board.  Otherwise it can 
be pulled off the battery while installing the KRX3 in the K3. You will 
know that the battery cover came off when all the panel lights go out 
when you attempt to turn on the K3.


3)  When placing the top shield in the KRX3, be sure not to pinch L33 
between the shield and the circuit board.  This WILL break the lead on L33.


4)  Check at least 5 times to be sure the pins line up correctly when 
you place the KRX3 into the radio.  Of course on the last attempt to 
line up all pins you will get them one off.


5)  Go to CONFIG:KRX3 and select either ANT=BNC or ANT=ATU, depending 
upon how you have selected the received signal to enter the SUB 
receiver.  If you do not do this, the SUB Receiver will seem to not have 
an antenna connected to it. (Mainly because it really WON'T have an 
antenna connected to it!)


6)  If you have not already done so, go to Elecraft's web site and 
download the software and INCLUDE the software for the DSP2.


7)  If you selected to use the AUX antenna input, and wired it for that 
mode( and selected CONFIG:KRX3:ANT=BNC), you MUST go to EACH BAND, 
select BSET and then select the AUX antenna for that band.  Otherwise, 
you will not have any antenna connected to the SUB receiver.


8)  If the sensitivity is low on both the Main Receiver and the SUB 
receiver, check the 6 TMP cable from J5 on the KREF3 board to J82 on 
the KRX3.  If the shield is broken, the S meter is reduced by at least 5 
S units and you cannot, no matter how many times you try, increase the S 
meter reading by calibrating it.


9)  If you are listening to the SUB receiver and attempt to change mode, 
it will not change unless you select BSET first.  Do not keep pushing 
the mode button, wondering why it is not working!


10)  Always remember to plug the speaker back in before tightening all 
nine screws in the top.  And while you have the top cover off, check to 
be sure all screws are connected to the stiffening bar. (You did 
remember to replace that, didn't you?)


Finally it seems to be working... but I have one question.  Why, on one 
occasion as I was pushing the SUB button, did the word diversity 
appear, but I have not seen it at any other time?  What am I doing/not 
doing right this time?


BTW, with my record of stupid mistakes, I would probably be a good 
candidate to beta test the writing of the manuals!


Bill
W4ISH
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[Elecraft] K3: KRX3 hearing no Signals

[Ed Gray W0SD]

For future reference for people searching as to why there KRX3 is not 
hearing any signals be sure the filters are installed in the slots they 
are supposed to be.  You will have noise and the sub controls will work 
but you are not hearing any signals.  I know what I am going to write 
sounds simplistic but read on there is more to it than one would think. 
 I am well aware of filter placement as I have put together two K3's 
and as I was putting the KRX3 together my XYL Edith W0OE mentioned the 
manual information that the widest filter needs to be first.  It does 
not have to be in FL1 but it has to be first.  I told her THANKS I AM 
AWARE OF THAT!  How I did it I will never know but I proceeded to start 
with the wide filter in FL5 and then FL4, FL3, FL2 leaving FL1 open. 
Somehow in turning the board back and forth I messed up.


What makes this more tricky than the filters on the main board of the 
K3?  First of course the top shield soon covers your mistake.  Secondly 
what make it even more tricky with the KRX3 the K3 only checks for 
correct filter placement in the main rig for the FLTX settings that 
affect the transmitter and mode (ERR TXF for example). In the SUB, it is 
solely up to you to get them right.


Thirdly what really fooled me was I used the K3 utility and made changes 
to the KRX3 filters and changed things on FL1 in the KRX3 and sent them 
to the radio.  I also set the filters up from the CONFIG setting so 
everything appears to be fine but in fact there was no filter at all in 
FL1 so the ONLY way to figure it out is to visually look at the filter 
placements.  That is the only way to find this mistake in the KRX3 other 
than starting to trace the rcv signal which I was about ready to to. BTW 
Elecraft support has an excellent test procedure for this. The good news 
is when I pulled the top shield off I spotted the wrong filter placement 
instantly and just could not believe I made a stupid mistake like that. 
I took 4.5 hours with a break to put the KRX3 together and still made 
the mistake!  I think when you know something you can easily become 
careless.


I also got ERR VC4  E 00039 which required an adjustment of T1 windings 
on the sub synth board.  Don't do this without instructions on how to do 
it. That problem was not my fault.  It is just one of those things and 
was a real easy fix.


Others have commented on the front panel removal!  I concur it is not a 
big deal.  The only thing that I would emphasize is when you put in the 
BNC for the Aux RF to note the instruction about NOT taking out the 
one screw. I dropped the stand off down in the radio and it took a lot 
of messing to get it out!!!


After having the KRX3 board with the shield on in and out of the radio 
more times than I care to mention you eventually find you can get the 
cables routed quite nicely out of the way.  At first it does not seem so 
but keep adjusting things as the cables can be placed so it comes in and 
out easily.


BTW I was reading the KDVR3 manual and the front panel steps are 
basically the same as the KRX3 removal of the front panel.


What a mad rush to get things working with the KRX3 on Thursday and then 
working right up until the 160 meter contest to get the two new 
bi-directional beverages hooked up and get everything interfaced to the 
K3 and try and learn how to use the RX antenna AND the sub-rcv AND 
diversity and provide some additional protection from RF getting into 
the radio.  We had a whole 30 minutes to spare!  Joe W0DB is operating 
here at W0SD and he has a lot of choices.  It is so impressive what the 
K3 with the sub and with all the filters can do.  The noise blanker also 
works the best of anything I have every used.  The two best previously 
was the TR-4 years ago when mobile and the FT-1000B.  Not only does it 
take out the noise it handles the strong signals with ease!!!  I never 
seen anything like it.   In this case for CW we are using the 500 hz and 
200 hz on the main board and on the sub.  Joe was down to 50 hz with the 
DSP and we still had QRM.  Given I am told 50 hz is about the best you 
can do with your head the QRM on 160 meters in the contest is something 
to behold!!!  I have had Collins line, Drake Line, ICOM, FT-1000D, 
TS-950SDX, etc.  This is truly the greatest radio I have ever owned. 
With the KRX3 installed and the KXV3 the flexibility for antenna 
switching and diversity reception of signals is something not found 
anywhere.  We have a switch so we can use the 7 rcv antennas either as 
rcv antennas to the RX in on the KXV3 or we can use them on the AUX RF 
in for the sub or sub using diversity.  There are other ideas we have 
but this is all we had time for getting everything going.


Ed W0SD




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[Elecraft] SN#1196 K3 General coverage

[Ed Gray W0SD]

After using #1037 this past week end, last night I started putting 
together #1196 which came right after I got back from TO5E and I was 
getting ready for the IARU contest so there just was no time.  The 
second one certainly is easier than the first. Things went well and I 
did add the General Coverage option.


This brings up some questions about the General Coverage option?  I 
confess to not knowing much about AM.  The latest I read is if you are 
in AM mode with a 2.8khz   5 pole filter in FL1 if I hold down the knob 
for normal I would get 2.8 khz but instead I get 6.0 khz  I can 
expand it to 10 khz.  I am hazy in my thinking on the effect the 2.8 
roofing filter is having here. I can hear no difference to my ear 
between 6.0 and 10 khz so I assume the roofing filter is having its 
effect. However at 5.0 khz with the DSP I can definitely hear less 
fidelity and at 4.0 khz it does not sound very good. I suspect that the 
signal is strong enough so it is working beyond the width of the roofing 
filter.


In SSB the norm takes me to 2.7 khz and I can use the DSP out to 4.0 khz 
but I can hear no difference in fidelity.  It sounds the best at 2.7 khz 
and of course less fidelity as I narrow it down. This I guess is because 
I am just listening to one side of the AM signal.


Has there been some changes in the firmware that I don't see anything 
written up on.  I will have to say that on Short Wave and also AM 
broadcast it sounds very good in AM at 6.0 khz with the DSP.


Ed W0SD

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[Elecraft] Calibration of K3 wattmeter

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I must not be to sharp today because I read the manual and read a bunch 
of e-mails on the reflector and could not get the K3 power reading to 
calibrate against my Bird watt meter.


The manual on Page 46 says ADJUST THE MENU PARAMETER.  Well I first 
thought that meant VFO knob A but I turned it and seen no change.  I 
tried the power knob setting but that was a dead end. I could not come 
up with anything else to try so I finally wrote Gary at tech support and 
here is what he said:


When in WMTP LP or WMTR HP and you press TUNE,  turning the VFO A knob 
counterclockwise for smaller numbers in the LCD will result in more RF 
output on an external wattmeter. Turning the VFO A knob the opposite way 
will decrease the actual RF output.   The change per 3 digit count in 
the menu is small, so you may need to turn the VFO A knob quite a bit to 
see much change in the actual RF output on the external wattmeter. This 
adjustment should be done with the K3 set to the 20m band. This 
calibration is done while you are in the WMTR menu *and* you then press 
TUNE.


The key is you have to turn VFO knob A quite a ways.  When I did not see 
a response right away I assumed I was not following the correct 
procedure when in fact I was.  Anyway now my watt meter and the K3 read 
the same.  I am pretty confident the Bird is correct as I have several 
watt meters and elements and they agree very closely.  BTW the K3 was 
not off a lot.  It was 45 watts when the Bird said 50 watts so about 10%.


I thought is would share my lack of being sharp today in case others 
suffer from not spinning the knob on VFO A long enough like I did.


Ed W0SD

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Re: [Elecraft] SN#1196 K3 General coverage

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I am not into listening to short wave much or AM radio but I wanted it 
for getting news/WX when traveling on a DX-pedition and for an 
occasional basket ball game I like to listen to from the home QRH on a 
distant AM station that takes my antenna farm to drag in.


If I add the AM 6 khz filter I will be up to $130 + $125 = $255 to do 
that so I am going to try and get by with the 2.8 khz since I have zero 
interest in transmitting AM.  In Australia it was a big deal to listen 
to there HF radio WX frequencies when we were mobile as it was still 
hurricane season and we put in a long day of travel to get by a 
hurricane which is a good thing to do if you have good info and a stupid 
thing to do it you are not keeping constant tabs.  In Australia you 
don't turn inland on any kind of Oil road many places.


Ed W0SD

Bill Maddock wrote:

Ed,

   I have the shortwave board in my K3 - the 2.8 khz would definitely
be too narrow - I run a 6 hhz and it is still pretty narrow - The FM
12 khz would be best for fidelity if that is what you want - I have
noticed with the 6 khz roofer in AM the DSP goes out to 10 khz! Both my 850s 
have 15 khz wide roofers and 12khz IF for AM and they sound superb!
The 6 khz is very satisfactory for listening to voice, but tight on music!

  I would love to get a second K3 and may if things look good later
this fall!

  73 and Good Contesting!



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[Elecraft] K3 #1037 in IARU contest

[Ed Gray W0SD]

The IARU contest was the first chance to try SN#1037 out in more crowed 
band conditions.  We were multi-op single transmitter so three persons 
used the radio and we were both CW and SSB. It was a serious effort with 
1967 contacts in the 24 hours and over 1,000,000 points.  All the 
operators did not have any trouble adapting to the radio having never 
used a K3 before.


What a joy to have a radio that gets around a multitude of problems most 
radios have such as the FT-1000D 1000MP, TX-950SDX, Mark V, etc. in 
setting up for a contest.  CW with the computer into the key jack and 
paddle in the paddle jack using the internal keyer is Plug and Play.


Heil HC4 was plug and play.  We used the front connector with the 
Kenwood Heil adaptor.  I had read some reports about the connector not 
being sturdy one the front but I certainly find it to be fine.  Since 
the adapter sticks out close to 2 inches there would be some lever arm 
in effect if you banged some thing heavy against it but the mike 
connector is as sturdy as other radios I have.  We may move to the 
connections on the back of the radio.  If you don't have your radio yet 
the manual clearly states for the HC4 and HC5 Heil to have the bias 
turned off.  It plugs into the back or for the front use the Kenwood 
Heil adaptor.


We did not have a lot of time to set up the audio but I will concur with 
what Ed W0YK has said and that is to not set the mic gain to high.  We 
got good audio reports and no bad ones.  Different operators have 
different voices and one needs to get levels set up so the DVR from the 
computer has similar levels on the line in to the microphone.  Our 
settings were good for two of us using the high level input.  We ran the 
mike at 15 and the compression at 20.  I really could not hear much 
change until about 15 on the compression and at 20 I could hear what I 
would call moderate compression.  The third person spoke much softer so 
we had to do some on the fly adjustment whenever he was on SSB which was 
easy to do and after that he could do it himself.


We used some equalization starting with W0YK's suggested setting.  It 
seemed to give the audio a little more highs.  I need to do more testing 
here but it does work.  I will say if you don't have a low pitched voice 
the audio without any equalization changes for contesting or busting 
pileups is A OK.


BTW having just got back from operating TO5E for 10 days the on the air 
audio of 40% of the hams we worked is a VERY, VERY sad commentary on 
operators inability to operate there equipment correctly.  They sounded 
horrible.  On the positive side about 40% were excellent for cutting the 
pile up and were still excellent communication quality.  About 20% had 
good rag chewing audio. The K3 TEST mode should make it possible for 
any amateur to make sure there signal sounds OK.  Obviously or lets say 
I assume the 40% that sounded terrible had never listened to themselves. 
  When I say terrible I really mean it!!!


The DVR from the computer into the Line input is plug and play but you 
have to adjusted the level as per the manual. Using DVR from the 
computer worked great.  We had no issues at all.  The VOX/Anti-VOX and 
delay worked extremely well.  This is the best VOX I have ever used.  We 
always have foot switches so if the VOX starts acting up we can shut it 
off and keep on going.  We never had any issues or need for that with 
the K3 in the first contest with it.


The filters were 2.7  5 pole,  1.8 khz   8 pole,  500 hz 5 pole and 200 
hz  5 pole.  Admittedly we have a lot of learning to do in regards to 
shift and lo-hi cut but we used them enough to know they are going to be 
awesome assets and made some qso's possible we could not of made without 
them.  Anyway all the operators were impressed with how easy it was to 
use the width control and used it a lot.  I came away with the definite 
impression that one can do well with less filters as the DSP handles 
things well even when things are crowed with strong signals.  The 1.8 
khz filter is a big time winner for SSB contesting.  For a non contester 
it would not be nearly as big an issue but if you operate 20 meters a 
lot it would be good as it always seems crowded with someone close by 
that is strong.  We have more to learn but we used w0YK's suggested IF 
shift of -500 hz(FC of 1.10 khz) which makes the 1.8 khz filter very 
pleasant to listen to. Anyway as a number of people have said it is very 
good advice if you are not a contester to not get a lot of filters until 
you have used the radio.  You may very well find you are totally happy 
with just the DSP filtering.  Possibly you might want an 500hz filter is 
you do CW.


We also have a lot of learning to do in regards to the Noise Blanker. 
Fortunately we don't have much power line noise here but we did use it 
on 10 meters(we had some high wind which bounces the power lines around) 
at a setting I previously had chosen and it worked great. We found 

Re: [Elecraft] RF probe

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Speaking from personal experience you have to order the RF Probe kit 
separately.  It is the one that comes with the K2 and it costs $10.00 as 
of  3 weeks ago.


Ed W0SD

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[Elecraft] K3 Serial # 1196 arrived

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Ordered February 19th 2008, SN#1196 delivered today July 9th via UPS. 
It would be 10 days under 4 months. It needs assembling.

K3 100 watt
K3 ATU
K3 General Coverage option
K3 200 hz 5 pole
K3 500 hz 5 pole
K3 1.8 khz 8 pole
K3 KXV3 Interface

Just a tip learned from building #1037.  Whenever powered up doing 
testing be sure to not have anything under the radio such as a screw or 
nut if you have the front cover on the bottom off.  Of course you have 
to have the back cover of the bottom on because of the LPA transistors.


The safest is to just put both bottom covers on when ever powering up so 
you don't accidentally short a trace.  This would of course be true 
anytime in the future.


Ed W0SD
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[Elecraft] K3 .4 wattsr

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Tech support is closed for the night so I am looking for ideas?

The K3 worked after I put it together at 10 watts.  When I put in the 
100 watt PA I got an error message.  Thinking the 100 watts PA was bad I 
took it out and tried to go back to 10 watts but now it won't work at 
low power.


I have been trying to trace the RF with the K2 RF Probe and find I don't 
have RF very early on.


The following is at 1.850 with the power set at 5 watts and in tune.

With a K2 RF probe at the tip of the coax coming from J7 on KREF3 that 
goes into J65 on the RF board I am getting .01 to .02 reading with my 
DMM in the 20 volt scale.  This is the actual reading on the display. 
It is my understanding I should be getting around .111The cable is good.


The following is the same as above but the reading is taken in receive 
and is the same reading in transmit.


I am getting .16 to .17 at the tip of the coax coming from J2 on KREF3 
that goes into J83 on the KSYN3.  It is my understanding this should be 
around .784   Again the cable is good.


The leads on the TXCO certainly appear to be long enough.  The K3 works 
on receive but I did have a lot of difficulty in zero beating with WWV 
so this might indicate I have a low level of output from the TXCO.  The 
dot on the TXCO is as shown on the picture.


I get a ERR TXG and that is the only error message I get other than when 
I have J83 unplugged.


I have the FL1 position populated with the stock 2.7 khz filter and TX 
enabled for all modes for FL1 the stock 2.7 khz filter.  That is the 
widest filter I have.


I am absolutely positive nothing is touching on the bottom of the KREF3 
board to the shield.


I have looked at the KREF3 with a magnifying glass and everything looks 
good.  I have wiggled everything I can and see no variation in the 
measured levels.


Do I have a bad KREF3 board or is there something stupid I am 
overlooking.  The K3 puts out about .4 watts in tune when set for 5 watts.


I am not sure if I should have tech MD on or off but I get the same 
reading either way.


VCO MD works fine, no error messages.

Ideas?

Ed W0SD





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Re: [Elecraft] K3: SSB - WPX - Filters - Controls

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Why a 1.8 filter?

Well put Ed-W0YK. I am no electrical engineer, ie have no electronics 
background, but I do my best to understand.   In addition to what 
Ed-W0YK mentioned there are at least a few more situations besides 
contests for a 1.8 filter on receive for SSB. I have been on the bands 
everyday working a lot of DX and I note the RTTY and CW and SSB DX 
stations are more and more going to split frequency.  Many are just 
saying UP and many are saying up 1 and many SSB stations are just saying 
up.  I have no problem with this as it is best if the DX station does 
not use anymore bandwidth than possible operating split.  I can see why 
they go split as simplex can be a real mess.  The point is calling 
stations are really getting close to the listening(DX)frequency.  As we 
move into a season of more sporadic E(can really be strong) on the 
higher bands calling stations this close are going to be a problem as 
they will be much louder than they are now.  With hopefully more 
sunspots down the road F2 signals more local will be very loud on 17M 
and up.  Even now on 20 meters and down they already often are loud so 
we need all the IMD protection we can get.  The l.8 filter roofing 
filter with DSP can make a difference.


On CW, RTTY and SSB I think a number of people lose track how close they 
are getting to the DX station and I often have stations on CW and RTTY 
calling with in 300-500 hz and on SSB with in 1000 hz.  What makes this 
especially bad is they can call that close for a long time as they don't 
get worked by the DX station.  Having operated a number of DX-Peditions 
I always made sure not to work anyone real close to my frequency and I 
note others do the same to prevent station getting almost on top of the 
DX stations frequency. Sometimes the calling stations figure it out that 
they are to close and sometimes the policeman get them moved(not easy 
as they often are not listening to their transmit frequency) but then 
you have the policeman QRM.


Another thing that happens quite commonly is two DX stations with the 
one having a listening frequency range that includes or gets extremely 
close to the other DX stations frequency.


A second reason is a DX station operating split often accidentally gets 
TRASHED by a very close station(usually does not know the DX station 
is there) 1 or 2 Khz away or right on top of them and then there are the 
Policeman trying to get them to move. It can be difficult to copy a DX 
station even with reasonable strength when this happens.  Obviously if 
they are right on top there is nothing we can do with the rcv but often 
they are not right on the frequency and the rcv comes into play.


A third possible reason that I am interested in finding out about under 
actual operation is combating QRN on SSB with 1.8 and the proper AGC vs 
a wider filter and the proper AGC. I think this somewhat depends on the 
hearing from person to person but there is a lot of difference between 
2.7 to 1.8 in filter width.  This would mainly apply to 80 and 60 meters 
I would think as there is little SSB on 160M on the low end but could 
come into play higher in the band.  I know from a lot of moonbounce 
experience a narrower filter often helped as long as it was not to narrow.


A fourth reason which has often been mentioned is if you have hams that 
live close to you! Admittedly they are not likely to operate that close 
to you normally that the difference in filters would make any difference 
but you both might want to chase the same DX station at the same time as 
sometimes the window to a rare one is just 10 or 15 minutes a day and 
the DX station is just listening in a narrow range up a little.  In this 
situation the other station can be pinning your meter so you need all 
the help you can get!


Fifth even if you don't work DX or Contest but have any schedules or 
just get on and call CQ and ragchew so often even after asking several 
times if the frequency is in use some one can get very close to you and 
also band conditions change.  Also if you like nets it is not at all 
unusual to have a very strong station interfering with NCS and other 
stations on frequency.  Maybe it is because I live in the middle of the 
country but QRM very close in frequency is a constant issue for me; 
especially on SSB no matter what type of operation I am doing.


Obviously as W0YK said it depends on what type of operating you do. If 
you only do cw, digital and rarely if ever get on SSB then the 1.8 
filter is not needed.  If you get on SSB much at all to me it seems to 
make economic sense to eventually get a 1.8 or 2.1 filter for receive 
given we are not talking about a lot of money difference, maybe 4% -7% 
of the total price.  IMHO on SSB receive the major advantage a K3 has 
over any other radio on the market would be the narrower roofing filter 
than the competition.  The only other advantages I can see on SSB over 
others might be a more effective NR/NB but of course 

Re: [Elecraft] 6 Meter Questions - OT

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Mentioned is a sixth reason to my recent post of additional reasons 
besides contesting for a 1.8 filter for SSB.  Six Meter sporadic E 
signals can be very, very loud and band conditions often change rapidly 
so two stations very close to each can appear very suddenly through no 
fault of their own.  This is even more true during the VHF Contests if 
the band opens.


The questions I will answer direct.

73,  Ed W0SD

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[Elecraft] K3 CW Keying Question

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I have a K3 ordered and in preparation have been reading the manual I 
downloaded.  If I understand the manual I can use one CW jack to key the 
radio with my computer using Writelog, etc.  The other jack I can use 
the K3 internal keyer with my paddle.


What has precedence?  If I am sending with the computer what happens if 
I hit the paddle, etc.?


Thanks
Ed W0SD
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Re: [Elecraft] Computer Noise ruining 20 30m

[Ed Gray W0SD]

I realize this is not a specific Elecraft topic but it is in response to 
a request and it is on a radio subject.  It would be interesting on 
reports on what the K3 noise blankers do on this type of noise.


First of all I am no engineer but I have had some experience with this 
problem.


I got the top of the line Carcom line filter based on suggestions on the 
160 reflector and installed it right to the PC with about 1 inch of line 
cord and I put ferrite on that 1 inch.  I knocked the noise down a 
bunch,  I have to do some testing on a dead band to see if it is all 
gone but it made a huge improvement.  I have to suspect your AC line 
filter is not a very good one OR the case is leaking.  I say this 
because using the AC line filter seems to be the common cure that works. 
 Fortunately my case was metal but on a lot of the new computers there 
is a lot of the case that is plastic.   For me the problem was the worst 
on 160 meters.  From my tests the noise was coming in over the antenna


I was going to switch computer power supplies but my old ones did not 
provide the extra voltage line that most of the newer supplies do and 
that my mother board required.  If I remember correctly the extra line 
had to do with the dual processor.  It is kind of a catch 22 as the 
newer supplies that plug into the newer computers just are not built 
like they were for filtering.  I am hoping someone can suggest a power 
supply that work with the newer computers that can be bought from places 
like Tiger direct etc. that is well built and quiet.  One hates to buy a 
new supply and have the same problem and from what I can tell the odds 
of that happening are pretty high..  One could try and determine the 
noise level on a broadcast receiver and then go to a friendly computer 
shop and try some supplies until you found a quiet one on the broadcast 
receiver.  That might not be all that cheap if you have to try several 
and take up a lot of time.  It seems to me buying one that is of good 
design that others have not had problems with would make the most sense 
if one knew which one to buy. .  Another approach is if someone would 
buy a supply and fix it and then document what supply it was and how 
they fixed it with filtering and toroids it would be a great service as 
this problem is going to be  become very common as us hams update our 
computers.  Actually I suspect they are all built about the same so what 
worked on one would work on all of them.  A good article for one of the 
ham magazine but for now it could be on a web site.


I will be interested in what others say.

Another common problem is birdies from the Router and CAT5E cable.  I am 
digging into that,  here they seem to be on all the bands spread out.  
One can work around them but I want to get rid of them.  Toroids seem to 
be one answer as a lot of routers have this problem.  Again if someone 
knows of a router that is clean that would be an easier fix as some of 
the big toroids are not cheap.  I guess one could buy various routers 
and take them back within the 30 day return period until you found a 
clean one but it sure would save a lot of hams a lot of trouble to know 
of one that is clean.  I would be interested in what others say on this 
subject.


Thanks

Ed W0SD





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Re: [Elecraft] Computer Noise ruining 20 30m

[Ed Gray W0SD]

Summary:
Based on the answers received and spending all morning reading on the 
WEB it appears  PC Power and Cooling,  Startec and Antec at least at the 
higher end have good computer power supplies. One amateur had good 
success curing his problem with a Startech ATX POW450Pro, two reported 
good results with PC Power and Cooling and one with Antec.  Other 
possibility is Enermax but no testimonials.  A lot of the information is 
in regards to a low DB noise level to the ear and delivering the power 
without a voltage drop. and not much on  RFI/EMI information.  The ones 
listed above do speak of RFI/EMI.   Be sure you buy the right power 
supply for your computer.  They are not nearly as standard as they used 
to be.


Thanks for some great input!

Ed W0SD


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