date:20120602

I got my first 123 in 2002 and the tires were ~$65ea for cheapie onion skins.
This year I paid ~$110ea for decent Falkans, not the bottom of the line, not 
even just one step up but certainly nothing I'd be excited to point out to 
somebody. Its a 240D after all. So nearly twice the price but I did get better 
tires, IIRC the cheapie onion skins were something like $80ea.

Of course I make twice as much (maybe a little more) now as I did in 2002...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 20:29:16 -0400
From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] tire opinion
Message-ID: b97287ef-ad92-4219-8533-de8e09fe9...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

The 123 tires have gotten pricey too, since they are falling out of favor.

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jun 1, 2012, at 8:13, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Allan Streib wrote:
 Yeah but it seems that tires have not just gone up, they've about
 doubled since I last shopped (a couple of years ago).
 
 Seems that way, doesn't it?
 I just checked, my last order of 195/65-15 H rated Generals was $67.50 
 shipped in August of 2008.
 Now it's $87.25. If you factor in the $50 rebate I got, it's $55 vs $87.25.
 Not double, but still steep.
 What's double is going from 15 190D tires then to 16 E320 tires now.

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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

Interesting, ours hasn't been under $2/gal that I can remember since 2005. Of 
course I don't really pay attention to the price of gas, I may have missed it.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 21:44:55 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Petroleum prices [was: Re:  tire opinion]
Message-ID: 20120601214455.3d72f760.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 14:47:07 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Say what? Gas is under $4 now, some places probably under $3.50. 3
 years ago was 2009, gas has been over $2 at least since 2005 which is
 as far back as I have record of in my fuel economy spreadsheet. I know
 I have records back to 2003 somewhere. So no, fuel prices have NOT
 doubled in the last 2 years, in 2005 I paid $2.57/gal for diesel, today
 I'm looking at $3.79, only $1.22 increase.

My records say prices peaked around 13 Jul 08; regular was $4.089/gal and
diesel was $4.809/gal.

Prices dropped to $1.589/gal for regular and $2.329/gal for diesel on
29 Dec 08.

I'd attach a graph, but its larger than the 40 kilobyte approval limit
(about 180 kB, actually) and would delay things.

Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

Nice!

When was oil trading deregulated so you could buy large amounts of it without 
having to have storage capacity? If you look at the '94-'12 graph you can see 
the wild swings develop...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 00:16:34 -0500
From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices [was: Re:  tire opinion] 0yhe3y7a
Message-ID: bay0-p1-eas114b9040760fc0748eaa49dd...@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Jun 1, 2012, at 10:45 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 My records say prices peaked around 13 Jul 08; regular was $4.089/gal and
 diesel was $4.809/gal.

 Prices dropped to $1.589/gal for regular and $2.329/gal for diesel on
 29 Dec 08.

 I'd attach a graph, but its larger than the 40 kilobyte approval limit
 (about 180 kB, actually) and would delay things.

Here you go. 

http://www.eia.gov/dnav/pet/pet_pri_gnd_dcus_nus_w.htm

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

2012-06-02 Thread Dimitri Seretakis

It was under $2/gallon in 2009.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 2, 2012, at 7:26 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Interesting, ours hasn't been under $2/gal that I can remember since 2005. Of 
course I don't really pay attention to the price of gas, I may have missed it.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 21:44:55 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Petroleum prices [was: Re:  tire opinion]
Message-ID: 20120601214455.3d72f760.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 14:47:07 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Say what? Gas is under $4 now, some places probably under $3.50. 3
years ago was 2009, gas has been over $2 at least since 2005 which is
as far back as I have record of in my fuel economy spreadsheet. I know
I have records back to 2003 somewhere. So no, fuel prices have NOT
doubled in the last 2 years, in 2005 I paid $2.57/gal for diesel, today
I'm looking at $3.79, only $1.22 increase.

My records say prices peaked around 13 Jul 08; regular was $4.089/gal and
diesel was $4.809/gal.

Prices dropped to $1.589/gal for regular and $2.329/gal for diesel on
29 Dec 08.

I'd attach a graph, but its larger than the 40 kilobyte approval limit
(about 180 kB, actually) and would delay things.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

2012-06-02 Thread Jim Cathey

So no, fuel prices have NOT doubled in the last 2 years, in 2005 I 
paid $2.57/gal for diesel,


I bought my truck about 1999, I distinctly remember filling up
at $0.99/gallon, and getting change for a $20 bill.  So, fuel
_has_ quadrupled since then, I often don't get change for $100.
(A full-up would be about $150, here today.)

Same truck.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices [was: Re: tire opinion] 0yhe3y7a


I remember Diesel going over $5 in summer of 08
It really hurt.  I had been putting $20 in a 5 gallon can, and when 
that went under 4 gallons, I went to $25 to get around 4 gallons.  My 
recollection is that Diesel hit $5.239 or $5.259.  I think gasoline 
hit $4.999


I remember gasoline being $1.399 in Dec-Jan the following winter... 
Much nicer!





On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 14:47:07 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:


 Say what? Gas is under $4 now, some places probably under $3.50. 3
 years ago was 2009, gas has been over $2 at least since 2005 which is
 as far back as I have record of in my fuel economy spreadsheet. I know
 I have records back to 2003 somewhere. So no, fuel prices have NOT
 doubled in the last 2 years, in 2005 I paid $2.57/gal for diesel, today
 I'm looking at $3.79, only $1.22 increase.


My records say prices peaked around 13 Jul 08; regular was $4.089/gal and
diesel was $4.809/gal.

Prices dropped to $1.589/gal for regular and $2.329/gal for diesel on
29 Dec 08.

I'd attach a graph, but its larger than the 40 kilobyte approval limit
(about 180 kB, actually) and would delay things.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net writes:

 So no, fuel prices have NOT doubled in the last 2 years, in 2005 I
 paid $2.57/gal for diesel,

 I bought my truck about 1999, I distinctly remember filling up
 at $0.99/gallon, and getting change for a $20 bill.

In the late 1990s yes, we were still seeing  $1.00/gal.  Where I lived
at the time, near Joliet IL, there were two gas stations across the
street from each other that were in a constant price war.  I think once
they got down to $0.79 for part of a day.  By the time I got over
there it was back up to $0.91 I think.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

When prices are fluctuating, I try to dollar cost average.  Rather
than fill the tank, I buy a fixed dollar amount of fuel.  That way I end
up buying more fuel when it's cheaper, and less when it's expensive.

Of course when prices are trending mostly up it makes more sense to fill
up.  Sort of a guessing game.

Allan

Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes:

 I remember Diesel going over $5 in summer of 08
 It really hurt.  I had been putting $20 in a 5 gallon can, and when
 that went under 4 gallons, I went to $25 to get around 4 gallons.  My
 recollection is that Diesel hit $5.239 or $5.259.  I think gasoline
 hit $4.999

 I remember gasoline being $1.399 in Dec-Jan the following
 winter... Much nicer!


-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:

 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.


 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

Yeah, the 99 cent days were nice.  I remember thinking there would be a war
if the price of diesel went higher than $1.25.  Truckers did march in
Washington when the prices really got high after Katrina...



On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 11:23 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 When prices are fluctuating, I try to dollar cost average.  Rather
 than fill the tank, I buy a fixed dollar amount of fuel.  That way I end
 up buying more fuel when it's cheaper, and less when it's expensive.

 Of course when prices are trending mostly up it makes more sense to fill
 up.  Sort of a guessing game.

 Allan

 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes:

  I remember Diesel going over $5 in summer of 08
  It really hurt.  I had been putting $20 in a 5 gallon can, and when
  that went under 4 gallons, I went to $25 to get around 4 gallons.  My
  recollection is that Diesel hit $5.239 or $5.259.  I think gasoline
  hit $4.999
 
  I remember gasoline being $1.399 in Dec-Jan the following
  winter... Much nicer!
 

 --
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

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[MBZ] Fwd: Re: Petroleum prices 0yhe3y7a

2012-06-02 Thread Rich Thomas

 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices
Date:   Sat, 02 Jun 2012 13:39:13 -0400
From:   Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com

If y'all have a Costco nearby I find the prices at ours to be anywhere
from 2-3cents a gallon cheaper than the cheapest local station, was
9cents on Th when I topped off.  They have some deal where if you have
their Amex card I think you get another 2 or 3 discount.  I have the
Executive membership, which costs $100/yr but you get back a
percentage of your spending there.  The last 3 yr I have gotten back $75
or $80 or so, which makes that membership less than the basic one.
Someone there told me too that if I did not get enough back just through
that process, come see the desk and they would issue me credits or
something to make it work.

SC has the lowest gas taxes in the country, and most of the time the
lowest gas prices.  When you cross the border to NC price jumps about
20c a gallon.  Then the further north into nannyland it gets even more
expensive.

---R

On 6/2/12 1:23 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

 When prices are fluctuating, I try to dollar cost average.  Rather
 than fill the tank, I buy a fixed dollar amount of fuel.  That way I end
 up buying more fuel when it's cheaper, and less when it's expensive.

 Of course when prices are trending mostly up it makes more sense to fill
 up.  Sort of a guessing game.

 Allan

 Dieselhead126die...@gmail.com   writes:

 I remember Diesel going over $5 in summer of 08
 It really hurt.  I had been putting $20 in a 5 gallon can, and when
 that went under 4 gallons, I went to $25 to get around 4 gallons.  My
 recollection is that Diesel hit $5.239 or $5.259.  I think gasoline
 hit $4.999

 I remember gasoline being $1.399 in Dec-Jan the following
 winter... Much nicer!

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

2012-06-02 Thread Rich Thomas


Maybe those springs?

--R

On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:


I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:


Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting -
it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try
to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think changing
the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are
cast iron.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

Maybe those springs?

--R

On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
wrote:

I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem
has
been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

2012-06-02 Thread Rich Thomas

Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely
full of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust. That would
most likely be at the top.

--R

On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

Maybe those springs?

--R

On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com

wrote:

I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The

bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem
has
been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Petroleum prices 0yhe3y7a

The Costco Amex cards gets you 3% on gas purchases up to $3000 year then it
drops to 1% (but not at Costco IIRC), 3% on restaurants including fast
food, 2% on travel, and 1% on everything else. The membership is $55/year
and $110/year for executive level which gets you 2% on Costco purchases
redeemable in the form of more purchases at Costco. In the past I have
tried Costco gas and it didn't run very well in my Jeep. Valero/Diamond
Shamrock works the best in my Jeep.

Costco is a good place to buy big screen TV's and some other things, but
most of the time I want a model or variety of something they don't have, so
membership there has limited value to me. I just don't need 3 big bottles
of Heinz ketchup or crates of bread. Some people like them for tires, but
I can get the same pricing and a lot more locations from Discount Tire.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:38 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

Original Message
Subject:Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices
Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2012 13:39:13 -0400
From: Rich Thomas
richthomas79TD300@**constructivity.netrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com

If y'all have a Costco nearby I find the prices at ours to be anywhere
from 2-3cents a gallon cheaper than the cheapest local station, was
9cents on Th when I topped off. They have some deal where if you have
their Amex card I think you get another 2 or 3 discount. I have the
Executive membership, which costs $100/yr but you get back a
percentage of your spending there. The last 3 yr I have gotten back $75
or $80 or so, which makes that membership less than the basic one.
Someone there told me too that if I did not get enough back just through
that process, come see the desk and they would issue me credits or
something to make it work.

SC has the lowest gas taxes in the country, and most of the time the
lowest gas prices. When you cross the border to NC price jumps about
20c a gallon. Then the further north into nannyland it gets even more
expensive.

---R

On 6/2/12 1:23 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

When prices are fluctuating, I try to dollar cost average. Rather
than fill the tank, I buy a fixed dollar amount of fuel. That way I end
up buying more fuel when it's cheaper, and less when it's expensive.

Of course when prices are trending mostly up it makes more sense to fill
up. Sort of a guessing game.

Allan

Dieselhead126die...@gmail.com** writes:

I remember Diesel going over $5 in summer of 08
It really hurt. I had been putting $20 in a 5 gallon can, and when
that went under 4 gallons, I went to $25 to get around 4 gallons. My
recollection is that Diesel hit $5.239 or $5.259. I think gasoline
hit $4.999

I remember gasoline being $1.399 in Dec-Jan the following
winter... Much nicer!

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

That is what I am thinking.

Some of the black grit I've found in the coolant may be the old head gasket
from when I paid a mechanic to R/R the head. The Jeep had a weird severe
misfiring problem that turned out to be low compression from faulty exhaust
valves. I believe it was isolated to 2000-2001 model years when Jeep
changed the valve springs for emissions

The rust may have formed when the engine was apart when the mechanic worked
on it. I was in no hurry and he had it apart for about 4 months.

The other unusual thing about this Jeep is that the original owner
purchased it from the dealer with a skunky expansion tank. He bought it
late in the model year and it was one of the last ones they made. He also
told me, IIRC, that it was best to leave it near empty to prevent it from
overflowing. Since I've replaced the thermostat and flushed it out, it
doesn't seem to have that problem anymore.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 1:08 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely full
of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust. That would most likely
be at the top.

--R

On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting
-
it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try
to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think
changing
the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are
cast iron.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79TD300@**constructivity.netrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net
wrote:

Maybe those springs?

--R

On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise,
what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the
top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower
radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from
if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.
combrian.tosc...@gmail.com

wrote:

I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
wrote:

Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

Interesting the spread, I've never seen diesel over $4.99.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 07:51:26 -0500
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices [was: Re:  tire opinion] 0yhe3y7a
Message-ID: a062408a2cbefbcbd1a7d@[192.168.1.109]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed

I remember Diesel going over $5 in summer of 08
It really hurt.  I had been putting $20 in a 5 gallon can, and when 
that went under 4 gallons, I went to $25 to get around 4 gallons.  My 
recollection is that Diesel hit $5.239 or $5.259.  I think gasoline 
hit $4.999

I remember gasoline being $1.399 in Dec-Jan the following winter... 
Much nicer!

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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's will to 80 mph

2012-06-02 Thread Mitch Haley


Larry T wrote:
After a recent incident in my 91 300D I am even more skeptical of these 
unintended accelerations.


Any decent car should be able to keep all four wheels near the point of lockup 
from top speed to zero without the engine working against them. Are some engines 
more powerful than the brakes I just described? Maybe, in some extreme cases.


I think the problem comes when you want to go 75, and the engine wants to go 
full speed, so foolishly you use the brakes to keep it down to some speed you 
can tolerate, like 85mph. After a mile or so of that, the brakes are too hot to 
do any good, and your speed starts climbing uncontrollably again. The moral of 
that story is that if the car is trying to kill you, get it stopped ASAP.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices

That'd be about the time many of today's tax incentives for the oil industry 
were put into place, back when oil was around the $10 mark.

So gas has gone up 4x but oil has gone up 9 or 10x.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2012 13:21:06 -0400
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Petroleum prices
Message-ID: m1k3zppr3x@cs.indiana.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net writes:

 So no, fuel prices have NOT doubled in the last 2 years, in 2005 I
 paid $2.57/gal for diesel,

 I bought my truck about 1999, I distinctly remember filling up
 at $0.99/gallon, and getting change for a $20 bill.

In the late 1990s yes, we were still seeing  $1.00/gal.  Where I lived
at the time, near Joliet IL, there were two gas stations across the
street from each other that were in a constant price war.  I think once
they got down to $0.79 for part of a day.  By the time I got over
there it was back up to $0.91 I think.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] chains excite me

Optimistic in what way? With regular oil changes, chains can last a very
long time and hundreds of thousands of miles is not uncommon. My Cummins
engines were gear driven and those normally don't need to be replaced
either. If the previous owners abused the engines then all bets are off.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:33 AM, Hendrik Fay heni...@ozemail.com.auwrote:

Timing belt life is generally 100k kilometers.
The chain life of the single M102 engines is the same, plus the guides and
tensioners like to crap out too, so inspection is a must every now and then.

Hendrik
who is due to change the timing belt in the Izuzu.

On 01/06/12 11:48, relng...@aol.com wrote:

...No, but its a pain to have to change a timing belt every 100,000 miles
for
$500+ when a chain could last 300,000 - 1,000,000 miles...

Having read hundreds of posts about timing chains here and elsewhere
over
the last 15 years or so, I do believe your mileage life figures are just a
wee bit optimistic.

Same for timing belts. On a non-interference engine it does not make much
difference as long as you don't mind hitchiking. As to the rest, the
engine
can be destroyed and no sane person would go anywhere near 100K miles.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] gassy

2012-06-02 Thread RELNGSON

 ...Say what? Gas is under $4 now, some places probably under $3.50...
 
Maybe in your part of the country. Premium just sank down to $4.49.9 here 
and most attended stations are as much as two bits more. Diesel too.

RLE/Seattle

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Re: [MBZ] gassy

2012-06-02 Thread G Mann

Interesting thing about Seattle, there is a very large refinery not far
from you, yet fuel prices in Washington state are always some of the
highest in the nation.

Why is that?  www.gaspricewatch.com ... type in your location or zip code
and pull up local current prices and time since last reported for
individual stations should you wish to do so.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 1:56 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

  ...Say what? Gas is under $4 now, some places probably under $3.50...
 
 Maybe in your part of the country. Premium just sank down to $4.49.9 here
 and most attended stations are as much as two bits more. Diesel too.

 RLE/Seattle

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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's will to 80 mph

2012-06-02 Thread G Mann

Key off anyone??? Run away car try turning the key off... or put
transmission in neutral... then brakes... let the engine blow up.. so
what much less painful than hitting the concrete barrier at
Mach-a-lot...

Or does anyone actually drive a car these days?

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:45 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

Larry T wrote:

After a recent incident in my 91 300D I am even more skeptical of these
unintended accelerations.

Any decent car should be able to keep all four wheels near the point of
lockup from top speed to zero without the engine working against them. Are
some engines more powerful than the brakes I just described? Maybe, in some
extreme cases.

I think the problem comes when you want to go 75, and the engine wants to
go full speed, so foolishly you use the brakes to keep it down to some
speed you can tolerate, like 85mph. After a mile or so of that, the brakes
are too hot to do any good, and your speed starts climbing uncontrollably
again. The moral of that story is that if the car is trying to kill you,
get it stopped ASAP.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's will to 80 mph

2012-06-02 Thread Mitch Haley


G Mann wrote:

Key off anyone???  Run away car try turning the key off... or put
transmission in neutral... then brakes... let the engine blow up.. so
what much less painful than hitting the concrete barrier at
Mach-a-lot...


Some cars, the ignition and/or engine stop button just send a request to the 
computer. Same for the shift lever.


That's why I like three pedal cars, as long as the clutch pedal operates a cable 
or hydraulic cylinder. Unless I have a simultaneous throttle and clutch failure, 
I can always make the drivetrain cease and desist.


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Re: [MBZ] gassy

Part of the reason is that Washington State has a high fuel tax.  The price
drops as soon as you cross into Idaho or Oregon.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 3:09 PM, G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 Interesting thing about Seattle, there is a very large refinery not far
 from you, yet fuel prices in Washington state are always some of the
 highest in the nation.

 Why is that?  www.gaspricewatch.com ... type in your location or zip code
 and pull up local current prices and time since last reported for
 individual stations should you wish to do so.


 On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 1:56 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

   ...Say what? Gas is under $4 now, some places probably under $3.50...
  
  Maybe in your part of the country. Premium just sank down to $4.49.9 here
  and most attended stations are as much as two bits more. Diesel too.
 
  RLE/Seattle
 
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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's will to 80 mph

Was looking at the new lineup of Priuses.  Sales lady was trying to sell me 
a 2009 with seven years gaurantee on the battery and 100K on the car.  I 
suggested that her price was high considering that
the 2009 was in the group that had runaway problems.  She said that all one 
must do is take it out of gear and put on the brake if the engine runs away 
but that the problem had been fixed, blah, blah, blah.  Don't know if the 
2009 had a mechanical connection to the transmission or not; probably not.
I'm surprised that some of the computer professionals on the list haven't 
bought a hybrid since they could probably diagnose and fix a highly 
computerized car.  I've often thought about buying a used one, mostly in 
order to have something to play with besides these klatterers, but the used 
prices seem to stay high.
Gerrywho believes that the only difference between men and boys is the 
size of their toys.




G Mann wrote:

Key off anyone???  Run away car try turning the key off... or put
transmission in neutral... then brakes... let the engine blow up.. so
what much less painful than hitting the concrete barrier at
Mach-a-lot...


Some cars, the ignition and/or engine stop button just send a request to 
the computer. Same for the shift lever.
That's why I like three pedal cars, as long as the clutch pedal operates a 
cable or hydraulic cylinder. Unless I have a simultaneous throttle and 
clutch failure, I can always make the drivetrain cease and desist.
Mitch 



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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's will to 80 mph

Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com writes:

 I'm surprised that some of the computer professionals on the list
 haven't bought a hybrid since they could probably diagnose and fix a
 highly computerized car.

Speaking for myself, as a computer professional, I prefer my cars to be
manually operated.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's will to 80 mph

2012-06-02 Thread Dan Penoff

Agreed.

Dan also computer professional


On Jun 2, 2012, at 7:06 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

 Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com writes:
 
 I'm surprised that some of the computer professionals on the list
 haven't bought a hybrid since they could probably diagnose and fix a
 highly computerized car.
 
 Speaking for myself, as a computer professional, I prefer my cars to be
 manually operated.
 
 Allan
 -- 
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD
 
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

2012-06-02 Thread ernest breakfield

since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses, 
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the 
air in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and 
causing corrosion there.

replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the 
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til 
it's clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until 
fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by 
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.



cheers!
e

'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)


On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:


I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:


Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's will to 80 mph

2012-06-02 Thread G Mann

Relax. the circuit board you trust with your life at 85 MPH was built
by $4 a week skilled labor in China, with quality controls what could
possibly go wrong

You know.. by the same company that was the lowest bidder for the contract
that builds all the electric oil pumps... besides.. .. if enough people die
and profits fall... the communist party chief will execute the plant
supervisor we are safe

Aren't we?? [ Hope Q lives forever and stocks parts to keep my old
antique manual control Mercedes running forever

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 2:23 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

G Mann wrote:

Some cars, the ignition and/or engine stop button just send a request to
the computer. Same for the shift lever.

That's why I like three pedal cars, as long as the clutch pedal operates a
cable or hydraulic cylinder. Unless I have a simultaneous throttle and
clutch failure, I can always make the drivetrain cease and desist.

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Re: [MBZ] tire opinion

2012-06-02 Thread OK Don

Not without nationalizing the petroleum industrry. Want to move to Venzuela?
The oil industry does not know national borders -

On Fri, Jun 1, 2012 at 2:21 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

  with an halfway decent energy plan this country could be energy
 independent in a few years...

 LarryT
 91 300D


 On 6/1/2012 8:17 AM, Gerry Archer wrote:



  Craig diese...@pisquared.net writes:

 I'm shocked at how much the price of tires has gone up the past
 couple of years.


 Everything is going up. When you get all those extra trillions of
 dollars our children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren have been
 obligated to pay chasing the same amount of goods, the price of things
 has to go up.


 Yeah but it seems that tires have not just gone up, they've about
 doubled since I last shopped (a couple of years ago).
 Allan
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

  Tire Rack and similar websites seem to have the best prices, but around
 here at least, the dealers  charge higher prices for mounting the mailorder
 tires such that little or nothing is saved by ordering them.
 I've seen several simple tire changing machines at Harbor Freight and
 other sources.  Have you or others had any experience with them?  I seem to
 remember prices in the $150 range for the machines which would be paid for
 after mounting two sets of tires. Balancing can be done by using a hub
 clamped in a vice and lubricated with very light oil.  Did that in years
 gone by.
 Gerry



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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

Ernest,

I have thought the same thing. After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing. What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty? Are they made of steel or iron and
not copper? Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?

I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!

My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months. I suspect the hoses may continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant. What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem. If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace hoses that are otherwise
good.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:

since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.

cheers!
e

'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)

On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
wrote:

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

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Re: [MBZ] gassy

Holy crap, is that tax or delivery cost or what? Diesel is under $4 here now, 
premium would be $0.10 or so less than that...

Taxachusetts huh?

-Curt

Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 16:56:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: relng...@aol.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] gassy
Message-ID: 30d9.611ce39e.3cfbd...@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 ...Say what? Gas is under $4 now, some places probably under $3.50...

Maybe in your part of the country. Premium just sank down to $4.49.9 here 
and most attended stations are as much as two bits more. Diesel too.

RLE/Seattle

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Re: [MBZ] tire opinion

OK Don okd...@gmail.com writes:

 Not without nationalizing the petroleum industrry. Want to move to Venzuela?
 The oil industry does not know national borders -

Yet if we produced as much or more than we consume, we ould not be held
hostage to oil 


 On Fri, Jun 1, 2012 at 2:21 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

  with an halfway decent energy plan this country could be energy
 independent in a few years...

 LarryT
 91 300D


 On 6/1/2012 8:17 AM, Gerry Archer wrote:



  Craig diese...@pisquared.net writes:

 I'm shocked at how much the price of tires has gone up the past
 couple of years.


 Everything is going up. When you get all those extra trillions of
 dollars our children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren have been
 obligated to pay chasing the same amount of goods, the price of things
 has to go up.


 Yeah but it seems that tires have not just gone up, they've about
 doubled since I last shopped (a couple of years ago).
 Allan
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

  Tire Rack and similar websites seem to have the best prices, but around
 here at least, the dealers  charge higher prices for mounting the mailorder
 tires such that little or nothing is saved by ordering them.
 I've seen several simple tire changing machines at Harbor Freight and
 other sources.  Have you or others had any experience with them?  I seem to
 remember prices in the $150 range for the machines which would be paid for
 after mounting two sets of tires. Balancing can be done by using a hub
 clamped in a vice and lubricated with very light oil.  Did that in years
 gone by.
 Gerry



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-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] tire opinion

OK Don okd...@gmail.com writes:

 Not without nationalizing the petroleum industrry. Want to move to Venzuela?
 The oil industry does not know national borders -

Oops hit the send key before I was done

Yet if we produced as much or more than we consume, we could not be held
hostage by oil exporting countries.  If they tried, we could always
declare a national emergency and use our own oil.

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's willto 80 mph


I remember when many mechanics felt the same way about hydraulic brakes.
Gerrywho had a '35 Chevy with mechanical brakes


Agreed.
Dan also computer professional


On Jun 2, 2012, at 7:06 PM, Allan Streib wrote:


Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com writes:


I'm surprised that some of the computer professionals on the list
haven't bought a hybrid since they could probably diagnose and fix a
highly computerized car.


Speaking for myself, as a computer professional, I prefer my cars to be
manually operated.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD



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[MBZ] OCR recommendation

Can someone suggest a simple and reliable OCR program that will work on 
Windows XP
using a Canon mp250 printer?  Have a stack of printouts by Marshall I'd like 
to put on disc.

Thanks,
Gerry 



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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

My Dodge heater core wouldn't put out any heat at all.  I backflushed it 
with a garden hose for ten or fifteen minutes and the heater then worked 
well until it went to the crusher.

Gerry

From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com

Ernest,
I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed 
the

system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron 
and

not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?

I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!

My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue 
to

shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are 
otherwise

good.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield 
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:



since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and 
causing

corrosion there.
   replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

   i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully 
clear.

   then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)

On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
 What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, 
what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured 
clean

water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the 
engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and 
rust-free.

 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the 
top

of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower 
radiator

hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from 
if

the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com

wrote:

 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron 
block

and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:

 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD



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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) beja4a3y

2012-06-02 Thread Dan Penoff


Most likely your heater core is copper, or possibly aluminum.

I had a similar situation on a W126 (300SD) I once owned.

When I bought it the owner had just put a radiator on it within the =
year.  When I inspected the coolant it was brown and rusty colored.  =
Figuring that it just needed a good flush and a return to MB coolant, I =
removed it, flushed it and the cooling system, and installed the correct =
coolant. I would add that I also replaced hoses, as the hoses had a =
nasty accumulation of brown discoloration in them that I can only =
suspect was rust.

Within a matter of weeks I started having problems with the temperatures =
rising if the car was moving more than about 40-50 mph.  As soon as I =
crossed that threshold, the temperature would climb a good 10-15 degrees =
above the proper 82F or thereabouts.

Anyway, I removed the radiator and took it to a trusted shop.  The core =
was plugged in the very center but what they said was rust.  Where it =
came from, I have no idea.  When I flushed and refilled the system the =
coolant remained the proper honey color that MB coolant is.

Apparently the core was already clogged, but since I bought the car in =
the winter (relatively speaking) the problem didn't manifest itself =
until the ambient temps got up relatively high.  I can only suspect that =
they were running straight water in the system, and it caused the block =
to rust, as it's the only part in the system that could do so.

Point being, flush the system for sure.  Whether or not you'll continue =
to see the rust/crud in the system is questionable. I doubt it's your =
heater core.

Dan


 From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 Ernest,
 I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
 system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
 radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
 on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron and
 not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
 core?
 
 I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
 that it may spring a leak!
 
 My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
 coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue to
 shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
 something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
 with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are otherwise
 good.
 
 On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield 
 erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
 
 since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
 odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
 in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
 corrosion there.
   replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
 
   i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
 garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
 clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
   then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
 filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
 cheers!
 e
 '85 300D(200K+)
 '94 XJ(240K+)
 
 On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
 Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
 What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
 
 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
 
 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.
 
 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
 Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.
 
 
 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at

Re: [MBZ] gassy

Gasoline is $3.249/gal. last I checked.  It is under $3.50 in most of 
the civilized parts of the country, and based on crude prices should 
be under 3 bucks.


Too bad you live in Kollyfonya north in place of the civilized world.



  ...Say what? Gas is under $4 now, some places probably under $3.50...



Maybe in your part of the country. Premium just sank down to $4.49.9 here
and most attended stations are as much as two bits more. Diesel too.

RLE/Seattle


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Re: [MBZ] gassy

Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes:

 Gasoline is $3.249/gal. last I checked.  It is under $3.50 in most of
 the civilized parts of the country, and based on crude prices should
 be under 3 bucks.

 Too bad you live in Kollyfonya north in place of the civilized world.

3.65 here.  But our prices are always among the highest in the state,
and at least $0.20 - $0.30 more than the lowest prices nationally.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] gassy

2012-06-02 Thread Craig

On Sat, 2 Jun 2012 20:27:06 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Gasoline is $3.249/gal. last I checked.  It is under $3.50 in most of 
 the civilized parts of the country, and based on crude prices should 
 be under 3 bucks.

It went down to 3.589/gal here this past week.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Hyundai Sonata suddenly accelerates against driver's will to 80 mph

Some cars, the ignition and/or engine stop 
button just send a request to the computer. Same 
for the shift lever.




I think a big red Emergency shutoff pushbutton 
switch should be mounted in the center of the 
steering wheel of those POS fly by wire 
vehicles.   Another reason I don't want a toada. 
If I owned one of those, I'd put an emergency 
shutoff push and lock switch within easy reach.


Dirtbikes used to have a bracelet you wore.  If 
you left the bike, the bracelet pulled a pin and 
that killed the ignition.  Too bad all these 
programmer geniuses in the auto industry can't 
think of a similar system.  If they ever do, it 
will be overcomplicated, and cost $1832 per car. 
It ought to cost under $10 and be simple.


Funny they gummit makes filling stations have an 
emergency shutoff, but a 4000 lb missile flying 
under fly by wire needs no safety.  Every 
industrial machine has to have an emergency 
shutoff and a manual disconnect within easy 
reach, or requires two hands in position before 
the drive will engage, and while the machine is 
operating, but not even a 25¢ switch for cars.



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Re: [MBZ] gassy


Part of the reason is that Washington State has a high fuel tax.  The price
drops as soon as you cross into Idaho or Oregon.



That is what I was getting at.  The HIGH FUEL TAX is the result of 
all the kollyfonyuns who moved to North Kollyfonya (formerly known as 
Washington) then demanded it be turned into the peepels republik of 
North Kollyfunya, with all the resultant high taxes.

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Re: [MBZ] gassy