Re: [MBZ] Deperately need HELP-Woodward/Fargo, OK
No problem, Kaleb-just checking if it is CLOSe and not too inconvenient for anyone! Thanks! Michael From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Deperately need HELP-Woodward/Fargo, OK Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:53:46 -0600 I would do it, but thats several hours west of me. Joseph Shaw wrote: This is a bit off topic, and I have not posted anything on here for some time, but I have run into a jam in West OK-purchased an old truck on ebay, and am having a LOT of trouble getting things straight with the seller. If there is ANYONE close enough to this area to run an errand for me, get some info for me, recommend a towing service, storage place and tire shop, etc, I would greatly appreciate it, and possibly compenatse someone if it was out of their way and very inconvenient! Thanks! If anyone could do this, please let me know ASAP-my trip to a family wedding pretty much depends on it at this point! Thanks! Michael _ View Athletes Collections with Live Search http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06FORM=MGAC01 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _ Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and business Web site from Microsoft Office Live http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
Re: [MBZ] Deperately need HELP-Woodward/Fargo, OK
No problem- Thanks for thinking of it though! Michael From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Deperately need HELP-Woodward/Fargo, OK Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 21:08:27 -0600 Sorry - though it's not close to Norman, I'm also headed the opposite direction for the next three weekends -- bad timing. On 11/16/06, Joseph Shaw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No problem, Kaleb-just checking if it is CLOSe and not too inconvenient for anyone! Thanks! Michael -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _ Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger. http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme002001msn/direct/01/?href=http://get.live.com/messenger/overview
[MBZ] Deperately need HELP-Woodward/Fargo, OK
This is a bit off topic, and I have not posted anything on here for some time, but I have run into a jam in West OK-purchased an old truck on ebay, and am having a LOT of trouble getting things straight with the seller. If there is ANYONE close enough to this area to run an errand for me, get some info for me, recommend a towing service, storage place and tire shop, etc, I would greatly appreciate it, and possibly compenatse someone if it was out of their way and very inconvenient! Thanks! If anyone could do this, please let me know ASAP-my trip to a family wedding pretty much depends on it at this point! Thanks! Michael _ View Athletes Collections with Live Search http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06FORM=MGAC01
Re: [MBZ] International Scout w/ factory Nissan diesel on Ebay
The Nissan diesel was available for many years. Diesel Scouts are getting rare because of the high repair costs, combined with diesel ignorance. Most of the remaining Diesels have been converted to gas 345 v-8. One of the nice things about IH Scouts and pickups is that any drivetrain option can be converted to any other drivetrain option with factory parts. A 2wd 304 auto pickup can be converted to a 392 4barrel, 4 speed 4wd but unbolting and bolting on the new parts. For more information, the ultimate source is www.scoutconnection.com Actually, though this is true for most cases, some WERE a bit more difficult than others. All of the straight axle IH's are a pretty easy conversion to any other straight axle, and any 2WD can be bolted out to a 4WD quite easily, relatively speaking. However, IH had some IFS trucks as well, and these, though the engine and tranny can get in there quite easily, converting the front end is tougher. There are some variations in the frame, as well as some differing locayions of mount bolting holes, etc. Also, the outsider engines can be a bit trickier to work back and forth with-namely the fore-mentioned nissan diesels and the AMC engines (232, 258, 401) that were used in some models. Also, the IH slant 4 which was, almost literally, one of their V8's chopped in half, and thus, had similar mounts and components, did have a different mounting angle-special intake manifold and bell housing unit required to swap one of these for a V8 in either direction. Even better for TONS of info on these is Binderbulletin.org-pretty much the definitive IH web page-will have links to others, but this seems to be the grandaddy. Michael
Re: [MBZ] 80 240D For Sale Cheap
I missed the original post, but am interested-could someone forward the link
to me or the original post.
And it could be as simple as valves out of adjustment as well. My first
Benz was a '75 300D, which I got for $200 because of no start status. I
tinkered here and there, and then ended up trying a bit of starting fluid,
which fired it right up. I adjusted the valves and she ran great for about
eight months until I lost a tranny.
Just a thought!
Michael
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 80 240D For Sale Cheap
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 15:40:05 -0400
You wrote:Not to be a pessimist, but idf all it needed was a new battery
they would
have bought one for $50 at Advance Auto. The cynic in me says no start =
low
compreession = tired engine.
You may be right, but the story I was told was the owner was leaving for
Germany post haste didn't/couldn't take the time to get a battery
install it or have the car taken somwhere fixed. Also, at $500, the
parts
would be worth more than that - although the trouble to sell stuff may not
make it worthwhile. But that's my laziness speaking ;-)
But I've had a couple of people express interest - maybe we'll find out --
Actually I would have bought it myself but I hardly drive my 78 240D enough
to justify keeping it...
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 80 240D For Sale Cheap
I missed the original post, but am interested-could someone forward the link
to me or the original post.
And it could be as simple as valves out of adjustment as well. My first
Benz was a '75 300D, which I got for $200 because of no start status. I
tinkered here and there, and then ended up trying a bit of starting fluid,
which fired it right up. I adjusted the valves and she ran great for about
eight months until I lost a tranny.
Just a thought!
Michael
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 80 240D For Sale Cheap
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 15:40:05 -0400
You wrote:Not to be a pessimist, but idf all it needed was a new battery
they would
have bought one for $50 at Advance Auto. The cynic in me says no start =
low
compreession = tired engine.
You may be right, but the story I was told was the owner was leaving for
Germany post haste didn't/couldn't take the time to get a battery
install it or have the car taken somwhere fixed. Also, at $500, the
parts
would be worth more than that - although the trouble to sell stuff may not
make it worthwhile. But that's my laziness speaking ;-)
But I've had a couple of people express interest - maybe we'll find out --
Actually I would have bought it myself but I hardly drive my 78 240D enough
to justify keeping it...
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Mercedes 200 series Haynes Manual for sale
I bought a 200 series manual to try to iron out my 250C problems, but sicne I am moving have sold the car and now would like to get rid of the manual. It is almost in new condition, and I tried it on ebay for $10.00, plus $4.95 to pack it well, but if someone on here wants it, how about $10.00 and you pay shipping. I think it covers all the gas 200 series from '68-'72 or something like that. Thanks! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Vehicle Shipping [was: Re: For some reason, I really like this car]
On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 11:46:20 -0400 Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am currently dealing with these guys, to move my 240d from Texas to Canada. So far they have been very good overall. The final verdict will be in when the car arrives (approx. 10 days). http://www.aa-auto.com/ So, how much does it cost to ship a vehicle? Depends on where to where, and time of year, not just mileage between the points. Some states (LA, for example) are sort of, forget it. Dunno why exactly. FLA, most of CA, OK and TX are easy, I know that much. If your start or end point is near one of the major regional dealer auctions, it will be easier/cheaper. For example, a reputable company will probably charge in the $800 region, retail, for taking a car from Texas or California to New England. Like everything else, if you know someone in the car biz, dealers get it for less. (And before someone chimes in with I had mine sent a few years back for $400, ask yourself how much diesel cost back then too.) Caveat emptor. Shop for reputation and price, not just price. All these guys are just brokers, they either sub to owner/ops or to smaller regional companies (not unlike how the furniture moving business really works). I imagine my car will see two or three different trucks at least, on its way up here. (Which is why non-running cars cost a fortune to ship.) Some companies will tell you they'll do it for much less, and from the horror stories I've heard and read, at best you'll probably see the car in about triple the time frame you expected, at worst it will turn up that much later but not even where it was supposed to land. However, always expect it to take longer than they tell you. Mac Aylmer, Quebec '60 Mercedes 220s / '82 240d '75 Volvo 164e / '88 Volvo 245 Also, of course, depends on the vehicle, but from my experience, your estimates are low. I would start off getting an estimate from DAS, who is kind of the industry standard right now due to theri partnership with ebay. They are very reputable, and on the slightly higher than normal side, but have ALL the options you want-bonded and licensed and insured, etc. From my experience of shipping about seven to ten vehicles for people over the past six or seven years, I would say a good cross-country price is abotu $1200 right now. Pick up truck will be a bit more, Karmann Ghia will be a bit less. I shipped a Ghia from San Fran to KY about five years ago, and it was $875 then-gas and diesel were MUCH cheaper!!! I also found an independent guy to grab a BIG crewcab 4X4 for me and bring it from So Cal to GA for me for about $900, but he was none of the above-not bonded or insured, just a guy taking a load one way that wanted to help pay for the gas home. All of the companies I spoke with were over $1400 for that one, I think, and that was last fall before the prices bumped up again. Anyway, as I said, from MY experience, DAS is slightly high, but not a LOT higher than the average will be. There are still others that are MUCH mroe than them, as well as many that will be a little less than them. I think it is kind of like local gas prices-they are all pretty close. If one guy is willing to do it for $1000, another guy may go down to $925 to get the business, but no one will go back below that. Same the other way. If one company is going to charge $1000, no one wants to go TOO much under that because they want to make some money too!!! There is an internet list of old tractor enthusiasts that often make soem offers to do some shipping just a little bit cheaper. I cannot recall the web site, but have found individuals going somewher eto deliver or pick something up once in a while and they will sometimes do a cheap return run, or since their equip is so big, they sometimes have a WHOLE flatbed semi to handle their tractor, but have room for a car on back. Do an internet search and see if you can track this down. Also, look on craigs list and ebay-sometimes some individual is doing the same thing. Again, often these are not companies, but just good old boys, but I have had god luck going this route. Car enthusiasts tend to take care of cars! Good luck! Michael
RE: [MBZ] New member old problems :)
Hi all, Just found this list. looks like it's a vey active community. Other forums I have visited are quite slow. I have a 72 250 Chassis W114 M130 engine. I am trying to get road worthy again. I have put on a rebuilt head and rebuilt the carburators. I have questions all over the place so bear with me. First off, has anybody attempted to set their timing with the enginve vacuum? Does the advance need to be connected? Do you need to keep the idle at 800 for a reading? Has anybody tried to balance their caburators with a manometer such as this one? http://www.airheads.org/old/index.php?Technical%20Tips+%244%20Carburetor%20Synchronizer or similar? If not how do you sync your carbs? I still have the dreded Zenith INAT 35/40's Does anybody know how to set the carburators idle stop screw back to a factory setting? Also some genius remved the fast idle screw. Does anybody know the size of the screw that is usualy in there? is it something I can get at home depot? Thanks George I have one of these up on ebay right now-you could buy it and then have PLENTY of parts for yours-or use yours for plenty of parts for mine, or something! Oh, but BTW, mine is not running either!!! Moving soon so had to sell it! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-250C-1972-Mercedes-Benz-250C-250-C-Sunroof-46K-miles_W0QQitemZ4561978696QQcategoryZ6329QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Michael
[MBZ] $100 '78 300D parts car - York PA
How many miles are on it? Motor and tranny seem pretty functional? Oddly enough, I was looking at an old Semi in York, to use as a tow rig for buying old cars, which I do frequently, and was thinking, But it will cost so much to drive it home!!! (I live in GA). But if I can find two things up there I want, it is only HALF as expensive per vehicle!!! Let me know if you know the miles. I am interested in trying to make a diesel out of my 250C. Thanks! Michael From: Rob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] $100 '78 300D parts car - York PA Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 12:06:02 -0400 rusty, partially stripped.great motor (nonturbo) and auto tranny. hood and trunklid and maybe a couple of the doors are the only non-rusty sheet metal on it. fenders could be salvageable. trim, lights, vacuum components, dash, some glass, hubcaps all removed.basically all that's left that anyone would want is the drivetrain and suspension. I've been throwing all my scrap metal in it, planning on taking it to the crusher. If someone wants it for a higher purpose I'd rather see it go to someone who needs parts. I'm asking about what I'd get for it at the crusher. it's in Red Lion, York County, Pennsylvania. 10 minutes from I-83 and US-30. all 4 tires will hold air long enough to load it onto a trailer. at least 2 tires will hold air long enough to dolly it home. I have air tools and will gladly assist with loading the car onto a trailer/dolly. I have the title, but it's not in my name. we can do a bill of sale though. if you reply off-list, please remove [MBZ] from the subject line so it doesn't get filtered out of my regular mail and I see it sooner. Thanks -Rob ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
RE: [MBZ] Zenith carburators help
Roberto- Sounds very similar to my problems, only not as severe. I say start to look to the ignition system as well! Good luck! Let me know what you find out! Michael Hello guys Today's question it is about the Zenith Carburators on a 280 S M130 engine, I have experience some problems in the high end, I mean trying to reach high speeds or on load situaction (uphill), the cars performs very well in idle and in the low range but when I push the gas pedal just after the exaust sounds loud (and good, over 2800 rpm) the car start to fail with some kind of stall and can not reach a higher speed. The facts are : engine rebuild 200 miles ago, compresion all around 170 psi, iddle speed 850 rpm, dwell 39°, timing 9° BTDC, temperature a little bit over 175 °F riding and can reach 215 °F on traffic with out auxiliary fan (with the fan on the temp back to 175 °F). I clean the carburators (dissasemble and spray with carbs cleaner then blowthem with compressed air), after that I follow the MB mantinance book instructions to tuning them up, since I don not have a CO2 analizer or air synchonaizer ( I know this is not the rigth way but ...) but with some experience in less complicated carbs I adjusted the mix screws by hear and the iddle with a tach. The car star at the first try, iddle very good, trnasition well too, perhaps the only noticeable problem is the stall in the high end. I know is a long shot but any sugestion will be appreciate. Thanks in advance one more time Roberto ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Zenith carburators help
I think that's the diagnosis for black smoke-too rich. But someone more knowledgeable will speak up and confirm. Sounds like you are making much better progress than I!!! Good luck-keep at it! Michael Hi guys Before anything else I would like to thanks for your responses to my help call. I have been taking this whole thing with an easy pace, so today there is no work on the carbs and beside I have a huge hangover from yesterday excess. I found a leak diaphragm in the rear carb I replaced it and did the mix screw thing againg to lean it a little bit (turning in, Am I rigth?) tooke the car for a long ride, I felt it more powerfull and responsive but still have some problems in the high end. I will verify the linkage adjusment, kick down switch and the ignition to see if there is something to coment. Finally when I start the car this morning it left a big spot of black dust from the exaust in the garage wall, any clue? maybe too rich? Thanks Roberto ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Cost of Dist Condensor
IIRC, the condensor is to keep the points from arcing-burning. You should be able to run it a little while without one to see if that's the problem. A condensor that's going bad will either cause the points to burn (what I remember happening in my old cars), or short out, causing no fire to the plugs. All this reminds me why I love diesels! Which answers the question someone asked about What was wrong with the original engine? when I was discussing replacing with a diesel!!! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
IIRC, You said you rebuilt the carbs, then tried running the car on old fuel (read varnish). You might want to recheck the carbs for contamination Just my 2¢ Rick Knoble 1985 300 CD Yes, I DID try to run it on the tank, but only for a very short time, and very shortly thereafter, went back to the new gas. I know that this is a possibility, but, again, from much experience, and from the fact that it acts EXACTLY as it did before the carb rebuild, on good and old gas, I don't think this is the problem! But, thanks, I will keep it in mind! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Joseph Shaw wrote: So I am back to thinking that there has to be a flooding issue. Until this episode, I was thinking non-delivery. (especially since you can usually get a brief run from fueling with starting fluid) And now your thinking is??? I will say that, yes, like everyone else, I don't prefer the starting fluid usage, but at time it lets you know if fuel delivery vs. spark is the problem. I also will say that, with the VERY light amounts I am spraying in there, I really don't think it is enough to run the engine for as long as it is running-just enough to get the first solid turn basically! So, again, are you agreeing that it sounds like flooding now? And, again, it is going through TONS of gas, so it is delivering, that's for sure! Unless it is ALL going back through the overflow hose! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Cost of Dist Condensor
On Thu, Jul 07, 2005 at 04:30:56PM -0500, Potter, Tom E wrote: I'm not an electrical expert, but I agree. As long as the capacitance is within the same specifications, any condenser should work. The problem is in determining the capacitance specifications. Better yet, throw the points and condenser away and get an electronic trigger (Compufire, Petronix, et. al.). This is the best solution, IMNQSHO. Perhaps it would be, but then, what if that is NOT the problem??? I am by no means homeless, but also am by no means RICH! I cannot afford hundreds of dollars to buy a new electronic system JUST to see if MAYBE that is the problem. I only buy cars when I can get them VERY cheap because they are not working right. 90% of the time, I can get them going. Either way, I cannot afford to fix things before they are known problems-unless it is something inexpensive like a condensor. It is better for me to sell it off as a parts car than to spend much more money for it. Thanks, though-appreciate your opinion! Michael
RE: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
If it does not fire the starting fluid, you have an ignition problem. Okay-then why did it fire the starting fluid the first time? And why does it often fire the starting fluid several times before it behaves this way? Thanks! Michael
RE: [MBZ] Zenith carburator second stage diaphragm
Roberto- I did get this question from you, and have not been ignoring it, but have not gotten my diagram out to see which diaphragm we are talking about so that I can tell you how I got it off!!! I will try to let you know what I did ASAP! Michael From: Roberto [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Lista Mercedes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Zenith carburator second stage diaphragm Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 09:15:43 -0400 Hello guys I was trying to removed a second stage diaphragm on one my Zenith carburators but I could not. I used a screwdriver to pryed off but nothing, any clue? Thanks in advance Roberto ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Zenith carburator second stage diaphragm
Hello guys I was looking for a response and I finally did, the way to took out the second stage diaphragm, is easy, you have to pull the shaft untill the middle were are a small aperture, at this point you can separate the shaft from the ball joint in the actuating lever. I hope this help somebody as well the info I have had from the list. Roberto Roberto- NOW I know which one you are talking about! Yes, that is how you do it-though I must admit, I was lucky to find it-no instructions anywhere mention that system!!! Sorry I didn't get an answer to you sooner! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator in line after the fuel pump. These carbs only need a few pounds of fuel pressure and the floats may not be able to shut off anything over 4 or 5 lbs pressure. A proper fuel pump ( not electric ) might be your first cure. Check your choke flaps to see if they're working right. I don't have a regulator after the pump-if I can get one, what PSI do I want one for, or one set to? Thanks! Michael
[MBZ] Thanks for all the help on my 250C!
I just wanted to write in at this time and thank everyone that has chimed in and helped with suggestions on my 250C trouble. It has gotten a bit frustrating for me, and having some new outlooks have helped. I am going to start in this afternoon on some of your new approaches and see where that gets me. Here is a summary of what I know about the car: '72 250C w/50K original miles. Dual Zenith carbs-just rebuilt by me. I am no pro, but have probably rebuilt 30 or so carbs in the past ten or twelve years-mostly simple things like old Hollys, but also some Carters, whatever an MG had on it (I think they were some kind of Zenith, too), something off of a Renault, and whatever was on a '72 dart with a 318? Sat for app 4-5 years before I purchased it in January. Supposedly ran fine when parked prior to that. I had it running shortly after bringing it home, but once I had it running and holding idle, it would move under its own power, but only get up to about 20-25 MPH, and then would plateau. It would not stop running, not surge, not cough or sputter, but simply would not go any faster-it actually, I think, once got up to enough speed that it kicked into third on the auto transmission, but never went any faster. Not long after this I started having trouble with it even staying running. I will admit that, at first, I was trying to run it on the old fuel in its tank. I since began running it on an aux tank of fresh gas. I just rebuilt the carbs in the past three weeks to see if this helped. I can now get it to start, but have to use a spritz of ether or a dribble of gas in the carb to get it to start. Once running, it sounds pretty good. However, once running, it also seems to die after about 20-30 seconds at best. If I try to restart it will TRY to start, but won't quite go. If I reprime it with ether/gas, it will start again a few times, then won't (flooding?). I know that the wire to one cut-off selenoid that screws into the base of the carbs is off, and is not of a length that I can easily repair it. The other is still on and attached. SO, today I am going to: Change the condensor Check the ignition module beneath the battery tray Look for two boxes and vacuum diaphragms on the left (passenger) inner fender and see how they look. Check the points gap and the points. Any other suggestions for right now-just trying to update and summarize so that everyone knows what has been done and what is being done. Thanks! J. Michael Shaw, II, D.C. (478)288-0420
[MBZ] Cost of Dist Condensor
I just went to two of my local parts houses. One said they couldn;t even
get the condensor for my car ('72 250C), and the other said they could have
one here tomorrow morning. However, the cost for it was $25.00, basically.
Does that sound right? I thought someone on this list that recommended I
try changing it said it would only be about $5.00.
I have the extra money, but don't want to pay it if it is ridiculously
improportionatley expensive.
What should it cost?
Thanks!
Michael
Re: [MBZ] Cost of Dist Condensor
Joseph Shaw wrote:
I just went to two of my local parts houses. One said they couldn;t
even
get the condensor for my car ('72 250C), and the other said they could
have
one here tomorrow morning. However, the cost for it was $25.00,
basically.
Does that sound right? I thought someone on this list that recommended
I
try changing it said it would only be about $5.00.
Except for the mounting bracket, condensors is condensors. You might see if
there's a VW part that fits.
That was kind of my theory-which is why I thought I would try my local parts
houses. I figured, There are only so many levels of 'condensing' that can
possibly need to be done! And I thought maybe some same level condensor
was used for something more common. But, of course, not according to the
books!!!
Anyway, I have looked at Rusty'a site, and there are still two options, so I
have tried to call him about four times now and only gotten the
machine-during his announced hours. SO I guess this is not meant to be for
this week's project list!
Thanks for the suggestion, though!
Michael
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Okay-cannot seem to get a condensor for now. Cannot seem to access any of the connectors to the ignition module under the battery tray for now. I went out and looked, and yes, to whomever asked, there are two small black boxes and two small vacuum diaphragm style modules on the passenger inner fender. Underneath these were two small vacuum hoses that were going to nothing. One of the vacuum modules had a vacuum hose connected, while the other had an open port on its top, and two open ones underneath. Before doing anything, I hooked up a CLEAN fuel supply, and tried to start it-no go on its own. I gave it a spritz of starting fluid and it roared to life, and sounded pretty good for about 10 seconds, then began to dwindle and died after it struggled to stay alive under my feathering of the accelerator pedal for about five more seconds. I tried to start it again-no go, tried to open the choke setting slightly-had it almost completely closed. No start. Tried it like this with starter fluid. No start. Attached the two vacuum lines. No start. Tried this set up with starter fluid. No start. Switched vacuum lines and tried again. No start. Closed choke back down, tried. No. Starter fluid. No. So after the initial run, which was longer than it would have lasted with just the starter fluid, it would not start even when primed with starter fluid. So I am back to thinking that ther ehas to be a flooding issue. Anyone agree, or am I just an idiot? Thanks! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Just wanted to thank everyone that has piped in with info and suggestions on this project. I have been being VERY concerned about this thing, and to get a little more input is very valuable. I feel much better about the TON of fuel it is drinking, as someone reminded me that it has an overflow line back to the carb, which it does! So thanks to all! I'll keep you updated on how it goes! Michael In a message dated 7/5/2005 11:33:55 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I will also say that it just GUZZLES gas-like if I fill a pint bottle of gas and have it hooked up to the pump, by the time the ten-twenty seconds are over, the bottle is empty. That would equate to a gallon every 2.5 minutes, which would be 2.5 MPG if travelling at 65 MPH! Any suggestions? I have the proper/recommended after-market electric fuel pump on it, but, again, this si the one that is SUPPOSED to be the proper one. It had the same problem before I put this pump on it, but still had an electric-of the same PSI rating. It had not been run for about five years prior to me buying it, if that adds any info of note. Michael, Doesn't that fuel system have a return line back to the tank. That would be where your excess fuel is going. Also, the ones I am familiar with would have a pressure regulator (restrictor) in the return line. If that is not functioning you may not be building enough pressure to overcome the float resistance. Let us know what you find. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 136 K miles ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
How's the ignition? Does your car have that bastardized semi-electronic/semi-breaker point setup with the control box conveniently located under the battery tray? If so, an aftermarket electronic ignition like a Pertronix would make a big difference. The stock setup is a huge headache. I'd also second the advisory to look at the fuel cutoff solenoids in the carburetor bases. If they aren't energizing, your car will never run right. Russ M Uhm To bew honest, Russ, I don't know jack about this ignition set-up yet. But I do know that it starts well when it starts, and does give a good spark when I check at the plugs! Now, as for those fuel cutoff selenoids in the base of the carburetor, I don;t suppose those are the long, culindrical items that are sticking into the base of the carbs from thew front side with a red wire running to them? If so, that is a new problem...When removing the carbs I accidentally tore one of them, but figured they were something like the choke, and likely I could at least get things running without them working right. Problem is that I broke the wire RIGHT where it goes into the selenoid, and there wasn't even enough remnant wire to try and splice together or anything. SO, next question-where do I find another fuel cutoff selenoid??? THANKS for mentioning this-I thought I could get a ballpark idea of how well it would run without worrying about this, but apparently this may be a problem!!! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Joseph Shaw wrote: It also supposedly ran fine when parked four or five years prior, which I have come to believe, only because everything else I was told by the prior owners has proven to be true, and they seemed pretty honest about it when I bought it, so I trust them at their word at this point. In a few years, gas can turn into a hard, varnishlike substance. Your carbs may be clogged with this and in need of a good soaking in solvent. Mitch- Sorry-I didn't include this information again, but that was what I just did-removed, cleaned, and rebuilt the carbs. And I don't mean to poo-poo this idea, but I di think that sometimes this factor is over-rated! I have truthfully, honestly bought cars that have been sitting for fifteen years, and run them on the gas that was in their tank when I got them. It is very pre-sitting maintenance, sitting location and climate related, but I rarely find one that the gas is so bad that it affects this too much. Now I will also say that I NEVER do this on a valuable car, but I am one of those that likes to find some old car sitting in a field and buy it and bring it back to life, so often I am dealing with something that no one thinks can be saved anyway, so it is a low risk situation. But please don't get me wrong, I appreciate the advice, and in this car, I think it is very valid advice! Thanks! Michael
[MBZ] Need an obscure carb screw for my dual Zenith!
Anyone know a size for the SMALL screw that serves as a cam adjusting screw inside the heat-activated choke on the dual Zenith's on my '72 250C? I have rebuilt them, and the rear one did not have a screw that catches against the cam on the lever arm inside the spring activated choke housing. I got the smallest screw I could at Auto Zone, which says it is an M4/.7 or something and it is still too large (in diameter-won't even go in the hole). Anyone know where to find something obscure like this, or was the second carb not even supposed to have one. I am trying to make sure before I reinstall, as it will be tougher to put one in with the carb on the engine!!! Thanks! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Diesel Conversion into my 250C
Ed- Well, first, let me thank you for at least giving me SOME sort of answer. I appreciate it! I guess I was speaking/writing from my experience on a couple of other lists I am on. I am on an old Toyota Celicas list, and on an IHC (International Harvesters) list. Both of these forums are very free-form and creative, and I enjoy hearing many tales about conversion issues. The thing is, with both of these, there are many incestuous major conversions that are very easily possible, so perhaps I am spoiled. With the Celicas, many of the engines are simply later and more progressive versions of the same engine, and thus, swapping different engines are quite easy. With the IH's, things are even more basic, and almost anything is very possible with a hoist, a wrench, and a couple hours. There are some minor variations, and in the '70's when, for a period, their demand outweighed their productivity, they threw some AMC engines into their chassis. Outside of those few specialty vehicles, many IH's swaps are simple bolt-out and bolt-in applications. And since these groups (Toyota and IH) are a couple of the few vehicles I respect as having longevity similar to the older Mercedes. Thus, for some reason, I assumed the same simplicity may be part of Mercedes success. Perhaps this is so, perhaps not. SO, if anyone is still paying attention, and having had a 300D, and looked at, tinkered with, and dealt with several 240D'D and a 280D(?) some point, I thought the set-ups looked very similar. Thus, I thought someone could tell me if, with the exception of the vacuum locks, etc, this was a simple bolt-in and bolt-out propsition. Yes, I realize that with a grinder, a welder, and some metal, you can fit about anything into about anything, I was very curious of the 300D engine fit onto the same motor mounts, fit in the same general front-to-back area, etc, so that I would not have to mod tranny mounts, etc. With an IH this is possible. With many Toyotas this is possible. SO, IS THIS POSSIBLE WITH A MERCEDES? To make this swap without a welder and a grinder? There-maybe that question makes my main inquiry clearer. Thanks for the input, and for showing me the flaw in my line of questioning! Michael Mike, Let me let you in on a galactic secret *anything* is possible :) There is no such limit as impossible, only highly improbable. I've seen really really odd things. (and I mean really odd) I've seen a De Lorean DMC-12 with a Mazda Wankel Rotary I've seen a Chevrolet S-10 with a Mercedes I4 Diesel I've seen a Volkswagen Beetle with a GM V6 I've seen a House Fly I've seen a Stir Fry I've seen just about everything, but I've never seen an elephant fly. Sorry, got on a roll there. The point is this, anything you can possible imagine, dream up, think of, write down, draft out on paper, or simply talk about concerning a car can be done. The only question you need to ask is this: Is this economical enough for me to consider doing within my budget? Anything else is gravy. I mean, on the Beetle (Old Beetle) they had to route coolant lines through the chassis, make fundimental changes in the way the body mounted, put a radiator beneath the trunk and gas tank and at the proper angle that it would be able to keep the V6 (which didn't fit under the hood anyway and had to have this whale tail like thing crafted and put over it) cooled. But tell you what, you guys get me a 250C and an old 300D, and I'll make it work, put together diagrams, put up a website, etc and then everyone can do it. But they have to be free, 250C rust free and 300D engine running :) Everything else is gravy. On 6/23/05, Joseph Shaw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Clay- Well, not sure if I will ever get the chance! I have not gotten ANY feedback from anyone here that has done it or even said it was possible! I figured someone would have done this before, or some mechanic that is on thelist would know or something. Unfortunately for me I am not in an area where there are many Benz's around, so I have no access to look at a couple of diesel engines and see if the mounts are similar! I may have to drive 60 miles to where the one is for sale and see if I can look at it!!! I'll keep you posted if I find anything. Michael -- Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Diesel Conversion into my 250C
Mike, My $0.02, as long as the engine was installed in a 115 before, it will install in a 114. You may have to deal with firewall and torque items, but as Ed points out, a cherry body 250 and a rust bucket 300D with motor within spec 616 engine, and you are golden Good info, guys! Thanks! This is the general direction of what I need to know! I will let you know if I ever get a chance to do a direct comparison and see what I can come up with! Michael
Re: [MBZ] Diesel Conversion into my 250C
Thanks, Kaleb- Again, EXCELLENT advice and info-exactly the kind of info I was looking for! Unfortunately, I just let a '75 300D get away that was one of the possible donors I was thinking of. The one that is nearby is a later one-'80 or so, so I guess it won't work! I really appreciate your input! BTW, mine is not a pristine 250C by any means, and has some small rust spots. Was redone some years back, and not done great, but was done decent. There are a few isolated weak spots that are rusting, and unfortunately, rusting enough that there are a few small holes here and there. However, it does LOOK good, and is definitely savable and worth saving. Now, here is another factor I hadn't thrown in, which will make some of you go, WHAT THE SAM HILL ARE YOU THINKING??? but my 250C has supposedly an original 50K. I was only thinking about the diesel for the fuel economy factor, and because I am afraid I may NEVER get the carbs synched real well again after this rebuild! So, IF I do this, I will have a good, low-mile 250 (2.8) engine for sale is the good news, I guess! Thanks again! Michael Thanks! Michael The only thing that would be of concern is if the hood line is lower on the coupe than the sedan, making the engine too tall. A person would probably just have to measure the height of the engine to see. If would have to be a 617 from a 75 or 76 300D though, which would be hard to find. You cant use an engine out of a 123 because the oil filter housing is in the wrong spot and will not fit. OK Don wrote: I think it was John from Texas who has put a 617 engine into a 114 chassis - sig is Ajaguar ? Haven't sen any posts from him in a few days - must be our driving one of his Benz's. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] '72 250/8 Carb Removal
Jaime- THANKS so much! I had thought about this possibility, but still couldn't figure out if I could get a good angle on theose inner bolts/nuts. I appreciate the input!!! I am going back out to work on her in about 30 minutes-may have another rain-free day here, which has been rare lately! Of course, now I have to put back in the manifold bolts that I was able to get out before I realized I could NOT get to that last one up front (covered by the AC compressor!) I have not looked at the scan yet, but will check on it, and I REALLY appreciate the info/advice! Thanks, man! Michael Hi Michael, You're in luck... I just did this last weekend! The trick is to remove the valve cover. Then you can access the two inside bolts per carb with a short 12mm open ended wrench. The out side ones are not bad to access... you might have to remove a few odds and ends, but not much. My car is a w108, but nearly the same setup as yours. Last weekend I pulled off the carbs, then the exhaust, and finally the manifolds. Today I'll replace the starter, start rebuilding the head risers in the manifolds and reseal one of the carbs. Hopefully my new parts (including a stainless exhuast) will arrive for assembly next weekend. Let me know if you have any questions along the way... I've done alot of work with these carbs. You might find this manual I scanned helpful as well: http://www.jaimekop.com/CarbManual/ Good luck! '84 300SD '71 220D '67 250S Jaime On Jun 16, 2005, at 10:56 AM, Joseph Shaw wrote: Hi! I am seeking some wise old sage advice on this project. It is a '72 250C, which sat for several years. I am trying to rebuild the carbs, but it seems QUITE difficult to get the carbs off! Upon trying to reach a few of the bolts/nuts that hold it on, I have come to discover that it may be a remove the intake manifold, THEN the carbs from the manifold design. However, that seems a bit laborious to me. Is it meant to be done that way or not? Is it possible to get them off without removing the intake manifold? And if so, how? And if not, how does one remove the intake manifold? There are so many add-ons on the carb (choke, vacuum diaphragms, etc) that I cannot even see what holds the intake manifold on! I have bought the CD version of the manual that is SUPPOSED to show everything you would ever want to do to any model from '68-'93. It shows how to work on some things, but not how to get them off to work on them. I then bought a Haynes manual. It simply says, to work on the carbs, remove the nuts that attach them to the intake manifold. No explanation of how to take off the manifolds, whether to take the manifold off to access them, etc. So anyone that has worked on the dual carb set-up, please let me know. Thanks! Michael ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] '72 250/8 Carb Removal
From: Jaime Kopchinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] '72 250/8 Carb Removal Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 08:35:20 -0400 Hi Michael, You're in luck... I just did this last weekend! The trick is to remove the valve cover. Then you can access the two inside bolts per carb with a short 12mm open ended wrench. The out side ones are not bad to access... you might have to remove a few odds and ends, but not much. My car is a w108, but nearly the same setup as yours. Last weekend I pulled off the carbs, then the exhaust, and finally the manifolds. Today I'll replace the starter, start rebuilding the head risers in the manifolds and reseal one of the carbs. Hopefully my new parts (including a stainless exhuast) will arrive for assembly next weekend. Let me know if you have any questions along the way... I've done alot of work with these carbs. You might find this manual I scanned helpful as well: http://www.jaimekop.com/CarbManual/ Good luck! '84 300SD '71 220D '67 250S Jaime- Okay, went back out to go to work, and have discovered that I have yet another problem. I DID take off the valve cover, and this did allow me to get the carbs off pretty easily (well, only took one off for right now-leaving one on so I can have it as a reference piece when reinstalling the other!). However, something I had discovered when trying to take the top off the carb even while it sat on the engine (first plan of attack was to try to disassemble it from the top down while still mounted) is that my carbs do not have a screw holding them down under the air cleaner mounting pillar. The manual I got says there should be screw there, countersunk under the air cleaner mounting pillar/bolt. On mine the surface underneath that bolt is very smooth, and does not appear tp be a screw that has been burred off, or rounded off, but simply a solid surface with no slot, phillips indentation, nor heax head hole or anything. Both carbs look like this. Was this a modification done in the last year of the Zenith's used like this (according to your manual)? There were a couple things where it says, Up until '72. Sound right to you? I only ask because the top of the carb still does NOT want to come off. It says in the manual that you will need to pry it off with a couple of screwdrivers, but I am trying and prying and it still doesn't seem to want to let loos. And, of course, I don't want to be bending things up on the carbs!!! Let me know if this sounds familiar or makes any sense to you. Thanks! J. Michael Shaw, II, (478)288-0420
Re: [MBZ] '72 250/8 Carb Removal
Check for dirt that has become compressed over the years in the center hole. There should be a screw in there. Using a fine pick, clean out that hole and the head of the screw. A blow with compressed air will take the loosened dirt out. Ensure this dirt does not get into your motor or down into the carb. Ensure you are not using too large of a screw driver as that will prevent you from getting to the screw head. Using screw drivers to pry the top off will mar the mating surfaces and likely warp the carb top. A light tap with a rubber mallet at most should make the top loosen from carb body; then it should just pull off. I have never needed to pry the top off with a screw driver in my near 20 years of working on these cars. Mathieu Cama Old World Automotive Mathieu- Thanks a TON for the advice and info! I have kept digging and digging down into the hole where the air cleaner pillar goes and have still not come to any screw down there. I am letting it soak with a little bit of carb cleaner in the hole and came in to see if I had gotten any feedback. I appreciate your writing and advice. But let me tell you a bit more: I bought the rebuild kits from Rusty that is always so highly recommended on the list. I am sure the kits are fine, but the diagram is ONLY a diagram-no instructions at all or part names or descriptions. The picture/diagram is also a xerox of an original, and the quality is not that great, so it is of minimal help. However, in my new Haynes manual that I found for it, it does have more thorough instructions, as well as the same diagram-just one that you can see. SO it is going from the Haynes manual that I am getting the following info. First, it says to remove the 9 screws that are holding the cover to the carb jet block. Well, I did NOT, as you know, find one in the air cleaner pillar hole, but I DID have nine screws that were holding the top down. This is why I thought there may have been some alteration made from '71 to '72. So, I have removed the nine screws that hold the cover on, but have not removed one from the air cleaner pillar hole. SO-should there STILL definitely be one down there? Second, I only tried the pry with a screwdriver method because that is exactly what it says to do, and even illustrates it, in the manual (Fig. 3.47 on page 66). It says, Prise the cover off, using one or two screwdrivers carefully inserted at the flange joint. And it shows a screwdriver being pried in between the cover and the main body of the carb. I know that I had never heard of using this kind of technique in carb work before, but figure if the book says so, it must be something intersting in these covers and main bodies, and that they come apart harder than most other carbs. Anyway, even with repeated attempts at prying, going all around the edge, I cannot get the middle stuff to loosen. I am continuing to try to dig debris out of the air cleaner pillar hole, and am putting a phillips head in there and turning, then a flat head in there and turning, trying to get more gook out. I fear I am digging into soft metal at this point. How far beneath the air cleaner pillar base should the next screw be? And WHAT woudl allow a considerable amount of debris in there that would dry hard enough and smooth enough looking to seem almost like soft metal flaking away? Especially when the air cleaner pillar HAS been screwed in there and covering the hole for the whole time??? Any more advcie from anyone? Thanks! Michael (478)288-0420
