Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
Jim Cathey wrote: We've got one, but I've got these three Olympus D-300L's that are perfect web picture takers. No trip through photoshop required, the 512x384 low resolution setting is ideal. The picture resolution is a setting on most cameras. Even my brand new Canon SX10 (SLR wannabe) has a 640x480 setting. Besides, the _new_ camera is also too new to talk to this computer, so it's really the same journey but starting on a different machine. Why is it 'too new'? I have an older USB camera that you're welcome to use. If a USB card reader would work with your computer it uses xD cards... John ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net said: I just bought a cast-off Digital Rebel from a coworker. Its lowest resolution setting is 1500x1000, so I'm going to have to dust off my pbm utilities. On a Mac, check out the sips(1) command. Image processing from the command line. Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
All this verbal description and NO picture?! Taking them is easy, getting them onto the computer is not. So I don't do it much. (It's an old camera, with only a serial port. I have to fire up the old Mac, fight with the wonky KVM switch and risk loss of keyboard or mouse accessibility, link them on the network then copy the file. A royal pain. Also, as we're getting our bandwidth and web hosting for free I try to minimize my impact on them so I tend to use words and not pictures anyway.) Besides, your imagination is much better for this kind of thing! I _did_ leave the microwave's warning sticker on the new side cover of the welder. No user serviceable parts inside... -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 00:13:33 -0800 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote: I _did_ leave the microwave's warning sticker on the new side cover of the welder. No user serviceable parts inside... Cute! Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
sounds like you need to spend $30 and get you a modern digital camera. Jim Cathey wrote: All this verbal description and NO picture?! Taking them is easy, getting them onto the computer is not. So I don't do it much. (It's an old camera, with only a serial port. I have to fire up the old Mac, fight with the wonky KVM switch and risk loss of keyboard or mouse accessibility, link them on the network then copy the file. A royal pain. Also, as we're getting our bandwidth and web hosting for free I try to minimize my impact on them so I tend to use words and not pictures anyway.) Besides, your imagination is much better for this kind of thing! I _did_ leave the microwave's warning sticker on the new side cover of the welder. No user serviceable parts inside... -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.13/1914 - Release Date: 1/24/2009 8:40 PM -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
sounds like you need to spend $30 and get you a modern digital camera. We've got one, but I've got these three Olympus D-300L's that are perfect web picture takers. No trip through photoshop required, the 512x384 low resolution setting is ideal. Besides, the _new_ camera is also too new to talk to this computer, so it's really the same journey but starting on a different machine. I like words anyway, and I need to keep the picture content down if I want to continue to get free (and ad-free) wireless service and hosting. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
I used the $50 Hobart to fix the tears in my car trailer's fenders today. It worked well enough with the flux-core wire. (Not as easily as welding I've done with gas and the Miller.) Since it was working for me, I decided to finish it up. The wire chamber needed a cover, otherwise welding spatter could damage the guts or the wire spool, or the unused loose pieces of the feed mechanism could get lost, or it could get kicked and broken. Not good to have it exposed, anyway. I got out the old microwave oven that I've been using for sheet metal. I ground off all the little rivets that held the back on, since it was the only piece big enough to serve. I hammered over the flanges to make the piece stiffer along the two starting edges (bottom and rear). With that done, and with the big relief that's stamped into it, the piece is actually quite stiff even though it is fairly thin sheet metal. I used the Sawzall to cut off the excess along the forward edge, leaving enough extra to form another flange. I bent this over and hammered it flat. I then got out a scrap concrete form 'nail' and ground and shaped its end. I welded it onto the forward edge of the cover such that it was a hinge pin for the one side, then I cut off the excess and reshaped the remainder to be the second, sliding pin. I cut a piece of sheet metal to form a channel for the pin, then I welded it to the cover at the bottom edge by the hinge site. With that in place I hammered it over the sliding pin, then welded down the other edge. The pin now slides (with a hammer) in its channel, pinning into the other hinge socket. The cover now flips up and down. Because the top corners need to be chamfered I marked them where they needed to be cut, then I cut them off and cleaned up the roughness. I was going to cut off the excess top and make a flange there too, and then come up with some sort of a latch, but the existing flange was exactly the right height to form a friction fit with the top of the welder. It's good enough as it sits, it doesn't really need a latch. I then primed and painted the messed-up parts of the new cover. It's not at all 'factory', but it will do just fine. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 14:20:36 -0800 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote: Since it was working for me, I decided to finish it up All this verbal description and NO picture?! Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
I tackled the melted feedthrough on that dropped Hobart this morning. It was seriously corroded and messed up. A mongo session with various wire brushes cleaned up the metal parts. The plastic, though heavily melted, seems to be still usable. I'm guessing that the feedthrough was loose and started to heat some. Once it melted the plastic enough this released clamping tension between the metal parts and it loosened up even more, compounding the problem. Cleaned and tightened, it should be OK again. I put it back together and fed in the crap HF fluxless wire I bought last week. It fed fine. I welded onto a piece of scrap sheet metal (the cut-out section of Unimog fuel tank) and it seemed to work fine. The four heat settings are different, and it's easy to punch holes in the sheet metal except on the lowest setting. I'm going to call it fixed. Now I'm just trying to put it all back together. Shoe Goo is going to feature prominently on the broken plastic end-caps! $50 wire-feed welder, not too bad! Name brand, even. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
On Sun, 18 Jan 2009 09:41:12 -0800 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote: I welded onto a piece of scrap sheet metal (the cut-out section of Unimog fuel tank) Doesn't the Unimog need this? Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
Been working on my 1983 300D Turbo. Two questions: 1. Is the green vacuum line valve that connects directly to the top of the transmission control valve that sits on top of the injector pump, a one way valve, a filter, or what? The car hasn't shifted well since the Indy worked on it and he replaced the green valve with a one way black and white valve. He must have thrown away the green valve. 2. Do you have to remove the ignition switch in order to replace the vacuum switch that shuts off the fuel to the injector pump. Tracked down a bad vacuum leak and it was the problem. Have the new vacuum switch on hand. Thanks, Gerry -- next part -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.8/1899 - Release Date: 1/17/2009 5:50 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
I think you can replace the valve without removing the switch, but it would be a pain. Would probably be easier to remove the switch. Archer wrote: Been working on my 1983 300D Turbo. Two questions: 1. Is the green vacuum line valve that connects directly to the top of the transmission control valve that sits on top of the injector pump, a one way valve, a filter, or what? The car hasn't shifted well since the Indy worked on it and he replaced the green valve with a one way black and white valve. He must have thrown away the green valve. 2. Do you have to remove the ignition switch in order to replace the vacuum switch that shuts off the fuel to the injector pump. Tracked down a bad vacuum leak and it was the problem. Have the new vacuum switch on hand. Thanks, Gerry -- next part -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.8/1899 - Release Date: 1/17/2009 5:50 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.9/1900 - Release Date: 1/18/2009 12:11 PM -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
Thanks, Kaleb. Gerry -- From: Kaleb C. Striplin I think you can replace the valve without removing the switch, but it would be a pain. Would probably be easier to remove the switch. Archer wrote: Been working on my 1983 300D Turbo. Two questions: 1. Is the green vacuum line valve that connects directly to the top of the transmission control valve that sits on top of the injector pump, a one way valve, a filter, or what? The car hasn't shifted well since the Indy worked on it and he replaced the green valve with a one way black and white valve. He must have thrown away the green valve. 2. Do you have to remove the ignition switch in order to replace the vacuum switch that shuts off the fuel to the injector pump. Tracked down a bad vacuum leak and it was the problem. Have the new vacuum switch on hand. Thanks, Gerry -- next part -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.8/1899 - Release Date: 1/17/2009 5:50 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
I welded onto a piece of scrap sheet metal (the cut-out section of Unimog fuel tank) Doesn't the Unimog need this? No, this is the piece of the tank that was holed when I dropped the crane on it. It was rusty under the strap hanger, so I ended up just cutting it out and using fresh metal to replace it. That rusty, bent, brazed, welded chunk is still kicking around, so I threw the Hobart at it for fun. I am now Shoe-Gooing up the rear plastic endcap of the welder, the one that took the brunt of the drop. An entire corner is missing, so I cut a piece of 2x4 and am gluing it into the corner to take its place. This is one of the four 'feet' on the bottom of the unit. I'm also gluing up the splits and cracks in it. I use a dot of cyanacrylate glue and accelerant to tack things into place, then smear with Goo for strength. That's why I like welding: it's done immediately. Glue takes so long to dry... -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net writes: That's why I like welding: it's done immediately. Glue takes so long to dry... Harbor Freight and China Surplus had a plastic welder in their latest flyer. I've already tossed it so don't know the catalog number. I think it was about $12. Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
Harbor Freight and China Surplus had a plastic welder in their latest flyer. Got one! It works slightly better than nothing, but I've never had much luck with it. Shoe Goo works a lot better where you can use it. The biggest problem with welding plastic is that you need a pretty close match on filler material, and there's a lot of different plastics out there. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
I just looked at the plastic welders on Harbor Freight Tools web site and if I were to buy one, it would be this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96712 Here's all three: http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=plastic+weld er I would not choose the cheap one because the temperature is not adjustable. Also, it's listed as a PVC welder, not a plastic welder. I would choose the most expensive over the middle priced one only because for $10.00 difference, you don't need a separate air supply and don't have to deal with the bulky air hose. But I don't have a clue what I'd do with it! Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 6:15 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again Harbor Freight and China Surplus had a plastic welder in their latest flyer. Got one! It works slightly better than nothing, but I've never had much luck with it. Shoe Goo works a lot better where you can use it. The biggest problem with welding plastic is that you need a pretty close match on filler material, and there's a lot of different plastics out there. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.8/1899 - Release Date: 1/17/2009 5:50 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.8/1899 - Release Date: 1/17/2009 5:50 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
The post was probably the problem. Just like a high current starter circuit, it does not take too much resistance to mess things up. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 12:34 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again Today I bought a Hobart Handler 120 that had been dropped, for $50. The guy I bought it from had bought it from a rental place. He'd replaced the broken fan blade and said that while it did work, it would only put out low power. He could use it for tacking, but not much more. He replaced it with a Lincoln 140, which he's very happy with. This Hobart, by the way, is old-school, with a big transformer, two big diodes, and a reactor. As well as a big capacitor with a bleed resistor. (Not inverter based.) Not much to go wrong. The four-position heat switch just feeds different primary taps on the transformer. Well, I went through it, even so far as to remove the diode pack and test (sort of) each one of the six. I could find nothing wrong. The open-circuit voltage out of the transformer changes with each of the four settings, and is up to 40V side-to-side. (About 20V center-tap to either side.) The DC output is only 26-27V at maximum, rather than the 29V specified, though the two lowest settings are pretty close. Current is balanced in the two transformer sides, according to my clampmeter. Using jumper cables I hooked up a load wire to the welder, the load wire was the interior spring from an old radiator hose! I can make it glow red hot on each of the four settings, and the time it takes to do so is proportionate to the heat setting knob. The output current (variable) is about the same on each setting, but the voltage is different. I guess it appears to be working right, but I haven't tried actually welding with it yet. One thing I did notice was that the + terminal post in the wire feed chamber was melted, it looks like it might been put on loose and then heated up, or perhaps it got corroded and did the same. I suppose it's possible that this was its only problem, I'll certainly look into that before I actually try to weld with it. My idea was to have a second welder, one that was set up for either flux-core wire or aluminum. For $50 I couldn't pass it up, I think I could part it out for that if I had to. The gun's in good shape and the feed mechanism works. (The case, of course, is not---the back cover is broken and it's missing the feed chamber side plate.) Thoughts? This certainly will not be replacing my Miller 180, which I bought brand new, but it's always nice to have a spare! I'm not sure it'll be up to running aluminum, that takes more heat and wire speed than steel, and this _is_ a lightweight 110V unit after all. It's also the 'loaner'. Nobody borrows 220V equipment, but a 110V welder could easily be loaned out. And at $50 I'm not too worried about it, either! (The Miller was 10x that price. More, with the bottle.) It could also run off of a generator, I suppose, for portable welding. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.5/1881 - Release Date: 1/7/2009 5:59 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.5/1883 - Release Date: 1/8/2009 6:05 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
Did he throw in some old microwave ovens as a bonus? --R Jim Cathey wrote: Today I bought a Hobart Handler 120 that had been dropped, for $50. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders, again
Did he throw in some old microwave ovens as a bonus? Nah, I've still got plenty left! -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders (again)
The copper in it is probably worth near that. --R Jim Cathey wrote: Tomorrow I'm scheduled to go look at a Linde UCC-305 TIG that is offered for $300. Around 35 cents/lb! Supposedly complete, though minus cooling tank, but has a problem striking and keeping an arc. The HF is supposed to be just fine. Rated 2-305 amps, AC/DC, stick and/or TIG. With any luck it's just bad contacts on the big contactor. We'll see. If repairable, it should be preferable to the Harbor Freight cheapie that's in that price range. If any of the transformers are shot, I don't want it. Everything else should be easy to repair, it's big-iron low tech stuff. But how to tell... -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders (again)
Rich Thomas wrote: The copper in it is probably worth near that. Pure copper is $3.83 a pound. Not sure what recyclers pay. http://quotes.ino.com/exchanges/futboard/ I was looking forward to the Jim Cathey transformer rewinding project, too bad he claims he's not going to go that far. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Welders (again)
The copper in it is probably worth near that. I heard a rumor that this monster (Linde UCC-305) was actually wound with aluminum. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
I guess the current model would be the Lincoln Power MIG 140C. Local supplier has the Power MIG 180C for $125 more, it's the 208/230 version. Since I have 230 in my garage, I'm tempted by that. Thoughts? I read their comparison to Miller: http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/e7242.pdf of course it's biased but I thought it was pretty convincing. Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'll back up what Zach said about the Lincoln SP135; it's a sweet setup. I love its ease of use and quality US-built construction. I think I paid ~$300, three years ago. On 6/5/07, Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) -- 1983 300D 1966 230
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
version. Since I have 230 in my garage, I'm tempted by that. Thoughts? I think that welders with 220V plugs on them get borrowed a lot less. And they can weld heavier materials. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
The fact that you can add a spoolgun to the Lincoln 140C and 180C for $200 makes it a no-brainer in my book. If I need portability, I bring a generator. Even the cheap ones supply 240V. That tilts the balance towards the 180. -Dave Walton On 6/6/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I guess the current model would be the Lincoln Power MIG 140C. Local supplier has the Power MIG 180C for $125 more, it's the 208/230 version. Since I have 230 in my garage, I'm tempted by that. Thoughts? I read their comparison to Miller: http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/e7242.pdf of course it's biased but I thought it was pretty convincing. Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'll back up what Zach said about the Lincoln SP135; it's a sweet setup. I love its ease of use and quality US-built construction. I think I paid ~$300, three years ago. On 6/5/07, Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) -- 1983 300D 1966 230 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
http://www.oxygenservicecompany.com/page119.html Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of dave walton Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 9:39 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again The fact that you can add a spoolgun to the Lincoln 140C and 180C for $200 makes it a no-brainer in my book. If I need portability, I bring a generator. Even the cheap ones supply 240V. That tilts the balance towards the 180. -Dave Walton On 6/6/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I guess the current model would be the Lincoln Power MIG 140C. Local supplier has the Power MIG 180C for $125 more, it's the 208/230 version. Since I have 230 in my garage, I'm tempted by that. Thoughts? I read their comparison to Miller: http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/e7242.pdf of course it's biased but I thought it was pretty convincing. Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'll back up what Zach said about the Lincoln SP135; it's a sweet setup. I love its ease of use and quality US-built construction. I think I paid ~$300, three years ago. On 6/5/07, Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) -- 1983 300D 1966 230 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
It seems than at Wed, 6 Jun 2007 19:10:17 -0700, Jim wrote: version. Since I have 230 in my garage, I'm tempted by that. Thoughts? I think that welders with 220V plugs on them get borrowed a lot less. And it's more difficult to borrow them yourself for jobs away from the garage. -- Philip
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
On Wed, 6 Jun 2007 21:47:43 -0500 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://www.oxygenservicecompany.com/page119.html Scroll down to see the less expensive models (and also the more expensive models). Craig
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
I'll back up what Zach said about the Lincoln SP135; it's a sweet setup. I love its ease of use and quality US-built construction. I think I paid ~$300, three years ago. I paid an extra $100 for Miller, and another $100 to get the 220V/175A next larger welder. So far, so good! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
The Harbor Freight TIG is probably the scratch-start DC only unit that my friend has, there is no foot pedal and no AC so you can not weld aluminum... That means it sucks? Setting aside the super-cheap stuff for a moment, I have what I would consider an entry level TIG and it set me back $1800, but it has AC with wavebalance, adjustable weld paramaters, etc, etc. It will do up to 160 amps. The TIG is way cool, I can weld my own aluminum intercooler pipes, do fine repairs on exotic metals, etc. However I want TIG for the odd exotic/small items. I just can't justify that kind of scratch for it. there are a lot of times where I wish I had a MIG as well it is much faster and easier for the day to day stuff. If you dont ever Oh yeah, you need a MIG. It's the first thing I reach for. (The Miller AC stick welder comes out for the big bad jobs, like 1/4 plate welding on the crane frame, hard surfacing, or anything I don't really care about burning holes in like the time I welded wheels on the bottom of the shop oven.) -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 19:05:57 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Setting aside the super-cheap stuff for a moment, I have what I would consider an entry level TIG and it set me back $1800, but it has AC with wavebalance, adjustable weld paramaters, etc, etc. It will do up to 160 amps. The TIG is way cool, I can weld my own aluminum intercooler pipes, do fine repairs on exotic metals, etc. However I want TIG for the odd exotic/small items. I just can't justify that kind of scratch for it. there are a lot of times where I wish I had a MIG as well it is much faster and easier for the day to day stuff. If you dont ever Oh yeah, you need a MIG. It's the first thing I reach for... OK, for those of us who are ignorant, what's the difference. (And I broke out my Dayton buzz-box this past weekend for welding up some 16ga galvanized steel to make a new riser for our water meter cover. I had it down to minimum (about 60 A) and wish it went still lower. Welding the galvanized to the 1/4 steel plate that covers most of the meter pit was difficult. It was the first time I had welded in 20 years. Looks like it, too, but it's not going anywhere.) Craig
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
You must be making welds with muscles! Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 9:47 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 19:05:57 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Setting aside the super-cheap stuff for a moment, I have what I would consider an entry level TIG and it set me back $1800, but it has AC with wavebalance, adjustable weld paramaters, etc, etc. It will do up to 160 amps. The TIG is way cool, I can weld my own aluminum intercooler pipes, do fine repairs on exotic metals, etc. However I want TIG for the odd exotic/small items. I just can't justify that kind of scratch for it. there are a lot of times where I wish I had a MIG as well it is much faster and easier for the day to day stuff. If you dont ever Oh yeah, you need a MIG. It's the first thing I reach for... OK, for those of us who are ignorant, what's the difference. (And I broke out my Dayton buzz-box this past weekend for welding up some 16ga galvanized steel to make a new riser for our water meter cover. I had it down to minimum (about 60 A) and wish it went still lower. Welding the galvanized to the 1/4 steel plate that covers most of the meter pit was difficult. It was the first time I had welded in 20 years. Looks like it, too, but it's not going anywhere.) Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 22:01:06 -0500 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 19:05:57 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I want TIG for the odd exotic/small items. I just can't justify that kind of scratch for it. Oh yeah, you need a MIG. It's the first thing I reach for... OK, for those of us who are ignorant, what's the difference. (And I broke out my Dayton buzz-box this past weekend for welding up some 16ga galvanized steel to make a new riser for our water meter cover. I had it down to minimum (about 60 A) and wish it went still lower. Welding the galvanized to the 1/4 steel plate that covers most of the meter pit was difficult. It was the first time I had welded in 20 years. Looks like it, too, but it's not going anywhere.) You must be making welds with muscles! Huh? Craig
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Some experienced welders call welds with a lumps welds with muscles. It's just a slang term for one of several bad welds. Tom www.kegkits.com Original Message From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 06/05/07 10:54 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 22:01:06 -0500 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 19:05:57 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I want TIG for the odd exotic/small items. I just can't justify that kind of scratch for it. Oh yeah, you need a MIG. It's the first thing I reach for... OK, for those of us who are ignorant, what's the difference. (And I broke out my Dayton buzz-box this past weekend for welding up some 16ga galvanized steel to make a new riser for our water meter cover. I had it down to minimum (about 60 A) and wish it went still lower. Welding the galvanized to the 1/4 steel plate that covers most of the meter pit was difficult. It was the first time I had welded in 20 years. Looks like it, too, but it's not going anywhere.) You must be making welds with muscles! Huh? Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 22:59:29 -0500 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Some experienced welders call welds with a lumps welds with muscles. It's just a slang term for one of several bad welds. Oh! I hadn't heard that term before, but it definitely fits. I made some really good beads, and some really bad ones. Running 1/8 6013 at 90 amps would punch a hole in the vertical 16ga very easily. I ended up making a lump beside the vertical 16ga galvanized with the 6013 and then changing to 3/32 7014 and minimum current to join the galvanized to the lump. Craig
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
The key is a steady hand and knowing how fast to move, so says a welder who's much better than me. Tom www.kegkits.com Original Message From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 06/05/07 11:27 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 22:59:29 -0500 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Some experienced welders call welds with a lumps welds with muscles. It's just a slang term for one of several bad welds. Oh! I hadn't heard that term before, but it definitely fits. I made some really good beads, and some really bad ones. Running 1/8 6013 at 90 amps would punch a hole in the vertical 16ga very easily. I ended up making a lump beside the vertical 16ga galvanized with the 6013 and then changing to 3/32 7014 and minimum current to join the galvanized to the lump. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 22:27:00 -0600 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I ended up making a lump beside the vertical 16ga galvanized with the 6013 and then changing to 3/32 7014 and minimum current to join the galvanized to the lump. That is, a lump made by several passes with the rod to build the bead up above the flat 1/4 plate. Question: When using a stick welder, does one need to clean the slag off the bead before one runs another bead on top of it? Putting the stick down, taking off the helmet, getting the angle grinder, grinding off the slag, putting the helmet back on, picking up the stick and finally running another bead takes awhile. Thanks, Craig
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Yes, you need to clean the weld. Tom www.kegkits.com Original Message From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 06/05/07 11:47 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 22:27:00 -0600 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I ended up making a lump beside the vertical 16ga galvanized with the 6013 and then changing to 3/32 7014 and minimum current to join the galvanized to the lump. That is, a lump made by several passes with the rod to build the bead up above the flat 1/4 plate. Question: When using a stick welder, does one need to clean the slag off the bead before one runs another bead on top of it? Putting the stick down, taking off the helmet, getting the angle grinder, grinding off the slag, putting the helmet back on, picking up the stick and finally running another bead takes awhile. Thanks, Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Question: When using a stick welder, does one need to clean the slag off the bead before one runs another bead on top of it? Putting the As I understand it, yes. (That's one advantage of MIG: no slag.) stick down, taking off the helmet, getting the angle grinder, grinding off the slag, putting the helmet back on, picking up the stick and finally running another bead takes awhile. Chipping hammer? That's what I use. That and an auto-darkening helmet. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
OK, for those of us who are ignorant, what's the difference [TIG/MIG]. MIG is just an automated version of your basic stick welder. It feeds wire from a roll, either flux-core without shielding gas, or plain wire with shielding gas. Otherwise it's a lot like stick welding, the arc is drawn between a consumable electrode and the work. TIG uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to draw an arc to the work. Like gas welding/brazing, you feed in filler rod. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
I'll add to that, TIG can do amazing things, but requires a greater degree of artistic skill and coordination to operate, MIG is darn near idiot proof. I've got the MIG, it even makes my welds look pretty :-) I used to have gas and stick weld setups, but didn't use them much . The mig setup gets used all the time. Easy to setup in a hurry for quick fixes. Hobart had one of their demonstration trucks out at the local Tractor Supply one day letting folks try them out. Those guys are worse than bunch of drug dealers. Within 3 weeks I had one. --Robert Jim Cathey wrote: OK, for those of us who are ignorant, what's the difference [TIG/MIG]. MIG is just an automated version of your basic stick welder. It feeds wire from a roll, either flux-core without shielding gas, or plain wire with shielding gas. Otherwise it's a lot like stick welding, the arc is drawn between a consumable electrode and the work. TIG uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to draw an arc to the work. Like gas welding/brazing, you feed in filler rod. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Interesting you should ask. I recently picked up a Lincoln Handy Mig. It runs off 110v, comes with shielded wire and the conversion equipment to go to gas. I got it on sale from Sears for less than $300 shipped. My Dad had loaned me a cheapie toolshow Arc welder a few months ago and the Mig is WAY easier to use. TIG should also be easy to use but is much more expensive. In retrospect I should have coughed up another $100 for a Hobart Handler. My HandyMig has 2 heat settings which so far has made it hard to weld thin stock. I'm really really good at burning holes in stuff though... -Curt Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2007 20:22:56 -0400 From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] OT: welders, again To: mercedes@oKiEBeNz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Think this was hashed through recently, but since I was not really in the market I glossed over the thread. I have an old Wheel Horse lawn tractor. The mower deck hangs from the a lift mechanism under the tractor by a bracket that is bolted to the deck. The deck sheet metal must be slightly too thin, because over the years metal fatigue has caused the bolts to pull through the deck, taking a small section of the deck with them. The deck is otherwise sound, and the tractor is otherwise built like a tank and very reliable, so I'm thinking of trying to grind the fatigued area back to solid metal and weld in a patch. I've never done any welding, but I can foresee that having a welder could be very handy. Plus for the cost of a new deck for the mower I could probably come very close to buying a welder. So I am wondering what might be a good welder to start off with. My garage is already equipped with a 240 outlet. I've heard that TIG welders have more flexibility but are harder to learn. Would a wire-feed MIG unit be a good choice? How hard is it to learn from books/video? Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230 - Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wed Jun 06 13:29:48 2007 Received: from [127.0.0.1] (helo=mtsqhexc1.mtsqh.com) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.63) (envelope-from [EMAIL PROTECTED]) id 1Hvva7-Q6-CM for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Wed, 06 Jun 2007 13:29:48 + Received: from mtsqhexc1.mtsqh.com ([24.249.104.140] helo=mtsqhexc1.mtsqh.com) by ASSP.nospam; 6 Jun 2007 13:29:47 + content-class: urn:content-classes:message MIME-Version: 1.0 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft Exchange V6.0.6619.12 Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2007 08:27:40 -0500 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-MS-Has-Attach: X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: Thread-Topic: [MBZ] 95 E320 Thread-Index: AceoPoIfrEW6PdwiRHez0b8WnbyZLQ== From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Assp-Delay: not delayed (whitelisted); 6 Jun 2007 13:29:47 + X-Assp-Whitelisted: Yes X-Assp-Envelope-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Assp-Intended-For: mercedes@okiebenz.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp2 Subject: [MBZ] 95 E320 X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp2 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2007 13:29:49 - What problems should I look for in a 95 E320?? Car is said to be well maintained with aprox 120K.=20 =20 I was looking at the same car, Eric, so I will report what I have learned. In 95, they had VERY EXPENSIVE a/c problems you have to replace the evaporator, they also have wiring harness going bad - also pretty expensive if you can't do it yourself. =20 =20 In 95 you won't have the corrosion problems of the later models. The 95 has all the bells and whistles and I think it is the best looking 124. =20 =20 You know what you won't have any of these problems with? A nice 1990 300SEL. :-) =20 =20 =20 Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 137K (For Sale)=20
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That means it sucks? I dont know if it sucks, I havent used it yet. But it is definately very basic. There is a current control on the front panel so I bet you could rig a foot pedal if you did some wiring mods... I want TIG for the odd exotic/small items. I just can't justify that kind of scratch for it. Once you use it you wont regret the $$. I have seen used units for quite a bit less. Welding Aluminum is pretty cool!
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
I dont know if it sucks, I havent used it yet. But it is definately very basic. There is a current control on the front panel so I bet you could rig a foot pedal if you did some wiring mods... So the foot pedal is just the heat potentiometer? Not something like a spark-starter or something else weird? That would be doable, there are plenty of old sewing machine foot-operated rheostats around that I'm sure could be modified to carry the right potentiometer. :-) Once you use it you wont regret the $$. I have seen used units for quite a bit less. Welding Aluminum is pretty cool! I've welded aluminum with the MIG. Most 'impressive' was the hole blown in the side of our tiller's aluminum crankcase. But it doesn't come out pretty. I also welded up the pinholes in some of my Mom's favorite old heavy aluminum pots. Those were a mess, and took a lot of grinding. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Let me point out a safety tip - any skin exposed to light from the arc will sunburn. Same goes for Plasma Cutters (another fun toy). Wear gloves on both hands, long sleeved shirt, and long pants. Welding leathers are nice and look cool. Also keep pets and kids away. They both tend to stare at the arc - not good. You ever see the hot rod or OCC shows where some yahoo will arc weld without any eye or skin protection? You have to be brain dead to try a stunt like that. -Dave Walton On 6/6/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Curt, I have the same welder but bought it at Home Depot. As far as heat settings, the 2 are frustrastingly too few but the wire feed is critical also - you must adjust it also - more than I thought needed - it made a bigger difference than I expected. Anyway, I enjoy learning with it. The biggest advance is welding technology IMHO, is the self-darkening welding hood. it makes life *much* easier. later -- Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 9:01 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again Interesting you should ask. I recently picked up a Lincoln Handy Mig. It runs off 110v, comes with shielded wire and the conversion equipment to go to gas. I got it on sale from Sears for less than $300 shipped. My Dad had loaned me a cheapie toolshow Arc welder a few months ago and the Mig is WAY easier to use. TIG should also be easy to use but is much more expensive. In retrospect I should have coughed up another $100 for a Hobart Handler. My HandyMig has 2 heat settings which so far has made it hard to weld thin stock. I'm really really good at burning holes in stuff though... -Curt Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2007 20:22:56 -0400 From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] OT: welders, again To: mercedes@oKiEBeNz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Think this was hashed through recently, but since I was not really in the market I glossed over the thread. I have an old Wheel Horse lawn tractor. The mower deck hangs from the a lift mechanism under the tractor by a bracket that is bolted to the deck. The deck sheet metal must be slightly too thin, because over the years metal fatigue has caused the bolts to pull through the deck, taking a small section of the deck with them. The deck is otherwise sound, and the tractor is otherwise built like a tank and very reliable, so I'm thinking of trying to grind the fatigued area back to solid metal and weld in a patch. I've never done any welding, but I can foresee that having a welder could be very handy. Plus for the cost of a new deck for the mower I could probably come very close to buying a welder. So I am wondering what might be a good welder to start off with. My garage is already equipped with a 240 outlet. I've heard that TIG welders have more flexibility but are harder to learn. Would a wire-feed MIG unit be a good choice? How hard is it to learn from books/video? Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230 - Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/834 - Release Date: 6/5/2007 2:38 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So the foot pedal is just the heat potentiometer? Not something like a spark-starter or something else weird? That would be doable, there are plenty of old sewing machine foot-operated rheostats around that I'm sure could be modified to carry the right potentiometer. :-) It is a current-limiting device. On a normal TIG you set the max current on the panel, then the foot pedal varies the current between zero and that max setting. There is also a microswitch that turns the arc and gas on/off. Shouldnt be hard to fab something I will be at my friends house tonight, if I get a chance I will try out the welder and report results as compared to my fancy unit. I can also try diddling the dial on the front panel while welding to see if it functions the same as a foot pedal. I've welded aluminum with the MIG. Most 'impressive' was the hole blown in the side of our tiller's aluminum crankcase. But it doesn't come out pretty. I also welded up the pinholes in some of my Mom's favorite old heavy aluminum pots. Those were a mess, and took a lot of grinding. You need a TIG! ;)
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Wire feed welding setup is great, and there are a few good online tutorials, some with video, for learning it. For a rusty old mower deck, a flux core welder would work great ( the actual MIG welders with shielding gas will give cleaner welds on new or clean material, but for old rusty stuff, the the flux core can generally work better. I've got a gas setup, but I'll pop the flux core wire in when working on rusty old stuff or out in a high wind ) Of course, having it is half the job, need to remember to use it ( the deck on my riding mower gave out about a month ago, i've got some serious restructuring to do on that thing ) Yours sounds alot like mine. If you weld a few pieces of heavier strap across it to give it some structure, then weld a thin plate over that to keep the grass from building up, you'll be in good shape. --Robert Allan Streib wrote: Think this was hashed through recently, but since I was not really in the market I glossed over the thread. I have an old Wheel Horse lawn tractor. The mower deck hangs from the a lift mechanism under the tractor by a bracket that is bolted to the deck. The deck sheet metal must be slightly too thin, because over the years metal fatigue has caused the bolts to pull through the deck, taking a small section of the deck with them. The deck is otherwise sound, and the tractor is otherwise built like a tank and very reliable, so I'm thinking of trying to grind the fatigued area back to solid metal and weld in a patch. I've never done any welding, but I can foresee that having a welder could be very handy. Plus for the cost of a new deck for the mower I could probably come very close to buying a welder. So I am wondering what might be a good welder to start off with. My garage is already equipped with a 240 outlet. I've heard that TIG welders have more flexibility but are harder to learn. Would a wire-feed MIG unit be a good choice? How hard is it to learn from books/video? Allan
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
I've heard that TIG welders have more flexibility but are harder to learn. And more expensive. Would a wire-feed MIG unit be a good choice? How hard is it to learn from books/video? Their nickname is 'glue gun'. It's fairly easy to learn to use, at least for simple stuff. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I've heard that TIG welders have more flexibility but are harder to learn. And more expensive. Yeah, I was just discovering that! I had been assuming that an entry level TIG unit would be similar to a MIG. Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
When you look at Mig welders, checkout what it costs to add a spoolgun. You will need it if you ever want to do aluminum. Lincoln has models where adding one costs $200. Unfortunately, it costs more to add a spoolgun to my Miller than I paid for the base unit. *Anyone* can mig weld. -Dave Walton On 6/4/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Think this was hashed through recently, but since I was not really in the market I glossed over the thread. I have an old Wheel Horse lawn tractor. The mower deck hangs from the a lift mechanism under the tractor by a bracket that is bolted to the deck. The deck sheet metal must be slightly too thin, because over the years metal fatigue has caused the bolts to pull through the deck, taking a small section of the deck with them. The deck is otherwise sound, and the tractor is otherwise built like a tank and very reliable, so I'm thinking of trying to grind the fatigued area back to solid metal and weld in a patch. I've never done any welding, but I can foresee that having a welder could be very handy. Plus for the cost of a new deck for the mower I could probably come very close to buying a welder. So I am wondering what might be a good welder to start off with. My garage is already equipped with a 240 outlet. I've heard that TIG welders have more flexibility but are harder to learn. Would a wire-feed MIG unit be a good choice? How hard is it to learn from books/video? Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Yeah, I was just discovering that! I had been assuming that an entry level TIG unit would be similar to a MIG. I keep seeing this Harbor Freight TIG unit that pops up for sale at $200 every so often. I'm not sure, but I think it's just an inverter accessory for a regular (stick?) welder. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
The Harbor Freight TIG is probably the scratch-start DC only unit that my friend has, there is no foot pedal and no AC so you can not weld aluminum... Setting aside the super-cheap stuff for a moment, I have what I would consider an entry level TIG and it set me back $1800, but it has AC with wavebalance, adjustable weld paramaters, etc, etc. It will do up to 160 amps. The TIG is way cool, I can weld my own aluminum intercooler pipes, do fine repairs on exotic metals, etc. However there are a lot of times where I wish I had a MIG as well it is much faster and easier for the day to day stuff. If you dont ever anticipate doing odd projects in exotic metals *and* you dont want to spend a ton of time practicing (TIG is difficult to master) then just get a decent MIG. As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) -Zach --- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yeah, I was just discovering that! I had been assuming that an entry level TIG unit would be similar to a MIG. I keep seeing this Harbor Freight TIG unit that pops up for sale at $200 every so often. I'm not sure, but I think it's just an inverter accessory for a regular (stick?) welder. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
One advantage to MIG is depending on what you are welding, you can use regular flux'd wire turn off the gas. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zach Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 11:30 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again The Harbor Freight TIG is probably the scratch-start DC only unit that my friend has, there is no foot pedal and no AC so you can not weld aluminum... Setting aside the super-cheap stuff for a moment, I have what I would consider an entry level TIG and it set me back $1800, but it has AC with wavebalance, adjustable weld paramaters, etc, etc. It will do up to 160 amps. The TIG is way cool, I can weld my own aluminum intercooler pipes, do fine repairs on exotic metals, etc. However there are a lot of times where I wish I had a MIG as well it is much faster and easier for the day to day stuff. If you dont ever anticipate doing odd projects in exotic metals *and* you dont want to spend a ton of time practicing (TIG is difficult to master) then just get a decent MIG. As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) -Zach --- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yeah, I was just discovering that! I had been assuming that an entry level TIG unit would be similar to a MIG. I keep seeing this Harbor Freight TIG unit that pops up for sale at $200 every so often. I'm not sure, but I think it's just an inverter accessory for a regular (stick?) welder. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Which one will do stainless? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) needs head '83 300SD (246,645 mi) SOLD! '82 300CD (166 kmi) getting front end rebuild '82 300D (74 kmi) getting '85 donor engine-SOLD! '85 300D (280,176) parts car-sans engine Quoting Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED]: The Harbor Freight TIG is probably the scratch-start DC only unit that my friend has, there is no foot pedal and no AC so you can not weld aluminum... Setting aside the super-cheap stuff for a moment, I have what I would consider an entry level TIG and it set me back $1800, but it has AC with wavebalance, adjustable weld paramaters, etc, etc. It will do up to 160 amps. The TIG is way cool, I can weld my own aluminum intercooler pipes, do fine repairs on exotic metals, etc. However there are a lot of times where I wish I had a MIG as well it is much faster and easier for the day to day stuff. If you dont ever anticipate doing odd projects in exotic metals *and* you dont want to spend a ton of time practicing (TIG is difficult to master) then just get a decent MIG. As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) -Zach
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Any of them will do stainless. You can use trimix gas or flux core wire. I've not tried stainless flux core wire. Trimix works good. There are 3 different grades of stainless wire commonly available - 308, 309, and 316. The main difference (as I understand it) is the percentage of Chromium. You want to match it as best you can with what you are welding because the amount of heat expansion varies. You want the weld to expand with the metal or else it can crack over time. Mig welders use a spool of wire in the base unit and push it to the welding tip. They are quite picky with Aluminum because it is so soft - it tends to kink inside the machine. For that, you need a spoolgun that places a small spool of wire just behind the tip. You hold the whole assembly as you weld. If you use gas, check the price to refill the different cylinder sizes. Around here, no one rents the cylinders. You buy one from the supplier and exchange for full. You get cost effective around the 80 cu/ft size. Refilling a 20 costs me $21, a 40 costs $25, and an 80 costs me $29. Bigger than that and you pay based on gas volume. You save a lot on the refills with an 80. I also like the 80's because they come with a protective cover over the valve that screws onto the cylinder body. Good idea if you transport them much. -Dave Walton On 6/5/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Which one will do stainless? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) needs head '83 300SD (246,645 mi) SOLD! '82 300CD (166 kmi) getting front end rebuild '82 300D (74 kmi) getting '85 donor engine-SOLD! '85 300D (280,176) parts car-sans engine Quoting Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED]: The Harbor Freight TIG is probably the scratch-start DC only unit that my friend has, there is no foot pedal and no AC so you can not weld aluminum... Setting aside the super-cheap stuff for a moment, I have what I would consider an entry level TIG and it set me back $1800, but it has AC with wavebalance, adjustable weld paramaters, etc, etc. It will do up to 160 amps. The TIG is way cool, I can weld my own aluminum intercooler pipes, do fine repairs on exotic metals, etc. However there are a lot of times where I wish I had a MIG as well it is much faster and easier for the day to day stuff. If you dont ever anticipate doing odd projects in exotic metals *and* you dont want to spend a ton of time practicing (TIG is difficult to master) then just get a decent MIG. As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) -Zach ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
Not that I'm trying to spam but I stock 5, 10 20# CO2 cylinders as well as CO2 regulators. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of dave walton Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 12:38 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again Any of them will do stainless. You can use trimix gas or flux core wire. I've not tried stainless flux core wire. Trimix works good. There are 3 different grades of stainless wire commonly available - 308, 309, and 316. The main difference (as I understand it) is the percentage of Chromium. You want to match it as best you can with what you are welding because the amount of heat expansion varies. You want the weld to expand with the metal or else it can crack over time. Mig welders use a spool of wire in the base unit and push it to the welding tip. They are quite picky with Aluminum because it is so soft - it tends to kink inside the machine. For that, you need a spoolgun that places a small spool of wire just behind the tip. You hold the whole assembly as you weld. If you use gas, check the price to refill the different cylinder sizes. Around here, no one rents the cylinders. You buy one from the supplier and exchange for full. You get cost effective around the 80 cu/ft size. Refilling a 20 costs me $21, a 40 costs $25, and an 80 costs me $29. Bigger than that and you pay based on gas volume. You save a lot on the refills with an 80. I also like the 80's because they come with a protective cover over the valve that screws onto the cylinder body. Good idea if you transport them much. -Dave Walton On 6/5/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Which one will do stainless? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) needs head '83 300SD (246,645 mi) SOLD! '82 300CD (166 kmi) getting front end rebuild '82 300D (74 kmi) getting '85 donor engine-SOLD! '85 300D (280,176) parts car-sans engine Quoting Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED]: The Harbor Freight TIG is probably the scratch-start DC only unit that my friend has, there is no foot pedal and no AC so you can not weld aluminum... Setting aside the super-cheap stuff for a moment, I have what I would consider an entry level TIG and it set me back $1800, but it has AC with wavebalance, adjustable weld paramaters, etc, etc. It will do up to 160 amps. The TIG is way cool, I can weld my own aluminum intercooler pipes, do fine repairs on exotic metals, etc. However there are a lot of times where I wish I had a MIG as well it is much faster and easier for the day to day stuff. If you dont ever anticipate doing odd projects in exotic metals *and* you dont want to spend a ton of time practicing (TIG is difficult to master) then just get a decent MIG. As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) -Zach ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: welders, again
I'll back up what Zach said about the Lincoln SP135; it's a sweet setup. I love its ease of use and quality US-built construction. I think I paid ~$300, three years ago. On 6/5/07, Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As far as MIG welders go I would recommend the Lincoln SP135+ or whatever replaced it in the current lineup, key features are 20amp 110v supply and fully adjustable heat range. (an easy way to spot a cheap MIG is turn the heat knob, if it clicks into only a couple of positions then it is not infinately adjustable and not as flexible in use) Casey __ '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel '94 100CSQ Avant '90 90Q '89 Bluestar
