Re: [h-cost] Iron age tunic found in melting snow.

2013-08-30 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Marianne Vedeler (University of Oslo, Museum of Cultural History) has 
uploaded a paper on Academia.edu:


Out of the Norwegian glaciers: Lendbreen - a tunic from the early 
first millennium AD. Antiquity 87 (2013): 788-801

http://www.academia.edu/4334826/Out_of_the_Norwegian_glaciers_Lendbreen_-_a_tunic_from_the_early_first_millennium_AD._Antiquity_87_2013_788-801

Beth Matney 


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[h-cost] Looking for textile, costume needlework museums near Leeds, Durham or York

2012-08-11 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I will be leaving for Edinburgh and that area in three weeks 
myself... so definitely interested as well.


First the bad news:

The Durham Cathedral Treasures exhibit area is closed and the 
textiles that were on display (St. Cuthbert) are in storage for an 
indefinite period.


Now the good news:

The reason for this is that the Cathedral is embarking on a major 
development of its Claustral buildings, which will see the Shop move 
from its current location in the Great Kitchen into the Western 
Undercroft (where the Treasures exhibition used to be).  A new 
sequence of exhibition spaces in which we plan to display many more 
of the Cathedral's collections will be created in the Monks' 
Dormitory and Great Kitchen.


Beth Matney

At 01:00 PM 8/11/2012, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 12:15:03 -0700
From: Ginni Morgan ginni.mor...@doj.ca.gov

Greetings, everyone~

Longtime lurker delurking here.

I have a good friend who is traveling to England about two weeks 
from now.  She will be visiting the area around York, Durham and 
Leeds and is looking for textile, costume and/or needlework museums 
and/or collections in that general part of England.  Her specific 
area of interest is pre-1650 embroidery in any form (garments, 
hangings, book covers, etc.), particularly Elizabethan 
needlework.  Does anyone know of such places in that area?  Any 
recommendations?  Do they allow photographs?


Also, someone once told her about a museum named the Nottingham 
Textile  Costume Museum which supposedly had a very large 
collection of Elizabethan embroideries, etc.  However, this museum 
supposedly closed shortly after her informant visited it.  She 
thought it was located on Castle Road in Nottingham.  We have found 
a mention of the museum on a what to see in Nottingham website and 
that seems to indicate the museum is currently open.  Does anyone 
know anything about this one?


Any assistance would be appreciated.

Ginni Morgan
aka Gwenhwyfaer


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Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 154

2012-07-17 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

I posted this on the MEDTC elist awhile back (Sept 15, 2010):

Bras in the 15th century? A Preliminary Report
Beatrix Nutz 
http://www.nesat.org/abstracts/lecture_nutz.pdfhttp://www.nesat.org/abstracts/lecture_nutz.pdf


This was a paper to be presented at the last NESAT conference (XI). I 
was unable to attend, so do not know what was actually presented. The 
papers are due to be published later this year.


Beth Matney

At 12:50 PM 7/17/2012, you wrote:

Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 10:55:00 -0400
From: Linda Rice vm...@cox.net
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Interesting Underwear find
Message-ID:

20120717145459.rzel18243.eastrmfepo101.cox@eastrmimpo209.cox.net
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=US-ASCII

Just read this really interesting article on a discovery of 15th century
undergarments in Austria. Never say never things really are being dug up
every day!


http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2174568/Found-castle-vault-scraps-
lace-lingerie-rage-500-years-ago.html


::Linda::


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Re: [h-cost] From the Artbooks catalog

2010-06-04 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
It's all new work. Articles are still being edited. I would suspect 
the publishing date of next year is a bit optimistic. Part of the 
LEXIS project.


Beth

At 01:00 PM 6/4/2010, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2010 10:19:04 -0700
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] From the Artbooks catalog
Message-ID: 4c093588.30...@lavoltapress.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Title: Encyclopaedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles
Author: Owen-Crocker, Gale R
Price: $195.00
ISBN: 9789004124356

Is this just reprints of papers already in Medieval Costume  Textiles,
or??? Anyone know?

Fran
Lavolta Press


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Re: [h-cost] Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns

2010-03-17 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Michelle,

I think that you are the one who did the translation? So you should know

I had heard last month (second hand from Else Ostergard) that it 
would be out in June. One can hope...


Not the longest that I've waited for a book. The Oseberg textiles 
wins that one, though the one on weaving in China is over a decade late.


Anyone else going to the RSA convention in Venice next month?

Beth Matney


Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 21:13:17 -0500
From: Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. manordto...@stthomas.edu

Well, I knew it wasn't going to be late last year because the 
translation wasn't done.


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Re: [h-cost] Shirone gown

2009-08-12 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
No, there isn't much out there. At my visit, I 
spoke with museum curatorial staff. I asked for 
copies of any conservation reports on the gown 
that they had, but they said that they could not 
find any. They had a new textile conservator, but 
her office is at the other museum (Barracks) and 
her interests are more modern. I wasn't able to 
make contact with her. Lots of 19th C stuff at 
that museum. I'd say keep contacting the Museum 
of Ireland... sooner or later some additional 
will be published.. I hope. Lots of stuff on 
display (more in storage) that has never been published.


I also talked to Dr. Heckett, but she didn't have 
any additional info. She's not with the museum, 
but said that the museum's budget for 
publications is very tight. With all the 
development over the last few years, money keeps 
being re-allocated for essential rescue excavations.


Not on the Shinrone, but if you are interested in Irish:
Start by downloading (free) this dissertation from eTHos http://ethos.bl.uk
Fitzgerald, Maria Amelia. Textile production in 
prehistoric and early medieval Ireland. ( 
Manchester Metropolitan University, 2000.) DXN039210 BLDSC, ethos 326250


Unfortunately, you can only see her MS thesis by 
special permission at the School of Archaeology, University College Dublin:
Fitzgerald, Maria Amelia. Dress Styles in Early 
Ireland (C5th to C12th century AD). MA thesis University College Dublin.1991.


I've talked with Dr. Fitzgerald, but haven't been 
able to get to see the MA thesis. If someone is 
planning a trip over, please let me know so that 
I can give you the contact information.


The only other working on Irish costume  
textiles (that I've been able to locate) is 
Maureen Doyle, who is completing her 
dissertation. I do not have contact info for her. 
See the link below for an abstract:
Dress, ornament and bodily identities in early 
medieval Ireland: an archaeology of personhood

Maureen Doyle, UCD School of Archaeology/Scoil na Seandálaíochta UCD
http://www.ucd.ie/archaeology/research/phd/maureen_doyle/http://www.ucd.ie/archaeology/research/phd/maureen_doyle/

Beth

At 01:00 PM 8/12/2009, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 10:34:35 -0700
From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com

Thanks for all your comments on the Shinrone gown, everyone.
 It's certainly more than I knew before  disappointing that there's not
much else to go on.  If there's a paper or even a mention in CSA or Dress,
I'd like to have a heads up about it.  Other than that, sounds like
everyone's sharing the same 2-3 bits of info. *sigh*
Still, it's all appreciated,
--cin
cinbar...@gmail.com


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Re: [h-cost] Really close up of Charles du Blois Purpoint?

2009-04-28 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Saragrace,

I have some closeups that clearly show the textile. I can sent you 
(offlist) a full frontal at 3MB for the jpg or just a detail of the 
pattern unit as a much smaller file.


Beth Matney


Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:40:08 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com
Subject: [h-cost] Really close up of Charles du Blois Purpoint?
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Message-ID: bay133-w4013e6e4d779500d29424cd2...@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1


I was asked today to make one of these purpoints - given the recent 
discussion on reproduction prints, does anyone know of any really 
up close photos of the print on the fabric of this garment?  It 
sure would be fun to recreate it that way!


Thanks,

Sg


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Re: [h-cost] new book

2009-04-04 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I have a copy of this volume. It is quite good. Been planning to get 
a copy of the earlier volume.


Volume 3 is forthcoming.

Beth

At 08:17 AM 4/4/2009, you wrote:

Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009

For those interested in really early costume:

http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?AB~emailReview~itemno=100047custno=12840

 Janet


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Re: [h-cost] Court Pomp and Royal ? Versailles

2009-01-30 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
There are two things going on in Paris this 
Spring/Summer.. a symposium and the exhibit...see below.


Beth Matney

Material  Visual Cultures of Dress in European Courts
(1300-1815)- Château de Versailles (France) - 4-5-6 June 2009

An international symposium devoted to the
material and visual cultures of dress in the
European courts (1300-1815) will be held in
Versailles between the 4th and the 6th of June
2009. At the same time a big exhibition on court
costumes (17th-18th centuries) will be held at
the Versailles Palace (spring 2009). The
symposium will deal with topics related to
clothing in European courts with a larger
chronological time frame, from the end of the
Middle Ages, when a « body of fashion » was
established and when the courts began to expand.
It ends with the last splendour of the French imperial court.
The symposium of Versailles will give the
opportunity to survey the current state of
research in this field, consider the evolutions
between 1300 and 1815, compare the courts and
grasp their mutual influences. The conference
will be at the crossroads of several fields of
research: the Court Studies that have shown the
court to be a central site of power and culture;
the history of material culture and consumption;
lastly the fields of the culture of appearances and those of visual cultures.
The symposium looks at three topics:

• The royal and princely wardrobes in Europe (1300-1815)
• The pictures of the way of dressing at courts in Europe (1300-1815)
• The court dress put on stage: stage, screen, podium (20th-21st c.)

Isabelle Paresys
IRHiS Septentrion - Institut de Recherches Historiques du Septentrion
UMR 8529 - Université de Lille 3 / CNRS
Domaine universitaire du Pont de Bois- B.P. 60 149
59 659 Villeneuve d'Ascq cedex
Visit the website at 
http://veticoursymposium2009.blogspot.com/http://veticoursymposium2009.blogspot.com/



At 01:00 PM 1/30/2009, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 18:30:45 +
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk

http://www.chateauversailles.fr/en/0_Court_Pomp.php

Found it at last - the exhibition information - Court Costume

Suzi


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[h-cost] women's costume late 13thC

2008-11-13 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Hey guys, I thought that you may find these two portraits interesting:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg92detail.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg93detail.jpg

Note the cut of the sideless surcote and the 
minimal headcovering (a ribbon?). On the page 93 
detail, note the fur lined cloak and what appears 
to be buttons down the front bodice (buttons are 
shown along the sleeves of the GFD underneath in 
both images). Some form of closure would be 
required on both, given the high neckline. In 
both surcotes are what appear to be slits for 
hands and a full gore set into the front.


These are image details of the troubadour Castelloza extracted from
Lemaître, Jean-Loup ; Francoise Vielliard . 
Portraits de troubadours: initiales des 
chansonniers provencaux I  K (Paris, BNF, ms. 
Fr. 854 et 12473). Ussel: Musee du pays d'Ussel, 
2006. ISBN:2903920354 9782903920357 OCLC:68706473

http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/68706473

There are 170 illuminated capitals containing 
portraits of troubadours. These are reproduced as 
full page illustrations from two manuscripts 
(probably both produced in Venice at the end of 
the 13thC). Most of these are of male 
troubadours, but there are a few other females as well.


Beth Matney 


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Re: [h-cost] women's costume late 13thC

2008-11-13 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
It is interesting that all of the women's portraits of both 
manuscripts (the few that were there) show this. Much more variation 
in headgear in the men's portraits. Informal settings? Maybe to show 
an unconventional lifestyle? Hippies of the 13th C?


Beth


Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:31:38 +
From: Anne [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Probably not - a troubadour is a composer, and the vida, or biography,
of Castelloza says she was married.  But it was a fairly unconventional
thing for a woman to do, and who knows what later Venetians might have
thought she would have worn?

Jean


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Re: [h-cost] women's costume late 13thC

2008-11-13 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
These are from two different manuscript copies (the BNE Ms. francais 
854 Chansonnier provencal I and the BNE Ms. francais 12473 
Chansonnier provencal K.. from copies in France)... but I would 
also like to see additional. I have a copy of the Maciejowski Bible 
and am looking for other images. Suggestions?


Another set of images of the A manuscript has been recently 
published (this year), but I haven't been able to obtain a copy as 
yet. It is from a copy at the Vatican.


What other sources of manuscript images do we have for southern France?

Beth


Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 13:03:31 -0600 (CST)
From: Pixel, Goddess and Queen [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Unmarried maidens in the Maciejowski Bible wear fillets and their hair
down--I can't at the moment bring any other examples to mind without
the library being to hand, though. I *would*, however, like to see more
manuscripts from the same time and similar places to compare before I feel
comfortable declaring this an actual historical representation of a
garment. Otherwise, the only assumption we can make is that this garment
is what the illuminator(s) of this particular manuscript thought that
Castelloza would have worn. And we won't even go into the Spanish
weirdness, which is an entire 'nother topic all on its own. :-)

Jen


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Re: [h-cost] women's costume late 13thC

2008-11-13 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Yes, I was a bit sloppy calling this a GFD. Sorry. Only the elbow to 
wrist is closely fitted and buttoned. The rest is the standard loose 
'tunica' of rectilinear construction. You can see some seam evidence 
(where the arms are attached) in some of the images.


Beth


Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 15:28:01 -0800
From: Chris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Late 13thc (1200s) I think is a bit early for anything that would
really be characterized as a GFD (Gothic Fitted Dress).


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[h-cost] French titles - Mediaeval costume and textiles

2008-11-01 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thanks. I have the English translation, but I was a bit unhappy with it.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 11/1/2008, you wrote:

Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 10:40:01 -
From: Viv Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]

You might be interested in this book - although it covers a much 
wider period it has a good mediaeval section.
I bought myself a copy of Rayures. une histoire et des tissus 
rayes because the illustrations were excellent and struggled 
through enough of the French to get the basic idea.  I was then 
thrilled to find that a translation had been done The Devil's 
Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric - much smaller book, 
far fewer illustrations and in black and white - I think the 
complete text but my French is really not good enough to say for sure.
The French title is - Rayures: Une histoire des rayures et des 
tissus rayes by Michel Pastoureau  ISBN 2020236664. Publisher Seuil 
(1995). It is out of print but Amazon has one copy available in the 
USA at ?15.26.
The translation is - The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and 
Striped Fabric (European Perspectives: A Series in Social Thought 
and Cultural Criticism) ISBN 0231123663 . Columbia University Press 
(2001).  Amazon has plenty of copies starting from ?7.99.


Viv.


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[h-cost] New books

2008-10-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
The following two books have been released and are now shipping from 
Amazon-UK. (My copies are on the way...)


The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Europe Asia Africa The 
Americas: Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi Et Moderni by Ann Jones, 
Margaret F. Rosenthal
Hardcover: 560 pages Thames  Hudson Ltd (27 Oct 2008) ISBN-10: 
0500514267 ISBN-13: 978-0500514269


Patterns of Fashion Volume 4 ; The cut and  construction of 
linen  shirts, smocks, neckwear,
headwear  accessories for men and women c.1540-1660. Macmillan (7 
Nov 2008) Paperback:

128 pages ISBN-10: 0333570820 ISBN-13: 978-0333570821

Sometime back, this list discussed this new edition of Vecellio and 
it has been much anticipated.


Beth 


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[h-cost] French titles - Medieval costume and textiles

2008-10-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

From Beth Matney:

I am building a wish list of books from France 
for my reference collection. I already have some 
titles (other than those listed below... either 
in French or translation) and would appreciate 
comments on the following (and suggestions of others). Thanks.


Pinasa, Delphine. Costumes. Modes et manières 
d'être, (tome 1). Patrimoine vivant. Paris: 
R.E.M.P.ART., 1992. ISBN:2904365133 9782904365133 OCLC:32681329
Paperback. 8vo-over 7¾-9¾ tall. illustrated 
history of French medieval costume
Ce livre propose un aperçu de l'histoire du 
vêtement de l'antiquité grecque et romaine 
jusqu'au Moyen Âge français (XIVe siècle). Cet 
exposé sur l'évolution des éléments de 
l'habillement au gré des différentes 
civilisations est un outil précieux pour les 
lecteurs qui s'initient à l'histoire du costume 
mais aussi pour ceux qui recherchent une 
documentation fiable et complète au sujet de ce patrimoine.


Aubry, Viviane. Costumes. Tome II, Sculptures de 
l'éphémère, 1340-1670. Patrimoine vivant. Paris: 
REMPART, 1998. ISBN:2904365338 9782904365331 
2220042561 9782220042565 OCLC:40751886
Du XIVe siècle au XVIIe siècle, s'est installée 
une nouvelle perception du corps vêtu. Dans ce 
deuxième tome de l'histoire du costume, l'auteur 
retrace l'évolution de ces nouveaux codes vestimentaires


Becchia, Alain. La draperie en Normandie du XIIIe 
au XXe siècle. Rouen: Publications de 
l'Universite de Rouen, 2004. ISBN:2877753638 9782877753630 OCLC:56750959
L'histoire de la Normandie est intimement liée à 
celle de la production de la draperie. Pendant 
plus de sept siècles, du Moyen Âge jusqu'à la 
fermeture en 1970 de l'entreprise Blin  Blin, la 
Normandie a été le berceau de cette activité 
industrielle et artisanale, source d'emploi et de 
prospérité. Le coton, la laine, voire le chanvre 
et le lin ont été largement exploités par de 
nombreuses entreprises, dont les plus éminentes 
se situaient dans la ville d'Elbeuf. C'est à 
cette tradition désormais révolue que chercheurs 
et historiens, spécialistes de l'histoire 
régionale ont consacré une quinzaine d'études. 
Ils analysent la production des différents 
centres normands, les réseaux de 
commercialisation et d'exportation, les 
mécanismes de transferts et de technologie. 
L'ouvrage se compose de trois parties : la 
première retrace la draperie à l'époque 
médiévale, la seconde concerne les échanges et 
exportations, la troisième traite de l'apogée et du déclin de cette activité.


Beaune (France).  Drôles de trames : Tapisseries 
médiévales et contemporaines. [Beaune]: Muse es 
de Beaune, 2002. ISBN:2850565946 9782850565946 OCLC:52471414

120 pp. With 104 ills. (101 col. ) and 41 reference ills. 28 x 26 cm.
La Ville de Beaune, qui abrite une importante 
collection de tapisseries médiévales (Tenture de 
la Vie de la Vierge et tapisseries de 
l'Hôtel-Dieu), a par ailleurs joué un rôle de 
mécène, encourageant ainsi la création lorsque 
cet art renaissait après 1945. La confrontation 
entre tradition et modernité met en lumière 
continuités et différences: une complicité se 
dessine entre les lissiers anonymes du XVe siècle 
et les artistes rénovateurs, tels Jean Lurçat, 
Marcel Gromaire, Marc Saint-Saëns, Mario 
Prassinos, Michel Tourlière... L'art de la 
tapisserie est toujours bien vivant, comme le 
montrent les oeuvres contemporaines de Mario 
Botta, Diana Brennan, Ester Chacon-Avila, Bernard 
Fortin, Thomas Gleb, Josep Grau-Garriga, Fabrice 
Hybert, ou Gérard Michot. Magnificence des 
grandes commandes du Moyen Âge et force créatrice 
des artistes qui ont choisi ce moyen d'expression 
se répondent et offrent au lecteur une aventure émotionnelle haute en couleur.


Greimas, Algirdas Julien. Ancien français: [la 
langue du Moyen Age de 1080 à 1350]. Grand 
dictionnaire Larousse. Paris: Larousse, 2007. 
ISBN:9782035827074 2035827078 OCLC:254489605 23.6 
x 15.6 x 4.2 cm Paperback: 672 pages
Cet ouvrage présente le français en usage au 
Moyen Age de 1080 (date de création de la Chanson 
de Roland) à 1350. Chaque article regroupe les 
dérivés sous les entrées principales et donne les 
différents sens des mots et des locutions. Chaque 
mot est accompagné de son étymologie, de la date 
de sa première apparition dans un texte écrit et 
des références de celui ci. Des citations 
extraites d'oeuvres et des exemples rendent 
compte des coutumes de l'époque. Des notices 
claires et documentées pour comprendre facilement 
l'évolution de la langue par exemple que leu 
signifiait loup ce qui explique l'expression à la 
queue leu leu que plain voulait dire plat d'où la 
graphie de plain pied ou que aveugle se disait et 
s'écrivait nonvoiant comme on le dit aujourd'hui.


Pernoud, Regine. Visages de femmes au Moyen age. 
[Saint-Leger-Vauban]: Zodiaque, 1998. 
ISBN:2736902394 9782736902391 OCLC:39124464

261pp, 178 pls (most col)
L'auteur évoque un thème essentiel au Moyen Age, 
puisque la femme y prend pour la première fois 
une place majeure dans la culture et 

Re: [h-cost] scholarly historical costume list

2008-10-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Yes, there are several that you may be interested in.

MEDTC-DISCUSS [EMAIL PROTECTED] (approval required... 
to keep the spammers away)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (edited version of above.. newsletter 
only list.. cannot post directly)


I started these almost a year ago, but the majority of the posts have 
been mine, so it has been mostly posts of new book notices, journal 
articles of interest, conferences, etc. Quite a few have joined these 
lists, but traffic has been slow lately. Members are from the USA, 
UK, various Scandinavian countries and Germany, but unfortunately 
none from France, Italy or eastern Europe as yet.


and [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Posts to this has currently been primarily about the Janet Arnold 
Conference and travel relating to Florence, Italy.


See the Yahoo webpages to find out more.

Beth Matney

At 01:00 PM 10/31/2008, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 10:54:21 -0700
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Oh, there's more?  Undoubtedly there are.  I'm looking for one that's
more prone to scholarly info rather than sewing  construction
questions and where to buy questions.  This list is great for that
info.  My personal preferences are for Renaissance, Napoleonic,
Regency, Victorian high fashions, advanced tailoring, but I'm willing
to skip over the parts I'm not interest in.  Several lists may end up
serving my various areas of interest  that's fine, too.  Happy to
take all suggestions.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [h-cost] French titles - Medieval costume and textiles

2008-10-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thank you very much for the info.

Beth

At 05:58 PM 10/31/2008, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 14:14:04 -0400
From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Well, I can't tell you much about many of those, but I do have a few comments:

 Greimas, Algirdas Julien. Ancien fran?ais: [la langue du Moyen 
Age de 1080 ?

 1350]. Grand dictionnaire Larousse.

This is really an Old French dictionary. Meaning that, if you're
reading an old text and want to know what a word means, it might help
you. But it won't help you to find the way something was called in the
past, if you already know the modern word.

 Pernoud, Regine. Visages de femmes au Moyen age. [Saint-Leger-Vauban]:

I don't know what the book is worth, but she's a very good writer, a
specialist of the Middle Ages and also very prolific.


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Re: [h-cost] French titles - Medieval costume and textiles

2008-10-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thanks Robin,

Thanks, I'll look for the German edition. (I do a bit better with German)

Beth

At 05:58 PM 10/31/2008, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 13:46:15 -0500
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

 Pernoud, Regine. Visages de femmes au Moyen age. [Saint-Leger-Vauban]:

 I don't know what the book is worth, but she's a very good writer, a
 specialist of the Middle Ages and also very prolific.

(Catching up late)

I found this first in German, on a clearance rack somewhere in Europe, and
bought it for the pictures. Then I found it in French, on a clearance rack in
Paris, some years later, and bought it for the pictures as well as 
the text. I

had not realized it was the same book, but I'm glad to have the French. (I
don't read German!) I've already sold the German copy to a German-speaker.
Lots of good images of artwork you don't find very often.

--Robin


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Re: [h-cost] What to see in the UK

2008-10-02 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Just returned form Ireland.

Museum of Ireland - Archaeology (Kildare St, Dublin) has the Shinrone 
gown and men's clothing from bogs on display in a room off the 1st 
floor. late 16th/ early 17th C. also some things in the medieval 
section on the 2nd floor. Museum of Ireland- Decorative Arts (Collins 
Barracks, Dublin) has a display of 20th C clothing and some 19th C 
things in the general collection. The office of the textile 
conservator for the system is also located here. Museum of Country 
Life has some early 20th C things on display including 
Traditional/Folk clothing from the Aran Islands and a nice display of 
sweaters. Bunratty Castle has some early 16th portraits. Please be 
aware that photography is generally forbidden in Irish Museums.


Beth Matney

At 01:00 PM 10/2/2008, you wrote:

Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 14:09:29 +1000
From: Elizabeth Walpole [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hello everyone,
I'm in the early planning stages of a Holliday to the UK about this time
next year and I'm trying to work out what I should visit, I'm spending a
week in London with friends and after that point I'm planning to spend
another 2 or 3 weeks around the UK  Ireland. the London part of my trip is
fairly firmly planned but for the rest of the UK  Ireland I've only got
Bath, Stratford on Avon, Warwick Castle, and Hampton Court definitely on my
list so far, so what else would you suggest for a costumer and Tudor history
nut?
Elizabeth


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Re: [h-cost] Need help Norway 1879-1890

2008-08-01 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Even though these are from Denmark, you  might find them of use:
http://www.dragt.dk/dragt-journal/dragtjournalen.html

Beth

At 01:00 PM 8/1/2008, Kate wrote:

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 13:47:09 -0400
From: Kate Pinner [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I will be doing Ibsen's Doll's House and Hedda Gabler this fall and need
pictorial sources for fashions in 19th cent. Norway.  Doll's House is 1879
and Hedda is 1890. Was Norway doing the same stuff as America  Western
Europe? Colors? Fabrics? Any and all help would be appreciated!
 (Also would like to know about the interior archecture of the times as I
have to do the set, too.)

Kate


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Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

2008-06-10 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
for more images see:
Anderson, Ruth Matilda. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530. Hispanic notes  
monographs. New York: Hispanic Society of America, 
1979.  ISBN:0875351263 9780875351261 OCLC:4858873
http://www.worldcat.org/search?q=isbn%3A0875351263

Note that the shape is different from the later cone shaped 
Elizabethan Spanish farthingale (that I've always rather liked. 
Antonio Moro (Anthony More, Antonis Mor van Dashorst) did a lovely 
full sized standing portrait of the Infanta Clara Eugenia that is 
part of the Houston Museum of Fine Arts collection. It had an impact 
on me years ago...

Beth

Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 10:43:20 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I was looking at the painting of Salome (top left,
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html ) that is
generally accepted as one of the earliest forms of
farthingale/virtugarde/verdugados. I've heard the Look, first the
hoops were worn on the outside, but very quickly they became an
underskirt and hidden interpretation.  I was thinking about the
allegorical aspect of religious art.

Salome was supposed to have danced naked before she asked for the head
of John the Baptist.

Is it possible that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to
hint at this nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on the
outside?  (if that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies
behind her?)  Are there any other depictions, anywhere, of hoops on
the outside?

Any thoughts?

Emma

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Re: [h-cost] new elist for research in Textiles and Clothing

2008-06-07 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I have received several requests to join MEDTC-DISCUSS since I posted 
the announcement here. Most I accepted, but a few I rejected. This 
was not personal. I simply could not determine who they were or where 
they heard about the list and I was concerned about spam. Try again. 
If you are on h-costume, at a minimum please say so and give your 
name in the comment field. With no comment, you will be denied. A few 
seem to have thought that it  was a SCA or other reenactment list. It 
is not. I also have no intention in competing with h-costume, we 
serve different purposes. I will be remaining on h-costume.

A discussion list, MEDTC-DISCUSS: 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-DISCUSS/

and a newsletter list for announcements of titles, etc. : 
MEDTC-RESOURCES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-RESOURCES/

These lists are academic in focus and scholarly in tone.  Discussion 
of personal projects (other than publications), reproduction 
techniques, supplies, social or re-enactment events, etc. should be 
taken elsewhere.  Please see the full descriptions at the links above.

Thank you.

Beth Matney  

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[h-cost] new elist for research in Textiles and Clothing

2008-06-06 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
As you know, it is a bit difficult to keep up with the literature, 
conferences, symposia, etc. in the field of textiles and clothing 
from the post-Roman through the early modern periods (500-1600CE). It 
is a field spanning many disciplines in many languages with the 
indexing of the journals quite scattered (if indexed at all) and many 
titles not well publicized or easily available outside their country 
of publication. Well, in an informal discussion after a DISTAFF 
session at the last International Medieval Congress (Kalamazoo 2008) 
several of us (Dr. Carole Collier Frick, Dr. Gale Owen-Crocker, Robin 
Netherton and myself) bemoaned this and it was decided that an elist 
might be useful. So I have created two:

A discussion list, MEDTC-DISCUSS: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-DISCUSS/

and a newsletter list for announcements of titles, etc. : 
MEDTC-RESOURCES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-RESOURCES/

Though MEDTC-RESOURCES will include the titles and announcements from 
MEDTC-DISCUSS (delayed and edited), it will not include any of the 
discussion of them and only in MEDTC-DISCUSS will you be able to post 
directly (I am quite happy to pass on any suggestions, however)

These lists are academic in focus and scholarly in tone.  Discussion 
of personal projects (other than publications), reproduction 
techniques, supplies, social or re-enactment events, etc. should be 
taken elsewhere.  Please see the full descriptions at the links above.

Whether you join or not, please sent your list of publications(in any 
language) for inclusion to mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] or 
directly to me at mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] It would be most appreciated.

I do hope that one of these elists will be of interest and assistance 
and that you will choose to participate. Please pass this invitation 
along to any colleagues or institutions that might also be interested.

Thank you.

Beth Matney  

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[h-cost] Textile Society of America - 2008 Symposium

2008-05-23 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I thought that this might be of interest to others on the list.

Textiles as Cultural Expressions: 11th Textile 
Society of America Biennial Symposium 2008 (Honolulu) September 24 – 27, 2008
http://www.textilesociety.org/symposia_2008.htm
Preliminary Program as of March 3) - 832KB 
http://www.textilesociety.org/downloads/2008Symposium%20PreliminaryProgram.pdf

Regards,
Beth Matney 

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[h-cost] NESAT X

2008-05-14 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
The 10th NESAT Conference (Northern European Society for 
Archaeological Textiles) is going on this week (13-18 May 2008) in Copenhagen.

You can download a schedule here 
http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/upload/application/pdf/f51d6748/Program%20May6.pdf

The current anticipated date of publication is Spring 2009.

Wish that I were there!.. but the DISTAFF sessions last week at the 
Medieval Congress in Kalamazoo were very good also.

Beth 

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Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen

2008-04-30 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Thank you Suzi,

 From Jenny Tiramani's web page, it looked like she had finished and 
it was in the hands of a publisher somewhere.. and I, too, was drooling.

Beth

Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 21:33:27 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]

At 22:20 29/04/2008, you wrote:

 Has anyone heard anymore about the publication below? Such as
 publisher and a real date?
 
 Jenny Tiramani is currently preparing Janet Arnold's book, Patterns
 of Fashion Volume 4 ; The cut and construction of linen shirts,
 smocks, neckwear, headwear  accessories for men and women
 c.1540-1660 for publication in 2008.

That's Santina Levey and Jenny Tiramani. The last time I spoke to
them, they were expecting to be publishing early this year, but both
have their own work, and I know Tina was ill for a while. They
published Janet's notes on the Effigy Corset, plus her patterns, in
Costume, the journal of the Costume Society, in 2007.

Suzi

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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You

2008-04-30 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Tabloid sized (13 by 19 inches) flatbed scanners are available and 
some photo or print shops have them  (even here in Arkansas). These 
are capable of quite high resolutions.. but most work is still done 
at 300dpi (or less), due to large file sizes. Images larger than that 
are usually photographed with various setups.

Blueprints (in the old days) were done with a diazo (ammonia) 
process. Most are now directly printed from computer originals, 
either 11 by 17 or using large format inkjet printers (usually 36 or 
48 inches wide).

Beth Matney

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:40:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Blueprints--check with a local construction company or two; there 
ought to be somewhere that has a very large platen glass, and the 
construction industry will likely use it.
Most blueprints are individually fed through a roller system; not 
suitable for a bound book, or any antique paper.

Ann in CT

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Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen

2008-04-30 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I just got this note in:

The publisher is Macmillan and the publication date is
7th November 2008. I think it will be on Amazon for
pre-orders soon,

Regards,
Jenny Tiramani

Beth

At 12:23 PM 4/30/2008, you wrote:
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 03:35:30 -0700
From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Several people from here in AnTir (SCA Kingdom including the Pacific
Northwest/Northwet of the United States) intend to go to its unveiling in
Florence, Italy in September.  The book has been long in the making.  To the
point where many of us have gotten tired of the wait and worried about the
possible demise of both the editors and picked up the various small papers
by Inter Library Loan.  Even so, I have orders for one or more of my
friends who are going to get me one too.  (Friends because I'm so
envious I can barely stand it but neither can my finances!

Wanda

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[h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen

2008-04-29 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Has anyone heard anymore about the publication below? Such as 
publisher and a real date?

Jenny Tiramani is currently preparing Janet Arnold's book, Patterns 
of Fashion Volume 4 ; The cut and construction of linen shirts, 
smocks, neckwear, headwear  accessories for men and women 
c.1540-1660 for publication in 2008.

Thanks,
Beth Matney

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Re: [h-cost] h-cost] Vintage patterns and clothing, cigarette smoke

2008-04-28 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
A trick that I learned from a used book dealer friend of mine: Place 
the books into an air tight bag (trash bag) with Kitty Litter. The 
amount of litter varies with the number of books and amount of smoke. 
Let sit, checking every month or so. The smoke smell will gradually 
be removed. Any yellowing  will not change, however.

Beth

At 11:19 AM 4/28/2008, you wrote:
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 14:46:23 +
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi, all,
I am helping my 82-year-old parents clear out their house in 
preparation for moving to something more manageable. My mom used to 
sew, and I am finding boxes and boxes of patterns from the 60s and 
70s -- Simplicity, Butterick, McCall's, Vogue. Likewise, there are 
four double closets full of, um, typical suburban clothes and shoes, 
mostly from the 70s. My question is whether there is a market for 
them, given that they have been kept for 40 years in a house with at 
least two and sometimes four cigarette smokers. Everything in the 
house has a strong cigarette smoke smell; many things are brown with 
what I guess is deposited tar. (Veimru: Yuck.)

So before I tell my dad it should all go in a dumpster, I just 
wanted to check whether there was any point in trying to find a 
buyer for them.

Likewise, though off-topic (because they are not costume books; 
apparently I developed that obsession on my own) are the books in 
the house rendered worthless by the smoke and tar?

I am also hoping for some suggestions about how to get the smell out 
of the clothes, patterns, or books that I might want to save.
Thanks for any thoughts you might share.
Lauren
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-24 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
At 10:18 AM 4/24/2008, Penny Ladnier wrote:
About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?

current cataloged: 169 books with direct costume 
focus, large collection of textiles, art and 
manuscript facsim. with related info
Mags: Costume (#6 to current) and misc others

What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you purchase it?

Don't remember probably sometime in the early 80's.

What was your most recent purchase?

Die gegossenen kleeblattförmigen Fibeln der 
Wikingerzeit aus Skandinavien by Birgit Maixner 
is the most recent to arrive.. others on order.

What do you think was the best deal that you 
have every made when purchasing a publication?

Don't remember.

About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?

Don't do modern costuming (end about 1600). Have 
family photos from 19th C that I suppose I could use.

What book or magazine is your most 
treasured...if your house was on fire, you would take it with you.

Tough choice, probably 'Storia del costume in 
Italia'  set by Rosita Levi Pisetzky

What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!

Also tough choice, probably Norris (refuse to own a copy of Iris Brooke)

Do you have a room devoted to your collection?

Separate building for library.

When did you start collecting?

Collecting books my whole life.. serious costume 
related book collecting probably early 80's

Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?

Pleasure.

Optional questions:

How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and age?

19th C treddle, 2 from 1940's (Singer and clone), 
2 from 1950's (Sears, White), 2 from 1980's 
(Penney's, Bernina) that I actually use most often

How many sewing patterns do you own?

Don't know.

Beth Matney 

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Re: [h-cost] 14th C. hairnets

2008-02-12 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote:


Where did you find the addition information?  Astrid


It was posted by a member of another list (75 years) in response to 
my request for additional information from the original article in 
Waffen... (see bottom of photos for citation). I have not seen that 
article myself... which is in German (would love to get a copy). 
Contact me off list if you wish to speak to her directly.


Beth 


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[h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries

2008-02-12 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
There has been a bit of discussion about this on 
the Norsefolk_2 list. Here is an image of her reconstruction:


see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825

Beth

At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote:

Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 06:39:28 +
From: Linda Walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group
members:-

Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th
and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than
previously believed. ...  When the area around Lake Mälaren was
Christianized about a century later, women’s dress style became more
modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson.

It's from The Local - Sweden's News in English
http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/

What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction!

Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)


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Re: [h-cost] 14th C. hairnets

2008-02-11 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Here's a bit more info:


One of the nets is netted from 2-ply silk threads in green and white with
arms embroidered in silk and gilt silver thread. The arms were embroidered
on coarse linen ground and then sewn on to the net.
The other net is made from narrow woven silk bands, white, with parchment
bits sewn on to the crossings. The parchment was probably once blue. I have
long since wanted to reproduce that net, and I even managed to get parchment
and silk bands, but I haven't found the time yet.

Both nets come from art and antiquity sales, so their provenance is not
known, and dating is a little unsure because of the same reasons. They
probably date to the 14th c. though.

Greetings,
Katrin


At 01:00 PM 2/11/2008, you wrote:

Is this one woven (for lack of a better word) braid with spangles at
the intersections?

 2nd half of the 14th C
 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c49.jpg

emma


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[h-cost] 14th C. hairnets

2008-02-10 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Some friends asked me to upload these and I thought that some of you 
might be interested as well.


Here are images of two hair nets
1st half of the 14th C. Note the 38 heraldic devices on this one.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c48.jpg

2nd half of the 14th C
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c49.jpg

Enjoy!
Beth Matney

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[h-cost] more Theses in the UK

2008-02-08 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I did a bit more literature search through Copac.. Here are some more 
that I found of interest. I think that another trip to London is in 
order... (my next scheduled is 2010 when the VA and the Ashmolean 
expansions are complete). grin


Beth

Shirazi-Mahajan, Faegheh. Costumes and textile designs of the 
Il-Khanid, Timurid and Safavid dynasties in Iran from the thirteenth 
to the seventeenth century. thesis (Ph.D.) - Ohio State University, 
1985. 287 pp. OCLC:82926908 UMI 8519027


Toplis, Alison. The dress of the Merovingian court in the Frankish 
kingdom, circa 450 - 700 A.D. : a study in early medieval dress. 
vi,88 leaves : ill ; 32cm. Includes bibliography. Notes:Dissertation: 
(MA) University of London (Courtauld Institute of Art) 1993.


Ashelford, Jane. Emblems in English costume and furnishing, 
1560-1612. 2 v. in 1 : ill.; 28 cm.. Notes:Plates 6, 34, 44  49 are 
missing. Dissertation (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute 
of Art), 1973. Includes bibliographical references.


Hamnett, Melissa. Fashioning a self : issues of identity surrounding 
women's dress in England, 1590-1640..:viii, 165 leaves : ill., ports. 
; 30 cm. Bibliography : leaves 159-165. Typescript. Submitted to 
fulfill the requirements of the M.A. in the History of Design, 
jointly run by the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Royal College 
of Art. Thesis (M.A.) -- Royal College of Art. 2004. Location: VA Libraries


Currie, Elizabeth.  A Florentine family wardrobe 1566-1606.125 
leaves, [44] leaves of plates : ill., general. table ; 30 cm. 
Bibliography : leaves 120-125. Glossary. Notes: Submitted to fulfill 
requirement of M.A. History of Design course jointly run by the Royal 
College of Art and the Victoria and Albert Museum. Typescript. 
Thesis(M.A.)--Royal College of Art, 1998. Location: VA Libraries


Drum, Karen. Footwear of the early Tudor period, 1485-1550 : and a 
catalogue of the early Tudor footwear collection of the Department of 
Costume, Museum of London.:2 v. in 1 : ill. ; 31 cm. Includes 
bibliographical references. Notes:Dissertation (MA)--University of 
London (Courtauld Institute of Art), 1982.


Fingerlin, Ilse. Gurtel des hohen und spaten Mittelalters. 
(Series:Kunstwissenschaftliche Studien (Deutscher Kunstverlag) ; Bd. 
46). Published: [Munchen] : Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1971. 495 p. : 
ill. ; 26 cm. Bibliography: p. 300-301. ISBN: ISBN:3422006451 9783422006454
OCLC:1446877 (37 US libraries) Notes:A revision of the author's 
thesis, Freiburg i.B., 1967.


Dubner-Manthey, Birgit. Die Gurtelgehange als Trager von 
Kleingeraten, Amuletten und Anhangern symbolischer Bedeutung im 
Rahmen der fruhmittelalterlichen Frauentract : archaologische 
Untersuchungen zu einem charakteristischen Bestandteil der weiblichen 
Tracht. Published: [s.n., Berlin], 1987. :200 p. : ill. ; 21 cm. 
Includes bibliographical references (p. 7-22). Notes:Thesis 
(doctoral)--Freie Universitat Berlin, 1987


Straw, Amanda Louise. An investigation into the work of Hans Holbein 
the Younger as a source for understanding Englishwomen's headwear, 
c.1526-1543. 48 leaves : ill ; 32cm. Includes bibliography. 
Notes:Dissertation: (MA) University of London (Courtauld Institute of Art) 1995


Deevy, Mary B. Medieval ring brooches in Ireland : a study of 
jewellery, dress, and society . (Series:Wordwell monograph series ; 
no. 1) Published: Bray, Co. Wicklow : Wordwell, 1998. ix, 142 p : 
ill. (some col.), maps ; 25 cm..Includes bibliographical references 
(p. 75-85). ISBN: 1869857240. OCLC:40135497 (17 US libraries) 
Notes:This book is based on an M.A. thesis submitted to the 
Department of Archaeology, University College Dublin, 1995.


Lehner, Julia. Die Mode im alten Nurnberg : modische Entwicklung und 
sozialer Wandel in Nu rnberg, aufgezeigt an den Nurnberger 
Kleiderordnungen (Series:Nurnberger Werkstu cke zur Stadt- und 
Landesgeschichte ; Bd. 36) Published: Nurnberg : Stadtarchiv Nurnberg 
: Auslieferung, Universita tsbuchhandlung Korn und Berg, 1984. :xi, 
288 p : ill ; 21 cmI. ncludes index, Bibliography: p. 275-280. ISBN: 
3874320952 OCLC:60011742 18154420 (15 US libraries)
Notes:Originally presented as the author's thesis 
(doctoral)--Universitat Erlangen-Nurnberg, 1984


Symonds, Anna. Queen of Kings : the dress of Anne of Denmark. 129 
leaves : ill. ; 31cm. Bibliography : leaves 100 - 107. 
Notes:Dissertation: (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute 
of Art), 2002


Dawson, Elizabeth. Some aspects of court entertainment in fifteenth 
century Burgundy : with special reference to Olivier de la Marche's 
descriptions of the theatrical costumes worn at the Feast of the 
Pheasant in 1454 and at Charles the Bold's wedding banquet in 
1468.:90 leaves ; 32 cm. Includes bibliographical references. 
Notes:Dissertation (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute of 
Art), 1989.


Hill, Virginia Arabella Maria. Women's dress at the court of the 
Sforza : a study of the foreign influences on the fashions worn at 
the 

[h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest

2008-02-08 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
While I was browsing the British Library's 
Integrated Catalogue (using the search terms 
costume thesis), I ran across the following of 
interest. After several years of trying to 
interlibrary loan British theses and 
dissertations from every library in the state 
(universities and my local), I have given up and 
started to selectively purchase them (usually not 
TOO expensive as microform.. except those from 
Cambridge...). Has anyone seen these and can comment on them?


Thanks,
Beth Matney

Scott, Margaret Cochrane.: Dress in Scotland 
1406-1460..  University of London, 1987.. DX189880

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-19633?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=10format=999

Ege, Ufuk.: Costume in Chaucer's works with 
special reference to the visual history of 
costume in his era..  University of Lancaster, 1993.. DX228822

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-78349?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=08format=999

Lewin, Agathe. Durer and costume : a study of the 
dress in some of Durer's paintings and drawings / 
(London : University of London, 1992.)  thesis DX231935

2 v. : ill. (some col.), ports. (some col.) ; 33 cm.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-63366?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=11format=999

Sigüenza Pelarda, Cristina, La moda en el vestir 
en la pintura gótica aragonesa / (Zaragoza 
[Spain] : Institución Fernando el Católico, 
Excma. Diputación de Zaragoza, 2000.)

 YF.2005.a.9837 (ISBN 8478205764)
257 p. : col. ill. ; 21 cm. Originally presented 
as the author’s thesis, Universidad de Zaragoza, 
1997. Includes bibliographical references (p. 183-190) and index.

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-61578?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=18format=999

Brieske, Vera. Schmuck und Trachtbestandteile des 
Graberfeldes von Liebenau, Kr. Nienburg/Weser : 
vergleichende Studien zur Gesellschaft der 
fruhmittelalterlichen Sachsen im Spannungsfeld 
zwischen Nord und Sud / (Oldenburg : Isensee, 2001.)

 X.0425/198(5,6) (ISBN 3895987484 (pbk.))
386 p. : ill., maps ; 30 cm. Originally presented 
as the author’s thesis_Universitat Munster, 1998. 
Includes bibliographical references.

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-51792?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=23format=999

While not in the BL Catalogue, this is also of interest:
The development of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements 
in French and English Dress 1050-1180 by Jennifer 
Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) 249 leaves : ill ; 30 cm
Note:Includes bibliography. Location: Joule 
Library Theses Th5157  OCLC: 62355641
also in King's College London - Courtauld 
Institute of Art Library ; Theses K4708 HAR  


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[h-cost] Diversarum nationum habitus

2008-01-18 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I went looking for PIETRO BERTELLI's Diversarum 
nationum habitus (late 16th C Italian costume) 
and found several very interesting sites along 
the way. Ain't serendipity wonderful!


Thought that I'd pass them along and the links to 
the images of Diversarum nationum habitus in case 
anyone else might be interested.


Beth

---
AN ANALYTIC BIBLIOGRAPHY OF ON-LINE NEO-LATIN TEXTS
http://www.philological.bham.ac.uk/bibliography/index.htm

one of the sites that it indexes is
FONDAZIONE ISTITUTO INTERNAZIONALE DI STORIA ECONOMICA F. DATINI
LIBRARY ONLINE - Images for economic and social history
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/en/presenta.htm
Thanks to our collaboration with a number of 
important Italian libraries, we are in the 
process of acquiring and cataloguing images in 
manuscripts and printed volumes produced between 
the 14th and the 15th century. 


--
Cover and entry
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/

St. 12886, PIETRO BERTELLI, Diversarum nationum habitus.
Patavii, apud Alciatum Alcia et Petrum 
Bertellium, 1594-1596 - incisore: Pietro Bertelli

http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/htm/elenco.htm

http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/htm/vol1.htm
Vol. 1 - DIVERSARUM NATIONUM/ HABITUS/ Centum, et 
quattuor iconibus in/ aere incisis diligenter 
expressi/ item/ ORDINES DUO PROCESSIONUM /Unus/ 
SUMMI PONTIFICIS /Alter/ SERENISS. /Principis 
Venetiarum/ opera/ PETRI BERTELLII. /Ad Ill.um D. 
Io. Reinhardum Comite/ ab Hanau et D. in 
Liechtemburg./ Apud Alciatum Alcia et/ Petrum Betellium. Patavij./1594

[3] c., 2 tav., 104 (ma 94) ill.
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/3-1.htmFig. 
3 - Vergine veneta
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/4-1.htmFig. 
4 - Senatore veneto
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/5-1.htmFig. 
5 - Vedova veneta
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/6-1.htmFig. 
6 - Cortigiana veneta
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/6b-1.htmFig. 
6 - Cortigiana veneta (sotto il vestito)
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/13-1.htmFig. 
13 - Giureconsulto padovano
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/15-1.htmFig. 
15 - Mercante ebreo padovano
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/14-1.htmFig. 
14 (ma 16) - Medico padovano
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/17-1.htmFig. 
17 - Venditrice di frutta e verdura padovana
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/18-1.htmFig. 
18 (ma 20) - Venditore di ricotta padovano
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/19-1.htmFig. 
19 - Nobile matrona mantovana
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/22-1.htmFig. 
22 (ma 23) - Contadina bolognese
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/28-1.htmFig. 
28 - Donna sposata romana
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/31-1.htmFig. 
31 - Nobile napoletana
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/32-1.htmFig. 
32 - Cavaliere di Malta
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/37-1.htmFig. 
37 (ma 34) - Rettore dell'Università di Parigi
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/41-1.htmFig. 
41 - Navicularis Britannus detto volgamente Bretone
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/43-1.htmFig. 
43 - Nobile sposa di Danzica
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/44-1.htmFig. 
44 - Patrizio della Germania inferiore in abito solenne
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/45-1.htmFig.45 
- Cavaliere germanico in abiti domestici
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/60-1.htmFig. 
60 - Venditrice di pane macedone
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/75-1.htmFig. 
75 (ma 66) - Medico giudeo, vestito secondo l'uso costantinopolitano
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/90-1.htmFig. 
90 (ma 82) - Cuoco dell'imperatore turco
   * 
http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/riccard/12886/dida/103-1.htmFig. 
103 (ma 91) - Pellegrino de La Mecca


http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/it/casanat/n12-38cc/htm/v1.htmLe 
tavole: 13, 37, 67, 75, 90 si trovano anche 
presso la Biblioteca Casanatense di Roma.
N. XII. 38/1 CC - Diversarum nationum habitus 
centum et quattuor inconibus inaere incisis 
diligenter expressi, item ordines duo 
preocesionum, unus Summi Pontificis, alter 
Sereniss. Principis Venetiarum, opera Petri 

[h-cost] Books: building a reference collection

2008-01-14 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I have been loading a catalog of our reference collection online at 
www.librarything.com (user Castlegrounds)


You can see our textiles books at:
http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=textilesview=Castlegrounds

and the costume books at:
http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=costumeview=Castlegrounds

Currently, I have most of my textile and costume books entered (still 
some to go on embroidery and weaving), but I still have lots of books 
in other categories yet to enter.


As I am actively adding to the collection, I would appreciate any 
suggestions of good costume and textile books (any language, SCA time 
period: 500-1600AD) that I have overlooked.


Thank you,
Beth Matney  


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Re: [h-cost] Books: building a reference collection

2008-01-14 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

You are most welcome Chris.

If you come across a good reference that is not listed, please post 
to the list or me personally.


Thanks,
Beth

At 04:47 PM 1/14/2008, you wrote:

Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 11:07:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi Beth and Happy New Year!

  Thanks so much for sharing this.  This is going to be an 
excellent cross-reference tool for me.


  All the Best,
  Chris R.


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[h-cost] Re: NESAT IX

2008-01-11 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Hi Nancy,

I'm glad that you found a copy. It is as good as ever. Yes, it is 
available from DBBC (I make it my mission to notify DBBC when the 
NESATs become available) but there is a pretty good markup on the 
price... they have to stay in business. smile It really wasn't too 
hard to order from the Swiss online seller, but there were a few 
tricky bits. Nice fast delivery too.


Are you going to the NESAT 10 conference in Copenhagen in May?

Beth

At 01:00 PM 1/11/2008, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 09:48:15 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

This IS available from Oxbow/David Brown.  This will be easier than  getting
it from the Swiss bookstore.

Nancy / Ingvild


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Re: [h-cost] Articles from journal 'Costume' on-line

2007-12-05 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Hi Hilary,

None of the universities in my part of the USA have access to the 
Maney journals of interest: Neither back issues, current 
subscriptions nor online. I am an old student (never quit studying!), 
now retired. To get the issues, I must subscribe personally. Maney is 
willing to sell me online subscriptions to sets of journals at 
reduced rate, but this quickly becomes very costly... and still does 
not address the problem of back issues. I might as well subscribe to 
the paper copy.


I subscribe to Costume and have all back issues (except 1-5, which I 
would very much like to get) in my personal library. I have a few 
back issues of Textile History, but the subscription is beyond my 
budget (or rather books win over journals in priority). I am 
seriously considering a subscription to Medieval Archaeology. I 
wonder would any of the UK universities with ATHENS consider a (very) 
long distant student? smile


Take care.
Beth

At 09:37 PM 12/4/2007, you wrote:

Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 22:28:00 +
From: Hilary Davidson [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Further to Wanda's post  - below - from the 4th November (sorry -
slowly reading through old messages)

If you're connected with an academic institution in the UK and have
or can get an ATHENS password, you may well be able to access, free,
the online version of Costume through Ingenta Connect, the on-line
site that Wanda mentions.

http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/maney/cos/2007/0041/0001

Usually your friendly uni librarian can arrange an ATHENS password
http://www.athens.ac.uk/ and it's extremely useful for all sorts of
sites, but at the same time amazing how many students aren't told
about this service. there may be an equivalent US service. Then you
can download individual articles in handy PDF form from Costume, and
Textile History which is also highly recommendable, for textile
related articles, conference and book reviews. Then once downloaded
and printed off, who knows where copies could end up? (though I'm not
condoning breach of applicable copyright  - reasonable use for
research purposes only!)

Typical - I don't post for years then do two at once


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Re: [h-cost] sewing needles

2007-11-28 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Bjarne,

Here is a shop based in the UK that lists them
http://www.craftonline.co.uk/83/shop.cfm

Beth

At 01:07 PM 11/28/2007, you wrote:

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 19:56:21 +0100
From: Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] sewing needles

Hi.
Suddently all the stores in Denmark dont have the needles i use for 
my embroidery any more.

I used Millward sharps, and i dont think i can find any online.
The needles i can find here, are two big, that is to say, the heads 
are two big. I need really small heads, not bigger than the shaft in itself.

Does any know where i can get any online please?

Bjarne


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Re: [h-cost] New Book on Silk Fabrics in Paintings

2007-11-26 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I have had it on order for about a month (Amazon had a very good 
pre-order discount). Though I have not seen it as yet, I have other 
things by Lisa and they are good.


The publisher's page:
http://yalepress.yale.edu/yupbooks/book.asp?isbn=978030070

FYI. you may also want to look through their sale.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 11/26/2007, you wrote:

Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 20:17:25 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
This was in the latest new book listing from Michael Shamansky, and I would
like to know if anyone has had a chance to see a copy yet or had heard
anything  about it (realizing it is not set to come out until February).

Thanks,

Nancy

Catalog Number: 53524
Title: Merchants, Princes and Painters Silk  Fabrics in Italian and Northern
Paintings, 1300-1550
Author: Monnas,  Lisa
Price: $75.00
ISBN: 978030070


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RE: Costume journal was Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of

2007-11-17 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thanks Wanda,

Like everyone, I have a budget.. so journals (particularly the 
expensive Maney ones) are usually dropped in favor of books. Many 
look quite interesting.. if only I qualified for the student rate!


Beth

At 01:00 PM 11/17/2007, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 18:39:02 -0800
From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Beth,  I have the Dress book already from David Brown. I went to the Barnes
and Nobel site and although they have it listed I don't see a price.
Actually I'm the one who wrote the bit about bribery and corruption to get
my copy.  It is definitely worth the money to me.  It is going right into
it's place next to Queen Elizabeth's Closet Unlocked.  That book is also
printed in the UK by Maney publishing as are my Inventories of the Palace of
White Hall 1542.

I've been in touch with Janet Hogue and she has put me in touch with their
marketing manager Alison Holgate who asked what things the SCA might be
interested in.  I did my best to cover as much as I could and to assure her
that there were plenty of people outside the SCA Period or even
organization who were there ready to be marketed to.  She wrote me back with
these suggestions:

It sounds like we have got loads of titles that would be of interest. In
the way of journals we have...

Costume: Journal of the Costume Society
Textile History
Arms  Armour
Exemplaria: A Journal of Theory in Medieval  Renaissance Studies (history,
theatre, literature, etc)
Medieval Sermon Studies
Medieval Archaeology
Post-Medieval Archaeology
Journal of the British Archaeological Association (?)
Vernacular Architecture (?)

In books we have:
Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd

Some sound a bit peculiar until you realize that Sermons frequently mention
articles of clothing that are too high, too tight, too revealing, etc.
Archeology is where we find a lot of textile or other finds.  Now I have to
have her give me some quotes for prices.  She was thinking it might be
possible to do something on the order of a special rate for people from a
particular e-group.  Such thoughts need to be encouraged!  I did mention
that Queen Elizabeth's Closet was a pretty sure winner for those of us into
that age.  I'm still kicking myself for only buying one of the mispriced
ones!

Wanda Pease


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Re: [h-cost] Costume journal

2007-11-16 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thanks Debbie.

I've sent him an email. All the ones he has listed on his site, I have.

Beth

At 07:02 PM 11/16/2007, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 07:59:41 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I don't remember the numbers, but Paul Meekins had a load of these at the
re-enactor's market last weekend - more than he usually has.

_www.paulmeekins.co.uk_ (http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk)

In a message dated 15/11/2007 19:07:39 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm  missing 1-5 and 39+ (need to re-up and get current) of Costume
(Journal of  the Costume Society). If you hear of someone with any of
these for sale,  please let me know!


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Costume journal was Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii

2007-11-14 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Suzi,

I'm missing 1-5 and 39+ (need to re-up and get current) of Costume 
(Journal of the Costume Society). If you hear of someone with any of 
these for sale, please let me know!


I'm also looking Textile History Vol 18 and Dress #26, 1999. (Journal 
of the Costume Society

of America)

Best price that I could find for Dress at the Court of King Henry 
Viii in the USA was BarnesNoble. They say that it will ship Nov 
20... I've had it on order for awhile.


Beth

At 08:40 PM 11/14/2007, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 14:12:14 +
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]

At 00:01 04/11/2007, you wrote:
I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of use to someone
here as well:

Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii

I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption.  The publication
party for the book was to have been 1 October in England. Which is why the
books are only shipping in time for Christmas.  It is available in the US
for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound
version in that it is larger than 8 x 10) from
http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%20of%20Henr
y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1(David Brown Book company the US
distributor  Look for Oxbow books and click on the $)

Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manley
publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society

This is an Annual Journal, not a quarterly one - I have very nearly a
complete run, and thankfully, there is only one per year!

Suzi


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[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 523

2007-11-06 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I believe that I was the one who posted the original announcement and 
the titles of 5 of the 40 papers. The amazing thing was that I 
ordered on 23 Oct and it arrived 5 Nov... in rural Arkansas (USA)!


Congrats on scoring NESAT 2!

Beth

At 01:02 PM 11/6/2007, you wrote:

Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 22:55:32 -0400
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 9
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1

On Monday 05 November 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
 My copy of NESAT 9 just arrived. It has a long list of very
 interesting articles over a wide geographical area and time period
 (if there is interest, I will try to list the contents over the next few
 days).

Someone actually posted a substantial portion of the table of contents, not
too many days ago.

I plan to buy it, but probably not for a few months at least, since I just
succeeded in finding--and buying--a copy of NESAT 2--something that rarely
turns up on the used book market.

--
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[h-cost] NESAT 9

2007-11-05 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
My copy of NESAT 9 just arrived. It has a long list of very 
interesting articles over a wide geographical area and time period 
(if there is interest, I will try to list the contents over the next few days).


Beth

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[h-cost] Conference publication: Textiles and Text

2007-11-02 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Below is a conference proceedings that has 
several papers that look quite interesting. Wish 
that the price was a bit better though. Currently 
only available from the publisher and Amazon-UK...


Beth

Textiles and Text (Maria Hayward and Chris Bennett eds.)   October 2007
The 3rd conference volume from the AHRC Tesearch 
Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile 
Studies, Textile Conservation Centre, University 
of Southampton ISBN: 9781904982265 £47.50 ( 
$95.00) Paperback 268 Pages 140 colour, 173 half-tones Illustrations

http://www.archetype.co.uk
from the conference http://www.annatextiles.ch/sympindex/06_tex/texrandtex.htm

Textiles and Text
Edited by Maria Hayward and Elizabeth Kramer
This publication focuses on the interrelationship 
between archival and bibliographic research and 
the study of extant objects. Papers consider how 
archival and bibliographic research can inform 
our knowledge of textiles and dress, in terms of 
their production, consumption, dissemination and 
deterioration and in turn, how the study of 
extant objects can give added depth to this 
analysis. The authors include conservators, 
curators, historians and conservation scientists.
These postprints are the third in a series of 
three volumes of papers emanating from the 
conferences of the AHRC Research Centre for 
Textile Conservation and Textile Studies, Textile 
Conservation Centre, University of the 
Southampton, and published by Archetype 
Publications. The themes for the preceding volumes are:


• Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic 
Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and 
Interpretation (published by Archetype 2005)
•The Future of the 20th Century: Collecting, 
Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials (published by Archetype 2006)


CONTENTS

Foreword Maria Hayward
Introduction Elizabeth Kramer

Into the archive
Researching the domestic interior: the example of 
the ‘Chintz Lady’, Elsie de Wolfe Penny Sparke
‘I have bought cloth for you and will deliver it 
myself’: using documentary sources in the 
analysis of the archaeological textile finds from 
Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt Fiona J.L. Handley
What Essex man wore: an investigation into 
Elizabethan dress recorded in wills 1558 to 1603 
Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies

Abundant images and scant text: reading textile pattern books Philip A. Sykas
Recovering identity: the role of textual evidence 
in identifying forgotten azlon fibres from the mid-20th century Mary Brooks


Adopting other strategies, using other sources
‘Wherein Taylors may finde out new fashions’: 
constructing the Costume Research Image Library (CRIL) Jane Malcolm-Davies
Unlocking one facet of Henry VIII’s wardrobe: an 
investigation of the base Maria Hayward

A portrait, two dresses, two samplers and a burning steamship Edward F. Maederv
(Ad)Dressing the century: fashionability and floral frocks Jo Turney
Sound recording and text creation: oral history 
and the Deliberately Concealed Garments Project Dinah Eastop


Uncovering institutions
Late medieval Ladies of the Garter, 1348–1509: 
fact or fiction? Shelagh Mitchell
Lace and documents: the Istituzioni di Ricovero e 
Educazione (IRE) collections in Venice Isabella Campagnol Fabretti
Undated, unattributable and unfinished: forgotten 
samplers and their re-evaluation through archival 
research Joyce A. Taylor Dawson


Tracing textiles in trade: from account books to patents
Fashioning the Tudor court Cinzia Maria Sicca
Costume at the court of Cosimo and Eleonora de 
Medici: on fashion and Florentine textile production Bruna Niccoli
Bought, stolen, bequeathed, preserved: sources 
for the study of 18th-century petticoats Clare Rose
Analysing patents and objects: a preliminary 
investigation into the crinolines of W.S. Thomson Katy May
Patents as a source of information about 
synthetic textile dyes Rosemary M. Baker


The interaction between East and West
A paradise of pretty girls: the kimono and 
perceptions of Japan Elizabeth Kramer
Dragon robes and prairie ladies: the incongruity 
between archives and artefacts Julia Petrov
Chasing the dragon: researching Chinese textiles 
in early 20th-century domestic interiors Sarah Cheang


Domesticity and gender explored and challenged
‘A Linnen Pockett a prayer Book and five keys’: 
approaches to a history of women’s tie-on pockets Barbara Burman
The antimacassar in fact and fiction: how textual 
resources reveal a domestic textile Alice McEwan
‘Inoffensively feminine’: First World War 
military concert parties, female impersonators and their costumes Sarah Norris
Inspiring textile collections: textiles and text 
combined in Winchester School of Art Library and 
in the Special Collections, Hartley Library, 
University of Southampton Libraries Linda Newington


Collaborative approaches: curators, conservators and dress historians
Thistles and Thrissels: Scottish Covenanting 
flags of the 17th and early 18th century George Dalgleish and Lynn McClean
Dye analysis, textiles and text: 

[h-cost] Book: Ancient Textiles

2007-10-28 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

I received my copy from DBBC this week of

Gillis, Carole (ed.)  Nosch, Marie-Louise (ed.) Ancient Textiles 
Production, Crafts and Society. United States: Oxbow Books/David 
Brown Book Co, 2007.  ISBN 1842172026

from the conference http://www3.lu.se/klass/textiles/crossdisciplinary.html

The book contains a large number of papers covering a WIDE time 
period: from the earliest prehistory up to the 18th C. Three papers 
were of particular interest to me:
1) Textile Tools and Production during the Viking Age by 
Eva B. Andersson had a nice table containing the elements of Viking 
costume for men and woment giving the weight of textile for each and 
weaving technique. This estimate is from the reconstruction done in 
Lejre and is based on the Haithabu/Hedeby finds.
2) Textile Production in Proto-historic Italy: from 
Specialists to Workshops by Margarita Gleba has some nice 
information on the weaving of tablet borders and a nice illustration 
of a method using warp-weighted tablets.
3)  Woolen Textiles in Archaeological Finds and 
Descriptions in Written Sources of the 14th to 18th Centuries by 
Kaus Tidow and Eva Jordan-Fahrbach


Please be aware that the Appendix is also available separately as:
Gillis, Carole, and Marie-Louise Nosch. First Aid for the Excavation 
of Archaeological Textiles. [Denmark]: Danish National Research 
Foundation's Centre for Textile Research, 2007. ISBN:9781842172230 
1842172239  OCLC:154660493


Beth 


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[h-cost] cloth and clothing in Britain c. 700-1450

2007-10-24 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Some of you may not be aware of the Lexis Project (see below).
For more information: http://lexisproject.arts.manchester.ac.uk/

The first publication is now available (see below for complete info):
Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD 
450-1100: An Annotated bibliography. by: 
Elizabeth  Coatsworth , Gale R.  Owen-Crocker


Hope that this is of interest.
Beth

===
http://www.arts.manchester.ac.uk/subjectareas/englishamericanstudies/academicstaff/galeowencrocker/
In 2006 Professor Owen-Crocker was awarded 
£765,576 for a 5-year Research Project The lexis 
of cloth and clothing in Britain c. 700-1450: 
origins, identification, contexts and change by 
the Arts and Humanities Research Council.


The Project will produce a database of 
terminology from all the medieval languages of 
the British Isles: Old and Middle English, Old 
Irish, Welsh and other Celtic languages, 
Anglo-Norse, Anglo-Norman and Anglo-Latin and 
will be illustrated with maps, drawings and photographs.


Professor Owen-Crocker is Director of the Project 
in association with Dr Cordelia Warr 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] and Dr Louise 
Sylvester [EMAIL PROTECTED]


The Project will employ two post doctoral 
Research Assistants, one each at Manchester and 
UCE BIrmingham, a part time Administrative 
Assistant, and two part time technical staff. It 
will fund consultancies on Old Irish and Old 
Welsh and the services of an artist/cartographer.


In addition the AHRC is funding a PhD in Art 
History associated with the Project.


The Project begins on 6 November 2006.
   * The Birmingham-based Research Assistant is Dr Mark Chambers.
   * The Manchester-based Administrative Assistant is Brian Schneider
   * The PhD student is Pamela Walker

BAR 445, 2007
Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD 450-1100
An Annotated bibliography
by: Elizabeth  Coatsworth , Gale R.  Owen-Crocker
ISBN: 1407301357 9781407301358 , Price: £36.00 DBBC $90.00
xi+201 pages; 43 b/w plates and drawings, 13 colour plates.

The Manchester Medieval Textiles Project began in 
1994, as a collaboration between Elizabeth 
Coatsworth of Manchester Metropolitan University 
and Gale Owen-Crocker of the University of 
Manchester. Both had specialist interests in the 
literary and material culture of the early 
medieval period, and both were conscious of a gap 
in general knowledge of an important and 
all-pervasive part of that material culture, 
through the relative inaccessibility of sources 
of information regarding medieval textiles. The 
Manchester Medieval Textiles Project developed 
with two objectives, both attempting to bring the 
basic materials of the subject to a wider 
audience. The first is to establish a catalogue 
of all medieval textiles in the British Isles. 
This starts from the needs of a seeker after 
specific textiles, or textile objects, who will 
also be interested in the context of discovery, 
and will be accompanied by a glossary of textile 
terms relevant to the finds. The catalogue will 
be published in due course on the internet, as a 
searchable database, the most useful form for 
those who want to devise their own, new, research 
questions of this material. The second objective 
was to produce this annotated bibliography of 
publications relevant to these textiles. It is 
intended to show the range of sources available 
to the historian of material culture, who wishes 
to consider the evidence from the surviving 
textiles, and whether specific publications will 
have the kind of information they seek. Both 
parts of the Project should enable those 
interested in this material to see what materials 
comparative to their object of interest exist 
throughout the British Isles and Ireland; and the 
differences between cultural areas should also be 
more readily apparent. With Glossary; Annotated 
Bibliography of textiles of the British Isles c. 
AD 450-1100; List of find sites and present 
locations of textiles of the British Isles c. AD 
450-1100; List of find sites of textile tools and 
other evidence of textile manufacture from the 
British Isles c. AD 450-1100 and comparative 
evidence from Europe; List of garments attested 
among textiles of the British Isles c. AD 
450-1100; List of non-clothing textiles attested 
from the British Isles c. AD 450-1100; List of 
historical persons associated with textiles named in the text; General index.
  


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[h-cost] Romanian costume

2007-10-24 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I know how hard it is to find good information on c 15th C costume 
(beautiful embroidery by the way) from southeast Europe, so I thought 
that I'd pass this on:

http://www.heritage.xtd.pl/pdf/full_marincas.pdf

Beth 


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[h-cost] Book: NESAT 9 is out!

2007-10-23 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I know that a few of you are interested in the NESAT (Northern 
European Society for Archaeological Textiles) Volume 9 is now 
available for order.


http://www.archeotex.ch/aktuell.html

I have ordered mine from the Swiss online bookseller.. but given the 
way the post usually works, you will probably get yours before I do. 
The price is 48 CHF (Swiss Francs) plus shipping.


Beth  


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Re: [h-cost] Book: NESAT 9 is out!

2007-10-23 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

I haven't found a full list but these are in it:

Ulla Mannering with L. Ræder Knudsen,
A Danish Early Germanic Iron Age Grave with Tablet Woven Cuffs
Margarita Gleba with J.M. Turfa,
Digging for archaeological textiles in 
museums: ‘New’ finds in the University of 
Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology

Eva Andersson,
Engendering Central Places, some aspects 
of the organisation of textile production during the Viking Age.

Linda Mårtensson,
Toolmakers? – On the production of tools 
for making and treating textiles during the Viking Age.

Heini Kirjavainen,
Some Finnish late Iron Age and Medieval 
Twill Weaves from the 11th to the 15th century.


Hope this helps,
Beth


Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:23:22 -0400
From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Is there a table of contents somewhere online?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler


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RE: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen

2007-10-17 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
On display last year at the Danish National 
Historical Museum, there were some lovely copes 
and embroidery, some tapestries, Eric of 
Pommerania's belt (probably actually a woman's), 
some nice medieval shoes and pattens and some of 
the Greenland finds. I do not remember seeing the gloves.


The Viking and earlier parts of the collection 
were closed. They will reopen next year.


We did not have a lot of time in Copenhagen 
(spent more over on Jutland) due to a foul-up on 
flights by AA, but we will be going back in the 
next couple of years (possibly next year for NESAT).


Beth

At 01:01 PM 10/17/2007, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:00:30 -0500
From: Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen
To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=iso-8859-1

Ooo ... well, start here ...
http://www.world66.com/europe/denmark/copenhagen/museums

But if you go to Nationalmuseet, Danmarks Middelalder og Renæssance, in
Copenhagen please take pictures of the gloves that are there for me!! :D

If they are not on display ask if you can be allowed to see them for a
researcher in the US.

They found a bunch of them in the moats that were filled in. They speculate
that the moats were filled in around 1625 so the gloves they found there
could be from pre 1600. But I gotta see them to really date them accurately.
:)

Thanks!
Chiara Francesca


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann

Greetings,

I am going on a three-day trip to Copenhagen next week. Which museums
are the most interesting for costumes and textiles and are there
shops that are a must-see? I am especially interested in everything
related to the middle ages, but I like all other costumes as well.

Thank you so much for your recommendations,

Hanna


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[h-cost] book: Henry VIII costume

2007-10-03 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward Paperback 
ISBN: 1905981414 Pub. Date: October 28, 2007

http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=showfwid=766

I had an email from Janet Hague (Maney Publishers) today. She says 
that this is now published and available. Since the hardcover is a 
bit expensive, I ordered the paper from Barnes and Noble (best price 
I could find).

http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?r=1EAN=1905981414

Beth 


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[h-cost] Danish Costume

2007-10-03 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Bjarne,

You are probably already aware of the Costume Group of Danish 
Museums, but just in case:

http://www.dragt.dk/index.eng.html

Danish costume bibliography.
http://www.dragt.dk/artikler/index.eng.html

Beth

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Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

2007-09-15 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Melanie,

Late Iron age.. basically contemporaneous with Late Roman Empire.

The best in English about these is in
Hald, Margrethe. Ancient Danish Textiles from 
Bogs and Burials: A Comparative Study of Costume 
and Iron Age Textiles. [Copenhagen]: National 
Museum of Denmark, 1980. ISBN: 8748003123 OCLC: 
8081458 pp. 328-335. Thorsberg and Daetgen photos and drawings.


The original find (from Schlabow):
Moorleichenfund von Dätgen bei Nortorf, Kr. Rendsburg, 1906 - Kleidungsstucke.

If you wish to read the German text from Schlabow, I can send it to you.

There just isn't a lot of pants extant from 
archaeology... male or female... but then there 
aren't many dresses either. So little evidence either way sigh


Beth


Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:27:45 -0400
From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]

On Sep 14, 2007, at 4:41 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:


 The Frauenhose von Dätgen, Kr. Rendsburg. Abb. 184-190  (text
 pp78-79) published in
 Schlabow, Karl. Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in Norddeutschland.
 Gottinger Schriften zur Vor- und Frugeschichte, Bd. 15. Neumunster:
 K. Wachholtz, 1976. ISBN: 3529015156 OCLC: 2526391

What's the date on these?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler


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Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

2007-09-14 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I do not wish to imply that all women in all 
European cultures in all times wore some sort of 
pants under their dresses, but do wish to point 
out a few items still existing that no one has mentioned


The leather bikinis (late Roman time period) 
found in London and on display at the Museum of London.


The Frauenhose von Dätgen, Kr. Rendsburg. Abb. 
184-190  (text pp78-79) published in
Schlabow, Karl. Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in 
Norddeutschland. Gottinger Schriften zur Vor- und 
Frugeschichte, Bd. 15. Neumunster: K. Wachholtz, 
1976. ISBN: 3529015156 OCLC: 2526391


The late period Italian trouseau in the Met 
(examined in detail by one of the list members awhile back).


Beth 


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Re: [h-cost] Book: The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant

2007-08-06 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

I have a copy, but it's been several years since I read it.

Beth

At 01:01 PM 8/6/2007, you wrote:

Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 10:30:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED]

The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant is a book I am thinking of
purchasing but it is over 40.00 where I am looking at before the
discount.

Does anyone have this book? What do you think of her viewpoints
since she is actually working with the garments instead of the
theory of the garment?

Chiara


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Re: [h-cost] Article on Russian Viking-era find

2007-07-26 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thanks Cathy!

Beth

At 03:16 PM 7/26/2007, you wrote:

Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 00:47:47 -0400
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Today on the World Wide Web I stumbled across an English summary by 
Australian

reenactor Peter Beatson of a recent report in Russian, about a Viking era
archaeological find at Pskov in Russia. Apparently a grave at a dig there
turned up two characteristic tortoise brooches, together with some folded
textiles, in a birchbark box. (They definitely were not on a human body.)

The brooches had the remains of loops of blue linen around the pins inside
them. The folded textiles were quite large. One was a panel, about a meter
long and 26 cm wide, consisting of silk strips which the researchers deduced
(on the basis of stitching marks that may have fastened loops) to be
ornamentation from the top of an apron dress. The other piece appears to be a
gathered neckline from a smock or underdress, in blue linen. A sketch of the
possible appearance of these garments when new is provided, both with
Beatson's summary and with the original Russian-language report by the
Russian researchers.

Beatson's summary:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/sarafan/sarafan.htm

Russian report:
http://pskovarheolog.ru/68.html


--
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[h-cost] book finally arrived

2007-07-17 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Natural Dyes by Dominique Cardon Hardcover: 778 pages 560 
Illustrations, Archetype (2007) ISBN: 190498200X


It just got here! I originally pre-ordered it from Amazon in June of 
2006.. and was cancelled. I then re-ordered it from Blackwell-UK... 
and was cancelled. I re-ordered it yet again.. this time from A1Books 
(said they had it in stock) via ABE and shipment was delayed


I was beginning to wonder if I was going to have to order it from the 
publisher and pay full price, but was able to finally get it for 
$108.44 including shipping


Beth

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Re: [h-cost] looking for hi-rez images

2007-07-05 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
How Hi-res do you want? I don't know of any on the web, but I have 
some pretty large scans from various books. The Charles is 3 MB with 
1-2 MB details.


Beth

At 03:49 PM 7/5/2007, you wrote:

Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 13:17:29 -0700
From: Althea Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Greetings all,

I am looking for hi-rez images of the extant arming coats of the
Black Prince and of Charles of Blois, and of the Effigy of the Black
prince in Canterbury Cathedral.  This is so I can make line drawing
illustrations for a class I am teaching later this summer.  I've
found several low-rez versions on the web, but am hoping you know of
better images. Thank you!

Althea Turner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?

2007-07-05 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Suzi,

Have you seen these?

BURIAL CHURCHES OF SPANISH SOVEREIGNS
http://homepage.mac.com/crowns/e/avgal.html

Museo Iglesia del Salvador (Salvador Church 
Museum )  (Oña, Province: 
http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Destinos/Provincias/H/CW/0/Burgos.htm?Language=ENBurgos, 
Region: 
http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Destinos/CCAA/Datos%20Generales/H/0/Geografia.htm?Language=ENCastile-Leon, 
Spain) where the remains of Sancho el Mayor of 
Navarre and count Don Sancho Garcia of Castile, 
whose dress has already been restored. It's 
linen, silk and gold-thread dress, from 920 or 
thereabouts, possibly made in Cordoba.

http://www.spain.info/UK/TourSpain/DetailPage.aspx?postingpath=\Channels\TourSpain\Arte%20y%20Cultura\Museos\H\CW\0\Museo%20del%20Monasterio%20de%20San%20Salvadorcontenttype=Museum

http://www.ayuntamientoona.com/sansalva.htm

Beth

At 03:49 PM 7/5/2007, you wrote:

Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 19:39:17 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed


I'll be going to Madrid again in a few weeks. I plan on finishing off
the third floor of the Prado, visiting the Borne-Misza Museum again
and showing my DH the Palacio Real. However, I have at the back of my
mind that there is a costume museum there, that I missed a couple of
years ago. Does anyone know of this - am I right? Details please if so.

Suzi


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[h-cost] new book

2007-06-20 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

I received my copy of this from BN yesterday:

Scott, Margaret. Medieval Dress  Fashion. London: British Library, 
2007. 208 p. : col. ill. ; 29 cm. hardcover.  ISBN: 9780712306751 
0712306757 OCLC: 76851681  List Price: $55.00 (but available at a 
good discount)


This is a survey of European dress and fashion (800-1600) through a 
study of manuscript illumination and contemporary records. Profusely 
illustrated. A pretty book.


An interesting tidbit is the derivation of scarlet as shorn cloth 
(ie. a fulled and shorn woolen cloth) on pg 19. While no footnotes 
for statements such as these, there is a nice bibliography organized 
by chapters in the back of the book.


Other books by Margaret Scott:

Scott, Margaret. Medieval Clothing and Costumes: Displaying Wealth 
and Class in Medieval Times. The library of the Middle Ages. New 
York: Rosen Pub. Group, 2004. ISBN: 082393991X 9780823939916 OCLC: 50919960


Scott, Margaret. A Visual History of Costume: The Fourteenth  
Fifteenth Centuries. London: B.T. Batsford, 1986.  ISBN: 0713448571 
9780713448573 OCLC: 60029331  OCLC: 15806913


Scott, Margaret. Late Gothic Europe, 1400-1500. The history of dress 
series. London: Mills  Boon, 1980. ISBN: 0263064298 9780263064292 
0391021486 9780391021488 OCLC: 7696226


Beth  


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Re: [h-cost] new book

2007-06-20 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
And that was why it was an interesting tidbit...  since no mention 
was made of other theories. This was surprising with a person of 
these credentials.  It is a survey work, but it makes one wonder what 
other things she glosses over. I am not very far into it as yet...


Beth


Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 07:57:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

On Wed, 20 Jun 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

 Scott, Margaret. Medieval Dress  Fashion. ...

 An interesting tidbit is the derivation of scarlet as shorn cloth
 (ie. a fulled and shorn woolen cloth) on pg 19.

John Munro summarized the thinking on this point in the article he wrote
in this year's volume of MCT. He gives a pretty good argument that
although this theory has been around for a century or so and is still
widely accepted, the hard evidence from the period doesn't support it --
many woolens were fulled and sheared, not just scarlets, and there was
nothing different or more expensive about the shearing process used for
scarlets. He has offered his own theory, first published in his landmark
article on The Medieval Scarlet in 1983 and reprinted elsewhere, that
links the name to the kermes dyestuff, which is indeed the differentiating
characteristic between these cloths and others (and accounts for a huge
proportion of the price difference). Scott certainly would have had no
trouble finding other sources that repeat the older theory, but it's a
shame she didn't pursue the matter by reading the more current (and
well-known) work by Munro.

--Robin


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Re: [h-cost] book - Natural Dyes by Cardon

2007-06-16 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I had it on order at a substantially better price.. let's see if they 
honor the price on my original order.  BTW other booksellers are 
still offering it at a pretty good price.


Beth

At 01:00 PM 6/16/2007, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2007 12:47:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Finally published! ... but the booksellers are still waiting.

 Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science by Dominique
 Cardon ISBN: 190498200x

 http://www.archetype.co.uk/ click on 'recently published'

Looks like a cool book but $170??!!  Yikes!

Diana


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[h-cost] NESAT 9

2007-06-15 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Just to let you know, the editing of the last 
papers for NESAT 9 are nearing completion.  I'll 
pass on how to get it when I know more.


The NESAT 10 conference will be in Copenhagen on 
14-17 May 2008. Deadline for submission of papers 
is 1st July 2007.  http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/nesat/


Preliminary program
13 May, Tuesday 18-20: CTR/University of 
Copenhagen - reception and registration

14 May, Wednesday  9-17: CTR/University of Copenhagen - sessions
15 May, Thursday  9-17: CTR/University of Copenhagen - sessions
16 May, Friday9-14: CTR/University of Copenhagen - sessions
17 May, Saturday   9-15: Prinsens Palæ/National Museum of Denmark - sessions

Other events
National Museum of Denmark - opening of the new 
exhibition of the prehistoric section.

Lejre Experimental Centre - research visit


Beth

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[h-cost] book - Natural Dyes by Cardon

2007-06-15 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Finally published! ... but the booksellers are still waiting.

Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science by Dominique 
Cardon ISBN: 190498200x


http://www.archetype.co.uk/ click on 'recently published'

I have had a copy on order from Blackwell for some time.. still 
waiting on a shipping notice.


Beth 


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[h-cost] upcoming book

2007-06-04 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Thought that this book (to be released November) 
might be of interest. I haven't seen a review as yet.


Beth

Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the 
Origins of Fashion from the Paleolithic to the Present.

Author: ANAWALT, PATRICIA R
Price: $100.00 ($63.00  Amazon pre-order)
ISBN: 9780500513637  ISBN-10: 0500513635
Description: London: Thames and Hudson, 2007. 
29cm., hardcover, 608pp., 1100 illus., 800 in 
color. ^Available November 2007^.


Dr. Patricia Rieff Anawalt, founding director of 
the Center for the Study of Regional Dress­an 
endowed research facility composed of offices and 
a laboratory located within the Fowler Museum (UCLA) ­opened on June 6, 1993.
The aim of the Center's program is to advance the 
study of cloth and clothing traditions, past and 
present, through teaching and research.  


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[h-cost] Re: Perpignan cloth

2007-05-17 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Hi Kathy

Cardon's book is excellent (makes me wish that I 
was fluent in French!) and covers an region of 
Europe that I have been having trouble finding 
info on. It is a very thick (661 pages) paperback 
with 21 references to Perpignan in the Index des 
noms de lieux  and one  perpagnani in the Index 
des termes techniques.. pg 514. I ordered my copy from Amazon-fr.


BTW. Perpignan was not part of France at the time we are discussing

Beth

At 07:51 AM 5/17/2007, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 16 May 2007 22:35:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Perpignan cloth

Hi Beth,

A... you've just saved me a bunch of 
headaches and time consumption. I am stronger in 
French than I am in Italian! So the reference 
only occurs in text outside of direct cloth manufacture, hmm. That's annoying.
Gar. This French book only shows up in a couple 
of libraries around here, all of which charge 
for the ILL. hmm.. unless I convince a local to 
U of T to snag it for me and make a copy. My 
husband is fully bilingual, I can bribe him to 
at least look up the indexes for me and see if the references are any good.

Darn! And I was hoping to solve my issues with something easy!

Gee... I wonder if contacting a museum in 
Perpignan might prove fruitful? I wonder if they 
have something like that. *goes googling*
Aha. I think I may have something. The village 
indeed does have museums (these are the 
divisions most likely to have information useful to us):



  Musée
des Beaux-Arts Hyacinthe Rigaud

16, rue de l'Ange

66000 PERPIGNAN

Tél : 04 68 35 81 23

Mél : [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Peinture

  Musée
du Castillet Casa Pairal

Place de Verdun

66000 PERPIGNAN

Tél : 04 68 35 42 05

Arts et traditions populaires


  Musée
archéologique de Ruscino

(en cours de création)

Centre Archéologique de Ruscino

Château Roussillon

66000 PERPIGNAN

Tél : 04 68 67 47 17

Site archéologique


I'll have to wait until hub is awake and in a 
mood to be coerced into helping me to brew up a 
contact email. We can hope they know what we are 
talking about, or at least something that helps 
clear up just what this stuff really is.



Onto a new adventure...

Kathy


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Re: [h-cost] Perpignan cloth

2007-05-16 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Hi Kathy,

I ran into this about a year or so ago from the same source and 
couldn't find out any more info on it. I have a copy of


Hoshino, Hidetoshi. L'arte della lana in Firenze nel basso Medioevo: 
il commercio della lana e il mercato dei panni fiorentini nei secoli 
XIII-XV. Biblioteca storica toscana, 21. Firenze: L.S. Olschki, 1980. 
ISBN: 889568 OCLC: 7530060


that Frick references regarding this but, while useful, it's focus is 
on trade and economics and I could find no hint of the weave 
structure. I also attempted to contact Dr. Frick (she teaches at a 
University in Oklahoma.. the next state over) as to why she used the 
term jersey to describe it but never received a reply.


The only other book that I have that mentions (in a textile context) 
Perpignan is


Cardon, Dominique. La draperie au Moyen Age: essor d'une grande 
industrie europe enne. Paris: CNRS Ed, 1999. ISBN: 227105592X  OCLC: 50663845


As I am seriously weak in French, this is proving very slow going for me.

Beth


Date: Tue, 15 May 2007 14:07:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I have just been flipping through Dressing Renaissance Florence, and 
they mention hosiery itself was made of perpignan cloth 
(perpignano), a washable and stretchy woolen jersey fabric, 
originally developed by weavers in Perpignan, France.
Has anyone ever heard of this stuff before, and if so, what is its' 
weave structure? What would it be close to in modern terms? This 
answers a lot of questions why Italian men's hose are so smooth and 
tight looking. If I can find a reasonable equivalent, it will make 
my job MUCH easier on this commission that I have been stalled on for so long.


Kathy


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RE: [h-cost]Authentic fabric widths

2007-05-06 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

I'll check Arnold. Thanks to both of you for replying.

I have an image in one of my books of a church in France where the 
yard stick is carved into the exterior wall.


I do remember that English woolen broadcloth was about 2 yards wide 
and that various silks and silk velvets were in the range of 2 feet or less.


I was hoping that someone already had a list of the variations in 
width and length online somewhere. Just lazy I guess... another 
project for my to-do list! ...eventually it will get done, I promise. grin


Take care,
Beth

At 07:19 PM 5/5/2007, you wrote:

Date: Sat, 5 May 2007 16:35:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]

There's some information in the back of the
Elizabethan Patterns of Fashion (Janet Arnold)

MaggiRos
--- WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'll go look, but as I recall there were various
 widths available during
 these times.  I know for sure that an ell was
 different lengths in different
 places at different times.  Some widths were
 surprisingly wide...like 60
 inches.  I'll get back to you.


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Re: [h-cost]fabric widths (was Theater vs. Historic)

2007-05-04 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

At 01:01 PM 5/4/2007, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 10:59:58 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

snip
Always nice to change the subject line when the topic changes
radically.;-)


Yes, it is! I have been skipping posts on this topic (Theater vs. Historic)

Does anyone have a good summary of standard widths and lengths of 
fabrics in the Medieval and Renaissance periods?


I know that it varied by type of textile (weave, location and fiber), 
but all I have is scattered all over the place in my notes.


Thanks,
Beth 


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[h-cost] Re: h-cost] Update on Janet Arnold book

2007-04-22 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thank you Suzi! Please keep us updated.

Beth

At 06:17 PM 4/22/2007, you wrote:

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 22:28:47 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]

There has been a rumour in the costume world here in England that
Jenny Tiramani, formerly head of Costume at the Globe Theatre, had
taken over the writing of Janet's books. Well, this evening, I asked
her this very question. I was very clearly told that she has not
Taken over the writing, but was merely helping Santina Levy,
Janet's literary executor. I also had the privilege of meeting Tina
at the same event, and together she and Jenny told me that the first
of the books, on ruffs, shirts, smocks, is being worked on now.  No
date was given for completion, and I did not ask, as I felt I had
been given privileged information anyway.

Jenny asked me to make very clear to anyone interested that Santina
Levy was still the principal editor/writer, and that Jenny was merely
helping her. If I get any more news, I will certainly pass it on.

Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] Medieval Dress and Fashion

2007-04-04 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I pre-ordered my copy last February from Amazon-CA (best price). I 
received a note from them yesterday saying that the order was delayed.


Beth

At 09:06 PM 4/4/2007, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 17:02:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Dress and Fashion
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi Robin,

  When you get in a copy, please let us know your review, even tho 
Fran already ordered it. I am curious but not enough to buy it 
until I know how well it would work for me. Fran, if you want to 
give a review as well when you get it in, please do.


  Thank you both,

  Kimiko


Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I have a
request in to see a review copy of the book, so I'll let you know when I
get it.

Book blurb is here:
http://shop.bl.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/BritishLibrary/ISBN%5F0712306757

--Robin


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Re: [h-cost] New Henry VIII Dress Book

2007-03-27 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I've been monitoring this closely also. Prices 
are now up on the publisher's webpages

http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=showfwid=649

They are saying September at  £118.00/US$228.00 
for hardcover and £48.00/US$96.00  for paperback. for Hayward's book.
488 pages with ca 172 black and white 
illustrations plus 25 colour illustrations


Beth


Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 21:41:39 -0800
From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]

David Brown Book Company is enticing those of us that the marketing director
knows are addicted to well researched costume and history books.
They expect to be bringing a hard back and paperback version of Howard's new
Dress at the Court of Henry VIII out in October.  Watch this space for more
details.  Only thing I know now is this puppy is not a costume book but an
academic one more on the order of Queen Elizabeth's Closet.  I.e.  it isn't
going to be cheap.


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey


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Re: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion

2007-03-22 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I can attest to the comfort of this dress. I have been wearing this 
style for about 20 years in the SCA.. summer and winter in the South 
and over some fairly wide weight changes with minor adjustments. My 
first was with the cord (still have), but since have used straps.


Beth

At 02:10 AM 3/22/2007, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 21:08:40 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007, Gail  Scott Finke wrote:

 I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before.
 How does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the
 front of the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or
 cord of some kind attached to the back of the dress.

That pretty much describes it. As far as I can tell, it makes the dress
more adjustable -- and would be easier to make without having to fit
exactly to the person. I suppose it might also be done as an alteration to
fit a later wearer.

As it happens, I did mine with a solid strap as seen in some of the other
images, but I used this image as the source for some other details in the
side lacing and skirt.

--Robin


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[h-cost] Re: h-cost] ISO Polish 16th-17th c. info and contact

2007-02-28 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

This bibliography may help:
http://www.faena.medievaltextiles.org/biblio.html

Beth


Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 10:30:33 -0600
From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I know someone who is having trouble finding sources for research Polish
and Lithuanian dress 1550-1650.  He has the Irina Turnau book and images
from the Balthasaris Behem manuscript and a few paintings.  In
particular, he is researching clothing of the noble class, but not that
of the court.  What he needs is ways to find more info and color images
of clothing from this time, place, and social class, and more
importantly, someone who speaks Polish who can direct him to sources of
information on the topic.  Books, websites, museums--all suggestions are
welcome.  Any Polish-speaker who can direct him to more info would be
most appreciated.

Please reply to me privately at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Many thanks,
Melanie Schuessler


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Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures

2007-02-25 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

You may also find this website from the Czech Republic of interest

http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/obsah.htm

Beth

At 01:00 PM 2/25/2007, you wrote:

Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 01:32:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks for that link! I didn't know someone has done such a research about 
surviving garments... I think this won't help me much directly in this 
project, but it'll surely help me in the future:-))


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Re: [h-cost] Early Medieval horisontal looms

2007-02-09 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thank you very much. Any evidence helps!

Beth


Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 11:29:33 + (GMT)
From: Lena [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Early Medieval horisontal looms

A while ago, someone on this list asked for reference
to a shuttle found in Waterford, Ireland. I've come
across a completely unrelated object, but relevant for
the early medieval horisontal looms: A pulley from
Sigtuna, Sweden (dated to 11th-12th centuries).
Picture here:
http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/fid.asp?fid=117780

My source (in swedish):
http://histvarld.historiska.se/histvarld/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2335

If you want more info, either contact me, or ask the
forum directly (scroll down the main forum page for
the English forum).

Hope this can be of use to some of you.

/Lena


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RE: [h-cost] looking for picture in color

2007-02-08 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Photographs are permitted at the Met. hint Unfortunately, I live too far 
(Arkansas) to run in and take some! I do have the big Met catalog.. I'll 
check it. Couldn't find the painting in Storia.


Beth


Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 15:13:12 -0500
From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi Bjarne--
Yes, it looks to be embroidered. The painting is so muck lovelier than the
BW photo.  I have spent some time at the Met staring at it. The guards
always tell me not to get too close...

Monica


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RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint

2007-02-02 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
David Brown http://www.oxbowbooks.com/ is very good to deal with, but so is 
Michael Shamansky http://www.artbooks.com/  Speaking of which, has anyone seen:


Dalla testa ai piedi. Costume e moda in età gotica. Atti del Convegno di 
Studi, Trento, (From head to foot. Custom and fashion in the Gothc Age.) 
7-8 ottobre 2002 edited by Laura Dal Pra and Paolo Peri. ISBN: 8877021659 
Price: $82.50 Shamansky
Description: Trento: Provincia Autonoma di Trento, 2006. 28cm., pbk., 
622pp. prof. illus., most in color. Papers from the symposium held on the 
occasion of the exhibition Il Gotico nelle Alpi. (Beni Artistici e 
Storici del Trentino, Quaderni, 12)


Beth

At 06:04 AM 2/2/2007, you wrote:

Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 23:26:37 -0800
From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book.  David Brown
books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry it.  That way they can do
all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like about $99.50 but don't
quote me yet) and making it available.  They speak English, they do mail
order all the time; they take plastic.  I've even known them to make a deal
where you pay in installments!

If there was ever a book that those who love the Italian Renaissance either
in costuming or in history (or both).  You NEED this book!

Stay tuned to this Group for further developments!

Regina Romsey



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Re: [h-cost] Romanesque costume

2007-02-01 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Thanks Robin,

I have that article on my list!

Beth


Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 08:18:07 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton

I haven't seen the thesis and can't speak to it, but Jennifer Harris had
an excellent article on 12th-century clothing in a collection of essays
edited by my colleague Gale Owen-Crocker a few years ago.

(rustle, rustle) Here it is:

Jennifer Harris, Estroit vestu et menu cosu: Evidence for the
construction of twelfth-century dress, in _Medieval Art: R4ecent
Perspectives: A memorial tribute to C. R. Dodwell_, ed. Gale R.
Owen-Crocker and Timothy Graham (Manchester University Press, 1998).

ILL *that* book. You'll get a good idea of Harris's outlook from that, and
then you can decide whether to plunk down the bucks to get the thesis. (My
general feeling is that while I disagree with a few of her
interpretations, it is a well-researched article that brings together a
lot of hard-to-find evidence in a refreshingly coherent fashion.)

Based on the title of the thesis, I wonder if the article I mention above
wouldn't be much more in line with your interests anyway!

--Robin


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[h-cost] Romanesque costume

2007-01-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

I am considering ordering a photocopy of

Romanesque-Byzantine Elements in French and English Dress 1050-1180 by 
Jennifer Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977)


Has anyone seen/read this Thesis? I am not able to ILL this in the US, so a 
copy would have to be ordered from the Univ. of Manchester... and it's a 
bit pricey.


A short article based on it was in Costume (Journal of the Costume Society) 
number 21 (1987) pp 4-15 'Thieves, Harlots and Stinking Goats': 
Fashionable Dress and Aesthetic Attitudes in Romanesque Art.


Thanks.
Beth Matney

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[h-cost] missing digest

2007-01-18 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
For some reason I'm not getting the H-Costume Digests reliably. The problem 
began with h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 28 and they have since been 
coming in random order or missing completely.


Could someone send h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 34 to me?

Thanks.
Beth  


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[h-cost] RE: [Schuette

2006-12-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Ooh... so this is the little bitty one!  I haven't seen the big Daddy. Time 
to go library snooping again


Thanks.
Beth

At 01:13 AM 12/31/2006, you wrote:

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 15:34:31 -0800
From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Which is the 336pp., 11.5 x 8.5. (29 colour plates and 463 in
 b/w). Praeger
 1964 edition?

That's the little single volume one.  I think the two volume tombstone size
books came out in about 1929.  Some of the items shown in those books no
longer exist thanks to the Big war that swept across Europe a few years
later.

Regina


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[h-cost] RE: Schuette

2006-12-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I found these but could not find an English edition. Were these what you 
were talking about?


Beth

Gestickte Bildteppiche und Decken des Mittelalters by Schuette, Marie. 
Leipzig: K.W. Hiersemann, 1927. First edition. Cloth (hardback). Elephant 
Folio (51 cm). Illus. with 20 color and 42 monochrome collotype 
reproductions. Embroidered Fancy Tapestries and coverlets of the Middle 
Ages. The first of three projected volumes (volume III was never 
published). It is still the standard work on the subject. Of the 62 51x65.5 
cm plates, 28 are of tapestries and altar-cloths of the nunnery of 
Wienhausen near Celle, 30 of the nunnery Lune near Luneburg, and 4 of the 
Luneburg Museum. Text in German. Issue B bound in buckram with the plates 
folded and mounted on guards in the middle (issue A was a double-size 
portfolio, unfolded). Includes the offering prospectus in English from B. 
Westermann.


Gestickte Bildteppiche Und Decken Des Mittelalters by Schuette, Marie. Band 
II: Braunschweig; Die Kloester Ebstorf  Isenhagen; Wernigerode; Kloster 
Druebeck; Halberstadt. 52 plates (12 color), folio.  


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[h-cost] CIETA Embroidery Newsletters

2006-12-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

This site might be of interest:
http://www.annatextiles.ch/newslet/newsint.htm

Includes the CIETA Embroidery Newsletters from Dec. 1995 to Sept 2006

You might also find her home page http://www.annatextiles.ch/index.html of 
interest.


Beth

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[h-cost] book of interest

2006-12-31 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Has anyone seen this book? It's a bit expensive (even with the 10% discount 
from the publisher), so I would ILL


Please note the comment about fictional fabrics: how artists catered for 
an audience that desired to have gold brocades depicted but did not always 
possess the financial means to own the actual fabrics.


Beth

Gold Brocade and Renaissance Painting. A Study in Material Culture by 
Rembrandt Duits. 24 x 17 cm 484 pp. 290 illus. £150.00 (November 2006) ISBN 
1904597424 Cloth.


Rembrandt Duits completed his PhD at the University of Utrecht , and works 
at the Photographic Collection of the Warburg Institute, where he also 
teaches Renaissance material culture. His thesis, Gold Brocade and 
Renaissance Painting, won the Karel van Mander Prijs for the best 
publication on art between 1500 and 1800.


Gold Brocade and Renaissance Painting discusses the representation of 
Italian Renaissance patterned silks in paintings from Italy and the 
Southern Netherlands , from the 14th to the 16th century. It is the first 
study to approach this subject from the perspective of material culture, 
attempting to answer such questions as why the subject of luxury textiles 
gained so great a popularity in Renaissance painting, how artists catered 
for an audience that desired to have gold brocades depicted but did not 
always possess the financial means to own the actual fabrics, and what the 
skills artists developed in this field contributed to the rising social 
status of the medium of painting. The material culture of the grand courts 
at which real gold brocade played an essential role in the display of 
wealth and status is compared to that of the socially ambitious but less 
affluent middle class for whom paintings were often the only affordable 
substitute for courtly splendour. Thus, the book also addresses the problem 
of the distinction between fact and fiction, imagination and reality in the 
account of contemporary social history presented in paintings.


Contents
   * Introduction
   * Fictional Fabrics. The Correlation between Real and Depicted Silk 
Textiles

   * Conspicuous Consumption. The Markets for Gold Brocades and Paintings
   * Princely Patronage. The Function of Gold Brocades and Paintings at 
Grand Courts

   * Derived Display. Imitation of the Courtly Model by Urban Elites
   * Conflicting Connotations. The Role of Gold Brocade in Renaissance 
Iconography

   * Index
http://www.pindarpress.co.uk/catalogue/early-italian/duits-brocade.htm 



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[h-cost] Schuette was RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery

2006-12-30 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Which is the 336pp., 11.5 x 8.5. (29 colour plates and 463 in b/w). Praeger 
1964 edition?


Beth

At 01:00 PM 12/30/2006, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2006 23:23:00 -0800
From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]

By Schuette do you mean the little Pictorial History of 
Embroidery or the

whacking great tombstone size two volume edition?  Remember that I have the
little one, and Multnomah County Library, Portland, OR (our little town) has
the big one.  We have GOT to arrange to spend a day or so photographing the
big one with my digital camera.  If that works it's DVD time!

Wanda


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[h-cost] New book 14th C Italy

2006-12-14 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
After all the talk about books that are delayed in publication, I thought 
that I'd mention one that I've just got in today. Has anyone else seen it?


Beth

Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy by Susan 
Mosher Stuard 336 pages | 6 1/8 x 9 1/4 | 14 color, 10 b/w illus. Cloth Dec 
2005 | ISBN 0812239008

http://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/14208.html

In the fourteenth century, garish ornaments, bright colors, gilt, and 
military effects helped usher in the age of fashion in Italy. Over a short 
span of years important matters began to turn on the cut of a sleeve. 
Fashion influenced consumption and provided a stimulus that drove demand 
for goods and turned wealthy townspeople into enthusiastic consumers. 
Making wise decisions about the alarmingly expensive goods that composed a 
fashionable wardrobe became a matter of pressing concern, especially when 
the market caught on and became awash in cheaper editions of luxury wares.


Focusing on the luxury trade in fashionable wear and accessories in Venice, 
Florence, and other towns in Italy, Gilding the Market investigates a major 
shift in patterns of consumption at the height of medieval prosperity, 
which, more remarkably, continued through the subsequent era of plague, 
return of plague, and increased warfare. A fine sensitivity to the demands 
of le pompe, that is, the public display of private wealth, infected town 
life. The quest for luxuries affected markets by enlarging exchange 
activity and encouraging retail trades. As both consumers and tradesmen, 
local goldsmiths, long-distance traders, bankers, and money changers played 
important roles in creating this new age of fashion.


In response to a greater public display of luxury goods, civic sumptuary 
laws were written to curb spending and extreme fashion, but these were 
aimed at women, youth, and children, leaving townsmen largely unrestricted 
in their consumption. With erudition, grace, and an evocative selection of 
illustrations, some reproduced in full color, Susan Mosher Stuard explores 
the arrival of fashion in European history.
=  


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[h-cost] wool/worsted was Re: striped skirt

2006-12-11 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Not quite. It has to do with the fiber length and the way the fiber is 
prepared for spinning. Worsted was combed long staple and woolen was carded 
short staple that is spun to make thread. Because combing lays fibers along 
the length of the thread, it makes a stronger thread, but woolen can be 
fulled and a nap raised and sheared.


The progression in history was combed (worsted...wasn't called that until 
much later), half worsted (combed warp, carded weft), then woolen. Like 
most generalities, this is over-simplified (Romans also had napped and 
sheared wool textiles).


Early wheel spun thread was deemed too weak to take the stresses as warp, 
causing an inferior cloth. There were quite sensible reasons for the guild 
regulations: it has to do with reputation, market and getting premium 
prices. Since textile towns (and their guilds) lived or died.. quite 
literally.. based on the sales of their products, they were not inclined to 
take too many unnecessary risks.


Beth

At 11:17 AM 12/11/2006, you wrote:

Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:09:30 -0500
From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Worsted vs woolen-- pretty funny, since both are wool. Worsted is just a
fine spun wool.
Monica


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[h-cost] textiles was Re: striped skirt

2006-12-11 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Many cities, not just the Italian ones used color coded selvages.. and 
there were cases of other cities counterfeiting them. I believe I read 
about these in various economic history books studying the wool trade, 
probably Carus-Wilson or Bridbury. Lead cloth seals were also used to mark 
the origin of the textiles.


Lead cloth seals were used up to modern times. I got a bolt of cotton the 
other year with one on it!


I know of no cases of mixing fibers in the thread in Medieval (or earlier) 
Europe (with the possible exception of dog/wool blends in the Greenland 
finds). Many cases of mixing threads in a cloth however (some quite 
famous): silk warp/cotton weft (mulham), linen warp/cotton weft (fustian), 
linen/woolen (linsey-woolsey) and  silk/woolen come to mind.


Beth

At 12:38 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote:

Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 18:25:12 +
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt

Yes, there were laws, but IIRC, the purpose was to keep unscrupulous 
weavers and merchants from selling cloth at a higher cost just because 
they could say it was woven with blank.  They'd just leave out the 
'percentage' that blank.  Just like the other guilds, they kept a close 
watch on their members, for fraud.  I think that there might some examples 
of guild members being publicly punished, such as bakers, and other such 
folks.


Queen Elizabeth, at the urging of different guilds, to do some 
proclamations, but nothing specific comes to mind. Drat!


I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the Italian city-state 
guilds had even instigated the use of color coding the selvedges, to keep 
track.


I'm away from my books, so don't can't verify right now.  And my memory 
may be playing me false!  Anyone who can help with those vague memories or 
let me know that my memory might be out of kilter, please post!


Well, back to work...
Elena/Gia


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[h-cost] Re: Anglo-Saxon clothing book

2006-12-07 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I've had this on pre-order since April of 2005. Yes, 20 months! It has been 
delayed so many times that I was waiting until I had my copy before posting 
any more about it.


David Brown Books (Oxbow) is discounting it for pre-orders.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 12/7/2006, you wrote:

Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 01:32:48 -0600
From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Not my era, but Amazon just sent me this and it sounded like it might pique
someone's interest:

---
We've noticed that customers who have expressed interest in Knives and
Scabbards (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London) by J. Cowgill have
also ordered Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700
(CBA Research Reports) by Penelope Rogers.  For this reason, you might like
to know that Penelope Rogers's Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon
England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research Reports) will be released on December 20,
2006.

Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research
Reports) (Paperback)
by Penelope Rogers
Paperback: 250 pages
Publisher: Council for British Archaeology (December 20, 2006)
Language: English
ISBN: 1902771540


-E House


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[h-cost] Re: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII

2006-12-06 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
They have told me that the price has not been set yet.  Hopefully, they 
will realize that there is quite a market if the price is reasonable.


Beth

At 07:36 AM 12/6/2006, you wrote:

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 22:29:10 -0500
From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Quoting Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 For those awaiting (such as I am) Dress at the Court of King Henry
 VIII, the publisher has informed me that the release date has been
 delayed to May 2007.

Do you have any idea about how much it's going to cost?

susan


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[h-cost] Re: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII

2006-12-06 Thread Beth and Bob Matney

Cindy,

I included the link in my original post. Sometimes things don't go through, 
so here it is again:  http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=showfwid=649


Beth

At 11:33 AM 12/6/2006, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 09:08:54 -0600
From: Abel, Cynthia [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Who is the publisher? If they have a website, we can check for
publication date and price as the publication date nears. This would be
a dream book for me if the price isn't too high.

Cindy Abel


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[h-cost] Journals

2006-12-06 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
Living in a rural area, one of things that I do not have access to are back 
issues of certain journals. If any of you have back issues of the following 
that they would like to sell, please contact me.


1) Costume: Journal of the Costume Society
2) Textile History
3) Archaeological Textiles Newsletter

It would be much appreciated.

Beth  


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