Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[archer]

ROFL!!  My brother-in-law put his huge housetrailer (Spartan) tires on the 
back of his Studebaker.  The truck had such a tilt, you'd slide off the seat 
when you put on the brake if you weren't careful.

Gerry


- Original Message - 
From: "David Brodbeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?


Put the bigger ones on the rear only. Then you'll be driving downhill
all the time. ;)

Re: [MBZ] CL E500 in Columbus

[LT Don]

But he did say, "Excellent condition E500 with approximately $49,000."  Is
that what is required to keep it on the road, in maintenance costs?

On 5/29/06, Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


course, he doesn't list the year, mileage, or the fact that it's going to
suck.

On 5/29/06, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Not cheap.
> http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/165837940.html
>
> No affiliation, ect.
> Rick Knoble
> '85 300 CD
> '87 190 DT
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[archer]

Then it would seem you would just have to try larger diameter tires in order 
to determine if there are fuel savings.  I wonder what would be the biggest 
diameter tire that could be used on a 123 if you ignored handling problems?

Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

---
- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?



The engine will have to work harder to move the car at a given speed
with larger diameter tires/wheels. You can do the same thing by
changing the gear ratio in the rear end. There is a point where that
effort will exceed the possible savings from lower RPMs. Note also
that a lot of our Diesels don't see a significant change fuel economy
with different RPM ranges - I don't understand why - chalk it up to MB
engineers.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[David Brodbeck]

Put the bigger ones on the rear only. Then you'll be driving downhill 
all the time. ;)

Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[David Brodbeck]

Jim Cathey wrote:
up to operating temperature. Turn car off and let sit for awhile, then 
open
hood and try to turn fan. What happens is the fan clutch has to get 
warm to

engage.



The fan might also need to spin, as I understand there is a centrifugal
pumping action that is also at work inside.  I'd be leery of that test,
unless I'd plenty of experience with the car _before_ it was having
problems.  Those viscous fan clutches are a really elegant bit of
engineering.  Translation: tricky beasts!
  


Yeah, and they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.  The theory is 
the same, but the way they act and sound seems to be different.  I had a 
Ford van where you would never really hear the thing kick in, but one 
time I overheated it pulling a trailer, and while I was stopped to let 
it cool I tried to spin the fan, and sure enough, the clutch had engaged 
and solidly locked the fan to the shaft.  On my Volvo I never could feel 
it with the spin test, but I'd hear the unmistakable roar of the fan 
spinning at high speed after being stopped in traffic on hot days.  On 
the Mercedes, I never heard or felt it engage but I could see the 
evidence of it doing so on the temperature gauge.


Summary: You gotta know your car when it's working right to really 
diagnose this.

Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic

[OK Don]

The "illegals" are only coming North because of the demand for their
labor. We need them - your cheap food supply is one example. The
proper response is not to ship them home, then demand that they comply
with regulations and bureaucracy meant to limit their ability to come
North, it's to change the laws, regulations, and bureaucracy to make
it easy for them to enter. Those that are here should be grandfathered
in.
They are breaking the law because the law is in neither their nor our
interests. Don't punish them for our stupidity, reward them for taking
the risk on both of our behalf's.

On 5/29/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

You don't get it.  It's not the cost of transporting them to Mexico
that's the problem.  It's the cost of tracking down and rounding up 12
million people.  Even if there was the political will to do it the cost
would be astronomical.  And there isn't the political will; too many
business interests are arrayed against it.  Think of the costs
associated with illegal immigration as yet another way the government
subsidizes our cheap food supply.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] OT: Laptop "glide"/touch pads [was: Re: MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker]

[David Brodbeck]

Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Sat, 27 May 2006 17:06:05 -0400 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  

Well Duh!  I'm missing  a few words!  I'm trying to get used to the
glide pad on my laptop - sometimes my wrist brushes against it and I
end up erasing a section of stuff!  Sorry -



I have the same problem on my Dell C840 at work - I relax my thumbs, they
touch the pad and suddenly a different window (or none at all) has the
focus. Frustrating.

I'm told there is a way in Windows to disable the mouse click action of
the pad and use it just for pointing, but since I use Linux ...
  


In Windows, upgrade to the latest version of the driver.  The new 
Synaptics Touchpad drivers let you disable tap-to-click.  They also let 
you temporarily disable the pad whenever keys are being pressed, which 
neatly eliminates the problem of brushing it with your palm if you have 
bad typing habits.  (Resting your wrists on the keyboard while typing 
encourages carpel tunnel.  It's better to hold your wrists up so they're 
as straight as possible.)

Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[OK Don]

The engine will have to work harder to move the car at a given speed
with larger diameter tires/wheels. You can do the same thing by
changing the gear ratio in the rear end. There is a point where that
effort will exceed the possible savings from lower RPMs. Note also
that a lot of our Diesels don't see a significant change fuel economy
with different RPM ranges - I don't understand why - chalk it up to MB
engineers.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] In the news: Diesels poison innocent children

[David Brodbeck]

tom savage wrote:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/24/AR2006052402362.html

Tom
  


Some school districts are using biodiesel as an oxygenating additive to 
cut down on the particulate problem, and reducing idling, which is when 
most of the fumes enter the cabin anyway.  As school buses get retired 
from the fleet and replaced with newer, cleaner models I suspect the 
problem will lessen.


Overlooked is the problem of the pollution created by legions of parents 
waiting outside the school for their kids every day, engines idling, 
pumping out lots of CO and NOx while getting 0 mpg.  When I was a kid, I 
had to walk or bike to school.  My parents only gave me a ride if the 
temperature was below 0 F.

Re: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?

[l02turner]

you asked:<< might be easier to remove the entire engine and

transmission.>>


It will be much easier with it out of the car.  But in addition to the hoist 
you should probably invest in a engine stand - running less than $75 around 
here.  WHen the engine and/or tranny is hanging from the hoist it will not 
be properly supprted and you'l find it hard to keep it properly supported in 
slings/chains/etc and still have access to the things you need.  You'll find 
you must move the slings around to get to things as you remove things like 
the oil pan etc.


Also, the stand will allow you to rotate the engine for much easier access - 
but be careful as it's very heavy and when not secured with a bolt/pin to 
prevent it turning it will rotate before you know it - taking with it 
anything you may on it - like your hands, ratchet, etc.


Doing it out of the car is much easier but you must have the proper 
equipment to do it safely.


When I rebuilt my 240D I didn't have any trouble with the AC - I unbolted it 
and pulled it to one side and wired it in place.  Not a problem.  Don't know 
about the tranny - that requires a *lot* of under car work and I didn;t take 
that route when I pulled the engine alone.


One thing to remember - whether you remove the engine with the tranny or 
seperate them later - make sure the torque converter stays against the 
tranny - the fingers on the TC must be properly engaged into the front pump 
or the pump and TC will be damaged.  The books usually talk at length about 
this - just pay attention.


Good luck -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 3:13 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?



I'm the nut who is cleaning up the 606 engine in a 124, after its vacuum
pump disintegrated.  I can only find a few hours per week to work on it. 
So

this has become a long project.



I've got the top of the engine cleaned out and reassembled.  Now I need to
remove the oil pan to clean out the ball bearings and debris that settled
below.



Looking at the Service Manual Library on CD, the official procedure is to
raise the engine without removing it, to remove the oil pan.  But that
involves laying under the car to remove the torsion bar, oil cooler and 
many
other things. Then loosening the oil pan and removing the oil pump 
(probably

by feel.) to then screw around and wiggle the pan out from between the
cassis and engine block, while rotating the crank.  Sounds like a major 
PITA

from the description.



I'm wondering if it might be easier to remove the entire engine and
transmission.

I bought a handy-dandy 2 ton engine hoist from Sams Club. (A lot like the
one sold by HF) But I probably should not lay under an engine that is 
being

supported by a hydraulic hoist anyway.



With the engine removed from the car, it seems like things would be safer
and easier to see and work on.  The Service Manual procedure 2400HB for
engine removal does not sound any worse than procedure 7500HA for oil pan
removal.



But I don't know what I don't know.  Has anybody been here before, and can
tell me how difficult it is to remove and re-install the engine?



Thanks,
Ned Kleinhenz

'95 E300D x2

'85 300D

'80 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?

[OK Don]

I agree with Jim and Peter. Once the engine is out, you can easily
replace the gaskets to everything that bolts to the side of the block.
This will reduce oil leaks for a long time. You can get to and remove
the block coolant drain plugs - allowing for a complete change of
collant, and replace the seal rings on the plugs. Everything is easier
to get to with the engine out.
Once the engine is out, you can suport it by the mount arms on each
side and the tranny at the rear, several feet above the ground, and
still leave the hoist attached with tension on the chain - providing
stability. It should be easy to remove the pan then.

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic

[David Brodbeck]

You don't get it.  It's not the cost of transporting them to Mexico 
that's the problem.  It's the cost of tracking down and rounding up 12 
million people.  Even if there was the political will to do it the cost 
would be astronomical.  And there isn't the political will; too many 
business interests are arrayed against it.  Think of the costs 
associated with illegal immigration as yet another way the government 
subsidizes our cheap food supply.

Re: [MBZ] SD run-hot update

[David Brodbeck]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Side note 2:   If you have never pulled a radiator, the next time  you are in 
a wrecking yard, take notice of the radiator faces, on cars that have  had 
the condenser scavenged.  You will be amazed at how much stuff is  blocking the 
fins!
  


I also found a big wad of trash lodged between the condensor and the aux 
fan motor, on mine!  Dead bugs, grass clippings, cottonwood seeds, you 
name it.  Probably irrelevent, though, since the fan motor blocks 
airflow through that location anyhow.

Re: [MBZ] vehicle height

[l02turner]

   The front wheels *are* a simple 'turn of a bolt', as you've heard - but 
adjusting the rear means disassembling the trailing arms and re-indexing the 
torsion bars for each side.  Keeping track of the number of teeth you've 
turned while re-installing them can be a chore - cause things are hards to 
see - which is why I haven't tried to fix mine.  Some of the later 911s are 
easier (mines a '74) and adjustible trailing arms are available for ~$400. 
When racing it might be worth it but for people like me who just want to 
change to a lower height it's usually a one time thing and adjustible isn;t 
worth it.  It's been a couple of years & I need to refresh my memory - but 
there's a way to turn the t-bar one way and the piece it rests in the 
opposite way a minute amount of change can be made.  Mines about 3/8" out 
(high on the drivers side) and I believe that's a one tooth change.


And of course, once the front and/or rear height is changed an alignment is 
needed.



Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] vehicle height



I was under the impression that the ride height of a 911 was fairly easy to
adjust, as in the turn of a bolt or something like that.  IIRC, the weld 
in
kits for the VW type 1, which allowed you to re-index the torsion springs 
on
the front axle beam, used to tout their system as similar to the Porsche 
911

(which of course didn't have an axle beam, but that's what they claimed,
anyway).

On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Thanks to Zeitgeist & Marshall for their words of wisdom!

Yeah, I should probably leave well enough alone.  After all, when I
lowered
my 911, one corner ended up 3/8" higher than the other side - doesn't
sound
like much - but it's noticable when viewed from the rear.  Of course, 
when

I
put my big a$$ in the drivers seat the difference may disappear
completely.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
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Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[OK Don]

Do the Harbor Freight stores have the same sales the the web site does?

On 5/29/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Wow!  Just checked it out - on sale for $36.99 and includes
> sockets all
> the way to 50mm (almost 2"!! - that's freaking huge!)

The sockets also make nice seal drivers, and circle gauges for
making gaskets, etc.

> I don't have a 3/4" breaker bar but a adapter to go from 3/4 to 1/2
> wouldn't
> be too expensive.

The HF set has a non-ratchet driver as well.  That and a piece of pipe
and you're all set.

-- Jim


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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[Hendrik Riessen]

I gave my old 200 to my uncle when I bought the 230E a couple of years ago 
and he had a seniors moment and pulled into the path of another car. Due to 
age and rust it is not worth fixing.

ANother one bites the dust.

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor




On May 28, 2006, at 8:33 PM, Hendrik Riessen wrote:


Hendrik
whose old 200 got dealt a death blow over the weekend


What happened?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] BIG tires

[archer]

Archer wrote:
<< I put larger rims and tires on my '67 200D and got better mpg on the
highway. The originals were 13" and the replacements were 14" IIRC.>>

Doing so will affect what may be loosely called performance in a big way on 
a

modestly powered car. And you corrected the speedo/odo error in what way?
RLE
___

I was driving from Florida to Atlanta, Georgia weekly and fuelling at the 
same stations both places.  I repeatedly determined that there was a saving 
in fuel by the amount of fuel burned between those two points.  I used the 
mileposts to calculate speed and distance travelled.


I'm not sure there was any saving, however, since the engine had to have new 
rings after about 65,000 miles which could have been due to excess strain on 
the engine which was somewhat underpowered to begin with.


Since the 300D Turbo has excess power by comparison as well as oil spray 
nozzles keeping the pistons cool; it might be able to handle the strain of 
larger tires and lower rpm IMHO.
Gerry 

Re: [MBZ] 911 ride height

[Zeitgeist]

So is that all it does, or is there a way to adjust height as well?  I know
you were supposed to add caster shims if cranking the VW axle beams way
down.

On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


<>

Which changes the camber. And the toe-in.

RLE
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--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] BIG tires

[RELNGSON]

<< I put larger rims and tires on my '67 200D and got better mpg on the 
highway.  The originals were 13" and the replacements were 14" IIRC.>>

Doing so will affect what may be loosely called performance in a big way on a 
modestly powered car. And you corrected the speedo/odo error in what way? 

RLE

Re: [MBZ] 911 ride height

[RELNGSON]

<>

Which changes the camber. And the toe-in.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[archer]

archer wrote:

Would larger diameter tires on a 123 improve diesel fuel mileage?



NO! Where did you get that idea?
Marshall

---
The engine turns a fewer number of revolutions per mile traveled when the 
circumference of the tire is greater, doesn't it?  Some automobiles; 
depending on a number of factors; burn less fuel per mile as a result.
My brother-in-law put larger tires on his Studebaker pickup years ago and 
got an additional 4.xx miles-per-gallon.  I put larger rims and tires on my 
'67 200D and got better mpg on the highway.  The originals were 13" and the 
replacements were 14" IIRC.
Gerry 

Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[Rick Knoble]

Would larger diameter tires on a 123 improve diesel fuel mileage?


NO! Where did you get that idea?

Marshall


More distance covered per revolution of the tire. I.E. A taller tire has 
greater circumference.

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT 

Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[Marshall Booth]

archer wrote:

Would larger diameter tires on a 123 improve diesel fuel mileage?


NO! Where did you get that idea?

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] CL E500 in Columbus

[Rick Knoble]

Not cheap.
http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/165837940.html

No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mon May 29 21:49:36 2006
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X-List-Received-Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 21:49:36 -

course, he doesn't list the year, mileage, or the fact that it's going to
suck.

On 5/29/06, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Not cheap.
> http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/165837940.html
>
> No affiliation, ect.
> Rick Knoble
> '85 300 CD
> '87 190 DT
> ___
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>



--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?

[Peter Frederick]

Pull engine and tranny together, it's vastly easier and then separate.  
You will spend less time, much more safely, than if you try to do the 
pan in the car.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[archer]

Would larger diameter tires on a 123 improve diesel fuel mileage?
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

- Original Message - 
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 1:23 PM
Subject: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?


Hola, just wondering if the newly surplus rims that were formerly on my 
S124
will fit on our '84 300D.  The 15"x7" et 37 rims in question are 
apparently

originally from an early W210.  The bundts are et 30, so are there any
glaringly obvious reasons why these won't fit?  I think I've seen another
123 with stock 124 rims fitted before, but maybe they were actually from a
126--dunno.
--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (212k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.7.3/350 - Release Date: 5/28/2006

Re: [MBZ] vehicle height

[Zeitgeist]

I was under the impression that the ride height of a 911 was fairly easy to
adjust, as in the turn of a bolt or something like that.  IIRC, the weld in
kits for the VW type 1, which allowed you to re-index the torsion springs on
the front axle beam, used to tout their system as similar to the Porsche 911
(which of course didn't have an axle beam, but that's what they claimed,
anyway).

On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Thanks to Zeitgeist & Marshall for their words of wisdom!

Yeah, I should probably leave well enough alone.  After all, when I
lowered
my 911, one corner ended up 3/8" higher than the other side - doesn't
sound
like much - but it's noticable when viewed from the rear.  Of course, when
I
put my big a$$ in the drivers seat the difference may disappear
completely.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] vehicle height

[l02turner]

Thanks to Zeitgeist & Marshall for their words of wisdom!

Now that it appears I'm within tolerance I may want to look into lowering my 
car a little - just to reduce some of that empty space above the tires but 
it's probably more of a project than I want to get involved in.


Yeah, I should probably leave well enough alone.  After all, when I lowered 
my 911, one corner ended up 3/8" higher than the other side - doesn't sound 
like much - but it's noticable when viewed from the rear.  Of course, when I 
put my big a$$ in the drivers seat the difference may disappear completely. 
;-)


Thanks again for the help ya'll!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] vehicle height


Funny you should mention it...I've been adjusting the height of my 124 
this
weekend.  I believe the proper method for checking height is to measure 
from

the fender lip to the wheel centerline.  I cut my springs by 4" front and
rear to drop the chassis down to ~14.5".  You can also order spring pads 
in

various thicknesses (4 sizes in front and 3 in back) to achieve  small
adjustments in height.  My car has #3 pads front and rear, so I'll be
dropping down to #1, which will hopefully allow me to drop the chassis to 
an
even 14".  Apparently these pads will wear and compress over time, which 
may

be the source of your variances in height.  YMMV

On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Hello !
Was looking my '91 300D (104k miles) over and noticed the height at
each
fender looked uneven.  Checked with my metal yardstick and got the
following
measurements -
LF - 26.5"
RF - 26.0"
LR - 26.75"
RR - 26.5"

I measured from the driveway to the lower edge of the fender flare - 
along

the centerline of the wheel/tire.

Have been looking at the resources on the CD I haveand so far nothing
shows
that dimension - should they be *exactly* the same side-to-side? How much
difference should there be front to rear - taking into account the
difference in fender shape?   is there something I should look at 1st?

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



___
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--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (214k)
'84 300D (212k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
___
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Re: [MBZ] vehicle height

[Marshall Booth]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello !
Was looking my '91 300D (104k miles) over and noticed the height at each 
fender looked uneven.  Checked with my metal yardstick and got the following 
measurements -

LF - 26.5"
RF - 26.0"
LR - 26.75"
RR - 26.5"

I measured from the driveway to the lower edge of the fender flare - along 
the centerline of the wheel/tire.


Have been looking at the resources on the CD I haveand so far nothing shows 
that dimension - should they be *exactly* the same side-to-side? How much 
difference should there be front to rear - taking into account the 
difference in fender shape?   is there something I should look at 1st?


The proper measurement is from the center of the axle to the fender lip. 
 Most models have a +10, -12 mm tolerance so from lowest to highest 
should be a little less than 1" (25.4 mm = 1'). Since you are within 
0.75" I expect you are within the proper range, but your measurement 
scheme includes any error related to tire inflation.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Bob Rentfro]

Hopefully the link for parts isn't going to change to MoBenz or ShoMeBenz...

Bob Rentfro

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now



Well we signed up to go on some tour of some resort and in return we get
free/dirt cheap tickets to things.  Wonder what kind of scam this is going
to be.
- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now



Ideas for shows? no - you're SOL in Bransen.  The car? - Sell that POS
to me for the usual $500.

Anyway, stuck here in the tourist trap,

figuring out which shows are worth going to.  Anybody got any ideas?



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[Marshall Booth]

Zeitgeist wrote:

Hola, just wondering if the newly surplus rims that were formerly on my S124
will fit on our '84 300D.  The 15"x7" et 37 rims in question are apparently
originally from an early W210.  The bundts are et 30, so are there any
glaringly obvious reasons why these won't fit?  I think I've seen another
123 with stock 124 rims fitted before, but maybe they were actually from a
126--dunno.


NO wheels from a 124/201/202/210 mustn't be used on a 123/126.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?

[Jim Cathey]

I'm wondering if it might be easier to remove the entire engine and
transmission.


For some jobs, probably yes.  Things like AC can certainly
complicate the removal, but once the engine is out you can
do some serious cleanup of it and the engine bay.  I think
that if your hood sticks straight up and you can face the
AC issue then such jobs are easier done out of the car.
Especially if you already have the necessary tools like
a hoist.

-- Jim

[MBZ] From the NY Times: Diesel a Savior in Squeeze on Energy?

[Marshall Booth]

Diesel a Savior in Squeeze on Energy? Obstacles Exist
By MATTHEW L. WALD

WASHINGTON, May 26 — Forget about navigation systems and sunroofs — the 
sales pitch at a time of sky-high fuel prices may soon be a tempting 
patter about high mileage for buyers of the newest diesel models.


With a new kind of diesel fuel entering the market in the next few days; 
new technologies that vastly reduce problems with noise, smell and 
performance; and federal tax benefits like the ones offered for 
hybrid-electric vehicles, car manufactures are hoping to get consumers 
excited about more diesel-powered cars and sport utility vehicles.


Though President Bush, who often mentions diesels as a promising way to 
promote a sharp rise in fuel economy, has laid out goals to reduce oil 
imports, those goals may be extremely difficult to reach, some experts 
say. Some auto industry experts predict that with new technology and tax 
breaks, the American market could become more like that of Europe, where 
half of new autos are diesel powered. There is some doubt, however, over 
whether refineries can keep up with that demand without a sharp rise in 
diesel prices.


Kevin B. McMahon, director of the Martec Group, a consulting and market 
research firm in Detroit, said consumers who now buy gasoline pickups or 
cars and choose an optional bigger engine, giving up a mile or two per 
gallon of fuel economy, will soon buy diesels instead.


"Diesels deliver the kind of premium performance and exceptional 
durability that customers want, and they are willing to pay a premium to 
acquire," Mr. McMahon said.


The government is already on board. Last summer's energy bill makes 
so-called clean diesels eligible for the same tax breaks as hybrids, and 
Mr. Bush has said that diesels could help solve what he has called the 
nation's addiction to oil by going 30 percent farther per gallon than 
gasoline-powered vehicles. Such diesels will be on the market in a few 
years.


But some experts caution that there may be less there than meets the 
eye. For one thing, diesel is still a form of petroleum, and the ability 
of refineries to produce it in lieu of gasoline is limited. And it would 
take expensive investment to change the gasoline-to-diesel production ratio.


In Europe, diesel demand is high and growing by 1.5 percent a year, and 
"that's impossible to accommodate in a refinery," said Gene Tunison, 
manager of fuels development and policy planning at ExxonMobil.


Instead, European refineries are processing more crude oil to keep up 
with diesel demand and accumulating surplus gasoline that they export to 
the United States. That system is working because the United State has a 
shortage of refinery capacity, but if every country were to embark on a 
diesel strategy, refining would have to change radically, experts say.


Today, gasoline accounts for about half of what American refineries 
produce. An additional 25 percent is diesel or home-heating oil, and 
about 10 percent is jet fuel. Diesel, heating oil and jet fuel are 
similar products, and their price is set by a market that is only 
loosely tied to gasoline. Supply and demand make diesel more expensive 
than unleaded regular gas at some times, and less expensive at others.


Globally, demand for all three products is rising, said Joanne Shore, a 
senior analyst at the Energy Information Administration. A milestone was 
reached last year when diesel fuel, which usually sells at a discount to 
gasoline, reached parity. Sales of diesel vehicles will be limited in 
areas where diesel costs more, Ms. Shore predicted.


But new technology and regulatory policy are creating the possibility of 
more attractive diesel vehicles. Beginning June 1, refineries must 
produce what is known as ultra-low sulfur diesel, with no more than 15 
parts per million of sulfur, down from 500 parts per million. Removal of 
sulfur will allow car companies to install filters to catch soot 
(current diesel fuel would overwhelm a filter).


"It's analogous to taking the lead out of gasoline," said Allen 
Schaeffer, executive director of the Diesel Technology Forum, a trade 
group. Lead-free gasoline allowed the installation of catalytic 
converters in cars to control tailpipe emissions. In October, the 
low-sulfur diesel must be available at filling stations. That, said Mr. 
Schaeffer, "really opens up the door for the entire diesel industry."


Daimler-Chrysler, Volkswagen and other carmakers are selling or 
preparing to sell diesel vehicles in the United States. On Wednesday, 
Honda announced that it would be selling a four-cylinder diesel car in 
North America soon.


While low-sulfur content fuel has allowed the introduction of cleaner 
vehicles, other technologies that will limit emission of nitrogen 
oxides, an ingredient of smog, will probably be on the road around 2008. 
And new computerized controls that inject fuel more efficiently have 
increased power and reduced noise, so that diesel engines 

Re: [MBZ] vehicle height

[Zeitgeist]

Funny you should mention it...I've been adjusting the height of my 124 this
weekend.  I believe the proper method for checking height is to measure from
the fender lip to the wheel centerline.  I cut my springs by 4" front and
rear to drop the chassis down to ~14.5".  You can also order spring pads in
various thicknesses (4 sizes in front and 3 in back) to achieve  small
adjustments in height.  My car has #3 pads front and rear, so I'll be
dropping down to #1, which will hopefully allow me to drop the chassis to an
even 14".  Apparently these pads will wear and compress over time, which may
be the source of your variances in height.  YMMV

On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Hello !
Was looking my '91 300D (104k miles) over and noticed the height at
each
fender looked uneven.  Checked with my metal yardstick and got the
following
measurements -
LF - 26.5"
RF - 26.0"
LR - 26.75"
RR - 26.5"

I measured from the driveway to the lower edge of the fender flare - along
the centerline of the wheel/tire.

Have been looking at the resources on the CD I haveand so far nothing
shows
that dimension - should they be *exactly* the same side-to-side? How much
difference should there be front to rear - taking into account the
difference in fender shape?   is there something I should look at 1st?

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (214k)
'84 300D (212k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[Jim Cathey]

Wow!  Just checked it out - on sale for $36.99 and includes 
sockets all

the way to 50mm (almost 2"!! - that's freaking huge!)


The sockets also make nice seal drivers, and circle gauges for
making gaskets, etc.

I don't have a 3/4" breaker bar but a adapter to go from 3/4 to 1/2 
wouldn't

be too expensive.


The HF set has a non-ratchet driver as well.  That and a piece of pipe
and you're all set.

-- Jim

[MBZ] Pull the whole engine?

[ned kleinhenz]

I'm the nut who is cleaning up the 606 engine in a 124, after its vacuum
pump disintegrated.  I can only find a few hours per week to work on it. So
this has become a long project.



I've got the top of the engine cleaned out and reassembled.  Now I need to
remove the oil pan to clean out the ball bearings and debris that settled
below.



Looking at the Service Manual Library on CD, the official procedure is to
raise the engine without removing it, to remove the oil pan.  But that
involves laying under the car to remove the torsion bar, oil cooler and many
other things. Then loosening the oil pan and removing the oil pump (probably
by feel.) to then screw around and wiggle the pan out from between the
cassis and engine block, while rotating the crank.  Sounds like a major PITA
from the description.



I'm wondering if it might be easier to remove the entire engine and
transmission.

I bought a handy-dandy 2 ton engine hoist from Sams Club. (A lot like the
one sold by HF) But I probably should not lay under an engine that is being
supported by a hydraulic hoist anyway.



With the engine removed from the car, it seems like things would be safer
and easier to see and work on.  The Service Manual procedure 2400HB for
engine removal does not sound any worse than procedure 7500HA for oil pan
removal.



But I don't know what I don't know.  Has anybody been here before, and can
tell me how difficult it is to remove and re-install the engine?



Thanks,
Ned Kleinhenz

'95 E300D x2

'85 300D

'80 300TD

[MBZ] vehicle height

[l02turner]

Hello !
   Was looking my '91 300D (104k miles) over and noticed the height at each 
fender looked uneven.  Checked with my metal yardstick and got the following 
measurements -

LF - 26.5"
RF - 26.0"
LR - 26.75"
RR - 26.5"

I measured from the driveway to the lower edge of the fender flare - along 
the centerline of the wheel/tire.


Have been looking at the resources on the CD I haveand so far nothing shows 
that dimension - should they be *exactly* the same side-to-side? How much 
difference should there be front to rear - taking into account the 
difference in fender shape?   is there something I should look at 1st?


TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[Dan & Sandy Steadman]

Thank! The plumber's wrench worked great!

Dan Steadman

Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[l02turner]

   Wow!  Just checked it out - on sale for $36.99 and includes sockets all 
the way to 50mm (almost 2"!! - that's freaking huge!)


 You're absolutely right about not needing Mechanic's Quality - likely to 
only use these once in a while but having the right size at hand when needed 
makes a huge difference when trying to do some "little" job of maintanence 
that can turn nasty when the proper tool isn't handy.


I don't have a 3/4" breaker bar but a adapter to go from 3/4 to 1/2 wouldn't 
be too expensive.


Thanks for reminding me about HF -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter



[bought] socket for less than $20 IIRC


An entire 3/4" metric socket set is $40 when on sale at Harbor Freight.
Worth it, IMHO.  Makes short work of fuel senders, tank screens, and
crankshaft nuttery.  No, it's not a world-class tool, but it's not bad
and is plenty good enough for many uses.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[John Berryman]

On May 29, 2006, at 12:15 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:

Well we did get the tickets, but you have to be an strong willed  
asshole not

get intimidated into buying.


Well, has you written all over it.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[John Berryman]

On May 29, 2006, at 12:14 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:

Well we just got done with the first tour, have another one with  
another
company tomorrow.  BOY OLD BOY do they put the heat on.  Geez.  I  
thought we
were never going to get out of there.  Then they try and turn you  
against

each other.



	I can't believe you're putting yourself through all this. They're  
going to give you tickets to somewhere that will have the same type  
of offerings and waste more of your time.


 JUST SAY NO!!!

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[John Berryman]

On May 29, 2006, at 11:39 AM, Zeitgeist wrote:

Gawd, I had the same problem with the LR and RF springs on my S124  
this
weekend.  Compressed just fine, but upon re-installation, the  
sliding collar

would back up against the rim of hole in the LCA, which was totally
maddening.  I didn't do any grinding, but I did have to monkey with  
it while
verbally coaxing things along.  Why don't they make those holes  
larger





It takes a little patience but I never had to modify anything.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] a crack dealer

[OK Don]

Ah - now we have the subject for another government subsidized study!
Percentage of teen pregnancies started in coupes vs sedans vs wagons
vs vans vs the couch, etc.

On 5/29/06, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Probably not many more than conceived in coupes.

Randy B




--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] SD run-hot red herring note / head temp sensor question

[Steve MacSween]

on 5/29/06 9:21 AM, John Berryman at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> 
> Have you considered swapping in a known working used sensor or a new
> one? Has the electric fan ever come on during  this observation period?

No got one, amigo, and the electric fan is MIA (to be precise it isn't even
connected).

Tks

Mac

Re: [MBZ] Branson

[Steve MacSween]

on 5/29/06 12:12 PM, Gary Hurst at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> i got kicked out of a timeshare thing just the other week in gatlinburg.

Now THAT I would have paid good money to see.

Mac

Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[Steve MacSween]

on 5/29/06 1:23 PM, Zeitgeist at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hola, just wondering if the newly surplus rims that were formerly on my S124
> will fit on our '84 300D.  The 15"x7" et 37 rims in question are apparently
> originally from an early W210.  The bundts are et 30, so are there any
> glaringly obvious reasons why these won't fit?  I think I've seen another
> 123 with stock 124 rims fitted before, but maybe they were actually from a
> 126--dunno.

The general rule is that they won't fit, as ET30-32 was about the max for
the 70s-80s cars, some wheels for them (for example, my BBS knock-offs) are
under ET30.

Now that I have given you the party line, so long as you have the rims
anyway, why not try?

There is a photo site somewhere with pics of a w123 in Thailand or
Indonesia, forget which, with early w210 rims and it looks great.
Unfortunately, the photo owner does not reply to messages so I was never
able to find out what, if any spacers he used.

Mac

Re: [MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[Jim Cathey]

Hola, just wondering if the newly surplus rims that were formerly on 
my S124

will fit on our '84 300D.


Dream on, the correct rims are ET25 IIRC.  I mistakenly got hold of
a set of 124 wheels and tried to put them on a 126.  I knew I was in
trouble when the front spindle punched out the center cap when I threw
it on the hub!  Cost me plenty to have my new snow tires removed,
return the wheels, find another set, and have them mounted again.
Won't fit without spacers, and hardly worth it if you ask me.  So
far as I know, 114/115/107/123/126 (our stable except for the one
as-yet-undeployed 201) can all share wheels.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[Jim Cathey]

[bought] socket for less than $20 IIRC


An entire 3/4" metric socket set is $40 when on sale at Harbor Freight.
Worth it, IMHO.  Makes short work of fuel senders, tank screens, and
crankshaft nuttery.  No, it's not a world-class tool, but it's not bad
and is plenty good enough for many uses.

-- Jim

[MBZ] W210 rims on my W123?

[Zeitgeist]

Hola, just wondering if the newly surplus rims that were formerly on my S124
will fit on our '84 300D.  The 15"x7" et 37 rims in question are apparently
originally from an early W210.  The bundts are et 30, so are there any
glaringly obvious reasons why these won't fit?  I think I've seen another
123 with stock 124 rims fitted before, but maybe they were actually from a
126--dunno.
--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (212k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[Joe Knight]

Just a wee reminder folks.  Klann delivers a little injunction against
using air tools with all their compressors.  YMMV of course, but I'm
personally inclined to take these little caveats rather seriously and
I *certainly* wouldn't use air with a clone.

joe

Re: [MBZ] Branson

[James Jetton]

I wonder if these salespeople are failed REALTORS? HaHa

Message: 16
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 12:12:22 -0400
From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Branson
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mercedes Discussion List"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

i got kicked out of a timeshare thing just the other week in gatlinburg.
These people are just beyond any criminals you are used to. like vacuum
cleaner salespeople, they prey on the semi literate inbred crowd. This lot
was about the vilest group i've ever gone up against -- even uglier than the
MBCA braintrust!

On 5/29/06, James Jetton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Kaleb,
> Prepare for the sales team onslaught. I kid you not, these people are
> gonna try to pressure you into buying a time share. Nothings free in this
> world, you just discovered what your trip cost you. Good luck, these are
> professional sales people. Sharks. Words that belong on Banned.
>
>
> James Jetton
> 1987 300SDL 144k
> 1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke 173k


James Jetton
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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X-List-Received-Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 17:09:36 -

Just a wee reminder folks.  Klann delivers a little injunction against
using air tools with all their compressors.  YMMV of course, but I'm
personally inclined to take these little caveats rather seriously and
I *certainly* wouldn't use air with a clone.

joe

Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[R A Bennell]

Isn't this the plug that folks used a sparkplug socket on, upside down? There 
was a thread on this a long while
back. The gist of it was that the upper part of some spark plug sockets is the 
correct size to fit the plug on the
tank. Pull the rubber thing out of the socket and put the extension in from the 
wrong end and it will then permit
you to use the socket in a way never intended.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:17 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter



On May 29, 2006, at 10:52 AM, Dan & Sandy Steadman wrote:

> I need to know the best way to get the filter out. I
> don't have a wrench or socket that will fit the filter.
>
> Any tricks or suggestions?

Buy or borrow the correct tool. Using a hammer and chisel is not
recommended, especially on gas tanks.

>
> Thanks,
> Dan Steadman

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Branson

[R A Bennell]

Turn the tables on them. Try, at every opportunity, to sell them one of your 
old MB's. In addition, Regina could
try to sell them on the idea of having a "vacation" property in OK (she is a 
REALTOR, isn't she?). There must be
some property back home that you could try to flog.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Hurst
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 11:12 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Branson


i got kicked out of a timeshare thing just the other week in gatlinburg.
These people are just beyond any criminals you are used to.  like vacuum
cleaner salespeople, they prey on the semi literate inbred crowd.  This lot
was about the vilest group i've ever gone up against -- even uglier than the
MBCA braintrust!

On 5/29/06, James Jetton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Kaleb,
> Prepare for the sales team onslaught.  I kid you not, these people are
> gonna try to pressure you into buying a time share.  Nothings free in this
> world, you just discovered what your trip cost you. Good luck, these are
> professional sales people. Sharks. Words that belong on Banned.
>
>
> James Jetton
> 1987 300SDL 144k
> 1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke 173k
> ___
>

Re: [MBZ] a crack dealer

[R A Bennell]

Probably not many more than conceived in coupes.

Randy B 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rick Knoble
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 10:55 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] a crack dealer


> why would you buy them a coupe?  Come on, give em the wagon and make them

Do you have any idea how many teenage mothers conceived in the back of 
wagons???
ROTFLMAO!
Rick Knoble

Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Tom Hargrave]

Welcome to "the club". 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 11:16 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

Well we did get the tickets, but you have to be an strong willed asshole not
get intimidated into buying.
- Original Message -
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now


> "VICTIM" is a very accurate term. We were sat down with a high 
> pressure salesmen who pushed us to buy into a vacation plan. When we 
> did not after
> 2
> hours, the salesman stated that he had to discuss something with 
> his boss. I asked my Wife how important the free gift was and she 
> stated "not this important" and we walked out. We found out salesman 
> outside, smoking a cigarette. He was just making us sit there that 
> much longer! It was all part of the plan - to keep us in the seat 
> until we bought!
>
> By the way, we never received the "free gift". The salesman reminded 
> me several times that I would receive the gift after meeting with him. 
> In other words, the "gift" was nothing more than a ploy to keep us in 
> our seats!
> I'm
> sure that we would have received our Webber grill after another 2 
> hours of high pressure sales!!!
>
> I hope your experience is better, but it probably won't be. Ask for 
> the tickets first then leave!
>
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> 256-656-1924
> www.kegkits.com
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of John Berryman
> Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:05 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now
>
>
> On May 28, 2006, at 11:18 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:
>
>> Well we signed up to go on some tour of some resort and in return we 
>> get free/dirt cheap tickets to things.  Wonder what kind of scam this 
>> is going to be.
>
> They're going to take up a couple hours of your time and try to sell 
> you a condo or time-share or something. They usually put you on a bus 
> with a bunch of other victims so they have a captive (in the true 
> sense of the
> word) audience. This is done in many tourist traps.
> It's a waste of time and can ruin your vacation. Nothing is free and 
> you know it.
>
> Johnny B.
> I Mac Therefore I am
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
> 


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Re: [MBZ] 115 blower??

[R A Bennell]

I'm out here on the flat prairie. Maybe that is why I have not really found it 
to be a problem so far.

Randy B with old 300D (hey it even rhymes)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 9:14 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 blower??


Tom Hargrave wrote:
> I sold a Mercedes once for this problem and swore I would never own another
> 114 or 115 body Mercedes. Problem is, my 220D and both 240D's were the best
> running diesels I've owned to date!

Great running, but not capable of climbing a hill at the speed limit in 
most states.

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile]

Well we did get the tickets, but you have to be an strong willed asshole not 
get intimidated into buying.
- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now



"VICTIM" is a very accurate term. We were sat down with a high pressure
salesmen who pushed us to buy into a vacation plan. When we did not after 
2

hours, the salesman stated that he had to discuss something with his
boss. I asked my Wife how important the free gift was and she stated "not
this important" and we walked out. We found out salesman outside, smoking 
a
cigarette. He was just making us sit there that much longer! It was all 
part

of the plan - to keep us in the seat until we bought!

By the way, we never received the "free gift". The salesman reminded me
several times that I would receive the gift after meeting with him. In 
other
words, the "gift" was nothing more than a ploy to keep us in our seats! 
I'm

sure that we would have received our Webber grill after another 2 hours of
high pressure sales!!!

I hope your experience is better, but it probably won't be. Ask for the
tickets first then leave!


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:05 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now


On May 28, 2006, at 11:18 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:


Well we signed up to go on some tour of some resort and in return we
get free/dirt cheap tickets to things.  Wonder what kind of scam this
is going to be.


They're going to take up a couple hours of your time and try to sell
you a condo or time-share or something. They usually put you on a bus with 
a

bunch of other victims so they have a captive (in the true sense of the
word) audience. This is done in many tourist traps.
It's a waste of time and can ruin your vacation. Nothing is free and
you know it.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

___
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used

parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile]

Well we just got done with the first tour, have another one with another 
company tomorrow.  BOY OLD BOY do they put the heat on.  Geez.  I thought we 
were never going to get out of there.  Then they try and turn you against 
each other.
- Original Message - 
From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now




On May 28, 2006, at 11:18 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:


Well we signed up to go on some tour of some resort and in return
we get
free/dirt cheap tickets to things.  Wonder what kind of scam this
is going
to be.


They're going to take up a couple hours of your time and try to sell
you a condo or time-share or something. They usually put you on a bus
with a bunch of other victims so they have a captive (in the true
sense of the word) audience. This is done in many tourist traps.
It's a waste of time and can ruin your vacation. Nothing is free and
you know it.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] Branson

[Gary Hurst]

i got kicked out of a timeshare thing just the other week in gatlinburg.
These people are just beyond any criminals you are used to.  like vacuum
cleaner salespeople, they prey on the semi literate inbred crowd.  This lot
was about the vilest group i've ever gone up against -- even uglier than the
MBCA braintrust!

On 5/29/06, James Jetton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Kaleb,
Prepare for the sales team onslaught.  I kid you not, these people are
gonna try to pressure you into buying a time share.  Nothings free in this
world, you just discovered what your trip cost you. Good luck, these are
professional sales people. Sharks. Words that belong on Banned.


James Jetton
1987 300SDL 144k
1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke 173k
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Re: [MBZ] Jack Repair

[archer]

I bought one from Sams about 7 years ago and it has leaked down since day 
one.  Wanting to use the jack immediately, and not wanting to make the 70 
mile round trip to Sams, I replaced the top handle with a 10 inch piece of 
redibolt and made grips on the ends out of duct tape.  By strongly jerking, 
twisting, and rotating the handle, it was reduced to a very slow leakdown 
that made the jack usable with jackstands.  I've been using it that way ever 
since.  It will take it 15 to 30 minutes to leak down on to the jackstands. 
Using it that way has become routine since then.  I twist it as far as it 
will go, then jerk the devil out of it two or three times.


To let the jack down, the procedure is reversed.  The first few times, I 
jerked too hard and there was a fast descent.  It's hard to let the car down 
slowly with this jack.


Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

--
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Jack Repair




In a message dated 5/28/2006 6:12:30 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I have  an 20-year-old Allied (made in Taiwan) floor jack but it "leaks 
down"
while  jacking, even with the valve closed.  I suspect that hydraulic 
fluid
is leaking past the o-ring seal on the main piston.  Otherwise,  it is a 
nice

heavy-duty 2-ton unit with a pretty high lift capability;  although it is
heavy.

Question:  Should I try to repair this or  just replace it?  If repair, 
what

are likely sources for replacement  seals?



Even if you could find parts for that jack, they would not sell them
directly to you because of liability problems.  You would have to send the 
pump into
them, or buy a rebuilt exchange.  The cost would surely exceed  the very 
nice

jacks available at Costco and Sam's Club, for about  $70.

I had a very nice old name brand jack and spent several hours doing the
parts chase thing.  I ended up scrapping the thing for the 1/2" steel side 
plates

and stuff.

Regards,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles

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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.7.3/350 - Release Date: 5/28/2006

Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Peter Frederick]

Actually, the MB test for the fan clutch is even easier -- with engine 
hot (so the clutch should be engaged), shut the engine off.  If the fan 
rotates more than a single revolution more after the engine stops, the 
clutch is bad (i.e. out of fluid).


Sitting more than a couple minutes, it will ALWAYS be stiff to turn 
unless out of fluid-- the clutch works by filling a slot with high 
viscosity silicone oil to drag the fan blade.  The fluid drains into 
the slot with the engine off, so the fan will drag cold and after 
sitting.  This a good way to tell if the fluid has all leaked out, 
though -- if the fan spins freely cold, the clutch is shot.  
Unfortunately, it can drag cold but not work if the bimetallic spring 
is stuck or no longer "springs" as the temp changes so that the fluid 
is not directed into the slot.


It should also roar and move a lot of air for a few seconds when first 
started, then go quiet.  When engaged, it should also roar and move 
large quantities of air.


Easy to tell in my old Volvo, as the fan sounds like a jet engine, but 
not so obvious on a Benz.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Jack Repair

[l02turner]

I'd vote for replacing it - new ones are less than $70 - sometimes much 
less - depending on where you find them -
I had a similar jack as yours and mine started leaking - but with mine some 
of the other parts were starting to need adjustment also - with mine, a new 
one was much safer also -


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Jack Repair




In a message dated 5/28/2006 6:12:30 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I have  an 20-year-old Allied (made in Taiwan) floor jack but it "leaks 
down"
while  jacking, even with the valve closed.  I suspect that hydraulic 
fluid
is leaking past the o-ring seal on the main piston.  Otherwise,  it is a 
nice

heavy-duty 2-ton unit with a pretty high lift capability;  although it is
heavy.

Question:  Should I try to repair this or  just replace it?  If repair, 
what

are likely sources for replacement  seals?



Even if you could find parts for that jack, they would not sell them
directly to you because of liability problems.  You would have to send the 
pump into
them, or buy a rebuilt exchange.  The cost would surely exceed  the very 
nice

jacks available at Costco and Sam's Club, for about  $70.

I had a very nice old name brand jack and spent several hours doing the
parts chase thing.  I ended up scrapping the thing for the 1/2" steel side 
plates

and stuff.

Regards,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles

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Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[l02turner]

Howdy Dan -
   When I changed it on my '78 240D I went to Sears & bought the correct 
size socket for less than $20 IIRC - it takes a
1-13/16" in SAE size.  I didn't locate a proper sized metric socket and this 
one worked perfectly.  I just checked the sears website and the socket is 
listed as $25.


   Having the correct tool is the only way to know you won;t do any damage. 
I tried a pipe wrench and because of the location and difficulty I couldn't 
get any leverage to break it loose.  The socket was a piece of cake -


   BTW, since I didn't know how bad my filter would be so I bought a new 
one - Rusty has them for $17.00 for my a '80 300D.  Rusty calls them "Fuel 
Screen" in the Online Catalog.  pn E1010-87062 (same as for my W124 91 300D)


HTHs -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan & Sandy Steadman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:52 AM
Subject: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter



I have a partially clogged in-tank fuel filter in my 1980 300D. I have
drained the tank (yes, I made a mess and it took a long time to drain a
gallon and a half). I need to know the best way to get the filter out. I
don't have a wrench or socket that will fit the filter.

Any tricks or suggestions?

Thanks,
Dan Steadman


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Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Peter Frederick]

Likely that's not the fan, sadly, as the normal symptom there is hot 
running at idle with the aux fan coming on at high speed 
intermittantly.


Very likely it's new radiator time, although you could also have a 
thermostat that is getting tired.  If you don't know the history of the 
car completely, use of green coolant is a radiator killer -- corrosion 
clogs the aluminum tubes, and it won't dissolve in citric acid.  The 
problem will be worst right in front of the fan -- as the coolant temp 
drops the crud becomes less soluble, and the coolest part of the rad 
will be, of couse, in front of the fan!


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[Zeitgeist]

Gawd, I had the same problem with the LR and RF springs on my S124 this
weekend.  Compressed just fine, but upon re-installation, the sliding collar
would back up against the rim of hole in the LCA, which was totally
maddening.  I didn't do any grinding, but I did have to monkey with it while
verbally coaxing things along.  Why don't they make those holes larger

On 5/29/06, John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Rich Thomas wrote:
> On my TD I had to ream out the hole some for the compressor shaft to fit
> in there.  It was just a tad (hair, smidgen, shade, gnat's..) too
> small.

Same on our TD.  Rather, it fit in nicely, but wouldn't come back
out.  We, uh,
persuaded it via fine adjustment of the hole in the inner fender.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Tom Hargrave]

"VICTIM" is a very accurate term. We were sat down with a high pressure
salesmen who pushed us to buy into a vacation plan. When we did not after 2
hours, the salesman stated that he had to discuss something with his
boss. I asked my Wife how important the free gift was and she stated "not
this important" and we walked out. We found out salesman outside, smoking a
cigarette. He was just making us sit there that much longer! It was all part
of the plan - to keep us in the seat until we bought!

By the way, we never received the "free gift". The salesman reminded me
several times that I would receive the gift after meeting with him. In other
words, the "gift" was nothing more than a ploy to keep us in our seats! I'm
sure that we would have received our Webber grill after another 2 hours of
high pressure sales!!!

I hope your experience is better, but it probably won't be. Ask for the
tickets first then leave!


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:05 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now


On May 28, 2006, at 11:18 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:

> Well we signed up to go on some tour of some resort and in return we 
> get free/dirt cheap tickets to things.  Wonder what kind of scam this 
> is going to be.

They're going to take up a couple hours of your time and try to sell
you a condo or time-share or something. They usually put you on a bus with a
bunch of other victims so they have a captive (in the true sense of the
word) audience. This is done in many tourist traps.
It's a waste of time and can ruin your vacation. Nothing is free and
you know it.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[John Berryman]

On May 29, 2006, at 10:52 AM, Dan & Sandy Steadman wrote:


I need to know the best way to get the filter out. I
don't have a wrench or socket that will fit the filter.

Any tricks or suggestions?


	Buy or borrow the correct tool. Using a hammer and chisel is not  
recommended, especially on gas tanks.




Thanks,
Dan Steadman


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[John Berryman]

On May 28, 2006, at 11:18 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:

Well we signed up to go on some tour of some resort and in return  
we get
free/dirt cheap tickets to things.  Wonder what kind of scam this  
is going

to be.


	They're going to take up a couple hours of your time and try to sell  
you a condo or time-share or something. They usually put you on a bus  
with a bunch of other victims so they have a captive (in the true  
sense of the word) audience. This is done in many tourist traps.
	It's a waste of time and can ruin your vacation. Nothing is free and  
you know it.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[John Ervine]

Rich Thomas wrote:
On my TD I had to ream out the hole some for the compressor shaft to fit 
in there.  It was just a tad (hair, smidgen, shade, gnat's..) too 
small.


Same on our TD.  Rather, it fit in nicely, but wouldn't come back out.  We, uh, 
persuaded it via fine adjustment of the hole in the inner fender.


--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 180+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi
1972 220 278+kmi

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[Rich Thomas]

On my TD I had to ream out the hole some for the compressor shaft to fit 
in there.  It was just a tad (hair, smidgen, shade, gnat's..) too 
small.  A grinder wheel on a drill did it after a few minutes on each 
side.  YMMV.  Then go at it with your socket or air wrench.  By hand, 
you will get a good feel for the energy that gets imparted to the 
compressed spring, cause your arm will let you know.  This exercise will 
provide an indication of why you DO NOT want to do this halfassedly.


--R

John Ervine wrote:


Hendrik Riessen wrote:
 

Just a question, is it possible to tighten/loosen a proper Merc spring 
compressor from the top with a socket and extension?
   



Yes.

 

Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[Michael]

Use a big plumber's wrench.  It will get if off.

-MPL

-Original Message-
>From: Dan & Sandy Steadman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: May 29, 2006 10:52 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter
>
>I have a partially clogged in-tank fuel filter in my 1980 300D. I have 
>drained the tank (yes, I made a mess and it took a long time to drain a 
>gallon and a half). I need to know the best way to get the filter out. I 
>don't have a wrench or socket that will fit the filter.
>
>Any tricks or suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>Dan Steadman 
>
>
>___
>http://www.striplin.net
>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


Early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[John Berryman]

On May 28, 2006, at 8:33 PM, Hendrik Riessen wrote:


Hendrik
whose old 200 got dealt a death blow over the weekend


What happened?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

[MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[Dan & Sandy Steadman]

I have a partially clogged in-tank fuel filter in my 1980 300D. I have 
drained the tank (yes, I made a mess and it took a long time to drain a 
gallon and a half). I need to know the best way to get the filter out. I 
don't have a wrench or socket that will fit the filter.


Any tricks or suggestions?

Thanks,
Dan Steadman 

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[John Ervine]

Hendrik Riessen wrote:
Just a question, is it possible to tighten/loosen a proper Merc spring 
compressor from the top with a socket and extension?


Yes.

--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 180+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi
1972 220 278+kmi

Re: [MBZ] Driver's Door Seal

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 5/28/2006 10:01:26 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Any  tricks/BTDTs on removing and replacing door seals? 
Gonna order one from  Rusty and put 'er on as soon as I get it.



Bob,  I like to use STP's Son of a Gun to lube the new gasket, as it  is a 
cheap good preservative and will coat an area that you will never see  again.   
On my 116, the gasket makes a compound curve at the bottom  front of the door, 
and a GOOD contact adhesive will be required there to keep  the gasket in 
place. DON'T put any silicone there!
 
You will have to remove the pin from the door check so as to not have to  cut 
the gasket.  On some cars it is rusted in pretty good so a pre treat of  your 
favorite rust  buster might be in order.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[Jim Cathey]

I seem to recall a metal catch that will not allow the rear control 
arm to

swing down far enough for spring to fall out.


Unless you unhook the differential mount, no.  (123, etc.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Jim Cathey]

The aux fan runs, but apparently only when the A/C refrigerant 
pressure rises above 325psi.  My hot running problem wasn’t at idle, 
only at speed, and even then, only under load (climbing a mild grade, 
speeds over 80mph, etc..) when the ambient temperature is over 85 
degrees F.


The aux fan is a miserable feeble beast when compared to the main
fan, I suspect it's only role is intended to be at low speeds and
idle.  Ours was roaring away (I checked) during our overheating
episode over the pass to Jackson Hole on that Fourth of July, but
it of course couldn't hack it.

I will check to make sure the radiator tubes aren’t clogged ahead of 
the fan clutch, but I’m fairly certain that’s not the case.  I did 
drive the car again yesterday, and the temp gauge never rose more than 
one needle width above 80.


I was also so certain.  I was wrong, in my case.

I tried grounding both of the single wire sensors in the upper 
radiator hose outlet on the head, but neither of them made the aux fan 
run.  Am I looking in the wrong place for the sensor that cuts the fan 
in?  There’s another sensor mounted in that outlet, but it’s a two 
wire sensor.  I’m assuming that’s not the correct one.


Why?  The one that makes the fan go is the right one.  The one for the
gauge is on the side of the head, that much I know.  The one that runs
the aux fan on a 560 SL _is_ a two-pin sensor, I had one get stuck and
had to unplug it to shut the stupid thing off.  I bought a new one, but
using the car finally unstuck the sensor and I never did replace it.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[Trampas]

I seem to recall a metal catch that will not allow the rear control arm to
swing down far enough for spring to fall out. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 9:15 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

you DO NOT need a spring compressor for the rear springs, thats right folks,

you do not need one.  They are not under very much tension.  All you have to

do is unhook the shock etc and just lower the arm down, the spring will fall

right out
- Original Message - 
From: "Trampas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor


> Kaleb,
>
> That is a great way to do it!
>
> I replaced rear bushings in my 300SD using a cheap spring compressor. Of
> course I am very safety minded so I always use a chain or cable to hold
> spring compressed and to hold spring compressor in place. However it was
> still a bit scary, thus I went ahead and ordered the correct tool
> (hopefully) to do the front suspension.
>
> Note that I have had cheap spring compressors come off a spring once. Of
> course I had the safety chain so it was not a problem.  Now if I am doing
> struts I will take assembly to auto shop give mechanic $20 to swap struts
> using wall mounted spring compressor.
>
> Trampas
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile
> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:26 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor
>
> Here is the secret okie method for compressing the springs, use by itself 
> or
>
> as a safety to using the cheap compressor.  Its called the come-a-long
> spring compressor.  Basically you get a couple of pairs of come-a-longs 
> and
> let the cable out on them, run it down thru the certer hole above the 
> spring
>
> down toward the bottom and hook the hook on the spring.  Hook cable from 
> on
> on one side of spring, cable on other side of spring.  If you cant get 2
> pairs in there just use one.  You can either use this as a safety while
> compressing with a cheap compressor, if just use it by itself.  Crank the
> come-a-longs down till you get it compressed enough to get it out, then
> slowly let the tension off.  You are doing this from the engine 
> compartment
> btw.  I would not stand next to it though in case it does somehow let 
> loose,
>
> but you should be safe is you are above the engine compartment.  I have 
> used
>
> this method a few times on parts cars but never on a car I was putting 
> back
> together, so proceed at your own risk.
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 7:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor
>
>
>>I have to confess I compressed some front 123 springs with cheap
>> compressors, the only way I would do that again is to use at least 3 or 4
>> of
>> them together. It worked with two but was a scary experience.
>>
>> Hendrik
>> whose old 200 got dealt a death blow over the weekend
>>
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 4:15 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor
>>
>>
 I need an internal coil spring compressor to do some work on my W126.
 Since
 this is the second or third time I have needed one I was going to
 purchase
 one. Does anyone have one for sale or a recommendation for cheap one?
>>>
>>> I got in on the group-buy Klann.  Not that cheap, but substantially
>>> less than normal!  Compressed springs are a death trap, this is one
>>> place I sprung (!) for the correct tool.  Good luck.
>>>
>>> -- Jim
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> http://www.striplin.net
>>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>>> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.7.1/348 - Release Date: 
>>> 25/05/2006
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.striplin.net
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Jim Cathey]

If the fan clutch did not fix the problem I would personally pay
for it (of course he had replaced everything else).  Well he was
shocked to find it fixed the problem.


The the kicker, of course, is that _everything_ else must have
been replaced with actually good parts.  Things such as a bum
new thermostat or an eroded housing could easily have bitten
you in this situation.  When I did it I'd already replaced the
other obvious stuff, but not the housing and not the (expensive)
radiator.  I had no clue to the potential role of the former, and
I'd erroneously theorized that since the radiator was only a few
years old (by PO receipts) that it couldn't be at fault.  Bt!

up to operating temperature. Turn car off and let sit for awhile, then 
open
hood and try to turn fan. What happens is the fan clutch has to get 
warm to

engage.


The fan might also need to spin, as I understand there is a centrifugal
pumping action that is also at work inside.  I'd be leery of that test,
unless I'd plenty of experience with the car _before_ it was having
problems.  Those viscous fan clutches are a really elegant bit of
engineering.  Translation: tricky beasts!


if you are really anal you will use an IR temperature gun to measure
the temperature of the fan clutch before testing.


Oh yeah!  Maybe even a heat gun to really heat it up, then start
the car to see if it engages at speed/temperature.  I know the fans
in our SL's engage when cold, you can hear them roar.  But these
are gassers (quiet), and they have the old-style fans.  After we
get out of our driveway you can hear them uncouple and things
quiet down.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] SD run-hot red herring note / head temp sensor question

[John Berryman]

On May 28, 2006, at 2:46 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:

SO MY QUESTION IS, is this a noted failure pattern for the temp  
sensor? By
the yardstick of common sense, I don't for the life of me see how  
ambient

temps would affect a sensor stuck in the head.


	Have you considered swapping in a known working used sensor or a new  
one? Has the electric fan ever come on during  this observation period?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile]

you DO NOT need a spring compressor for the rear springs, thats right folks, 
you do not need one.  They are not under very much tension.  All you have to 
do is unhook the shock etc and just lower the arm down, the spring will fall 
right out
- Original Message - 
From: "Trampas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor



Kaleb,

That is a great way to do it!

I replaced rear bushings in my 300SD using a cheap spring compressor. Of
course I am very safety minded so I always use a chain or cable to hold
spring compressed and to hold spring compressor in place. However it was
still a bit scary, thus I went ahead and ordered the correct tool
(hopefully) to do the front suspension.

Note that I have had cheap spring compressors come off a spring once. Of
course I had the safety chain so it was not a problem.  Now if I am doing
struts I will take assembly to auto shop give mechanic $20 to swap struts
using wall mounted spring compressor.

Trampas


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

Here is the secret okie method for compressing the springs, use by itself 
or


as a safety to using the cheap compressor.  Its called the come-a-long
spring compressor.  Basically you get a couple of pairs of come-a-longs 
and
let the cable out on them, run it down thru the certer hole above the 
spring


down toward the bottom and hook the hook on the spring.  Hook cable from 
on

on one side of spring, cable on other side of spring.  If you cant get 2
pairs in there just use one.  You can either use this as a safety while
compressing with a cheap compressor, if just use it by itself.  Crank the
come-a-longs down till you get it compressed enough to get it out, then
slowly let the tension off.  You are doing this from the engine 
compartment
btw.  I would not stand next to it though in case it does somehow let 
loose,


but you should be safe is you are above the engine compartment.  I have 
used


this method a few times on parts cars but never on a car I was putting 
back

together, so proceed at your own risk.
- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor



I have to confess I compressed some front 123 springs with cheap
compressors, the only way I would do that again is to use at least 3 or 4
of
them together. It worked with two but was a scary experience.

Hendrik
whose old 200 got dealt a death blow over the weekend

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 4:15 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor



I need an internal coil spring compressor to do some work on my W126.
Since
this is the second or third time I have needed one I was going to
purchase
one. Does anyone have one for sale or a recommendation for cheap one?


I got in on the group-buy Klann.  Not that cheap, but substantially
less than normal!  Compressed springs are a death trap, this is one
place I sprung (!) for the correct tool.  Good luck.

-- Jim


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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.7.1/348 - Release Date: 
25/05/2006




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Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile]

on the SDL, it should also run when the coolant temp gets about a certain temp, 
I want to say 110 or so
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brian Smyla 
  To: 'Mercedes mailing list' 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 5:58 AM
  Subject: Re: Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch


  Thanks for the input, Kaleb and Jim.  

   

  The aux fan runs, but apparently only when the A/C refrigerant pressure rises 
above 325psi.  My hot running problem wasn't at idle, only at speed, and even 
then, only under load (climbing a mild grade, speeds over 80mph, etc..) when 
the ambient temperature is over 85 degrees F.  I will check to make sure the 
radiator tubes aren't clogged ahead of the fan clutch, but I'm fairly certain 
that's not the case.  I did drive the car again yesterday, and the temp gauge 
never rose more than one needle width above 80.

   

  I tried grounding both of the single wire sensors in the upper radiator hose 
outlet on the head, but neither of them made the aux fan run.  Am I looking in 
the wrong place for the sensor that cuts the fan in?  There's another sensor 
mounted in that outlet, but it's a two wire sensor.  I'm assuming that's not 
the correct one.

   

  Thanks again!

   

  -brian

   

Re: [MBZ] Branson

[Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile]

yep, I figured, just say no though.  Besides, we already have a time share 
that my granmother gave us
- Original Message - 
From: "James Jetton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Branson



Kaleb,
Prepare for the sales team onslaught.  I kid you not, these people are 
gonna try to pressure you into buying a time share.  Nothings free in this 
world, you just discovered what your trip cost you. Good luck, these are 
professional sales people. Sharks. Words that belong on Banned.



James Jetton
1987 300SDL 144k
1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke 173k
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Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile]

its just a little bug, not to worry
- Original Message - 
From: "Luther Gulseth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 12:47 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now





Bet Regina is real happy right now.  Do you have backup transportation?
Maybe instead of seeing shows, you need to get the SDL running correctly 
so

you can get home.  Unless you expect that one of us will give you a ride
home...

Luther


Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:


Drove the SDL over to branson, will be here all week.  The damn thing
started acting up. First in the stop and go traffic it started running 
too

hot.  The aux fan would not kick in so I assume switch is bad, I just

jumped

it to run all the time, so temp is fine now.  Then it started not wanting

to

upshift when it should, and does not want to go into 4th.  Then all the
sudden the throttle did not rev the engine.  Pulled over, yep, linkage 
was

loose.  Discovered one of the ball joints totally worn out so it will not
stay on. Ended up taking the cruise linkage off and taking one of the

cheapy

plastic ball joint things and fitting it onto the other linkage.  Works

fine
now but still didnt solve my wierd tranny issue.  Fluid level is fine, 
not
burned or anthing.  Almost acts like the kickdown solinoid is stuck. 
Which

it could be I suppose.  It did this once before a while back but has not
done it since.  If you get up to speed if you put it in neutral then back

to
drive it will fall down into 4th.  Anyway, stuck here in the tourist 
trap,

figuring out which shows are worth going to.  Anybody got any ideas?






--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)



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Re: [MBZ] Jack Repair

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 5/28/2006 6:12:30 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I have  an 20-year-old Allied (made in Taiwan) floor jack but it "leaks down"
while  jacking, even with the valve closed.  I suspect that hydraulic  fluid
is leaking past the o-ring seal on the main piston.  Otherwise,  it is a nice
heavy-duty 2-ton unit with a pretty high lift capability;  although it is
heavy.

Question:  Should I try to repair this or  just replace it?  If repair, what
are likely sources for replacement  seals?



Even if you could find parts for that jack, they would not sell them  
directly to you because of liability problems.  You would have to send the  
pump into 
them, or buy a rebuilt exchange.  The cost would surely exceed  the very nice 
jacks available at Costco and Sam's Club, for about  $70.   
 
I had a very nice old name brand jack and spent several hours doing the  
parts chase thing.  I ended up scrapping the thing for the 1/2" steel side  
plates 
and stuff.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile]

yea, wouldnt mind that, but its expensive
- Original Message - 
From: "Robert & Tara Ludwick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 12:27 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now



That Dixie Stampede show is pretty neat, just make sure not to sit in
the front row if you don't want manure in your supper.

There is an Oreilly auto parts just off the main drag east of  US 65 for
getting generic fixin goodies ( remember that one from limping through
that traffic jam with a bum alternator a few years ago :-)

--Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:

Drove the SDL over to branson, will be here all week.  The damn thing
started acting up. First in the stop and go traffic it started running 
too
hot.  The aux fan would not kick in so I assume switch is bad, I just 
jumped
it to run all the time, so temp is fine now.  Then it started not wanting 
to

upshift when it should, and does not want to go into 4th.  Then all the
sudden the throttle did not rev the engine.  Pulled over, yep, linkage 
was

loose.  Discovered one of the ball joints totally worn out so it will not
stay on. Ended up taking the cruise linkage off and taking one of the 
cheapy
plastic ball joint things and fitting it onto the other linkage.  Works 
fine
now but still didnt solve my wierd tranny issue.  Fluid level is fine, 
not
burned or anthing.  Almost acts like the kickdown solinoid is stuck. 
Which

it could be I suppose.  It did this once before a while back but has not
done it since.  If you get up to speed if you put it in neutral then back 
to
drive it will fall down into 4th.  Anyway, stuck here in the tourist 
trap,

figuring out which shows are worth going to.  Anybody got any ideas?


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Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Trampas]

This reminded me of when I worked as mechanic. Another shop had a chevy that
overheated on the highway, I told him to replace the fan clutch. He said I
was insane as that at 60mph the fan was not needed. I told him, If the fan
clutch did not fix the problem I would personally pay for it (of course he
had replaced everything else). Well he was shocked to find it fixed the
problem. 

The thing he did not realize is that if the fan clutch is bad at highway
speeds the air from front of car will try to make fan turn backwards. The
engine will try to make it turn forward. The net result is fan stops and
blocks a lot of air flow. 

As far as how to check the fan clutch, here is what I do. Drive car to get
up to operating temperature. Turn car off and let sit for awhile, then open
hood and try to turn fan. What happens is the fan clutch has to get warm to
engage. Thus if the radiator is plugged up you do not get hot air on clutch
and as such it will never engage. However if you turn car off and let sit
the engine heat will get clutch hot and let it engage. This is a very simple
test and will kept you from replacing a good clutch due to bad radiator. Of
course if you are really anal you will use an IR temperature gun to measure
the temperature of the fan clutch before testing. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Brian Smyla
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 6:58 AM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

Thanks for the input, Kaleb and Jim.  

 

The aux fan runs, but apparently only when the A/C refrigerant pressure
rises above 325psi.  My hot running problem wasn't at idle, only at speed,
and even then, only under load (climbing a mild grade, speeds over 80mph,
etc..) when the ambient temperature is over 85 degrees F.  I will check to
make sure the radiator tubes aren't clogged ahead of the fan clutch, but I'm
fairly certain that's not the case.  I did drive the car again yesterday,
and the temp gauge never rose more than one needle width above 80.

 

I tried grounding both of the single wire sensors in the upper radiator hose
outlet on the head, but neither of them made the aux fan run.  Am I looking
in the wrong place for the sensor that cuts the fan in?  There's another
sensor mounted in that outlet, but it's a two wire sensor.  I'm assuming
that's not the correct one.

 

Thanks again!

 

-brian

 

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Re: [MBZ] SD run-hot update

[John Berryman]

On May 28, 2006, at 1:16 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


The same thing as thermostat seat erosion occurs when the thermostat
doesn't open fully. The thermostat is supposed to open 8+ mm (at 94  
deg

C in a 123) but often as they age (or overheat - even only once), they
only open 6-7 mm and that has the same effect as the seat eroding (the
bypass doesn't close fully).

Marshall


	I had one that would intermittently not open all the way and stick  
in the open position. There was a ring of some sort of deposits on  
the little shaft that the disc slides on. I cleaned it and it  
functioned as it should but that one went in the emergency spares bin  
and a new one was installed.
	I had another one from a 917.652 that was held open by a little  
chunk of aluminum. There are several ways that a thermostat can fail.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[Trampas]

Kaleb, 

That is a great way to do it! 

I replaced rear bushings in my 300SD using a cheap spring compressor. Of
course I am very safety minded so I always use a chain or cable to hold
spring compressed and to hold spring compressor in place. However it was
still a bit scary, thus I went ahead and ordered the correct tool
(hopefully) to do the front suspension. 

Note that I have had cheap spring compressors come off a spring once. Of
course I had the safety chain so it was not a problem.  Now if I am doing
struts I will take assembly to auto shop give mechanic $20 to swap struts
using wall mounted spring compressor. 

Trampas


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

Here is the secret okie method for compressing the springs, use by itself or

as a safety to using the cheap compressor.  Its called the come-a-long 
spring compressor.  Basically you get a couple of pairs of come-a-longs and 
let the cable out on them, run it down thru the certer hole above the spring

down toward the bottom and hook the hook on the spring.  Hook cable from on 
on one side of spring, cable on other side of spring.  If you cant get 2 
pairs in there just use one.  You can either use this as a safety while 
compressing with a cheap compressor, if just use it by itself.  Crank the 
come-a-longs down till you get it compressed enough to get it out, then 
slowly let the tension off.  You are doing this from the engine compartment 
btw.  I would not stand next to it though in case it does somehow let loose,

but you should be safe is you are above the engine compartment.  I have used

this method a few times on parts cars but never on a car I was putting back 
together, so proceed at your own risk.
- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor


>I have to confess I compressed some front 123 springs with cheap
> compressors, the only way I would do that again is to use at least 3 or 4 
> of
> them together. It worked with two but was a scary experience.
>
> Hendrik
> whose old 200 got dealt a death blow over the weekend
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 4:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor
>
>
>>> I need an internal coil spring compressor to do some work on my W126.
>>> Since
>>> this is the second or third time I have needed one I was going to
>>> purchase
>>> one. Does anyone have one for sale or a recommendation for cheap one?
>>
>> I got in on the group-buy Klann.  Not that cheap, but substantially
>> less than normal!  Compressed springs are a death trap, this is one
>> place I sprung (!) for the correct tool.  Good luck.
>>
>> -- Jim
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Brian Smyla]

Thanks for the input, Kaleb and Jim.  

 

The aux fan runs, but apparently only when the A/C refrigerant pressure
rises above 325psi.  My hot running problem wasn't at idle, only at speed,
and even then, only under load (climbing a mild grade, speeds over 80mph,
etc..) when the ambient temperature is over 85 degrees F.  I will check to
make sure the radiator tubes aren't clogged ahead of the fan clutch, but I'm
fairly certain that's not the case.  I did drive the car again yesterday,
and the temp gauge never rose more than one needle width above 80.

 

I tried grounding both of the single wire sensors in the upper radiator hose
outlet on the head, but neither of them made the aux fan run.  Am I looking
in the wrong place for the sensor that cuts the fan in?  There's another
sensor mounted in that outlet, but it's a two wire sensor.  I'm assuming
that's not the correct one.

 

Thanks again!

 

-brian

 

Re: [MBZ] Branson

[James Jetton]

Kaleb,
Prepare for the sales team onslaught.  I kid you not, these people are gonna 
try to pressure you into buying a time share.  Nothings free in this world, you 
just discovered what your trip cost you. Good luck, these are professional 
sales people. Sharks. Words that belong on Banned.


James Jetton
 1987 300SDL 144k
 1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke 173k
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor
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X-List-Received-Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 10:06:55 -

Just a question, is it possible to tighten/loosen a proper Merc spring 
compressor from the top with a socket and extension?

Hendrik
who is trying to talk himself into upgrading his tool collection

- Original Message - 
From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor


>I replaced the lower ball joints and upper control arms on my 300D Turbo
> using jacks, but like Hendrik, wouldn't do it again.
> Many years ago a mechanic in a shop in Gainesville had a spring compressor
> break.  The spring flew out and killed him.  After that, they put 
> compressed
> springs in the storeroom while doing repairs.
> Gerry Archer
> '83 300D and 240D
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>I have to confess I compressed some front 123 springs with cheap
>> compressors, the only way I would do that again is to use at least 3 or 4
>> of
>> them together. It worked with two but was a scary experience.
>> Hendrik
>> whose old 200 got dealt a death blow over the weekend
>
>
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> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.7.1/348 - Release Date: 25/05/2006
> 

Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor

[archer]

I replaced the lower ball joints and upper control arms on my 300D Turbo 
using jacks, but like Hendrik, wouldn't do it again.
Many years ago a mechanic in a shop in Gainesville had a spring compressor 
break.  The spring flew out and killed him.  After that, they put compressed 
springs in the storeroom while doing repairs.

Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have to confess I compressed some front 123 springs with cheap
compressors, the only way I would do that again is to use at least 3 or 4 
of

them together. It worked with two but was a scary experience.
Hendrik
whose old 200 got dealt a death blow over the weekend

Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Luther Gulseth]

Bet Regina is real happy right now.  Do you have backup transportation?  
Maybe instead of seeing shows, you need to get the SDL running correctly so 
you can get home.  Unless you expect that one of us will give you a ride 
home...

Luther


Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:

> Drove the SDL over to branson, will be here all week.  The damn thing 
> started acting up. First in the stop and go traffic it started running too 
> hot.  The aux fan would not kick in so I assume switch is bad, I just 
jumped 
> it to run all the time, so temp is fine now.  Then it started not wanting 
to 
> upshift when it should, and does not want to go into 4th.  Then all the 
> sudden the throttle did not rev the engine.  Pulled over, yep, linkage was 
> loose.  Discovered one of the ball joints totally worn out so it will not 
> stay on. Ended up taking the cruise linkage off and taking one of the 
cheapy 
> plastic ball joint things and fitting it onto the other linkage.  Works 
fine 
> now but still didnt solve my wierd tranny issue.  Fluid level is fine, not 
> burned or anthing.  Almost acts like the kickdown solinoid is stuck. Which 
> it could be I suppose.  It did this once before a while back but has not 
> done it since.  If you get up to speed if you put it in neutral then back 
to 
> drive it will fall down into 4th.  Anyway, stuck here in the tourist trap, 
> figuring out which shows are worth going to.  Anybody got any ideas? 
> 
> 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)

Re: [MBZ] so Im in Branson right now

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

That Dixie Stampede show is pretty neat, just make sure not to sit in 
the front row if you don't want manure in your supper.


There is an Oreilly auto parts just off the main drag east of  US 65 for 
getting generic fixin goodies ( remember that one from limping through 
that traffic jam with a bum alternator a few years ago :-)


--Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin, mobile wrote:
Drove the SDL over to branson, will be here all week.  The damn thing 
started acting up. First in the stop and go traffic it started running too 
hot.  The aux fan would not kick in so I assume switch is bad, I just jumped 
it to run all the time, so temp is fine now.  Then it started not wanting to 
upshift when it should, and does not want to go into 4th.  Then all the 
sudden the throttle did not rev the engine.  Pulled over, yep, linkage was 
loose.  Discovered one of the ball joints totally worn out so it will not 
stay on. Ended up taking the cruise linkage off and taking one of the cheapy 
plastic ball joint things and fitting it onto the other linkage.  Works fine 
now but still didnt solve my wierd tranny issue.  Fluid level is fine, not 
burned or anthing.  Almost acts like the kickdown solinoid is stuck. Which 
it could be I suppose.  It did this once before a while back but has not 
done it since.  If you get up to speed if you put it in neutral then back to 
drive it will fall down into 4th.  Anyway, stuck here in the tourist trap, 
figuring out which shows are worth going to.  Anybody got any ideas? 



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Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Jim Cathey]

things, but a 10 mile drive at 70MPH proved her right.  Turns out that 
the
fan clutch isn't locking up, and the airflow over the radiator with 
the A/C

running and the engine under a moderate load causes the coolant temp to
creep up to levels that I'm not comfortable with.


Many a clutch (expensive) has been replaced for no effect.  You must
be sure that everything else is running right before you can correctly
diagnose the clutch.  Feel the radiator behind the fan clutch, if it's
not hot-hot-hot the clutch is not _supposed_ to activate.  I replaced
a fan clutch, twice, when the real culprit was a clogged radiator.
Feel free to learn from our mistakes.  I used a coathanger to disable
the clutch on my overheating road trip.  It helped a bit, but was
no cure, which should have clued me in to the fact that it was _not_
the fan clutch at fault.  Wish I'd thought of the rubber donut though,
that sounds like a good idea for a temporary bandaid.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] a crack dealer

[Jim Cathey]

why would you buy them a coupe?  Come on, give em the wagon and make 
them
pick up your mulch.  No sense in giving them something that actually 
looks

cool.


A shaggin' wagon?  I'd be more worried about the ashes getting hauled
than the mulch.  I have a plan to remove all the extra seats from any
sedan my boy drives (at first).  Leave all the poky bits in there,
add a few if there aren't enough to suit me.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Jack Repair

[Jim Cathey]

I have an 20-year-old Allied (made in Taiwan) floor jack but it "leaks 
down"
while jacking, even with the valve closed.  I suspect that hydraulic 
fluid

is leaking past the o-ring seal on the main piston.


Why do you suspect that seal, rather than the (at least) two others
that could cause it?  (The release valve, or the ball check valve.)
At least try to remove the ball check valve system to look for a bit
of junk caught in it.  My CCPOS has an allen bolt that traps the two
BB's and the spring that comprise this valve.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 2.5 300D Idle Pulsing

[Jim Cathey]

It is getting worse in that it will pulse, (right term?), from 5 to 
1.1 on


Probably surge would be a better term.

the tachometer now.  When the a/c is on, it will stall out completely 
at
least once on an outing.   Was there a fix?  If I remember correctly 
it had
something to do with a gold screw (right term?) and is it a kit 
obtainable

from Rusty?


No such screw on the 60X engines.  Doesn't yours have the EDS system,
how does it behave?  Does it have the electronic idle speed setting
doodad like my SDL does?  If the idle setting system is sticky or has
a flakey contact it could well send itself into conniptions, and as
it overshoots on the low side the engine could stall.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] a crack dealer

[Craig McCluskey]

On Mon, 29 May 2006 10:13:56 +0930 "Hendrik Riessen"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Well if you are restoring a 123 to concours standard it would be an 
> attractive thing to lay your hands on.
> I would hate to think what MB would charge for one if you can get it
> from  them.

A black W123 console from Rusty is $440.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] '80 300SD in Nashville

[Sunil Hari]

no, just a jonesing for a good S-class diesel.  and it -looks- promising.
For $300.

On 5/28/06, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> anyone near this?  I might be interested.

>> http://nashville.craigslist.org/car/165522120.html

Sheesh Doc, you really do have this diesel addiction bad...

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474