Re: [Hornlist] pre 1957 horn texts

2009-07-13 Thread corno911

Also, Birchard Coar's  The French Horn was published around 1950

Paul Navarro

-Original Message-
From: sot...@cybermesa.com
To: Leonard  Peggy Brown waldh...@sbcglobal.net; The Horn List 
horn@music.memphis.edu

Sent: Mon, Jul 13, 2009 12:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] pre 1957 horn texts

Birchard Coar's  A Critical Study of Nineteenth Century Horn Virtuosi 
in

France is from 1952.

Steve Ovitsky



Leonard wrote:

Seems like most of the books I have seen about the horn (Morley~Pegge,
Robin
Gregory,etc) came out after 1957.  This may be due to Dennis Brain's 

life.
I know there are others out there. can you suggest some horn 

books,

not
methods, from pre 1957?

LLB



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[Hornlist] (No subject)Where not to take your horn-

2009-07-08 Thread corno911


Some may think this is not necessarily horn related, but I think those 
who travel with their horn will really appreciate it.  Plus, it is a 
good group.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YGc4zOqozo

Paul Navarro



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Re: [Hornlist] Receiver size on Selman double horn

2009-04-30 Thread corno911

Tina,

The only way you can tell exactly where the ventura is in a mouthpipe 
is to measure it .

This is done with a small hole gauge.
It must be done carefully, and once you know where it is, you can mark 
that place on the outside of the mouthpipe with a piece of tape, and 
then mark, on the mouthpiece shank, how for it goes into the mouthpipe. 
You can then compare the two measurements by placing the mouthpiece 
alongside the mouthpipe and compare the end of the mouthpiece and the 
mark for the ventura.


Unfortunately, while many makers would claim otherwise, the ventura 
placement is not consistent from maker to maker, or consistent within 
many makers instruments.


Most custom mouthpipes do not come with mouthpieces that fit the horn's 
ventura. While many standard mouthpiece makers may use the same taper 
for their mouthpiece shanks,  the thickness of the shanks can vary due 
to buffing, poor fabrication, and carelessness. The result is that even 
though the taper of the mouthpiece shank and the negative taper may be 
the same, they may in reality not match up the way they should.
Also as Kendall pointed out, as mouthpipes wear, the mouthpipe opening 
can wear or stretch and end up causing a poor fit between the 
mouthpiece and the mouthpipe. Wear on the mouthpiece shank can have the 
same result.


While some of the custom horn makers are pretty close in where they 
place the ventura in the mouthpipe, it is not an aspect of horn 
building that gets the amount of attention that it deserves.


In my shop I work primarily on professional's horns so I have seen and 
worked on,(or owned) all of the major maker's horns and have seen 
variances that are sometimes very suprising- not in a good way.


The only maker whose horns I have played or worked on that have 
seriously consistent ventura placement are Walter Lawson's horns.


Paul



-Original Message-
From: Tina Barkan tina.bar...@gmail.com
To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 7:13 am
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Receiver size on Selman double horn

Paul -
You say, The end of the mouthpiece should ideally come right to the
beginning of the ventura. If these line up, they provide a taper that
expands from the bore of the mouthpiece to the cylindrical tubing of
the horn without gaps or obstructions.

If the negative taper can vary from 1/2 to 1 long is there anyway to
know for sure that the end of the mouthpiece actually comes right to
the beginning of the ventura? If one buys a custom leadpipe does it
come with it's own custom mouthpiece? I'm guessing but it seems to me
that the length of the negative taper may be one of the specs that
custom leadpipe manufacturers change in order to make their great
leadpipes. All of the stock mouthpiece manufacturers must be making
some assumption about the  length of the negative taper and this
length may not correspond to the length of the negative taper of a
custom leadpipe.

Thanks,
Tina


On Apr 29, 2009, at 11:09 PM, corno...@aol.com wrote:


HI Steve,

Here is a very basic answer to your question.

A lead pipe has three primary physical components that are important
to its acoustical design.

They are:

A. the negative taper. This is the 1st section (aprox. 1/2 to 1 long)
that the mouthpiece fits into.

It is called the negative taper because, to accept the  taper of the
mouthpiece
shank, the taper measures from large to smaller. This is in opposition
to the main  mouthpipe taper, which tapers from smaller to larger.

B. The Ventura. This is the smallest cross section measurement of
the mouthpipe,
where the negative taper and the main taper meet.

C. The main taper of the mouthpipe. This is the portion of the
mouthpipe taper that goes from the ventura to the beginning of the
cylindrical tubing.


The end of the mouthpiece should ideally come right to the beginning
of
the  ventura.
If these line up, they provide a taper that expands from the bore of
the mouthpiece to the cylindrical tubing of the horn without gaps or
obstructions.

If the mouthpiece goes past the ventura, or not far enough into the
mouthpipe to meet it, response and intonation  will generally be
degraded.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn



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Re: [Hornlist] Receiver size on Selman double horn

2009-04-30 Thread corno911

Jeremy wrote:

You can have whatever length of taper you'd like. It's the rate of
taper that's important. If the rate of taper of both the leadpipe and
the mouthpice are identical (which is an agreed upon standard), then
your mouthpiece could go in .1 or 2 and it won't make any
difference.  That is of course as long as the end of the mouthpiece
and the venturi line up (which, if the rate of taper is the same, they
should)

Jeremy,

The problem with this in practice, is that even though the mouthpiece 
shank and the negative taper of the mouthpipe have the same rate of 
taper, it does not mean they will line up.


When you have a certain rate of taper, the dimensions of two pieces 
lining up are only similar if they are cut at the correct ( meaning the 
same dimensional ) place.
You could theoretically have a mouthpiece with a 0 morse taper on the 
shank and a mouthpipe with a 0 morse negative taper,  and if cut in the 
wrong place along the length of the taper, the mouthpiece might not 
even fit into the mouthpipe-- even though they were both the same rate 
of taper.


Paul


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[Hornlist] Receiver size on Selman double horn

2009-04-29 Thread corno911

HI Steve,

Here is a very basic answer to your question.

A lead pipe has three primary physical components that are important
to its acoustical design.

They are:

A. the negative taper. This is the 1st section (aprox. 1/2 to 1 long)
that the mouthpiece fits into.

It is called the negative taper because, to accept the  taper of the 
mouthpiece

shank, the taper measures from large to smaller. This is in opposition
to the main  mouthpipe taper, which tapers from smaller to larger.

B. The Ventura. This is the smallest cross section measurement of the 
mouthpipe,

where the negative taper and the main taper meet.

C. The main taper of the mouthpipe. This is the portion of the
mouthpipe taper that goes from the ventura to the beginning of the 
cylindrical tubing.



The end of the mouthpiece should ideally come right to the beginning of
the  ventura.
If these line up, they provide a taper that expands from the bore of
the mouthpiece to the cylindrical tubing of the horn without gaps or
obstructions.

If the mouthpiece goes past the ventura, or not far enough into the
mouthpipe to meet it, response and intonation  will generally be
degraded.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn



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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

2009-04-26 Thread corno911

William,

You may disagree with this statement completely, but it is important to
consider two of your own statements.

The first is:
The sound might not be what you desire.

If you don't understand how important the sound color and weight are in
Baroque concerti ( or for all music), then there is  no basis for a
discussion.

The second is :
Also, where do people get the notion that below a particular note you
must
use another horn completely? If you can get away with the same horn and
a
decent sound and still play it musically, who cares?

Robson's question was about a Bb/Bb alto instrument.
My statement refered to that instrument.
If you consider intonation part of what constitutes a musical
performance, then you should understand that while it may be possible
to play on only one horn ( and I assume you actually mean one side of
this particular instrument- the Bb alto side), the intonation
possibilities for the lower register notes using the normal Bb horn are
much more satisfactory because you have more usuable overtone positions
to work with on the regular Bb horn than on the Bb alto horn.
Also the response on the normal Bb horn is much better for the lower 
notes than the Bb alto horn's lower response.


If you want to limit your approach to just what is
technically possible, you can play the Neruda on a single F horn--- all
of the notes are there. :)

Please let us know when and if you try this. I am sure a lot of us
would like to be there. :)

Paul

-Original Message-
From: valkh...@aol.com
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 12:10 am
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda


I disagree with this statement completely. You can play notes well
below
the G above the treble clef. The sound may not be what you desire but
it is
completely possible due to the fact that the Fundamental is actually
the F
below  the treble clef. This means F down to B natural is doable. Of
course
there's a  break of an octave so the next series is F down to B natural
an
octave above -  meaning the entire treble clef is playable -
technically :)

Also, where do people get the notion that below a particular note you
must
use another horn completely? If you can get away with the same horn and
a
decent sound and still play it musically, who cares?

-William


In a message dated 4/25/2009 11:34:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
corno...@aol.com writes:

Hello  Robson,

No, the Bb alto horn is very limited below the top of the  staff- it is
generally used above written high G.
Almost everything  below that requires a regular Bb horn.

I have a Bb/Bb alto model 60,  made by Paxman  and have found very
little use for it besides the  Neruda and some other baroque concertos,
and a few other symphonic  compositions,  like the Haydn symphomy #51.

Paul  Navarro



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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

2009-04-25 Thread corno911
I went to Ifor James for coaching when I was working on the Neruda 
concerto.


He recorded it on a Paxman Bb/ Bb alto horn.

Paul Navarro

-Original Message-
From: John Dutton dutto...@gmail.com
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 4:50 pm
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

The Ifor James recording is very nice.  The liner notes state the
Neruda was recorded on a high Bb horn.  It could be played on any horn
that one could get the desired tone color from.  Using a shorter horn
doesn't make it easier to hit a note, it just shifts the partials
further apart.  The piece can be played on an f alto horn and it could
be played on a normal Bb single (5.5 feet long more or less).  Long
story short is that if you don't have the chops to play that high with
a good sound then a shorter horn isn't going to help.

Ifor James was a monster of a player and musician.  For many years he
played a single Bb horn of one type or another.  He stated that he
played the horn because he could not sing and that if he could sing he
would never have played the horn.  The Neruda was recorded 10 February
1987 and no doubt on 1/2 tape.

The Jack Attack!
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

2009-04-25 Thread corno911

Hello Robson,

No, the Bb alto horn is very limited below the top of the staff- it is 
generally used above written high G.

Almost everything below that requires a regular Bb horn.

I have a Bb/Bb alto model 60, made by Paxman  and have found very 
little use for it besides the Neruda and some other baroque concertos, 
and a few other symphonic compositions,  like the Haydn symphomy #51.


Paul Navarro

-Original Message-
From: Robson Adabo de Mello robson.ad...@gmail.com
To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 11:19 pm
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

Is there anybody here that has ever tried a Bb/bb horn? I know that 
Paxman

and Finke have a Bb/bb (both model 60).

Once I heard that the Eb high horns that Engelbert is producing are 
better
because the high Eb is not so different from the Bb like the high F, so 
it's
possible to have more uniform transition. Is it possible to use the 
Bb/bb as

a double horn or the difference between Bb and bb is to big to make it
possible?

Did he played everything on the high Bb side of the horn?
Robson

2009/4/25 David A. Jewell paxm...@yahoo.com


that's my understanding of the Paxman instrument.  As an aside, Barry
Tuckwell recorded the Zelenka Capriccios on the same model instrument.
Paxmaha





From: Steve Freides steve.frei...@gmail.com
To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 9:10:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

Paul, does that mean it had a low Bb side that's the same as the Bb
side of a standard double, and then another Bb side that's one octave
higher, which is what people here have, I think, been calling Bb
soprano?

Thanks.

-S-

On Sat, Apr 25, 2009 at 8:26 PM,  corno...@aol.com wrote:
 I went to Ifor James for coaching when I was working on the Neruda
concerto.

 He recorded it on a Paxman Bb/ Bb alto horn.

 Paul Navarro

 -Original Message-
 From: John Dutton dutto...@gmail.com
 To: horn@music.memphis.edu
 Sent: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 4:50 pm
 Subject: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

 The Ifor James recording is very nice.  The liner notes state the
 Neruda was recorded on a high Bb horn.  It could be played on any 

horn
 that one could get the desired tone color from.  Using a shorter 

horn

 doesn't make it easier to hit a note, it just shifts the partials
 further apart.  The piece can be played on an f alto horn and it 

could

 be played on a normal Bb single (5.5 feet long more or less).  Long
 story short is that if you don't have the chops to play that high 

with

 a good sound then a shorter horn isn't going to help.

 Ifor James was a monster of a player and musician.  For many years 

he

 played a single Bb horn of one type or another.  He stated that he
 played the horn because he could not sing and that if he could sing 

he
 would never have played the horn.  The Neruda was recorded 10 

February

 1987 and no doubt on 1/2 tape.

 The Jack Attack!
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Fwd: Re: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

2009-04-25 Thread corno911



Hi Steve,

You are correct.
It is a standard B/b A -- a four valve  normal Bb horn, combined with a
Bb alto or sometimes called a Bb soprano ( the same length as a Bb
trumpet).
Paxman also makes triples in F/Bb/ Bb alto.

When I went to Ifor, I took a Bb/F alto horn, and when I took it out,
he smiled and said I think you will find that a Bb/ Bb is a much
better horn for this piece.

Paul


-Original Message-
From: Steve Freides steve.frei...@gmail.com
To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 9:10 pm
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

Paul, does that mean it had a low Bb side that's the same as the Bb
side of a standard double, and then another Bb side that's one octave
higher, which is what people here have, I think, been calling Bb
soprano?

Thanks.

-S-

On Sat, Apr 25, 2009 at 8:26 PM,  corno...@aol.com wrote:
 I went to Ifor James for coaching when I was working on the Neruda
concerto.

 He recorded it on a Paxman Bb/ Bb alto horn.

 Paul Navarro

 -Original Message-
 From: John Dutton dutto...@gmail.com
 To: horn@music.memphis.edu
 Sent: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 4:50 pm
 Subject: [Hornlist] Re: Ifor James playing Neruda

 The Ifor James recording is very nice.  The liner notes state the
 Neruda was recorded on a high Bb horn.  It could be played on any
hor
n
 that one could get the desired tone color from.  Using a shorter horn
 doesn't make it easier to hit a note, it just shifts the partials
 further apart.  The piece can be played on an f alto horn and it could
 be played on a normal Bb single (5.5 feet long more or less).  Long
 story short is that if you don't have the chops to play that high with
 a good sound then a shorter horn isn't going to help.

 Ifor James was a monster of a player and musician.  For many years he
 played a single Bb horn of one type or another.  He stated that he
 played the horn because he could not sing and that if he could sing he
 would never have played the horn.  The Neruda was recorded 10 February
 1987 and no doubt on 1/2 tape.

 The Jack Attack!
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Stopping valve

2009-04-16 Thread corno911

Hi David,

The answer to your question is sometimes.

Both Paxman and Alexander offer  (as an extra accessory), a slide with 
a manual change valve.
With the valve in the closed position, the slide acts as an A slide. 
With the valve in the open position, an additional slide length is 
added to the A slide for stopping.


Some other makers also have this option available.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn

-Original Message-
From: David A. Jewell paxm...@yahoo.com
To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 8:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Re:  Stopping valve

Most good stopping valve slides are in two pieces, so that the player 
can choose between stopping and A horn.


Dan



Is that where they have a manual rotary valve to add or subract the 
extra length?

Paxmaha







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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Stopping valve

2009-04-16 Thread corno911

Robson,

That is exactly it.

Paul

-Original Message-
From: Robson Adabo de Mello robson.ad...@gmail.com
To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 10:34 pm
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Re: Stopping valve

It must be something like that:

http://hornplayer.net/images/forsale/8721.jpg

Robson



Hi David,

The answer to your question is sometimes.

Both Paxman and Alexander offer  (as an extra accessory), a slide with a
manual change valve.
With the valve in the closed position, the slide acts as an A slide. 
With
the valve in the open position, an additional slide length is added to 
the A

slide for stopping.

Some other makers also have this option available.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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[Hornlist] test

2008-05-04 Thread corno911
Testing connection to see if list is active.

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Re: [Hornlist] Janine at Michigan State has split with Gordon Sly

2008-04-27 Thread corno911

Ellen,

Your post here is one of the most distasteful messages I have ever seen 
on the horn list.


This is personal information that is no place on this list.

Posting this kind of material does not speak well for your own personal 
integrity.


Paul Navarro

Adj. Professor of horn
Indiana University
Jacobs School of Music
Bloomington, Indiana



-Original Message-
From: Ellen Manthe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 9:02 pm
Subject: [Hornlist] Janine at Michigan State has split with Gordon Sly

I guess you probably don't know, or care, but Janine Gaboury-Sly (now 
just
Gaboury) and Gordon Sly have split.  There must be a problem with 
Michigan
State horn professors and remaining in a marriage - first Doug/LauraLee 
and
now Janine and Gord, as she calls him.  He is a nice guy - I feel for 
their
kids.  He did most of the care while she ran around on him a lot.  Once 
when
we subbed with either the DSO or Windsor, I forget- she was supposed to 
stay
at my house but I do not know where she went.  I am glad I did not have 
to
cover for her.  There is always something juicy going on in the Music 
Bldg
and the MPB.  I guess their offices are still in 410 and 411 in the 
Music

Practice Bldg, so that must be a lot of fun.  His parents gave them the
money to pay off their Eastman loans and buy their house, so wonder how 
that

is going to work.  I think that maybe East Lansing is just such a Peyton
Place type of setting that news like this gets sent around the country.
Janine did not and does not still get along with her students, except 
for
some of the undergrad me.  Any way, the School of Music becomes a 
College

and still it didn't get as much press among the horn grads as this - at
least the ones who had her.  Just to keep you up of MSU.
Ellen



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RE: [Hornlist] Who's the player?

2008-03-05 Thread corno911

No, the player in question is not Myron Bloom.

While Myron is in his early 80's, I have to agree with Orlando, he 
certainly does not look his age.


Also, not only did he do a great job on the Mahler 4th last summer, 
just a few months before that, he did a beautiful performance of the 
Brahms Trio on a chamber music series.


I feel very honored to have been asked by Myron to teach his studio 
last fall and some of this semester while he is on sabbatical-- 
-traveling and doing other things.


One of the qualities that amazes me about Myron is his (still  !!) 
incredible and genuine passion for music and performing.


And yes, Hans, there is more to life than just horn, but sometimes 
there are individuals who are creative enough to do many different 
things--at any age.


One of the things I tell my students is  the people who say it can't 
be done  should never interrupt the people doing it.



Paul Navarro

Adj. Professor of Horn
Jacobs School of Music
Indiana University.

Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret.)
Owner, Custom Horn




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[Hornlist] SCHMIDT, CONN, KRUSPE, AND MORE

2008-02-01 Thread corno911
Here are some observations I would like to share in regards to some of 
the recent postings  on the horn list.


First of all, as to the Schmidt  mouthpipe being called a a narrow 
taper mouthpipe, I think that this  is somewhat misleading terminology.
The generally accepted description by most makers of what is meant by  
this, is a slow tapered mouthpipe.  This means that  the taper flares 
out slower than a fast tapered pipe, which flares out sooner.
In practical terms,  this means  that,  given two pipes that are 18 
inches long, starting with the small end measuring exactly the same , 
if you measure both pipes at 3, then 6, then 9,  the faster tapered 
pipe will have  wider inside  measurements at these places than the 
slower tapered pipe.


The  mouthpipes used by Schmidt  (yes, they had more than one taper), 
were almost always slow tapered pipes.


As far as the Schmidt mouthpipe being copied by Geyer and Kruspe , I do 
not agree with this.

Geyer had two basic tapers of mouthpipe.
One which he used for his Schmidt models and for replacement pipes for 
Schmidt's, and another for his own Geyer  models.
I actually have his templates for these mouthpipes as Carl gave them to 
me when he retired.

The template for the Geyer  is larger than the one for the Schmidt.
Carl also used a different taper for single F horns than he did for 
doubles. He also modified the tapers in his mouthpipes depending on who 
he was making the horn for,  and according to what he thought were  
their individual needs.


Kruspe also used more than one mouthpipe taper depending on the model, 
and for most of the double horns, the  taper was a fast taper for the 
first (aprx.) 9 inches of the mouthpipe.
This was not the case for the pipe designed by Conn for the 8D , 
although Conn went through quite a lengthy period of experimentation 
before settling on one design.
And some players thought that the early mouthpipes were superior in 
playing characteristics.


As to the discussion of the alloy  for German silver, Kruspe had small 
amounts of tin and lead in their alloy, but it was not quite the same 
as nickel bronze.
Walter Lawson told me that he choose nickel bronze because it was the 
closest alloy to the Kruspe alloy that he could find.
One only has to look at the difference in color between the two  to see 
this.


As to Conn 8D bells as compared to most Kruspe bells, the German silver 
alloy Kruspe used was harder  than the alloy Conn used,  but Conn also 
had a tendency to over anneal the 8D bells to facilitate production. 
This made the metal softer.
This certainly made a difference in the sound of the horns, but one 
also has to consider  the allocation of the metal thickness between the 
two makers bells.


Conn bells were thinner in the throat area and then  gradually were 
thicker near the rim of the bell whereas with the Kruspe bells, the 
allocation was  reversed.
The Kruspe  throats were thicker and the metal was thinner out towards 
the end of the rim.

This makes a large difference in tone and response.

It is easy and tempting to generalize that what made the difference 
between the horns was the metal composition.
That did play a big part in the difference,  but one also has to 
consider many other factors.
For example, if a horn weighs about 3/4 of a pound more that another 
horn, the extra weight will  also play a large part in the difference 
in tone and response.
Kruspe used to thin the parts for their horns  to make the horns 
lighter.
 Geyer sometimes used this technique depending on the weight of the 
parts he had available  to use.
If you look at many Kruspes with a strong magnifying glass , you can 
sometimes still see the leftover file marks where the parts were filed 
thinner- if they haven't been worn or buffed off.

This also played a part in the sound quality.

As to the special Kruspe sound mentioned, the faster taper in the 
mouthpipe was believed by many to be  a factor in this sound quality.
Geyer thought  that this faster initial taper was in part responsible 
for the what he called gravy in the  Kruspe's sound quality.
Many players have changed the mouthpipes on their  Kruspe horns  in 
order to help correct some of the intonation problems in the upper 
register only to find that while the intonation was somewhat better,  
the sound quality was diminished from the sound with the original 
mouthpipe.


Another factor concerning intonation problems with both the large bell 
Kruspes and the large bell Conns is the necessary  critical placement 
of the hand position with a large throated bell.
A  large throat in a bell  lowers the upper harmonics and players using 
horns with  these bells have to make sure that their hand position does 
not further complicate this by lowering the upper harmonics even more. 
A great discussion of this is in Richard Merewether's book, THE HORN.


Another factor that plays a part in Kruspe's upper register note 
placement is that the bells on most Kruspes do 

Re: [Hornlist] Kruspe, Conn, Schmidt and more

2008-02-01 Thread corno911
Here are some observations I would like to share in regards to some of 
the recent postings on the horn list.


First of all, as to the Schmidt mouthpipe being called a a narrow 
taper mouthpipe, I think that this is somewhat misleading terminology.
The generally accepted description by most makers of what is meant by 
this, is a slow tapered mouthpipe. This means that the taper flares 
out slower than a fast tapered pipe, which flares out sooner.
In practical terms, this means that, given two pipes that are 18 inches 
long, starting with the small end measuring exactly the same , if you 
measure both pipes at 3, then 6, then 9, the faster tapered pipe 
will have wider inside measurements at these places than the slower 
tapered pipe.


The mouthpipes used by Schmidt (yes, they had more than one taper), 
were almost always slow tapered pipes.


As far as the Schmidt mouthpipe being copied by Geyer and Kruspe , I do 
not agree with this.

Geyer had two basic tapers of mouthpipe.
One which he used for his Schmidt models and for replacement pipes for 
Schmidt's, and another for his own Geyer models.
I actually have his templates for these mouthpipes as Carl gave them to 
me when he retired.

The template for the Geyer is larger than the one for the Schmidt.
Carl also used a different taper for single F horns than he did for 
doubles. He also modified the tapers in his mouthpipes depending on who 
he was making the horn for, and according to what he thought were their 
individual needs.


Kruspe also used more than one mouthpipe taper depending on the model, 
and for most of the double horns, the taper was a fast taper for the 
first (aprx.) 9 inches of the mouthpipe.
This was not the case for the pipe designed by Conn for the 8D , 
although Conn went through quite a lengthy period of experimentation 
before settling on one design.
And some players thought that the early mouthpipes were superior in 
playing characteristics.


As to the discussion of the alloy for German silver, Kruspe had small 
amounts of tin and lead in their alloy, but it was not quite the same 
as nickel bronze.
Walter Lawson told me that he choose nickel bronze because it was the 
closest alloy to the Kruspe alloy that he could find.
One only has to look at the difference in color between the two to see 
this.


As to Conn 8D bells as compared to most Kruspe bells, the German silver 
alloy Kruspe used was harder than the alloy Conn used, but Conn also 
had a tendency to over anneal the 8D bells to facilitate production. 
This made the metal softer.
This certainly made a difference in the sound of the horns, but one 
also has to consider the allocation of the metal thickness between the 
two makers bells.


Conn bells were thinner in the throat area and then gradually were 
thicker near the rim of the bell whereas with the Kruspe bells, the 
allocation was reversed.
The Kruspe throats were thicker and the metal was thinner out towards 
the end of the rim.

This makes a large difference in tone and response.

It is easy and tempting to generalize that what made the difference 
between the horns was the metal composition.
That did play a big part in the difference, but one also has to 
consider many other factors.
For example, if a horn weighs about 3/4 of a pound more that another 
horn, the extra weight will also play a large part in the difference in 
tone and response.
Kruspe used to thin the parts for their horns to make the horns 
lighter.
 Geyer sometimes used this technique depending on the weight of the 
parts he had available to use.
If you look at many Kruspes with a strong magnifying glass , you can 
sometimes still see the leftover file marks where the parts were filed 
thinner- if they haven't been worn or buffed off.

This also played a part in the sound quality.

As to the special Kruspe sound mentioned, the faster taper in the 
mouthpipe was believed by many to be a factor in this sound quality.
Geyer thought that this faster initial taper was in part responsible 
for the what he called gravy in the Kruspe's sound quality.
Many players have changed the mouthpipes on their Kruspe horns in order 
to help correct some of the intonation problems in the upper register 
only to find that while the intonation was somewhat better, the sound 
quality was diminished from the sound with the original mouthpipe.


Another factor concerning intonation problems with both the large bell 
Kruspes and the large bell Conns is the necessary critical placement of 
the hand position with a large throated bell.
A large throat in a bell lowers the upper harmonics and players using 
horns with these bells have to make sure that their hand position does 
not further complicate this by lowering the upper harmonics even more. 
A great discussion of this is in Richard Merewether's book, THE HORN.


Another factor that plays a part in Kruspe's upper register note 
placement is that the bells on most Kruspes do not have a gradual taper 
to the end of the 

[Hornlist] Looking for Robert Cherry

2007-10-21 Thread CORNO911
Hello,

I am looking for contact information for Robert Cherry, U.S.Army Field Band.
If anyone has his email address or phone number, I would really appreciate it 
if you would e-mail it to me privately at

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

I need to contact him regarding an I .U. matter.
Thank you,

Paul Navarro

Adj. Professor of Horn
Jacobs School of Music,
Indiana University
Bloomington ,Indiana


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Re: [Hornlist] Flight case

2007-08-08 Thread CORNO911
In the past I have had several problems   getting my horn on the smaller 
planes.
However, since I purchased a Bonna case that has a removable bell section, I 
have had no problems
at all.

Recently flying between Stockholm and Oslo, I encountered the most adamant 
flight attendant who insisted that the horn was just NOT going on the plane.
I unzipped the bell section from the body of the case and showed her that the 
body could go in the overhead compartment, and the bell section under the 
seat.
She didn't know what to say except I guess that will work.

This is the only case I now use or will use for flying.

For those not familiar with this case, it has two sections:
one for the body of the horn and another for the bell.
The two zip together to form a normal shaped Bonna case.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret).


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[Hornlist] WALTER LAWSON

2007-06-27 Thread CORNO911
To all members of the hornlist:

Today was the funeral   service for our esteemed colleague, Walter Lawson.

Yesterday I contacted Heidi Vogel (Executive Secretary of the IHS) and asked 
her to present to the IHS advisory board my request to form a Walter Lawson 
Memorial Scholarship.
Heidi agreed to present this proposal to the Advisory board at the IHS 
Convention in Switzerland in July.

Once Heidi informs me that the Board has approved this proposal (and I cannot 
foresee any reason   why they would not do so), I will post on this list that 
it has been accepted, and where anyone who wishes to contribute to this 
scholarship fund should send their contribution.

While this is just a small gesture of our appreciation, it is the very least 
we can do in memory of our 
colleague and friend who contributed so much to so many of us.

Paul Navarro
IHS State Representative
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret).


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Re: [Hornlist] P for high range

2007-06-27 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/27/07 9:41:58 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 The foundations, or I might say the basis, is the
 quality of sound and the quality articulation in the lower and
 central range. Working properly on that, everything else comes as a
 consequence by steady study.
 
 That is my experience at least, agreeing with my teacher's approach
 (he would say: you can't build a house starting from the roof).
 

The posts on this thread are so full of interpretive pitfalls language wise, 
that I   am reminded of how important it is to actually listen to a student's 
playing in person before giving out prescriptions for a cure.
I am always suspect of excess verbosity on the part of teachers and 
conductors.

I   strongly agree with Daniel's teacher 's approach about the necessity of 
starting with building   a good foundation in your performing skills. This was 
a basic tenet of Arnold Jacobs teaching.

I would   like to note that one of my colleagues from Lyric Opera, Bruce 
Nelson (who also studied with Jake), has put together a compilation of all of 
Jacob's teaching material that he could find.
It is published by Windsong Press under the title Thus Spake Arnold Jacobs.

I mention this because quite a few of the ideas that are attributed to Jacobs 
here on this list are not quite on target with what he believed and taught.
Sometimes players have a few lessons with a teacher and think that they have 
an understanding of   what the teacher's basic ideas are.
This was very dangerous with Jacobs because he often taught progressively. 
That is, he adapted his 
approach to what you needed first, and then over time, changed that 
adaptation to fit your progress.

This was always with the final goals of efficient simplicity and performing 
musically in mind.
He believed in Herseth's old adage-too much analysis leads to paralysis.

If you would like great information on how to develop and use your air, and 
also how to take technical challenges and turn them into musical 
challenges-whereby they can be solved more effectively (something rarely 
mentioned or 
attributed to Jake on this list), 
this material may be very helpful.

For more information check out their website: 
www.windsongpress.com

Maybe the   P inP for high range should stand for PRACTICE.

Paul Navarro
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret.)
Longtime student of Arnold Jacobs


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Re: [Hornlist] RIP Walter Lawson

2007-06-14 Thread CORNO911
I am greatly saddened to hear of Walter's death.

He has been a very close friend to me for the last 37 years and I have met 
few people in my lifetime who were as generous and helpful as Walter. His 
devotion to his family was an example for all of us.
His spirit of embracing learning and sharing his knowledge with others made 
him truly unique in today's world.
Yes, yesterday the horn world lost one of its greatest geniuses, but most 
importantly, the world lost a truly beautiful man.

Paul Navarro


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Re: [Hornlist] musical idiot disgusti ng  arranger.

2007-05-06 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 5/6/07 7:41:31 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 You would not believe how good it sounds!
 
 

You should have heard the Memphis Jug Band's first all Brahms concert !!


P .N.


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Re: [Hornlist] Yes, I'm stumped.

2007-05-01 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 5/1/07 2:18:50 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 It depends. Which one has a bigger first branch: the 8D,
 the Geyer, or the tree?
 
 Gotta go,
 Cabbage
 
Das ist gut !!
Leaf it to you !!!

P.N.


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Re: [Hornlist] RE: The preferred tone/sound these days?

2007-04-29 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 4/29/07 8:59:16 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 It dependsAnsel Adams comes to mind.
 
 

Might be a good time to take another look at Ansel Adams work -- black, 
white, and innumerable shades of gray.

Paul N.


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Re: [Hornlist] RE: The preferred tone/sound these days?

2007-04-28 Thread CORNO911
This entire discussion is getting pretty boring.

The goal of any artist musician is to convey emotional images in sound.
To convey a message to the listener.

To effectively accomplish this one has to know much about the musical 
intentions of the composer and then do their best to bring these intentions to 
life 
in an effective way.

This requires that the performer use all aspects of the sound--dynamics, 
weight, intensity and color
in a flexible and imaginative way.
In other words, the performer needs to be flexible enough to be able to 
change their sound to create an effective rendering of what is being performed.

And so must the instrument be sonically flexible enough to aid the performer 
in accomplishing this.

Would you enjoy looking at an artists paintings who only used one color of 
paint?

Artist performers choose instruments that help enable them to be flexible and 
fulfill these goals, not just because the instrument has a certain built in 
sound. 

The concept that artists choose a horn because it has a certain sound, and 
that the brand is more important than the creativity and imagination of the 
performer, is patently sophomoric and totally misses the point of musical 
interpretation and performance.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret.)


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Re: [Hornlist] Lubricating Valves

2007-04-23 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 4/23/07 10:03:12 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I wouldn't use lanolin on the slides.  Mixing animal fat with  petroleum is
 not a good idea.  You'll end up with a white slimy  mess which eventually 
 will
 gum up your valves. 
 

I have been using lanolin on my slides for all of my horns for 35 years and 
have never had the problem you describe.
Paul Navarro
 Custom horn


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Re: [Hornlist] Happy Holidays

2006-12-25 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 12/24/06 8:38:09 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Duoh, Wendell, it's gonna be 2007 but thanks for the good wishes  anyway!
 
 

Kendall,

Please show some respect for California time:)

also, Have a Merry christmas
Paul Navarro
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[Hornlist] Bonna Flight Case available

2006-12-16 Thread CORNO911
Hello All,

This is just a notice that a colleague of mine has a   black like new Bonna   
Flight case for sale. 
( model GB-MB5 ) 

She asked me if i would post it for her here on the list.

If you would like to reach her about it, her email is:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Meinl Flare: Good, Bad or Ugly?

2006-12-08 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 12/7/06 4:40:08 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I used a Meinl flare on my Alex 107 and it made a great difference in
 the sound as compared to the stock Alex flare.
 
 

One of the problems here is which Meinl !!

There are several who manufacture instruments.

Gerhard   Meinl manufactures   the Hoyer horns

Ewald Meinl manufactures bells for many of the finest makers, including 
Alexander.

Ewald is Gerhard's uncle.

Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Meinl Flare: Good, Bad or Ugly?

2006-12-08 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 12/7/06 11:52:08 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I think Paul Navarro was working with Meinl 5 to 7 years ago to develop an 
 8d replacement flare.  Perhaps this is one of those.  Paul contributes to 
 this list from time to time, so perhaps he will give better and more specific 
 information.
 
 

Yes, I did work with Ewald Meinl and do import his bells, including the one 
we came up with for the Elkhart 8D replacement flare.

Many professionals use these flares on their 8D's. I have installed them on 
approx. 60 Elkhart 8D's for clients.
Unfortunately, they are untimely to get at this time-due to personnel 
problems that Ewald is experiencing at his shop.
The order time is taking approx. one year.
Hopefully this will change in the near future.

The player who wrote saying he used a Meinl flare with his Alex 107 could not 
likely have been using one of the ones I import because there is a large size 
difference between the flare for an 8D and one   for an Alex 107.
The ledge between the two flares would certainly create acoustical problems 
for a sensitive performer.

One must be mindful   that trying different flares on a horn is not as simple 
as just making sure that the rings are compatible. There are several 
important parameters that need to be met to make sure that, while a certain 
flare may 
seem to improve a horn, the flare should also   be either compatible with the 
overall harmonic series of the instrument or a total improvement of the 
series, and not just influencing one particular aspect positively while 
degrading a
nother aspect at the same time.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Meinl Flare: Good, Bad or Ugly?

2006-12-07 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 12/7/06 4:40:08 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 used a Meinl flare on my Alex 107 and it made a great difference in
 the sound as compared to the stock Alex flare.
 
 

Meinl makes the stock Alex bells.
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Unwarranted attack onf Prof. Pizka

2006-09-10 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 9/9/06 10:18:55 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 There is a saying we have here in the good old US of A...Don't dish it out 
 if
 you
 can't take it back! 
 

We have another saying here in the good old US of A---one worth 
considering here during these particular exchanges---

Sometimes it is better to   remain quiet and be thought of as a fool, than 
to speak up and remove all doubt.

Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Sticky Valves?

2006-06-30 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/30/06 1:20:59 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Place the horn  on one's lap or in a vise with the slides pointing
 straight up.  A repair person on this list will have the
 best way to do this .
 
Rachael,
Are you serious???
Never, I repeat, never, put your horn in a vise.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Sticky Valves?

2006-06-30 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/30/06 10:04:07 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 When I need a horn held steady for something I'm about to do to it, I place
 in the vise a wood block out of which extend two parallel wood dowels,
 spaced to fit into two sides of a valve slide or tuning slide.  That holds
 the horn safely and securely, while I clean it, solder a brace, or whatever
 needs done.
 

Jerry,

This is a somewhat similar procedure used by some repair techs.
Not everyone knows about this   and even if they did, it is still possible 
for someone who is not familiar with this tool / technique to badly damage 
their 
horn.

this is quite different than putting your horn in a vise.

Sometimes it is necessary to be specific.
Remember, Chris, who posted the question said he had only been playing horn 
for about a week.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Recovering after Break

2006-06-04 Thread CORNO911
Hi Dave,
You probably have had some swelling in your mouth and throat due to these 
problems.
Allow your body to return to normal.
 Most importantly -- do not psych your self out over this.
If you are practicing intelligently, paying attention to what is happening in 
the present-without worrying about the future, then your recovery will happen 
in a short time.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn 
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret).
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[Hornlist] Lawson Descant horn on Ebay

2006-06-01 Thread CORNO911
This is just a note to let players know that there is a Lawson descant for 
sale on E bay
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Re: [Hornlist] Whoshing valve sound

2006-05-25 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 5/25/06 7:55:33 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Actually, the sound happens even just with air going
 through the horn when I press the trigger, only on the
 thumb trigger. I can blow through the horn and not
 play a note, but there is this loud air noise at the
 change valve only when I press the trigger back and
 forth
 

Sometimes horns are made with the Bb valve rotor ports machined THROUGH the 
rotor instead of   out of the side of the rotor. This is especially true of 
some Geyer style valve layouts.
When the rotor is made in this fashion, there is a small section of metal 
that passes through the air flow when you depress the rotor.
The whooshing sound you describe is the kind of sound that this section of 
the rotor makes when it passes through the air flow.
You can tell if your Bb valve is made in this way by taking the rotor out and 
examining the ports in the rotor.
The condition can be rectified by very carefully recutting the side of the 
valve rotor and should be attempted only by top quality horn tech.s who are 
familiar with the process.
If it is done incorrectly, the integrity of the valve rotor may be 
compromised, and it will not retain its strength and then may have to be 
replaced.

Paul Navarro
Custom horn
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret).
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Re: FW: [Hornlist] Quick question about cleaning.....

2006-04-27 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 4/27/06 1:53:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 The wax idea would
 serve a similar function as the graphite and indeed one could use a chunk of
 bakers paraffin too (found in the baking aisle of your grocer)
 

Wax from a candle will also work just as well. A very small amount is all you 
need.
I never recommend any petroleum based lubricants for bell rings to my 
clients.
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Is this a Vienna Horn?

2006-04-22 Thread CORNO911
Hi Steve,
This Stone's song, You can't always get what you want was recorded in 
London with the London Bach Choir. 
The horn player was Al Kooper, who also played piano and organ on the 
recording.
It probably was not a Vienna horn. 

Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] playing low/high

2006-04-04 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 4/4/06 7:34:53 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


   I'd also like to believe after 6 years of college, I'm not that stupid.
 
Hello Mara,
It is not a question of being stupid, it is a question of having enough 
awareness and the correct knowledge to be able to self diagnose and then solve 
your 
problem.
You asked for information and help and Hans provided you with a total 
overview of what is necessary to achieve professional results.

To quote Garrison Keillor of Prairie Home Companion,
If you didn't want to go to Minneapolis, you shouldn't have gotten on the 
train 

Paul Navarro
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret.)
32 years
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Re: [Hornlist] das rheingold intrp

2006-03-20 Thread CORNO911
Hi Ron,
It should be played exactly as written-plus, all eight players should phrase 
identically--
as smoothly as possible with a seamless phrase.
Just keep a very steady air column going   and sing !

Paul Navarro
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret.)
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Re: [Hornlist] French Horn sayings

2006-03-17 Thread CORNO911
Why is the horn God's favorite instrument ?

Because when any of the others instrumentalists   begin to play, the audience 
applauds but when horn players begin to play, the audience prays.

Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] cases

2006-03-06 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 3/6/06 5:13:55 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I recently got a Berp, and went to the website to check it out.  I didn't
 know Berp also sells cases.  Anyone familiar with the quality of these
 cases?  
 
Hello, It really is not necessary to buy a case for your new Berp.
You can keep it in your horn case :)
Paul Navarro
 
 

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Re: [Hornlist] Need Bb Single Horn Advice

2006-02-06 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 2/6/06 9:03:58 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 This is what I thought. However on this horn the 4th
 is indeed exactly the same length as the 1st. It can
 be used as an altenate 1st valve, and when used for
 stopping, the pitch is flat.
 
 Perhaps the only explanation is that it is an
 ill-conceived design.
 

I am not sure that the whole tone slide on your horn was purposely designed 
for this, but it does have an interesting possibility.

If you are   going to play only the open F notes on an F extension (if you 
had one),   you could   also play them with the 1st and 3 rd valve combination. 
The problem is that this combination is too sharp to be really useful.
I have made a slightly longer than a   whole step slide that I use in the 
A/muting   valve   of my Paxman descant. Using this slide, I can use the muting 
valve lever and 3rd valve combination   for the F horn extension and the longer 
slide lowers the pitch enough to give a correct F overtone series.
I have used this for many years and never had to make an F extension (which 
sometimes can add enough weight to the horn to make it respond differently).
I have also made slides like this for many other players for their descants.
You can carry the whole step slide in the horn and a muting slide in your 
case and have both readily available in case you need them.

My Point ?
Why don't you try pulling the whole tone slide in your muting valve out about 
an inch or so and then, using the thumb valve and 3rd valve combination, tune 
the whole tone slide until you have a good open F harmonic using this 
combination ?   
This could give you the same results   as a F extension and you wouldn't have 
to have one made. 
It is possible that this   is why the slide was originally designed that way.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn 
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret)
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Re: [Hornlist] Need Bb Single Horn Advice

2006-02-06 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 2/6/06 11:43:42 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 On Bb horns with an A/+ stop valve, there is a short section which extends
 the stopping slide from 3/4 tone to a full tone
 

The short removable section that is present on most Bb horns is an extension 
to lengthen the A   slide (or 1/2 tone slide) to a muting slide (or 3/4 tone 
slide) for hand stopping.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Need Bb Single Horn Advice

2006-02-06 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 2/6/06 3:31:26 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 've never seen 
 a 5V Bb with the Bb/Ab setup you describe
 

Isn't the   King Bb horn he was describing a 4 valve horn?

Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] slippery high Bb

2006-02-03 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 2/3/06 12:37:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Anyone out there have any success with fixing this specific sort of 
 problem?
 
 

If there are any ledges, then the slide must be dissasembled and reassembled 
without the ledges.
Also, the slide may have been assembled with a lot of tension in it. This 
could cause   difficulties in response.
 If it were my horn, I would also check to make sure that the crook at the 
end of the slide had the same internal bore as the slide tubing.
Is the slide loose? If so, it may need to be tightened.

These are some possibilities for helping to correct the problem.
Paul Navarro 
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Conn vs. Yamaha vs. Hoyer, etc.

2006-02-01 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 2/1/06 4:29:06 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I'm not sure when  it was
 made.  The other's I tried were early ones, I think.  As  to prices, here 
 are
 today's prices at The Brasswind and the Woodwind of South  Bend IN:
 
 Conn 8D - $3,079
 
 Yamaha 886II N - $2,957
 
 Holton 179,  188 - $2,979
 
 Hoyer 6802 - $3,145
 

This Hoyer 6802 price of $3,145 is for a B stock instrument and it is an 
older model.
They supposedly only had one at this price. It wa a close out price through 
their outlet center.
I know this information is correct as supplied to me by WWBW, as I purchased 
this horn on Monday to disassemble it and see what improvements could be made 
to it through customization.
The current price a WWBW for the new version of this model is around $3450.

One of the things that you should consider when purchasing any one of these 
above listed horns, is that you should not expect to buy just any one   of any 
of the above brands and have it be a good instrument.
All of these brands are spotty as to the individual horn. You should always 
try more than one because they all vary in quality-some slightly --some 
greatly. 
This is somewhat true of almost all maker's horns.
 
I am frequently asked by my clients for information as to what horns are 
decent in the current marketplace for their students, so I have tried about 12 
of 
each of these models in the past year.
ALL of these horns are priced for the low to medium market and to some extent 
this is reflected in the quality of the instruments. You can find some poor 
ones and occasionally a really nice one, but for the most part they are in 
general (in my opinion), average quality instruments.
The Hoyers and the Yamahas have a much higher percentage of good instruments, 
and Hoyer has the most aggressive developmental improvement campaign. The 
King- UMI horns seem to have the most problems.
If you want to take the time and effort, you could always look for a higher 
end used horn in this price range.
The prices for used horns on Hornplayer.net and the consignment markets are 
not necessarily the best available prices.
Sometimes it is better to contact the local pros in your area and inquire as 
to if they know of any good quality used instruments in this price range 
($3000-3500).
In the past year I have seen very good quality used instruments from
Paxman, Alexander, Schmidt, Conn (Elkhart 8D's), and Yamaha   (models 
861,863,862, and 867)
for sale within this price range.

When you buy a horn you should audition it in as many circumstances as you 
can-your ensemble(s),
at home, in a recital hall if possible, and always have a few good sessions 
with your tuner and the horn before you commit to buy it.
Frequently what feels and sounds good in the practice room is not what works 
well in an ensemble.
If at all possible, don't buy the first one you try unless you have totally 
fallen in love with it, it is very good, and you have really checked it out. If 
you have a knowledgeable repair person available, have them check it out. 
Even new horns can have problems.
If you don't find out if there are problems with the horn before you buy it, 
and you soon discover that there are problems, then you will probably have to 
pay to have the problems corrected, so then the total price of the horn goes 
up. 
As far as buying a horn by the brand, remember that more importantly than the 
brand or model, is that the horn fit you personally---musically and 
physically
.
Another thing to remember, even Rolls Royce made some lemons.

Paul Navarro
Custom horn
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret)
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Re: [Hornlist] FWD: lighter weight horns

2006-01-24 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/23/06 11:22:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 helps the performer achieve a level of
 flexibility with the instrument that allows them to change or adapt to any
 necessary criteria in a moments notice.
 

This is to clarify what allows them to change or adapt to any necessary 
criteria refers to   in this statement (as asked for in a private e-mail).
   
What I mean is, when the instrument allows the performer to change (for 
example) from a heavy to a light sound, from   a dark to a brighter sound. from 
a 
bright to a darker sound, from hard articulation to light articulation--etc., 
etc., 

or in other words,

when the instrument allows the performer be as musically flexible as they 
want and need to be without getting in the way.
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Chicago and New York styles

2006-01-24 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/24/06 1:03:55 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I think a better way to look at the idea of
 tone production would be to apply different colors'
 of sound depending on the individual piece
 

This is a healthy and correct approach to sound/tone.

It is important to think of yourself as an artist that needs and has many 
different colors of paint to work with.
Consider how limited your work would be if you had only one color to work 
with.

After you are able to assemble a full palate of colors, then you are able to 
work developing the different types of brush strokes (articulation), the 
different depths of the individual colors (weight of sound, articulation, 
dynamics, 
accents, etc.), and the overall idea of what you want to paint and how you 
want to paint it (interpretation).
Then you will have developed some artistic versatility and can really do 
justice to the music you are performing and make a valid contribution to your 
art.

Paul Navarro
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[Hornlist] FWD: lighter weight horns

2006-01-23 Thread CORNO911
This question about lighter weight or heavier weight horns is very complex.
How does weight affect a horn?
Does it make it louder, softer, brighter, darker, flexible, stiff, resonant, 
dead ???--the list could go on and on.
Since the issue of weight is so complicated and can affect so many components 
-- such as response, sound color, projection, flexibility, intonation, PLUS 
is basically so personal as to the musical goals of the player, their physical 
make up, their   technical strengths and weaknesses, the physical 
ccharacteristics of where they play-what group, what hall (or halls), the 
overall musical 
concept of the group(s) they perform with, the conductor's concept of tone and 
weight of sound desired for a particular piece, it is easy to understand   
that any generalizations that are made are likely to be true for some players, 
instruments, halls, compositions, conductors and not true for others.
 It seems that for our discussion here, the important characteristics of the 
physical weight of a particular instrument are correct for a particular player 
when the following criteria are met:

1. They feel comfortable physically with the horn

2. The instrument allows them the freedom to perform in a way that is 
stylistically musically
correct for the composition they are performing-in the circumstances that 
they are performing it.

3. And probably most importantly, assuming that the above two requirements 
are met, that the instrument in question helps the performer achieve a level of 
flexibility with the instrument that allows them to change or adapt to any 
necessary criteria in a moments notice.

To paraphrase how Abe Kniaz once aptly put it, we will be able to 
standardize, generalize, and codify all of this when all players have the same:
physical size
weight
embouchure
air capacity
oral cavity
teeth structure
tonal concepts 
musical goals
and are all playing on the same kind of horn and mouthpiece.

Until then, it is whatever helps you get the job well done (both musically 
and technically) as efficiently as possible, that works best for you.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret)
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Lighter weight horns

2006-01-23 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/23/06 11:27:48 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I've sat in sections that would make you go blind from how loud
 it was down there but you go out in the audience and ... nothing.
 
 

Steve, 
Isn't it sort of funny how players can get tricked into believing that loud 
really projects and then so easily reach the dimension of loud that is ugly and 
dead?
I once heard a player (who was   on an audition committee that I was   also 
on) tell a candidate who asked about how they played on the audition-- Your 
sound was always loud, and mostly too brassy and edgy- but I don't think that 
it 
is really a problem because it doesn't project.
Paul 
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Re: [Hornlist] Fwd: Lighter weight horns

2006-01-22 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/22/06 8:25:13 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 It's such an interesting problem in instrument construction, that of 
 reducing
 weight, that I think one should first ask the question, why do it?  So I ask
 the posting public, do you think a lighter weight horn has advantages, and 
 if
 so, what are they?  I have strong opinions on this question, but I would
 really like to see what everyone else thinks. 
 
Hello David,
This is a very complex issue that requires   a healthy amount of 
consideration concerning: 
musical goals 
technique goals
instrument construction.
It is also a subject that has a tendency to blur the lines between player 
empiricism and scientific data.
You state that you have strong opinions on this subject therefore I have a 
question for you before we start the discussion. Since I believe that you are 
basically a tuba player, are your opinions based on your experience with the 
horn or the tuba?
I believe that the difference between the two instruments addresses different 
issues and requirements.
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

2006-01-09 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/9/06 1:01:33 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 This uneven wear occurs at a much higher rate if the rotors are allowed
 to get loose, so having loose bearings tightened is probably the most
 cost effective repair you can have done.
 
 
Hi Bill,
This is so very true, The cost of having the valves cleaned and loose 
bearings tightened is about 1/5th of a decent valve replating
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn 
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Signs of leaky che ckbook? 

2006-01-09 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/9/06 9:03:27 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



 I do not think that Dave was advertising to the list when he posted his
 knowledge of rotors.  (Doesn't Osmun commonly post - 'see our website link
 below for more information').
 
 

Upon opening my e-mail this morning it appears now that my posts on valve 
rebuilding might have the seeds of a horn tech war. I hope not.
This was certainly not my intention.
I would like to thank those who have emailed me or called me privately with 
appreciation for the information.
To the person who emailed me privately accusing me of one of the most 
blatant posts on the horn list-only designed to solicit repair work for my 
shop, I 
can only state that this was definitely not my intent. The information was 
posted only for educational purposes in response to someone who wanted 
information about valve work. But I also thought if I was   going to be accused 
of it , 
maybe I should
do a little.

My shop is basically for professionals.
I currently   have horns that need work from:

Vincent De Rosa--L.A.
Myron Bloom--I.U.
Stuart Rose- Principal, New York City Opera
Michael Thornton--Principal, Colorado Symphony
Steven Ovitsky--Director, Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival
Leigh Ann Hooper-- U.S. Marine School of Music
And one client flying in from the Boston area this week.

While this might qualify as solicitation, I believe that this is enough to 
keep me busy for a while.
I do not generally feel the need to advertise (I do at horn conventions 
though), have no web site, and run my business as a part time business. 
I t has never been my primary source of income and I find the accusation 
somewhat offensive.
I do not know the person who sent it and therefore cannot address whatever 
issues are behind it
But now he has a basis for complaint.

I apologize to the other members of the list if any others interpreted my 
previous posts as a solicitation for work-or as a degradation of other repair 
techs work.
 They were, as I stated, sent only for informational purposes.

Often it is stated on the list that some players wish that more repair techs 
would respond to their questions.
I assume that responses like the one I was sent are one of the reasons they 
do not.

Paul Navarro
Custom horn
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret).
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Re: [Hornlist] repair technitians

2006-01-09 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/9/06 4:37:55 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Am I making too big an issue over valve timing or
 should the timing marks from the bearing to the cap
 line up exactly?
 
 

Hi Kathy,
I believe that the timing marks should match up exactly- unless there is a 
problem with them being incorrectly marked by the maker-which rarely happens.
In the   unlikely case that they are   mismarked however, this should be 
explained to you how they are off and why the tech lined them up that way they 
did- by the tech when you pick up the instrument. 
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Signs of leaky che ckbook? 

2006-01-08 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/8/06 6:20:16 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Several posters to this list have claimed that you can improve the air seal
 of a horn by removing the end play, causing the valve to seat lower in the
 casing. Because the valves are tapered, seating the rotor lower will cause
 the side wall to move closer to the casing. That's the theory.
 
 

Hi Bob,

Actually, this is not the theory.

Tightening the bearings does not move the valve lower in the casing.
What it does, if done properly, is brings the top bearing plate down closer 
to the valve rotor. This keeps the rotor from moving out towards the bearing 
plate when the valve is depressed.

When a valve is depressed the physics of the movement pushes the valve rotor 
up against the top bearing plate.

Over time wear takes place on these upper bearing surfaces.

Once this wear starts to accumulate, a very small space occurs between the 
rotor and the upper bearing when the valve is at rest. When the valve is 
depressed, the rotor moves forward towards and then contacts the upper bearing 
plate 
(this contact is sometimes heard as clicking).
 
Since the valve is tapered, and since it has now moved forward because of the 
wear, there is now more space between the sides of the valve rotor and the 
sides of the valve casing than there was when the valve was at rest.
This space is where the valve compression is lost.

 A very minute space can be felt and heard by a discerning performer as a 
fuzziness in the tone and degraded response.

The basic correction is not to move the valve rotor lower in the casing.
It is to keep the valve rotor from moving forward when it the valve lever is 
depressed.

I have saved many clients the necessity of having their valves replated using 
this method and it (again, if done correctly), works very well.

I might add that the wear that occurs in the rear bearing (that causes the Bb 
horn to leak before the F does-as several people have noticed), is basically 
also a result of the forward movement described above. 

I hope this helps to clear this up.
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret). 
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Signs of leaky che ckbook? 

2006-01-08 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/9/06 12:20:39 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I have saved many clients the necessity of having their valves replated 
 using
 this method and it (again, if done correctly), works very well.
 
 

I would like to add to this post that this process is not one of just 
shrinking the bearings.It involves shrinking the bearings and refitting the 
upper 
bearing plate.
It is not a new one. or one that I developed myself.
Carl geyer used it frequently, and I learned it from him while I was 
apprenticing with him in the late 60's and early 70's.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
Lyric Opera of Chicago(ret).
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Re: [Hornlist] Signs of leaky valves?

2006-01-07 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/6/06 5:22:51 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



 From the player's viewpoint, what are the signs and symptoms suggestive of 
 valves that are leaking? Are there some tests that can be done at home to 
 confirm one's suspicions prior to taking the horn to a repair 
 technician-artist?
 
 Thanks,
 Linda
 
 
Hello Linda,

From the players viewpoint valve leakage can cause the upper harmonics to go 
flat, difficulties with intonation, difficulties with clean articulation, and 
an indistinct feeling as to where the centers of the notes are. The sound also 
loses resonance and becomes unclear as the valves lose compression and begin 
to leak
The general feeling is that you are having to overwork to get good efficent 
results.
The danger is that asthe leakage develops over a perion of time and the 
player unconciously adjusts to it without being aware of why they are having to 
work harder.

One fast way to initially check for valve leakage is to (making sure that 
your slides are well greased before you do this) pull a slide out about 1 1/2 
inches and the push it back in.
Immediately push down the appropriate valve lever.
You should hear a distinct pop when you depress the valve.
This type of test is basically a superficial test and is not totally reliable 
as a diagnostic tool, but will give you a first impression as to whether your 
valves are leaking.

Now you can begin with more serious testing.
The first thing to check when testing to see whether your valves leak, is to 
check for end play in the valve bearings.
End play is movement that  can occur both vertically and / or  horizontally.
Hold your valve by the rear bumper shaft and move it vertically back and 
forth to see if there is any play in the valve.  End play will show up as 
movement- however slight.
Check each valve individually and then repeat the process checking for 
horizontal movement. Again, check all of the valves.
If there is movement either way, this could indicate that the bearings are 
worn. Or that the bearing top plates are not seated correctly. Check the top 
bearing plates and if they are not seated flush with the valve casing, 
carefully 
tap them down so they are flush with the casings, then check for movement once 
the plates are correctly seated.
Bearing play will cause valve leakage, but does not necessarily mean that the 
valves need to be replated.
It can just mean that the bearings are worn and need to be tightened. Or that 
there is corrosion in the valves.
The next step in checking your valves is to buy some heavy woodwind key oil. 
I have found that Buffet key oil is best. Some manufactures package valve oil 
as key oil and this is too thin for our next procedure.
Once you have warmed up, find a quiet place and play some passages on your 
horn that are tricky.
Examples of good passages to play are:
For high register:
Ravel Piano Concerto solo
Bruckner 4th opening
Mozart G minor symphony
Beethoven 7th Symphony
Beethoven 6th solos

These passages are more difficult to play if you have valve leakage because 
the leakage causes the overtones to be flat and the player experiences this as 
the notes being harder to play and more uncertain as to obtaining a nice free, 
resonant entrance. This generally tends to make the player use too much 
effort in production.

Then try a few low register passages such as:

Beethoven Fidelio 2nd horn  both the horn 5ths and the solo
Mussorgsky pictures - the first solo for 1st horn
Wagner- 8th horn opening to Rheingold

These passages are more difficult to play if you have valve leakage because 
the pitch centers are indistinct, articulation is difficult, and intonation is 
poor. Once again, this can lead the player to over control  in their attempt 
to perform the passages correctly.


When you are playing these passages pay close attention to the amount of work 
it takes to play them. Pay careful attention to the intonation and whether or 
not the notes feel centered and that the tone is resonant.

Immediately after you have done this, put some of the woodwind key oil 
directly into the valves (4or 5 drops into each slide tube though the outer 
slide 
tubes). Make sure that you put it into all of the valves.
The purpose of this it to use the heavy oil to artificially tighten up the 
valves to remove any leakage.
This heavy oil will most likely make your valves slower-hopefully anyway.
If your valves do not slow down with the heavy oil in them, then there is a 
good likelihood that there is valve wear.

Now replay all of the passages in the same order and as similar to how you 
played them the first time and see if you notice a difference in how your horn 
responds.
Is the sound clearer and more resonant?
Do the notes feel more centered?
Is the intonation better?
Is the articulation easier?
Is it less work to play these passages?
Is it easier to play soft?

When you have finished with this experiment you will have to remove the heavy 
oil. Use some regular valve oil. I  

Re: [Hornlist] Signs of leaky valves?

2006-01-07 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/6/06 5:22:51 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



 From the player's viewpoint, what are the signs and symptoms suggestive of
 valves that are leaking? Are there some tests that can be done at home to
 confirm one's suspicions prior to taking the horn to a repair
 technician-artist?

 Thanks,
 Linda


My last post had a mistake in the typing. here it is corrected. sorry for 
that.

Hello Linda,

From the players viewpoint valve leakage can cause the upper harmonics to go
flat, difficulties with intonation, difficulties with clean articulation, and
an indistinct feeling as to where the centers of the notes are. The sound 
also
loses resonance and becomes unclear as the valves lose compression and begin
to leak
The general feeling is that you are having to overwork to get good efficent
results.
The danger is that as the leakage develops over a perion of time,   the
player unconciously adjusts to it without being aware of why they are having 
to
work harder, and bad habits can develop.
It is always important to take good care of your valves to avoid unnecessary 
wear.

One fast way to initially check for valve leakage is to (making sure that
your slides are well greased before you do this) pull a slide out about 1 1/2
inches and the push it back in.
Immediately push down the appropriate valve lever.
You should hear a distinct pop when you depress the valve.
This type of test is basically a superficial test and is not totally reliable
as a diagnostic tool, but will give you a first impression as to whether your
valves are leaking.

Now you can begin with more serious testing.
The first thing to check when testing to see whether your valves leak, is to
check for end play in the valve bearings.
End play is movement that  can occur both vertically and / or  horizontally.
Hold your valve by the rear bumper shaft and move it vertically back and
forth to see if there is any play in the valve.  End play will show up as
movement- however slight.
Check each valve individually and then repeat the process checking for
horizontal movement. Again, check all of the valves.
If there is movement either way, this could indicate that the bearings are
worn. Or that the bearing top plates are not seated correctly. Check the top
bearing plates and if they are not seated flush with the valve casing, 
carefully
tap them down so they are flush with the casings, then check for movement 
once
the plates are correctly seated.
Bearing play will cause valve leakage, but does not necessarily mean that the
valves need to be replated.
It can just mean that the bearings are worn and need to be tightened. Or that
there is corrosion in the valves.
The next step in checking your valves is to buy some heavy woodwind key oil.
I have found that Buffet key oil is best. Some manufactures package valve oil
as key oil and this is too thin for our next procedure.
Once you have warmed up, find a quiet place and play some passages on your
horn that are tricky.
Examples of good passages to play are:
For high register:
Ravel Piano Concerto solo
Bruckner 4th opening
Mozart G minor symphony
Beethoven 7th Symphony
Beethoven 6th solos

These passages are more difficult to play if you have valve leakage because
the leakage causes the overtones to be flat and the player experiences this 
as
the notes being harder to play and more uncertain as to obtaining a nice 
free,
resonant entrance. This generally tends to make the player use too much
effort in production.

Then try a few low register passages such as:

Beethoven Fidelio 2nd horn  both the horn 5ths and the solo
Mussorgsky pictures - the first solo for 1st horn
Wagner- 8th horn opening to Rheingold

These passages are more difficult to play if you have valve leakage because
the pitch centers are indistinct, articulation is difficult, and intonation 
is
poor. Once again, this can lead the player to over control  in their attempt
to perform the passages correctly.


When you are playing these passages pay close attention to the amount of work
it takes to play them. Pay careful attention to the intonation and whether or
not the notes feel centered and that the tone is resonant.

Immediately after you have done this, put some of the woodwind key oil
directly into the valves (4or 5 drops into each slide tube though the outer 
slide
tubes). Make sure that you put it into all of the valves.
The purpose of this it to use the heavy oil to artificially tighten up the
valves to remove any leakage.
This heavy oil will most likely make your valves slower-hopefully anyway.
If your valves do not slow down with the heavy oil in them, then there is a
good likelihood that there is valve wear.

Now replay all of the passages in the same order and as similar to how you
played them the first time and see if you notice a difference in how your 
horn
responds.
Is the sound clearer and more resonant?
Do the notes feel more centered?
Is the intonation better?
Is the articulation easier?
Is it less work to play 

Re: [Hornlist] Signs of leaky valves?

2006-01-07 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/7/06 12:54:44 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 A leak somewhere will usually cause a buzz somewhere on a 
 certain pitch, right?
 
Hi William,
I do not believe that this is true in relation to valve leakage- or even 
other leakage sometimes- such as solder breaks in tube connections. Leakage in 
the 
valves will cause some deterioration in the sound quality (generally as a 
lack of resonance-see my original post) or the intonation and response, but not 
a 
buzz.
The problems caused by valve leaking can go unnoticed by many players because 
the changes in the way the instrument reacts because of the leakage can be 
very subtle.
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Signs of leaky valves?

2006-01-07 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/7/06 12:34:27 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes

 Hi Paul.  You took the words right out of my mouth. I would (if I might be
presumtuous) add three points to your fine and comprehensive piece:

1.  Another sign of leakage is the drop in pitch of the Bb horn in relation
to the F. This is caused by the fact that the Bb horn wears out faster.

2.  The so called pop test is pretty much useless for evaluating valve
tightness. It relys on several misconceptions, eg., that the sides of the
rotor and casing are straight and concentric and seal equally in all
directions.  All the pop tells you is the relative tightness of an air
circuit that is never used.  The only accurate test is one using a static
air pressure gage to measure the leakage in the actual air path.

3.  Assuming the bearing plate is seated all the way down and we're talking
about end play of less than .010 or so (that's really a lot), the ability
of the rotor to move vertically is not a significant cause of leakage and
removing the end-pay will not tighten the air seal to any noticable extent.

I think the most important thing to remember about valve tightness is that,
assuming the valves were tight when new, the primary cause of deterioration
is not mechanical but chemical, and is almost entirely preventable.  Valve
that have been oiled on a regular basis have a service life of twenty years
or more.

Bob Osmun:

Hi Bob, 
Thanks for your comments to my post.

I wanted to respond to your additional comments to my post.

2.   The only accurate test is one using a static
  air pressure gage to measure the leakage in the actual air 
path.

This is a very accurate way to measure air leakage from the scientific 
viewpoint.
But as you know, most of the players out there do not have this equipment. 
I do believe, though, that sensitive players can easily discern leakage by 
the way their horn responds -- without this equipment .
   
   3.I think the most important thing to remember about valve 
tightness is that,
  assuming the valves were tight when new, the primary 
cause of deterioration
  is not mechanical but chemical, and is almost entirely 
preventable.  Valve
  that have been oiled on a regular basis have a service 
life of twenty years
  or more.

I agree that valve leakage is very preventable- assuming that the valves are 
built within good tolerances when they are made.
Unfortunately this is not the case with several manufacturers, and if there 
is sloppiness in the initial product, mechanical   wear can begin in a very 
short time.


 3.  Assuming the bearing plate is seated all the way down and we're talking
 about end play of less than .010 or so (that's really a lot), the ability
 of the rotor to move vertically is not a significant cause of leakage and
 removing the end-pay will not tighten the air seal to any noticable extent.
 
 

This is a debateable point because of the fine line between when the valve is 
working properly and when it comes to the point of where it starts to leak.
Vertical play is one of the causes of excessive wear in the valves and should 
be addressed and corrected whenever occurs.
It is also one of the major causes of valve sticking.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn 
Lyric Opera of Chicago (ret.)
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Re: [Hornlist] Signs of leaky valves?

2006-01-07 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/7/06 2:09:05 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Well it's happened on my horn due to a minor solder break and it's 
 happened 
 on other horns due to small leakages that pop up from time to time in 
 certain 
 places.
 
 Unless my ears were deceiving me? I heard from both cases a small sharp  
 buzz.
 
 -William
 

Hello William,

My post was basically about valve leakage, not solder connections.

Notice that I did say--
I do not believe that this is true in relation to valve leakage-  or even
other leakage sometimes- such as solder breaks in tube connections.
 
What I mean by saying sometimes ,is that sometimes this type of other leakage 
can cause a buzz and sometimes it does not cause a buzz.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Bach b1102

2005-12-23 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 12/23/05 5:22:09 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 their student instruments usually play as well or better than their custom, 
 hand made horns of the same design.
 

Yamaha's Custom Series (800 models) included the following:
Model   861- a Geyer   style instrument
862- a revised Kruspe style instrument
863- a Schmidt style instrument
867- a Knopf style instrument
These horns were handmade and they were discontinued after the mid 1990s.
There were no student models of these horns. There were some other Yamaha 
models that were somewhat similar to these models, but the Custom horns were 
unique of the Yamaha models.

Also, in regard to this discussion, advertising is just advertising and just 
because a maker labels their instrument a pro level horn does not in fact make 
it one. Especially if your definition of a pro horn is one that is well 
received and used by many professional performers.
If all of the manufacturers had their acts together, their so called pro 
level horns would be the best horns they produced. Unfortunately, this is not 
always the case.   
 Some manufactures try to avoid certain terminology in their advertising that 
they think might limit their sales. That is why we see few student model 
instruments and   few, if any,small bells. Some even avoid providing 
information as to who made their horn and what country the instrument was made 
in. We 
will see even more of this in the future.
The history of horn advertising has had too many examples of people endorsing 
certain horns and not using them (or in some cases, using highly customized 
versions of the horn to be able to play on it).
My point here is that horn advertising is just like other advertising and I 
think we all have to take it as such.
I had a great experience in the 70's with manufacturer BS.
I was playing extra with the CSO and the Midwest Band Convention was going on 
only three blocks from the hall.
Frank Brouk and I walked over to see the displays after a rehearsal and when 
we got to a certain manufacturers booth, Frank picked up their new double horn 
and started to try it.
Their rep. Immediately came over and started to tell him about how good it 
was.
Brouk (who had a fantastic sense of humor) asked him a few questions about 
the horn and the rep. then told us that this model horn was so good, that the 
company had given one to each member of the CSO and they liked them so much 
they 
were all playing on one. Frank's response was one of Really? That's 
fantastic! It must be a really great horn. 
The rep. went on to assure us that this horn was IT! We should both buy one. 
Frank thanked him and started to walk away from the booth (with the horn 
still with him), The rep. cleared his throat a few times as Frank got further 
away 
from the booth with the horn, and then he finally said, Sir, I believe 
that's our horn.
Frank turned around and smiled at him and said Oh, I 'm sorry, I thought I 
could keep it since I play with the CSO and did not get mine yet.
Boy, was that rep embarrassed !!
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Bach b1102

2005-12-23 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 12/23/05 10:17:55 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 There were/are at least 3 more Yamaha Custom  horn models:
 
 
Klaus,
Yamaha did not have   equal worldwide availability on all of their   Custom 
models.
Some were more easily available in Japan and Europe than in the US.
The four I listed were the most available in the US. The others were 
difficult to obtain.
Paul
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Re: [Hornlist] Anticipating the Beat

2005-10-10 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 10/10/05 6:48:54 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 You wonder what goes through the minds of the
 producers.
 
David and all,
Unfortunately, one of the big concerns of producers today (as I have 
witnessed on many recording sessions), is that the cost of recording (studio 
time, 
musicians fees, technicians fees, and all of the related expenses) has made 
their 
job one of trying to beat the clock.
Recording fees for everyone involved have really skyrocketed and its almost 
like some of the producers have little cash registers in their heads keeping 
count of how much money the whole thing is costing and rushing through many 
important steps (like microphone set up).
This has not helped produce very good results in way too many cases.
 Then, of course there are also those producers who are so incompetent that 
they couldn't produce a good 60 second spot if they had two weeks to put it 
together.   :)
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Anticipating the Beat

2005-10-10 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 10/10/05 6:48:54 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 You wonder what goes through the minds of the
 producers.
 
David and all,
Unfortunately, one of the big concerns of producers today (as I have 
witnessed on many recording sessions), is that the cost of recording (studio 
time, 
musicians fees, technicians fees, and all of the related expenses) has made 
their 
job one of trying to beat the clock.
Recording fees for everyone involved have really skyrocketed and its almost 
like some of the producers have little cash registers in their heads keeping 
count of how much money the whole thing is costing and rushing through many 
important steps (like microphone set up).
This has not helped produce very good results in way too many cases.
 Then, of course there are also those producers who are so incompetent that 
they couldn't produce a good 60 second spot if they had two weeks to put it 
together.   :)
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Anticipating the Beat

2005-10-10 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 10/10/05 2:14:56 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 But the main problems for recordings is the feed-back, so to
 say the SALE. As long as pop music could pay for classical
 recordings, the world was in good order,
 
Hi Hans,
I was refering mostly to commercial recordings- studio recordings -jingles 
-and popular cd's.
You are right about the other. The classical recording situation is much more 
complicated with the loss of the market for it .
 
And yes, I also agree with you. The GOLDEN YEARS are history.
In a conversation we had yesterday, Vince deRosa said basically the same 
thing-the good old days are over.
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] PBS (NHR) (was Lincoln Center Concert)

2005-06-16 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/16/05 11:53:25 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Let's take this discussion off the list please.
 

Why?
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] PBS (NHR) (was Lincoln Center Concert)

2005-06-16 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/16/05 12:52:01 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 The purpose of the Horn Discussion Group is to provide a forum for
 electronic conversation about all things relating to the horn's
 playing technique, repertoire, ensembles, personalities, and so on.
 

You might want to consider that funding for the NEA is also part of this 
package that is being threatened with cancellation.
The politics   of PBS and NPR are definitly not something to argue over here, 
however the funding of the NEA is something of importance to most, if not 
all, working hornplayers.
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/14/05 3:23:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 How do you do this?
 

Hi Howard,
The hole for   the string is drilled through the middle of the length of the 
push /piston and is smaller than the smallest diameter of the push /piston, 
therefore no leak occurs at any time.
   Here is a poorly done diagram of the inside   push/piston   withthe hole 
for the string drilled in it.
It was done with my computer keyboard, so it is a general idea .  
   __ 
  __
   _I  I___I  
I
   I  
   I
   I__I-
   ___ Hole drilled for 
string
   Iinside push/piston
   I
   I_    
I
 I_I   ^   II
   I   
cut out section 
for water to exit
  
I hope this helps explain where the hole goes, and why there is no leak.
I prefer Amado water keys because I believe there is less   acoustical 
interference with them.
This is a highly personal opinion and one which has little basis in fact, 
unless you talk to the Amado people and many trumpet players .
I also prefer the smaller hole in the leadpipe, but I am sure that there are 
just as many players or repair people who believe that there is no difference.
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/14/05 3:23:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 How do you do this
 

Howard, as I expected might happen, when I sent the posting, the formatting 
was moved by AOL and the lines came out in the wrong places.
I hope you can get the general idea though.
There is no hole through the amado key plunger for the water to exit .
There is a short lathed out section around the center of the plunger for the 
water to exit which leaves a solid center though   what I call the push/piston 
. The string hole is drilled through this solid section.
Paul
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/14/05 3:23:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 How do you do this?
 
Howard,

If this diagram and explanation doesn't make sense, send me your phone # and 
I will fax you a drawing of it.
Paul
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/14/05 11:39:32 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I'm sorry I caused suck a spit valve ruckus.
 
 

Aleks,
Don't be sorry, that's what we are here for !
Paul
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-13 Thread CORNO911
Hello Aleks,
Yes, it is possible to change the type of water key from the lever type to 
the Amado type.
The success of this repair depends on the size of the hole drilled for the 
nipple of the lever type key.
There has to be enough surface for the amado key to be well soldered on for 
the conversion to be successful. Translated-so it doesn't fall off!
Whoever does the conversion should be careful to place the Amado key barrel   
hole in the center of the existing hole, thereby supporting the key equally 
on all sides to give it enough strength to stay soldered.
I have done this conversion many times and never had one fall off.
I did it to my Paxman descant 15 years ago and it is still solidly on the 
horn.
I prefer the Amado keys to any lever type key.
I am sure Randy Ulmer in NYC could do this for you without any problems.
I hope this helps,
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-13 Thread CORNO911
 Concerning Aleks question--
As to statements that the hole is generally too big for this to work, one 
must check the size of the hole before judging the size without seeing it. 
Disassemble the lever style key and look at the size of the hole. Compare it to 
the 
hole in the barrel of the Amado water key. The rest has been discussed.

It is also possible to drill a hole through the middle of   the piston of the 
Amado water key and thread a string through it to use with your left hand 
thumb- just like the Holton water keys.

Paul Navarro
Custom horn
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Re: [Hornlist] What to watch out for on ebay

2005-05-08 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 5/8/05 2:36:55 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I agree with everything you say.  And I also hear your frustration because
 there's nothing you can do to level the playing field, and you find yourself
 backed up against your own integrity.  The important question is, exactly 
 how
 does this misrepresentation affect your business.
 
Bill,
Actually, this misrepresentation does not affect my business at all.
 I am not frustrated about, or do I feel the need to level the playing field, 
nor do I find myself backed up against my own integrity. 
I work primarily with professionals who would not be likely to be involved 
with a sale like this.
As far as leveling the playing field, I am not interested in rebuilding horns 
to resell and I have absolutely no question about the quality of our work.   
I also do not feel backed up against my own integrity. We each choose the 
level of our integrity and we live by it.
I chose to point the details of this one sale to the list, not because it 
offended me as
 a horn craftsman, but because it offended me as a performer and a teacher.

When you state in your e-mail-

What I don't see is why they are
compelled to lie in the first place.   Maybe that's the real tragedy, that
society has slipped to the point where people don't recognize truth from 
fiction.  
Even if the truth isn't damaging, make up a lie anyway.

Here you are getting to the sense of why I hate this type of behavior and 
wanted to expose it to the list.
This is not the first sale of its type from this seller.
I hate seeing people being deceived by companies or individuals like this.
E bay can be the source of many good high quality items, but as I originally 
stated it is important to
be watchful and careful.

I do not feel the need to discuss the details of this thread any more . The 
information is out there   and anyone who reads it can respond appropiately for 
themselves.
Paul Navarro 
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Re: [Hornlist] What to watch out for on ebay

2005-05-08 Thread CORNO911
Since my last posting on this subject, I have changed my mind about 
continuing this thread and thought it might be helpful to take   a different 
approach 
to this discussion in the possibility that some information   might help some 
players be more discerning about what   might have to be done to restore a 
badly damaged horn and knowing what to avoid when purchasing a used instrument.
 
With the instrument that was   the center of this discussion, the horn has, 
from the original sellers description, been trashed as far as the bell is 
concerned.
His   pictures show that the mouthpipe has been bent and his write up leaves 
to our imagination the condition of the valves and slides.
I always have a questioning reaction to an e-bay sellers description all of 
the slides and valves move freely in a write up.
Are the slides and valves moving freely because they work well ?   Or because 
the slides are loose and the valves are worn and need to be rebuilt?

Here   are some brief descriptions of what might be done to correct some of 
the problems with the horn.
I say brief because it would be too difficult and too time consuming to go 
into great detail about the details of such work.

If the slides need to be tightened, then do they need to be expanded in order 
to be   tightened ? and if so, how much?
This expansion can alter the inside bore of much of the cylindrical section 
of an instrument and can cause the instrument's response to be stuffy feeling..
Would it be better to replace and refit the loose slide tubing ? and if so, 
can it be done with tubing of the compatable weight, thickness, metal density, 
and bore size?
This is one reason some repair techs. buy old instruments. There is always 
the possibility, for example, that an old beat up Kruspe single F horn will 
have 
some unworn usauble parts on it -like the 3rd valve slide tubes.

To adequately straigthen the mouthpipe, is it necessary to remove the outer 
protective sleeve and replace it with a new one-or an undamaged one from a like 
instrument?
Can the mouthpipe be straigthened   in a way that retains the original 
taper?-or can that taper be recreated if necessary? Has the mouthpipes ventura 
or 
the negative taper for the mouthpiece been altered ? Is it possible to correct 
these and return them to the original specifications?
The stress created from the mouthpipe being bent must also be removed from 
the mouthpipe and the horn.
Of course, it is always possible to replace the mouthpipe with another 
Elkhart pipe in excellent condition, if one is available -or to use a new UMI 
Conn 
mouthpipe.
If a UMI mouthpipe is installed, should it still be represented as an Elkhart 
8D? or should a write up state that the original   mouthpipe was replaced?

The dents in the bell tail could be removed and smoothed out.   Then the bell 
could be cut and ringsinstalled and a new bell flare added.
This could be done with a new UMI flare, any aftermarket flare, a chinese 
flare, or an original flare in excellent condition from another Elkhart 8D ( 
very 
difficult to find in excellent or even good condition in my experience).
If this were done, I would as a buyer expect to be informed as to what kind 
of a flare had been installed.

The valves can be completely rebuilt -or the rotors replaced with new rotors.
To completely rebuild the valves would require first smoothing the insides of 
the casing walls . Often this part of the procedure is left out and can lead 
to premature wear and the need for more valve work.   Next, it is necessary to 
plate the original rotors with copper and nickel to build up the fit and then 
finally, hand lap them to the desired fitting ,so that the valve clearance 
within the casing is the same for the entire length of the rotor and for each 
valve. Attention must also be paid to making sure that the bearings are also 
refitted so they have no play.
 Valves rarely show the same amount of wear within an individual horn, so the 
amount of plating and fitting each valve needs must be observed and 
addressed.   Some players like the final air seal to be very tight and some do 
not. 
When I was apprenticing with Geyer, he always wanted just a very little air 
leakage   in the valves to help create a nice legato feel to the horn and   to 
help 
create what he called the Gravy in the sound.
In today's horn world, this concept of slightly leaky valves   can be a cont
roversial subject.

Removing dents and the smoothing of the metal and refinishing it for   
lacquering, all too frequently, is accomplished by   sanding the metal smooth 
after 
the dents have been basically removed.
This can leads to thin spots and uneveness in the metal wall thickness which 
can affect the response in various areas of the overtone patterns.
There are dent machines available, and in use, that help smooth out even the 
worst of dents and
leave a very nice looking result in a short period of time, however much 
damage to the metal intergrity and the 

[Hornlist] What to watch out for on ebay

2005-05-07 Thread CORNO911
Fellow colleagues,
 Here is a great example of why to be careful when using ebay.
Check out item # 7321051354  Conn 8D
read the write up carefully and then go to their feedback and check out the 
item they bought
#7310468415   Conn 8D

Read their comments   about the bell, and then look closely at the engraving, 
it is close, but not the same as on a C series 8D.

They make it sound like they found it in excellent condition--exceptionally 
well cared for
sharp engraving--verses the original description when they bought it--bell 
completely shot.
 Although the sellers state that the horn is totally restored, their 
implication is that the horn is all original and that the bell is original. 
Draw your own conclusions about this.

This is an example of what to be careful of when buying a horn on ebay
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] What to watch out for on ebay

2005-05-07 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 5/7/05 5:55:42 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I would not enjoy being fooled in this way, but if the horn plays well, 
 where
 is the harm?  I would feel more embarrassment, than harm.  I guess I don't
 much care what they tell me as long as I have recourse to evaluate the end
 result.
 

Bill,
If the horn plays well, then there should be no need to misrepresent the 
details.

Would you not care if you bought a car and were told that it was 
exceptionally well cared for and was completely original, but the reality was 
that it had 
been wrecked, rebuilt, and repaired with new parts installed that were not 
really original and then repainted?
There are laws against that, even though it is frequently done by 
unscrupulous dealers.

Our shop works primarily with professional players and we service and 
customize 8D's for many of the countries finest performers.
Most professional 8D players are very savvy to the differences between the 
different number and letter series horns. Most of them prefer buying a horn 
that 
has not been restored and is completely original, to a horn that has been 
completely restored. That way they know the exact condition of the horn they 
are 
buying. They can always have the work done that is necessary after the 
purchase.
E series horns have different characteristics than H series which have 
different characteristics than K and so on for all of the different 
series-especially the pre letter series.
These are both playing AND structural characteristics as to tapers and metal 
thickness.

Yes, parts can be interchanged and different characteristics can be created 
making some horns better, and some not quite as good as they were originally.
My main objection to this type of advertising is that I believe that a buyer 
should be informed by the seller what has been done to the horn in restoring 
it. If the seller had to replace the bell or the bell flare or the mouthpipe, 
say so.
Some (thankfully few) shops do a chop shop repair where dents are basically 
removed and then sanded out. Pitting is sanded out. Then the metal is buffed to 
a nice finish and lacquered. We have even seen dents that have been fillled 
with bondo and then painted over.
Damaged parts are replaced with new parts. These shops can end up with a horn 
that looks great, and plays O.K., but has many thin places and very little 
life left in the metal.
As a buyer wouldn't you rather know about this?

Granted there are some players who are not familiar enough with the model or 
experienced enough to tell the difference, but that does not mean that the 
seller does not have a responsibility to disclose what has been done to the 
horn 
to restore it. Yes, If there is a trial period, then whoever buys it can 
decide whether or not it is worth the price, but sometimes a seller may choose 
not 
to disclose this information because they know that
a badly damaged horn that has been restored will probably not command as high 
of a selling price as an all original horn . I also have seen few horns where 
the horn needed extensive rebuilding with a bell that was trashed- with 
cracks and splits and patches, and that needed a complete valve rebuilding that 
would come under the qualification of exceptionally well cared for.
I believe that It is basically a question of the sellers integrity to the 
buyer.
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Ebay 8D

2005-03-29 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 3/28/05 7:40:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 
 I believe the R series was the last letter series and,
 TTBOMK, they were made in both Indiana and Texas. 
 I have an unaltered R horn that has a Texas bell and
 tapered Elkhart rotors.
 

The R series horns ,regardless of wherever the parts were made, were 
assembled   very incompetently in Texas.
Paul Navarro 
Custom Horn
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[Hornlist] 8D on EBAY

2005-03-28 Thread CORNO911
 Hello All-
In support of what Ken Pope has written, the sellers of this instrument have 
been informed that the bell is not an Elkhart bell and that they are 
advertising the horn as an Elkhart horn. Their answer is thank you for the 
information.
This borders very closely as fraudulent advertising.
If you completely restore an Elkhart 8d and replace the original bell with an 
Eastlake bell, you then no longer have an Elkhart 8d.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Ebay 8D

2005-03-28 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 3/28/05 11:59:33 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 And what about that serial number (R35011, circa 1972)?  I thought the 
 older Elkhart 8D's only went up to the N series
 
 
 

R series are Texas horns.
As to the mechanical Bb lever, if you were to buy several older beat up 
Elkhart horns and combine the parts, you might end up with a mechanical Bb 
lever on 
your Texas series horn with a Eastlake bell.
I am guessing that we will probably see a C series horn with a new bell on 
Ebay soon.
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Fwd: [Hornlist] Re:  fixed bell and airlines

2005-03-15 Thread CORNO911
 
---BeginMessage---
To add a bit more confusion to the subject,
I have had many different responses to carrying my horn on board, but one was 
probably the most honest.
After having to buy an extra seat for my horn on a flight to a concert series 
in Banff that I was playing, I finally got fed up with all of the regulations 
that I had encountered and decided to try to go to the source of who knew 
what.
I spent about 5 hours one day on the phone with United staff people (read 
flunkies) until I frustrated one individual to the point that she gave me the 
phone number of their Vice President of International Baggage.
When I finally got through to this person she asked me how I had obtained her 
number?
I explained to her that I had coerced it out of one of their staff after much 
persistence.
She then said that since I had made it that far, she would give me the 
information I was looking for and be very honest about it but that I probably 
wouldn't be very happy about it.

She said that whether or not I was able to carry on my horn most likely 
depended on the attitude of the last person (usually a flight attendant) that I 
would encounter before I boarded the plane.
If that person was in a good mood and feeling in a helpful mode, I would 
probably get the horn on.
If the person was feeling harassed and having problems getting people on the 
plane, it would take some gentle (or more) persuasion.
If that person was having a bad day, forget it.

Her comments have proven to be quite on track.
So my advice is to keep your horn as much out of sight as possible -- for 
example, if you are with someone at the ticket counter who is with you but not 
going on the flight, they keep the horn while you are checking in. If you can 
make it to the boarding platform with your horn, it is generally more of a 
problem for them to send you back to baggage counter than it is to stow it 
inside 
the plane.
I have even had a stewardess put my horn in her own personal carry on space 
using this technique.
I know other players who have used this method and it generally works out 
O.K.
Paul Navarro
---End Message---
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Re: [Hornlist] My first Acid cleaning of valves

2005-03-12 Thread CORNO911
Just for the record with all of this talk about acid bathing valve rotors,
if you are not diluting the acid, you are not doing it correctly.

Paul Navarro
Custom Horn 
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Re: [Hornlist] odd ball mouthpiece

2005-02-08 Thread CORNO911
 
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Re: [Hornlist] Mystery Horn

2004-11-14 Thread CORNO911
The B and S factory in East Germany (the company that used to make Hoyers)
also made an Alex 103 copy .
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Re: [Hornlist] RE: Musicality

2004-11-05 Thread CORNO911
 
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Re: [Hornlist] oil addict

2004-10-12 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 10/12/04 2:59:28 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Would it be better to oil through a male tube?
 
Using this manner of oiling, it is possible to get extraneous slide grease or 
other matter into the valves from the crook attached to the slide 
tube-especially if there is any corrosion in the slide crook. 
I have found for my own use, and I always recommend to my clients that they 
find an eyedropper bottle to use.
First remove the slide and with a few drops of oil in the dropper, place it 
all of the way into the outer slide tube, then squirt the oil directly onto the 
rotor.
This method seems to avoid the problems you are discussing.
Paul Navarro
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Re: [Hornlist] Bach Mouthpiece.

2004-10-04 Thread CORNO911
Wendel ,
A 7s Bach has their symphonic backbore( which is a little bigger than the   
normal 7).
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Re: [Hornlist] Mouthpieces

2004-09-29 Thread CORNO911
Since I have received a few private emails concerning information about the 
book on mouthpieces that I mentioned in my earlier post on mouthpieces,
here is the information that I have:

Title:Understanding the Mouthpiece
Authors:   John and Phyllis Stork
Publisher: Editions Bim
CH-1630 Bulle
Switzerland

Paul Navarro 
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Mouthpieces

2004-09-28 Thread CORNO911
One of the most important decisions that the player has to make when choosing 
a mouthpiece is what inner diameter(I.D.) fits your musculature.
Lip size and shape are important considerations in determining this.
The upper rim of the mouthpiece must be above the vibrating surface of the 
lip and NOT on this surface in order to achieve the greatest amount of 
efficiency and freedom for the lip to vibrate.
If the rim is directly on top of the vibrating surface, then the player will 
have to blow harder in order to get the lips to vibrate.
Once you find a comfortable inside diameter, you can have a rim made and try 
different cups or try mouthpieces with that I.D., to see what helps you 
achieve your artistic goals.
One source of excellent information is the small book THE MOUTHPIECE written 
by John and Phyllis Stork.
It used to be available from Stork. It may still be.
The player who was switching between the Schilke 30 and 31B was actually 
switching inside diameter sizes and this can cause problems. 
 By using one inside diameter and becoming familiar with it, you allow your 
embouchure to   learn what to do within that rim's I.D. because it can rely on 
the sameness of the rim. The familiar becomes instinctual and reliable -- 
allowing you to concentrate more on musical production.
When you switch between mouthpieces with different I.D.'s ,you take the risk 
of confusing your muscles and having to think about aspects of what you are 
doing that could have become instinctual -- then you may have to focus more on 
production than the music.
Getting the help of a qualified mouthpiece maker can save you much time and 
much money.
John Stork
Tom Greer
Scott Laskey
Greg Black
These are all competent mouthpiece makers and while each player may have 
their favorite,
you certainly will get more help and guidance from one of them then from your 
local music store or mindless Internet purchases.
Paul Navarro
custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Scales and Juggling a Soccer ball

2004-09-16 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 9/16/04 4:22:21 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Couldn't our practice time be
 better spent on other facets of the endeavor?
 

It all depends on how you practice scales.
If you mindlessly run through them, then playing them is not to a useful 
purpose. 
However, since we are supposedly musical creators each time we play, if you 
put each scale into a musical context and create   some type of musical 
challenge with it , then scales become helpful creative, difficult(if your challenges 
are), and fun.
Paul Navarro 
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: Horn Digest, Vol 21, Issues 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, etc.........

2004-09-12 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 9/12/04 10:01:12 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Exclusive Bundy, Carl Fischer, Olds Ambassador, Sansone and Conn Artist Who
 Does Not Get His Horns For Free
 
Dear Sir:
A representative from our company recently heard your performance with the NJ 
Turnpike Authority Drum and Bugle Corps, The Phantom Lane Changers
What a shame that an artist of your stature has to purchase his own 
instruments.
Our company would like to offer you an Artist Clinician position and (of 
course) a free horn
if you would consider performing on and sponsoring our newly designed
TONE FREE MODEL quadruple horn.
It is superbly made by well trained craftsman from Manchu Pichu who have been 
constructing horns 
for over five centuries and who guarantee it for the life of your career.
A recent review of the horn appeared in the Amazonian Horn Club's latest 
digest.
The reviewer found the horn to be unbelievable in all respects
adding, if I had such a horn, I would never have another worry about the 
direction of my career
Hoping you will accept our offer, all we require is a money order to secure 
your flight to Manchu Pichu for presentation of the horn and pictures for our 
brochure (approx. $4000 US).
Hoping for your fast and enthusiastic response,
we remain sincerely in awe of your qualifications,
the guys from M. P. 

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Re: [Hornlist] Valve Cleaning Class

2004-09-11 Thread CORNO911
It is probably important to note here that most insurance policies do not 
cover damage caused to your horn out of stupidity.
Any reference to some postings on this subject are not co- incidental.
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] Valve Cleaning Class

2004-09-10 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 9/10/04 7:16:25 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 So the
 question is has anyone tried an alcohol rinse (in addition to general
 cleaning I suppose) and would it be of any help in routine cleaning??
 

Robert,
The cleaning   of the valves and slides with alcohol before storing a horn 
that I mentioned was not to actually clean the   horn(as in an ultrasound or 
acid bath cleaning) , but basically to degrease it so the grease and oil would 
not gum or harden over time.
Paul Navarro

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Re: [Hornlist] Valve Cleaning Class

2004-09-08 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 9/8/04 9:02:03 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 and put one last coat of quality oil before storage.
 

No, a final last coat of quality oil is   not necessary or desirable.
The oil will congeal and gum up and make slides   and valves hard to move or 
to freeze.
It is better to clean all   of   the slides off with alcohol(91%), and   to 
wash   out the valves and casings   with alcohol.
I have stored horns for over 5 years using this method and when I unpack 
them, all of the valves and slides work without any problems.
Paul Navarro 
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] A Do-It-Yourself Screwbell How-To...

2004-08-29 Thread CORNO911
jrc in SC

It shouldn't be too expensive to make a do it yourself screw bell conversion 
kit.
I would only cost about $1000.

$100  for the ring
$ 50   for the instructions
$ 100  for the necessary tools and supplies( unless you already have an 
adequate torch)
$ 750 for  a qualified repair tech to supply a new bell and new ring and to 
correct what ever other damage you incur to your horn by trying to do this 
without  knowing what you are doing. :)
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] New horns on Ebay for $125?!

2004-08-22 Thread CORNO911
I hope more people-both players and repair techs- will come out as Paul 
Mansur has when he called these horns Chinese junk.
I,unfortunately, have had the opportunity to work on several of these horns 
and completely agree with his evaluation.
I have not found even one aspect of these horns that is of acceptable 
quality.
We no longer will work on them, because it is not worth our time or the 
customers money.

Some of the major American musical   instrument manufacturers are calling 
these instruments  ISOs---INSTRUMENT SIMILAR OBJECTS-- and the description 
fits.

 As to the ads for these horns on eBay, many of the ads claim that the horns 
are Band Director Approved.
I have a really hard time believing that any serious band director could 
recommend these instruments
to his students.
One seller claims that the horns are recommended by the MENC.
I also have a hard time believing that one.
It is too bad that there is not a way to put a stop to those claims, since I 
am sure they help persuade some unknowing buyers to purchase these 
instruments.
Paul Navarro 
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] New horns on Ebay for $125?!

2004-08-22 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 8/22/04 9:30:11 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 For
 example, First Act instruments have a warranty - a two year warranty! 
 

David, 
I was suprised at part of your response.
WHAT GOOD IS A TWO YEAR WARRANTY IF THE HORN DOES NOT PLAY WELL???

Paul Navarro 
Custom Horn
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