[lace] maths/lace/fine art???
Re Jane Read's post, digest number 054: I absolutely agreed with Jane's point of view - as a trained Fine Artist (how pompous that sounds!) I couldn't have put it better myself. Whether working lace monochromatically, or in glorious technicolor, surely it's the end result that counts?! Best wishes, Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Karen Beck??
Does anyone on the list have any contact with Karen Beck (Columbia MD) or know of her whereabouts? If so, please email me privately. Sandi Woods - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Colour in lace....
Re the query from Ann Humphreys lace digest no.#39: As many people are perhaps aware, way back in 1991, I worked out how it would be possible to invisibly change the colours of threads when working lace and was invited by BT Batsford to write two books* about it. The methods are many and varied but the basic advice that I can offer is: Hang the new pair on a temporary pin above the work, as near as possible in the angle along which it will be travelling once in work.i.e. if it is a passive pair to be changed, then the new pair is to hang directly above the work, but if the leader pair is to be changed, then the new pair is to hang along the path the leaders will take. Cloth stitch the new pair through the old pair and tension, tie a reef/square knot and a half with the old pair.remembering, to when tying the knots of the old pair, to tension the threads by pulling their ends along the direction that the old thread, and consequently the new thread will be travelling i.e.a new passive pair will be tied vertically, whereas a leader pair will be tied slightly off the horizontal. Ease down the new pair, and throw back the old pair, both pairs still following their angles of working. Basic, illustrated, thread changing pattern booklets and more advanced patterns are available from my website: www.sandiwoods.com where I may also be contacted (via the website). I will be tutoring a workshop 'Changing Colour in Lace' at The Lace Society AGM on 29th April 2017 - for more information and details contact The Lace Society. *Both of these books are out of print, but it is worth enquiring of The Lace Guild from time to time to see if they have used/donated copies of my two books; 'Special Effects in Coloured Bobbin Lace' and 'Alphabet Inspirations in Coloured Bobbin Lace'. Hopefully this note may be of some help to Ann and others... Sandi Woods (Currently enjoying yet more torrential rain in Warwickshire, UK) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Lace as Art?
I too, along with other lacemakers, have been rather too busy to join this somewhat ridiculous discussion. Invited to the IOLI Convention in Indianapolis, I've been teaching some of the techniques that allow for ideas to be expressed in bobbin lace in a painterly manner. Is this Art? Dear me, could that mean I'll be accused of teaching Art? Since when have textiles been excluded from the definition of Art? By whom? Most lacemakers that know me and/or my work, know that for me, working with textiles and other mediums, usually in paint, pastel and pencil, is what I do as a Fine Artist and as a lacemaker. (Note: Capital Letters - this makes it altogether more Important) If I work in silk textiles, does that make me a Fine Artist (2nd class) or a Lacemaker (1st class)? Why on earth should anyone want to define what I do anyway? Will it mean they like my lace more if I call myself an Artist or less, if categorised as a 'mere' lacemaker? Will it help Devon to decide upon the answer to her question if she knows I spent many years, at the Government's expense, learning how to 'do' Fine Art (which, by the way, included textiles in the College prospectus)? So many questions and none of them really worth a discussion. If textiles simply aren't 'Art'.then the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (and others world-wide) might feel they have some explaining to do. Has the public been hood-winked for years? There have been numerous efforts to define what Art actually is, for decades, for centuries even, and should the definitive answer ever be found, how would that benefit anyone? For me, I do what I do. I have ideas and choose what I feel is the best and most suitable medium to use for their creation. Some may like my finished pieces, some may not, but I create them nonetheless. The need to create is like breathing and I don't plan on stopping either anytime soon! Perhaps Devon et al would like to ponder on the words of Leonardo da Vinci, "When the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art'. I couldn't have put it better myself! Sandi (Just about to untangle myself and find my paintbrush) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Email address typo!
Oops...sorry! My posting last night contained a typo - my email address should read: tosandiwo...@gmail.com Thanks to all for pointing it out! Sandi. (Dreary and chilly here in Warwickshire UK today.but not raining!) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Lace Alphabet?
I'm sorry but I don't have up-to-the-minute info on where to get hold of my book Alphabet Inspirations in Coloured Bobbin Lace ...but I can tell you that each letter is worked in bobbin lace and has two different ways of working it, with detailed pin by pin instructions for each version. (I do not use pre-made tapes, or variegated threads, in any of my patterns.) In the book, one version uses Milanese Braids and the other version uses basic lacemaking stitches i.e. Cloth stitch, Halfstitch and Cloth stitch & twist. Both versions use the same set of colours, each set of 7 colours is interchangeable with those suggested for all the other letters.The colours are selected to describe the form the letter takes. I did produce at least one spin-off pattern from each letter, but unfortunately there wasn't enough room to include them all. The bonus with that book in particular, is that there is a detailed chapter on the colour techniques that I'd devised in order to work using colour for bobbin lace in a painterly way. Although, since writing the book in 2004, I have devised many more. My website, also featuring new work and containing a hopefully interesting, and informative, monthly blog may be found at: www.sandiwoods.com I can also be contacted by email at: tosandowo...@gmail.com I hope this info helps! Sandi. (Enjoying a sunny and colourful, but autumnal day in Warwickshire, UK) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Piper's Silks contact number change!
Susan Peck (of Piper's Silks) has asked me to post this message on Arachne that unfortunately, due to a mammoth foul-up by British Telecom, Piper's Silks have had to change their Customer phone number. Please would all her customers make a note of the new number, which is now: 01787 280940 Obviously many apologies are offered for any inconvenience occurring. Sandi Woods. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Piper's Silk threads
Hello All! It's good to read all the many endorsements for Piper's Silks - this is why I've been using those wonderful silks for years! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Piper's Silks - News update!
Hello All! I have been able to make contact with Susan at Piper's Silks - she tells me that all is well, except that she's having problems with BT, which is both her Internet provider and land-line supplier Hopefully these problems will be sorted out before too long, but in the meantime she assures me that she is both alive and kicking! By the way, I've been using Piper's Silks for more years than I can remember - and they are brilliant! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] More Milanese!
I really enjoyed reading Elizabeth Kurella's piece about 3-dimensional
Milanese lace - I saw a few examples of it some years ago (I think it might
have been in Como?) and found it fascinating.
Over the years since then, those memories have inspired me to work
3-dimensionally, when appropriate, in some of my own designs. ('Les Fees
Vertes' and 'The Bamboo Grove' are small collections where some of them
feature.) I'm even working a Milanese piece with 3-D at the moment...
When I go to Sweet Briar in June this year, I shall be teaching 3-D in
Milanese to at least one person there, though they don't yet realise it -
however, they do now! (Aaargghhh, panic...It's headless chicken time!)
I shall certainly be looking out for the 3-D examples in the Sweet Briar
College collection! Thank you so much Elizabeth, for mentioning them. How
exciting!
Sandi
-
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[lace] Adding and throwing out pairs in Milanese braids re 'Philosophical question'
Hello Susan, and anyone else who ponders this question, Unless the piece in question is being worked as a reconstruction, I can think of no basic reason why a Milanese braid should be worked using a rigid set of rules. Of course there are defining characteristics which enable us to categorise a style of lace, but these characteristics are simply a tool with which to do this. In the past, the number of pairs and the techniques used to create the piece in a Milanese style were chosen to suit the end result. Nothing has changed. I design pieces which often tend to the Milanese style and use Milanese braids, where the style suits the piece, but I also add and throw out pairs in pattern constantly, to describe the form, be it a fish, a bird, a shell, a twig of a stem of straight bamboo. If working in a purely graphic manner, rather than a naturalistic one, why should it be different? The design will either work as a good one, or it won't. A weedy braid will just look weedy, unless more pairs are added or the design is changed. With too many pairs, the braid will be cramped or unworkable. Why shouldn't a braid pattern follow the complete path of a section, whether it narrows, widens or travels around a tight curve? These days we are not (metaphorically) chained to our pillows, thankfully, so we are free to add and throw out pairs without redress to anything other than the end result of the lace itself. Pairs can be added to the existing braid pattern working pairs, in addition to the side space passive pairs that may or may not be bordering them. To see many examples of all this in action, you might like to visit my website: www.sandiwoods.com Susan, I'm looking forward to seeing you in my class at Sweet Briar in June! Sandi - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] We're actually moving - at last!
Hello! Yes.we're on the move, starting tomorrow! However, with the wonders of modern technology, British Telecom are SO excited and over-whelmed by it all that they simply can't link us up to a land-line phone or the internet or civilisation as we've come to know it, for 3-4 weeks (this is not a typo!). So, for any of you out there planning to take one of my forthcoming workshops and are concerned that I haven't responded with my usual speed, concerned too perhaps that I may have fallen off the planet, the move being further than anticipated, rest assured! I will be able to catch up with my e-mails every few days - courtesy of daughter's wi-fi! So please be patient if you have any queries over workshops, booklet orders, techniques or pattern instructions...I will get back to you as soon as I can. In the meantime, if anyone feels they can pull any strings with BT for us - please do! Progress is A Wonderful Thing..I keep telling myself! Best wishes, Sandi - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Carrots?! Cabbages and caterpillars too!!
Hilarious! Carrots for bobbins - it gives a whole new meaning to 'taking a packed lunch' to a Lace Day! However, for anyone interested in healthy eating, my website Blog and Gallery has photos of, not just carrots, but cabbages and caterpillars too! Sandi. www.sandiwoods.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] Silly Prices!
Hello! Yesterday I was horrified to hear from somone that Amazon are offering used copies of booklets, containing my work, for ridiculously silly prices...one being about £75 and the other about £55. Please, do not buy them!!! I can't believe anyone would seriously consider paying those prices, but just in case they are having a moment of madness, I would like to assure them that I will be re-publishing my patterns. They will easily, and affordably, be available from me directly. If you would like any information about availability, or indeed anything else, I can always be contacted by email: tosandiwo...@gmail.com or via my website: www.sandiwoods.com With best wishes, Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] Tying off silk threads
I work almost exclusively in colour and so I'm continually changing pairs to suit the design. Having been using Gutermann and Piper's silks for over twenty years, the most successful and unobtrusive way that I've found to tie off pairs of silk threads is to use a reef knot and a half: Left over right, then right over left, then left over right again (or you can start with right over left...etc). This has worked for me whether I'm changing edge pairs, leaders or passive pairs, sometimes many pairs across one row if the design demands it and is the technique I pass on to my students. The slightly curious aspect of cutting the ends, is that it pays to be bold and cut the ends quite close to the knot. If the thread ends are left too long, then they are more likely to be caught and moved by any working threads in use over the top of them. It seems to be this movement, rather than the tightness of the knot tying, that will cause the knots to unravel. If the possibility of rubbing the knots/thread ends loose could be a problem, and it isn't possible to protect the knotted ends with a cover cloth or a piece of soft plastic while work continues, I tend to tie the ends as usual, but leave the threads long which are then wrapped around a pushed down berry pin at the side of the work. The ends can then be cut whenever it seems appropriate. If I'm tying off several pairs, perhaps at the end of a section then, after tying pairs individually, I tie them in a bunch: Take one thread from either side of the bunch, crossing over and under the bunch, finishing with a reef knot and a half, then with a few hitches around the bundle with one of the threads. My website www.sandiwoods.com contains photos of 'work in progress', I hope to put some more onto it later today, so it should be possible to see how these techniques work for me. I hope this is of some help! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] New website!
At last! I have a website!!! A long time coming, I may be hearing...??? Hopefully, you will think it has been worth the wait. I discovered that feeding my son-in-law was the vital key to success, though there are others, without whose help, all sanity would have been lost. I am aware that there may be a few teething problems and an odd hiccup picked up by PC users, but if you could view this a 'work in progress' preview to the main event, grateful thanks would head your way. Please do contact me - your feedback will be appreciated. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] New website! Oops - forgot to send address! www.sandiwoods.com
At last! I have a website!!! A long time coming, I may be hearing...??? Hopefully, you will think it has been worth the wait. I discovered that feeding my son-in-law was the vital key to success, though there are others, without whose help, all sanity would have been lost. I am aware that there may be a few teething problems and an odd hiccup picked up by PC users, but if you could view this a 'work in progress' preview to the main event, grateful thanks would head your way. Please do contact me - your feedback will be appreciated. www.sandiwoods.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] More poppies - in glorious technicolour!
Hello! Since there appears to be a growing interest for poppies, perhaps fellow Arachnians would like to see my effort for the Californian Poppy Project - in glorious technicolour? If so, e-mail me privately and I'll send some photos! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Poppies!
Hello! Thank you everyone, for the interest shown in my Poppy photos - I have been somewhat amazed to receive such a positive feedback. However, I was obviously not the only one to be overwhelmed, my computer crashed half-way through when I was trying to answer all your kind messages. So, if you have written to me and not received a reply, please accept my apologies and write again. I will talk sternly to/negotiate with my computer and try to get back to you! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Venetian lace
Hello Spiders! In answer to Aurelia's query about the Tebb's instuctions for Venetian lace: Many years ago, I was taught the Venetian lace flower by Pat Read, using those same instructionsfor Aurelia and anyone else that may be interested, I found that the instructions are interesting and they do work, there is a photo too! In fact, I had occasion to use a part of them recently when working the small piece, 'Pavilion Flower', which will be included in the forthcoming booklet 'Regency Lace, Part 2' (see www.jeanmaryeke.com). An old book, it may be, but.have fun, it's worth it! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Mourning lace
In answer to Lora's query, I have a Victorian black silk mourning dress (separate sleeved top and skirt, that would have been worn attached, plus over skirt) which is decorated with black yak lace embellished with French 'jet' (glass) beads. I daresay that most other types of lace were also used for clothes, since in Victorian times so many people were in mourning for so much of the time! Sandi. In sunny but cold Rochester, Kent, UK. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Change of address!
Hello everyone! Please note that very shortly my Tiscali address will be closing! My new e-mail address is ready for use now and is; tosandiwo...@googlemail.com Best wishes, Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Silk and Milanese braids
I've had a query on Arachne, from Sue in Dorset who is thinking of working one of my pieces (which Brenda kindly answered), passed on to me. This answer may be of some help to her, I hope so: In the introductions in both of my own books, I cover the reasons why I work in silk comprehensively. If the piece in question is 'S' for Serpent, which was included in New Braids and Designs for Milanese Lace by Patricia Read and Lucy Kincaid, then the reasons for the suggested threads, which I used, are probably less clear. I wholeheartedly recommend using silk for my patterns in Milanese lace, if for no other reason that it compresses well when working the curves which are characteristic of my designs and Milanese lace, so there should be fewer problems with the lace crinkling around the curves. Cotton and linen simply do not compress so closely. If Sue would like to contact me privately, I shall be delighted to offer any further assistance. Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Le Monastier
Stevenson's extensive travels with his donkey took him around the Auvergne and also into the Ardeche regions in France. For many years we have been travelling right through Le Monastier when we're on holidayit is fairly close to Le Puy en Velay and Retournac too. The museum in Retournac, which is housed in an old lace factory and has been mentioned on Arachne before, has an ancient motor bike exhibited. This bike was once ridden for the collection of lace made in the local villages, where once the collections were made on foot. One such small mountain village is called Le Beage, where once there was a lace 'outlet'according to the weathered writing on the front of the house. The house is now a Gites de France holiday home.I have the photo, somewhere. Sandi, in an ever greyer Rochester, Kent. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Montreal IOLI Convention photos - Correction!
In case of confusion. The photograph illustrating the 'Fishy-on-a-Dishy' motif was the pattern I donated to the Dentellieres de Quebec, for their use in the IOLI Montreal 2006 Convention Pattern or Handbook. The pieces the 12 hour and 24 hour classes shown working on were, 'Herring-Ripple', 'Ripple-Weed' or 'Soused Herring'. Although part of the 'Herring Series', those patterns were rather more complex! An easy mistake to make..they are many herrings in the 'Herring Series' and now, there's even a red one!! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: What's everybody doing?
Hello everyone! I'm currently working on the seventh (of twelve!) wing section of my Bird of Paradise, in coloured Milanese, which is the penultimate pattern to be made for the projected next book..which is very much a continuation of the last one...!! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] re;'where can I get bobbins like that?'
Hello! The bobbins, described as having little Russian dolls at their spangle end, sound very much like those I have! My bobbins are turned by Graham Hudson and painted by Sallie Reason. They're available by mail order (send for catalogue) from Graham and Jenny Hudson, 3 Nutcroft, Pulborough, West Sussex, RH20 2JF. ENGLAND. My catalogue is a little out of date, so unfortunately I don't have any e-mail or web-site details (I buy from them at lace days or fairs!), maybe someone else can help with those? Sandi Woods in dull, but warm and humid (how nice!), Rochester, England. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Milanese 'cross-over' pattern!?
Hello Tamara, also anyone else with an interest! If you want a Milanese 'cross-over' pattern - look no further than Ribbon Grass Seedling pattern in my latest book and knock off the Seedling section! (There's also a basic stitch version too!) Ribbon Grass (without the Seedling) is a pattern that's been one of my workshop pieces for about seven years nowI think I might even have done it for one of the Lace Guild's courses way back in timeit must have been worked by hundreds, if not thousands by now!! It's a development from the letter 'L'. The original Ribbon Grass has colourways in blues/mauve/white, pinks/white, and purple/coral/cream.in addition to the variations illustrated in the 'Alphabet Inspirations...' book. If anyone would like one of the colour set lists, please e-mail me personally! Merry Christmas from Sandi, in foggily festive Rochester, Kent! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Brick wall???
Interestingly, I read, that due to the design decisions made when I was designing the letters for my recent book, it appears that I might have run into a 'brick wall'? In case anyone fears for my safety, I would like to assure those who may be interested that is simply not the case. Far be it for me to set myself up as an oracle of all things calligraphic*, but I shall set the record straight with regard to my design choices. I was first taught to write in a style generally known as 'cursive', more years ago than I would care to think about, and it is this style that I simply 'trued' up for the book. I have since identified the style in Letraset's Graphic Design Handbook as Cloister Cursive which can be found on page 1.62. Further perusal of any graphic/calligraphic book will offer any number of ways of producing a recognisable letter 'T'plenty of left and right curl choices, many with no curls or angles at all, some where only the merest hint of a conventional 'T' is suggested. As with any design or artwork, if the idea is communicated in the manner intended, then there is no right or wrong. Whatever is the problem then, with the curl on the letter 'T'??? My advice? A large Gin and Tonic, with ice and lemon...! Sandi. *An aside that may be of some amusement, since it causes no end of amusement to friends and family and anyone unfortunate enough to receive anything handwritten from me.my writing is best described as being 'totally illegible' to all but me - this is a vicious lie.even I can't always read it .following on from my childish but legible cursive handwriting, I changed schools. After six months or so, the new school's headmistress became enamoured by the fashionable new style of writing..'Italic'. She insisted that the whole school would thenceforth write in the new style regardless of whether their handwriting was good, bad or indifferent...or even if they were right or left-handed. (Note the last phrase there! The part about being 'left'-handed.) Our lunatic Headmistress hadn't even considered there might be a problem for left-handers, but she had considered that our 'normal' fountain pens wouldn't be suitable for the new 'Italic' styleso we were issued with 'dip' pens and inkwells in desks were duly filled (this really does show my age here - if anyone isn't following this, either ask an ageing relative or visit a museum!). How kind and thoughtful one might be given to think, that she even provided us with the tools for the job, but just not quite thoughtful enough. Of course, all the pen nibs were for right-handed people - there simply weren't any for the odd left handers (no-one had realised there was a difference!). I think there could have been no more than a handful of we, the 'odd' ones in the whole school! Consequently when I tried to write with the right-handed nib, using my left hand, the paper became a shredded artform besplattered with ink - I became a non-shredded artform besplattered with ink. Many parental/teacher discussions followedand after quite some time I was given a left-handed Italic fountain pen, but by then my 'Left-handed Italic/Cursive/Get the Work Written Somehow' style, developed out of sheer desperation, had taken over. The moral of the story? Never underestimate the lunacy of people with power! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Adding a single thread to a Withof Roll.
Hello Jenny, (and anyone else with an interest here) I'm delighted that the 'J' has progressed as far as the Withof roll - wonderful! As with everything, adding a single thread to a Withof Roll couldn't be easier - when you know how! All you need to do is tie the thread onto a temporary pin which is then placed above the work, preferably so that the bobbin with the thread hangs in line with the edge of the work which is to be rolled. Then the thread is simply included, along with the existing rolled threads, at the designated pin. (Unless there are other considerations, such as colour, I would advise hanging the new thread in an inner position, between the edge of the worked lace and the existing threads for the roll.) The tensioning of the rolling thread will ensure that the added thread is held in place. Note: Do not be tempted to cut off the excess thread, hanging from the temporary pin, until the rolled edge is completely finished off! I do show how to add a single thread at the beginning of a roll in the technical notes, page 140, of my recent book 'Alphabet Inspirations...' the only difference is that, when adding a single thread to an existing roll there is no need to tie a knot. In my previous book, 'Special Effects...' you will find a diagram showing the addition of a single thread on page 64. (In this example, the thread is added to the outer edge to ensure the colour is immediately in position.) For further information on working Withof lace techniques try looking at 'Withof Lace' by Trude v.d.Heijden-Biemans, Yvonne Scheele-Kerkhof and Puck Smelter-Hoekstra, which I have listed in the 'Further Reading' sections of both my books. Unfortunately, when a book draws on a variety of techniques, it is not always possible to include as much information on the other techniques as one would like! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Recommended threads!
The threads I used and recommend for my patterns in 'Alphabet Inspirations...' are Piper's Silks 80/3 (spun silk) and 90/3 (gloss silk). I use threads from both these ranges to increase colour choice. There is a slight difference in their thickness, but not so much that it affects the end result significantly. It should be possible to use Gutermann S303 instead, but it may be necessary to reduce the pricking slightly or add an extra pair if all Gutermann threads are to be substituted, since Gutermann S303 is slightly finer, appears to be more tightly spun and doesn't fill the gaps so effectively. (Note! I have not worked any of the patterns in this book using Gut.S303 simply because there were not enough colours in the range to suit my preference!) The threads I used for most of the pieces in 'Special Effects...' were Gutermann S303 (spun silk). Now that Gutermann no longer have many of the colours available, I suggest using Piper's Silks instead or mixed to suit. Although Piper's Silks are a mite thicker, they should compress sufficiently to obtain an excellent result. I have seen most of the patterns from 'Special Effects' worked in Piper's Silks 80/3 and 90/3 without any adjustment to the pricking size or threads used. The denier equivalent for Piper's Silks: 80/3 = 330 den. 90/3 = 270 den. All relevant thread information will be found at the beginning of both books. I have tried a selection of other threads in other fibres but although the patterns 'worked', I cannot actually recommend using anything other than silk. Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Correction?!
On 14th October Brenda replied to a query from a previous posting from Viv Dewar. Brenda credits me with the words that are actually sections from Viv's original enquiry. In my reply to Viv's query over the threads I use, or have suggested as possible alternatives, I repeated the original query in its entirety in order that anyone else with an interest in my work might fully understand my personal considerations/thoughts. The words quoted in Brenda's comprehensive answer are Viv's - not mine! I hope this rectifies any confusion that may occur. Sandi - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Thread query - Alphabet Inspirations
In a recent posting to the list Viv Dewer wrote very kindly about my recent book, 'Alphabet Inspirations...' but mentioned a query that may be of interest to others, hence the reason why I'm answering the query directly to the list, rather than to her personally - I hope she forgives me! Viv wrote; The book suggests Pipers silks - 90/2 80/3 etc as the correct threads for the prickings as printed. In Sandi's earlier book - Special Effects in Bobbin Lace - the pricking guides say that if you use the Piper's threads you should use the prickings at 100% (ie the same as the Inspirations). This is also the guide for Madeira tanne 50 Gutermann silk thread. Brenda's book says that the Pipers silks recommended have 27-30 threads/cm but that Madeira 50 has 39. Madeira 30 has 29 threads/cm in Brenda's book but Sandi's Special Effects suggest a pricking enlargement to 105% if tanne 30 is used. My question is Are the silk threads squashier when used in bobbin lace so that the extra threads can squeeze themselves into the space or have I totally misunderstood Brenda's work! I thought that where were 99 wraps per cm in Yarn A and the pricking said use yarn B, if yarn B was within a reasonable number of wraps of A it would work and that otherwise you had an adjustment fact or to apply based on 99 X A/B (or 99 X A2/B2 ? - please answer this one too, someone, again!). Viv So..I think the best way I can answer this is to say that when I suggest threads for one of my patterns in a book, I give the exact thread name and type that I have used for the pattern illustrated, so that anyone wishing to make the lace in exactly the same manner to achieve the same effects can do so. However, if other substitutions are made the effects will not be the same..they may even be better! My reasons for choosing the particular threads are many and varied, but based on experience, although when writing a book 'availability' comes pretty high on the list of requirements. I prefer to use silk for its appearance, colour range and strength but above all because it does compress into smaller spaces and also expands to fill gaps where otherwise I would need to increase or decrease the number of pairs in work. Therefore, I choose the threads which will function best within the design as a whole and will cope with all the techniques necessary to work it. In fact, it is because I use silk that some of the techniques were developed. It must be remembered that when the properties of a thread are to be tested, a 'control' has to be used to produce a standard result for all the threads. The results depend upon the testing methods selected. Since I expect my threads to be able to jump through hoops while singing and dancing at the same time, and then to come out smilingit would be unreasonable to expect any thread guide to come up with definitive alternatives. Every type of fibre has its own specific properties, further complicated by the way in which it has been spun. I would suggest using a guide to narrow down the field if it is essential that an alternative has to be found, but then the choice is going to come down to personal preference, coupled with trial and error! There should be no availability problems with the suggested threads for 'Alphabet Inspirations..' but unfortunately Gutermann no longer produce some of the suggested thread colours for 'Special Effects in Bobbin Lace...' However, all is not lost! I have worked out alternative thread suggestions in Piper's Silks, should anyone require them. Remember, nothing is written in tablets of stone! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Sandi Woods methods of working??
I've been off-line for some days now and may be again, due to the madness of redecorating my studio, hence the somewhat belated clarification of my methods of working for those who are interested... .for my lace, I use threads in the same way to describe shape and form as I use paintbrush and paint when I'm painting. When I was approached by Batsford to write 'Special Effects in Bobbin Lace' it was to feature the piece 'Sea-Swirl' which had won their Batsford prize. To this end, I devised a series of patterns with pin by pin instructions, which if followed would enable a lacemaker to cover and more importantly, understand, all the techniques necessary to work Sea-Swirl. Given the constraints of a finite number of pages, preordained by the publisher, this was the most practical way of producing the all the technical information in a workable format. In my view, having taught for many years now, the best way of understanding the application of a technique is to actually experience its use. In 'Special Effects...' the full instructions are provided for those who prefer to work in this way (or for those who simply want to work an exact copy of the motif). When the application of the techniques is fully understood, those required when working on a personal project are more easily chosen. 'Special Effects...' is not just a book of patterns to be worked in sequence, it is a book illustrating, with patterns, the techniques I developed in order to work in a painterly way. My second book, 'Alphabet Inspirations in Coloured Bobbin Lace' (pub BT Batsford, available August 2004) is specifically written to illustrate how to use the techniques to work developed design ideas from shapes, yet still has pin by pin instructions for those who would like them. There is most certainly plenty of 'latitude to develop or do your own thing' in this book, as there was in 'Special Effects...' and will be in my third book, in preparation at the moment. In fact, the exhibition and theme for the talk 'Chinese Whispers' that I gave at Harrogate dealt almost entirely with just that topic. As many of my students will testify, my approach to lacemaking and methods of working are probably some of the most flexible possible, though it may seem hard to believe if one simply looks at the lace, or glances at a book. In a book, most people prefer to have a full set of explicit instructions that they may either choose to use or disregard completely. Nothing is set in tablets of stone, but it must surely be preferable to know that there is at least one method of working a pattern that will ensure it resembles the illustration? It has never been my intention, flattering though it may be, that anyone attempting my patterns should be limited to producing a clone of the original. My hope is that by using my experience and techniques, lacemakers will gain the confidence to go on to create their own original pieces without having to reinvent the wheel each time. That is why I teach. No, the 'revolution' has not stopped, or even slowed down - I'm just as revolting as ever - there's always a mass of other ideas waiting to be developed and played with. I hope my comments clear up some of the confusion which appears to be surrounding my work. The most important part of it all is to be able to enjoy making the lace and achieving the desired end resultit is to this end that I write the books. The techniques are simply the paintbrush. Sandi (.sitting in a corner, surrounded by ladders and general turmoil in sunny Kent, UK.) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] IOLI Freebie pattern.
There may be some disappointed people out there wondering where the pricking and diagrams for the IOLI freebie pattern have been hidden... Unfortunately, when the pattern was added to the website, the file containing the diagrammatic info was missed. I understand the website is still undergoing an update and therefore the absent info will find its way home shortly.. (It wasn't a fiendish plot set to cause confusion and despair!) Sandi Woods (Rochester, Kent UK) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Fw: IOLI Pattern typo!
- Original Message - From: Sandi Woods [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Arachne [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 12:37 PM Subject: IOLI Pattern typo! Ooops! Sorry - I'm not the greatest typist, as is illustrated by the typo in my freebie pattern found on the IOLI Convention 2004 website [EMAIL PROTECTED] : The instruction, after Pin I, should read; T O T B 1 p.pr per row, nearest lightest p.pr to pin just worked, till 13 p.prs remain. This shouldn't cause any real confusion once the lace is actually being worked on the pillow - it simply looks alarming on the page! Once again, apologies all round, the notes had to be typed at twice my normal speed and slipped through the checking net as well.! Sandi Woods (Rochester, UK) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
