Re: Manfrotto/Bogen

2001-05-16 Thread David A. Mann

Bill D. Casselberry writes:

[Manfrotto 029]
   is this the one that takes the hex-plate quick release?
   ... known here in the US as the 3047?

 Yes.  The hex-plate is the same used by the 168 ball head.

 The only thing I don't like about my Manfrotto gear is the cork-lined quick-
release plates.  They get no grip on the camera.  They've switched to using 
rubber since I bought mine, and I can only hope it's better.

Cheers,


- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec)
http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets? -- Garfield
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Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a beginner

2001-05-16 Thread Rfsindg

Johannes,

The KX is a fine camera but I would rather use a SuperA/Super Program.

The KX is bigger, older ('75 vs '83), mechanical with mirror lock-up, and 
ruggedly built with a nice feature of being able to see the aperture in the 
viewfinder.  It was replaced by the more compact MX.

The SuperA is more compact, with an electronically controlled shutter and 
some automatic exposure capabilities.  The viewfinder is excellent for 
eyeglasses wearers as you can see the full image without having to check the 
corners.  And with an AF200T or AF280T flash, you can have true TTL flash 
metering for your photos.  (This was a feature that was way ahead of it's 
time!)  Furthermore, a full complement of lenses, winders, motor drives and 
other accessories are floating by on ebay anytime you want to acquire some.

For my taste, the K55/1.8 is appropriate for the KX, but a bit old and clunky 
compared to the M50/1.7.  I suspect coatings were improved on the M50/1.7 and 
there are some 8 years less for dust to accumulate in the M version.  Having 
shot with both, I'd say that dust may have been the most important 
consideration after size.

If you do go for the SuperA/Super Program, you should try to get an A series 
lens to take full advantage of the camera.  You will not be disappointed by 
the A50mm f1.7.

Regards,  Bob S.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I'm about to buy my first camera and I'm having a bit of trouble
 deciding between these two cameras.. The price of them is about the
 same, the SuperA's exterior being in a much better condition. I'd love
 to hear some comment's from you people. Also  I'd like ot hear if you
 think there is some other body in this price range I should check out.
 
 Also I'd like to know if there's a lot of difference between the
 image/mechanical quality of SMC-M 50/1.7 and SMC-M 55/1.8.. 
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Re: Manfrotto/Bogen

2001-05-16 Thread Shel Belinkoff

David A. Mann wrote:

  The only thing I don't like about my Manfrotto 
 gear is the cork-lined quick-release plates.  
 They get no grip on the camera.  They've switched 
 to using rubber since I bought mine, and I can only 
 hope it's better.

I saw the new rubber covered plates at a local camera shop.  I
happened to have one of the cork covered plates with me.  A fellow
was trying out t'pod heads to use with his telescope, so we compared
the rubber covered plates with the cork covered ones.  The rubber
seemed to offer more grip.  

However, some time ago there was a thread here about vibration, and
I believe it was suggested that rubber, while affording more grip in
this case, may also allow for greater vibration effects.

IAC, I'm definitely getting a rubber covered quick release plate at
some point as I do believe it offers enough advantages in some
situations that it's a worthwhile expenditure.

FWIW, the plate in question was for the Manfrotto 410 geared head.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Grain is the brushstroke of photography. - Man Ray
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Re: Pic of The week. What do you think?

2001-05-16 Thread Douglas E Harmon


From: Todd Stanley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

: This is my kind of picture - I really like the visual irony of the sign.

Mine too.

: The DOF for a picture like this is complicated, as you want the sign to
: stand out, but at the same time want the building to be recognizable.  I
: would of blurred the background more, judging by the scan.  But at the
same
: time it would probably look just fine as a 8x10 print, as percieved DOF
: does have to do with enlargement size.

I'm going to take the neg to my local printer to have an 8x10 made to judge
the resolution, we'll see about the DOF.

: As for the cars/lights, I don't see them as distracting to the photo.
What
: is distracting to me is that thing in focus on the left side (tree?), and
: that white bar (flare?).  But with stuff like that sometimes there just
: isn't much you can do.  Maybe moving to the right a little, to get some
: space between the sideways sign and the building, then simply cropping out
: the tree/sideways sign might work - assuming you can move to the right, of
: course.  Also, maybe include more of the street on the bottom right to
help
: lead the viewer's eye from the sign to the building.

The white light seems to be another Traffic signal, that is a tree. If I had
an enlarger I could dodge out the light, and maybe the tree. Other comments
were made to crop left and I am going to hit the streets with more lenses
when I get the chance. Hopefully when it rains again, I like the effect of
thw wet streets.

l8r,
Douglas E Harmon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://personal.mia.bellsouth.net/~genius91/






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Re: Pic of The week. What do you think?

2001-05-16 Thread Douglas E Harmon


From: Todd Stanley [EMAIL PROTECTED]


:
: The reason why the cars seem still is because they are moving towards the
: camera.  If the were moving to the left or right there'd be a lot more
: blur.  Personally I would leave the cars alone, they aren't the subject.
: And if you blur the background more they may not be recognizable as cars,
: their headlights just a couple of distracting streaks along the bottom.
: But if you want to expirement with slower shutter speeds, an easy way to
: lose a few stops would be to put a polarizer on the lens.  I wouldn't try
a
: red filter, as the red on white sign would not show up well, but on the
: other hand a green filter should raise the contrast on the sign, maxing it
: black on white instead of dark grey on white.  Just a thought.

I was thinking of using an ND filter or slower film, but the thought of
using the usual BW filters is not one I had for night time use.

l8r,
Douglas E Harmon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://personal.mia.bellsouth.net/~genius91/



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Re: Pictures of a TaeKwonDo demo

2001-05-16 Thread Leon Altoff

On Tue, 15 May 2001 13:41:39 -0700, B. K. Lane Sr. wrote:

I finally got some pictures up that I took a couple of weekends ago.
When I got the film back and looked at the pictures I could have kicked
myself in the head. I used 400 ISO instead of using 800 and most of the
pictures turned out blurry. 

http://Beckling.tripod.com/demo.htm

Any helpful comments or hints are sure appreciated.


Rebecca

I would have suggested 1600 ISO film rather than 400 or 800.  Or
possibly a faster lens - a 50 mm f1.4 would give you 3 or 4 stops over
the lens you used.  Though the suggestion of movement of the person
being kicked in the picture lar3.jpg looks good.  One stop higher in
speed would probably have stopped the kicker and still had the kickee
moving.

Your timing for the shots appear to be excellent, as is your framing.  

I'm not into sport as a rule but I can appreciate the pictures.
 Leon

http://www.bluering.org.au
http://www.bluering.org.au/leon


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Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

On Tue, 15 May 2001, tom wrote:

 
 Huh? You get 37 frames per long roll. I get 38 rarely, every once in a
 while 36.

Hi Tom!
I have never got 38 exposures (you are quite fortunate from that
sense). The maximum that I got is 37 quite often
and sometimes 36 but it surprised me a lot when I got 35.

 
 That's odd. I almost always get 37.
 
 Lets say your film was labeled 36, but was in fact 35. What would the
 EOS do? Would it assume there's an extra frame there and let you take a
 pic on the leader? Even if it could sense the leader was leaving the
 spool, you'd be awfully close to trying to take a picture on the part of
 the film that hangs out of the can.

As far as I think EOS allows you to take the shot as far as there is a
tension along the film plane. The moment the tension goes off, it rewinds
the small remaining portion inside the film cartridge.

Cheers,
Ayash Kanto.

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Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

On Tue, 15 May 2001, Bruce Dayton wrote:

 I have mixed feelings about the Canon system.  Certainly for those prone to
 open the back instead of wind the film back, it can be useful.  I have only
 opened the back accidentally once on my wife's ZX-10 because she told me
 that the film needed changing.  I mistakenly thought that she had shot the
 last frame and it had wound back.  I quickly closed the back and only lost
 about 3 frames.

Once, I also opened the back of my MZ-M by accident (I still don't know
why I opened the back door) and quickly closed it when I realized that a
film is sitting inside. As a result, I lost 2 frames. From then onwards, I
never committed the mistake of opening the back cover with the film
inside. It was a good lesson for me.

Cheers,
Ayash Kanto.

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Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

On Tue, 15 May 2001, Bill D. Casselberry wrote:

   :^)  just another example of over automation and too much
   technical brouhaha. I can load my Spotmatics in a dark room
   and start shooting as soon as the tongue of the film is once
   around the take-up spool! Even back in the days of the Super
   Program, dark forces were at work laying the foundations for
   this dilemma currently under discussion by deactivating the
   meter until a certain excess ammount of film had been wound on.
 
   disclaimer: due to another over mechanization, this doesn't
   work well if color film is processed in a color printing machine.
   Best to use Plus-X, Tri-X or Verichrome Pan and soup it yerself
   in a small daylight tank.
 
   m42 -( Forwrd into the Past! )- Bill
 
 -
 Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast
 
 http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 -


Hi!

Your reply has actually inspired me to purchase a mechanical manual focus
SLR body because I can employ your technique of loading the film only with
such bodies.

Many thanks.
With regards,
Ayash Kanto.

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Re: Vs: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

On Tue, 15 May 2001, Raimo Korhonen wrote:

 I get always 37 shots onto 36 exposure roll with my MZ-5n. Always. With Leica I get 
38 but I do not think it is cost-effective.
 All the best!
 Raimo
 Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen
 

Thanks for the wishes Raimo. 

I am just inquisitive about Leica. Is it autoloading or manual loading?
What is the model name?

Cheers,
Ayash Kanto.

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Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

On Tue, 15 May 2001, dick graham wrote:

 Of course one could use AGFA's HDC + which gives you 3 free exposures on a 
 24 exposure roll., that means you get 27 exposures for the price of 
 24.  One of our local supermarkets sells AGFA HDC+ 100 for $1.99 USD.
 
 DG

Sorry, I could not get your point. Is it written on the package of the
film that the user will definitely get 3 free exposures or the user is
supposed to get 3 exposures free of cost but he/she may not be sure about
it?

- Ayash Kanto.


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Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

On Tue, 15 May 2001, aimcompute wrote:

 They were mine.
 
 
 Paul wrote:
 
 One can only imagine what
  priceless photos the world has lost because a camera back was prematurely
  opened.
 

I am very sorry for that. Did you photographed it again?
Just inquisitive.

Cheers,
Ayash Kanto.

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Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

On Tue, 15 May 2001, Bill D. Casselberry wrote:

  Bruce wrote:
  
  My friend has a Canon Rebel and one downside to the system is that all the
  frames are numbered backwards from a chronology point of view.  The
  mini-labs number your prints and these number will be in the opposite order
  of how you actually took them.
 
   See!   Technology Run Amok! 
  (trademark, Canon Corp)
 
   ... it's insidious, I tell you!  
   ... and with such collusion between camera  processing equipment
   manufacturers - a conspiracy, as well!  
 
   !8^D
 

I know that you have disliking for the technologically advanced SLRs. To
be precise, I really want to have one mechanical manual focus SLR
body. Do you know why? I can not do multiple exposure experiments with my
MZ-M. This makes me feel handicapped.

With regards,
Ayash Kanto.

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RE: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee


Hi Patrick! 


On Tue, 15 May 2001, Patrick White wrote:

   My PZ-1p, 37, occasionally 38.  Wife's Canon, always 36 (they seem to have
 designed the film transport to do that on purpose).  

I am surprised.

 My manual load cameras,
 36-37 full frames and some partials.
   I can see the advantage of Canon's solution, and would prefer it as it
 saves the pictuers I've already taken.  However, I solved the problem by
 learning how to check for film in the cameras and training myself to always
 check before opening.  Haven't had the problem in years.
   However, if that is such a problem, then why hasn't some company designed
 an interlock to prevent the camera back from being opened when there is film
 in it?
 
 I wonder why PENTAX has not considered this part of camera design.
 
   Perhaps patent infringement?
 
 Recently, I was using KODAK MAX 400 (the old package), and I got 35
 exposures only though it is expected to allow atleast 36 exposures. It
 happened twice with me.
 
   Sounds like you pulled out too much film while loading.  I used to do that
 sometimes while I was learning to use my K-1000 or having a fit loading it.

Perhaps you are right. Let me tell you something. I don't like this
autoadvance to frame 1 feature. It consumes a lot of unexposed film but
I do like and appreciate the successive auto advance feature after each
shot, auto rewind at the end of the role and countinous mode shooting.

Cheers,
Ayash Kanto.



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Re: Dull list

2001-05-16 Thread Alin Flaider


   Ah, but obviously you know nothing of the secret passwords. Here's
   one: press DOF preview, select rightmost focus sensor, then
   leftmost, then center one and rotate the body vertically. The
   camera will enter into critique mode and the LCD will flash a mark
   for your last picture taken. You can improve from here by varying
   focal length, framing, focus distance and keep an eye on the LCD
   until you see OK. If angry with camera's judgement you can always
   cancel by shaking it. The fine people from C* thought of everything.
   
   Now, back in the sand:
   Servus, Alin

Andy wrote:

AF So we've just bought my wife a Canon EOS 30 (as she wisely chose to buy a
AF different brand to me to prevent arguments over who used what lens).

AF I think the EOS 30 is a brilliant camera.

AF Canon have a depth of field mode, where you focus on the near and then far
AF subjects, and the camera sets the aperture required to give you the depth of
AF field - and it really works.

AF I had no idea that the 'competition' had these sorts of features. I reckon
AF that I've been sticking my head too deep in the sand.


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Re: Hi from Canada

2001-05-16 Thread Frank Theriault

Loonie-burg?!?  My mother lives in Mahone Bay.  I can't answer your
question, but I just thought I'd say hi.

Oh yeah, you should turn off your html.

regards from Toronto,
frank

David M. Afford wrote:

 Hi everyone. I'm new at this. Though I've been on the Net for three
 years now I've not been on any discussion forums. Funny I should pick
 this one as I have just rekindled an interest in photography. Dusted
 off my old Pentax S1a, said Man this is old! (but good) I need to
 get me a newer version of the Pentax. I ended up with an ME Super and
 a 50mm lens along with an 80-200mm tele. Looks and works O.K.Being the
 inquisitive type and kind of tech minded I've got some other ME Supers
 on the way for parts or repair. Anyone out there got any pointers
 (from experience) as to how I should go about repairs to these older
 but remarkable cameras?Dave AffordLunenburg N.S. Canada :~)

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Re: Drug Dealer Lens

2001-05-16 Thread Jim Brooks

Glenn
Just a tip that you probably know already:

Remove the 1A filter (if you have one fitted), as the flat glass surface can
reflect light sources such as streetlight, directly towards your subject!!!
The curved front element reduces this risk dramatically.

Good luck.
Jim Brooks



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Re: Pictures of a TaeKwonDo demo

2001-05-16 Thread dave o'brien

A scroll of mail from B. K. Lane Sr. [EMAIL PROTECTED] on Tue,
15 May 2001 13:41:39 -0700
Read it? y
I finally got some pictures up that I took a couple of weekends ago.
When I got the film back and looked at the pictures I could have kicked
myself in the head. I used 400 ISO instead of using 800 and most of the
pictures turned out blurry. 

http://Beckling.tripod.com/demo.htm

ITA style, huh?  I think that was my style, but I was doing it before
the split.

The pics are good, but you need either faster film or a faster lens.
Get a 50/1.4 or 1.7 or a 35/2 (probably better) and you'll be amazed
at the sharpness you can pick up.

Your composition is excellent for these - you're filling the frame
with action which is the way to go.

The jumping back side kick (i've forgotten all my korean) pics are
superb: you've got the moment of contact.  A martial arts mag will
have a 'just breaking the board' shot, but I bet they chuck one roll
of film through an Eos-1 at 10-fps just for that.

dave
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Re: Drug Dealer Lens

2001-05-16 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

With a short 500mm mirror you'll be
able to hide deeper inside the window,
thus protecting your life.

Collin

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


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Re: Drug Dealer Lens?

2001-05-16 Thread Philippe Trottier

Doing the right thing... (my onw view)

As long as you are isolated from the criminal OK. Explain the police
officers what you are, I am a photographer
and I steped on these peoples... show photos and other documents. AND KEEP
LOW PROFILE. MOVE !
Don't endanger yourself or your close. THINK !

Local police guy came to me , shook my hand just for bringing to their
attention some details. I hope the guy is now
in jail.
-When there is an accident I stop.
-When there is something that can endanger someone I do the best I can.

If what you see is illegal or you beleive it is illegal then it is your
responsibility to do something. I would not like to see
 what kind of trouble you would have keeping these evidences from the law
enforcement. One stupid example
-AAH these dumb kids are trading dope...
Week after readin in the newspaper
-young guy/girl 12 - 20 die overdose / stabed to death

lifting a flag will make a difference, letting the right people to their job
will bring the best of the whole situation.

Philippe



 Glenn,

 Just out of curiosity, where do you live?

 Paul
 - Original Message -
 From: Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 10:57 AM
 Subject: Re: Drug Dealer Lens?


  I'm not familiar with either lens, but for my money, I'd definitely go
 with
  the 400. I can't imagine softness out weighing the inreased
magnification.
  The choice of film would IMHO have more of an effect on softness. After
  you've got the image you might be suprised what they can reveal in
  Photoshop.
  Ken Waller
  - Original Message -
  From: D. Glenn Arthur Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 7:46 PM
  Subject: Drug Dealer Lens?
 
 
   So I'm shooting from a third floor window, across a wide (two
   travel lanes and two parking lanes) street with sidewalks,
   using TMZ at 6400.  Either the 400mm/6.3 preset (Spiratone) or
   the 200mm/4 (Pentax SMC) is going to draw attention if I'm
   actually _in_ the window, so I'm shooting from well back in
   the room.
  
   The question is:  Am I better off going with the longer but softer
   400mm to fill more of the frame, or taking my chances with grain on
   a smaller image using the sharper (and easier to hold) 200mm?  The
   sun hasn't quite set yet, so I can get hand-holding speeds (1/1000
   actually, as of fifteen minutes ago, probably 1/500 now) with either
   lens at the moment.
  
   In the viewfinder, using the 400mm, I can clearly see the money
   changing hands, but it's not sharp enough to make out denominations.
  
   (Yes, I have a tripod.  If I find a good angle where I can use
   it, I may see whether anything interesting is happening late
   tonight when I get home from rehearsal.  And yes, I plan to ask
   the vice squad whether they're interested in the film.)
  
   -- Glenn
  
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viewfinder diopter for MX

2001-05-16 Thread Frank Wajer

Hi all,

it is still not clear to me what diopter I need for my Pentax MX.
My glasses are -1.75 and -2.00.

bye,

Frank

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Re: Photos of the Weekend :)

2001-05-16 Thread Philippe Trottier

This weekend we have a ratan/buffer/steel party, I would do the photos
but...
I am on the field fighting, the LX and MX are tought but would not survive
a blow =)

Thank you for the previous year album.

Philippe

 Philippe wrote:

  This look like our SCA events (Society of Creative Anachronism)
  There is a lot of photography I do for them.

 Yes, several of the merchant vendors are involved in SCA. This
 is but our 2nd year, and even so things seemed about half again
 as vibrant as last year's with more booths and also more attendees.

 some shots from last year's are at:
   http://www.coastarts.org/Glastonbury/glastonbury.html



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Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Artur Ledóchowski

- Original Message -
From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Autoloaded to frame 1



 Hi all!

 In all the MZ/ZX series cameras that PENTAX has manufactured, the
 autoloading facility advances the film to frame1 as soon as the camera
 back is closed. There are two disadvantages with this system.

 1. You loose two to three frames. I have always noticed that.

Although most of the film rolls are long enough to get 1-3 frames more than
the number written on the box, I never expose them. When I load a film that
is 36 frames long, I always force rewinding it after the 36th frame is
exposed. Although my MZ-7 allows me to get more (usually 1 frame more - 13,
25 or 37), the real problem is with labs. I lost many extra-frames in
processing, so I decided not to exploit any film roll to the last. Those 1
or 2 frames per film are no real profit, in my opinion, and the risk of
losing them by a lab is too big to make using this bonus any sense.


 2. If by accident the camera back is opened, the exposed part of the film
gets spoiled completely.

I've never faced this problem so far, fortunately. Generally, I'm very
cautious about it and since my camera shows the number of the frame of a
film loaded at the moment even if it is turned off, I always know when not
to open the body.

 A month back, Canon EOS 300 came in my hand and I noticed that it advanced
 the film to the last frame with the closure of camera back. Thus you
 always sqeeze atleast two to three more shots. Secondly, if the camera
 back is opened by accident, the exposed part goes inside the film
 cartridge and it
 is the unexposed part which gets spoiled. So, if you have taken a few
 shots
 with lot of hardwork and thinking, it remains safe inside the cartridge.
 For a serious photographer it is an advantage.

A nice idea - I like it


 I wonder why PENTAX has not considered this part of camera design.


No idea:)

 Recently, I was using KODAK MAX 400 (the old package), and I got 35
 exposures only though it is expected to allow atleast 36 exposures. It
 happened twice with me.

It has never happened with me. I'd rather think this could have been the
problem with the given package itself, not the camera.
Regards
Artur


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Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Artur Ledóchowski

- Original Message -
From: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Autoloaded to frame 1

 My friend has a Canon Rebel and one downside to the system is that all the
 frames are numbered backwards from a chronology point of view.  The
 mini-labs number your prints and these number will be in the opposite
order
 of how you actually took them.

Well, this wouldn't be any particular problem, I think:) I'd really go for
it if I knew that my exposed frames were safe in the cartridge:) The other
technical solution would be another, built-in cartridge, installed in the
place where the film is rolled on. This would, however, make loading films
much more difficult.
Regards
Artur

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Re: viewfinder diopter for MX

2001-05-16 Thread Jan van Wijk

On Wed, 16 May 2001 14:40:37 +0200, Frank Wajer wrote:


it is still not clear to me what diopter I need for my Pentax MX.
My glasses are -1.75 and -2.00.

You need the SMC correction lens adapter-M in strength   - 2

I have two in -5 so I can't help you ...

Regards, JvW

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Re: More Pentax spotting

2001-05-16 Thread Peter Alling

It might have been.  The way movies are made the scene could have been shot 
at different times then stitched together.  There are lots of times that 
the continuity is a film is screwed up this way, (in fact it's fun to look 
for them).

At 04:41 PM 5/15/2001 -0700, you wrote:
Aaron Reynolds wrote:


Great!!! A fellow Beatles fan on the list. I have to plug in the old A Hard
Day's Night tape into the VCR tonight just for the nostalgia.

Don't forget to check what camera Ringo has.  I'm going to have a second
look at Help! tonight (I have it on LaserDisc but not A Hard Day's
Night) out of optimism that I might have been wrong about what cameras
they have in the Bahamas sequence.

I checked but it's hard to tell what brand of camera it might have been.
Funny thing though is at a certain angle, when he was actually taking some 
snapshots with it, it kinda even looked liked a rangefinder.

Oh well

Paulo Ernest



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IR and Pentax

2001-05-16 Thread tom

Some guy on the IR list asked if you could use a ZX-5's autofocus
through a Hoya R72 filter, which is opaque, as far as I know. 

I thought the question ridiculous, but decided to see what would happen.
I took a Lee 87, which *is* opaque, held it in front of the zx-5n with
the 20-35/4. 

It locked focus, and pretty quick too.

Thinking maybe the AF was goofy, I tried AF'ing with the lens cap on.
Completely different behavior..it was actually focusing with IR light.

I know cameras can use an IR beam for focus assist, but I didn't think
they had this much sensitivity. The IR beam on the AF500FTZ isn't
totally IR, you can actually see some red, plus you're rarely doing it
in total darkness.

You learn something new everyday...

tv
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Re: Pictures of a TaeKwonDo demo

2001-05-16 Thread Artur Ledóchowski

- Original Message -
From: B. K. Lane Sr. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Pictures of a TaeKwonDo demo


 I finally got some pictures up that I took a couple of weekends ago.
 When I got the film back and looked at the pictures I could have kicked
 myself in the head.

Well, this could be an Apcha Olligi or perhaps some Nopunde Bituro Chagi:)))

 I used 400 ISO instead of using 800 and most of the
 pictures turned out blurry.

A little blur adds life to the scene, therefore it's not always good to
avoid it when the subject is very dynamic. You should definitely get that 50
mm f/1,4 or 1,7 lens. It would help you isolate the subject from the
background on the wider apertures (it would move the background from the
DOF) - on some of the pics the main subject cannot be easily distinguished
from the crowd and the background draws a bit too much attention:) The other
thing is that the pics appear a bit underexposed but this can be caused by
the scanner...
Perhaps some flash light would have helped...(I mean some strong, external
flash, not the built-in one:))
A pretty good timing in taking the shots:) I especially like two jumping
side kicks (Dwimyo Yop Chagi) - the first one - solo, and the second one -
with braking the wooden board (Kyokpa).
Has ITA anything in common with the ITF? I train ITF taekwondo in Poland,
although currently have a long pause, because of a serious ankle injury...
Regards
Artur

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Re: IR and Pentax

2001-05-16 Thread Rob Studdert

On 16 May 2001, at 9:26, tom wrote:

 I know cameras can use an IR beam for focus assist, but I didn't think
 they had this much sensitivity. The IR beam on the AF500FTZ isn't
 totally IR, you can actually see some red, plus you're rarely doing it
 in total darkness.
 
 You learn something new everyday...

Hi Tom,

To perpetuate the learning I have new question: does the focus distance on 
the lens scale differ when focussing with then without the IR filter in place?

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
Fax +61-2-9554-9259
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: Drug Dealer Lens -- OT

2001-05-16 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

Hi Glenn,

Haven't seen this angle mentioned yet, but are you sure the local cops
aren't on the take?  I ask this seriously, as this was a problem at one time
with a very small number of cops in Buffalo, and I think it's generally a
problem wherever you go.  Not to malign cops in general (or Baltimore or
Buffalo cops in particular), but this kind of stuff does happen in cities
big and small.  Maybe you'd be better off anonymously sharing your negatives
with your State Police instead of the locals.  I'm extremely jaded, I don't
have a tremendous trust of municipal police forces, and I've come of the
opinion that the only effective way to keep the drug-pushing scum out of the
neighborhood is if they're in constant fear of taking a few well-placed
rifle rounds from one (or preferably more) of the pissed off neighborhood
residents.  Doesn't get rid of the problem, but it at least moves it out of
the neighborhood.  Bob and Shel have the right idea, although I'm personally
partial to .45 over 9mm.  But I'd much rather be at riflescope distance than
pistol sight distance

If you have access to an attic or other concealed and secure location, you
may wish to consider installing an inexpensive ( $100) video surveillance
camera affixed to a cheap camera lens.  I've got a setup like this with a
135-mm lens -- for astronomical rather than forensic applications -- and I
can get a 4.5-diameter Moon on my 19 television.  You can record the video
signal to tape and run the thing 24 hours a day unattended, or perhaps put
the thing on a timer to record at peak hours.  Much safer than sitting in
the dark behind a giant telephoto with the curtains open, I think.

Good luck, and keep your head down.

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY

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Re: IR and Pentax

2001-05-16 Thread tom

Rob Studdert wrote:
 
 On 16 May 2001, at 9:26, tom wrote:
 
  I know cameras can use an IR beam for focus assist, but I didn't think
  they had this much sensitivity. The IR beam on the AF500FTZ isn't
  totally IR, you can actually see some red, plus you're rarely doing it
  in total darkness.
 
  You learn something new everyday...
 
 Hi Tom,
 
 To perpetuate the learning I have new question: does the focus distance on
 the lens scale differ when focussing with then without the IR filter in place?

Well, crap, now I have to get all methodical. Luckily I work from home,
so I can do that

I just stuck the zx-5n on a tripod, and this time used the 85/1.4. I
pointed the lens at a vertical line in a window, manually focused at
infinity, turned on AF, and let it do it's thing. Then I tried it with
the filter. It locked on, and shifted it *more* then what the IR mark
would suggest. Almost twice as much. 

I didn't see very much difference in the amount of time it took to lock
on.

Next time I have some HIE in the camera I'll test to see how accurate it
is...

tv
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PC Sync via hotshoe adapter

2001-05-16 Thread Michael Nosal

I'm taking a class and we're using a variety of studio strobes. I'm using my
Pentax ZX-7, which doesn't have a PC sync socket. I purchased a hotshoe
adapter from Hama, which worked fine the past two weeks, but yesterday, I
couldn't get the studio strobes to fire. Others in the class had no problems
with the same setup.

I tried swapping sync cords, tried a different hotshoe adapter, tried
reversing the polarity on the sync cord (A PC to household cord), tried
reversing the hotshoe adapter, turned the camera off and on again lots of
times. Nothing. I can't think of anything that I did differently yesterday
compared to the last two weeks.

Just to check my hotshoe wasn't fried, I plugged in my TTL flash cable to my
Sigma 430 flash and that worked just fine. 

So what's going on here? 

Michael Nosal
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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MZ-S availability

2001-05-16 Thread tom

Adorama's site says it was available 5/1.

Anyone tried to buy one?

tv
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Re: MZ-S availability

2001-05-16 Thread John Francis

tom wrote:
 
 Adorama's site says it was available 5/1.
 
 Anyone tried to buy one?

The concensus was that the 05/01 release date meant May 2001.

The latest information suggest that the release day will be May 26th;
that's apparently what the Pentax Japan site says for their date.

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Re: Manfrotto/Bogen 3-way head Junior Magnesium

2001-05-16 Thread Jörgen Blomgren

Hi Kenneth,

Kenneth Waller skrev:
 
[SNIP]
 May I suggest you look at the Bogen 3275 Mini-gear head. It is a
 great
 head when very precise adjustments have to be made, as in macro
 photography.
 It has 3 axis movement all controlled by 3 knobs, each knob
  has a very
 fine adjustment controlled by rotation of the appropriate small
 diameter
 knob and also a coarser adjustment by over riding the fine
 adjustment, using
 the dial portion of the knob and simply moving the head by hand
 in the in
 the axis desired. I find it the only head I use for macro work. It's a
 bummer to use for anything where constant repositioning is required.
 Ken Waller
 

Sorry if I have been pressing a bit to much at the macro side,
I am not (yet ?) into macro work, I only want to test it because
it seems to be quite interesting. In fact, the only lens I have
that can be called a macro, is the 28-105 (powerzoom). So my
intention is to get a head that can be used for macro as well
as general use. Even so, I do not want something that is so bad
at macro that I get scared away. I hope you understand what
I am looking for in that case.

But I am grateful for your info, if I like macro-photography,
I will not have to bother the list about which head to buy !

Best regards,
--
J.B  Joergen Blomgren  e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
   home:   user.tninet.se/~soy123d   __
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|  but it has temporarily escaped the cronicler's mind.  |  \ \ \/ / /
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Re: Manfrotto/Bogen 3-way head Junior Magnesium

2001-05-16 Thread Jörgen Blomgren

Hi Rob,

Rob Studdert skrev:
 
 On 13 May 2001, at 12:39, Jörgen Blomgren wrote:
 
  Please, tell me all your opinions of this head, I am choosing
  between this (460MG/3437), the basic 3-way head (141RC/3030)
  and the Proball basic (308RC/3413QR) as the head for my first
  tripod (probably the 055PRO).
 
 Hi Jörgen,
 
 I know I am late to the thread and that you have had a lot on
 interesting
 replies however I will give you my take on the above.
 

Every advice is very welcome, even if sort of makes it harder for
me to decide in the short run.

 The 460MG has good and bad points,
[SNIP] some good explantion pro/con

Exactly what I like to hear, different sides from different persons.

 The basic three way head is OK but I prefer the 029
[SNIP] more good pro/con points

 The 308 is a great little compact ball head
[SNIP] even more pro/con points

 If you get this head initially you will have a bit of
 time to consider
 how you use the new tripod and what other heads might be appropriate
 for
 how you tend to use it.

I think that will be the case, I will go for one of the cheaper
heads to get some time to get a feeling for what I like/dislike,
and then further on, perhaps buy something better.

 Good luck, you can't go far wrong with Manfrotto :-)
 

Good to hear !

 Cheers,
 
 Rob Studdert
[SNIP]

Thanks for your time and friendly advice.

Best regards,
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Re: Manfrotto/Bogen 3-way head Junior Magnesium

2001-05-16 Thread Jörgen Blomgren

Hi Chris,

Chris Brogden skrev:
 
[SNIP]
 
 You can use it both ways, but if you use it as a ballhead, then you
 have
 to loosen and tighten two knobs instead of one, and you only get
 movement
 in two planes, not three.  There are more expensive ballheads that
 let  you
 lock motion in individual planes, but I think that's out of
 your budget,
 IIRC.
 

OK, that is really worth considering, and yes, you are right
about my budget. Even if without the budget restraints I will
not spend that much, before knowing that I really want that
kind of equipment.

  Regarding ballheads, people here on the list have said that it is
 not
  good for macro photography, and as that is one thing I would like to
  test, I hesitate a bit to get one.
 
 My opinion?  Try them both.  When it comes to tripods and heads,
 nothing
 beats using them in the field to find out your preferences.

I believe you are right here, but I can not afford both at this
time, so I guess I will buy one of the cheaper heads to get
some experience.

  I did a lot
 of research before buying my 141RC (3-way head), but after a
 few weeks of
 using it I found that my shooting style was better suited by a
 ballhead.  The 141RC sounded good in theory, but I personally found it
 too
 much hassle to move it in multiple planes simultaneously.
 

I have heard almost exactly the same points from others,
but in general about 3-way heads.

 chris
 
  | There was a point to this story,   | \  / / /
  |  but it has temporarily escaped the cronicler's mind.  |  \ \ \/ / /
 
 Isn't that chronicler's?
 :)
 

Hmmpf, right, I will have to correct that :-(


Thanks for your friendly advice, you are very helpful.

Best regards,
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   home:   user.tninet.se/~soy123d   __
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Re: Manfrotto/Bogen 3-way head Junior Magnesium

2001-05-16 Thread Jörgen Blomgren

Hi Ernest,

Ernest Alejandria skrev:
 
 Joergen Blomgren wrote:
 
[SNIP]
 
   Can you free the axis just enough so the camera is moveable,
   but does not fall ?
 
 Yes. Once the camera is lock into head mount via the removable plate,
 it is
 securely lock and would not fall off the head regardless of what you
 may be
 doing with the control knobs.
 

Good to know, but what I meant, was if there is enough friction
in the axis, so the camera stays in position until you move it
yourself ? In a way, I think the question is answered in your
other answer, that the knobs are for precision rather than speed.
So unless I am far away here, do not bother to answer again.

[SNIP]
 Don't worry about the numerous questions. I'm of a similar vein when
 I'm
 contemplating a purchase. I do a lot of research and meticulous
 comparison
 shopping. And I asked a lot of questions. And that's the area that
 the list
 is really most helpful as I'm sure you realize by the number of
 responses
 you're getting from your inquiry. So I'm sure that by the time you
 decide on
 a model, you'd be a very well informed buyer.
 

Thanks, that is reassuring to know, especially that I am not the
only person that is so careful when shopping something. In swedish
this would, a bit tongue-in-cheek, be called velig !

 Good luck to you and happy hunting.
 
 Kind Regards
 
 Paulo Ernest
 

Again, thanks for your good advice, it has been very helpful.

Best regards,
--
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   home:   user.tninet.se/~soy123d   __
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Re: PC Sync via hotshoe adapter

2001-05-16 Thread Michael Nosal

Matjaz,
I'll bet you're right. Hmmmf. I'll give it a try. 

Thanks,
Mike 

At 07:09 PM 5/16/01 +0200, you wrote:
But Michael,
MZ-7's sync speed is at 1/100 and slower, not at 1/125. Mybe that's 
it.

Matjaz
 
 Sorry, should have mentioned this was all in manual mode. f8 @ 1/125. 
 
 Mike Nosal
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 

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Re: digital cameras

2001-05-16 Thread Jaume Lahuerta


--- tom [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Imagine the technology in 10 to 20 yearssensors
 that give huge
 resolution at ridiculously low light levels.
 Grainless photos in light
 you can barely see to focus in
 
 Any comments?

I am sure about that.
My only wish is to have the option to make the light
reach that wonderful sensors through Pentax lenses :-)
(translation: a competitive Pentax digital SLR body)

Jaume

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Re: New Kodak MAX 400 film?

2001-05-16 Thread Alan Chan

Well,  I haven't tried it yet ... but I did see a new package of Kodak Max
400 that claimed 25% better pictures ... or something to that effect.  I'd
be really interested to know how Kodak quantifies that.

By introducing another new box? :p It's not the first time Kodak did things 
like this, and won't be the last I believe.

regards,
Alan Chan

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Re: digital cameras

2001-05-16 Thread Michael Nosal

Imagine the technology in 10 to 20 yearssensors that give huge
resolution at ridiculously low light levels. Grainless photos in light
you can barely see to focus in

I'd expect this in 3-4 years. I also expect digital cameras to do 30 frames
per second at full 2-3 megapixel resolution within this time. Not cheaply,
or for more than a few seconds at a time, but doable.


Any comments?

Sarnoff Corp. just announced a sensor that can do 17 stops of dynamic range.
See:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0105/01051003blincdigitalcamera.asp

--Mike Nosal
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


tv

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Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a beginner

2001-05-16 Thread Alan Chan

I would recommend Super A/Program because they are generally in better 
condition and more common.

regards,
Alan Chan

I'm about to buy my first camera and I'm having a bit of trouble
deciding between these two cameras.. The price of them is about the
same, the SuperA's exterior being in a much better condition. I'd love
to hear some comment's from you people. Also  I'd like ot hear if you
think there is some other body in this price range I should check out.

Also I'd like to know if there's a lot of difference between the
image/mechanical quality of SMC-M 50/1.7 and SMC-M 55/1.8..

_
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

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HELP!!!! Cheapo Lens Needed

2001-05-16 Thread Albano_Garcia


Hi. I've bought a Super Program for a friend, who wants to start in this great
world of photography. The problem is the body comes alone, without lens. I made
some research here, but no one store have or want to sell a 50 f 2. (or 1.7)
So, I need somebody to sell me a 50mm f2 original or third party (maybe Ricoh,
Sigma, etc). I will prepay in us cash.
Please HELP

Albano



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Vs: Vs: Autoloaded to frame 1

2001-05-16 Thread Raimo Korhonen

M6 - fully manual.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Päivä: 16. toukokuuta 2001 11:02
Aihe: Re: Vs: Autoloaded to frame 1


On Tue, 15 May 2001, Raimo Korhonen wrote:

 I get always 37 shots onto 36 exposure roll with my MZ-5n. Always. With Leica I get 
38 but I do not think it is cost-effective.
 All the best!
 Raimo
 Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen
 

Thanks for the wishes Raimo. 

I am just inquisitive about Leica. Is it autoloading or manual loading?
What is the model name?

Cheers,
Ayash Kanto.

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Re: HELP!!!! Cheapo Lens Needed

2001-05-16 Thread Tiger Moses

I have a 50/1.4-M and a 28mm - M for sale
haven't pciked a price
great conditions, so whatever going rate is,
make offer and I'll tell you if sounds good

At 03:32 PM 5/16/01 -0300, you wrote:

Hi. I've bought a Super Program for a friend, who wants to start in this great
world of photography. The problem is the body comes alone, without lens. I made
some research here, but no one store have or want to sell a 50 f 2. (or 1.7)
So, I need somebody to sell me a 50mm f2 original or third party (maybe Ricoh,
Sigma, etc). I will prepay in us cash.
Please HELP

Albano



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Re: HELP!!!! Cheapo Lens Needed

2001-05-16 Thread GLewis4457

Have you looked on ebay?  There are often such lenses, Pentax, Ricoh, Sears, Chinon, 
etc... for not very much.
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June Popular Photography cover

2001-05-16 Thread Daniel J. Matyola

The June 2001 issue of Popular Photography has a cover photo of Mout Rainier by Tim 
Harris, taken with a Pentax 645 and 35mm f/3.5
lens.

Dan
--
Daniel J. Matyola  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Stanley, Powers  Matyola  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Suite203, 1170 US Highway 22 East  http://danmatyola.com
Bridgewater, NJ 08807  (908)725-3322  fax: (908)707-0399


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[not as much OT] Re: Drug Dealer Lens?

2001-05-16 Thread Bigtoeno2
This was sort of a random question i came to. What would the image quality be 
if Glenn set up a mirror opposite his window, and then took the photos facing 
backwards to the goings-onless conspicuous IMO. This would probably 
necessitate a tripod though. This question brings me to a question i have had 
for a while. If Glenn's mirror is say 20ft away, and the drug deal is say 
80ft from the mirror, would he focus at 20ft for the mirror, or 100ft for the 
distance of the image from the camera? I guess i could expiriment 
myself...and i think i will.

By the way Glenn, you could always sign up for the witness protection program 


Brent


Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a beginner

2001-05-16 Thread Bigtoeno2
As a proud owner of both, i can say that you should definitely start with the 
KX. For a beginner, i think you should start going all manual exposure, 
because auto is just too tempting for me at least. You'll learn a lot more 
about making your shots happen in manual. You can use the super A/super 
program in manual, but it is not as informing as the KX, becasue a match 
needle moving in response to changes in aperture and shutter speed IMO is a 
lot more helpfun than a LCD screen that either says the exposure is on or 
not. Once you get the hang of it though, the Super A should be you next 
purchase. I use aperture priority almost 90% of the time now, but i don't 
think i'd understand what i was doing had i not started with my KX and K1000. 

I've never had a 50mm/1.7, but i have had the 55/1.8, a M 50/2, and a M 
50/1.4. The 55 has a narrower depth of field than the others, which is very 
helpful when trying to get accurate focus. I'd say go with it as well, and 
wait for an A 50/1.7 when you get a Super A later on.

Brent


Re: [veering OT] Re: Drug Dealer Lens?

2001-05-16 Thread Patrick White

Shel Belinkoff Use the 400mm lens on a tripod and you'll be fine ...
until
Shel Belinkoff you have to testify in court.  Then use a 9mm.
I'm really hoping to use these as here are the people you want to
investigate if you decide to follow through information for the
police, and had not thought about the possibility of my photos
being used in court.  Hmm.  Bleah.

I work near one such place myself.  I even spot the occasional deal going
down on my way to/from work.  Some even are done literally within sight of a
community police station (although most are done 30ft. (10m) further down
the street).  The police know this is a hotbed and come through several
times a day to show a presence.  Chances are, they even recogonize faces of
the homeless and others that hang out here a lot.  If they've been working
on any sting operations that hit the area, they probably even know which of
those faces are the baddies that deal the drugs.  So, chances are, your
police probably already know who to investigate and where to set up a sting
operation.  It doesn't hurt to ask though as things do change, and they
sound like they recently changed in your area.
However, if I were you, I'd think twice about being involved with anything
that directly gets those people arrested.  Some may not be beyond trying to
fix the problem person in a direct manner.  A better solution might be to
organize your neighbors, who no doubt don't appreciate the goings on either.

have left me feeling that it's gone down a couple notches and
is no longer a place I can try to reassure my friends about when
they think about coming to visit.
...
Not sure I could get police into my house without the neighbours
noticing and figuring something's up, but I'm sure they've got
their own ways of investigating local goings-on.

If the neighbors are part of the problem, then it's probably time to move.
Otherwise, the owner of the property may well elect to invite them in to set
up an observation operation (then again, seeing as may make them a target
once the police leave, perhaps not).

I don't think I have the guts to
publish 'em while the subjects are still active though.

Do you mean actively dealing in your neighborhood, actively dealing
anywhere, or active as in still animate?

Folks do know I have a camera, so if photos suddenly started showing
up in random places, they'd probably figure out who took them.
(I'm hoping I can trust the police not to make my life more interesting
than it has to be by letting the wrong people know about the photos.)

Personally, I wouldn't trust the police to protect me in that way, but to
each their own.  BTW, it will only take one bright person with one photo to
stand around and figure approximately which window of which building it was
taken from.  I do this sort of thing for amusement and educational value
with other people's pictures of local landmarks.

Buyers I'd considered, but I hadn't thought that burglars might
also be dealers.  Hmm.

Dealer as burglers?  I hadn't though of either.  Seems like it would be
much too easy for them to mention to a customer where a nice camera setup
they would like to have one just like can be found.  People who buy large
quantities of drugs for their own use seem to be perpetually in need of
money for some odd reason.

Of course, according to my friend who owns this house, the only
way to get the city to do something is to get the _Baltimore_Sun_
to write an article about it first, but I'm hoping this recent
West Side Initiative will work in my favour.

Have you tried the Sun?  Maybe they are interested in a photo essay or some
editorial shots to go with stories about the West Side Initiative?

stay safe,
patbob ([EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED])

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Re: New Kodak MAX 400 film?

2001-05-16 Thread William Robb


- Original Message -
From: Alan Chan
Subject: Re: New Kodak MAX 400 film?


 Well,  I haven't tried it yet ... but I did see a new package
of Kodak Max
 400 that claimed 25% better pictures ... or something to that
effect.  I'd
 be really interested to know how Kodak quantifies that.

 By introducing another new box? :p It's not the first time
Kodak did things
 like this, and won't be the last I believe.

Actually, the new release of Max 400 is the Generation 7
version. As Kodak refuses to quantify grain/resolution in a
manner consistent with industry standards, it is difficult to
say by how much the new film is improved. A claim of 25% better
acutance/ finer grain would be in keeping with recent
improvements in their film technology. The new film does have
better colour fidelity, IMO, and finer grain, from the small
sample I have seen. There is much more to this film than a new
box, whether you care to actually check your facts or not
doesn't alter this.
William Robb


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Re: digital cameras

2001-05-16 Thread JDStep
In a message dated 5/16/2001 12:31:20 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


From what I've been able to see, it seems to me the quality of output
from digital cameras can be on par with film, it's just way more
expensive right now.


I, too, am amazed at the quality of digital. I can tell you that my neighbor 
is a professional photographer, working for AP. He uses a Nikon D1, which I 
believe has a maximum resolution of 2.74 megapixels. At any rate, he does 
astonishing work with this camera. I have seen some of his recent work, shot 
at our neighborhood "Cinco De Mayo" party a couple of weeks ago, that was all 
low-light situations. I was amazed at the quality of this pictures, given 
that fact that it was and overcast day and nearly dark!

John Stephenson
St. Louis, MO


Re: KX and KMs spotted in San Jose

2001-05-16 Thread JDStep
In a message dated 5/16/2001 12:01:06 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


For the early K-mount fans:

I dropped my MXs off at Apollo Camera for CLAs late last week
(I'll soon be able to use the black one I picked up a year ago!),
and took a look in their sales cabinet. There wasn't a great
deal of Pentax stuff, but they did have three nice-looking old
K-mount bodies - one KX and two KMs, I think (or it could have
been the other way around). I didn't inquire what the price
was, but in the past their prices have been similar to what
you would expect to see at KEH. No bargains, but I've always
been pleased with the quality of work from their technicians.

There are also a few Ricoh and/or Chinon bodies in the case.
Not much in the way of lenses, though (and mostly 3rd party).

If anyone would like me to find out more about what is there,
or to get a price on the K bodies, just let me know.


If the KX is in really good shape, I would like to know what they are asking, 
especially if it is a black body.

John Stephenson
St. Louis, MO


Re: [not as much OT] Re: Drug Dealer Lens?

2001-05-16 Thread Bob Blakely



100 ft.

Stand nose close to your bathroom mirror. Focus 
your eye on the speck of toothpaste you spit on it this morning. Then focus on 
the fly spot on the wall behind you (through the mirror). See the 
difference?

Pentax made a right angle extension for telephotos. 
A mirror in the extension allowed dirty old men to photograph nearly naked young 
beauties at the beach without being obvious. The mirror in the device was only 
centimeters away from the lens. The voyeur does not focus on the mirror! The 
lens can't focus this close! The lens is focused the total bent path to the 
lovelies.

Regards,
Bob...

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 1:37 
  PM
  Subject: [not as much OT] Re: Drug Dealer 
  Lens?
  This was sort of a 
  random question i came to. What would the image quality be if Glenn set up 
  a mirror opposite his window, and then took the photos facing backwards to 
  the goings-onless conspicuous IMO. This would probably necessitate a 
  tripod though. This question brings me to a question i have had for a 
  while. If Glenn's mirror is say 20ft away, and the drug deal is say 80ft 
  from the mirror, would he focus at 20ft for the mirror, or 100ft for the 
  distance of the image from the camera? I guess i could expiriment 
  myself...and i think i will. By the way Glenn, you could always 
  sign up for the witness protection program  Brent 
  


Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a beginner

2001-05-16 Thread JDStep
In a message dated 5/16/2001 1:23:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


I would recommend Super A/Program because they are generally in better 
condition and more common.

regards,
Alan Chan

I'm about to buy my first camera and I'm having a bit of trouble
deciding between these two cameras.. The price of them is about the
same, the SuperA's exterior being in a much better condition. I'd love
to hear some comment's from you people. Also I'd like ot hear if you
think there is some other body in this price range I should check out.


Perhaps there are fewer KX's because they are so well-liked by their owners 
that they hang on to them forever. That is why I am keeping mine! If you find 
a good KX, buy it!

John Stephenson


Re: viewfinder diopter for MX

2001-05-16 Thread William Kane

Which eye is which?  You want to get a -1.75 or -2.00 diopter for the
eye that you use to look thorugh the camera with.  I'm not sure, but I
don't believe that they make them in -1.75, just -1 and -2, right guys?

Bill, who has a +1 diopter to fit LX, Super Program, etc extra.

Frank Wajer wrote:
 
 Hi all,
 
 it is still not clear to me what diopter I need for my Pentax MX.
 My glasses are -1.75 and -2.00.
 
 bye,
 
 Frank
 
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Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a beginner

2001-05-16 Thread JDStep
In a message dated 5/16/2001 3:50:51 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


As a proud owner of both, i can say that you should definitely start with 
the 
KX. For a beginner, i think you should start going all manual exposure, 
because auto is just too tempting for me at least. You'll learn a lot more 
about making your shots happen in manual. You can use the super A/super 
program in manual, but it is not as informing as the KX, becasue a match 
needle moving in response to changes in aperture and shutter speed IMO is a 
lot more helpfun than a LCD screen that either says the exposure is on or 
not. Once you get the hang of it though, the Super A should be you next 
purchase. I use aperture priority almost 90% of the time now, but i don't 
think i'd understand what i was doing had i not started with my KX and 
K1000. 

I've never had a 50mm/1.7, but i have had the 55/1.8, a M 50/2, and a M 
50/1.4. The 55 has a narrower depth of field than the others, which is very 
helpful when trying to get accurate focus. I'd say go with it as well, and 
wait for an A 50/1.7 when you get a Super A later on. 


Ditto! I recommend the KX and the 55mm f/1.8, too!

John Stephenson


Re: [not as much OT] Re: Drug Dealer Lens?

2001-05-16 Thread D. Glenn Arthur Jr.

Brent asked:
 This was sort of a random question i came to. What would the image quality be 
 if Glenn set up a mirror opposite his window, and then took the photos facing 
 backwards to the goings-onless conspicuous IMO. This would probably 
 necessitate a tripod though. 

Tripod is do-able -- just makes it harder to aim.  I'd expect image
quality to be reduced, but probably still useable if I used a very
good mirror.

 This question brings me to a question i have had 
 for a while. If Glenn's mirror is say 20ft away, and the drug deal is say 
 80ft from the mirror, would he focus at 20ft for the mirror, or 100ft for the 
 distance of the image from the camera? I guess i could expiriment 

100 feet.  Total length of the light path.

 By the way Glenn, you could always sign up for the witness protection program 

You have no idea just how much of a lifestyle change that would be.
(OTOH, it would finally give me the incentive to stop waffling and
transition.)

The things that would make WPP such an emotional issue are the
same things already working against me here -- I'm a rather
conspicuous person, looks-wise, and a performer active in a couple 
different bands.

Let's hope I don't screw this up in a way that requires the
Witness Protection Program to get me out of it.  *shudder*

-- Glenn

PS:  Today, different person, in the alley _behind_ my house.
Called it in; officer came out to look for the stash.  Shot
through a window that has adhesive fake frosted glass stuff 
stuck to it, through the gaps between pieces of the stuff.
Pretty sure nobody was going to see me there, but part of the
lens was obscured, resulting in a center clear soft focus
effect.

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Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a beginner

2001-05-16 Thread Paul Jones



Hi,

There both good cameras and would probaly both do 
the job fine, i'd go and have play with them both and see which fits most 
comfortable in your hands.

Paul

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 2:15 
  PM
  Subject: Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a 
  beginner
  In a message dated 
  5/16/2001 3:50:51 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
  
  As a proud owner of both, i can say that you should definitely 
start with the KX. For a beginner, i think you should start going 
all manual exposure, because auto is just too tempting for me at least. 
You'll learn a lot more about making your shots happen in manual. You 
can use the super A/super program in manual, but it is not as informing 
as the KX, becasue a match needle moving in response to changes in 
aperture and shutter speed IMO is a lot more helpfun than a LCD screen 
that either says the exposure is on or not. Once you get the hang of it 
though, the Super A should be you next purchase. I use aperture priority 
almost 90% of the time now, but i don't think i'd understand what i was 
doing had i not started with my KX and K1000. I've never had a 
50mm/1.7, but i have had the 55/1.8, a M 50/2, and a M 50/1.4. The 55 
has a narrower depth of field than the others, which is very helpful 
when trying to get accurate focus. I'd say go with it as well, and wait 
for an A 50/1.7 when you get a Super A later on. Ditto! I recommend 
  the KX and the 55mm f/1.8, too! John Stephenson 



LX + FA-1 + handgreep

2001-05-16 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

http://www.foto-konijnenberg.nl/uk/index.html
They offer a LX + FA1 plus handgrip for hfl 1195,00, that is about $476.50
No idea if they are reputable though.

Frits
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Pentax in Photo Mags

2001-05-16 Thread Daniel J. Matyola

The June issue of Outdoor Photographer has 2 pages on the MZ-S Pro
Camera, and Popular Photography for June has a cover photo taken with a
Pentax 645.  Good month.
--
Daniel J. Matyola  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Stanley, Powers  Matyola  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Suite203, 1170 US Highway 22 East  http://danmatyola.com
Bridgewater, NJ 08807  (908)725-3322  fax: (908)707-0399


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Re: June Popular Photography cover

2001-05-16 Thread Joe Urmos

The June 2001 issue of Popular Photography has a cover photo of Mout
Rainier by Tim Harris, taken with a Pentax 645 and 35mm f/3.5 lens.


It's Fitzharris

Anyway, not a photo I would brag about. Note in particular how much
brighter the mountain's reflection is, or how well defined the mountain
shadows in the reflection are compared to the absent shadows on the
mountain itself. A physical impossibility; reflections are never brighter.

Either he used too strong a ND grad filter or he got too carried away with
PhotoShop (I tend to think it's the latter). These manipulations ruined for
me what is otherwise a very nice shot.

OB Pentax -- Notice the further discussion in the magazine about the MZ-S
and it's tilted top? A devious strategy by Pentax: Provide an incomplete
press kit so the magazine(s) will mention your new camera some more. All
press is good press


-joe



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Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a beginner

2001-05-16 Thread D. Glenn Arthur Jr.

I like the Super Program and the KX for _very_ different reasons.
I'd hate to give up either.

I'm inclined to agree witht he folks saying that you'll probably
learn more with the KX, except that I'll note that if you really
do plan to concentrate on learning the mechanics, you _can_ do 
that with the Super Program if you're disciplined enough to use
manual mode.

When I'm going to be working in manual mode anyhow, I do prefer
the KX.  I find it significantly easier to use than the Super
Program in manual mode.  When I want to make use of the convenience
of one of the auto modes, well since the Super Program has those
and the KX doesn't, my choice is pretty clear there, too.  :-)

*For*me*, the Super Program would be too small to fit comfortably
in my hands, were it not for the grip attachment.  That grip makes
all the difference.  The KX is just large enough to feel right in
my hands as is.  If your hands are the size of mine, you want to
make sure your Super Program has the grip (or the winder that 
I've still not gotten my hands on), or you want the KX despite
its lack of automation.  If your hands are smaller than mine, the
KX might not be as comfortable to hold as the Super Program.


I say that after everything anyone here says, you probably need
to find a way to get your hands on one of each and hold them
before deciding which to buy.  If they were more similar, perhaps
it'd be easier to offer advice, but these are very different in
how they feel to hold and use.

-- Glenn

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Re: [not as much OT] Re: Drug Dealer Lens?

2001-05-16 Thread JDStep
In a message dated 5/16/2001 4:37:52 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


Brent asked:
 This was sort of a random question i came to. What would the image 
quality be 
 if Glenn set up a mirror opposite his window, and then took the photos 
facing 
 backwards to the goings-onless conspicuous IMO. This would probably 
 necessitate a tripod though. 

Tripod is do-able -- just makes it harder to aim. I'd expect image
quality to be reduced, but probably still useable if I used a very
good mirror.

 This question brings me to a question i have had 
 for a while. If Glenn's mirror is say 20ft away, and the drug deal is say 
 80ft from the mirror, would he focus at 20ft for the mirror, or 100ft for 
the 
 distance of the image from the camera? I guess i could expiriment 

100 feet. Total length of the light path.

 By the way Glenn, you could always sign up for the witness protection 
program 


You all have way to much time on your hands! Glenn, ever think someone is 
watching you while you are watching someone else? 




Fw: Pictures of a TaeKwonDo demo

2001-05-16 Thread Donald Ross

Hi Rebecca

I tried to answe this yesterday from work, howver, my ISP wouldn't allow me to 
transfer to
PDML.  Anyway, here's my 2 cents worth...

Don
  - Original Message -
  From: Donald Ross [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 15:19
  Subject: Re: Pictures of a TaeKwonDo demo
 
 
   Hi Rebecca
  
   I'm no expert, but there are a couple of things I would have done
   differently.  These pictures look as if they were taken on a sunny day.
  If
   anything 400 was probably fast enough.  I saw nothing in the scenes that
   would necessitate the use of polariser.  These are commonly used to
 reduce
   reflected light (glare) and it will reduce your lens speed by at least a  stop.  
 I
   believe the underexposure is the camera metering 18% gray.  I can't tell
   anything from the photos that would indicate the contrastiness of the
  scene.
   Perhaps +1 or even +2 exposure compensation would have helped.  The
   background would have been washed out but the subject would be better
   exposed.  I don't know the camera or the lens, but with my Z1-p, I would
   have let autofocus do it's job.  That's all I can think of.  Hope it
  helps.
  
   Don
  
   - Original Message -
   From: B. K. Lane Sr. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 16:41
   Subject: Pictures of a TaeKwonDo demo
  
  
I finally got some pictures up that I took a couple of weekends ago.
When I got the film back and looked at the pictures I could have
 kicked
myself in the head. I used 400 ISO instead of using 800 and most of
 the
pictures turned out blurry.
   
http://Beckling.tripod.com/demo.htm
   
Any helpful comments or hints are sure appreciated.
   
Thanks,
Rebecca
   
NetZero Platinum
No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://www.netzero.net
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Re: KX and KMs spotted in San Jose

2001-05-16 Thread John Francis

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
Part 1.1Type: Plain Text (text/plain)
Encoding: 7bit

Could you find some way to turn of the encoding and post in plain text?

Unfortunately you appear to be usin AOL 6.0, which doesn't offer plain
text as an option as far as I have been able to tell.

You might want to consider using some alternative piece of software
if you are going to post to discussion lists - posting in HTML is
often considered to be ill-mannered (and, in particular, is contrary
to the guidelines for posting to the Pentax discussion list).

-- 
John Francis  [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Silicon Graphics, Inc.
(650)933-82952011 N. Shoreline Blvd. MS 43U-991
(650)932-0828 (Fax)  Mountain View, CA   94043-1389
Hello.   My name is Darth Vader.   I am your father.   Prepare to die.
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Re: [not as much OT] Re: Drug Dealer Lens?

2001-05-16 Thread Rfsindg

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Pentax made a right angle extension for telephotos. A mirror in the 
extension allowed dirty old men to photograph nearly naked young beauties at 
the beach without being obvious. 

Bob,

I resent that!  I'm not any older than you are.  
And I wash regularly too.

(There have been several right angle mirrors on ebay in the past month or so. 
g)

Regards,  Bob S.
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Re: Pentax SuperA vs. KX for a beginner

2001-05-16 Thread Rfsindg

Paul ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) writes:

 There both good cameras and would probaly both do the job fine, i'd go and 
have play with them both and see which fits most comfortable in your hands. 

Paul,

A very good point!  Some folks don't like the smaller M and A cameras as they 
are too small for large hands.

The other thing I would do is wind the shutter and play with the mirror 
lock-up.  After some experience, I can tell when a Super Program doesn't 
sound smooth on winding (no mirror lock-up to test).  If things kind of 
click, clack, and pull in an irregular way as you wind, I'll pass on 
purchasing the camera.  They sound to much like my 17 year old Super 
Program...which gets louder and more irregular with each passing year.  I 
fear the winder mechanism will fail.

I don't have as much experience with the KX, but think the same holds true.  
Look for one with a smooth wind and mirror lock-up.  I passed up a black KX 
because the mirror lock-up was too sloppy.  It didn't go up and stay up all 
the way, too much play in the mechanism.  I've got to believe it was headed 
for the repair shop at the next owner's expense.

Regards,  Bob S.
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Almost.

2001-05-16 Thread Donald Ross

Hi Gang

This one was close.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1237282607r=0t=0showTutorial=0ed=990
033460indexURL=0rd=1

The difference was 30 seconds.  I was bidding from work and it took forever to refresh 
from my
last successful bid.  Even with the price going up $100.00 in the last 10 minutes, 
this is
still a great deal.  I really wanted that ES.  Oh well, I'll have to wait awhile 
longer b4 I
can start taking advantage of some those great inexpensive Taks.  John and Paul, I 
noticed you
were in on the early bidding.  Is there a reason you didn't pursue it?

Regards,

Don

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Good price?

2001-05-16 Thread Emmanuel Ingelsten



Hi!
I'm a total newbie and know very little fair prices when it 
comes to used equipment.
I've been offerend to buy a Pentax 100-300 with Autofocus. Not 
the new silver one but an older. They Guy wants 1200 SEK which is 125 US$. He 
says it's in good optical condition and this is what it looks like:
http://home.bip.net/e.ingelsten/Pentax100-300A.jpg
Do you think it's a fair deal? Maybe the prices on used camera 
equipment is different in the states and over here?

Oh, and when I'm asking I wonder if there are any thing 
special to think about with shooting with my manual Takumar 135 f2.5. It doesn't 
have SMC, what does that mean in actual photo-situations?

Thanx alot for all the help and fun this list gives 
me!!

Emmanuel
-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 
-- -- -- -- -- -- -- --http://eman.sphosting.com - my 
website

 


Re: Grades in Cokin P 121 ?

2001-05-16 Thread Treena Harp

I don't have any P series filters, but I do have some A series ones, and
they usually print the needed compensation on the case. Hope that helps!

- Original Message -
From: Ramesh Kumar_C [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 11:32 AM
Subject: Grades in Cokin P 121 ?


 Hi
 I am planning to get Cokin P Series Nuetral/Gray Graduated Filter
 and it's number is P 121.
 This filters comes in 3 grades and they are reffered as P 121L, P 121S and
P
 121F.

 Can anyone tell by how many stops each these filters reduce the light?

 Thanks
 Ramesh
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Re: KX and KMs spotted in San Jose

2001-05-16 Thread JDStep
In a message dated 5/16/01 5:30:22 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


Could you find some way to turn of the encoding and post in plain text?


I wasn't aware that there was a problem with the way I was posting to the 
list. I will look into it and see what I can do.

Thanks.


Re: IR and Pentax

2001-05-16 Thread Rob Studdert

On 16 May 2001, at 9:51, tom wrote:

 Well, crap, now I have to get all methodical. Luckily I work from home,
 so I can do that
 
 I just stuck the zx-5n on a tripod, and this time used the 85/1.4. I
 pointed the lens at a vertical line in a window, manually focused at
 infinity, turned on AF, and let it do it's thing. Then I tried it with
 the filter. It locked on, and shifted it *more* then what the IR mark
 would suggest. Almost twice as much. 
 
 I didn't see very much difference in the amount of time it took to lock
 on.
 
 Next time I have some HIE in the camera I'll test to see how accurate it
 is...

Now this IS interesting, I will be keen to hear your reports after your next roll 
of HIE :-)

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
Fax +61-2-9554-9259
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Almost.

2001-05-16 Thread PAUL STENQUIST

There's a mint ES here in Michigan at Oakland Camera Repair. I think
they're asking $200 with two lenses: an SMC Tak 135/3.5 and an SMC Tak
50/1.4. If you wish, I'll hunt up their phone number.

Donald Ross wrote:
 
 Hi Gang
 
 This one was close.
 
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1237282607r=0t=0showTutorial=0ed=990
 033460indexURL=0rd=1
 
 The difference was 30 seconds.  I was bidding from work and it took forever to 
refresh from my
 last successful bid.  Even with the price going up $100.00 in the last 10 minutes, 
this is
 still a great deal.  I really wanted that ES.  Oh well, I'll have to wait awhile 
longer b4 I
 can start taking advantage of some those great inexpensive Taks.  John and Paul, I 
noticed you
 were in on the early bidding.  Is there a reason you didn't pursue it?
 
 Regards,
 
 Don
 
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Re: Pentax in Photo Mags

2001-05-16 Thread Mark Roberts

Daniel J. Matyola [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The June issue of Outdoor Photographer has 2 pages on the MZ-S Pro
Camera, and Popular Photography for June has a cover photo taken with a
Pentax 645.  Good month.

And did you notice the double-page photo taken with a Pentax 67 in the first few
pages of Outdoor Photographer? Very nice.

BTW: I've concluded that O.P. can be educational if you look at the photos
featured, but reading most of the articles is a waste of time.
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