Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-26 Thread David Gilbert

Yup ... I was wrong again, but the trouble is I can't figure out why.  I 
mean, it's easy to verify the cloverleaf pattern with EZNEC and I have 
done so, but I know that I have modeled something similar with an 
off-center feed in the past and gotten an end-fire pattern.  As soon as 
I figure out what that was I'll come back here and try to clear up the 
confusion I have caused, but in the meantime let's all just agree that I 
don't know what I'm talking about.

sigh ...

73,
Dave   AB7E




On 8/25/2011 11:13 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 Sorry to interject, but a fullwave fed at the 25% point has a clover 
 leaf pattern.  It only has the two halfwaves in phase colinear 
 behavior when fed very near the center. Even fed at 45% it has a 
 significant cloverleaf lobe and a NULL in the center  Easy to verify 
 with any modeling program.  73, Guy.

 On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 8:37 PM, David Gilbert 
 xda...@cis-broadband.com mailto:xda...@cis-broadband.com wrote:


 Yes, Don ... you are totally correct.  For some reason I was thinking
 about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such
 antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of
 phase.  The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much
 different and give a cloverleaf pattern if it were end fed.  I
 wholeheartedly apologize for any confusion I may have created.

 73 and thanks for catching my mistake.

 Dave   AB7E


 On 8/24/2011 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a  4 leaf clover
  pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the
 ends.
  Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL
 Antenna
  Book.  The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the
  radiation from the end is almost zero.
 
  The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave
  dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is
  for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be
 greater).
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
 
  I'm not sure I see the advantage.  A full wave end fed antenna
 would
  theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and
 would
  additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high
 angle
  off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower
 angle.  If
  you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it
 really
  isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of
 coupling
  to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures.  Either that or
 there is a
  lot of loss in the system somewhere.
 
  73,
  Dave   AB7E
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-26 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
I've gotten to the point, that before I say anything about a model, I
actually run it and play with it, to make sure I haven't forgotten
something, or remembered something wrong.

As to that particular antenna a center fed half wave antenna is troublesome.
 The better version of that if one wants that pattern is the extended double
zepp, two 5/8 waves fed in phase, where you are feeding a lower impedance at
the center, and it's a far less cranky antenna. The double zepp maintains
its essential shape fed at 45% whereas the halfwave converts to cloverleaf.


That's ancient knowledge, garnered by experience in the 40's and 50's
without the benefit of software.  These days if you can't look it up for
free on the internet, it's forgotten.

73, Guy.

On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 12:17 PM, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.comwrote:


 Yup ... I was wrong again, but the trouble is I can't figure out why.  I
 mean, it's easy to verify the cloverleaf pattern with EZNEC and I have done
 so, but I know that I have modeled something similar with an off-center feed
 in the past and gotten an end-fire pattern.  As soon as I figure out what
 that was I'll come back here and try to clear up the confusion I have
 caused, but in the meantime let's all just agree that I don't know what I'm
 talking about.

 sigh ...

 73,
 Dave   AB7E





 On 8/25/2011 11:13 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

 Sorry to interject, but a fullwave fed at the 25% point has a clover leaf
 pattern.  It only has the two halfwaves in phase colinear behavior when fed
 very near the center. Even fed at 45% it has a significant cloverleaf lobe
 and a NULL in the center  Easy to verify with any modeling program.  73,
 Guy.

 On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 8:37 PM, David Gilbert 
 xda...@cis-broadband.comwrote:


 Yes, Don ... you are totally correct.  For some reason I was thinking
 about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such
 antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of
 phase.  The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much
 different and give a cloverleaf pattern if it were end fed.  I
 wholeheartedly apologize for any confusion I may have created.

 73 and thanks for catching my mistake.

 Dave   AB7E


 On 8/24/2011 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a  4 leaf clover
  pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends.
  Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna
  Book.  The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the
  radiation from the end is almost zero.
 
  The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave
  dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is
  for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater).
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
 
  I'm not sure I see the advantage.  A full wave end fed antenna would
  theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would
  additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle
  off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle.  If
  you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really
  isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling
  to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures.  Either that or there is
 a
  lot of loss in the system somewhere.
 
  73,
  Dave   AB7E
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-25 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Sorry to interject, but a fullwave fed at the 25% point has a clover leaf
pattern.  It only has the two halfwaves in phase colinear behavior when fed
very near the center. Even fed at 45% it has a significant cloverleaf lobe
and a NULL in the center  Easy to verify with any modeling program.  73,
Guy.

On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 8:37 PM, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.comwrote:


 Yes, Don ... you are totally correct.  For some reason I was thinking
 about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such
 antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of
 phase.  The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much
 different and give a cloverleaf pattern if it were end fed.  I
 wholeheartedly apologize for any confusion I may have created.

 73 and thanks for catching my mistake.

 Dave   AB7E


 On 8/24/2011 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a  4 leaf clover
  pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends.
  Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna
  Book.  The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the
  radiation from the end is almost zero.
 
  The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave
  dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is
  for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater).
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
 
  I'm not sure I see the advantage.  A full wave end fed antenna would
  theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would
  additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle
  off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle.  If
  you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really
  isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling
  to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures.  Either that or there is a
  lot of loss in the system somewhere.
 
  73,
  Dave   AB7E
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread Bob Willis
Another simple end fed antenna was described by W2FRH in QST, March 2011, A 
Near End-Fed Antenna... .  I just returned from a week at the Outer Banks and 
used this antenna with my K2 working DX from Europe and South America, plus 
several states.  No trees near the beach house so it was a sloper from the top 
deck to a fence post.  Measured SWR around 2:1 and the K2 matched to 1:1.

73 Bob K2GLS

I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
for portable use (like SOTA).  The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or
two 16' counterpoise wires.  It seems to work well for what it is and 10W.
I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by
the loss of the MFJ.  The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it
had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna.  In AUTO mode, it
only got the SWR down to about 5:1.  I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on
the 20m frequency.  I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1.  I added another foot of wire (now 36'),
and
it got down to about 1.5:1.  Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match
(1:1).  So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use.

Is this normal?  Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33'
halfwave antenna?  Thank you.

73,
Phl, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread William Ravenel
Steve Yates, AA5TB, has a very informative web page on EFHW antennas and how to 
build a parallel tuned circuit with a link coupled feed at the radio end to 
reduce the 1800 to 5000 ohm impedance to a 50 ohm non-reactive load. He has 
examples of both QRP and QRO versions of the circuit. I built the QRP version 
which uses a polyvaricon capacitor (available through Hendrix Kits among other 
sources) to create a very small tuning device that will match resonant End Fed 
half wavelength antennas on 40m, 30m, 20m, and 17m. I use it mostly with a 33 
foot wire on 20m raised on a 31 foot Jackite fiberglass pole and have had fun 
working DX with 5 watts. It is easy to change bands by exchanging the wire with 
one cut for the band of interest. I do not use a counterpoise and do not have 
any trouble at the rig. Steve explains why this works. For higher power a one 
meter counterpoise helps. I use this antenna with a K1 and K2, both with 
internal antenna tuners. The tuners are not needed, but I
  leave them activated to easily compensate for any small mismatch across the 
band.

Steve's page is found at http://aa5tb.com/efha.html

William Ravenel, AI4VE
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread stan levandowski
And for those with more money than brains (that would be me) you can 
purchase an end fed halfwave antenna from the Emergency Radio Club of 
Hawaii for $42.  I bought one and it works great with the entire 
Elecraft family. Great to have a simple yet efficient portable antenna 
that fits into a sandwich baggie.   This site also has the plans to 
build this one on your own if you would prefer.

The main website is at:  http://www.earchi.org/proj_homebrew.html

The page for building it yourself is at: 
http://www.earchi.org/pdf/endfed.pdf

And the page for the 'easy way out' is at: 
http://www.earchi.org/pdf/endfed20.pdf


73, Stan WB2LQF
KX1 #2411K1#2994K2# 6980K3#5244 K9 #1 (Cocoa the 
Chihuahua)
Everything is QRP, even the dog.





On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 9:54 AM, William Ravenel wrote:

 Steve Yates, AA5TB, has a very informative web page on EFHW antennas 
 and how to build a parallel tuned circuit with a link coupled feed at 
 the radio end to reduce the 1800 to 5000 ohm impedance to a 50 ohm 
 non-reactive load. He has examples of both QRP and QRO versions of the 
 circuit. I built the QRP version which uses a polyvaricon capacitor 
 (available through Hendrix Kits among other sources) to create a very 
 small tuning device that will match resonant End Fed half wavelength 
 antennas on 40m, 30m, 20m, and 17m. I use it mostly with a 33 foot 
 wire on 20m raised on a 31 foot Jackite fiberglass pole and have had 
 fun working DX with 5 watts. It is easy to change bands by exchanging 
 the wire with one cut for the band of interest. I do not use a 
 counterpoise and do not have any trouble at the rig. Steve explains 
 why this works. For higher power a one meter counterpoise helps. I use 
 this antenna with a K1 and K2, both with internal antenna tuners. The 
 tuners are not needed, but I
   leave them activated to easily compensate for any small mismatch 
 across the band.

 Steve's page is found at http://aa5tb.com/efha.html

 William Ravenel, AI4VE
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Stan, that's not a true half wave radiator on most bands. They suggest a
wire length of 20 or 30 feet, which will be efficient on 12 through 6 meters
where it's at least 1/2 wavelength long, but on the lower frequency bands
it's just a short random length wire with an auto-transformer to assist with
impedance matching. 

There's a huge difference between a full-size radiator and a short one that
is made resonant using supplemental inductance. It will work as you, I, or
anyone who has used a short, random length wire can attest, but it's
efficiency is much lower than a radiator that is physically a half
wavelength long. 

There's just nothing that can replace physical size for an efficient
antenna. Not too much is lost on even multiples of a half wavelength. The
impedance at a full wavelength, two wavelengths, etc., drops with each
multiple, but still remains far above that impedance of even a 1/4 wave
length radiator. And when dealing with any end-fed antenna worked against
ground, higher impedance at the end of the antenna means higher efficiency
for a given ground. 

73,

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

And for those with more money than brains (that would be me) you can 
purchase an end fed halfwave antenna from the Emergency Radio Club of 
Hawaii for $42.  I bought one and it works great with the entire 
Elecraft family. Great to have a simple yet efficient portable antenna 
that fits into a sandwich baggie.   This site also has the plans to 
build this one on your own if you would prefer.

The main website is at:  http://www.earchi.org/proj_homebrew.html

The page for building it yourself is at: 
http://www.earchi.org/pdf/endfed.pdf

And the page for the 'easy way out' is at: 
http://www.earchi.org/pdf/endfed20.pdf


73, Stan WB2LQF
KX1 #2411K1#2994K2# 6980K3#5244 K9 #1 (Cocoa the 
Chihuahua)
Everything is QRP, even the dog.


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread stan levandowski
Ron, the one I purchased for $42 is for 20 meters and came with a 33 
foot radiator.  A mathematical half wave at 14 MHz would work out to 
32.8 feet.  It did not come with a counterpoise nor was one recommended. 
It loaded up nicely for me as received.  I later tried a short 
counterpoise and did not note any difference in performance.   I use a 
short coax of about 12 feet for portable work.  It seems to work very 
well and only having to worry about hanging one end is convenient.  And 
the wire is a nice quality that resists tangling.

The documentation that came with mine warned that for 40 meter use, I'd 
need to replace the radiator with a 66 foot length and a wing nut 
arrangement is provided for that.  I've never tried it on 40 meters.

Ron, I'm no antenna expert (hence more money than brains) but I'd like 
to add that the precursor to this EFWHA came right out of the KX1 
documentation.  It's just a double BNC connector with a 28' radiator and 
a 33' counterpoise.  I moved to the EFHWA because I got tired of 
untangling the two wires.

In a side by side test, both antennas sounded the same to my ear.  I 
retired the double BNC affair in favor of the EFWHA because I figured 
the EFWHA was a more efficient radiator, as you pointed out.  Something 
my ears wouldn't necessarily disclose to me.

I apologize for not having re-read the material on those links I 
provided.  Apparently something has changed since I purchased mine.

73, Stan WB2LQF


On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 Stan, that's not a true half wave radiator on most bands. They suggest 
 a
 wire length of 20 or 30 feet, which will be efficient on 12 through 6 
 meters
 where it's at least 1/2 wavelength long, but on the lower frequency 
 bands
 it's just a short random length wire with an auto-transformer to 
 assist with
 impedance matching.
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
33 feet is a 1/2 wave on 20 meters all right. I was using the figures given in 
the homebrew article that suggested a much shorter wire.  

Yes, Wayne came up with the 28' radiator with 33'counerpoise as a combination 
that the little ATU in the KX1 could handle on all the bands it covers. The KX1 
ATU has a more limited matching range than most of the tuners, including the 
other tuners in Elecraft rigs, because there simply wasn't room for more 
inductor/capacitor combinations in very limited space available. 

73, 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Ron, the one I purchased for $42 is for 20 meters and came with a 33 
foot radiator.  A mathematical half wave at 14 MHz would work out to 
32.8 feet.  It did not come with a counterpoise nor was one recommended. 
It loaded up nicely for me as received.  I later tried a short 
counterpoise and did not note any difference in performance.   I use a 
short coax of about 12 feet for portable work.  It seems to work very 
well and only having to worry about hanging one end is convenient.  And 
the wire is a nice quality that resists tangling.

The documentation that came with mine warned that for 40 meter use, I'd 
need to replace the radiator with a 66 foot length and a wing nut 
arrangement is provided for that.  I've never tried it on 40 meters.

Ron, I'm no antenna expert (hence more money than brains) but I'd like 
to add that the precursor to this EFWHA came right out of the KX1 
documentation.  It's just a double BNC connector with a 28' radiator and 
a 33' counterpoise.  I moved to the EFHWA because I got tired of 
untangling the two wires.

In a side by side test, both antennas sounded the same to my ear.  I 
retired the double BNC affair in favor of the EFWHA because I figured 
the EFWHA was a more efficient radiator, as you pointed out.  Something 
my ears wouldn't necessarily disclose to me.

I apologize for not having re-read the material on those links I 
provided.  Apparently something has changed since I purchased mine.

73, Stan WB2LQF


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread Vic K2VCO
Just speculating -- I bet a half-wavelength wire in inverted-L configuration 
fed at the 
base with a parallel-tuned circuit would work well. The high-current part of 
the vertical 
piece would be at the top, there would be plenty of current in the horizontal 
part too, 
and very little local ground current.

On 8/24/2011 6:54 AM, William Ravenel wrote:
 Steve Yates, AA5TB, has a very informative web page on EFHW antennas and how 
 to build a
 parallel tuned circuit with a link coupled feed at the radio end to reduce 
 the 1800 to
 5000 ohm impedance to a 50 ohm non-reactive load. He has examples of both QRP 
 and QRO
 versions of the circuit. I built the QRP version which uses a polyvaricon 
 capacitor
 (available through Hendrix Kits among other sources) to create a very small 
 tuning
 device that will match resonant End Fed half wavelength antennas on 40m, 30m, 
 20m, and
 17m. I use it mostly with a 33 foot wire on 20m raised on a 31 foot Jackite 
 fiberglass
 pole and have had fun working DX with 5 watts. It is easy to change bands by 
 exchanging
 the wire with one cut for the band of interest. I do not use a counterpoise 
 and do not
 have any trouble at the rig. Steve explains why this works. For higher power 
 a one
 meter counterpoise helps. I use this antenna with a K1 and K2, both with 
 internal
 antenna tuners. The tuners are not needed, but I leave them activated to 
 easily
 compensate for any small mismatch across the band.

 Steve's page is found at http://aa5tb.com/efha.html

 William Ravenel, AI4VE 
 __

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread Niel Wiegand
Phil,

You might try a 67' length of wire (EFFW antenna). I've used that (and a 
32' EFHW) on 20 a lot with my K1 with the KAT1 installed...tunes to 
close to 1:1 just fine.

Have fun at Crater Lake. There are some neat places along the rim for 
hamming. It's a 2000 mile drive (one way) for me but I've gotten there 
twice within the past several years. See 
http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/qrp/CraterLake_july04.jpg  and 
http://w0vlz.blogspot.com/2009/08/after-three-weeks-5300-miles-and-12.html

73,
Niel - W0VLZ



 Message: 2
 Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:00:17 -0700
 From: Phillip Shepardph...@riousa.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
 To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID:lnejjggbopigkcikmckdeegoiaaa.ph...@riousa.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
 for portable use (like SOTA).  The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or
 two 16' counterpoise wires.  It seems to work well for what it is and 10W.
 I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by
 the loss of the MFJ.  The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it
 had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna.  In AUTO mode, it
 only got the SWR down to about 5:1.  I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
 long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on
 the 20m frequency.  I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
 got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1.  I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and
 it got down to about 1.5:1.  Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match
 (1:1).  So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use.

 Is this normal?  Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33'
 halfwave antenna?  Thank you.

 73,
 Phl, NS7P




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread David Gilbert


I'm not sure I see the advantage.  A full wave end fed antenna would 
theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would 
additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle 
off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle.  If 
you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really 
isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling 
to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures.  Either that or there is a 
lot of loss in the system somewhere.

73,
Dave   AB7E





On 8/24/2011 2:14 PM, Niel Wiegand wrote:
 Phil,

 You might try a 67' length of wire (EFFW antenna). I've used that (and a
 32' EFHW) on 20 a lot with my K1 with the KAT1 installed...tunes to
 close to 1:1 just fine.

 Have fun at Crater Lake. There are some neat places along the rim for
 hamming. It's a 2000 mile drive (one way) for me but I've gotten there
 twice within the past several years. See
 http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/qrp/CraterLake_july04.jpg  and
 http://w0vlz.blogspot.com/2009/08/after-three-weeks-5300-miles-and-12.html

 73,
 Niel - W0VLZ



 Message: 2
 Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:00:17 -0700
 From: Phillip Shepardph...@riousa.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
 To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID:lnejjggbopigkcikmckdeegoiaaa.ph...@riousa.com
 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

 I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
 for portable use (like SOTA).  The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or
 two 16' counterpoise wires.  It seems to work well for what it is and 10W.
 I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by
 the loss of the MFJ.  The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it
 had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna.  In AUTO mode, it
 only got the SWR down to about 5:1.  I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
 long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on
 the 20m frequency.  I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
 got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1.  I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and
 it got down to about 1.5:1.  Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match
 (1:1).  So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use.

 Is this normal?  Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33'
 halfwave antenna?  Thank you.

 73,
 Phl, NS7P


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a  4 leaf clover 
pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends.  
Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna 
Book.  The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the 
radiation from the end is almost zero.

The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave 
dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is for 
a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote:

 I'm not sure I see the advantage.  A full wave end fed antenna would
 theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would
 additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle
 off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle.  If
 you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really
 isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling
 to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures.  Either that or there is a
 lot of loss in the system somewhere.

 73,
 Dave   AB7E

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I believe you must get into several wavelengths before you get significant
end directivity from a long wire. My reference says that the angle of the
main lobe to the antenna is about 55 degrees when the wire is a wavelength
long, compared to 90 degrees at 1/2 wavelength. It takes a wire more than 7
wavelengths long for the angle of the main lobe to 20 degrees off of the
end. 

For a horizontal wire, the angle of maximum radiation with respect to the
horizon continues to be a function of height in wavelengths above ground.
So, for a given wire a specific height above ground, as the frequency goes
up, the lobes will slowly move toward the end and should be at an even
*lower* elevations in the higher frequencies since the wire is higher above
ground in terms of wavelengths. 

Of course one has to feed the wire. That's why most of us who use an end fed
wire have it arranged as an inverted L. Mine is about 40 feet vertical
from the rig, then 90 feet horizontally. So the radiation is a strong mix of
vertical and horizontal polarization. On my favorite band, 20 meters, the
vertical section is about optimum for low-angle vertical radiation and the
height is perfect for low angle horizontal radiation. It works very well
across the HF spectrum. I use an external homebrew tuner to provide physical
separation between the very RF hot (on some bands) end of the wire and the
rig (and me at the rig).

As for impedance, it will be highest and 1/2 wavelength and diminish at
longer lengths. Cranking a sample antenna into EZNEC shows that the
impedance of a typical real-world wire at 1/4 wavelength long is about 35
ohms as expected. At 1/2 wave it's about 1500 ohms. At 1 wavelength it's
about 800 ohms. At 2 wavelength it's about 300 ohms, and so on. Of course
many things affect the actual impedance including the diameter of the
radiator itself. 

Ron AC7AC 


-Original Message-
I'm not sure I see the advantage.  A full wave end fed antenna would 
theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would 
additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle 
off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle.  If 
you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really 
isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling 
to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures.  Either that or there is a 
lot of loss in the system somewhere.

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 8/24/2011 2:14 PM, Niel Wiegand wrote:
 Phil,

 You might try a 67' length of wire (EFFW antenna). I've used that (and a
 32' EFHW) on 20 a lot with my K1 with the KAT1 installed...tunes to
 close to 1:1 just fine.

 Have fun at Crater Lake. There are some neat places along the rim for
 hamming. It's a 2000 mile drive (one way) for me but I've gotten there
 twice within the past several years. See
 http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/qrp/CraterLake_july04.jpg  and
 http://w0vlz.blogspot.com/2009/08/after-three-weeks-5300-miles-and-12.html

 73,
 Niel - W0VLZ

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-24 Thread David Gilbert

Yes, Don ... you are totally correct.  For some reason I was thinking 
about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such 
antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of 
phase.  The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much 
different and give a cloverleaf pattern if it were end fed.  I 
wholeheartedly apologize for any confusion I may have created.

73 and thanks for catching my mistake.

Dave   AB7E


On 8/24/2011 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a  4 leaf clover 
 pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends.  
 Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna 
 Book.  The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the 
 radiation from the end is almost zero.

 The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave 
 dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is 
 for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater).

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote:

 I'm not sure I see the advantage.  A full wave end fed antenna would
 theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would
 additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle
 off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle.  If
 you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really
 isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling
 to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures.  Either that or there is a
 lot of loss in the system somewhere.

 73,
 Dave   AB7E


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-23 Thread Bill W4ZV

Phillip Shepard wrote:
 I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
 long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending
 on
 the 20m frequency.  I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
 got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1.  I added another foot of wire (now 36'),
 and
 it got down to about 1.5:1.  Five or six feet added yielded a perfect
 match
 (1:1).  So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use.
 
 Is this normal?  Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33'
 halfwave antenna?  Thank you.
 

Probably normal.  End-fed half-wave antennas are 4-5000 ohms impedance, so
you're asking the tuner to match an 80-100:1 SWR which is beyond the range
of most tuners.

73,  Bill


--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-S-meter-oddities-tp6676870p6718255.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-23 Thread David Gilbert

The simple answer to your question is no.  An end fed halfwave would 
theoretically present a few thousand ohms to your feedline, giving you 
an SWR of several tens to one.

Consider this  it is likely that the tuner with the greater loss 
will more easily give you a match to a difficult load.

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 8/23/2011 4:00 PM, Phillip Shepard wrote:
 I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
 for portable use (like SOTA).  The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or
 two 16' counterpoise wires.  It seems to work well for what it is and 10W.
 I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by
 the loss of the MFJ.  The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it
 had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna.  In AUTO mode, it
 only got the SWR down to about 5:1.  I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
 long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on
 the 20m frequency.  I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
 got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1.  I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and
 it got down to about 1.5:1.  Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match
 (1:1).  So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use.

 Is this normal?  Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33'
 halfwave antenna?  Thank you.

 73,
 Phl, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
But, on the positive side, that very high impedance means an unusually
efficient antenna since there is almost no ground current flowing at all. 

I use a setup like that at my home station - 1/2 wavelength long wire on 80
meters - with a homebrew manual L-network. Does a great job. 

One reason why small auto-tuners cannot handle that huge impedance is
because of the voltages involved. Thousands of volts commonly exist even
with fairly low power. The capacitors and inductors in most automatic tuners
simply aren't rated for that.

Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna


The simple answer to your question is no.  An end fed halfwave would 
theoretically present a few thousand ohms to your feedline, giving you 
an SWR of several tens to one.

Consider this  it is likely that the tuner with the greater loss 
will more easily give you a match to a difficult load.

73,
Dave   AB7E


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-23 Thread Don Wilhelm
Phil,

As others have responded, attempting to tune the end of a half-wave wire 
is beyond the range of most tuners, including the KAT2.
Your added wire provided a compromise length, because the feedpoint 
impedance was reduced.

Because the impedance of the EFHW is high, my favorite tuning section 
for a half wave antenna is a parallel tuned tank circuit - the radiator 
connects to one side of the parallel circuit  and your counterpoise (or 
ground) connects to the cold end.  Tune the paralled tank circuit for 
resonance near the operating frequency (and make it a permanent part of 
the antenna).  Then wrap a few turns around the ground end of the 
inductor and use that link to connect to the KAT2.  The fixed tuned 
circuit will handle the high impedance, and the impedance of the link 
will be much lower (depends on the square of the turns ratio).  The KAT2 
will do the job of matching into that link as you move about the band.

In other words, you make a fixed tuner that becomes part of your EFHW 
dipole (no variable capacitor to tune the antenna - use a fixed 
capacitor that resonates with the inductor approximately mid-band.  The 
KAT2 will tune quite nicely into the link winding and produce a low SWR.

The alternative is to use a non-resonant wire length that provides a 
sufficiently low impedance as to be within the matching range of the 
tuner.  The W3EDP antenna is one of those examples.  Use that approach 
if you want to use the same antenna wire for multiple bands.  As I 
recall, the W3EDP radiator is 85 feet long and the counterpoise is 17 
feet for use on 80 meters and up.  Half those lengths would work on 40 
and up.  I look at the W3EDP as sort-of an off-center-fed dipole - 
the counterpoise does not have to be on the ground to work well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/23/2011 7:00 PM, Phillip Shepard wrote:
 I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
 for portable use (like SOTA).  The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or
 two 16' counterpoise wires.  It seems to work well for what it is and 10W.
 I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by
 the loss of the MFJ.  The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it
 had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna.  In AUTO mode, it
 only got the SWR down to about 5:1.  I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
 long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on
 the 20m frequency.  I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
 got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1.  I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and
 it got down to about 1.5:1.  Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match
 (1:1).  So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use.

 Is this normal?  Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33'
 halfwave antenna?  Thank you.

 73,
 Phl, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-23 Thread Phillip Shepard
Thanks for all of the great advice.  This reflector is a fountain of
knowledge!  I checked the 33' antenna/16' counterpoise combination with an
MFJ259B, and it indicated over 25:1 SWR.  Extending the antenna to 39' and
adding a second radial of 6' gave an SWR reading of about 11:1 with the
antenna analyzer.  The KAT2 seems to handle that much better.  This will get
me through one or two SOTA peaks at Crater Lake later this week; and I can
look for better solutions after that.  Thanks again.

73,

Phil, NS7P

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Phillip Shepard
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna


I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
for portable use (like SOTA).  The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or
two 16' counterpoise wires.  It seems to work well for what it is and 10W.
I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by
the loss of the MFJ.  The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it
had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna.  In AUTO mode, it
only got the SWR down to about 5:1.  I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on
the 20m frequency.  I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1.  I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and
it got down to about 1.5:1.  Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match
(1:1).  So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use.

Is this normal?  Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33'
halfwave antenna?  Thank you.

73,
Phl, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna

2011-08-23 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
An EFHW is a very efficient antenna, but the usual tuner needs help.  One
way to use the EFHW is to put a toroidal winding at the base of the antenna,
between the tuner and the antenna. Bifilar or trifilar or quadrifilar
windings configured as a tapped winding will reduce the tough impedance to
something that the tuner will handle easily.

The 80 meter version of this, an end-fed half-wave L fed against ground is
probably the best single wire antenna for 80 meters that there is.

73, Guy.

On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 11:50 PM, Phillip Shepard ph...@riousa.com wrote:

 Thanks for all of the great advice.  This reflector is a fountain of
 knowledge!  I checked the 33' antenna/16' counterpoise combination with an
 MFJ259B, and it indicated over 25:1 SWR.  Extending the antenna to 39' and
 adding a second radial of 6' gave an SWR reading of about 11:1 with the
 antenna analyzer.  The KAT2 seems to handle that much better.  This will
 get
 me through one or two SOTA peaks at Crater Lake later this week; and I can
 look for better solutions after that.  Thanks again.

 73,

 Phil, NS7P

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Phillip Shepard
 Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:00 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna


 I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
 for portable use (like SOTA).  The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or
 two 16' counterpoise wires.  It seems to work well for what it is and 10W.
 I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by
 the loss of the MFJ.  The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it
 had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna.  In AUTO mode, it
 only got the SWR down to about 5:1.  I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
 long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on
 the 20m frequency.  I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
 got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1.  I added another foot of wire (now 36'),
 and
 it got down to about 1.5:1.  Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match
 (1:1).  So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use.

 Is this normal?  Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33'
 halfwave antenna?  Thank you.

 73,
 Phl, NS7P

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