date:20051118


Hendrik Riessen wrote:

Also looking at the operators manual for my 230E it states that a 5 speed is 
optional on the 200, 230E, 230CE, 250, 280E and 280CE. Not that any where 
ever officially imported to Australia. Interesting thing is that top speeds 
rating in the owners manual states that a 5 speed W123 will go faster in 4th 
than 5th for example a 230E fitted with 5 speed will according to the 
operators manual do 112 mph in 4th and 105 mph in 5th.


That's true for MOST Mercedes models. 5th gear is an economy gear - 4th 
(usually 1:1) is optimized to the power peak of the engine.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Clicking noises from behind glovebox


Marshall Booth wrote:

Aaron Lam wrote:

Hi all,

My 1987 300D has recently developed this problem, and I'm sure other
124 owners have experienced this as well. On a cold morning after
initial startup, I hear a constant clicking noise from behind the
glovebox that goes away after about 5 minutes. It's definitely ACC
related - there's no clicking noise if the ACC is switched off. My
first guess is the vacuum manifold behind the glovebox - do these go
bad after a while and cause the clicking issue?


Try unplugging the circulation pump (located under the washer water 
reservoir in your car I THINK). When it draws excessive current (yours 
is of an age when they tend to do that) there is a circuit that will 
shut things off as long as there is excessive current being drawn and 
allow it back on when the resistance increases. There are several other 
things that can cause the relay chatter. I'll see if I can find 
references to them. Most of my experience is with 201s (similar but not 
identical to 124s).


Marshall


Unplugging the circulation pump eliminates the relay chatter in '87+ 126 
models (and that system is virtually identical to the 124). I have two 
reports of that. I THINK I've gotten at least one report that it works 
with 124s as well, but can't find it now.


Marshall

--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

Is this a W126?

  Chris

John Peterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Thank you all for your comments- wow, 
what a response!  Here is an update.

The sound can be described as the kind of sound / clunk that one would get 
by taking a rubber mallet and hitting the underside frame of the car while 
driving.  It makes this sound when EITHER wheel hits an uneven patch of 
road.  It is a kind of thump and hollow sound.

Another obversation- the car tracks perfectly, as good as it gets.

I'm going to go ahead and change the sway bar bushing out- they look a bit 
loose. Can I just take the bar off for a test?  The bushings are cheap, but 
take a week to get.

Thank for continued help.  John

John Petesron
'91 300D 2.5 74k
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" 
To: "Mercedes mailing list" 
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

> John Peterson wrote:
>> Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested 
>> that
>> I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, 
>> $30,
>> and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer 
>> says
>> new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get
>> rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber 
>> hard,
>> but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are
>> coming from
>
> There seems to be a rush to condemn the ball joints now. I've NEVER
> experienced "clunks on bumps at low speeds" when the ball joints were
> bad (but if they are REALLY bad they could I suppose). That HAS been a
> consistent presenting symptom with bad sway bar bushings. Bad ball
> joints (as well as bad rear suspension links) do permit the front end to
> seem "nervous" requiring a lot of attention when driving at highway
> speeds. In my experience, ball joints outlast sway bar bushings by at
> least 3:1. Control arm bushings and ball joints usually last AT LEAST
> 200kmi miles (and can last a lot longer if you drive 20+kmi a year).
> Early sway bar bushings however, often failed after 4-6 years and even
> the revised ones might not be expected to last more than 100-150kmi. I
> have revised bushings on two cars, but they don't have even 75kmi on
> them and that's true of MOST people that have replaced the bushings on 
> 124s.
>
> Marshall
> -- 
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> turbo 237kmi
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension, '82 126 300SD

2005-11-18 Thread Hans Neureiter

Never drove the car when new and it seems fine to me. But we all are
creatures of habit.
Abnormal tire wear is not evident, but at the last alignment check a year
ago I was told that the camber at one of the rear wheel is off. Bad subframe
mounts can do that, don't they.
Time to do the whole enchalada.
 On 11/18/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hans Neureiter wrote:
> > My rear end is down about 2 - 3" and getting worse.
> > Looks like I have the motor in the trunk instead of under the hood.
> > I really need to correct this.
> > What do I need to look at ? Rear/front suframe rubber mounts and/or
> spring
> > spacers ?
> > Has anyone done this at home ?
> > Seems that I need a spring compressor and extraction/insertion tools for
> > subframe mounts.
> > Can these be rented and where ?
>
> The rear end sag in a 126 is usually a combination of subframe and
> differential mounts collapsing AND sometimes spring pads as well.
> When they are all replaced, the car comes back up to normal height,
> excessive wear on the inside edge of the rear tires stops and the rear
> tires stop trying to steer the car - and the ride approaches the ride
> when it was new.
>
> Marshall
> --
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
> "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> turbo 237kmi
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Ride height


Gabriel S. wrote:

Did some '87 300D's come with a diffent suspension setups or options? Mine
seems to be higher up than others that i've seen.


Height variability in 124 models is rather common. I have NOT heard of 
many satisfactory resolutions of the problem. Few shops (including 
dealers) have the tools necessary to correctly measure the suspension 
setting. There is LOTS of information in the Technical Data Manual, and 
pages listing proper springs and pads (21 pages just for the 124), but 
the few people I know that have tried to correct height problems have 
been successful whether they tried to do it themselves or farmed the job 
out to a body or repair shop specializing in Mercedes.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension, '82 126 300SD

2005-11-18 Thread Hans Neureiter

Thanks. Found the Stu Ritter write-up. Looks easy enough.

On 11/18/05, Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On Fri, Nov 18, 2005 at 08:32:37AM -0600, Hans Neureiter wrote:
> > My rear end is down about 2 - 3" and getting worse.
> > Looks like I have the motor in the trunk instead of under the hood.
> > I really need to correct this.
> > What do I need to look at ? Rear/front suframe rubber mounts and/or
> spring
> > spacers ?
> > Has anyone done this at home ?
> > Seems that I need a spring compressor and extraction/insertion tools for
> > subframe mounts.
> > Can these be rented and where ?
>
> Shouldn't need a spring compressor, the springs will come down with the
> subframe. There is a stu ritter howto floating around somewhere telling
> how to do this with a threaded rod, a bunch of washers, and a floor
> jack. Search on the web for 126 subframe mount replacement and you should
> find it.
>
> K
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] WAKE UP FOLKS, Euro 85 300D manny tranny

2005-11-18 Thread Hendrik Riessen

I am not sure but I think it is overdrive. Why else put a 5 speed in there? 
My old 81 200 from south Africa has a 4 speed.
Also looking at the operators manual for my 230E it states that a 5 speed is 
optional on the 200, 230E, 230CE, 250, 280E and 280CE. Not that any where 
ever officially imported to Australia. Interesting thing is that top speeds 
rating in the owners manual states that a 5 speed W123 will go faster in 4th 
than 5th for example a 230E fitted with 5 speed will according to the 
operators manual do 112 mph in 4th and 105 mph in 5th.


Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] WAKE UP FOLKS, Euro 85 300D manny tranny



Hendrik Riessen wrote:


I recently pulled a 5 speed getrag box out of a 82 230TE which was a 
english

delivered car. It has a non racing shift pattern.


Overdrive or 1:1 in 5th?

Mitch.

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[MBZ] oil level (or lack of)

2005-11-18 Thread John M McIntosh

After breakfast this morning, an errand, a work related conference  
call,  I was out to fill the washer fluid container in the S since it  
was complaining. Mmm I wonder the 83 (and the S) are both within 1k  
Km here of needing service (aka oil change), when DID I (or anyone)  
look at the oil last in the 83. I know it usually burns < 2 q over  
5000 miles, I can't recall adding any? MMm that 83 doesn't have an  
oil level idiot light, one needs to be a bit more careful here and  
ensure it's checked weekly...


Mmm, check oil, just a smidge on lowest bottom of dip stick, sigh...  
Mutter about wife and kids... However I'll get sheepish looks and  
yells of "that's your responsibility Dad" if I say anything. Mmm I  
wonder if I can add this reponsiblity to the 13 year old's weekly  
chores...


So if you add one liter that brings you up to the lowest notch on the  
dipstick, I'd rather not know that.


Technically that benz sits at less than half way between notches or  
at the lowest notch. Any higher and the oil gets consumed.

Ok, let's add another 1/2 liter for luck.

PS the S I think this time will be converted to 5w40 delvac versus  
0w40 just to lessen the clutter in the garage.  & yes I *usually*  
check the oil and tire pressures weekly but I've been distracted.


John
1983 300TDt  358k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990 300TDt  154k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 169k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)

[MBZ] 300CD

2005-11-18 Thread Donald Snook

I don't remember who said this but somebody said that the 1985 300CD was
the pinnacle of something or other (german engineering or at least great
MB diesel technology).  I do REALLY like the looks of the 300CD and may
even try to find one.  I have a few questions regarding them.  

 

1.  Is the 1985 really that much more desireable because it was the
last year? 
2.  Are there particular things to watch out for on these cars
(1981-85) that is different than the other 123's. 
3.  It seems like when I look at parts prices the 1985 is always
separate from the ~81-84, and the 85 parts seems to be more expensive.
Is this accurate and if so, why?
4.  How do these range in price, given their rarity? 
5.  Is a nice 300CD as hard to find as a nice SDL or a 123 TD?
6.  How cool would it be to have a 1987 300D, a 1987 300SDL, a 1987
300TD (or 1985 300TD), and a 1985 300CD?   
7.  Does anybody really know what time it is? 
8.  Does anybody really care? 
9.  I actually really like Pabst Blue Ribbon. Do you? 

 

 

Donald H. Snook

1992 Olds 98 120K 

1997 Ford Explorer 4X4 95K  (would love to get rid of this ---
h, don't tell my wife it's hers and she loves it)

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread John Peterson


Thank you all for your comments- wow, what a response!  Here is an update.

The sound can be described as the kind of sound / clunk that one would get 
by taking a rubber mallet and hitting the underside frame of the car while 
driving.  It makes this sound when EITHER wheel hits an uneven patch of 
road.  It is a kind of thump and hollow sound.


Another obversation- the car tracks perfectly, as good as it gets.

I'm going to go ahead and change the sway bar bushing out- they look a bit 
loose. Can I just take the bar off for a test?  The bushings are cheap, but 
take a week to get.




Thank for continued help.  John

John Petesron
'91 300D 2.5 74k
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?



John Peterson wrote:
Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested 
that
I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, 
$30,
and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer 
says

new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get
rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber 
hard,

but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are
coming from


There seems to be a rush to condemn the ball joints now. I've NEVER
experienced "clunks on bumps at low speeds" when the ball joints were
bad (but if they are REALLY bad they could I suppose). That HAS been a
consistent presenting symptom with bad sway bar bushings. Bad ball
joints (as well as bad rear suspension links) do permit the front end to
seem "nervous" requiring a lot of attention when driving at highway
speeds. In my experience, ball joints outlast sway bar bushings by at
least 3:1. Control arm bushings and ball joints usually last AT LEAST
200kmi miles (and can last a lot longer if you drive 20+kmi a year).
Early sway bar bushings however, often failed after 4-6 years and even
the revised ones might not be expected to last more than 100-150kmi. I
have revised bushings on two cars, but they don't have even 75kmi on
them and that's true of MOST people that have replaced the bushings on 
124s.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Clicking noises from behind glovebox


Aaron Lam wrote:

Hi all,

My 1987 300D has recently developed this problem, and I'm sure other
124 owners have experienced this as well. On a cold morning after
initial startup, I hear a constant clicking noise from behind the
glovebox that goes away after about 5 minutes. It's definitely ACC
related - there's no clicking noise if the ACC is switched off. My
first guess is the vacuum manifold behind the glovebox - do these go
bad after a while and cause the clicking issue?


Try unplugging the circulation pump (located under the washer water 
reservoir in your car I THINK). When it draws excessive current (yours 
is of an age when they tend to do that) there is a circuit that will 
shut things off as long as there is excessive current being drawn and 
allow it back on when the resistance increases. There are several other 
things that can cause the relay chatter. I'll see if I can find 
references to them. Most of my experience is with 201s (similar but not 
identical to 124s).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension, '82 126 300SD


Hans Neureiter wrote:

My rear end is down about 2 - 3" and getting worse.
Looks like I have the motor in the trunk instead of under the hood.
I really need to correct this.
What do I need to look at ? Rear/front suframe rubber mounts and/or spring
spacers ?
Has anyone done this at home ?
Seems that I need a spring compressor and extraction/insertion tools for
subframe mounts.
Can these be rented and where ?


The rear end sag in a 126 is usually a combination of subframe and 
differential mounts collapsing AND sometimes spring pads as well.
When they are all replaced, the car comes back up to normal height, 
excessive wear on the inside edge of the rear tires stops and the rear 
tires stop trying to steer the car - and the ride approaches the ride 
when it was new.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 6, Issue 124

2005-11-18 Thread ANGELO GIAIMO

Marshall Booth wrote.

There was NO problem with fuel pressure (it's all mechanical) but I
BELIEVE the wastegate is electrical (don't know if it opens or closes
without electricity) and that could drop engine power by 30% if it opened.

===

Marshall,

Maybe it was fine.I was a passenger for that leg and **thought** it was
running poorly. Maybe just being paranoid thinking it was going to leave me
stranded on I-95.

Good to know, thoughthanks!

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

Re: [MBZ] Ride height

My 1983 300TD appears to sit lower in the back when unloaded. I don't really
worry about it because the car is such a pleasure to drive.

 On 11/18/05, Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On Fri, Nov 18, 2005 at 01:44:35PM -0800, Gabriel S. wrote:
> > Did some '87 300D's come with a diffent suspension setups or options?
> Mine
> > seems to be higher up than others that i've seen.
>
> The TDs for some reason have some variation in height, but I haven't
> noticed
> one in the Ds (which usually didn't have the sportline springs and bars
> that
> might lower it a teense). There are a few shims available, however, to
> change
> ride height slightly. Don't forget that fuel load will change ride height
> slightly...
>
> K
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Ride height

2005-11-18 Thread Kevin

On Fri, Nov 18, 2005 at 01:44:35PM -0800, Gabriel S. wrote:
> Did some '87 300D's come with a diffent suspension setups or options? Mine
> seems to be higher up than others that i've seen.

The TDs for some reason have some variation in height, but I haven't noticed
one in the Ds (which usually didn't have the sportline springs and bars that
might lower it a teense). There are a few shims available, however, to change
ride height slightly. Don't forget that fuel load will change ride height
slightly...

K

[MBZ] Ride height

2005-11-18 Thread Gabriel S.

Did some '87 300D's come with a diffent suspension setups or options? Mine
seems to be higher up than others that i've seen.

--
Gabriel Soto
Southern California
1987 300D 230K=-

Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension, '82 126 300SD

2005-11-18 Thread Kevin

On Fri, Nov 18, 2005 at 08:32:37AM -0600, Hans Neureiter wrote:
> My rear end is down about 2 - 3" and getting worse.
> Looks like I have the motor in the trunk instead of under the hood.
> I really need to correct this.
> What do I need to look at ? Rear/front suframe rubber mounts and/or spring
> spacers ?
> Has anyone done this at home ?
> Seems that I need a spring compressor and extraction/insertion tools for
> subframe mounts.
> Can these be rented and where ?

Shouldn't need a spring compressor, the springs will come down with the
subframe. There is a stu ritter howto floating around somewhere telling
how to do this with a threaded rod, a bunch of washers, and a floor
jack. Search on the web for 126 subframe mount replacement and you should
find it.

K

[MBZ] Speaking of my 85

2005-11-18 Thread B Dike

We took the 85 300CD to the San Juans for the weekend, perfect time to visit, 
no traffic, wonderful scenery, no ferry wait, etc.  Car ran great there and 
back at XX MPH with a fresh M1 change and B50.  On the return trip I settled 
back in the drivers seat and twiddled the cruise control which has been dormant 
for a while now.  Heavens to Betsie, it worked!  Turn up the Lionel Richie and 
Duran Duran!

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?
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There seems to be a rush to condemn the ball joints now. I've NEVER 
experienced "clunks on bumps at low speeds" when the ball joints were 
bad (but if they are REALLY bad they could I suppose). That HAS been a 
consistent presenting symptom with bad sway bar bushings.

had the clunk post sway bar bushing replacement, isolated the ball joints with 
water test, changed the ball joints, no more clunk.

Just my experience, YMMV

CHris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  John Peterson wrote:
> Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested that 
> I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, $30, 
> and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer says 
> new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get 
> rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber hard, 
> but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are 
> coming from

There seems to be a rush to condemn the ball joints now. I've NEVER 
experienced "clunks on bumps at low speeds" when the ball joints were 
bad (but if they are REALLY bad they could I suppose). That HAS been a 
consistent presenting symptom with bad sway bar bushings. Bad ball 
joints (as well as bad rear suspension links) do permit the front end to 
seem "nervous" requiring a lot of attention when driving at highway 
speeds. In my experience, ball joints outlast sway bar bushings by at 
least 3:1. Control arm bushings and ball joints usually last AT LEAST 
200kmi miles (and can last a lot longer if you drive 20+kmi a year). 
Early sway bar bushings however, often failed after 4-6 years and even 
the revised ones might not be expected to last more than 100-150kmi. I 
have revised bushings on two cars, but they don't have even 75kmi on 
them and that's true of MOST people that have replaced the bushings on 124s.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300S

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

agree on the "quick repair" - another list member  reported months back on a 
relative who kept injecting grease until the  joint broke - not something you 
want happening at any speed above, oh  15 mph. Luckily for the injector in 
question, the joint broke while  backing out of a driveway.

  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
>  if the ball joint boot is split (not always very obvious), you can  diagnose 
> it by hosing the living hell out if it with a garden hose (do  one at a time, 
> starting with the lower)...go over your normal "clunking  bumps and 
> dips"...if still clunking, continue the process until you  find that you have 
> located the bad ball joint OR that it's NOT the ball  joints. I would esp. 
> recommend this if you have noticed that the  clunking is less or gone during 
> heavy rains.
>   
> It  works, I did it. Not my idea, Henry Kolesnik gets the credit...who I  
> have not seen on the list for a long time...too bad. Maybe we scared  him off 
> at the OkieQ.
>   

ONCE a ball joint boot is split REPLACE the ball joint - don't pass go - 
don't collect $200 - just replace the ball joint. NEVER just replace the 
boot. Once the boot has failed, the joint is ruined. Ball joints are 
cheap ($25-35) and after you've had one fail (front wheel almost 
horizontal on the ground is NOT pretty), you realize just how foolish it 
is to NOT replace one that's questionable. Almost all ball joint 
failures in 124/201s start with squeaks on dry days when the front end 
is moved up or down OR with the steering being abnormally stiff (like 
the power steering is getting weak)!

When I was learning to diagnose possible ball joint failures I did 
inject grease/oil into a ball joint boot (it quieted the joint before 
I'd driven 200 yards) and sealed the hole with silicone RTV. I drove the 
car for several months before I replaced the joints, but I would NOT 
recommend doing that.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 13:22:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?
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no, if it CLUNKS, it MIGHT be the ball joints.  Could be other things too. The 
water test helps to eliminate the ball  joint possibility.

  Chris

TimothyPilgrim <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Are you saying that if a car squeaks 
in the front when the moves up
and down (think

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

2005-11-18 Thread B Dike

Todd,
   
  Where are you located?  If you are in the Seattle area, you and I could fix 
every one of these things in an afternoon after a modest parts order to Rusty 
and a quick stop at the Benz Friendz used parts warehouse.  You can fix the odo 
with Crazy Glue - I did 2 of them myself.
   
  BTW, I think the 85 300CD is the pinnacle of Mercedes diesel production, but 
nobody should expect any vehicle of that vintage to be 'daily driver ready',  I 
don't car how much it cost or who the PO was and what he did.  Rubber rots.  
Bulbs burn out.  Metal wears. Plastic decays.  Lube drys.  Stuff breaks. Things 
on a 20 year old car will need regular fixing, period.  And I mean fixing, not 
maintainence.  My 85 is a cream puff but requires regular TLC to keep it ready 
for the wife to drive.  The nice thing is that the 123s are designed with 
obsessive Teutonic precision to be fixed, not throwaway like an old Ford.  
Enjoy fixing it or get rid of it.
   
  Regarding price, it is raining Benz diesels out here in Seattle.  Plenty of 
great 123s and 115s to be had for under $1000 with no rust, but typically all 
carboned up with valves out of adjustment, weak vacuum, bad thermostats, etc, 
but nothing that the folks on this list couldn't tell you how to fix yourself.
   
  Cheers, 
   
  Bruce
  
"Smith, Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Hello,

I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert 
advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions. About a month 
ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily 
driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel. Unfortunately, neither of 
these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my 
biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during 
the sale.

This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds 
that I have in it. My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or 
believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles. I 
want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision. Yes, I know that 
this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being 
burned and this is the only way to break the cycle. The pictures are available 
at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002

The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially 
considering its age. There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers over 
the bumpers still seem good. It may appear to have rust along the trunk lid but 
that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking at the 
pictures. I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm that 
statement. The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the 
passenger's door. There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that 
is sprung from the trim.

The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the 
driver's seat. There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat 
that looks like it needs some attention. I believe that the interior pictures 
cover the interior pretty well. If anyone needs a better picture or can make a 
suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to 
ask me.

Good points:

1) Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate speeds from 
Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia.
2) Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception.
3) Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C.
4) Front windows work howbeit slowly. The rear power windows do not retract, PO 
says that switches are bad but motors are good. (Motor condition not verified)
5) Rides pretty good for a car of its age.
6) My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good but both need 
attention.
7) It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run for a while 
longer.
8) Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread.

Bad points:

1) Serious vacuum issues: Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic Transmission 
shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, Cruise Control works but will not 
hold speed for long.
2) Extremely poor acceleration: This is my first diesel and first MB, so this 
might be user error. When at a light, I have to almost stand on the accelerator 
to get it to crawl through a light. It takes several car lengths to accelerator 
to 20MPH and then it seems to run better. It will reach 70+ MPH but it 
doesn't't like to hold it. Letting off the accelerator seems to have a large 
drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately.
3) Power steering is inoperable. PO indicates that power steering pump leaks 
profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley. I have taken pictures of belt 
and pulley and they are with the car but not installed.
4) Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work. The Title says 248K miles but 
the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 mi

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?


TimothyPilgrim wrote:

Are you saying that if a car squeaks in the front when the moves up
and down (think of a speed hump) that means it's the ball joint? How
about the suspension?


I'm saying that squeaking USUALLY involves ball joints. Then I jack up 
the car and try to lift the wheel using a LONG bar and if there's 
detectable movement, the ball joint needs to be replaced. Once you've 
felt it, it's easy to detect the ball moving excessively within it's 
socket. I can't otherwise describe it.


Every car I've owned that squeaked (3 201s), had bad ball joints (maybe 
I was just lucky). Not all bad ball joints squeak (two of mine didn't)! 
Four mechanics I know (that have been working on Mercedes for a combined 
total of 100 years) agree that when the front end squeaks, USUALLY the 
ball joints are bad - could be other things also - but the ball joints 
are usually bad. That what they check first and USUALLY the ball joints 
are bad.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Trunk lock actuator on vacation ('93 W124)


TimothyPilgrim wrote:

My door locks, tailgate included, all work once the car powers up, but
won't after the car has sat for a while without the engine running. I
figure there's a leak in the system somewhere, but don't relish the
though of finding out where.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby


The central locking system in the 123 is operated by engine vacuum and 
is very sensitive to even slight leaks (that are often modulated by 
temperature/humidity). Most common presenting symptom is that the engine 
shuts off slowly or doesn't shut off - and that may change if the car is 
locked or unlocked. Not difficult to troubleshoot with vacuum diagrams 
, 
a MityVac and some golf tees. The 124/126/201 central locking systems 
are powered by an electric vacuum pump and seem to fail FAR less often 
(they may leak just as frequently, but small leaks simply are NOT a 
problem). Engine vacuum is not involved, but the actual system is 
otherwise rather similar.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Trunk lock actuator on vacation ('93 W124)


TimothyPilgrim wrote:

My door locks, tailgate included, all work once the car powers up, but
won't after the car has sat for a while without the engine running. I
figure there's a leak in the system somewhere, but don't relish the
though of finding out where.
  


Mine's the same way.  It's got a slow leak somewhere, but I'm too lazy 
to find it.  Oddly, the situation has improved, some.  At first the 
vacuum would bleed down after a couple hours.  Now it'll hold enough to 
operate the locks for as long as eight hours, sometimes.  It had gone 
for a long time with a bad vacuum leak that made the whole locking 
system inoperable.  I wonder if, now that there's proper vacuum in the 
system again, the rubber connections are getting sucked back into shape 
and sealing better?  I think the cold weather helps, too.

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

Are you saying that if a car squeaks in the front when the moves up
and down (think of a speed hump) that means it's the ball joint? How
about the suspension?

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/18/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Christopher McCann wrote:
> > if the ball joint boot is split (not always very  obvious), you can 
> > diagnose it by hosing the living hell out if it with  a garden hose (do one 
> > at a time, starting with the lower)...go over  your normal "clunking bumps 
> > and dips"...if still clunking, continue the  process until you find that 
> > you have located the bad ball joint OR that  it's NOT the ball joints. I 
> > would esp. recommend this if you have  noticed that the clunking is less or 
> > gone during heavy rains.
> >
> >   It works, I did it. Not my idea, Henry Kolesnik gets the credit...who I  
> > have not seen on the list for a long time...too bad. Maybe we scared  him 
> > off at the OkieQ.
> >
>
> ONCE a ball joint boot is split REPLACE the ball joint - don't pass go -
> don't collect $200 - just replace the ball joint. NEVER just replace the
> boot. Once the boot has failed, the joint is ruined. Ball joints are
> cheap ($25-35) and after you've had one fail (front wheel almost
> horizontal on the ground is NOT pretty), you realize just how foolish it
> is to NOT replace one that's questionable. Almost all ball joint
> failures in 124/201s start with squeaks on dry days when the front end
> is moved up or down OR with the steering being abnormally stiff (like
> the power steering is getting weak)!
>
> When I was learning to diagnose possible ball joint failures I did
> inject grease/oil into a ball joint boot (it quieted the joint before
> I'd driven 200 yards) and sealed the hole with silicone RTV. I drove the
> car for several months before I replaced the joints, but I would NOT
> recommend doing that.
>
> Marshall
> --
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> turbo 237kmi
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Trunk lock actuator on vacation ('93 W124)

My door locks, tailgate included, all work once the car powers up, but
won't after the car has sat for a while without the engine running. I
figure there's a leak in the system somewhere, but don't relish the
though of finding out where.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/18/05, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Lee Levitt wrote:
> > I just realized that my trunk *should* be locking/unlocking with the
> > driver's door. Well, it's not.
> >
> > Other locks operate as expected.
> >
> > What should I be looking at? Disconnected line or broken mechanism?
> >
>
> Most likely it's a bad or disconnected vacuum pod.  This is by far the
> easiest pod to get to -- just pop off the little plastic cover on the
> rear wall of the trunk.  You can hook your MightyVac up and observe the
> lock rod, which just interposes itself between the button and the latch
> mechanism to unlock and withdraws to lock.  This is easiest if you climb
> into the trunk and sit there, facing the rear.  Tinker with it a little
> and you'll see how it works.
>
> Keep in mind that the trunk lock has *three* positions.  There's one
> position where the vacuum pod has no effect, and only the key will open
> it; a middle position where the trunk is locked and unlocked by vacuum;
> and a spring-loaded position to let you get into the trunk while the
> vacuum pod is locked.
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985

2005-11-18 Thread kevin kraly


a very interesting post about a car i've always flirted with getting.

Just a few days ago, I spotted an Olds Delta 88 diesel, "Grandma's car" for 
$3998.  The good thing was that it only had 70K miles on it.  If it had the 
improved head bolts, it could be a good car for a while.  It even had the 
full vinyl top, old school to the MAXX!


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon, still without an MB diesel

[MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985 some some MB diesel content

2005-11-18 Thread Donald Snook

Todd Smith wrote:

 

"There are plenty of people on the Olds Diesel list with 100K+ and some
200K+ vehicles.  Certainly nothing like this list where every second
vehicle rolled off the Ark but it is still impressive for vehicles
everyone just knows are "junk" " 

 

 

I used to be a Service Manager at an Oldsmobile and Honda dealership.
Nearly all of the technicians had been there since before 1979 (some
before 1969), and all of them, with one exception, described the old gm
diesels as junk. However, none of them knew anything about them. Someone
on here mentioned that GM was not that good at offering much training on
diesels. I totally agree.  The one technician that liked these old GM
diesels had actually gone to a special GM diesel tech school to work on
these.  He liked them so much he had two 98 Regency diesels.  One was an
82 and the other was an 83.  He loved them both. He did admit that the
intake were lousy. He just got used to replacing them. I think he also
kept an extra injection pump handy.  Of course, in the late 80's you
could buy one of these cars for a song.  I think he bought a few of them
and parted them out keeping things like the IP on hand. He was a little
bit strange, though.  He poured a quart of tranny fluid in his tank
every time he filled up, and whenever he changed the fuel filters he
filled them up with tranny fluid.  

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

Oh for sure. In fact, said Bro claims the cup was styrofoam, but I've
tried to convince him otherwise. It couldn't have been since gasoline
with dissolve the stuff on contact. There's a reason some people wash
their greasy engine parts in gasoline. There's also a reason that said
people are quite surprised when their garage blows up.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/18/05, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> TimothyPilgrim wrote:
> > Yeah, my bro does that. But then, he's bought $0.50 of gas in a paper
> > cup before too.
> >
>
> A friend once saw a group of guys try to fill up a styrofoam cooler with
> gas so they could take it back to their car.  He said the stream of
> gasoline from the nozzle hit the bottom of the cooler and went right
> through without stopping. ;)  I think I would have fallen over laughing
> if I'd been there.
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Water in the trunk


Marshall Booth wrote:
If the water is dripping off of the hinges, the water probably isn't 
likely coming in around the truck seals (and certainly NOT the tail 
light seals or the filler pipe seal), but from above - like around the 
rear window.


To be honest, I'm not sure if it's dripping down from the hinges to 
begin with, or if it's just gotten so humid in the trunk from the 
standing water that the condensation on the trunk lid runs down the 
hinges when I open it.  I looked closely today and saw water marks in 
the dust around the tail lights, so I'm going to start there.

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

Christopher McCann wrote:

if the ball joint boot is split (not always very obvious), you can diagnose it by hosing
the living hell out if it with a garden hose (do one at a time, starting with the
lower)...go over your normal "clunking bumps and dips"...if still clunking,
continue the process until you find that you have located the bad ball joint OR that
it's NOT the ball joints. I would esp. recommend this if you have noticed that the
clunking is less or gone during heavy rains.

It works, I did it. Not my idea, Henry Kolesnik gets the credit...who I have not seen on the list for a long time...too bad. Maybe we scared him off at the OkieQ.

ONCE a ball joint boot is split REPLACE the ball joint - don't pass go -
don't collect $200 - just replace the ball joint. NEVER just replace the
boot. Once the boot has failed, the joint is ruined. Ball joints are
cheap ($25-35) and after you've had one fail (front wheel almost
horizontal on the ground is NOT pretty), you realize just how foolish it
is to NOT replace one that's questionable. Almost all ball joint
failures in 124/201s start with squeaks on dry days when the front end
is moved up or down OR with the steering being abnormally stiff (like
the power steering is getting weak)!

When I was learning to diagnose possible ball joint failures I did
inject grease/oil into a ball joint boot (it quieted the joint before
I'd driven 200 yards) and sealed the hole with silicone RTV. I drove the
car for several months before I replaced the joints, but I would NOT
recommend doing that.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Trunk lock actuator on vacation ('93 W124)


Lee Levitt wrote:

I just realized that my trunk *should* be locking/unlocking with the
driver's door. Well, it's not.

Other locks operate as expected.

What should I be looking at? Disconnected line or broken mechanism?
  


Most likely it's a bad or disconnected vacuum pod.  This is by far the 
easiest pod to get to -- just pop off the little plastic cover on the 
rear wall of the trunk.  You can hook your MightyVac up and observe the 
lock rod, which just interposes itself between the button and the latch 
mechanism to unlock and withdraws to lock.  This is easiest if you climb 
into the trunk and sit there, facing the rear.  Tinker with it a little 
and you'll see how it works.


Keep in mind that the trunk lock has *three* positions.  There's one 
position where the vacuum pod has no effect, and only the key will open 
it; a middle position where the trunk is locked and unlocked by vacuum; 
and a spring-loaded position to let you get into the trunk while the 
vacuum pod is locked.

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?


TimothyPilgrim wrote:

Yeah, my bro does that. But then, he's bought $0.50 of gas in a paper
cup before too.
  


A friend once saw a group of guys try to fill up a styrofoam cooler with 
gas so they could take it back to their car.  He said the stream of 
gasoline from the nozzle hit the bottom of the cooler and went right 
through without stopping. ;)  I think I would have fallen over laughing 
if I'd been there.

[MBZ] Trunk lock actuator on vacation ('93 W124)

2005-11-18 Thread Lee Levitt

I just realized that my trunk *should* be locking/unlocking with the
driver's door. Well, it's not.

Other locks operate as expected.

What should I be looking at? Disconnected line or broken mechanism?

Thanks!

Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbodiesel 179K

Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985


Smith, Todd wrote:

The diesel Fiero was constructed by a list member who had an older diesel Olds 
with a smashed front end and V6 Fiero that had a ailing engine.  It bolted 
right up to the engine cradle on the Fiero and only a few mods like making sure 
that all of the accessories didn't protrude too far to keep the deck lid from 
closing.
  


Maybe if *all* the Fieros had been diesels, they wouldn't have caught 
fire quite so easily. ;)  I've heard it claimed that over half of the 
"Iron Duke"-powered Fieros eventually burned.

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

Yeah, my bro does that. But then, he's bought $0.50 of gas in a paper
cup before too.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/18/05, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> TimothyPilgrim wrote:
> > Surely you could refuel without shutting down the engine?
> >
>
> Depends on how attentive the station attendant is.  It's against the
> rules at most stations, and I've seen some shut down the pump if you
> tried to fill up with the engine running.  Others don't care.  I've seen
> people pumping gas while smoking a cigarette, before.

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Lee Levitt


Hey, good news. I've got bad sway bar bushings too!

I'm going to take this opportunity to upgrade my sway bars to a pair of
Sportsline bars...

Wonder if they make a Sportsline central locking system (my trunk doesn't
lock/unlock with the driver's door...)

Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbodiesel 179K

Chris writes:
> 
> you can try the "water test" on the ball  joints...never 
> hurts and costs nothing. That's how I diagnosed my  
> clunk...but that was at about 195K miles
>   
>   Chris
> 
> Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  John Peterson wrote:
> > Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, 
> someone suggested 
> > that I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are 
> > cheap, $30, and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the 
> > clunk (dealer says new control arms and bushings but I 
> doubt this at 
> > 74k) I am trying to get rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway 
> > bushings?  I found the rubber hard, but not rock hard.  It is very 
> > hard to tell where front end sounds are coming from
> 
> Sway bar bushing failures were VERY common in '80s 124s - 
> usually at between 50-100kmi (I've not driven more than two 
> '90s 124s and the were cherry). The bushings were revised 
> (don't know when) but the new style will fail too, just not 
> quite as soon. If you drive slowly over an uneven surface (a 
> slightly uneven parking lot) at about 10-15 mph, they will 
> clunk/rattle when  bad. I know of NO way to describe a bad 
> one except by the noise that the ones I've heard have made. 
> You could find a mechanic that has done a hundred of them - I 
> expect he can look at 'em and tell you if they are bad.
> 
> Bad control arm bushings in 201/124s never made that noise 
> when driving slowly over uneven surfaces in the cars I drove.
> 
> You MAY have bad control arm bushings, but I don't think they 
> are making the noise that I think you are describing.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
>Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, 
> '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: 
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, 
> "One Banger"
>   
> -
>  Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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> 
>

Re: [MBZ] Range


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

<>

He has a two gallon bladder, then?
  


Maybe *this* is why Mercedes cars don't have cup holders!  If you let 
yourself become dehydrated, you can drive farther without stopping.

Re: [MBZ] wtf?


andrew strasfogel wrote:

Is the 300 SD engine fully interchangeable with all the models listed?



Can't be used with an '85 transmission/torque converter on any 123/126 
chassis (problem coupling the new tranny and converter to the older 
engine). Probably will exchange with all the other turbodiesels but 
MIGHT present some challenges in 116 chassis cars or an '81 300TD 
because different control/modulation system of the 722.1 series 
transmission as opposed to the later 722.3 series transmissions. Not 
sure about AC issues. Doesn't have provisions for the leveling system 
pump used on ALL of the TDs.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

if the ball joint boot is split (not always very  obvious), you can diagnose it 
by hosing the living hell out if it with  a garden hose (do one at a time, 
starting with the lower)...go over  your normal "clunking bumps and dips"...if 
still clunking, continue the  process until you find that you have located the 
bad ball joint OR that  it's NOT the ball joints. I would esp. recommend this 
if you have  noticed that the clunking is less or gone during heavy rains.
  
  It works, I did it. Not my idea, Henry Kolesnik gets the credit...who I  have 
not seen on the list for a long time...too bad. Maybe we scared  him off at the 
OkieQ.
  
  Chris

Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher typeth:

"you can try the "water test" on the ball  joints..."

Water test?

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 143K
Litchfield Park, AZ

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 11:51:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"
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Wow. Thanks for the info. Right, we can't  definitively deduce poor mileage 
from this, but I would not be  surprised if this is a big piece of the puzzle.
  
  Chris

John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> crappy post Katria fuel and funky odo have been my  pet theories as
> to why my mpgs have gone down recently too (on the SD).  Not cold

A few days after the hurricane the EPA came out with relaxed regulations 
for diesel and gasoline as a temporary measure so everyone could get 
fuel ASAP.  Gasoline volatility requirements were relaxed and diesel 
sulfer requirements were relaxed.  Dunno how long the "temporary" 
regulations were supposed to last (IIRC a month or so) or if that can 
even change you're mileage

I've been getting horrible fuel mileage (17), but I think that there is 
a slight possibility of it being the fuel leaking from the IP and an 
injector ;)

G'luck with it!

John
'79 300SD

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search

Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985

There are plenty of people on the Olds Diesel list with 100K+ and some 200K+ 
vehicles.  Certainly nothing like this list where every second vehicle rolled 
off the Ark but it is still impressive for vehicles everyone just knows are 
"junk"

Todd Smith

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Rentfro
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 12:10
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985


Excellent post...

My dad had a '75 (?) Chevy Silverado (if that what the loaded model was in 
those days) with the diesel in it and it was great. It ran like mad and it 
was the only one around so it was quite the attention getter. That, and my 
bud's dad's '68 200D were my first diesel experiences and #2 was in my 
blood.
Knowing how my dad's pickup rocked, my soon to be in-laws bought a '76 
Cutlass Diesel and drove that puppy all over God's Green Acre...I think it 
had 275K on it when my stupid brother-in-law was driving hammered and plowed 
into a dude...who was stopped at a DUI check point. Brilliant!

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 143K
Litchfiel Park, AZ

Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985

Hello Gary,

With proper aftermarket fasteners, the GM 5.7L and 4.3L diesels are as reliable 
as any other diesel and they tend to be a little bit underpowered but simple 
modifications like proper exhaust and defeating EGR can make a big difference.

The diesel Fiero was constructed by a list member who had an older diesel Olds 
with a smashed front end and V6 Fiero that had a ailing engine.  It bolted 
right up to the engine cradle on the Fiero and only a few mods like making sure 
that all of the accessories didn't protrude too far to keep the deck lid from 
closing.

I am on the list and I was able to buy a hulked out 1980 Chevy heavy half-ton 
pickup with the 5.7L but it is just an engine and frame.  It is worth even less 
then my 300CD.
Todd Smith

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Hurst
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 11:47
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985


a very interesting post about a car i've always flirted with getting.

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with failed charging sys?


ANGELO GIAIMO wrote:

Oops.Yes, the car is the infamous 1990 350SDL..



There was NO problem with fuel pressure (it's all mechanical) but I 
BELIEVE the wastegate is electrical (don't know if it opens or closes 
without electricity) and that could drop engine power by 30% if it opened.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

2005-11-18 Thread John Robbins


Christopher McCann wrote:

crappy post Katria fuel and funky odo have been my  pet theories as
to why my mpgs have gone down recently too (on the SD).  Not cold


A few days after the hurricane the EPA came out with relaxed regulations 
for diesel and gasoline as a temporary measure so everyone could get 
fuel ASAP.  Gasoline volatility requirements were relaxed and diesel 
sulfer requirements were relaxed.  Dunno how long the "temporary" 
regulations were supposed to last (IIRC a month or so) or if that can 
even change you're mileage


I've been getting horrible fuel mileage (17), but I think that there is 
a slight possibility of it being the fuel leaking from the IP and an 
injector ;)


G'luck with it!

John
'79 300SD

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

you can try the "water test" on the ball  joints...never hurts and costs 
nothing. That's how I diagnosed my  clunk...but that was at about 195K miles

  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  John Peterson wrote:
> Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested that 
> I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, $30, 
> and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer says 
> new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get 
> rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber hard, 
> but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are 
> coming from

Sway bar bushing failures were VERY common in '80s 124s - usually at 
between 50-100kmi (I've not driven more than two '90s 124s and the were 
cherry). The bushings were revised (don't know when) but the new style 
will fail too, just not quite as soon. If you drive slowly over an 
uneven surface (a slightly uneven parking lot) at about 10-15 mph, they 
will clunk/rattle when  bad. I know of NO way to describe a bad one 
except by the noise that the ones I've heard have made. You could find a 
mechanic that has done a hundred of them - I expect he can look at 'em 
and tell you if they are bad.

Bad control arm bushings in 201/124s never made that noise when driving 
slowly over uneven surfaces in the cars I drove.

You MAY have bad control arm bushings, but I don't think they are making 
the noise that I think you are describing.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?
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Christopher typeth:

"you can try the "water test" on the ball  joints..."

Water test?

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 143K
Litchfield Park, AZ

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

Sounds like what Todd needs is a group of local MBZ afficianodoes to
pay him a visit and get him running right.

Tim (who spells a goode as Dan Quaile)
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/18/05, Smith, Todd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Tony,
>
> I have no evidence that the master cylinder has been recently replaced.  As 
> several others on this list have mentioned, the PO ran the car into the 
> ground and then dumped it.  I had purchased the car to replace my gas car and 
> as a biodiesel candidate but even though the repairs are likely inexpensive; 
> the time and parts cost are still likely to exceed what I can afford right 
> now.
>
> I believe that this is a short term bump and I should be able to obtain 
> another beater next year but right now getting through the end of the year is 
> the goal and everything else has to be secondary to that.
>
> Regretfully,
>
> Todd Smith
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?


John Peterson wrote:
Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested that 
I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, $30, 
and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer says 
new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get 
rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber hard, 
but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are 
coming from


Sway bar bushing failures were VERY common in '80s 124s - usually at 
between 50-100kmi (I've not driven more than two '90s 124s and the were 
cherry). The bushings were revised (don't know when) but the new style 
will fail too, just not quite as soon. If you drive slowly over an 
uneven surface (a slightly uneven parking lot) at about 10-15 mph, they 
will clunk/rattle when  bad. I know of NO way to describe a bad one 
except by the noise that the ones I've heard have made. You could find a 
mechanic that has done a hundred of them - I expect he can look at 'em 
and tell you if they are bad.


Bad control arm bushings in 201/124s never made that noise when driving 
slowly over uneven surfaces in the cars I drove.


You MAY have bad control arm bushings, but I don't think they are making 
the noise that I think you are describing.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Tranny Mounts

2005-11-18 Thread l02turner

So, with 285k on the original transmission mounts, I'd be well advised to 
change it as PM even if I'm not having specific problems?


They're probably not too expensive and hopefully not too difficult to 
change?  I would think that almost 300k (the odo was broken for a while) and 
almost 30 years on the chassis, it's time ---

on a 123.123.12.050680

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)

A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tranny Mounts



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


In a message dated 11/17/2005 5:35:03 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Other  than looking for visible damage, is there a way to confirm tranny
mounts  are good/bad??



Chuck just changed his.  He may have something to contribute.   Common
symptoms are a banging noise coming from the trans area when shifting 
gears at

heavy throttle, and vibrations you can feel as you pass over a swooping
depression in the road which generates down force on the mount (though 
this  could be
the center mount drive shaft bearing or even the differential center 
mount.


Removing the mount should reveal metal to metal contact.


I've experience a bang when there is a sudden load change, or vibration
when accelerating/decelerating, but in each case there was NOTHING that
was visible until the mount had been removed (and even then, the flaw
may NOT be apparent). In one case (8-9 year old '87 300TD with about
100kmi on it ) it was a soft clunk as the car slowed almost to a stop in
"drive" (didn't do it if I slipped it into neutral). I could see NOTHING
wrong with the old mount, but a new one cured it. I would NEVER have
suspected the transmission mount, but a German Mercedes trained mechanic
with 40 years experience said, "ZAT IST DEE TROUBLE!"

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

Hello Tony,

I have no evidence that the master cylinder has been recently replaced.  As 
several others on this list have mentioned, the PO ran the car into the ground 
and then dumped it.  I had purchased the car to replace my gas car and as a 
biodiesel candidate but even though the repairs are likely inexpensive; the 
time and parts cost are still likely to exceed what I can afford right now.

I believe that this is a short term bump and I should be able to obtain another 
beater next year but right now getting through the end of the year is the goal 
and everything else has to be secondary to that.

Regretfully,

Todd Smith

Re: [MBZ] Tranny Mounts


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
In a message dated 11/17/2005 5:35:03 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


Other  than looking for visible damage, is there a way to confirm tranny 
mounts  are good/bad??




Chuck just changed his.  He may have something to contribute.   Common 
symptoms are a banging noise coming from the trans area when shifting  gears at 
heavy throttle, and vibrations you can feel as you pass over a swooping  
depression in the road which generates down force on the mount (though this  could be 
the center mount drive shaft bearing or even the differential center  mount.
 
Removing the mount should reveal metal to metal contact.


I've experience a bang when there is a sudden load change, or vibration 
when accelerating/decelerating, but in each case there was NOTHING that 
was visible until the mount had been removed (and even then, the flaw 
may NOT be apparent). In one case (8-9 year old '87 300TD with about 
100kmi on it ) it was a soft clunk as the car slowed almost to a stop in 
"drive" (didn't do it if I slipped it into neutral). I could see NOTHING 
wrong with the old mount, but a new one cured it. I would NEVER have 
suspected the transmission mount, but a German Mercedes trained mechanic 
with 40 years experience said, "ZAT IST DEE TROUBLE!"


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"


andrew strasfogel wrote:

1) timing chain and rails were replaced at 122K. Now I'm at 267K
 2) Odometer was repaired once about 100K miles ago.
 3) Valves were adjusted within the past 10K miles.



Timing chain life is seldom LESS than 200kmi (should about be double 
that if you use Mobil synthetics) unless you don't change the oil when 
it's dirty!


That the speedometer was worked on a few years ago does NOT insure it's 
accuracy now. You need to measure it. A road with mileage markers is 
good, but it's also helpful to know just how far it is to work and back 
(or some other usual route).


Valve adjustment makes only a small difference in fuel economy until 
they get WAY out.


The most common causes of poor fuel economy I've seen reported are poor 
fuel quality, leaky fuel (or return) lines, low tire pressure, slipping 
odometer drive, low engine operating temperature (below 85 deg. C.). All 
of the other engine factors (valves, injectors, timing, poor 
compression, etc.) will contribute, but they tend to be minor 
contributors and they almost all present other symptoms (rough idle, 
noise, poor starting, etc.).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] LWB 123 picture

2005-11-18 Thread George Gregory

On 11/18/05 9:16 AM, "BillR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> There must be something of a story with that one.  It looks like a great
> car.  Where can I get some info on it?
> BillR
> Jacksonville FL  

You gotta ask the "Mercedes Martha Stewart" who has owned it for the past
few years.
http://buymbparts.com/forum/member.php?u=166

__
GG

Re: [MBZ] wtf?

2005-11-18 Thread Mitch Haley

andrew strasfogel wrote:
> 
> Is the 300 SD engine fully interchangeable with all the models listed?

The block and head should interchange with 123, 116, and 126 617s.
Some things, like manifolds, oil filter housings, motor mounts, 
a/c compressors, alternators, etc may be different. I think
the 617 oil pans are all the same, but I'm not sure of that either.

Re: [MBZ] wtf?

Is the 300 SD engine fully interchangeable with all the models listed?


 On 11/18/05, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Craig McCluskey wrote:
> > The only thing that looks amiss is the cylinderical thing with the two
> red
> > rings on the passenger side of the engine. A K&N air filter?
> >
>
> That or similar.
> Cool air intake (CAI) was mentioned as one of the features.
> "Hot underhood air intake" would be more appropriate.
> Don't these people know that CAI draws air from the cowl,
> fender, or front of the car?
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985

2005-11-18 Thread Bob Rentfro


Excellent post...

My dad had a '75 (?) Chevy Silverado (if that what the loaded model was in 
those days) with the diesel in it and it was great. It ran like mad and it 
was the only one around so it was quite the attention getter. That, and my 
bud's dad's '68 200D were my first diesel experiences and #2 was in my 
blood.
Knowing how my dad's pickup rocked, my soon to be in-laws bought a '76 
Cutlass Diesel and drove that puppy all over God's Green Acre...I think it 
had 275K on it when my stupid brother-in-law was driving hammered and plowed 
into a dude...who was stopped at a DUI check point. Brilliant!


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 143K
Litchfiel Park, AZ

- Original Message - 
From: "TimothyPilgrim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985



Great post Todd! Very informative.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/18/05, Smith, Todd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hello,

This is one area that I know a little something about since I have 
followed these diesels for years.  In the early 70's, GM was looking at 
worsening fuel prices and their existing




___
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Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

No.

On 11/17/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Is it possible something is wrong with your fuel guage and you really
> still have plenty of fuel left in it?
>
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>
> > My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
> > over the last few years. It runs fine, there are no fuel leaks to speak
> of,
> > and I haven't changed my driving habits. I had been driving it in "2" at
> > Marshall's recommendation, but thought this might be causing the decline
> in
> > fuel economy so switched back to "D" around town.
> > Makes zero difference.
> > When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to
> drive
> > up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100
> miles
> > LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19
> mpg.
> > I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in
> fuel
> > consumption. Best I ever got was 27 on the highway but until a couple
> years
> > ago I faithfully averaged 22-24 during the non-winter seasons, mixed
> > driving.
> > I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this
> be
> > addressed?
> > Thanks in advance,
> > 1983 300 TD
> > 267 K miles
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

1) timing chain and rails were replaced at 122K. Now I'm at 267K
 2) Odometer was repaired once about 100K miles ago.
 3) Valves were adjusted within the past 10K miles.

 On 11/17/05, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> First, unless you've fixed it already, it's somewhat likely the
> odometer is slipping and not recording the milage correctly.
>
> Second, you very likely have a worn timing chain unless it's been
> replaced.
>
> Fix the odometer, replace the timing chain, do a valve adjust (or valve
> job if the valves aren't tight in the guides, you're about due for one
> of those, too), and you will be back up in the correct milage range.
>
> Peter
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

I like that one best of all! Wouldn't it be great to blame it on the
odometer.

On 11/17/05, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> don't forget to test the odo with a GPS or against mile markers on the
> highway
>
> Chris
>
> Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: David Brodbeck wrote:
> >
> > The most accurate way to calculate fuel economy is as follows:
> > - Fill the tank until the pump shuts off.
> > - Drive.
> > - Refill the tank, preferably from the same pump, since the shutoff
> > point varies from pump to pump.
>
> I'd run it off a small tank under the hood, even a quart mayonaise jar
> will do. Plug the lines from the tank, and hook both the supply and
> return lines to the jar. You can conduct an accurate mpg test in
> a few miles this way. If your mileage still stinks, you know the
> problem is under the hood and not with a rusty line under the car.
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
>
>
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf"
> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>
> -
> Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
> ___
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>
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>

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

Yes - that's EXACTLY trhe way I am doing it.

On 11/17/05, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
> > When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to
> drive
> > up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100
> miles
> > LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19
> mpg.
> > I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in
> fuel
> > consumption.
>
> Have you actually calculated the fuel economy? If you're going by the
> reserve light, it may just be that the light isn't working right. Mine
> sometimes comes on with the tank FULL. ;)
>
> The most accurate way to calculate fuel economy is as follows:
> - Fill the tank until the pump shuts off.
> - Drive.
> - Refill the tank, preferably from the same pump, since the shutoff
> point varies from pump to pump.
> - Divide the distance driven by the gallons needed to refill the tank.
> - Ideally, repeat this two or three times to get an average.
>
> > I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this
> be
> > addressed?
> >
>
> If it's running rich enough to cause that kind of drop in fuel economy,
> it should be laying down quite a smoke screen...
>
> Have you checked to make sure none of your brakes are dragging? I've
> seen a single draggy brake drop fuel economy by a good 20% on some
> cars. Put your hand down by the wheel vents after a freeway run and see
> if one brake disc is throwing off a lot more heat than the others.
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985

Great post Todd! Very informative.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/18/05, Smith, Todd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> This is one area that I know a little something about since I have followed 
> these diesels for years.  In the early 70's, GM was looking at worsening fuel 
> prices and their existing

[MBZ] voltage regulator question w123

2005-11-18 Thread dieselbenz24

Hearing about the lifespan of a voltage regulator being about 150kmi for a w124 
makes me think about mine.  Does this same limit apply to the w123 ?  Also, how 
difficult is it to install one of these ? How do you go about that ?  
 
TIA,
Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 88kmi
 
ps Adjusted my valves this past weekend for the first time and I found a piece 
of something in there that looked about the same shape as a piece of hot dog, 
round on one side, but was black and really crumbled to the touch.  Seemed like 
a strange place to find debris.  What am I going to find next, an old shoe ?

Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam 
and email virus protection.

Re: [MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985

2005-11-18 Thread Gary Hurst

a very interesting post about a car i've always flirted with getting.

On 11/18/05, Smith, Todd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> This is one area that I know a little something about since I have
> followed these diesels for years. In the early 70's, GM was looking at
> worsening fuel prices and their existing production lines for large
> automobiles and declining sales. The Oldsmobile division spent time and
> money looking at ways to improve fuel economy in their larger automobiles.
> One promising avenue was to design and build a diesel engine with the BPOC
> (Buick, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Cadillac) transmission bolt pattern that would
> bolt up in existing production lines.
>
> AFAIK, in 1974 Olds was testing a diesel engine that was built from an
> 5.7L Rocket spark-ignited gasoline engine using a belt-driven IP. These
> tests were a complete failure and Olds realized that they couldn't use
> anything more then just external accessories from existing engines.
> Everything else for the new diesel engines had to be custom designed
> including the block. The myth that the later 5.7L and 4.3L diesels are
> converted gas motors is completely false. The blocks have a higher nickel
> content and 4 bolt mains and a different crank size then the small block
> Olds gas motors.
>
> The engines used two different types of injectors, pencil and poppet types
> that while custom spec'd for this application were derived from agricultural
> use injectors. These are supposedly far more efficient designs then the more
> typical Bosch style injectors that are in widespread use. In 1982, EPA
> testing showed that the 1982 Oldsmobile 98 full-size car was getting 32mpg
> on almost a 5000# car. These engines were available across the entire GM
> product line from 1979-85 and still to this day rank 4th on eBay as the most
> numerous diesel passenger vehicles.
>
> Why do this engines have a terrible reputation and why did GM drop the
> whole project and buy third-party diesel designs? There are many answers and
> the truth is probably some of all of them. The biggest issue that the
> engines had were in head gasket failures since they seemed to fail much more
> rapidly then other gas engines of the same time frame. Another answer is
> that these engines were designed for fuel economy and not horsepower and
> owners tried to expect too much from the engines. A third answer is that in
> the early 80's diesel fuel quality was said to be at a all time low and non
> diesel savvy owners would buy diesel fuel in places where the fuel had been
> contaminated via water or algae.
>
> The head bolts were installed by some early robotic equipment using
> stretch to torque fasteners. These fasteners were not adequate to the job
> and most believe were primarily selected due to compatibility with the new
> robotic equipment. The head bolts were not adequate for the task and
> routinely failed causing head gasket leaks in as few as 30-50K miles. In
> some cases, 100K were reached, but many didn't reach that point without
> failure. GM didn't take the time to properly research the problem and for
> the dealers, it was faster to replace the entire motor then troubleshoot the
> dead one. Dealers hated to deal with the vehicles due to the constant
> service issues and customers hated the vehicles since the problems didn't
> stay fixed.
>
> One issue with the head bolts were they were designed to be one use only
> applications. Either through neglect of training or not caring enough, many
> GM technicians would reuse the fasteners that "looked" okay and only
> replaced the "failed" bolts. Of course, it wasn't long before the head
> gasket failed again and the engine was blamed to be a poor design. Replacing
> the head bolts with solid ARP aftermarket fasteners has resurrected many
> Olds diesels.
>
> The website http://www.olds-diesel.com is a good source of information
> concerning these engines and the automobiles that they were installed in.
> Many fixes and improvements over factory original have been made and many
> users drive "transplanted" engines in vehicles. One of my personal favorites
> is the Diesel Fiero that is running the 4.3L V6 diesel.
>
> Todd Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with failed charging sys?

On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 10:37:11 -0500 ANGELO GIAIMO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Epilog:  Wife shut the car off after I said "Don't shut the car off" and
> she did not hear the "Don't".

Ah, yes, the thought distinction between, "Don't shut it off," and "Leave
it running." I've been told for the former that one has to think of "shut
it off" first and then negate it.

Craig

Re: [MBZ] Austin listers [was Re: WAKE UP FOLKS, Euro 85 300D manny tranny]

On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 08:57:30 -0600 Gary Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Did I miss something? Something I need to take a look at? Where?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-1985-Mercedes-300D_W0QQitemZ4589122583QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ends Nov-19-05 15:00:00 PST (17:00:00 CST)



Craig

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Dave M.

Hi John,

IMO, sway bar bushings are inspected visually, not by hardness. If
they are sloppy and deformed, so the bar is not tightly held in the
bushing, they should be replaced. The old style was plain rubber. The
new ones (from the DEALER, not aftermarket) have a Teflon lining on
the inside to reduce noise. I doubt this is the cause of your clunk,
but it's cheap and easy and sure wouldn't hurt to replace. Here's a
photo of worn-out bushings on my E500 with 90kmi... new bushings in
the rear, old bushings in the front. Note the old ones are deformed:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/cars/94_E500/restoration/sway_bar_bushings.jpg

Could you tell us more about the clunking noise? Is it under braking,
or with vertical suspension movement, etc? All the time or
intermittent?

:-)

+dm

> --
> Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 08:11:35 -0500
> From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?
>
>
> Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested that
> I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, $30,
> and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer says
> new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get
> rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber hard,
> but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are
> coming from
>
> John Peterson
> Kingston RI  91 300D 2.5 74k

[MBZ] OT: GM (Oldsmobile) 5.7L and 4.3L diesels 1979-1985

Hello,

This is one area that I know a little something about since I have followed 
these diesels for years.  In the early 70's, GM was looking at worsening fuel 
prices and their existing production lines for large automobiles and declining 
sales.  The Oldsmobile division spent time and money looking at ways to improve 
fuel economy in their larger automobiles.  One promising avenue was to design 
and build a diesel engine with the BPOC (Buick, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Cadillac) 
transmission bolt pattern that would bolt up in existing production lines.

AFAIK, in 1974 Olds was testing a diesel engine that was built from an 5.7L 
Rocket spark-ignited gasoline engine using a belt-driven IP.  These tests were 
a complete failure and Olds realized that they couldn't use anything more then 
just external accessories from existing engines.  Everything else for the new 
diesel engines had to be custom designed including the block.  The myth that 
the later 5.7L and 4.3L diesels are converted gas motors is completely false.  
The blocks have a higher nickel content and 4 bolt mains and a different crank 
size then the small block Olds gas motors.

The engines used two different types of injectors, pencil and poppet types that 
while custom spec'd for this application were derived from agricultural use 
injectors.  These are supposedly far more efficient designs then the more 
typical Bosch style injectors that are in widespread use.  In 1982, EPA testing 
showed that the 1982 Oldsmobile 98 full-size car was getting 32mpg on almost a 
5000# car.  These engines were available across the entire GM product line from 
1979-85 and still to this day rank 4th on eBay as the most numerous diesel 
passenger vehicles.

Why do this engines have a terrible reputation and why did GM drop the whole 
project and buy third-party diesel designs? There are many answers and the 
truth is probably some of all of them.  The biggest issue that the engines had 
were in head gasket failures since they seemed to fail much more rapidly then 
other gas engines of the same time frame.  Another answer is that these engines 
were designed for fuel economy and not horsepower and owners tried to expect 
too much from the engines.  A third answer is that in the early 80's diesel 
fuel quality was said to be at a all time low and non diesel savvy owners would 
buy diesel fuel in places where the fuel had been contaminated via water or 
algae. 

The head bolts were installed by some early robotic equipment using stretch to 
torque fasteners.  These fasteners were not adequate to the job and most 
believe were primarily selected due to compatibility with the new robotic 
equipment.  The head bolts were not adequate for the task and routinely failed 
causing head gasket leaks in as few as 30-50K miles.  In some cases, 100K were 
reached, but many didn't reach that point without failure.  GM didn't take the 
time to properly research the problem and for the dealers, it was faster to 
replace the entire motor then troubleshoot the dead one.  Dealers hated to deal 
with the vehicles due to the constant service issues and customers hated the 
vehicles since the problems didn't stay fixed.

One issue with the head bolts were they were designed to be one use only 
applications.  Either through neglect of training or not caring enough, many GM 
technicians would reuse the fasteners that "looked" okay and only replaced the 
"failed" bolts.  Of course, it wasn't long before the head gasket failed again 
and the engine was blamed to be a poor design.  Replacing the head bolts with 
solid ARP aftermarket fasteners has resurrected many Olds diesels.

The website http://www.olds-diesel.com is a good source of information 
concerning these engines and the automobiles that they were installed in.  Many 
fixes and improvements over factory original have been made and many users 
drive "transplanted" engines in vehicles.  One of my personal favorites is the 
Diesel Fiero that is running the 4.3L V6 diesel.

Todd Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with failed charging sys?

2005-11-18 Thread ANGELO GIAIMO

Oops.Yes, the car is the infamous 1990 350SDL..

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with failed charging sys?

2005-11-18 Thread ANGELO GIAIMO

Day 1:  Drove from beautiful downtown Wappinger Falls, NY to just south of
Roanoke VA and crashed late that nigh in some hotel.   Wipers, lights,
heater, radio, everything working fine, so I guess the charging system was
working.

Day 2:  Somewhere around the VA/NC border, I noticed the heater control not
working correctly.  Around Charlotte, the speedo would change as I
opened/closed the windows or hit the directionals. No Alt light was on.
Shut everything down and kept driving, only stopping for fuel, making it
all the way to Atlantic Beach, Florida, (A suburb of Jacksonville), still
in the daylight, although it was running a little rough when I got there.
(Low fuel pressure?),

I estimate we drove about 500 miles (8 or 9 hours), without a functional
alternator.

Epilog:  Wife shut the car off after I said "Don't shut the car off" and
she did not hear the "Don't".  New MB Battery, replaced 2 months before,
deader than a doornail.  Charged overnight and she kicked right over.
Local repair shop (Franz's Auto Repair at the Beaches) got it back to me
with a rebuilt alternator the same day (Christmas Eve).  Bill was about
$220.00.  Nice Christmas present.

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

[MBZ] How far/long CAN you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

2005-11-18 Thread wilton strickland

Diesel without electronic engine controls, etc., til it's out of fuel or
some other malfunction makes it quit.  Engine/car doesn't NEED ANY
electricity to keep going - no radio, starter, wipers, lights (incl. brake
lights), etc.  Keep refueling it while running, it'll keep running til
something else makes it quit - could be several weeks and many kmi.

BTW, in Greenland in '78, my AF '77 Ford F250 Crewcab pickup (not diesel)
ran once for 2 weeks without being cut off.  Lack of electricity, though,
was not a factor.  Ambient temp. was -55F.  Vehicle was base
alternate/emergency command post.

Wilton

[MBZ] LWB 123 picture

2005-11-18 Thread BillR

 > > What ?? Picks of an old chevy, but no picks of the rare 123 LWB
yet?
> > Where are your priorities?
>
> I guess I'll have to do it for him
>
>
There must be something of a story with that one.  It looks like a great
car.  Where can I get some info on it?
BillR
Jacksonville FL

Re: [MBZ] Tranny Mounts

2005-11-18 Thread Chuck Landenberger


Larry,

On my car, 1980 300SD, the primary symptom was a moderate vibration  
at 800-1200 rpm when accelerating.  It mostly went away after that.


The tranny mount, also called rear engine mount, was collapsed about  
a 1/2 inch causing a misalignment between transmission and driveshaft  
(aka propeller shaft).


Took me less than an hour and next time would be no more than a 1/2  
hour.  Be sure to block up the trans w/a floor jack and a 2x4 long  
enough to go all the way across the trans oil pan.


Now there is NO vibration and it's smth.

Hope this helps..

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity! Part II (Part I solved)

what is a low cylinder...low compression?

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  ohhh, ok

Christopher McCann wrote:

>  we had it set too low...that was the first problem, stalling in reverse  
> (esp when cold) or stalling in reverse when A/C is on when hot  
> out...increasing the idle solved that. the rhythmic revving has been a  
> constant regardless of low idle or high idle.
>   
>   Chris
> 
> "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:  I have seen them do that when the idle is set a 
> little too high.  I 
> would try lowering it.
> 
>
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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someone sent me the instructions on how to adjust  the rack damper bolt 
yesterday and I no longer have it...had a picture  and about a page of text - 
was an attachement.

  Could whoever sent it, please send it again. Getting tired of going to the 
indy and might as well jump in and do it myself.

  Thanks,

  Chris

Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Related news - idle has been adjusted to what appears about 850-900 on  the
> tach (not totally reliable). No stalling in reverse this morning  and it was
> chilly. So THAT is solved.

Well, it may have fixed it but I am not sure it's SOLVED, if the idle surge
still exists.

The reason you can't see it in the linkage is that it's an internal pump
issue. I think you now need to give the rack damper bolt a nudge. Ever so
gently, mind, and after each nudge give it a minute to 'settle' (don't go by
any immediate change, or absence thereof).

Mac

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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From [EMAIL PROTECTE

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity! Part II (Part I solved)

2005-11-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin


ohhh, ok

Christopher McCann wrote:


we had it set too low...that was the first  problem, stalling in reverse (esp 
when cold) or stalling in reverse  when A/C is on when hot out...increasing the 
idle solved that. the  rhythmic revving has been a constant regardless of low 
idle or high  idle.
  
  Chris


"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I have seen them do that when the idle is set a little too high.  I 
would try lowering it.




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity! Part II (Part I solved)

we had it set too low...that was the first  problem, stalling in reverse (esp 
when cold) or stalling in reverse  when A/C is on when hot out...increasing the 
idle solved that. the  rhythmic revving has been a constant regardless of low 
idle or high  idle.
  
  Chris

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I have seen them do that when 
the idle is set a little too high.  I 
would try lowering it.

Christopher McCann wrote:

> that doesn't sound good - what is it?
>   
>  Related news - idle has been adjusted to what appears about 850-900 on  the 
> tach (not totally reliable). No stalling in reverse this morning  and it was 
> chilly. So THAT is solved.
>   
> The rhythmic  revving, unfortunately, is still there. It's really weird - you 
> cannot  see the throttle linkage more AT ALL while it is rhytmically revving. 
>  disconnected the linkage to the IP (per Marshall's suggestion) and that  had 
> no effect. Engine mounts are about 1 year old and are very solid.  Again, 
> this ONLY happens in park, neutral and drive while coasting when  the engine 
> is WARM. Doesn't happen cold and doesn;t happen hot (when I  say hot, being 
> at 80 for 5 minutes isn't hot...I mean after 10 minutes  or so of highway 
> driving), but once it goes away, it's gone unitl; the  next time the car is 
> started FROM COLD.
>   
> now that the  idle is up to NO STALL mode...PERHAPS IT'S TIME TO REDO THE 
> RACK DAMPER  BOLT, being sure not to turn it a hair further than  
> necessary...thoughts?
>   
>   Chris
>   
>   
> 
> "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:  maybe you have a low cylinder
> 
> Christopher McCann wrote:
> 
> 
>>Timing chain is brand new.
>>  
>>  Damper bolt is new and the new style. Also, I don't have any lope (know  
>> what that is...that's why I got the new bolt)...this is a rhythmic  
>> revving...like pushing the accelerator ever so slightly - no engine  loping 
>> at all. It happens in PARK, NEUTRAL and DRIVE WHEN THERE IS NO  LOAD 
>> (coasting down hill). The rev is between - oh - 600 and 800 rpm  and cycles 
>> every 1.5 seconds...but NO LOPE.
>>  
>>  Chris
>>
>>Marshall Booth  wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
>>
>>
>>>1. Idle speed is not too low - just now adjusted a bit high (to address this 
>>>problem)...prolly around 800.
>>> 2. what are other symptoms of late injection timing...don't you tend to get 
>>> smoke? I never have smoke - ever.
>>> 3. Timing chain is brand new
>>>  4. rack positioner stop bolt - is that the same as the rack damper  bolt? 
>>> If so, already had it replaced with the new one - know exactly  what you 
>>> mean about THAT problem being worse hot than cold
>>
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] idle insanity

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity! Part II (Part I solved)

2005-11-18 Thread Steve MacSween

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Related news - idle has been adjusted to what appears about 850-900 on  the
> tach (not totally reliable). No stalling in reverse this morning  and it was
> chilly. So THAT is solved.

Well, it may have fixed it but I am not sure it's SOLVED, if the idle surge
still exists.

The reason you can't see it in the linkage is that it's an internal pump
issue. I think you now need to give the rack damper bolt a nudge. Ever so
gently, mind, and after each nudge give it a minute to 'settle' (don't go by
any immediate change, or absence thereof).

Mac

[MBZ] Rear suspension, '82 126 300SD

2005-11-18 Thread Hans Neureiter

My rear end is down about 2 - 3" and getting worse.
Looks like I have the motor in the trunk instead of under the hood.
I really need to correct this.
What do I need to look at ? Rear/front suframe rubber mounts and/or spring
spacers ?
Has anyone done this at home ?
Seems that I need a spring compressor and extraction/insertion tools for
subframe mounts.
Can these be rented and where ?

--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Crappy fuel, was: Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

Loren,

  Thanks for the historical precedent. No wonder they're making so much  
money...not really selling us fuel! Like putting saw dust in dog food.

  I'm gonna try the local BP per Dr. Booth's rec. Of course, BP fuel in W. MO 
and BP fuel in W. PA may be TOTALLY different...

  Chris

Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I have gotten at least 2 loads of bad 
fuel post Katrina.  One was in the 
truck with the IH DT466.  It had a new filter, and I got a few gallons at a 
small town coop to last until I could get to a truck stop and cheaper 
fuel.  Ended up limping to a NAPA, changed the main filter (again) and that 
cured it.  I think I only put 5 gal in the 50 gal tank.

The other time was last weekend.  Started the SDL and it died 
immediately.  It had run fine the day before when i parked it.  Cranked and 
no fire.  Cracked a line, and NO fuel.  Went to town and bought fuel 
filters.  Changed the primary and blew back into the tank.  Ran 
fine.  Still running fine.  In each case, I am suspecting algae, but no 
proof.  I didn't tear either filter apart.

This is not counting the poor performance.  There are currently noticeable 
differences in fuel quality and mileage.  When the price goes up, they dump 
water and alcohol or other emulsifier in the tanks to stretch the 
supply.  It happens to both gasoline and Diesel.  Same thing happened in 
1974/75.  I remember tanking up my R75/5 with very expensive premium at a 
Standard station in Hannibal, MO.  Almost immediately, the engine lost so 
much power I thought something was wrong.  Finally decided it was just poor 
gasoline.

At 04:56 PM 11/17/2005, you wrote:
>crappy post Katria fuel and funky odo have been my  pet theories as to why 
>my mpgs have gone down recently too (on the SD).  Not cold enough in the 
>last couple months for THAT (coldness) to have  effected it.
>
>   Also, the TD (haven't had it long enough to really get a feel for 
> it),  does not seem to get great mpg's...makes me think of more crappy fuel...
>
>   Chris

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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that doesn't sound good - what is it?

  Related news - idle has been adjusted to what appears about 850-900 on  the 
tach (not totally reliable). No stalling in reverse this morning  and it was 
chilly. So THAT is solved.

  The rhythmic revving, unfortunately, is still there. It's really weird  - you 
cannot see the throttle linkage more AT ALL while it is  rhytmically revving. 
discon

Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: purging fuel]

2005-11-18 Thread Harry Watkins

I did it with a Rabbit when my wife filled it with gas.  Wedged an air hose
in the filler with a rag and regulated 7 lbs of air.  Had a hose attached to
the tube at the engine and let it go into 5 gallon bucket.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 7:57 AM
Subject: [MBZ] [Fwd: purging fuel]


>
>
>  Original Message 
> Subject: purging fuel
> Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 20:08:14 -0800
> From: Jerry Herrman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
>
> I don't want to reveal how, but in my foolishness I managed to get
> contaminants in the fuel tank and lines. What procedure would be
> recommended for emptying the tank thru the line that comes into the
> engine compartment?
> Would it be best to,say, blow compressed air into the tank to chase it
> out and capture it in a can, or would it be better to apply a vacuum and
> draw it out from the front? Is it possible to point the car downhill and
> just let gravity empty it? I think I need to just drain out what is at
> the bottom of the tank. Surely someone has successfully accomplished
> this and can say how it was done.
> thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Jerry
> 82 240D awaiting an enema
>
>
>
> Upgrade Your Email - Click here!
>

>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

2005-11-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin


it seems that way.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Nice truck Kaleb, you can usually bet when it belonged to a FD they took care 
of them.
 
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles

72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride

2005-11-18 Thread OK Don

Thanks, George!

On 11/17/05, George Gregory <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 11/17/05 8:32 PM, "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > What ?? Picks of an old chevy, but no picks of the rare 123 LWB yet?
> > Where are your priorities?
>
> I guess I'll have to do it for him
>
>
> -- next part --
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>
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>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] Moose day

2005-11-18 Thread OK Don

eBay?
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=moose+sign


On 11/18/05, L. Mark Finch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Speaking of Moose, does anyone know where I can buy a MUTCD-compliant
> Moose warning sign? Some dastardly scoundrels made off with mine a
> couple of days ago.
>
> --mf
>
> _
> L. Mark Finch

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] Moose day

2005-11-18 Thread L . Mark Finch

Speaking of Moose, does anyone know where I can buy a MUTCD-compliant 
Moose warning sign? Some dastardly scoundrels made off with mine a 
couple of days ago.


--mf

_
L. Mark Finch
Indianapolis
1982 300D Turbodiesel
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 Original Message 
Subject:purging fuel
Date:   Thu, 17 Nov 2005 20:08:14 -0800
From:   Jerry Herrman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



I don't want to reveal how, but in my foolishness I managed to get
contaminants in the fuel tank and lines. What procedure would be
recommended for emptying the tank thru the line that comes into the
engine compartment?
Would it be best to,say, blow compressed air into the tank to chase it
out and capture it in a can, or would it be better to apply a vacuum and
draw it out from the front? Is it possible to point the car downhill and
just let gravity empty it? I think I need to just drain out what is at
the bottom of the tank. Surely someone has successfully accomplished
this and can say how it was done.
thanks in advance for your help.

Jerry
82 240D awaiting an enema



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

[MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread John Peterson

Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested that 
I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, $30, 
and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer says 
new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get 
rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber hard, 
but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are 
coming from


John Peterson
Kingston RI  91 300D 2.5 74k

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] WAKE UP FOLKS, Euro 85 300D manny tranny



Hendrik Riessen wrote:


I recently pulled a 5 speed getrag box out of a 82 230TE which was a 
english

delivered car. It has a non racing shift pattern.


Overdrive or 1:1 in 5th?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

2005-11-18 Thread mykd1

Nice truck Kaleb, you can usually bet when it belonged to a FD they took care 
of them.
 
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 17:47:41 -0600
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride


HAHA, no, they removed all that but Im betting I can put some back in, 
along with lights!!

Chuck Landenberger wrote:

> Kaleb,
> 
> Siren still work
> 
> Chuck
> On Nov 17, 2005, at 10:30 AM, Donald Snook wrote:
> 
> 
>>Kaleb Wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>check out my new ride
>>
>>
>>
>>http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>I'll give you $500.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Donald H. Snook
>>
>>McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A.
>>
>>300 West Douglas
>>
>>P.O. Box 207
>>
>>Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
>>
>>Tel. (316) 263-5851
>>
>>This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
>>privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
>>have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.
>>
>>
>>
>>___
>>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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Re: [MBZ] WAKE UP FOLKS, Euro 85 300D manny tranny

2005-11-18 Thread Mitch Haley

Hendrik Riessen wrote:
> 
> I recently pulled a 5 speed getrag box out of a 82 230TE which was a english
> delivered car. It has a non racing shift pattern.

Overdrive or 1:1 in 5th?

Mitch.

Re: [MBZ] wtf?

2005-11-18 Thread Mitch Haley

Craig McCluskey wrote:
> The only thing that looks amiss is the cylinderical thing with the two red
> rings on the passenger side of the engine. A K&N air filter?
> 

That or similar.
Cool air intake (CAI) was mentioned as one of the features.
"Hot underhood air intake" would be more appropriate.
Don't these people know that CAI draws air from the cowl,
fender, or front of the car?

Re: [MBZ] WAKE UP FOLKS, Euro 85 300D manny tranny

2005-11-18 Thread Hendrik Riessen

I recently pulled a 5 speed getrag box out of a 82 230TE which was a english 
delivered car. It has a non racing shift pattern.

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] WAKE UP FOLKS, Euro 85 300D manny tranny

John Ervine wrote:

Sunil Hari wrote:
> 5-speed Getrag on a 5-cyl.

Datacard says 4-spd gearbox.

I haven't heard of (reliably anyway) a non MBZ box on anything
but a 16 valve W201. 2.3-16, Evolution, Evolution II all had Getrag
5sp with 1st gear back and left, 2-5 in an H pattern

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Re: [MBZ] 300CD laundry list of failures

2005-11-18 Thread Steve MacSween

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
>> <>
>> 
>> Seems to me that a   normal owner who gave a damn would fix these items as
>> they came along and not drive the car into the ground. That's what Honda
>> drivers 
>> do.

>From the cars that I've seen, normality applies to 50 percent of owners at
best.

More often than not, the pattern is more like the original or second (that
is, 'interested' or enthusiast) owner keeps the car in top shape and
addresses the problems as they arise. Then the car gets sold to someone who
is unwilling or unable to do the work, and it gradually accumulates enough
niggling issues that when the repair estimate gets done, it generates a
'holy sh*t' reaction and the car gets sold into the wholesale market.

I know a guy who buys up cars like this for resale all the time, from local
garages. Often the cars have little wrong with them that a weekend of
tinkering and maybe some parts hunting won't fix.

Mac

Re: [MBZ] Tranny Mounts

2005-11-18 Thread JFreezn

 
In a message dated 11/17/2005 5:35:03 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Other  than looking for visible damage, is there a way to confirm tranny 
mounts  are good/bad??



Chuck just changed his.  He may have something to contribute.   Common 
symptoms are a banging noise coming from the trans area when shifting  gears at 
heavy throttle, and vibrations you can feel as you pass over a swooping  
depression in the road which generates down force on the mount (though this  
could be 
the center mount drive shaft bearing or even the differential center  mount.
 
Removing the mount should reveal metal to metal contact.
 
Regard,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 138 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] Moose day List o' cars

On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 21:28:16 -0800 redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111405969.html  --Casey Car  $1200
> 
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111309742.html  --MORE Casey Car

It's appropriate they're near Seattle, just fire them up and you can hear
the Pugeot Sound.


Craig

P.S. Oh, yeah:  :-)

[MBZ] Austin listers [was Re: WAKE UP FOLKS, Euro 85 300D manny tranny]

On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 22:47:07 -0500 John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Sunil Hari wrote:
> > 5-speed Getrag on a 5-cyl.
> 
> Datacard says 4-spd gearbox.


VIN is for a 5-speed.

Some of the guys in Austin are near enough to go have a look.


Any volunteers?


Craig

[MBZ] C-class

2005-11-18 Thread RELNGSON

<>

Since the original post talked about buying a car that may still be under 
warranty, that can only mean the W203.

And, my W202, while vastly more reliable than the 115, 116, 123 and 201s I 
owned, still had more warranty repairs than my W203. So, it's the winner, 
reliablity-wise.

RLE

[MBZ] Old manuals like om621 & om636

2005-11-18 Thread redghost


http://seattle.craigslist.org/pts/111950958.html


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

[MBZ] Moose day List o' cars

2005-11-18 Thread redghost

Just Delete this if you can't stand the thought of another list of cars 
you are not going to buy




http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112068221.html  --92 SE  $16k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112066888.html  --81 TD  $2500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112065752.html  --80 SD  $2500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112064341.html  --86 190D  2.5  $3500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112064482.html  --91 190e  $4400

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112062757.html  --88 300e  $3800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112052430.html  --93 SL  $16k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112040025.html  --89 TE  $5k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112038954.html  --76 280se  $800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112037878.html  --87 300D  $10k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/112036065.html  --77 SLC  $3200

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111990997.html  --93 300e  $8k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111955616.html  --66 SL  $20k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111914765.html  --92 TE  $7k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111763501.html  --69 280se  $500+

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111707447.html  --83 sel  $5500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111695097.html  --81 Delorean  $25k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111641905.html  --85 300d  $300 (300)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111585729.html  --87 300e  $3200

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111509950.html  --82 SD  $4500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111437359.html  --92 300se  $8500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111405969.html  --Casey Car  $1200

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111324381.html  --82 sel - seller on 
drugs


http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111309742.html  --MORE Casey Car



Not mine, no interest, ignore this and move on, nothing to see here, go 
about your business



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

[MBZ] Crappy fuel, was: Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

2005-11-18 Thread Loren Faeth

I have gotten at least 2 loads of bad fuel post Katrina.  One was in the 
truck with the IH DT466.  It had a new filter, and I got a few gallons at a 
small town coop to last until I could get to a truck stop and cheaper 
fuel.  Ended up limping to a NAPA, changed the main filter (again) and that 
cured it.  I think I only put 5 gal in the 50 gal tank.


The other time was last weekend.  Started the SDL and it died 
immediately.  It had run fine the day before when i parked it.  Cranked and 
no fire.  Cracked a line, and NO fuel.  Went to town and bought fuel 
filters.  Changed the primary and blew back into the tank.  Ran 
fine.  Still running fine.  In each case, I am suspecting algae, but no 
proof.  I didn't tear either filter apart.


This is not counting the poor performance.  There are currently noticeable 
differences in fuel quality and mileage.  When the price goes up, they dump 
water and alcohol or other emulsifier in the tanks to stretch the 
supply.  It happens to both gasoline and Diesel.  Same thing happened in 
1974/75.  I remember tanking up my R75/5 with very expensive premium at a 
Standard station in Hannibal, MO.  Almost immediately, the engine lost so 
much power I thought something was wrong.  Finally decided it was just poor 
gasoline.




At 04:56 PM 11/17/2005, you wrote:
crappy post Katria fuel and funky odo have been my  pet theories as to why 
my mpgs have gone down recently too (on the SD).  Not cold enough in the 
last couple months for THAT (coldness) to have  effected it.


  Also, the TD (haven't had it long enough to really get a feel for 
it),  does not seem to get great mpg's...makes me think of more crappy fuel...


  Chris

[MBZ] Regina's next move

2005-11-18 Thread redghost


http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/111730525.html

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] wtf?

On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 21:03:23 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300D-300CD-300SD-300TD-5-Cylinder-Engine_W0QQitemZ8015931443QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


The only thing that looks amiss is the cylinderical thing with the two red
rings on the passenger side of the engine. A K&N air filter?


Craig

Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride

2005-11-18 Thread George Gregory

On 11/17/05 8:32 PM, "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> What ?? Picks of an old chevy, but no picks of the rare 123 LWB yet?
> Where are your priorities?

I guess I'll have to do it for him


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Re: [MBZ] 300CD laundry list of failures

2005-11-18 Thread Rich Thomas

I agree, but a lot of people just get tired of dealing with various 
niggling problems some mech charges them big money to fix, sell the car, 
let the next guy deal with it, esp if its 20 yr old and they don't want 
to throw more money at it.  I saw a quite decent 300SD go at the charity 
auction for $900, reason for donation listed on the paper said "it's old."


--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


<>

Seems to me that a   normal owner who gave a damn would fix these items as 
they came along and not drive the car into the ground. That's what Honda drivers 
do.


RLE, Seattle
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Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride