Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT: SSD drive recommendations

[Tim C]

On Jul 2, 2012 1:23 AM, "dave walton"  wrote:

I have an OCZ SSD in my net book, now running Ubuntu.  So far no complaints
once they fixed the firmware, after 6 months or so, but it is not a
computer we use a lot. Definitely the best upgrade for that computer as far
as battery life and quiet operation.

> There is a protocol that aligns the block size used by the OS with the
> block size used by the drive. This can minimize writes depending on
> the application.

For the Linux install, you will use fdisk and then disable swap.  It's not
hard you just have to know to do it.  There are Ubuntu forum posts on it,
which will apply equally to other distributions; if you don't find them ask
and I'll look up my bookmarks.

Better/newer drives take care of this, but in the cheap classes it's the
price we pay.

> Not sure if the wear leveling realignment utilities are generally
> released. You can probably find them somewhere. Increasing the number
> of blocks allocated to wear leveling spreads the pain so to speak.

I disagree here, the manufacturer is going to have allocated the optimum
number to minimize warranty claims already; we don't have the history to
know what a change might do, even if you bump up you may be crossing
boundaries and increasing drive wear, and it's not like manufacturers
aren't advertising that space.  I think you're better off leaving this
alone and worrying about your backup solution.

Best,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] Pagoda (280SL) drain plugs?

[Dieselhead]

Can't give you the car now that it's fixed but I would have thought 
about it when I was getting overwhelmed with problems:)


Sent from my iPhone


Aww Shucks!  Missed out on another drool car.

Looks like I am buying another SDL instead.   not a drool car.  But 
my first SDL was a drool car.


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[MBZ] 11 Months, 3000 pictures and a lot of coffee

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daVDrGsaDME




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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Kevin Slater]

You CAN drain the torque converter(s?), but it's a total pain in the neck.
On Jun 28, 2012 10:54 PM, "Dave Walton"  wrote:

> If the fluid you drain is in really bad shape, consider doing a few
> changes with cheap ATF on  1-2k mile intervals before you use M1. That's
> only if you can drain the torque converter too. On that car you can.
>
> -Dave Walton
>
> On Jun 28, 2012, at 10:39 PM, Max Dillon 
> wrote:
>
> > I'd say change the fluid and filter, use M1 ATF, and let that work for
> 10k miles.  That cleaned up / improved my wagons transmission behavior
> immensely.
> >
> >
> > Alex Chamberlain  wrote:
> >
> >> On Jun 28, 2012 7:02 PM, "Max Dillon" 
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Congrats again!
> >>> --
> >>
> >> Ditto.  I'm a little worried about the transmission needing more than
> >> just
> >> vacuum work but other than that it sounds like Kevin made a pretty good
> >> score.
> >>
> >>
> > --
> > Max Dillon
> > Charleston SC
> > '95 E300, '87 300TD
> >
> > ___
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Kevin Slater]

Yes! Congratulations! Ever since I heard the list extol about the engine in
that wagon, I wanted one. Loved mine while I had it. Ended up trading it to
an artist for a Vespa and some cash. Now I need to get the Vespa on the
road!
On Jun 28, 2012 10:02 PM, "Max Dillon"  wrote:

> Congrats again!
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Dave Walton]

There is only one torque converter. Turn the crankshaft until the recessed hex 
plug is visible through the bottom window and have at it. As long as you 
remember to remove your socket wrench from the bottom crank bolt before 
starting the vehicle you will be fine. 

"Transmission service" sold by auto shops is bullshit. If you don't drain the 
TC you are only changing half the fluid. 

My 99E300 has no drain on the TC. Until a few years ago the dealer told me it 
was "lifetime" fluid and never needed changing. After transmissions started 
failing they changed policy. I suck ATF from the topside and fill with M1 each 
oil change. 

-Dave Walton


On Jun 29, 2012, at 9:43 AM, Kevin Slater  wrote:

> You CAN drain the torque converter(s?), but it's a total pain in the neck.
> On Jun 28, 2012 10:54 PM, "Dave Walton"  wrote:
> 
>> If the fluid you drain is in really bad shape, consider doing a few
>> changes with cheap ATF on  1-2k mile intervals before you use M1. That's
>> only if you can drain the torque converter too. On that car you can.
>> 
>> -Dave Walton
>> 
>> On Jun 28, 2012, at 10:39 PM, Max Dillon 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> I'd say change the fluid and filter, use M1 ATF, and let that work for
>> 10k miles.  That cleaned up / improved my wagons transmission behavior
>> immensely.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Alex Chamberlain  wrote:
>>> 
 On Jun 28, 2012 7:02 PM, "Max Dillon" 
 wrote:
> 
> Congrats again!
> --
 
 Ditto.  I'm a little worried about the transmission needing more than
 just
 vacuum work but other than that it sounds like Kevin made a pretty good
 score.
 
 
>>> --
>>> Max Dillon
>>> Charleston SC
>>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> 
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>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Allan Streib]

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012, at 09:43 AM, Kevin Slater wrote:

> You CAN drain the torque converter(s?), but it's a total pain in the neck.

Not if they have a drain plug, which most of the older ones do.  Not sure when 
this stopped being the norm, I'd guess when they developed "lifetime" sealed 
transmissions.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Dan Penoff]

It's not that difficult.

You just need to remove the cover plate and bar the engine over until the hex 
plug lines up with the opening.

You're only getting about half the fluid out if you don't drain the converter.

Dan

On Jul 2, 2012, at 11:28 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> On Fri, Jun 29, 2012, at 09:43 AM, Kevin Slater wrote:
> 
>> You CAN drain the torque converter(s?), but it's a total pain in the neck.
> 
> Not if they have a drain plug, which most of the older ones do.  Not sure 
> when this stopped being the norm, I'd guess when they developed "lifetime" 
> sealed transmissions.
> 
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Kevin Slater]

On Jun 29, 2012 9:43 AM, "Kevin Slater"  wrote:

> You CAN drain the torque converter(s?), but it's a total pain in the neck.
> On Jun 28, 2012 10:54 PM, "Dave Walton"  wrote:
>
>> If the fluid you drain is in really bad shape, consider doing a few
>> changes with cheap ATF on  1-2k mile intervals before you use M1. That's
>> only if you can drain the torque converter too. On that car you can.
>>
>> -Dave Walton
>>
>> On Jun 28, 2012, at 10:39 PM, Max Dillon 
>> wrote:
>>
>> > I'd say change the fluid and filter, use M1 ATF, and let that work for
>> 10k miles.  That cleaned up / improved my wagons transmission behavior
>> immensely.
>> >
>> >
>> > Alex Chamberlain  wrote:
>> >
>> >> On Jun 28, 2012 7:02 PM, "Max Dillon" 
>> >> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Congrats again!
>> >>> --
>> >>
>> >> Ditto.  I'm a little worried about the transmission needing more than
>> >> just
>> >> vacuum work but other than that it sounds like Kevin made a pretty good
>> >> score.
>> >>
>> >>
>> > --
>> > Max Dillon
>> > Charleston SC
>> > '95 E300, '87 300TD
>> >
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
>> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
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>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: SSD drive recommendations

[Jim Cathey]

I thought the current generation of SSDs had the wear-leveling built 
in,

so that filesystems didn't have to worry about it.


Just like sealed-for-life bearings, and now transmissions,
the life of your SSD is now defined by the quality of the
wear-leveling, etc.  Too bad if your filesystem thinks it
can write with zero consequences!

Wear leveling or not, I could design a filesystem that
would probably fail in a matter of weeks.

Best, by far, would be a filesystem that was actually
designed to mesh with the characteristics of flash memory!


the manufacturer is going to have allocated the optimum
number to minimize warranty claims already


Is the service life of your equipment defined by the
warranty period?  Is a failure, covered under warrantee
or not, going to be of any inconvenience to you?

The wear-leveling mechanisms of these drives are, I believe
optimized entirely for Windows filesystems.  I don't believe
they offer a way to bypass this automatic layer, for filesystems
that think they can do better.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Someone needs this

[andrew strasfogel]

What a great idea!  My problem would be an inability to fight off the
urge to sample the wines at every stop...

On 7/1/12, Michael Canfield  wrote:
> I want one to do wine tours, big money in wine and carting folks around to
> indulge around here.  A "green" biodiesel powered limo would have all of
> the "fruits and nuts" from Ithaca wanting to ride around and drink wine.
>
> Too bad it is so far away, would take a looon time to go get
> that one with the Deuce.
>
> Mike
> On Jul 1, 2012 10:22 AM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:
>
>> Looks like my former 123LWB in far worse condition.  I see they had one
>> of
>> the jump seats out - I wonder what the rear compartment looks like.
>>
>> At least this one had AC - mine didn't which made it pretty unbearable to
>> drive down here.
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>> On Jul 1, 2012, at 10:06 AM, Craig wrote:
>>
>> > On Sun, 1 Jul 2012 05:03:18 -0500 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1978-Mercedes-Benz-300D-Mini-Limo-/221060275174?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3378381be6#ht_656wt_944
>> >>
>> >> 300D limo in Lost Wages
>> >
>> > "Someone needs this"
>> >
>> > Not me. :-)
>> >
>> >
>> > Craig
>> >
>> > ___
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>> >
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[MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at 0800 and 
helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  I'll make some fine adjustments to 
latch and hinge bolts early tomorrow morning (before it gets too hot) for 
perfect fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max for your help.

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

BTW, If I had known about the little clips on the hinge arms and matching 
slots on the trunk lid to hold it in place for bolt installation, I probably 
would have tried the R & R by myself, but I wasn't sure enough that it would 
work that way.  I couldn't take a chance on the lid slipping and breaking 
rear window or damaging fender paint.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "WILTON" 

To: "mercedes list" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:12 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid


The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at 0800 
and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  I'll make some fine 
adjustments to latch and hinge bolts early tomorrow morning (before it 
gets too hot) for perfect fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max for 
your help.


Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[Craig]

On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 12:28:39 -0400 "WILTON"  wrote:

> The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at
> 0800 and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.

Congratulations!


> BTW, If I had known about the little clips on the hinge arms and
> matching slots on the trunk lid to hold it in place for bolt
> installation, I probably would have tried the R & R by myself, but I
> wasn't sure enough that it would work that way.  I couldn't take a
> chance on the lid slipping and breaking rear window or damaging fender
> paint.

That was a wise choice.


Craig

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[MBZ] dirty oil

[clay monroe]

I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night and 
nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there should not 
be the diesel sooting up of oil.  

What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go ahead and 
toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil pressure at 
idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.


clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







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Re: [MBZ] Heat wave

[clay monroe]

Wow.  PNW surpassed its average precip number within the first 5 days of June.  
Been waterlogged and cold ever since october.  Might dry out in a few weeks 
when the sun finally comes out from behind clouds. 

I am thinking of putting paddle tires on Frosch

clay

On Jun 30, 2012, at 6:31 AM, Allan Streib wrote:

> Tim C  writes:
> 
>> 104 at lunch, 107 at 6, 94 after sunset.  Crazy humid, I was literally
>> dripping after being out for 20 minutes.  Now we have a strong wind
>> and thunderstorm, sounds like we're beachside and the waves are going.
> 
> The past few days here, we've been just topping 100 but unusually for
> Indiana the humidity has been low and winds have been moderate so though
> it's hot, it actually doesn't feel as bad as our normal
> 90-degree-90-percent-humidity summer weather.
> 
> The lack of any rain in June has been the bigger concern.  It's either
> tied for or is outright the driest June on record.  It's very dry here
> right now, many communities are canceling fireworks displays due to
> concern about fire.
> 
> Allan
> -- 
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

[WILTON]

At idle near nil?
Does it increase immediately with just a small bit of "throttle?"
Obstruction in pump pickup in oil pan?
Oil press on my 81 300D was suddenly at 0 at idle one day after a stop for 
lunch; increased nicely with a bit of "throttle," drop back to 0 at idle; 3 
bar at normal, etc., speed; I drove few blocks home, being sure to keep 
pressure up.  Stealer picked up car on roll-back; MB tech found pieces of 
vac pump in oil pump intake; he remembered that vac pump on this car had 
disintegrated several years before I got it from 90-year-old friend.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "clay monroe" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 1:26 PM
Subject: [MBZ] dirty oil


I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night 
and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there 
should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.


What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go 
ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil 
pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.



clay


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







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Re: [MBZ] Heat wave

[WILTON]

Very bearable 88 here right now; better than 100+ of last several days.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "clay monroe" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Heat wave


Wow.  PNW surpassed its average precip number within the first 5 days of 
June.  Been waterlogged and cold ever since october.  Might dry out in a 
few weeks when the sun finally comes out from behind clouds.


I am thinking of putting paddle tires on Frosch

clay

On Jun 30, 2012, at 6:31 AM, Allan Streib wrote:


Tim C  writes:


104 at lunch, 107 at 6, 94 after sunset.  Crazy humid, I was literally
dripping after being out for 20 minutes.  Now we have a strong wind
and thunderstorm, sounds like we're beachside and the waves are going.


The past few days here, we've been just topping 100 but unusually for
Indiana the humidity has been low and winds have been moderate so though
it's hot, it actually doesn't feel as bad as our normal
90-degree-90-percent-humidity summer weather.

The lack of any rain in June has been the bigger concern.  It's either
tied for or is outright the driest June on record.  It's very dry here
right now, many communities are canceling fireworks displays due to
concern about fire.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Pagoda (280SL) drain plugs?

[clay monroe]

get one of the cheap prestone flush kits and run standard water until you have 
no more gunk in the block.  Move the heater/defog valve thingy around to help 
flush the exchanger too.

Worked well on Gump.  Frosch was just removing the lower hoses and draining.  
Fill through the overflow tank and run the engine to circulate clean water.  
Will need to drain and burp a few times until it comes out with only water.

clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Jul 1, 2012, at 10:28 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

> I'm trying to drain the coolant in the engine block of my 71 280SL. I can't 
> find drain plugs. Does anyone know if they exist on this car? If not, what is 
> the preferred method of coolant drainage that would completely rid the car of 
> old coolant?
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Re: [MBZ] G-05

[clay monroe]

orielly online will order it to the store for pick up.  I got three gallons 
that way.  Took less than 8 hours


clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Jul 1, 2012, at 11:26 AM, Max Dillon wrote:

> Can be found at NAPA here in South Carolina.
> 
> Russ Williams  wrote:
> 
>> Around here NAPA carries it in the 50/50 formula. One Pep Boys (Yuck) 
>> has it.
>> None of the O'Reiley's carry it and wont order it. Car Quest will order
>> 
>> it for you.
>> 
>> Russ W.
>> '84 300D
>> '83 240D w/dead Manny Tranny
>> '03 Stratus
>> On 7/1/2012 12:36, Rick Hawkins Java wrote:
>>> i've always run the G05 and there's still a little in it
>>> 
>>> where can you get it locally now? i've always gotten it at pep boys
>> (i 
>>> hate that operation, but they always stocked it, but no more)
>>> 
>>> can autozone or some such order it in?
>>> 
>>> 
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD
> 
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Re: [MBZ] have 115 need trans

[clay monroe]

Ouch.  Flex disk and new trans shaft

On Jul 1, 2012, at 11:50 AM, drcscru...@aol.com wrote:

> 
> My step son has an old 1969 220d. It seems that he was jump starting the car 
> by rolling it down a hill to start.  Any way the part (don't know the terms) 
> that connects the trans to the driveshaft is stripped as well as the splines 
> that come out of the back of the transmission.  It seems to me that I will 
> need the part that connects to the driveshaft as well as the part extending 
> from the transmission repaired.  This may mean new trans?  Thanks for any 
> thoughts.
> Charles
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Mitch Haley 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Sent: Mon, Jun 11, 2012 8:43 pm
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] and the winner is...
> 
> 
> Dan Penoff wrote:
>> Well, there is another point of ignorance on my part that sabotaged that 
> purchase.
>> 
>> Too bad, as it was a beautiful car and had good records and ownership.
>> 
>> I think the AWD spooked a lot of potential buyers on it, since that's not 
> something you see a lot of down here.
> 
> If you're not a beachrunner, an AWD car comes in handy every five years, if 
> you're in the habit of driving every time the hurricanes hit.
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] G-05

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Never thought of that will see how much it is

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2012, at 1:48 PM, clay monroe  wrote:

> orielly online will order it to the store for pick up.  I got three gallons 
> that way.  Took less than 8 hours
> 
> 
> clay 
> 
> 
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 1, 2012, at 11:26 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
> 
>> Can be found at NAPA here in South Carolina.
>> 
>> Russ Williams  wrote:
>> 
>>> Around here NAPA carries it in the 50/50 formula. One Pep Boys (Yuck) 
>>> has it.
>>> None of the O'Reiley's carry it and wont order it. Car Quest will order
>>> 
>>> it for you.
>>> 
>>> Russ W.
>>> '84 300D
>>> '83 240D w/dead Manny Tranny
>>> '03 Stratus
>>> On 7/1/2012 12:36, Rick Hawkins Java wrote:
 i've always run the G05 and there's still a little in it
 
 where can you get it locally now? i've always gotten it at pep boys
>>> (i 
 hate that operation, but they always stocked it, but no more)
 
 can autozone or some such order it in?
 
 
>> -- 
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>> 
>> ___
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>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT: SSD drive recommendations

[clay monroe]

I have found ubuntu to be far and away the easiest to install on multiple 
strange hardware.  No idea why.  Win7 is garbage unless you have piles of oem 
cd with drivers.  Same with vista.Bound to be open source support for SSD.



clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Jul 1, 2012, at 12:49 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

> On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 12:21 PM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
>> Flash, IIRC, degrades to something like 1/10 of initial write speed,
>> or even worse, over the rated life span.
> 
> How do I determine the rated life span?
> 
> Dave Walton wrote:
>> If speed is paramount, buy a larger drive, format it to a lower capacity,
>> and run the manufacturer's utility to add the extra space into the wear
>> leveling cache. That will speed up writes.
> 
> Are these utilities something you run in Windows to set firmware
> parameters on the drive?
> 
> This machine will be running Linux exclusively, although I guess I
> could install Windows on it once if I have to and then wipe it off.
> 
> Googling "Linux SSD install" I see lots of information for how to
> tweak fstab, boot loader parameters, and other stuff to maximize SSD
> perfomance and longevity.  Also the laptop has 4 Gb of RAM, so I think
> I can get away without a swap partition.  Any other suggestions
> (besides that OCZ is a decent brand---thanks, Dave)?
> 
> Alex
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

[Fmiser]

> Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

> The method in the manual really works... when you remove the
> thermostat, you get lots of flow and lots of stuff clears up.

Just for reference, since there are a lot of OM616 and OM617
motors on the list, removing the thermostat is NOT a good plan.
I don't remember the M117 so it may be a "single throw" - but
the diesels are a "double throw" design.  That is, when the path
to the radiator opens, the bypass is closed.  Simply removing
the thermostat will leave both open and will NOT WORK
correctly.  For these, you must use a modified thermostat that
is jammed open.  I used a piece of brake line split and the
wrapped around the center shaft to hold it open.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

[clay monroe]

Near nil.  Hot idle.

Any throttle will change pressure up.  I was thinking of dropping the oil pan 
and cleaning it up at next oil change.  I did the last change by siphon and 
fill.

clay


On Jul 2, 2012, at 11:13 AM, WILTON wrote:

> At idle near nil?
> Does it increase immediately with just a small bit of "throttle?"
> Obstruction in pump pickup in oil pan?
> Oil press on my 81 300D was suddenly at 0 at idle one day after a stop for 
> lunch; increased nicely with a bit of "throttle," drop back to 0 at idle; 3 
> bar at normal, etc., speed; I drove few blocks home, being sure to keep 
> pressure up.  Stealer picked up car on roll-back; MB tech found pieces of vac 
> pump in oil pump intake; he remembered that vac pump on this car had 
> disintegrated several years before I got it from 90-year-old friend.
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - From: "clay monroe" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 1:26 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] dirty oil
> 
> 
>> I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night and 
>> nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there should 
>> not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
>> 
>> What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go ahead 
>> and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil 
>> pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.
>> 
>> 
>> clay
>> 
>> 
>> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
>> 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
>> 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
>> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT: SSD drive recommendations

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Jul 2, 2012 11:59 AM, "clay monroe"  wrote:
>
> Bound to be open source
> support for SSD.
>

After reading a lot of reviews on Newegg, I'm leaning towards shelling out
the extra $50 for Intel over OCZ, not only because it sounds like you get
what you pay for in reliability, but also because the Intel drives appear
to play nicer with Linux.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

[Jaime Kopchinski]

While its true that you should never run one of these engines without a
thermostat under normal use, its part of the standard procedure when
cleaning the cooling system for both early M116/M117 and OM617 engines.

See Job 20-015 of the OM617 manual for example:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/20-015.pdf

Job 20-015 from the M117 manual:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/Engine/107/M117_45/20-015.pdf

I have seen this special "open" thermostat mentioned in manuals also, but I
can't recall for which models... perhaps only newer cars?  It could be
necessary because sealing of the termostat house isn't possible without
something taking up the space in some engines?

Anyway, running without a thermostat for the purpose of flushing is
perfectly safe.  You'll be watching the temperature the whole time and
purging the system is air is very easy.

Jaime


On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 2:39 PM, Fmiser  wrote:

> > Jaime Kopchinski wrote:
>
> > The method in the manual really works... when you remove the
> > thermostat, you get lots of flow and lots of stuff clears up.
>
> Just for reference, since there are a lot of OM616 and OM617
> motors on the list, removing the thermostat is NOT a good plan.
> I don't remember the M117 so it may be a "single throw" - but
> the diesels are a "double throw" design.  That is, when the path
> to the radiator opens, the bypass is closed.  Simply removing
> the thermostat will leave both open and will NOT WORK
> correctly.  For these, you must use a modified thermostat that
> is jammed open.  I used a piece of brake line split and the
> wrapped around the center shaft to hold it open.
>
> --   Philip
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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[MBZ] Dimitri's 240 D on Ebay

[andrew strasfogel]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-240-Series-W123-1982-Mercedes-Benz-240D-Diesel-ASTRONOMICALLY-LOW-7-311-MILES-SINCE-/320931611752?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4ab903c468

Same color scheme, anyway.  I can't prove it's (not) his either way

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[MBZ] /8 114/115 seekers

[clay monroe]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3111938197.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/377428.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/3101907076.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/3097953586.html


none mine, no interest

will check out any you want







clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







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[MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

While R & R trunk lid this morning, we touched nothing but the 4 bolts (2 
ea. side) holding the hinge arms to the underside of lid - we merely removed 
bolts holding old one, lifted old one off, set "new" one in place and 
reinstalled the bolts.  Immediately, though, (and still) I noticed lotsa 
spring resistance when closing the lid, and when unlocking/unlatching it, if 
I don't hold it down/back, lid flies up with strong force bumping almost 
violently at top of swing.  I can hold it back, but SWMBO is in for a big 
surprise if I can't get the spring action dampened.  Before the R & R, the 
open/close action seemed to be in just the right balance - very easy opening 
and closing.
What could we have inadvertently changed.  'Don't think "new" lid weighs so 
much less than old one to make this difference.
'Haven't looked at springs, adjustment, etc., yet.  'Thought they were/are 
simple coils connected at each end.
When we removed old lid from hinge arms, did we unload springs in such a 
manner as to "reset" them to provide much more tension than before?


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "WILTON" 

To: "mercedes list" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:12 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid


The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at 0800 
and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  I'll make some fine 
adjustments to latch and hinge bolts early tomorrow morning (before it 
gets too hot) for perfect fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max for 
your help.


Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Maybe you replaces a steel lid with an aluminum one?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2012, at 4:05 PM, "WILTON"  wrote:

> While R & R trunk lid this morning, we touched nothing but the 4 bolts (2 ea. 
> side) holding the hinge arms to the underside of lid - we merely removed 
> bolts holding old one, lifted old one off, set "new" one in place and 
> reinstalled the bolts.  Immediately, though, (and still) I noticed lotsa 
> spring resistance when closing the lid, and when unlocking/unlatching it, if 
> I don't hold it down/back, lid flies up with strong force bumping almost 
> violently at top of swing.  I can hold it back, but SWMBO is in for a big 
> surprise if I can't get the spring action dampened.  Before the R & R, the 
> open/close action seemed to be in just the right balance - very easy opening 
> and closing.
> What could we have inadvertently changed.  'Don't think "new" lid weighs so 
> much less than old one to make this difference.
> 'Haven't looked at springs, adjustment, etc., yet.  'Thought they were/are 
> simple coils connected at each end.
> When we removed old lid from hinge arms, did we unload springs in such a 
> manner as to "reset" them to provide much more tension than before?
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - From: "WILTON" 
> To: "mercedes list" 
> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:12 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid
> 
> 
>> The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at 0800 
>> and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  I'll make some fine 
>> adjustments to latch and hinge bolts early tomorrow morning (before it gets 
>> too hot) for perfect fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max for your 
>> help.
>> 
>> Wilton
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

[Craig]

On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 15:42:01 -0400 Jaime Kopchinski 
wrote:

> While its true that you should never run one of these engines without a
> thermostat under normal use, its part of the standard procedure when
> cleaning the cooling system for both early M116/M117 and OM617 engines.
> 
> See Job 20-015 of the OM617 manual for example:
> http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/20-015.pdf

I looked up section 20.4-015 in my paper engine service manual, and, sure
enough, it says to just remove the thermostat. (The on-line PDF is a
later version, 20.8-015).


> I have seen this special "open" thermostat mentioned in manuals also,
> but I can't recall for which models... perhaps only newer cars?

I am sure I saw it in my paper manual for W123s, but 20-015 does say to
remove the thermostat. I looked briefly in the manual and did not see
anything about the forced-open thermostat. Hmmm


> It could be necessary because sealing of the termostat house isn't
> possible without something taking up the space in some engines?

They all work by having the disk on the end of the thermostat move and
block off the flow directly to the block, forcing it to the radiator.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT: SSD drive recommendations

[Allan Streib]

I have to say that Windows 7 has installed flawlessly whenever I've
tried it, which has only been a few times.  It's the dozens of
update/reboot cycles post-install that are the pain.

Ubuntu is a commercially-sponsored distribution has as a primary goal
the creation of an easy-to-use Linux desktop.  From what I've heard (I
don't use it, myself) they have mostly succeeded.  Some would say
they've gone too far.



clay monroe  writes:

> I have found ubuntu to be far and away the easiest to install on
> multiple strange hardware.  No idea why.  Win7 is garbage unless you
> have piles of oem cd with drivers.  Same with vista.  Bound to be open
> source support for SSD.

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

[OK Don]

Yes, the M117 is "double throw", just like the OM617, etc.

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 1:39 PM, Fmiser  wrote:

> > Jaime Kopchinski wrote:
>
> > The method in the manual really works... when you remove the
> > thermostat, you get lots of flow and lots of stuff clears up.
>
> Just for reference, since there are a lot of OM616 and OM617
> motors on the list, removing the thermostat is NOT a good plan.
> I don't remember the M117 so it may be a "single throw" - but
> the diesels are a "double throw" design.  That is, when the path
> to the radiator opens, the bypass is closed.  Simply removing
> the thermostat will leave both open and will NOT WORK
> correctly.  For these, you must use a modified thermostat that
> is jammed open.  I used a piece of brake line split and the
> wrapped around the center shaft to hold it open.
>
> --   Philip
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>



-- 
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2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[Dan Penoff]

It's not an aluminum trunk lid versus the old one being steel, is it?

I can't imagine anything else making a difference.

Dan

On Jul 2, 2012, at 5:05 PM, "WILTON"  wrote:

> While R & R trunk lid this morning, we touched nothing but the 4 bolts (2 ea. 
> side) holding the hinge arms to the underside of lid - we merely removed 
> bolts holding old one, lifted old one off, set "new" one in place and 
> reinstalled the bolts.  Immediately, though, (and still) I noticed lotsa 
> spring resistance when closing the lid, and when unlocking/unlatching it, if 
> I don't hold it down/back, lid flies up with strong force bumping almost 
> violently at top of swing.  I can hold it back, but SWMBO is in for a big 
> surprise if I can't get the spring action dampened.  Before the R & R, the 
> open/close action seemed to be in just the right balance - very easy opening 
> and closing.
> What could we have inadvertently changed.  'Don't think "new" lid weighs so 
> much less than old one to make this difference.
> 'Haven't looked at springs, adjustment, etc., yet.  'Thought they were/are 
> simple coils connected at each end.
> When we removed old lid from hinge arms, did we unload springs in such a 
> manner as to "reset" them to provide much more tension than before?
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - From: "WILTON" 
> To: "mercedes list" 
> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:12 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid
> 
> 
>> The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at 0800 
>> and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  I'll make some fine 
>> adjustments to latch and hinge bolts early tomorrow morning (before it gets 
>> too hot) for perfect fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max for your 
>> help.
>> 
>> Wilton
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 11 Months, 3000 pictures and a lot of coffee

[OK Don]

Cool! I think he spent more time taking photos than working on the engine!
It's an older 3 main bearing BMC in a Triumph Spitfire.

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 9:46 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=daVDrGsaDME
>
>
>
>
> -- next part --
> __**_
> Daveslist mailing list
> davesl...@okiebenz.com
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/daveslist_**okiebenz.com
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>



-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

That's what I'm thinking.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid



Maybe you replaces a steel lid with an aluminum one?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2012, at 4:05 PM, "WILTON"  wrote:

While R & R trunk lid this morning, we touched nothing but the 4 bolts (2 
ea. side) holding the hinge arms to the underside of lid - we merely 
removed bolts holding old one, lifted old one off, set "new" one in place 
and reinstalled the bolts.  Immediately, though, (and still) I noticed 
lotsa spring resistance when closing the lid, and when 
unlocking/unlatching it, if I don't hold it down/back, lid flies up with 
strong force bumping almost violently at top of swing.  I can hold it 
back, but SWMBO is in for a big surprise if I can't get the spring action 
dampened.  Before the R & R, the open/close action seemed to be in just 
the right balance - very easy opening and closing.
What could we have inadvertently changed.  'Don't think "new" lid weighs 
so much less than old one to make this difference.
'Haven't looked at springs, adjustment, etc., yet.  'Thought they 
were/are simple coils connected at each end.
When we removed old lid from hinge arms, did we unload springs in such a 
manner as to "reset" them to provide much more tension than before?


Wilton

- Original Message - From: "WILTON" 
To: "mercedes list" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:12 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid


The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at 
0800 and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  I'll make some fine 
adjustments to latch and hinge bolts early tomorrow morning (before it 
gets too hot) for perfect fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max 
for your help.


Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

Me, either; going out right now to check with magnet.  'Pretty sure "new" 
one is AL; 'suspect old one is steel.

'Just glanced at springs - coil on each side in compression.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Penoff" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid



It's not an aluminum trunk lid versus the old one being steel, is it?

I can't imagine anything else making a difference.

Dan

On Jul 2, 2012, at 5:05 PM, "WILTON"  wrote:

While R & R trunk lid this morning, we touched nothing but the 4 bolts (2 
ea. side) holding the hinge arms to the underside of lid - we merely 
removed bolts holding old one, lifted old one off, set "new" one in place 
and reinstalled the bolts.  Immediately, though, (and still) I noticed 
lotsa spring resistance when closing the lid, and when 
unlocking/unlatching it, if I don't hold it down/back, lid flies up with 
strong force bumping almost violently at top of swing.  I can hold it 
back, but SWMBO is in for a big surprise if I can't get the spring action 
dampened.  Before the R & R, the open/close action seemed to be in just 
the right balance - very easy opening and closing.
What could we have inadvertently changed.  'Don't think "new" lid weighs 
so much less than old one to make this difference.
'Haven't looked at springs, adjustment, etc., yet.  'Thought they 
were/are simple coils connected at each end.
When we removed old lid from hinge arms, did we unload springs in such a 
manner as to "reset" them to provide much more tension than before?


Wilton

- Original Message - From: "WILTON" 
To: "mercedes list" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:12 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid


The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at 
0800 and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  I'll make some fine 
adjustments to latch and hinge bolts early tomorrow morning (before it 
gets too hot) for perfect fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max 
for your help.


Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] lifetime trans juice

[RELNGSON]

..Not if they have a drain plug, which most of the older ones do.  Not sure 
when this stopped being the norm, I'd guess when they developed "lifetime" 
sealed transmissions...

The "lifetime" fluid idea went away about 2005 after trans warranty claims 
escalated. My '01 C320's 5-speed had no TC drain plug but my C300's 7-speed 
(7G-tronic) does have one. The dealers are getting quite a bit of money to 
replace the fluid at about 38.5K miles since it's not just a simple drain and 
refill.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

Yep; old one is steel; "new" one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to 
underside of "new" one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't have 
it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.
I think I have some strips of steel plate around here somewhere; maybe I can 
secure appropriate weight as necessary.
BTW, I had lifted/handled "new" lid many times, but friend handled old (and 
new) one this morning, so I didn't get to feel any comparison.  Friend 
didn't mention any noticeable difference.  I only know that "new" one is 
surprisingly light.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "WILTON" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid


Me, either; going out right now to check with magnet.  'Pretty sure "new" 
one is AL; 'suspect old one is steel.

'Just glanced at springs - coil on each side in compression.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Penoff" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid



It's not an aluminum trunk lid versus the old one being steel, is it?

I can't imagine anything else making a difference.

Dan

On Jul 2, 2012, at 5:05 PM, "WILTON"  wrote:

While R & R trunk lid this morning, we touched nothing but the 4 bolts 
(2 ea. side) holding the hinge arms to the underside of lid - we merely 
removed bolts holding old one, lifted old one off, set "new" one in 
place and reinstalled the bolts.  Immediately, though, (and still) I 
noticed lotsa spring resistance when closing the lid, and when 
unlocking/unlatching it, if I don't hold it down/back, lid flies up with 
strong force bumping almost violently at top of swing.  I can hold it 
back, but SWMBO is in for a big surprise if I can't get the spring 
action dampened.  Before the R & R, the open/close action seemed to be 
in just the right balance - very easy opening and closing.
What could we have inadvertently changed.  'Don't think "new" lid weighs 
so much less than old one to make this difference.
'Haven't looked at springs, adjustment, etc., yet.  'Thought they 
were/are simple coils connected at each end.
When we removed old lid from hinge arms, did we unload springs in such a 
manner as to "reset" them to provide much more tension than before?


Wilton

- Original Message - From: "WILTON" 
To: "mercedes list" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:12 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid


The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this morning at 
0800 and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  I'll make some fine 
adjustments to latch and hinge bolts early tomorrow morning (before it 
gets too hot) for perfect fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max 
for your help.


Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT: SSD drive recommendations

[clay monroe]

almost too far.  

If I am not able to get winblows to install, I have no issue with ubuntu on 
that machine.  These are failed hackintosh boxes from white box systems or 
corporate toss away.  AMD or intel, ubuntu does not care what the audio or 
video card is, what sort of usb or firewire, wifi or blue tooth.   Only thing 
linux does not support is netflix.  bluray or hdmi




On Jul 2, 2012, at 2:23 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

> I have to say that Windows 7 has installed flawlessly whenever I've
> tried it, which has only been a few times.  It's the dozens of
> update/reboot cycles post-install that are the pain.
> 
> Ubuntu is a commercially-sponsored distribution has as a primary goal
> the creation of an easy-to-use Linux desktop.  From what I've heard (I
> don't use it, myself) they have mostly succeeded.  Some would say
> they've gone too far.
> 
> 
> 
> clay monroe  writes:
> 
>> I have found ubuntu to be far and away the easiest to install on
>> multiple strange hardware.  No idea why.  Win7 is garbage unless you
>> have piles of oem cd with drivers.  Same with vista.  Bound to be open
>> source support for SSD.
> 
> -- 
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[Craig]

On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 18:31:51 -0400 "WILTON"  wrote:

> Yep; old one is steel; "new" one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to 
> underside of "new" one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't
> have it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.

It would be a shame to have to add ballast to it.

Are the springs not adjustable?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[David Bruckmann]

I take it the springs can't just be moved to a different position on the arms 
to change the tension (like the hood springs on 115/123?)

Wilton wrote:
>
>Yep; old one is steel; "new" one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to 
>underside of "new" one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't have 
>it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[OK Don]

One of the trunk lid springs on the 450SLC was not working (one end was not
in it's slot), and it would almost, but not quite, hold the lid open.
Perhaps you coud disconnect one side, and see what happens?

The ither option is to find springs from the same type car that the
aluminum lid came from and replace yours.

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 5:42 PM, David Bruckmann <
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca> wrote:

> I take it the springs can't just be moved to a different position on the
> arms to change the tension (like the hood springs on 115/123?)
>
> Wilton wrote:
> >
> >Yep; old one is steel; "new" one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to
> >underside of "new" one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't have
> >it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.
>
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[Dan Penoff]

I believe the springs are different. Might want to check with the Q to see how 
cheap they are.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 2, 2012, at 6:39 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 18:31:51 -0400 "WILTON"  wrote:
> 
>> Yep; old one is steel; "new" one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to 
>> underside of "new" one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't
>> have it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.
> 
> It would be a shame to have to add ballast to it.
> 
> Are the springs not adjustable?
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[Jaime Kopchinski]

You guys are on the right track... its been a while since I've looked at a
W126 trunk lid in detail, but on W123s and other cars the springs had a few
postions they could be placed.  Euro cars with the heavy warning triangle
had their springs in a different position than US cars, for example.  Take
a close look.

Jaime


On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 6:39 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 18:31:51 -0400 "WILTON"  wrote:
>
> > Yep; old one is steel; "new" one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to
> > underside of "new" one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't
> > have it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.
>
> It would be a shame to have to add ballast to it.
>
> Are the springs not adjustable?
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] The Time Has Come to Buy a Car

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

they are on the way to you.
On 7/1/2012 6:01 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote:

10-4
On Jul 1, 2012 3:58 PM, "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:


I don't have any but I will try to take some tonight, keeping in mind I
have not cleaned it up yet

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2012, at 5:23 PM, Bob Rentfro  wrote:


Sounds very attractive. Sounds like something i could drive back and

forth

to the old nuke plant. $1200 plus a ticket to Tulsa.hm...send me
the pics you undoubtedly have of it.

Bob R
On Jul 1, 2012 3:13 PM, "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:


I have not thought of a price but probably in the 1200 to 1500 range.

Yes

it's auto. This was the car I gave to the oldest kid, he was not
responsible and kept tearing it up, so now I am selling it. I got to

clean

it up first but mechanically it's in good shape. Cosmetically has some
normal dents and dings. Had brand new bumper covers on it when I bought

it

but the front bumper is cracked up on the bottom like they all are now.

I

got books and records going back to about 93, even have the window

sticker

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2012, at 4:32 PM, Bob Rentfro  wrote:


Auto? How much? I think you sent me pictures of this a couple of years

ago.

Bob R
On Jul 1, 2012 2:11 PM, "Kaleb C. Striplin" 

wrote:

Well I got a 84 190d I am getting ready to sell. Brand new tires,

front

end rebuilt, just installed a mb factory rebuilt tranny with very few

miles

that shifts great, ac works, cruise works sunroof works, all the

windows

work, it's blue with blue.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Bob Rentfro  wrote:


Talk to me.give me a rundown of what you'd be willing to part

with.

Alex's sounds interesting as well...

BobR
On Jul 1, 2012 1:34 PM, "Kaleb C. Striplin" 

wrote:

I have 8 124 diesels, I probably do not need 8

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2012, at 12:01 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>

wrote:

There is a nice 2.5 300D on fleabay right now in phoenix.  91 I

think.

There are some nice 300D 123s on fleabay right now too.



Soanyone have a diesel they need to part ways with? I have

lost

control

of my TDI (youngest girl child home from school and working) and

the

E320,

once languishing in the garage, is now going to driven into

downtown

Phoenix daily by SWMBO. Consequently,  dad is left carless.
In my dreamworld I'd like a W115, 4 speed and AC (told you it ws

my

dream

world). Realistically,  I'm wanting a 4speed 240D with the good

HVAC.

Anyone know of such things that aren't several thousands of miles

away?

Bob R.

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To Unsu

Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

That has got to be what it is, and it can make quite a difference
On 7/2/2012 5:10 PM, WILTON wrote:

That's what I'm thinking.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid



Maybe you replaces a steel lid with an aluminum one?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2012, at 4:05 PM, "WILTON"  wrote:

While R & R trunk lid this morning, we touched nothing but the 
4 bolts (2 ea. side) holding the hinge arms to the underside 
of lid - we merely removed bolts holding old one, lifted old 
one off, set "new" one in place and reinstalled the bolts.  
Immediately, though, (and still) I noticed lotsa spring 
resistance when closing the lid, and when unlocking/unlatching 
it, if I don't hold it down/back, lid flies up with strong 
force bumping almost violently at top of swing.  I can hold it 
back, but SWMBO is in for a big surprise if I can't get the 
spring action dampened.  Before the R & R, the open/close 
action seemed to be in just the right balance - very easy 
opening and closing.
What could we have inadvertently changed.  'Don't think "new" 
lid weighs so much less than old one to make this difference.
'Haven't looked at springs, adjustment, etc., yet.  'Thought 
they were/are simple coils connected at each end.
When we removed old lid from hinge arms, did we unload springs 
in such a manner as to "reset" them to provide much more 
tension than before?


Wilton

- Original Message - From: "WILTON" 
To: "mercedes list" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:12 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid


The "new" trunk lid is finally in place.  Friend came this 
morning at 0800 and helped me R & R; very easy < 10 min job.  
I'll make some fine adjustments to latch and hinge bolts 
early tomorrow morning (before it gets too hot) for perfect 
fit/alignment.  Thanks, again, Rich and Max for your help.


Wilton
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2193 / Virus Database: 2437/5106 - Release Date: 
07/02/12







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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

Not sure, yet, if they're adjustable or not.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Craig" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid



On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 18:31:51 -0400 "WILTON"  wrote:

Yep; old one is steel; "new" one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to 
underside of "new" one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't

have it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.


It would be a shame to have to add ballast to it.

Are the springs not adjustable?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

The rear ends of the springs appear to be "butted up" against forward ends 
of lid lever arms.  Gonna try to find some lit. on 'em.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "David Bruckmann" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid


I take it the springs can't just be moved to a different position on the 
arms to change the tension (like the hood springs on 115/123?)


Wilton wrote:


Yep; old one is steel; "new" one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to
underside of "new" one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't have
it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.


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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[Rick Knoble]

Or go bad to the yard and get the correct hinges and springs. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2012, at 6:28 PM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:

> I believe the springs are different. Might want to check with the Q to see 
> how cheap they are.

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Re: [MBZ] Dimitri's 240 D on Ebay

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Ha. Not mine but wish it was! When I need to sell a car I'll keep you in mind!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2012, at 4:10 PM, andrew strasfogel  wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-240-Series-W123-1982-Mercedes-Benz-240D-Diesel-ASTRONOMICALLY-LOW-7-311-MILES-SINCE-/320931611752?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4ab903c468

Same color scheme, anyway.  I can't prove it's (not) his either way

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Re: [MBZ] Pagoda (280SL) drain plugs?

[Dimitri Seretakis]

I found the block drain plug. It came out easy enough so no need for the 
prestone thingy for now.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2012, at 2:46 PM, clay monroe  wrote:

get one of the cheap prestone flush kits and run standard water until you have 
no more gunk in the block.  Move the heater/defog valve thingy around to help 
flush the exchanger too.

Worked well on Gump.  Frosch was just removing the lower hoses and draining.  
Fill through the overflow tank and run the engine to circulate clean water.  
Will need to drain and burp a few times until it comes out with only water.

clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Jul 1, 2012, at 10:28 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

I'm trying to drain the coolant in the engine block of my 71 280SL. I can't 
find drain plugs. Does anyone know if they exist on this car? If not, what is 
the preferred method of coolant drainage that would completely rid the car of 
old coolant?
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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

[Jim Cathey]

I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as 
night and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a 
vergasser, there should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.


May just be sludge coming out into solution.  I'd probably suck
out hot oil and refill, leave filter alone.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

'Not that simple.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rick Knoble" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid



Or go bad to the yard and get the correct hinges and springs.

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2012, at 6:28 PM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:

I believe the springs are different. Might want to check with the Q to 
see how cheap they are.


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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

[Fmiser]

> > > Jaime Kopchinski wrote:
> > >
> > > The method in the manual really works... when you remove
> > > the thermostat, you get lots of flow and lots of stuff
> > > clears up.

> > Philip wrote:
> >
> > Just for reference, since there are a lot of OM616 and OM617
> > motors on the list, removing the thermostat is NOT a good
> > plan. I don't remember the M117 so it may be a "single
> > throw" - but the diesels are a "double throw" design.  That
> > is, when the path to the radiator opens, the bypass is
> > closed.  Simply removing the thermostat will leave both open
> > and will NOT WORK correctly.  For these, you must use a
> > modified thermostat that is jammed open.  I used a piece of
> > brake line split and the wrapped around the center shaft to
> > hold it open.

> Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

> Anyway, running without a thermostat for the purpose of
> flushing is perfectly safe.  You'll be watching the
> temperature the whole time and purging the system is air is
> very easy.

I don't argue that it's safe.  But it also isn't going to do a
thorough job flushing.  The laws of hydrodynamics indicate that
the path of least resistance will get the most flow.  And the
path through the engine is going to have a higher resistance
than the 6 inch bypass pipe.  Therefore most of the water will
not go through the engine if the bypass isn't closed.

Do whatever you want - but when I do a cooling system flush, I
want it all cleaned out.  So I use a forced-open thermostat.

-- Philip



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Re: [MBZ] The '95 E320 is back on the road

[Hendrik & Fay]

You can easily make one out of heavy duty wire, a vice and hammer.
Makes life easier if it is longer.

Hendrik
who has made that special tool

On 02/07/12 08:21, Craig wrote:


You're welcome. I figured the picture of how the fan pulley is locked
would be of help to someone. A 5 mm Allen wrench with the short leg cut
shorter works OK, but the 90 degree angle should be more like 110 - 120
degrees.


Craig





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