Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-18 Thread Lee Hart via EV

Michael Ross via EV wrote:

There are probably no definitive limits to either battery balancer or BMS...
But we call a series of batteries a battery just to be imprecise.


There is *definitely* no standard terminology. Sellers take Humpty 
Dumpty's advice -- When I use a word, Humpty Dumpty said in rather a 
scornful tone, it means just what I choose it to mean — neither more 
nor less. :-)


Researchers are careful to define their terms. But the general public 
(and hobby EVers) are pretty loose with their terminology. Terms like 
battery, cell, volts, amps, amphours, watts, watthours, BMS etc. are 
misused all the time.



To me a BMS also manages charge and discharge cut off, as well as
balancing. I suppose it could also have a built in charger, but that is not
what I think when someone says, that there BMS.  There are notification
and warning functions, value readouts, etc. that could also be in a
system.  A battery balancer that does none of these other things is still a
battery balancer to me, but wouldn't be a BMS.

There should probably be a cell balancer, and BMS.


There are *many* things that should be monitored and managed in a 
complex battery system with many cells. Some are important (safety)! 
Others less so (range, life). There are also economic factors, and 
driver interest (or indifference).


A modern ICE is a very complex piece of machinery. A huge number of 
things need to be monitored and controlled to make it work right. But 
people are used to all this being hidden, and handled by computers. All 
the driver is left with is a check engine light.


Consumers tend to look at batteries the same way. They want to ignore 
all that stuff about voltages, currents, amphours, temperatures, balance 
between cells, etc. Buy a magic black box that hides it all.


There are lots of people only too happy to provide such a black box 
solution. The problem is that you won't *know* if it works (until it's 
too late).


If the previous owner of your car defeated the check engine light, how 
long before you notice that it's out of oil or antifreeze? And what 
shape will the engine be in when you *do* find out?

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[EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Pestka, Dennis J via EV
Has anyone heard of this company, or have any experience with them.

http://www.thehybridshop.com/battery-conditioning/how-hybrid-battery-conditioning-works-science/

A friend has a 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid, and his batteries are starting to show 
signs of old age.

To replace the pack at the dealer is $5000 vs. $1000 - $1500 to recondition 
them.

Sounds like voodoo to me, but I have no experience with nickel metal hybrid 
batteries.

Need to know if this is really a viable alternative.

Thanks;
Dennis
Elsberry, MO
http://www.evalbum.com/1366
http://evalbum.com/3715




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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Paul Dove via EV
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_restore_nickel_based_batteries

Sent from my iPad

 On Nov 17, 2014, at 5:57 AM, Pestka, Dennis J via EV ev@lists.evdl.org 
 wrote:
 
 Has anyone heard of this company, or have any experience with them.
 
 http://www.thehybridshop.com/battery-conditioning/how-hybrid-battery-conditioning-works-science/
 
 A friend has a 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid, and his batteries are starting to 
 show signs of old age.
 
 To replace the pack at the dealer is $5000 vs. $1000 - $1500 to recondition 
 them.
 
 Sounds like voodoo to me, but I have no experience with nickel metal hybrid 
 batteries.
 
 Need to know if this is really a viable alternative.
 
 Thanks;
 Dennis
 Elsberry, MO
 http://www.evalbum.com/1366
 http://evalbum.com/3715
 
 
 
 
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Michael Ross via EV
Paul,

They are about the only game in town.  I have looked briefly at their web
stuff and I think they know what they are doing.  They seem to build and/or
sell some test equipment - implying some expertise.

Tomorrow I am visiting a community college (Blue Ridge in Flat Rock NC)
that has a pretty extensive training program for working on Prius.   They
also work on the battery packs. If he is near there he might get a good
deal from BRCC, or lean about trained mechanics.

I will ask the people at BRCC what they know about The Hybrid Shop.
However, I will be out of cell and internet range until next Monday.

You could ask THS what they do for $1500, and see if it makes sense.  I
believe the check the pack pretty thoroughly, and replace any bad cells -
what the means regarding NiMH  I do not know.  Presumably they would have
to balance the pack within some range, reject cells that degrade overall
pack function and cycle life, etc.  If they are comparing the servicing of
the pack to new ones they must be pretty good when it is all done.





On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 7:06 AM, Paul Dove via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:


 http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_restore_nickel_based_batteries

 Sent from my iPad

  On Nov 17, 2014, at 5:57 AM, Pestka, Dennis J via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:
 
  Has anyone heard of this company, or have any experience with them.
 
 
 http://www.thehybridshop.com/battery-conditioning/how-hybrid-battery-conditioning-works-science/
 
  A friend has a 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid, and his batteries are starting
 to show signs of old age.
 
  To replace the pack at the dealer is $5000 vs. $1000 - $1500 to
 recondition them.
 
  Sounds like voodoo to me, but I have no experience with nickel metal
 hybrid batteries.
 
  Need to know if this is really a viable alternative.
 
  Thanks;
  Dennis
  Elsberry, MO
  http://www.evalbum.com/1366
  http://evalbum.com/3715
 
 
 
 
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread EVDL Administrator via EV
From the webpage description, it sounds like they know what they're doing, 
though I have no way to judge whether they're using appropriate criteria for 
deciding which modules are defective.

Alas, any time you fix a declining EV battery by replacing the worst cells 
or blocks, rather than all of them, you have no way to know what other cells 
or blocks might turn toes up next week, next month, or next year.  

I've done what they describe with lead EV batteries, replacing blocks as 
they fail.  With that situation it's mostly a losing game, because once a 
couple blocks die, the rest usually aren't far behind.  

Coincidentally, this is a NiMH question I'm facing too.  I have a 36v 10ah 
NiMH e-bike battery here that's on its last legs. I've been debating whether 
to (a) replace just the bum cells and see how it goes, (b) replace all the 
cells, or (c) gut the battery and try lithium cells instead.  (Tenergy 
brand tabbed D-size cells are around $9 each plus shipping; other brands are 
much more expensive, if you can even find them with tabs.)

I'll be interested to hear from anyone who has experience doing this with 
NiMH in EVs.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread paul dove via EV
You all need to read the link I posted.

It explains how to recondition Nickle based batteries.

It also explains the failure mechanism and why this works.




 From: EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org 
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning
 

From the webpage description, it sounds like they know what they're doing, 
though I have no way to judge whether they're using appropriate criteria for 
deciding which modules are defective.

Alas, any time you fix a declining EV battery by replacing the worst cells 
or blocks, rather than all of them, you have no way to know what other cells 
or blocks might turn toes up next week, next month, or next year.  

I've done what they describe with lead EV batteries, replacing blocks as 
they fail.  With that situation it's mostly a losing game, because once a 
couple blocks die, the rest usually aren't far behind.  

Coincidentally, this is a NiMH question I'm facing too.  I have a 36v 10ah 
NiMH e-bike battery here that's on its last legs. I've been debating whether 
to (a) replace just the bum cells and see how it goes, (b) replace all the 
cells, or (c) gut the battery and try lithium cells instead.  (Tenergy 
brand tabbed D-size cells are around $9 each plus shipping; other brands are 
much more expensive, if you can even find them with tabs.)

I'll be interested to hear from anyone who has experience doing this with 
NiMH in EVs.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Michael Ross via EV
On this topic - reconditioning Prius packs.  During the visit I am making
tomorrow to the Prius repair classes at Blue Ridge Community College...
what questions do you think I should ask them there to see how they are
managing their repairs of Prius packs?

The answers might be interesting to Dennis Pestka as well.

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 10:15 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV 
ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 From the webpage description, it sounds like they know what they're doing,
 though I have no way to judge whether they're using appropriate criteria
 for
 deciding which modules are defective.

 Alas, any time you fix a declining EV battery by replacing the worst cells
 or blocks, rather than all of them, you have no way to know what other
 cells
 or blocks might turn toes up next week, next month, or next year.

 I've done what they describe with lead EV batteries, replacing blocks as
 they fail.  With that situation it's mostly a losing game, because once a
 couple blocks die, the rest usually aren't far behind.

 Coincidentally, this is a NiMH question I'm facing too.  I have a 36v 10ah
 NiMH e-bike battery here that's on its last legs. I've been debating
 whether
 to (a) replace just the bum cells and see how it goes, (b) replace all the
 cells, or (c) gut the battery and try lithium cells instead.  (Tenergy
 brand tabbed D-size cells are around $9 each plus shipping; other brands
 are
 much more expensive, if you can even find them with tabs.)

 I'll be interested to hear from anyone who has experience doing this with
 NiMH in EVs.

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

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 EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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 reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
 email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
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Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
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To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
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(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Michael Ross via EV
I have to say, I am wary of The Battery Universit regarding Li ion
batteries.  I have seen some incorrect information there.  Maybe they are
fine WRT Prius and NiMH - but I am just sayin'...

 To me their rep is not pure and unsoiled..

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 11:37 AM, paul dove via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:

 You all need to read the link I posted.

 It explains how to recondition Nickle based batteries.

 It also explains the failure mechanism and why this works.



 
  From: EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org
 Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 9:15 AM
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning


 From the webpage description, it sounds like they know what they're doing,
 though I have no way to judge whether they're using appropriate criteria
 for
 deciding which modules are defective.

 Alas, any time you fix a declining EV battery by replacing the worst cells
 or blocks, rather than all of them, you have no way to know what other
 cells
 or blocks might turn toes up next week, next month, or next year.

 I've done what they describe with lead EV batteries, replacing blocks as
 they fail.  With that situation it's mostly a losing game, because once a
 couple blocks die, the rest usually aren't far behind.

 Coincidentally, this is a NiMH question I'm facing too.  I have a 36v 10ah
 NiMH e-bike battery here that's on its last legs. I've been debating
 whether
 to (a) replace just the bum cells and see how it goes, (b) replace all the
 cells, or (c) gut the battery and try lithium cells instead.  (Tenergy
 brand tabbed D-size cells are around $9 each plus shipping; other brands
 are
 much more expensive, if you can even find them with tabs.)

 I'll be interested to hear from anyone who has experience doing this with
 NiMH in EVs.

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
 EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
 Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not
 reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
 email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .



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Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 550-2430 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
(919) 631-1451 Cell
(919) 513-0418 Desk

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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Lee Hart via EV

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 7:06 AM, Paul Dove via EVev@lists.evdl.org  wrote:

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_restore_nickel_based_batteries


Just be aware that you can take *any* battery and charge it hard to get 
a (temporary) improvement in its amphour capacity.


The problem is that it doesn't last. Hybrids in particular are very 
careful how they charge and discharge their batteries, to maximize life. 
Hybrid batteries are considered part of the emission control system, so 
automakers are required to warrant the battery for 100k miles. This 
won't happen if you use it hard.


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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Lee Hart via EV

paul dove via EV wrote:

You all need to read the link I posted.
It explains how to recondition Nickle based batteries.
It also explains the failure mechanism and why this works.


I did read it, Paul. The Cadex info is old science, and is mainly 
relevant to old-style nicads from decades ago. The Hybridshop data is 
99% marketing eyewash, written to sound wonderful.


As I said, *any* battery's capacity will temporarily improve just by 
cycling it deeper than it is usually cycled. But the improvement won't 
last. If all you're trying to do is eke a little more life out of a 
pack, that may be sufficient. But you're paying a high price for that 
small extension.


--
Obsolete (Ob-so-LETE). Adjective. 1. Something that is simple,
reliable, straightforward, readily available, easy to use, and
affordable. 2. Not what the salesman wants you to buy.
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Lee Hart via EV

EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:

Alas, any time you fix a declining EV battery by replacing the worst cells
or blocks, rather than all of them, you have no way to know what other cells
or blocks might turn toes up next week, next month, or next year.


That's true. However, it is also true that the one cell that failed may 
have been infant mortality. It could have died young due to some 
quality defect or temporary abuse (like excessively discharging the 
pack, which killed the weakest cell). If you replace it, you can keep 
right on using the rest of the pack for an extended period.



I've done what they describe with lead EV batteries, replacing blocks as
they fail.  With that situation it's mostly a losing game, because once a
couple blocks die, the rest usually aren't far behind.


This is often true because the driver and the battery charger don't 
*know* there's a problem. For example, if one cell shorts, the charger 
blindly charges the remaining pack to the full voltage that was needed 
with all cells good. That overcharges the remaining good cells, driving 
them into an early grave.



Coincidentally, this is a NiMH question I'm facing too. I have a 36v 10ah
NiMH e-bike battery here that's on its last legs. I've been debating whether
to (a) replace just the bum cells and see how it goes, (b) replace all the
cells, or (c) gut the battery and try lithium cells instead.


If the original cells were high quality, they would all have been well 
matched. When one of them fails, the rest may not be far behind because 
they are all so much alike. For example, I've tested Prius nimh modules; 
even my 10-year-old ones are as alike as peas in a pod.


If the pack is made from el-cheapo cells with negligible quality 
control, you could easily have a few lemons that died young, and are 
making the whole pack look bad. For example, I tested a set of ten 12v 
7ah batteries from an anonymous Chinese manufacturer in a UPS; 4 were 
junk, and the remaining 6 varied from 1.7ah to 4.2ah. I was able to 
replace the 5 worst, and keep using the remaining 5.


The only way to know for sure is to TEST. Test each cell or battery, and 
see what you've got. If they are all low in capacity, then it's time to 
replace the pack. If only one or two are significantly worse than the 
rest, replace them and keep going. :-)

--
Obsolete (Ob-so-LETE). Adjective. 1. Something that is simple,
reliable, straightforward, readily available, easy to use, and
affordable. 2. Not what the salesman wants you to buy.
--
Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Michael Ross via EV
Lee said: The only way to know for sure is to TEST. Test each cell or
battery, and see what you've got. If they are all low in capacity, then
it's time to replace the pack. If only one or two are significantly worse
than the rest, replace them and keep going. :-)

This was my assumption.  I will be interested to see if the school or
Hybrid Shop goes to this much trouble.

If we were to estimate the labor required to test a Prius pack -
what would that look like?  Would it be any where near sat $1000?

I would like to take a critical eye into these visits, but I have never
looked close or far at a Prius pack.

mike

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 1:33 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:

 Alas, any time you fix a declining EV battery by replacing the worst cells
 or blocks, rather than all of them, you have no way to know what other
 cells
 or blocks might turn toes up next week, next month, or next year.


 That's true. However, it is also true that the one cell that failed may
 have been infant mortality. It could have died young due to some quality
 defect or temporary abuse (like excessively discharging the pack, which
 killed the weakest cell). If you replace it, you can keep right on using
 the rest of the pack for an extended period.

  I've done what they describe with lead EV batteries, replacing blocks as
 they fail.  With that situation it's mostly a losing game, because once a
 couple blocks die, the rest usually aren't far behind.


 This is often true because the driver and the battery charger don't *know*
 there's a problem. For example, if one cell shorts, the charger blindly
 charges the remaining pack to the full voltage that was needed with all
 cells good. That overcharges the remaining good cells, driving them into an
 early grave.

  Coincidentally, this is a NiMH question I'm facing too. I have a 36v 10ah
 NiMH e-bike battery here that's on its last legs. I've been debating
 whether
 to (a) replace just the bum cells and see how it goes, (b) replace all the
 cells, or (c) gut the battery and try lithium cells instead.


 If the original cells were high quality, they would all have been well
 matched. When one of them fails, the rest may not be far behind because
 they are all so much alike. For example, I've tested Prius nimh modules;
 even my 10-year-old ones are as alike as peas in a pod.

 If the pack is made from el-cheapo cells with negligible quality control,
 you could easily have a few lemons that died young, and are making the
 whole pack look bad. For example, I tested a set of ten 12v 7ah batteries
 from an anonymous Chinese manufacturer in a UPS; 4 were junk, and the
 remaining 6 varied from 1.7ah to 4.2ah. I was able to replace the 5 worst,
 and keep using the remaining 5.

 The only way to know for sure is to TEST. Test each cell or battery, and
 see what you've got. If they are all low in capacity, then it's time to
 replace the pack. If only one or two are significantly worse than the rest,
 replace them and keep going. :-)
 --
 Obsolete (Ob-so-LETE). Adjective. 1. Something that is simple,
 reliable, straightforward, readily available, easy to use, and
 affordable. 2. Not what the salesman wants you to buy.
 --
 Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
 ___
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-- 
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happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 550-2430 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
(919) 631-1451 Cell
(919) 513-0418 Desk

michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Michael Ross via EV
Here is one test unit available for Prius packs:

http://www.go2hev.com/hybrid-vehicle-battery-testing-and-analysis-kit.html

The maker Automotive Research  Design (what an instructive name) does more
than just produce this test unit - they do a lot of training of mechanics
by various means.

http://www.go2hev.com/home.html


OEM cell test equipment seems to come from ARBIN

http://www.arbin.com/


On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 2:29 PM, Michael Ross michael.e.r...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Lee said: The only way to know for sure is to TEST. Test each cell or
 battery, and see what you've got. If they are all low in capacity, then
 it's time to replace the pack. If only one or two are significantly worse
 than the rest, replace them and keep going. :-)

 This was my assumption.  I will be interested to see if the school or
 Hybrid Shop goes to this much trouble.

 If we were to estimate the labor required to test a Prius pack -
 what would that look like?  Would it be any where near sat $1000?

 I would like to take a critical eye into these visits, but I have never
 looked close or far at a Prius pack.

 mike

 On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 1:33 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:

 EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:

 Alas, any time you fix a declining EV battery by replacing the worst
 cells
 or blocks, rather than all of them, you have no way to know what other
 cells
 or blocks might turn toes up next week, next month, or next year.


 That's true. However, it is also true that the one cell that failed may
 have been infant mortality. It could have died young due to some quality
 defect or temporary abuse (like excessively discharging the pack, which
 killed the weakest cell). If you replace it, you can keep right on using
 the rest of the pack for an extended period.

  I've done what they describe with lead EV batteries, replacing blocks as
 they fail.  With that situation it's mostly a losing game, because once a
 couple blocks die, the rest usually aren't far behind.


 This is often true because the driver and the battery charger don't
 *know* there's a problem. For example, if one cell shorts, the charger
 blindly charges the remaining pack to the full voltage that was needed with
 all cells good. That overcharges the remaining good cells, driving them
 into an early grave.

  Coincidentally, this is a NiMH question I'm facing too. I have a 36v 10ah
 NiMH e-bike battery here that's on its last legs. I've been debating
 whether
 to (a) replace just the bum cells and see how it goes, (b) replace all
 the
 cells, or (c) gut the battery and try lithium cells instead.


 If the original cells were high quality, they would all have been well
 matched. When one of them fails, the rest may not be far behind because
 they are all so much alike. For example, I've tested Prius nimh modules;
 even my 10-year-old ones are as alike as peas in a pod.

 If the pack is made from el-cheapo cells with negligible quality control,
 you could easily have a few lemons that died young, and are making the
 whole pack look bad. For example, I tested a set of ten 12v 7ah batteries
 from an anonymous Chinese manufacturer in a UPS; 4 were junk, and the
 remaining 6 varied from 1.7ah to 4.2ah. I was able to replace the 5 worst,
 and keep using the remaining 5.

 The only way to know for sure is to TEST. Test each cell or battery, and
 see what you've got. If they are all low in capacity, then it's time to
 replace the pack. If only one or two are significantly worse than the rest,
 replace them and keep going. :-)
 --
 Obsolete (Ob-so-LETE). Adjective. 1. Something that is simple,
 reliable, straightforward, readily available, easy to use, and
 affordable. 2. Not what the salesman wants you to buy.
 --
 Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
 ___
 UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
 http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
 For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/
 group/NEDRA)




 --
 Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
 happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
 *Dalai Lama *

 Tell me what it is you plan to do
 With your one wild and precious life?
 Mary Oliver, The summer day.

 To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
 Thomas A. Edison
 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

 A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
 *Warren Buffet*

 Michael E. Ross
 (919) 550-2430 Land
 (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google
 Phone
 (919) 631-1451 Cell
 (919) 513-0418 Desk

 michael.e.r...@gmail.com
 michael.e.r...@gmail.com





-- 
Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good 

Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread EVDL Administrator via EV
On 17 Nov 2014 at 8:37, paul dove via EV wrote:

 You all need to read the link I posted.
 
 It explains how to recondition Nickle based batteries.
 
 It also explains the failure mechanism and why this works.

I did read that page.  It may be accurate - I'm not an electrochemist - but 
it reminds me of the woo-woo that lead battery pulse charging advocates use 
to explain why their chargers (like all other chargers!) temporarily improve 
battery capacity.

That said, though I don't know about the physics of it, Saft for one does 
recommend re-conditioning their large flooded cells when they have declined 
in capacity.  

Note that I hyphenated re-conditioning.  Large NiCd cells and monoblocks, 
as used in some EVs, aircraft, and locomotives, are normally shipped 
uncharged. When they're installed, they require a procedure callled a 
commissioning or conditioning charge.  (For the small cells you get in and 
for portable gadgets, this is done at the factory.)  

For this, Saft specifies a 14 hour 0.1C constant current charge.  If you do 
the math, you see that this is essentially a 40% overcharge.  (FWIW, Saft 
recommends a 20% overcharge on every normal charging cycle.  This is for 
their non-recombinant open cells, not the MR blocks.)

Re-conditioning is (duh) just repeating this conditioning process.  

Again going from Saft's instructions, the block or battery is discharged at 
a controlled low rate (Saft says 0.2C) to below 1.0 volts per cell ( 5v for 
a 6v nominal monoblock).  

Once flat, the battery is given a fresh conditioning charge.  Saft says that 
for re-conditioning you can use 0.2C for 7 hours, instead of 0.1C for 14 
hours, if you're short on time.

One thing I should point out.  Re-conditioning as the term is used in NiCd 
(and possibly NiMH) battery maintenance is not what many car folks think of 
as reconditioning.  

That is, what these guys are doing to a NiMH battery for $1000+ is not 
really similar to having a shop rebuild your ICEV's alternator.  That 
rebuilt alternator will probably run about as long as a new one would, but 
your re-conditioned NiCd or NiMH battery almost certainly won't work as well 
or as long as a new one.

The Hybrid Shop say that they replace under-performing blocks.  I wonder 
whether they use new or used modules for replacements.

I also wonder how well re-conditioning works with sealed cells, as opposed 
to open (flooded) ones.  I own a Maha NiMH AA-cell charger that claims to do 
a re-conditioning cycle.  I admit I haven't used that cycle frequently, but 
I have yet to see it significantly improve any of my older NiMH cells' 
capacity.

Another little wrinkle here.  IIRC, Toyota's onboard software carries out a 
form of re-conditioning and/or equalization automatically on their hybrid 
batteries when the computer senses a loss of capacity.  

I haven't heard that this kind of mini-re-conditioning is done automatically 
on the (small number of) true Toyota EVs such as the RAV4-EVs.  Maybe 
someone else knows.

As to whether Ford's software does such a quickie tweak, I don't know that 
either, but you might want to find out.  If I'm not mistaken, for their 
early Escape hybrid, Ford bought the design (and possibly the hardware) 
from Toyota.  It was the design that Toyota had used in the first generation 
Prius, not the second generation.

Hope this helps.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not 
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my 
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Michael Ross via EV
I believe the RAV4 uses a Tesla made pack - Li ion I presume.

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 3:02 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV 
ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 On 17 Nov 2014 at 8:37, paul dove via EV wrote:

  You all need to read the link I posted.
 
  It explains how to recondition Nickle based batteries.
 
  It also explains the failure mechanism and why this works.

 I did read that page.  It may be accurate - I'm not an electrochemist - but
 it reminds me of the woo-woo that lead battery pulse charging advocates use
 to explain why their chargers (like all other chargers!) temporarily
 improve
 battery capacity.

 That said, though I don't know about the physics of it, Saft for one does
 recommend re-conditioning their large flooded cells when they have declined
 in capacity.

 Note that I hyphenated re-conditioning.  Large NiCd cells and monoblocks,
 as used in some EVs, aircraft, and locomotives, are normally shipped
 uncharged. When they're installed, they require a procedure callled a
 commissioning or conditioning charge.  (For the small cells you get in and
 for portable gadgets, this is done at the factory.)

 For this, Saft specifies a 14 hour 0.1C constant current charge.  If you do
 the math, you see that this is essentially a 40% overcharge.  (FWIW, Saft
 recommends a 20% overcharge on every normal charging cycle.  This is for
 their non-recombinant open cells, not the MR blocks.)

 Re-conditioning is (duh) just repeating this conditioning process.

 Again going from Saft's instructions, the block or battery is discharged at
 a controlled low rate (Saft says 0.2C) to below 1.0 volts per cell ( 5v
 for
 a 6v nominal monoblock).

 Once flat, the battery is given a fresh conditioning charge.  Saft says
 that
 for re-conditioning you can use 0.2C for 7 hours, instead of 0.1C for 14
 hours, if you're short on time.

 One thing I should point out.  Re-conditioning as the term is used in
 NiCd
 (and possibly NiMH) battery maintenance is not what many car folks think of
 as reconditioning.

 That is, what these guys are doing to a NiMH battery for $1000+ is not
 really similar to having a shop rebuild your ICEV's alternator.  That
 rebuilt alternator will probably run about as long as a new one would, but
 your re-conditioned NiCd or NiMH battery almost certainly won't work as
 well
 or as long as a new one.

 The Hybrid Shop say that they replace under-performing blocks.  I wonder
 whether they use new or used modules for replacements.

 I also wonder how well re-conditioning works with sealed cells, as opposed
 to open (flooded) ones.  I own a Maha NiMH AA-cell charger that claims to
 do
 a re-conditioning cycle.  I admit I haven't used that cycle frequently, but
 I have yet to see it significantly improve any of my older NiMH cells'
 capacity.

 Another little wrinkle here.  IIRC, Toyota's onboard software carries out a
 form of re-conditioning and/or equalization automatically on their hybrid
 batteries when the computer senses a loss of capacity.

 I haven't heard that this kind of mini-re-conditioning is done
 automatically
 on the (small number of) true Toyota EVs such as the RAV4-EVs.  Maybe
 someone else knows.

 As to whether Ford's software does such a quickie tweak, I don't know that
 either, but you might want to find out.  If I'm not mistaken, for their
 early Escape hybrid, Ford bought the design (and possibly the hardware)
 from Toyota.  It was the design that Toyota had used in the first
 generation
 Prius, not the second generation.

 Hope this helps.

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
 EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
 Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not
 reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
 email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


 ___
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 For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (
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-- 
Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 550-2430 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
(919) 631-1451 Cell
(919) 513-0418 Desk

michael.e.r...@gmail.com
michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Michael Ross via EV
What I really want to guess is - do we think they can actually do a  good
job of reconditioning a Pius pack for $1500?  What if there were some
problems with the pack? I am not trying to learn how to do it in a home
situation (maybe later), this is about - is it likely the ARD system
actually does good work?  You can see my problem - I don't know what good
work would look like for a Prius Pack.

Supposing a pack that is needing a lot of work.  Then you have testing,
probably some tear down and RR of cells.  I don't know what is in a Prius
pack - is there a charger? BMS?  All that is handled by the car's
electrical system?

Do we know how much Prius NiMH cells cost?  Used ones?  New?  A whole new
pack?

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 3:28 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 Michael Ross wrote:
  Here is one test unit available for Prius packs:
  http://www.go2hev.com/hybrid-vehicle-battery-testing-and-
 analysis-kit.html
 
  The maker Automotive Research  Design (what an instructive name) does
  more than just produce this test unit - they do a lot of training of
  mechanics by various means.
  http://www.go2hev.com/home.html
 
  OEM cell test equipment seems to come from ARBIN
  http://www.arbin.com/

 If you got the dough, then it's a go. But this tends to be expensive
 commercial equipment and training for professionals that will do this for a
 living.

  Lee said: The only way to know for sure is to TEST. Test each cell
  or battery, and see what you've got.
 
  This was my assumption.  I will be interested to see if the school or
  Hybrid Shop goes to this much trouble.

 Yes, this is a concern. I notice that the go2hev.com unit says it spends
 20 *seconds* doing the power test, and the graphs say the amphour test is
 similarly brief. Now if you're in a shop and working by the hour, you want
 the quickest possible test, regardless of its accuracy. But I have to
 wonder how accurate the data that you get from such a short test will be.

  If we were to estimate the labor required to test a Prius pack
  - what would that look like?  Would it be any where near sat $1000?

 A typical auto repair shop is likely to charge $100/hour. At that rate,
 $1000 is about 10 hours of work. They have to pay for all that equipment
 and testing, right?

 It can obviously be done far cheaper yourself, if you're willing to invest
 your time and a few dollars for simple equipment.

 A voltmeter, some light bulbs for a load, a commercial battery charger, a
 clock, and a clipboard are sufficient for basic testing. That's what I used
 to do. I learned a *lot* about batteries this way!

 Or, you can buy a simple battery tester/cycler, intended for the R/C model
 cars and planes. For example, I have a Model Rectifier Corp. Super Brain
 989. It tests lead-acid, nicad, nimh, or lithium cells or batteries up to
 about 24v and 20ah capacity. Cheap (and cheaply made), but it works
 adequately for hobby use. There are many similar units.

 Or, you can build my Battery Balancer (or something like it -- the plans
 are open source and on the web). It does what any battery tester has to do:
 Select a battery or module, charge it under known conditions, discharge it
 under known conditions, compare and record the results. I've been building
 and refining it for over 15 years! It's at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/
 balancer.htm

 --
 Don't worry about people stealing your ideas. If your ideas are any
 good, you'll have to ram them down people's throats. -- Howard Aiken
 --
 Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
 ___
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 For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/
 group/NEDRA)




-- 
Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 550-2430 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
(919) 631-1451 Cell
(919) 513-0418 Desk

michael.e.r...@gmail.com
michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Cor van de Water via EV
The original 1999-2000 Rav4-EV used 95Ah NiMH blocks
and these vehicles are still going strong...

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626


-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Michael Ross
via EV
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 12:15 PM
To: EVDL Administrator; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

I believe the RAV4 uses a Tesla made pack - Li ion I presume.

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 3:02 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV 
ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 On 17 Nov 2014 at 8:37, paul dove via EV wrote:

  You all need to read the link I posted.
 
  It explains how to recondition Nickle based batteries.
 
  It also explains the failure mechanism and why this works.

 I did read that page.  It may be accurate - I'm not an electrochemist
- but
 it reminds me of the woo-woo that lead battery pulse charging
advocates use
 to explain why their chargers (like all other chargers!) temporarily
 improve
 battery capacity.

 That said, though I don't know about the physics of it, Saft for one
does
 recommend re-conditioning their large flooded cells when they have
declined
 in capacity.

 Note that I hyphenated re-conditioning.  Large NiCd cells and
monoblocks,
 as used in some EVs, aircraft, and locomotives, are normally shipped
 uncharged. When they're installed, they require a procedure callled a
 commissioning or conditioning charge.  (For the small cells you get in
and
 for portable gadgets, this is done at the factory.)

 For this, Saft specifies a 14 hour 0.1C constant current charge.  If
you do
 the math, you see that this is essentially a 40% overcharge.  (FWIW,
Saft
 recommends a 20% overcharge on every normal charging cycle.  This is
for
 their non-recombinant open cells, not the MR blocks.)

 Re-conditioning is (duh) just repeating this conditioning process.

 Again going from Saft's instructions, the block or battery is
discharged at
 a controlled low rate (Saft says 0.2C) to below 1.0 volts per cell (
5v
 for
 a 6v nominal monoblock).

 Once flat, the battery is given a fresh conditioning charge.  Saft
says
 that
 for re-conditioning you can use 0.2C for 7 hours, instead of 0.1C for
14
 hours, if you're short on time.

 One thing I should point out.  Re-conditioning as the term is used
in
 NiCd
 (and possibly NiMH) battery maintenance is not what many car folks
think of
 as reconditioning.

 That is, what these guys are doing to a NiMH battery for $1000+ is not
 really similar to having a shop rebuild your ICEV's alternator.  That
 rebuilt alternator will probably run about as long as a new one would,
but
 your re-conditioned NiCd or NiMH battery almost certainly won't work
as
 well
 or as long as a new one.

 The Hybrid Shop say that they replace under-performing blocks.  I
wonder
 whether they use new or used modules for replacements.

 I also wonder how well re-conditioning works with sealed cells, as
opposed
 to open (flooded) ones.  I own a Maha NiMH AA-cell charger that claims
to
 do
 a re-conditioning cycle.  I admit I haven't used that cycle
frequently, but
 I have yet to see it significantly improve any of my older NiMH cells'
 capacity.

 Another little wrinkle here.  IIRC, Toyota's onboard software carries
out a
 form of re-conditioning and/or equalization automatically on their
hybrid
 batteries when the computer senses a loss of capacity.

 I haven't heard that this kind of mini-re-conditioning is done
 automatically
 on the (small number of) true Toyota EVs such as the RAV4-EVs.  Maybe
 someone else knows.

 As to whether Ford's software does such a quickie tweak, I don't know
that
 either, but you might want to find out.  If I'm not mistaken, for
their
 early Escape hybrid, Ford bought the design (and possibly the
hardware)
 from Toyota.  It was the design that Toyota had used in the first
 generation
 Prius, not the second generation.

 Hope this helps.

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Cor van de Water via EV
Indeed - EV converters that chose to use NiCd (especially the flooded
variant such as the ubiquitous Saft BB-600) found that capacity will
decline relatively rapidly while keeping the charge within 100-0% so
regularly they needed to completely discharge the pack (start with
driving it for their longest trip and then continue discharging, for
example with the heater)
Then they needed to charge 140% capacity which essentially restored all
previous lost capacity.

Prius senses balance within its pack (it monitors every second
connection between the 7.2V modules) and if they are out of balance, it
will first attempt a looong slow overcharge. You will notice this while
driving that the engine will not shut of for several hours (can be split
over several trips) so the car can do that 140% commissioning charge (it
never discharges since the pack is needed to start the car and you
cannot predict when the owner will turn it off). Once that is attempted
(probably more than once) and still unbalance is found in subsequent
normal use, the Prius will throw an error and request service because
its pack is on the way out (or a module is bad).

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626


-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of EVDL
Administrator via EV
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 12:03 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

On 17 Nov 2014 at 8:37, paul dove via EV wrote:

 You all need to read the link I posted.
 
 It explains how to recondition Nickle based batteries.
 
 It also explains the failure mechanism and why this works.

I did read that page.  It may be accurate - I'm not an electrochemist -
but 
it reminds me of the woo-woo that lead battery pulse charging advocates
use 
to explain why their chargers (like all other chargers!) temporarily
improve 
battery capacity.

That said, though I don't know about the physics of it, Saft for one
does 
recommend re-conditioning their large flooded cells when they have
declined 
in capacity.  

Note that I hyphenated re-conditioning.  Large NiCd cells and
monoblocks, 
as used in some EVs, aircraft, and locomotives, are normally shipped 
uncharged. When they're installed, they require a procedure callled a 
commissioning or conditioning charge.  (For the small cells you get in
and 
for portable gadgets, this is done at the factory.)  

For this, Saft specifies a 14 hour 0.1C constant current charge.  If you
do 
the math, you see that this is essentially a 40% overcharge.  (FWIW,
Saft 
recommends a 20% overcharge on every normal charging cycle.  This is for

their non-recombinant open cells, not the MR blocks.)

Re-conditioning is (duh) just repeating this conditioning process.  

Again going from Saft's instructions, the block or battery is discharged
at 
a controlled low rate (Saft says 0.2C) to below 1.0 volts per cell ( 5v
for 
a 6v nominal monoblock).  

Once flat, the battery is given a fresh conditioning charge.  Saft says
that 
for re-conditioning you can use 0.2C for 7 hours, instead of 0.1C for 14

hours, if you're short on time.

One thing I should point out.  Re-conditioning as the term is used in
NiCd 
(and possibly NiMH) battery maintenance is not what many car folks think
of 
as reconditioning.  

That is, what these guys are doing to a NiMH battery for $1000+ is not 
really similar to having a shop rebuild your ICEV's alternator.  That 
rebuilt alternator will probably run about as long as a new one would,
but 
your re-conditioned NiCd or NiMH battery almost certainly won't work as
well 
or as long as a new one.

The Hybrid Shop say that they replace under-performing blocks.  I
wonder 
whether they use new or used modules for replacements.

I also wonder how well re-conditioning works with sealed cells, as
opposed 
to open (flooded) ones.  I own a Maha NiMH AA-cell charger that claims
to do 
a re-conditioning cycle.  I admit I haven't used that cycle frequently,
but 
I have yet to see it significantly improve any of my older NiMH cells' 
capacity.

Another little wrinkle here.  IIRC, Toyota's onboard software carries
out a 
form of re-conditioning and/or equalization automatically on their
hybrid 
batteries when the computer senses a loss of capacity.  

I haven't heard that this kind of mini-re-conditioning is done
automatically 
on the (small number of) true Toyota EVs such as the RAV4-EVs.  Maybe 
someone else knows.

As to whether Ford's software does such a quickie tweak, I don't know
that 
either, but you might want to find out.  If I'm not mistaken, for their 
early Escape hybrid, Ford bought the design (and possibly the
hardware) 
from Toyota.  It was the design that Toyota had used in the first
generation 
Prius, not the second generation.

Hope this helps.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Ben Goren via EV
On Nov 17, 2014, at 1:28 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 Or, you can build my Battery Balancer (or something like it -- the plans are 
 open source and on the web). It does what any battery tester has to do: 
 Select a battery or module, charge it under known conditions, discharge it 
 under known conditions, compare and record the results. I've been building 
 and refining it for over 15 years! It's at 
 http://www.sunrise-ev.com/balancer.htm

I might be a bit confused by the terminology you're using. Is that not a BMS, 
a Battery Management System?

Seems to me like it might be rather more sophisticated than many of the ones 
I've looked at, but it looks like they're both doing the same thing.

...and, if so, yours is definitely on the short list for consideration when I 
get to that stage of the project

b
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Re: [EVDL] Hybrid battery reconditioning

2014-11-17 Thread Michael Ross via EV
Ben,

There are probably no definitive limits to either battery balancer or BMS.

To me a BMS also manages charge and discharge cut off, as well as
balancing. I suppose it could also have a built in charger, but that is not
what I think when someone says, that there BMS.  There are notification
and warning functions, value readouts, etc. that could also be in a
system.  A battery balancer that does none of these other things is still a
battery balancer to me, but wouldn't be a BMS.

There should probably be a cell balancer, and BMS.  But we call a series
of batteries a battery just to be imprecise.

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 4:57 PM, Ben Goren via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 On Nov 17, 2014, at 1:28 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

  Or, you can build my Battery Balancer (or something like it -- the plans
 are open source and on the web). It does what any battery tester has to do:
 Select a battery or module, charge it under known conditions, discharge it
 under known conditions, compare and record the results. I've been building
 and refining it for over 15 years! It's at
 http://www.sunrise-ev.com/balancer.htm

 I might be a bit confused by the terminology you're using. Is that not a
 BMS, a Battery Management System?

 Seems to me like it might be rather more sophisticated than many of the
 ones I've looked at, but it looks like they're both doing the same thing.

 ...and, if so, yours is definitely on the short list for consideration
 when I get to that stage of the project

 b
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-- 
Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
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Michael E. Ross
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