Re: [Elecraft] My KAT500 seems very sensitive to common mode RFI
I have several turns of the AC adapter cord through two snap on beads. I don't have anything on the AUX cables at this time, but that is something I should probably check. I ordered 6 of the Mix 31 Big Clamp toroids from KF7P. For the 40m vertical I'll place one choke at the feedpoint and see if the problem is resolved. If not, I'll place another choke at the KAT500. If I still have a problem, another choke will be placed at the output of the KPA500. If that still doesn't work, another choke will be placed at the output of the K3. Once I have suppressed the common mode RF on the vertical, I'll try replacing the string of ferrite beads on my hex beam's coax with a Big Clamp choke at the KAT500. -Jeff W6UX On Saturday, February 14, 2015 6:25 PM, Harry Yingst wrote: Do you have chokes on the power, AUX, and Serial Cables to the KAT500? From: Jeff Hall To: Michael Walker ; Harry Yingst Cc: Elecraft Reflector Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2015 9:22 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My KAT500 seems very sensitive to common mode RFI Thanks everyone for their replies to my problem. I read Jim Brown's paper this afternoon and have ordered some mix 31 Big Clamps. I'll try putting one at each end of the 40m coax feedline (RG8X) with the prescribed number of turns. -Jeff On Saturday, February 14, 2015 4:22 PM, Michael Walker wrote: There are some great articles on common mode chokes http://www.yccc.org/Articles/W1HIS/CommonModeChokesW1HIS2006Apr06.pdf The other is K9YC's cookbook. Since I bought a VNA, I have been able to play with the choking value of some random chokes. Very interesting. Mike va3mw On Sat, Feb 14, 2015 at 6:57 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote: There must be something special about 40 meters and micro-controllers. My Aquarium Controller used to do a Reset when I transmitted on 40.The cure for me was to wrap the control cable leads through Some Snap on chokes I just installed my KAT500 today and considered taking thepower lead and wrapping it around a snap on choke a few times. From: "Jeff Hall, W6UX" To: Elecraft Reflector Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2015 12:48 PM Subject: [Elecraft] My KAT500 seems very sensitive to common mode RFI I have a Hex Beam and a 40m wire vertical w/ two elevated radials. I have been fighting what appears to be a common mode RFI problem which causes the KAT500 to continuously power cycle as long as the K3 is transmitting. Generally this only occurs when driving my KPA500 amp beyond a certain output level which differs for a given band and frequency. I am powering the KAT500 with its own AC adapter. The problem can occur in both bypass and auto mode. 7-10 ferrite beads on the coax attached to the KAT500 solved the power cycling problem for my hex beam antenna and I successfully operate QRO in bypass mode on all bands and modes. However the beads did not help with the wire vertical. I can drive 300w into my dummy load with no ferrite beads on the coax and the KAT500 is fine. The SWR is low enough I should be able to use these antennas to run the KAT500 in bypass mode. If I put it in Auto mode the problem is exacerbated. I can tune the wire vertical just fine with the KAT500 in Auto mode at a tuning level of 25w from the K3. However, if I try to transmit at 5w or more (SSB for example), the KAT500 starts to power cycle. I have no problem using the wire vertical if it is connected directly to the K3's internal ATU. I observed that in this configuration, I could still trip the power on the KAT500 even though it's not even connected to that antenna, so I do believe this may be a common mode RF issue in the shack. Somehow noise is finding its way into the KAT500. Several turns of the AC power adapter's cord around a few ferrite beads hasn't helped either. I will at some point remove the KAT500 from the equation and see how things work by directly connecting the K3 to the KPA500. I would like to keep it in service as I might need it at the extreme band edges of the wire vertical. The vertical wire is from W8AMZ. I don't believe there is any kind of current Balun inside the feed point but I did place 10 ferrite beads over the coax at the feed point. I'm running 100' of RG8X to this antenna. The hex beam antenna is feed with LMR-400 and RG-213. So I don't know if the problem is specific to my vertical wire antenna and feedline or if I should suspect a defective KAT500. Before I take the KAT500 offline, can anyone suggest some further experiments to try? 73, Jeff W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help
Re: [Elecraft] My KAT500 seems very sensitive to common mode RFI
Thanks everyone for their replies to my problem. I read Jim Brown's paper this afternoon and have ordered some mix 31 Big Clamps. I'll try putting one at each end of the 40m coax feedline (RG8X) with the prescribed number of turns. -Jeff On Saturday, February 14, 2015 4:22 PM, Michael Walker wrote: There are some great articles on common mode chokes http://www.yccc.org/Articles/W1HIS/CommonModeChokesW1HIS2006Apr06.pdf The other is K9YC's cookbook. Since I bought a VNA, I have been able to play with the choking value of some random chokes. Very interesting. Mike va3mw On Sat, Feb 14, 2015 at 6:57 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote: There must be something special about 40 meters and micro-controllers. My Aquarium Controller used to do a Reset when I transmitted on 40.The cure for me was to wrap the control cable leads through Some Snap on chokes I just installed my KAT500 today and considered taking thepower lead and wrapping it around a snap on choke a few times. From: "Jeff Hall, W6UX" To: Elecraft Reflector Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2015 12:48 PM Subject: [Elecraft] My KAT500 seems very sensitive to common mode RFI I have a Hex Beam and a 40m wire vertical w/ two elevated radials. I have been fighting what appears to be a common mode RFI problem which causes the KAT500 to continuously power cycle as long as the K3 is transmitting. Generally this only occurs when driving my KPA500 amp beyond a certain output level which differs for a given band and frequency. I am powering the KAT500 with its own AC adapter. The problem can occur in both bypass and auto mode. 7-10 ferrite beads on the coax attached to the KAT500 solved the power cycling problem for my hex beam antenna and I successfully operate QRO in bypass mode on all bands and modes. However the beads did not help with the wire vertical. I can drive 300w into my dummy load with no ferrite beads on the coax and the KAT500 is fine. The SWR is low enough I should be able to use these antennas to run the KAT500 in bypass mode. If I put it in Auto mode the problem is exacerbated. I can tune the wire vertical just fine with the KAT500 in Auto mode at a tuning level of 25w from the K3. However, if I try to transmit at 5w or more (SSB for example), the KAT500 starts to power cycle. I have no problem using the wire vertical if it is connected directly to the K3's internal ATU. I observed that in this configuration, I could still trip the power on the KAT500 even though it's not even connected to that antenna, so I do believe this may be a common mode RF issue in the shack. Somehow noise is finding its way into the KAT500. Several turns of the AC power adapter's cord around a few ferrite beads hasn't helped either. I will at some point remove the KAT500 from the equation and see how things work by directly connecting the K3 to the KPA500. I would like to keep it in service as I might need it at the extreme band edges of the wire vertical. The vertical wire is from W8AMZ. I don't believe there is any kind of current Balun inside the feed point but I did place 10 ferrite beads over the coax at the feed point. I'm running 100' of RG8X to this antenna. The hex beam antenna is feed with LMR-400 and RG-213. So I don't know if the problem is specific to my vertical wire antenna and feedline or if I should suspect a defective KAT500. Before I take the KAT500 offline, can anyone suggest some further experiments to try? 73, Jeff W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to hlyin...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to va...@portcredit.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] My KAT500 seems very sensitive to common mode RFI
Thanks Jim, I'll give it a read and order up some mix-31 toroids. Does it surprise you the KAT500 is getting power cycled as I described? Is it really that sensitive? 10 of the ferrite beads I got from DXStore (rated for 150MHz or lower) work fine for 10m-20m. But no dice on 40m, so I guess the frequency is just too low for them to be effective (or perhaps I'd need like 50 of the suckers!) -Jeff On Saturday, February 14, 2015 10:06 AM, Jim Brown wrote: On Sat,2/14/2015 9:48 AM, Jeff Hall, W6UX wrote: > can anyone suggest some further experiments to try? Yes. The problem is that ferrite beads slipped onto a transmission line does NOT make an effective common mode choke. Those beads are inductive, and, depending on the length of the line and the operating frequency, many lines look capacitive. The inductance resonates with the capacitance, and the common mode current increases. To be effective as a common mode choke, we need a high value of common mode impedance, and the best way to get there is with a high value of RESISTANCE. We obtain that by forming a low-Q parallel resonant circuit -- we wind multiple turns of the feedline through a lossy ferrite toroid or clamp-on. The number of turns needed depends on the ferrite material and the operating frequency. The best ferrite material for the HF bands is Fair-Rite #31, because it has the lowest effective Q over the widest frequency range. Study k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf and use the Cookbook as a guide to wind the chokes you need. The chokes are most effective at the feedpoint of your antennas. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to w...@ymail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] My KAT500 seems very sensitive to common mode RFI
I have a Hex Beam and a 40m wire vertical w/ two elevated radials. I have been fighting what appears to be a common mode RFI problem which causes the KAT500 to continuously power cycle as long as the K3 is transmitting. Generally this only occurs when driving my KPA500 amp beyond a certain output level which differs for a given band and frequency. I am powering the KAT500 with its own AC adapter. The problem can occur in both bypass and auto mode. 7-10 ferrite beads on the coax attached to the KAT500 solved the power cycling problem for my hex beam antenna and I successfully operate QRO in bypass mode on all bands and modes. However the beads did not help with the wire vertical. I can drive 300w into my dummy load with no ferrite beads on the coax and the KAT500 is fine. The SWR is low enough I should be able to use these antennas to run the KAT500 in bypass mode. If I put it in Auto mode the problem is exacerbated. I can tune the wire vertical just fine with the KAT500 in Auto mode at a tuning level of 25w from the K3. However, if I try to transmit at 5w or more (SSB for example), the KAT500 starts to power cycle. I have no problem using the wire vertical if it is connected directly to the K3's internal ATU. I observed that in this configuration, I could still trip the power on the KAT500 even though it's not even connected to that antenna, so I do believe this may be a common mode RF issue in the shack. Somehow noise is finding its way into the KAT500. Several turns of the AC power adapter's cord around a few ferrite beads hasn't helped either. I will at some point remove the KAT500 from the equation and see how things work by directly connecting the K3 to the KPA500. I would like to keep it in service as I might need it at the extreme band edges of the wire vertical. The vertical wire is from W8AMZ. I don't believe there is any kind of current Balun inside the feed point but I did place 10 ferrite beads over the coax at the feed point. I'm running 100' of RG8X to this antenna. The hex beam antenna is feed with LMR-400 and RG-213. So I don't know if the problem is specific to my vertical wire antenna and feedline or if I should suspect a defective KAT500. Before I take the KAT500 offline, can anyone suggest some further experiments to try? 73, Jeff W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KPA500 powercycling at higher wattages into KPA500
My KAT500 is getting power-cycled in CW and RTTY modes at various drive levels from the K3 on different bands. I can run SSB full power with no problems at all, and receive superb audio reports (no hint of RF in my transmissions). I am thinking I have either an excessive voltage drop on the AC circuit or perhaps there is enough RF getting into the shack to trip up the KAT500 power when using the higher duty cycle modes. Everything is running on the same 120v house circuit. I experimented with moving both the amp and the KAT500 to a different circuit in the same room, but this did not solve the problem. Let me first describe the equipment, and then I'll list the frequencies and power thresholds that tripped the KAT500 into a power cycle: Antenna: Traffie Hex Beam. Very low SWR, typically 1.2 or less, sometimes 1.5 on 10 and 12 meters. The antenna is over a portion of the house, and about 20 feet away from the shack. The coax is grounded at the base of the antenna (two ground rods, through a lightning arrestor). KAT500: I have this in BYPASS mode. I don't really need the tuner for the hex beam, but I plan on using it with a future vertical for 40m. I am powering the KAT500 with its own AC power adapter. For good measure, I wrapped about 4 turns of the power cord through a ferrite bead at the transformer end of the cable. This is a 15V 1000mAh power adapter from Radio Shack. KPA500 is plugged into the same circuit on its own outlet at the wall. HV reads 78.5 at rest. The unit is sitting on top of the KAT500 with the foldout legs extended. K3 is powered with an Astron RS-35M, on the same house circuit. P3 is powered by the K3 VDC out On 15 meters CW, the KAT500 begins to experience power cycles driving 20-22 watts. The amp, when it crosses about 450 watts, the KAT500 power cycles. I ran 30 watts into it for about 620+ out with no problems on SSB, SWR never exceeded 1.2 on the KAT500's indicator lamps. On 12 meters CW, the KAT500 begins to experience power cycles driving just 9 watts (about 180w out). SWR on this band is a steady 1.5. I did have some success by moving the KAT500's power adapter to the other circuit in the room and was able to push the K3 to 22 watts (480 out) before the powercycling returned. This lead me to believe I had a voltage drop issue, perhaps from running the amp on the same 110 circuit. But on 10 meters I still had problems even using the other circuit to power the KAT500. That makes me think noise is getting into the KAT500, or perhaps RF from the antenna is putting noise on my AC house circuits. I was able to run the amp to full power on SSB with no power cycling of the KAT500. On 10 meters the KAT500 power cycles with just 6 watts drive (170 out). On phone I can run full power with no issues. SWR is 1.2 on this band. I have a Morgan AC line filter arriving tomorrow and I'll see if the problem persists with it filtering the house circuit feeding the shack equipment. Do these symptoms smell more like a noise issue (RF in the shack) or a line voltage deficiency with the house circuit? I'm think probably taxing the line in the higher duty cycles, and it just manifests at different thresholds on different frequencies. When transmitting a long string of CW or RTTY, if the KAT500 gets into repeated power cycles the KPA500 eventually throws a fault. Some other observations: If I turn on my desk lamps, at the higher outputs the lamps will modulate slightly with my voice. I think I'm sucking too much juice from the circuit, but this is just a guess on my part. Generally the only other piece of equipment in the house that seems to be affected by RF is our DirectTV receiver (the notorious touch-panel design). It is generally only affected on 10 meters, with a high duty cycle mode like RTTY. Can anyone provide me some more troubleshooting tips? Thanks!Jeff, W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Headphone Jack Problem with K1
I have noticed that my LINE IN jack sometimes loses the input signal and I have to apply a slight pressure to get it restored (gently push in on it). It's fine after that unless I move the K3. Does this jack suffer the same issues as the headphone jack too? Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 23, 2015, at 4:49 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > George, > > To remove the old headphone jack, you can de-solder it if you have good > de-soldering tools. If not, crush the body of the old jack (pliers will > work) sufficiently so you can remove the old pins one at a time. Do whatever > you need to do to preserve the thru-plated solder holes (do *not* drill out > the holes. > > Unfortunately, there is only one supplier of that jack, and despite past > efforts from Elecraft to attempt to persuade the manufacturer to beef up the > jack, no positive results have occurred. > It is not really *that* weak. Some have worked for years, yet a small > percentage will fail. I know that is not a help if you are in that small > percentage category. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > >> On 1/22/2015 10:59 PM, George Averill wrote: >> All, >> I just discovered that the headphone jack on my K1 is cracked and needs >> replacing. I understand that this is a weak point in the K1. Can anyone >> advise me on the best way to remove the old jack? Has Elecraft come up with >> a stronger replacement jack? I think the part number is E620028. > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to w...@ymail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] New KAT500/KPA500 owner needs help (K3/P3/KAT500/KPA500/Microkeyer II)
I just finished building my KAT500 and KPA500. I am trying to integrate them into my existing setup consisting of a K3, P3, and Microham Microkeyer II. This setup was working fine before I cabled up the new equipment, and now I am having some issues. All hardware has been updated to the latest available firmware. I have cabled the equipment as follows (as prescribed in the KAT500 manual, with the addition of the Elecraft Y-Cable so the KAT500 and MKII can access the ACC port on the K3): KAT500:- ANT1 -> HexBeam feed- XMTR -> KPA500 RF OUTPUT- XCVR -> E850463 Aux Cable -> Elecraft Y-Cable -> K3 ACC (shares ACC w/microHam MicroKeyer II)- AMP -> E8509463 Aux Cable -> KPA500 AUX- VDC -> AC to DC 15V 1000 mA adapter KPA500:- RF OUTPUT -> KAT500 XMTR- AUX -> KAT500 AMP MicroKeyer II - ACC -> Elecraft Y-Cable -> K3 ACC K3:- ANT1 -> KPA500 RF INPUT - I have set the KAT3 CONFIG menu to Bypass.- I enabled KAT500Y by tapping 1 on the KAT3 CONFIG menu.- KAT500 is in AUTO mode- Tuning power is set to 25W - Power is set to PER BAND- I have used the KAT500 to memorize settings at the low, high, and midpoints of the bands I operate, and I selected the "Optimize for KPA500" setting in the KAT500 Utility program. And the problems I am observing so far are: - The KPA500 isn't talking to the K3 (or vice versa); band changes are not being tracked from either device- The KPA500 isn't amplifying any amount of drive (at 35 watts out of the K3, the first LED on the KPA500 lights. Even with the OPER LED lit).- The KAT500 doesn't always power on. Sometimes the K3 has to be on first. Reconnecting the ACC port on the K3 seems to trigger this state.- The K3 isn't responding to mode changes in WinWarbler (RTTY/CW/SSB) Something tells me I've got a problem with the ACC line and or cabling. Thanks for any help you guys can provide!Jeff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KPA500/KAT500/W2 order advice needed
Hi everyone, I presently have a K3/100 hooked up to a P3 and a Microkeyer II. I want to add three new Elecraft products to my lineup: KPA500 amp, KAT500 tuner, and the W2 watt meter. There are many options listed on the Elecraft ordering page and I'm not sure if I have all the necessary cabling options selected. Additionally I need advice on which directional couplers I should choose for the W2. Here are the items currently in my shopping cart: - KAT500-K (High Power ATU, Kit) - E850463 (KAT500 to KPA Aux Cable) - KPA500-K (500W Linear Amplifier, Kit) - KPAK3AUX (KPA to K3 AUX Cable) - CBL36UHF (36" Coax cable) (three: K3->W2, W2->KPA500, KPA500->KAT500) - PWR-US240a (US 240V Power Cord) -- extra, for future use when I have a 240v line - W2-K (W2 Wattmeter, Kit) - DHCF-200 (0.1-200W 1.8-54MHz directional coupler) - DHCF-2000a (1-2000w 1.8-53MHz directional coupler) So, have I forgotten anything critical to get everything connected? The Microkeyer II uses the RS-232 port on the P3 and the ACC port on the K3. The KPAK3AUX cable Kit includes a Y-cable for the ACC port so that should make room for the Microkeyer II to be inserted into the rest of the K-Line gear. I picked the 0.1-200W directional coupler as I wanted to put the W2 between the K3 and the KPA500. Is it worthwhile adding the second coupler for 1-2000w? I'm assuming you only use this if you want to place the W2 after the KAT500? Thank you all for any suggestions! Jeff Hall Not using encrypted e-mail? Please consider securing our future communications with free tools from GNU Privacy Guard (http://www.gnupg.org). My public encryption key can be downloaded here: http://pgp.mit.edu:11371/pks/lookup?op=get&search=0xB21BD4CB668F6897 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] VFO B receive not heard in headphones with SUB on (SOLVED!)
Mike, thank you very much! The problem was as I suspected, operator error! The outer AF knob was fully counter clockwise. Restoring this knob to the 12:00 position restored VFO reception in my right ear. It must have gotten knocked by someone using my rig at Field Day. What a relief! 73, Jeff > Message: 25 > Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2013 07:25:15 -0700 (PDT) > From: Mike K2MK > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] VFO B receive not heard in headphones with SUB >on > Message-ID: <1378736715468-7578753.p...@n2.nabble.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Hi Jeff, > > After pushing the SUB button you have no volume in the right ear. Lets > begin. > > Are the headphones fully inserted into the jack. > > Is the SUB RX RF gain control fully clockwise. > > Is the SUB RX tuned to the same band or perhaps a different (dead) band. > Press A-B twice to transfer VFO settings to VFO-B. > > CONFIG:SPKR+PH should be off. > > Press BSET and observe your antenna selection, PRE/ATT conditions, NR, etc. > Make changes as required. > > Is the outer ring of your volume knob set to NOR (for volume) or set to > BALANCE (for left right balance). Either will work but you need to know > which it is. > > Check CONFIG:L--MIX--R. For the simplest type of operation you want A-b. > > 73, > Mike K2MK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] VFO B receive not heard in headphones with SUB on
I haven't used my K3 much since Field Day. Today I turned it on and engaged the sub receiver by tapping SUB. Instead of hearing VFO B in my right ear, I only hear VFO A in my left ear. Adjusting the SUB RF control affects VFO A volume. It's like the radio's sub receiver configuration got messed up, or maybe one of the internal coax cables maybe came loose? Or I guess I just forgot how to use the sub receiver! Can someone please provide me with the troubleshooting procedures? Thanks! Jeff, W6UX Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Buying a KRX3 - Filter selection help needed!
Good point, Arie. I'm considering it! Thanks for all the replies folks, I think I'm good to go. -Jeff From: Arie Kleingeld PA3A To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; w...@ymail.com Sent: Sunday, March 3, 2013 5:01 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Buying a KRX3 - Filter selection help needed! Jast adding my two cents. No diversitiy possibilities here at PA3A-home. But sometimes, I take my K3 to the clubstation PI4D (with lots of antennas) for the big contests. We use the K3 in diversity whenever possible there! The K3 in that configuration is the favorite trx of many ops. Everybody loves the diversity. So if finance is not a problem, duplicate the filters. 73 Arie PA3A Op 2-3-2013 20:34, Jeff Hall schreef: > Hi everyone, > > I need advice on picking filters for a KRX3. > > I currently have the following filters in my K3: > > > 2.7 kHz 5 pole > 1.8 kHz 8 pole > 400 Hz 8 pole > > Should I put the same filters in the KRX3? At this time, I don't have the > capability to take advantage of "diversity receive". It's been a while since > I researched filters, but if I recall, it is only the 5-pole that has an > "offset" that needs to be matched, correct? Is it overkill to add the other > two 8-pole filters if I'm just using the KRX3 to chase DX working split? > > Thanks! > Jeff > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Buying a KRX3 - Filter selection help needed!
Hi everyone, I need advice on picking filters for a KRX3. I currently have the following filters in my K3: 2.7 kHz 5 pole 1.8 kHz 8 pole 400 Hz 8 pole Should I put the same filters in the KRX3? At this time, I don't have the capability to take advantage of "diversity receive". It's been a while since I researched filters, but if I recall, it is only the 5-pole that has an "offset" that needs to be matched, correct? Is it overkill to add the other two 8-pole filters if I'm just using the KRX3 to chase DX working split? Thanks! Jeff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] A Finger PTT switch for use with my Yamaha CM-500 headset?
I've found that using VOX outdoors is problematic due to background noise, so I'd like to wire up a finger PTT switch that works with my K3 and Yamaha CM-500 headset. I have an existing finger PTT switch that was designed for use with a Yaesu FT-11R HT. There are 3 stereo plugs wired to the finger PTT switch apparatus: - MIC IN (3.5mm male stereo plug) - MIC OUT (2.5mm male stereo plug) - EAR IN (3.5mm stereo plug) (this normally plugs directly into the HT's EAR OUT jack) When this is all hooked up to the HT, pressing the finger switch puts the radio into transmit mode, just as if you pressed the TX button on the HT directly. I'm wondering if I can use this switch, along with some adapters to get things working with my K3 and Yamaha CM-500's boom mic: 1. Couple the CM-500's MIC OUT plug to the switch's MIC IN plug using a 3.5mm female to 3.5mm female stereo adapter coupler 2. Connect the switch's MIC OUT to the K3's rear MIC IN (or my Microkeyer II's ext. MIC IN) using a 2.5mm female to 3.5mm male adapter 3. Plug the Yamaha CM-500's EAR IN plug into the K3's phone jack I don't have anything to plug into the K3's PTT IN jack and I'm not sure this is even needed. Maybe all I need to do is continue to use the K3 in VOX mode, but now the MIC will only activate when I close the switch AND talk into the microphone? Thought I'd ask before running out and buying those adapters... 73 de Jeff, W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Recommended case for transporting a K3?
I'm heading to Anacapa Island in 3 weeks for the IOTA contest. Taking a 1 hour boat ride from Los Angeles to get there. I've never taken my K3 out of my shack so I need recommendations on a case and proper packing to get it there safely and back. I heard Pelican was a good choice, and Frys has them locally. Is there a case that is water resistant and floats too? (little paranoid here!) Thanks for your help! Jeff W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Is it normal for RF meter to occasionally exceed set wattage?
Hi, I noticed during the CQ WPX RTTY contest that often the RF meter was fully pegged with the power set to 100 (the last two bars past the 100 mark). Shouldn't it be lit only to the 100 mark? I did all the calibration procedures when I originally built the radio back in March 2010. I just updated to the latest firmware and calling CQ on RTTY at 100 watts the meter seems steady at the 100 mark now. Occasionally there will be just a flicker of the first bar past the 100 mark on the RF meter. I don't know that this would matter, but recently I added about 30 feet of ladder line to my antenna - could that be the culprit here? Time to perform a re-calibration? And if so, which re-calibration procedure? (low, high, both?). Thanks! Jeff W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Cm500 and TX EQ settings
Mike, I messed around with the TX EQ for over an hour yesterday, I've settled on these settings for now (this sounded "less nasal" and not too much like I had a pillow over my face) *50 Hz @ -16dB* *100 Hz @ -16dB* *200 Hz @ -6dB* *400 Hz @ +8dB* 800 Hz @ +0dB 1600 Hz @ +0dB 2400 Hz @ +0dB 3200 Hz @ +0dB *Mic: 30* (for 5-7 bars with a steady "a") *Cmp: 20* (10dB on the CMP meter) It could be that my voice just wasn't meant for radio (good thing I didn't try to break into broadcasting!). I left the lows way down per recommendations from Jim Brown. I'm just trying to find a comfortable setting for ragchews. For contesting I'll probably drop the 3 lows to -16dB and leave the rest at +0dB. My RX EQ is flat; so I'm probably not hearing my TX EQ settings the way others do. Got a couple reports last night that the audio was nice and clear. Not sure if that means "comfy" for extended listening though. CCing the reflector for more opinions on my new settings 73 Jeff W6UX -- *From:* Mike Rodgers *To:* "w...@arrl.net" *Sent:* Tue, December 21, 2010 9:23:11 AM *Subject:* Cm500 Your setting look out of character for what I've seen. That should have no lows or highs. You should not need anything external from what I've read. I do not have a k3 yet but have been collecting much info. I have a collection of settings at home. 73 I saw it on the radio! Happy QSO'ing. Mike R __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Solved: CM500 mic keeps cutting out midsentence
Thanks to everyone who offered their suggestions! I am not sure what happened, but the problem cleared up simply by accessing my uRouter software for the MKII and toggling from Front mic to Rear, then back to Front. Once I did this I immediately noticed the CMP and ALC bars back to their desired peaks (5-7 for ALC, 10 for CMP). I worked with a local audiophile over the air and we settled on the following settings: Mic Sel: rPL.bias Mic: 30 Cmp: 20 VOX Delay: 1.2 (for rag chews; use something shorter for contesting) VOX Gn: 50 AntiVox: 25 The tone of my voice was still a bit nasal to him, so we adjusted the TX EQ as follows: 50 Hz @ +0 dB 100 Hz @ +0 dB 200 Hz @ +8 dB 400 Hz @ +2 dB 800 Hz @ -16 dB 1600 Hz @ -2 dB 2400 Hz @ +0 dB 3200 Hz @ +0 dB He suggested I consider adding a Behringer Shark DSP110 to soften up my tone and give it a warmer, fuller sound. They can be had cheap on eBay so I may pick one up to experiment with. 73, Jeff W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] CM500 mic keeps cutting out midsentence
I'm having problems preventing my Yamaha CM500 boom mic from cutting out intermittently while talking. I have the following settings on my K3: VOX Gain: 85 Anti-vox: 0 Mic delay: 0.90 Mic Gain: 30 Cmp: 25 The mic is routed to the K3 via a microHam MKII. I have tried moving the mic to various positions but this doesn't help. TX cuts out every few words and this is very annoying! I have to raise my voice above normal conversation levels to get it to turn the transmitter on. I've play around with various values, but I'm not finding a good combination. Is there another setting I have forgot to address? Maybe I've got a loose connection in the mic itself? Not sure how to take this apart for inspection. Thanks for any any and all suggestions! Jeff, W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Need for advice was; noise reduction
>I've already noted that I should provide advice regarding per-mode AGC
>slow/fast and other AGC settings. What other areas would you like to
>see additional guidance in?
>
>73,
>Wayne
>N6KR
Wayne,
I've had my K3 for nearly a year, and have only been on HF for about 1 year.
My background is software engineering, not electronics or RF. I have no
idea, really, why or when I should use NR 5-1 vs NR 8-4 (I just let my ears
guide me, but I don't understand when one algorithm is more appropriate than
another). When I try to clean up a signal, I generally go through the
following steps:
1. Engage NB (sometimes this takes the edge off the crackle I tend to hear
on 40)
2. If it's really hard to hear the signal, I'll active NR, starting at 5-1
(I only do SSB right now), and progressively move to 8-4, trying to see if
any of those settings improve my ability to hear the other op.
3. If I hear someone tuning up, I'll engage NOTCH.
4. Often I'll take out the low end rumble with LO CUT (HI CUT rarely seems
to improve anything for me). If there's a lot of QRM (during contests,
etc), I'll shrink the WIDTH as much
as I can and still be able to communicate.
But, each time it's a guessing game as to what will work. Maybe that's just
how life is when it comes to HF. But, if the experts on here were to
compile a list of "use case scenarios" -- this is a term all software people
are familiar with, it might be helpful to point the masses in the right
direction of how to clean up their reception and improve their transmission
(mic settings, etc).
So I envision a supplemental manual ("advanced operating tips" or something)
that is a compendium of challenges users frequently encounter and how to
adjust the K3 to solve those challenges-- for example:
SCENARIO: You want to work a weaker signal but there's someone stepping on
it from 2 KHz up
(describe recommended controls to adjust to reduce or eliminate the QRM)
SCENARIO: My noise level is S7 and the signal I want to work is just barely
above this
(describe recommended controls to adjust to increase the ability to lift
the signal out of the noise)
SCENARIO: People tell me my audio has too much treble
(describe recommended mic adjustments)
Examining the history of this reflector should help to identify which
scenarios would cover 80% of the user base's most common usage scenarios.
73 de Jeff, W6UX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Noise reduction tutorial/primer available?
Thanks Gary and "The Smiths" (great 80s band, BTW!) for those very helpful pointers! Can't wait to try those techniques out tonight! 73 de Jeff, W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: Noise reduction tutorial/primer available?
Hi, I've been searching for some operating tips on how to strategically employ the following K3 controls: - NOTCH - NR - NB - WIDTH - SHIFT As good as the manual is, I still feel like I don't understand how these really work and when I should use them to get the best possible results. To date, I've been randomly turning them on and off, adjusting their various settings to see what they do. But I'm hoping some of the experts here can explain how and when they like to use each of these controls. I have been using my K3 for about 4 months. Lately, 40m has been a little more noisy for me (about 4 bars of noise). I suspect its QRN, but there may be some QRM as well. Activating the noise blanker (NB) will usually drop the noise by 1 S unit. Recently, I've been fiddling with the NR settings to improve the signal quality (this was very helpful on last night's 3905 40m SSB net - the noise without NR on was just horrible). I don't understand what the different NR settings are doing, as you move from 1-1 thru 3-7. Going from 1-1 to 1-4, it sounds like the person on the other end is moving farther down a long hallway - the signal gets more faint, disappearing into a surrounding quietness. 2-1 and 3-1 sound very similar to 1-1. And, I don't understand what NAR1,NAR2,NAR3 through WIDE1, WIDE2, WIDE3 settings on the NR feature are doing for me. I don't notice much difference no matter what I select with those. What about NOTCH? I don't seem to notice any difference whether it is engaged or not. Finally, I can sometimes use the WIDTH control to reduce interference from nearby signals, but if someone is booming in 2 kHz away, I can't seem to shut them out. Anything else I can do here? I am not sure what SHIFT is used for, perhaps this can be utilized? I have the 2.7kHz, 1.8 kHz and 400 Hz filters installed. Thanks for helping a newbie! 73 de Jeff, W6UX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] New K3 -- speech reception is all distorted (SSB)
Well it appears I may have had the wrong sideband mode activated on the various bands I was trying to tune. Doh! Thanks, Jeff, W6EZY -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-speech-reception-is-all-distorted-SSB-tp4633791p4637406.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] New K3 -- speech reception is all distorted (SSB)
I'm attempting to use my K3 for the first time. I *think* I completed all calibration steps as per the manual (synthesizer, TXCO 1ppm, Tx gain). I hooked up the K3 to my antenna this morning and tuned to 10 MHz. WWV came in just fine and clearly understandable on LSB or USB. However, I seem unable to tune in SSB signals on other bands, such as 20 or 40. The signals are distorted. Perhaps I have missed something in the initial setup, or I need to activate something. I've tried adjusting the Shift/Width/Hi Cut/Lo Cut knobs to no avail. I'm using the KAT3 to tune my dipole. Filters: 2.7k 5-pole, 1.8k 8-pole, and .400k 8-pole. Trying to work my way through the manual, but I'm a little lost right now. Will try again later tonight after work. Suggestions? Thanks! Jeff, W6EZY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Need to select a dummy load for K3 TX calibration...(advice?)
Hello all, I need help picking out a proper dummy load to use for calibrating my new K3. HRO is just up the road and they carry some of the less expensive MFJ dummy loads -- would these be sufficient? Not looking to spend a lot of money, but don't want to buy junk either. What factors should I consider? I'm assuming oil-cooled dummy loads are more robust, while air-cooled loads are more compact, but you have to be more careful when operating or they can burn up more easily. The K3 manual says this is just a 5W test and I need a load with low VSWR from 160 to 6. What is considered "low" SWR? Anything under 1:5? If I can get by with the MFJ-260 for just $40, that sounds reasonable to me. 73 de Jeff, W6EZY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Need help making K3 purchase decisions
Greetings all, This is my first submission to the Elecraft reflector. I intend to place an order for my K3 today, but I need some help making the final decisions of which options I should purchase at this time. First, let me describe my antenna setup so the experts here can hopefully offer more specific advice. I am presently using a 40-10m wire dipole (DX Engineering) elevated to about 32 feet, with an apex angle a little over 90 degrees (maybe 95). The ICOM-729 w/ 100W that I have been using the past month has gotten the signal out as far as Seattle (S9) and New York (S9) from my QTH in SoCal. I have heard from all over the country, parts of Canada, Alaska, and can get faint signals from Central/South America and the Caribbean. Also hear from Japan occasionally. So I expect this antenna to get even better when the sunspots start making a comeback in a few years. In the future (5-10 years) I will probably move to a QTH that allows a nice 100' tower, but until then, I have to make do with my dipole. I just passed my Extra license test and these are my goals for the next couple of years: - Work as many locations I can (SSB/CW/PSK31) - Learn CW and become proficient at 20-30 WPM (will be purchasing a K8RA P-4) - Full computer integration and rig control with a MicroHAM MicroKeyer II - Participate in contests (once I understand how that works) - Work towards some awards (WAS for starters) - Work DX (someday, when I can put up a tower or as band conditions allow with my dipole) Now that you know a bit about my setup and what I want to accomplish, here are the options I am considering: - K3/100 kit - KAT3 100W internal tuner (no plans to buy a bigger amplifier for awhile; want to be proficient with 100W first) - KDVR3 (Not sure if this overlaps with features offered by the MKII) -- How useful do people find this? - KFL3A-400 400Hz 8-pole filter for CW (I'm anticipating I'll want this for contests/noisy conditions) - KFL3A-2.1K 2.1 KHz 8-pole filter for SSB (I'm anticipating I'll want this for working faint signals during noisy conditions) - KFL3A-2.8K 2.8 kHz 8-pole filter for the majority of operating I'm going with 8-pole filters to make it easier to add the sub-receiver someday should I want that. My main question is whether these are the right filters for my needs. Would I be better off with 1.8 kHz instead of 2.1 kHz? I know it's subjective, but I'm just trying to be practical and not waste money. Now, I also need recommendations on a boom-mic/headset. I see a lot of people here use the Yamaha CM500. Is this totally plug and play or do you have to make any mods to get it working with the K3? Thanks for the forthcoming recommendations and opinions! -Jeff, W6EZY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
