Re: never touch the shutter

2001-12-01 Thread Kristian Schuessler

- Original Message -
From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Alan Chan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: never touch the shutter


 Don't sweat it too much. The shutter is more sturdy than the manual
 makes you feel. I've heard stories of people pushing a finger all the
 way through the blades without damage one they return to their correct
 position. I've touched my ME-S and ZX5's shutters a few times without
consequence.


I travelled at Scotland this summer, one K-2 went irrepairable, so I  could
use ohnly my second K-2, the PZ-1 p and LX bodies.

Pushing a finger into the shutter (not completely through) of the PZ-1 p, I
rearranged the shutterblades, only one of them heavy crumpled, made a
test-film and all was o.k.

Shutterblades are moved only from one side in this shutter, moving free in a
slot on the other side - an therfore the damage was not so severe and I use
this body untill today without a repair ...

Kristian-Heinrich












 AC Stuck your finger through the shutter blades and then fire the shutter
(by
 AC accident?) might chop off your finger. So be very very careful!!!
Well...
 AC maybe not...

 AC regards,
 AC Alan Chan

 Aaaargh! The instant I received your mail I had an irresistible urge
 to try out my K2DMD... now I have to sell them all because I cannot
 operate a camera without my index finger... :)



 Good light,
Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: flash stuff

2001-12-01 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 12/1/01 1:55:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 This is pretty far-fetched.  What if your much-vaunted K1000 breaks down,
 leaving you with access to only a pinhole camera and flashlight?  Should
 you really have to be prepared for all possibilities?  Personally, I'd
 rather carry a spare TTL flash.  :)
 
I carry all types of flashes with me. Since assignments won't be dragging 
me all over the place anymore, I get to choose. As noted, I shoot portraiture 
most times now and the strategically placed adjustable flash adding pops of 
manual flash will do when all the TTL flashes in the world won't. But then, 
that comes from my being comfortable and competent with manual flash. 

But I repeat the question: how would ~you~ handle the situation I proposed? 
What's the formula to get a properly exposed shot with a broken 283 and a 
K1000, subject distance 11.5 feet? 


[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: strictions on photographing

2001-12-01 Thread Robert Harris

Mike Johnston wrote:

I would think that it would depend where in the world you were. Here in the
US there was no restrictions as long as you were on public property. After
9/11, who knows.


 There are some restrictions
 on publishing as well. There was a famous case a few years ago when the NY
 Times magazine published a picture of a black man in a business suit in a
 city cross walk and used it to illustrate a story about  the black middle
 class--the fellow sued, arguing that he was not a member of the middle class
 but the upper class, and that he was not a representative of the article's
 subject. 


  I recall that one, but  my recollection is that the suit was on 
slightly different grounds. The photo was a large cover shot on the 
Sunday NY Times Magazine of the guy striding down the street in a 
well-tailored suit carrying a briefcase and the cover carried a tag 
referring to a story inside about members of the emerging Black middle 
class ignoring the remaining problems of the poor, turning their backs 
on the ghetto, and the like. And his suit essentially claimed that he 
had done no such thing, that the juxtaposition misrepresented his views, 
and he was publicly embarrassed and defamed. He did win, and I think 
that was a correct decision. Sort of the equivalent of publishing a 
photo of carefree Mike Johnston walking down the street to illustrate a 
story about Ax murderers going free even though he was not an ax 
murderer. :)

Of course, I also am going on memory, a memory that gets more feeble as 
the years go by, so I may not have all details right. :)

Another suit I recall hearing about a while back -- the woman who 
appeared in Dorothea Lange's famous photo, Migrant Mother (PDML 
reference, p. 599), sued years later, because the photo made her look 
poor and hopelessly destitute but she had become successful and entered 
the middle class, etc., so she was embarrassed. I believe she lost that 
suit, and I think that was a correct decision since the photo was 
historically accurate.

At any event, the moral is, be careful of how you use photos. :)
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FA 31/1.8 AL Limited Lens Hood

2001-12-01 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

I haven't seen Jostein posting this yet, but the 31 Limited does indeed 
have a non-removable lens hood. It is fastened by screws. This means that 
eg. the Cokin filter system will be hard to use with this lens. Screw-in 
filters works.

Pål
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Re: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights

2001-12-01 Thread David Brooks

Tom.Can you get this book from Kodak,or would most
bigger camera stores supply them.

Dave
 Begin Original Message 
 From: Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 14:30:40 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights

My Kodak Photoguide, a tiny book that should be in every photographers gaget
bag, says 1/15 at f2.0.

--graywolf



- Original Message -
 From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights


What would you recommend for time if you used
400 film and a 55 f2?/

Dave

 Begin Original Message 




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

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Odp: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-01 Thread Artur Ledóchowski

- Original Message -
From: Chris Brogden [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!


 No, the display shows that speed.  I noticed this with the MZ-7 a few days
 ago... it seems to set a sync speed of 1/15 to 1/45 when used on the fully
 automatic mode indoors, which is ludicrous... few casual shooters can
 handhold at that speed, even when the flash provides some of the exposure.

AFAIK, the flash freezes movement, no matter what the shutter speed is set.
As long, as the shutter speed is set to a medium value (1/30 - 1/60) and the
photographer uses a standard lens or standard zoom ( like 35-80 or so),
there is no problem getting sharp pics...

 Pentax's explanation was that a slow speed provides a better balance
 between flash and ambient light, which is true, but it can also result in
 subject blur.  Canons use a faster sync speed, which makes for more
 flash-heavy picutres, but which results in sharper exposures sometimes.

Slower shutter speed allows the camera to gather more ambient light,
preventing the night background effects... I definitely prefer it to the
faster sync speed, especially because I don't use films faster than ISO400
very often...
Greetz
Artur
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Re: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights

2001-12-01 Thread David Brooks

Thanks.The lights are going up on our streets
now.

Dave
 Begin Original Message 
 From: Steve Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 17:23:54 -0800
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights

1/8 second. f2 is one full stop slower, 400ASA is 2 stops faster, so
you need 1 stop faster shutter speed. Try it, you`ll like it.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message - 
 From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights


 What would you recommend for time if you used
 400 film and a 55 f2?/
 
 Dave
 
  Begin Original Message 
 
 From: Steve Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 06:28:37 -0800
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: shooting holiday lights
 
 
 Hi Amita, a tripod is a must unless you are going to use 
 800 to 3200 ASA. I like 100 ASA f1.4 and 1/4 second 
 exposures with a tripod and self timer or cable release.
  No flash. If you don`t have a f1.4 adjust the time as
 needed.
 Steve Larson
 Redondo Beach, California
 - Original Message - 
  From: Amita Guha [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 6:21 AM
 Subject: shooting holiday lights
 
 
  We're going to the Bronx Zoo tomorrow night to
  look at a display of holiday lights. How would I
  shoot something like this? Do I use a flash?
  Should I bring my monopod and do long exposures?
  
  Thanks,
  Amita
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  End Original Message 
 
 
 
 
 Pentax User
 Stouffville Ontario Canada
 
 Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: Vs: What Zoom?

2001-12-01 Thread Lon Williamson

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 In a message dated 11/25/01 3:33:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  Sigma APO Macro Super 4-5.6/70-300. I have the earlier non-Super version and
  the new one has tested even better.
  All the best!
  Raimo
 
 Thanks Raimo!

I have the same lens.  It comes with a hood, and that hood
is necessary to keep contrast up.  This lens is flarey compared
to my Pentax lenses.

-Lon
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Re: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights

2001-12-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Dave, any bookstore should be able to get it for you. I got my current copy
from a local camera store.

It is called:
Kodak Pocket Photoguide. fourth edition. 2001.
Publication AR-21.
ISBN 0-07985-807-9
$14.95 US
$21.95 Can


Published under license by :
Silver Pixel Press
21 Jet View Drive
Rochester, NY 14624 USA
http://www.silverpixelpress.com

It is a neet little book with all those things you can't remember when you
need them. It is full of those little calculator wheels that tell you what
you need. The one for existing light is where I got the Xmas light settings
from. Handiest little photo book ever. I have one from the mid-fifties that
I keep with my Graphic.

--graywolf



- Original Message -
From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights


 Tom.Can you get this book from Kodak,or would most
 bigger camera stores supply them.

 Dave
  Begin Original Message 
  From: Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 14:30:40 -0500
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights

 My Kodak Photoguide, a tiny book that should be in every photographers
gaget
 bag, says 1/15 at f2.0.

 --graywolf
 


 - Original Message -
  From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 10:01 AM
 Subject: Re: Re: shooting holiday lights


 What would you recommend for time if you used
 400 film and a 55 f2?/

 Dave

  Begin Original Message 




 Pentax User
 Stouffville Ontario Canada

 Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
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The Pug World

2001-12-01 Thread David Brooks

With  the list members truly covering the 4 corners of the
world)its very interesting to see what the planet looks
like at the same time(well a 2 hour window)

Dave


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

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Dec PUG comments

2001-12-01 Thread Rfsindg

Just some mentions of photos that caught my eye and have not been noted yet...

Jaume Lahuerta - The Tower and the (Ghost) Church - Wonderful nighttime cloud 
effects over the city and the tower keeps attracting my attention.

Sergey SHP - St. Petersburg, City Centre - So was it nighttime in Poland and 
broad daylight in St. Petersburg, or is that moonlight?

Bill Piefer - Clockworks - simple subject, well executed

Stan Halpin - Yellow Flower - Yellow Bug - I like the flower and the bug 
makes it all that much better.  Do you think the Portra 160 NC is muting the 
colors?

Rodger Whitlock - A Synchro-Tomato - The fuzzy stuff threw me off at first, 
then drew me into the photo.  You can almost feel the warmth of the sunshine.

Christian Skofteland - Dusk Watch - I like the silouettes and the color, but 
you've got to lose the CrappyScan scanner.

William Robb - Berries - Very vibrant colors and great contrast between the 
blue berries and the red stems.  What kind of Ivy is that?

Cotty - Stefan Asleep, 2001 - Sell this photo to a stock agency!  It is a 
wonderfully lit and exposed example of a sleeping child.  He will forgive you 
for taking the photo when he as kids of his own. g

Chris Niemertelny - Synchronous Willow - Why do I keep on coming back to look 
at this photo again and again.  It is deceptively simple yet attractive.

Gianfranco, Darryn, Jon, Annsan - as others commented, your images are 
excellent.

Regards,  Bob S.
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Re: New Pentax digital SLR

2001-12-01 Thread Jan van Wijk

Well said Cotty!

Exactly my own point of view at the moment ...

(delaying buying a 3-set of limited lenses until things clear up :-)

Regards, JvW

On Fri, 30 Nov 2001 15:43:22 +, Cotty wrote:


If there is anyone at Pentax reading this, or anyone knows anyone at 
Pentax, please copy and paste the following and email it to them:

--
Dear Pentax,

I am an amateur Pentax user of many years, on the cusp of introducing 
digital image acquisition to my repertoire. I am painfully close to 
buying a Canon D30, and I do mean painfully. I am prepared to wait - but 
not for much longer. The point is, if I don't get the chance to buy a 
Pentax DSLR soon (before Christmas 2002 TOPS), I will, without doubt, be 
getting a D30, and swapping glass as appropriate. The even bigger point: 
very unlikely I will swap back, because then I will be caught up in the 
Canon Way, updating bits of kit as and when appropriate. Sure I'll keep 
some vintage Pentax kit, but as a company, that's of little interest to 
you - what you want is for me to buy a Pentax D, not a Canon D. What you 
want is for me to stay Pentax, so I'll then upgrade as new cameras become 
available, new lenses, and so on. So please, I know you're working on it, 
I know you're building it - give me (and all the rest of us in this 
situation) a quick word of confirmation. Tap out a quick press release, 
give it to the magazines as a filler even. But give me a confirmation 
that we'll see hardware on the shelves sometime SOON! Thank you.
-

-
Jan van Wijk;   www.fsys.demon.nl
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Re: Spotted on eBay

2001-12-01 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 30/11/01 23:50:19 GMT Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

... I do not consider myself a lazy person as I *do* have 
pictures available upon request. It is just I was unable to upload these due 
some net problem on eBay's end I think,... 

Probably best to put the url so at least it *looks* like you tried to upload 
them. Hey, think of all the free publicity Cotty, Mark, and I have generated 
for you. 

That'll be $20, please

Kind regards from sunny Brighton

Peter
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RE: strictions on photographing

2001-12-01 Thread Ed Mathews

Much of this depends on how you use the image, how you depict it, and
who finds out.  It's not really where you are standing, so much as
what's in your viewfinder.  I submit some work for stock, and in
addition to needing model releases for every recognizable person, you
also need property releases for recognizable private property.  I don't
worry about it too much on my website, because I'm not making money on
it there, and the photo is not likely to be seen by enough people to
increase the odds that someone will ever complain about it.  But for
commercial work - most agencies are very strict about what's in the
photograph that someone could potentially sue them for.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

snip
  I would think that it would depend where in the world you 
 were. Here 
  in the US there was no restrictions as long as you were on public 
  property. After 9/11, who knows.
snip
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Which 100 mm Macro?

2001-12-01 Thread Dave Weiss

Hi,

I was hoping that the friendly folks on the list could help me decide on a
macro lens, roughly in the 100 mm range, prefer 1:1 but 1:2 okay.
I would like to take casual portraits with it and an occasional macro shot. 
My main concern is optical quality. 

I noticed that the Macro 100mm f/3.5 SMCP-FA Auto Focus Lens is fairly
inexpensive new... any particular reason?  Is optical quality good?  I had
been set on buying a 100f4.0 M.  I use to have one and liked it as far as
optical quality.

I also noticed several Tamron 90 mm adaptall lenses.  I have often read on
the list that tamron AF are well respected.  I would be fine without the AF
capability.  How are those?  There seems to be several variations--anyone
know anything about these?  

thanks

dave

 





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RE: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-01 Thread Ed Mathews

Yeah, what Chris said.   To sum up, it depends on the ambient light
level.  The camera sets a faster sync speed in brighter light and a
slower on in dim light in order to (attempt to) balance the flash and
ambient light better.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Chris Brogden
 Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 1:38 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!
 
 
 On Fri, 30 Nov 2001, Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
 
  I think that your camera is actually using 1/100 sec. but 
 the dislay 
  does not have that speed so it shows the next lower speed.
 
 No, the display shows that speed.  I noticed this with the 
 MZ-7 a few days ago... it seems to set a sync speed of 1/15 
 to 1/45 when used on the fully automatic mode indoors, which 
snip 
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RE: Re[2]: Illegal Street Photography?

2001-12-01 Thread Ed Mathews

But is this the same or similar law that HCB himself sited in order to
keep the recent photos of himself in Faceless by David Douglas Duncan?
He was successful in keeping that from being available in France, right?

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Bob Walkden
 Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 8:50 PM
 To: frank theriault
 Subject: Re[2]: Illegal Street Photography?
 
 
 Hi,
 
 I go to talks by big name photographers quite frequently, and 
 have been to several by Magnum photographers and they all 
 moan like hell about it. As the article says, it makes HCB a criminal.
snip
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Re: shooting holiday lights

2001-12-01 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 12/1/01 7:11:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Tom.Can you get this book from Kodak,or would most
 bigger camera stores supply them.
 

They are rare now. (Back in the days), most serious photo store and labs 
kept them around. Whether they are available from your local pro lab or 
store or even KODAK is questionable. They were a freebie pass-out from KODAK 
to dealers (which means a lot of chintzy small dealers and pro shops were too 
cheap to pay for the shipping). 

Try your larger labs or pro shops for copies. Or go on-line to KODAK and 
search KODAK publications.  

Great, GREAT little (free) book. 
(and no, you can't have mine) 

Mafud
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: shooting holiday lights

2001-12-01 Thread Shel Belinkoff

It's also available on line here:

http://www.blackrabbit.com/kodak.htm

You might also want to browse through the site as there are a few other
very well-regarded books on photography there.  Meehan's guide to
filters is one that is quite worthwhile:
http://www.blackrabbit.com/photo7.htm

Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
 
 Dave, any bookstore should be able to get it for you. I got my current copy
 from a local camera store.
 
 It is called:
 Kodak Pocket Photoguide. fourth edition. 2001.
 Publication AR-21.
 ISBN 0-07985-807-9
 $14.95 US
 $21.95 Can
 
 Published under license by :
 Silver Pixel Press
 21 Jet View Drive
 Rochester, NY 14624 USA
 http://www.silverpixelpress.com

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-01 Thread Richard Seaman

Todd,

Thanks for this idea, but actually, I was using a Tokina 150-500mm A 
lens, at the 500mm end!  Perhaps the contacts on the lens or body were 
fouled, and the camera thought it was a short focal length F or FA lens.  
BTW, what does auto flash mode mean?

I've been using this lens for some years without seeing anything like 
this.  I replaced the batteries with a new set, but with no effect.

Richard.

home page:  www.richard-seaman.com

 original message 

From: Todd Stanley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

What lens were you using?  The MZ cameras, in auto flash mode with a F or
FA lens attached, choose a shutter speed of 1/focal length as long as the
focal length is =100mm, in order to let more ambient light into the
picture.  I would guess you were using a 50mm lens or a zoom at about 50mm?

Todd



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Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-01 Thread Richard Seaman

Tom,

The MZ-5 can display 100, in fact it can display all the valid speeds 
up to and including 2000.

I'm hoping that the camera WAS using 1/100th but displaying 1/60th.  I'm 
wondering if the film would have been properly exposed (ie, flash output 
over the whole film area) if the camera was operating at 1/60th.  Would both 
shutter curtains be open simultaneously at 1/60th?  I suppose they would.

Of course, 1/60th sucks as a flash sync speed - 1/100th is bad enough.  
I'm surprised the MZ-S has a top speed of only 1/180, compared to the Z-1's 
1/250.  The MZ-S's high-speed sync with the new flash unit doesn't count for 
me, because of the type of photography I do - my subject is often 20, 30 or 
more feet away from me.  When using high-speed sync, the guide number falls 
to virtually nothing!

Richard.

home page:  www.richard-seaman.com

--- original message ---

From: Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I think that your camera is actually using 1/100 sec. but the dislay does
not have that speed so it shows the next lower speed.

- --graywolf



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Re: Computer Upgrade

2001-12-01 Thread Gary L. Murphy

On Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:57:14 +1100, Anthony Farr wrote:

That would be P-IV.  There should be no Arabic numerals mixed into Roman
numerals, after all the Romans didn't use Arabic numerals.  Earlier
Pentiums were P-I, P-II and P-III.  Here endeth my pedantry for today.

Maybe, but if you will look at the Intel logo for the P4, it is indeed, a 4, not 
IV  :-)

Okay, I'm off the soapbox. g





Later,
Gary
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The Migrant Mother

2001-12-01 Thread Mike Johnston

Bob H. wrote:

 Another suit I recall hearing about a while back -- the woman who
 appeared in Dorothea Lange's famous photo, Migrant Mother (PDML
 reference, p. 599), sued years later, because the photo made her look
 poor and hopelessly destitute but she had become successful and entered
 the middle class, etc., so she was embarrassed. I believe she lost that
 suit, and I think that was a correct decision since the photo was
 historically accurate.


I remember that one. She was essentially annoyed because she had never made
a dime on the photograph. The trouble is, neither did Dorothea Lange,
except indirectly. DL shot it for the FSA and it belongs to the Federal
Government. You can buy a print of it for less that $100 on the L. of C.
website right now if you want.

==Mike
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Re: The Pug World

2001-12-01 Thread Mike Johnston

Dave B. wrote:

 With  the list members truly covering the 4 corners of the
 world)its very interesting to see what the planet looks
 like at the same time(well a 2 hour window)


Is it? I find it totally trivial and completely unsuited to photography's
strengths. I've never cared a whit for those Day in the Life books,
either.

Just my opinion.

--Mike
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Re: flash stuff

2001-12-01 Thread Michael Perham

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I carry all types of flashes with me. Since assignments won't be dragging 
me all over the place anymore, I get to choose. As noted, I shoot portraiture 
most times now and the strategically placed adjustable flash adding pops of 
manual flash will do when all the TTL flashes in the world won't. But then, 
that comes from my being comfortable and competent with manual flash. 

Well, now we have wireless P-TTL that can fire one or more flashes 
strategically located and utilize TTL.  However, the whole point of 
 portable, shoe mount flashes, is for more impromptu work where the 
spontaneity of automated TTL flash is valuable.  I think if I were 
shooting  portraiture assignments I would invest in some form of 
studio flash system and a good flash meter.
 

But I repeat the question: how would ~you~ handle the situation I proposed? 
What's the formula to get a properly exposed shot with a broken 283 and a 
K1000, subject distance 11.5 feet? 

Offhand,  I forget the guide number of the 283, mine blew up years ago, 
however, one would divide the distance into the guide number to get the 
f-stop.

Cheers, Mike.
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Re: The Pug World

2001-12-01 Thread Shel Belinkoff

The PUG has a synchronicity theme a couple of times a year.  I don't
see the point to it, in and of itself, although the photos are usually
of interest.  If you really want to see what the world looks like at a
given time, here's one option:

http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/ap001127.html 

 Dave B. wrote:
 
  With  the list members truly covering the 4 corners of the
  world)its very interesting to see what the planet looks
  like at the same time(well a 2 hour window)

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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Re: Computer Upgrade

2001-12-01 Thread Len Paris

- Original Message -
From: Gary L. Murphy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Computer Upgrade


 On Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:57:14 +1100, Anthony Farr wrote:

 That would be P-IV.  There should be no Arabic numerals mixed
into Roman
 numerals, after all the Romans didn't use Arabic numerals.
Earlier
 Pentiums were P-I, P-II and P-III.  Here endeth my pedantry
for today.

 Maybe, but if you will look at the Intel logo for the P4, it
is indeed, a 4, not IV  :-)

 Okay, I'm off the soapbox. g

 Later,
 Gary

Yes it is a 4 but that does not make P1V any more correct.

Len
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Re: AF360FTZ - First Impressions

2001-12-01 Thread Mark Cassino

HI Max -

I not familiar with battery boosters, so I can't comment on the first 
point. The AF360 uses 4 AA batteries, but the battery compartment is 
different than the AF500 in that it take 3 batteries in a row with #4 off 
to one side.

In terms of cables - though the AF360 has a 5th pin (that is retracted when 
the flash is off mount) it still uses the FP5 cord and adapters that the 
other Pentax digital flashes use.  It does not have a socket for the cord 
to plug into directly, unlike the AF500 or AF400.

- MCC


At 08:29 PM 11/29/01 +1300, you wrote:
Mark Cassino wrote:
  but here's some first impressions:

Mark,
Thanks for that.

Can you confirm that it has the same 6 volt battery booster capability, and
cable fitting, the same as the 500 FTZ's?

Max
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- - - - - - - - - -
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Kalamazoo, MI
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- - - - - - - - - -
Photos:
http://www.markcassino.com
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ME Super - Black

2001-12-01 Thread Gary L. Murphy

I am having to sell the below MUCH loved setup due to financial situations. Please 
reply OFF-List to, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] if interested.

Black ME Super - No brassing. The only fault is that the hotshoe does not work. 
However, the PC socket 
works fine

Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7 - Like New condition

Pentax ME-II Winder - Works perfectly and looks the same

Vivitar 283 - Complete with manual, SB-4 power adapter, VP-1 variable control adapter 
in excellent 
condition.

I would really prefer to sell as a package. $350.00 plus shipping and insurance.

I accept PayPal, cashiers checks, or money orders.



Thanks,
Gary
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OT: Zeiss lenses for Pentax

2001-12-01 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1300692156

Interesting.
I've not seen one of these before.
Anyone else using it/them?  Reports?

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
  Edith Keiler must die.
  -- Spock, 1930
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Re: flash stuff

2001-12-01 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 12/1/01 11:34:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Well, now we have wireless P-TTL that can fire one or more flashes 
 strategically located and utilize TTL.  

The assumption being everyone (who can afford it) will own a P-TTL 
camera/flash. I only engage in this exercise about flash to see what people 
are doing and shooting. 
Remember, PDML or any camera list members may own 4-5 flashes of various 
types while our friend Joe (Six-pack) doesn't own any, unless we count the 
tiny built-in pip-squeak on his PS.

As for (manual) studio flash: I'd venture that without their light meters, 
most studio shooters don't know diddly about shooting manual flash, which is, 
of course, what they do, but with light and color meters.

Mafud
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Re[2]: Illegal Street Photography?

2001-12-01 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 12/1/01 2:06:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

 The seatbelt would have not made any difference, IMHO.
 
Of course it mattered. The bodyguard sitting in front of her was wearing a 
seat-belt. Though he suffered grievous injuries about the head, chest and 
face, he is alive and working at his craft. 
Wearing a seat belt, Di might have only suffered bruising and to a lesser 
degree than the bodyguard. 
Without a seat belt, her 110 pound body became an 85mph missile slamming into 
an immovable object. Someone more brilliant that me should do the math but 
that much soft tissue hitting a stationary object at 85mph had to be 
generating tons of force on impact. 
Death was instantaneous and guaranteed.

Mafud
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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ME Super - Black

2001-12-01 Thread Gary L. Murphy

I am having to sell the below MUCH loved setup due to financial situations. Please 
reply OFF-List to, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] if interested.

Black ME Super - No brassing. The only fault is that the hotshoe does not work. 
However, the PC socket 
works fine

Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7 - Like New condition

Pentax ME-II Winder - Works perfectly and looks the same

Vivitar 283 - Complete with manual, SB-4 power adapter, VP-1 variable control adapter 
in excellent 
condition.

I would really prefer to sell as a package. $350.00 plus shipping and insurance.

I accept PayPal, cashiers checks, or money orders.



Thanks,
Gary
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Re: shooting holiday lights

2001-12-01 Thread Harry Baughman

i have the pz1p broucher in front of me and it says the spot meter
reads 2.5% of the scene.
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From: John Mustarde [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: shooting holiday lights
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 11:12:19 -0600
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On Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:21:44 -0800, you wrote:

Does your camera have a 1-degree spot meter, John?

No. It's the PZ1p, which spot meters a larger percentage. The manual
doesn't specify, but I seem to recall the PZ1p spot meter is at least
4 degree and possibly 6. With the 50mm lens I had on the camera, the
spot meter circle covered a fairly large area.

It's really simple to meter lights.  You point the meter at the light
source, the reading will put the source at mid grey. Then open up one,
two or three stops, depending on the effect you want. 

Thanks for the nice, simple explanation. I've not heard anyone state
it better.

My spot metering has been limited to one pretty specific type of
photography. I use it with lenses 300mm and longer while trying to
photograph birds and other small wildlife at a distance of maybe
thirty feet or less. I use spot-metering to help avoid exposure errors
that Matrix or Center Weight or the different reflectivity values of
different colors would allow to occur in any sort of Auto mode.

I choose an area where the light is the same as the light falling on
my potential subject, spot meter a green or blue or some other section
known to be close to 18% gray, lock in my Tv/Av, then keep that
setting as long as the light at that area does not change
significantly.

This prevents underexposure of the subject, would happen if I were in
Auto mode and the subject flew out of the bush and across the sky, or
across an area with a significantly lighter background or some sort of
backlighting. My method assumes, of course, that I prefer a proper
exposure on the subject and don't mind blowing out the background
highlights, and that the general diffuse light falling on the subject
remains the same as it moves around my selected area.

Thanks for the nice list of reflectivity percentages. I'll remember
it. I'll stick a long lens on and spot meter some solid colors just to
see how my PZ1p meters various colors, then compare my results to the
list.

Spot metering is, as you said, not hard, but it is different - and the
brain work involved is not always second nature to me.

--
John Mustarde
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Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-01 Thread Richard Seaman

Artur,

I think it is a problem if the camera shoots at, say, 1/30th, because at 
that speed the ambient light will affect the final photo, almost regardless 
of what aperture I set.  It's quite possible to have a situation where there 
isn't enough light to shoot at 1/500th, which means I have to use flash, but 
there's too much ambient light to shoot at 1/30th, because I would have 
severe camera shake.  I have this problem even when the flash sync is 
correctly set to 1/100th.

I do usually drag a tripod with me, but my subject matter is usually too 
dynamic to allow me to make much use of it, which is why I do most of my 
shooting handheld.

Richard.

home page:  www.richard-seaman.com

- - Original Message -


 Thanks for this idea, but actually, I was using a Tokina 150-500mm A
lens, at the 500mm end

Come on:) With the focal length of 500 mm it actually doesn't matter if the 
camera chooses to shoot at 1/100, 1/60 or 1/30 - in terms of sharpness of 
one's pics, of course. You should use a tripod/monopod anyway... But it DOES 
affect balance between the flash light and the ambient light, especially in 
case of slower films...

Greetz
Artur



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Re: Odp: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-01 Thread Chris Brogden

On Sat, 1 Dec 2001, Artur Ledóchowski wrote:

 AFAIK, the flash freezes movement, no matter what the shutter speed is
 set. As long, as the shutter speed is set to a medium value (1/30 -
 1/60) and the photographer uses a standard lens or standard zoom (
 like 35-80 or so), there is no problem getting sharp pics...

Ah, but there is.  Subject blur can show up even when the flash is
used; it depends on the ratio between ambient light and flash.  A touch of
fill flash is not necessarily enough to freeze all movement if the shutter
speed is in the 1/15-1/60 range.  It's not bad if you can hold the camera
steady, but not everyone can.  I've seen some bad shots taken with the
MZ-7 lately because the user didn't have steady hands, and the ambient
exposure at 1/30 or 1/45 resulted in some fuzzy pics, even with the
built-in flash used.

chris
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Re: Pushing black and white film

2001-12-01 Thread Ken Archer

I will check Monday morning with the Camera Exchange here in San 
Antonio and see about sizes and cost and get back to you.  I need to 
pick up some for myself as well.

Ken

On Saturday 01 December 2001 14:40, you wrote:
 Just a brief update on my push processing test. My local pro
 shop has informed me that there is no Canadian distributor for
 Acufine/Diafine developer. If one of the Americans on the list
 would like to have the pleasure of shipping some white powder
 internationally, I would be much appreciative.
 Please respond privately, I will reimburse all costs.
 Thanks
 William Robb

-- 
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
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Re: Re: shooting holiday lights

2001-12-01 Thread David Brooks

Thanks Tom and Shel.Its my next purchase

Dave
 Begin Original Message 
 From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 07:23:48 -0800
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: shooting holiday lights

It's also available on line here:

http://www.blackrabbit.com/kodak.htm

You might also want to browse through the site as there are a few other
very well-regarded books on photography there.  Meehan's guide to
filters is one that is quite worthwhile:
http://www.blackrabbit.com/photo7.htm

Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
 
 Dave, any bookstore should be able to get it for you. I got my current copy
 from a local camera store.
 
 It is called:
 Kodak Pocket Photoguide. fourth edition. 2001.
 Publication AR-21.
 ISBN 0-07985-807-9
 $14.95 US
 $21.95 Can
 
 Published under license by :
 Silver Pixel Press
 21 Jet View Drive
 Rochester, NY 14624 USA
 http://www.silverpixelpress.com

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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 End Original Message 



Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

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Exposure Difference: SMC-A 50/2.0, SMC-M 135/3.5, SMC-M 200/4

2001-12-01 Thread Brent Hutto

I wanted to see how sharp a picture my ZX-M could take with my 
three lenses. I have a 50mm f/2.0 SMC-A, a 135mm f/3.5 SMC-M 
and a 200mm f/4.0 SMC-M. I used Elite Chrome 200, mounted the 
camera on a tripod and shot a section of brick wall with each lens. 
They were all of the same section of wall so the distances were 
approximately 4 feet, 10 feet and 15 feet respectively. I set the 
aperture to f/8 and let the meter determine shutter speed, which 
showed in the viewfinder as 1/15 second.

The good news is that all the pictures were sharp from edge to edge 
and in the corners. Also, I bracketed focus just a small nudge too 
shallow and a small nudge too deep on each shot and the slides with 
the correct focus was the sharpest, although the differences were 
pretty small and in some cases indistinguishable (since I was at f/8, 
I suppose).

The bad news is that the exposures were not the same. The shot at 
50mm was a perfectly exposed slide. The shot at 135mm was just a 
tiny bit darker, barely perceptible. The shot at 200mm was noticably 
darker than the other two. Now I know that my SMC-A lens let the 
camera use matrix metering on the 50mm shot. But both the 135mm 
and 200mm ones used the center-weighted metering since they are 
pre-A lenses, right?

If I weren't comparing the 50mm and 135mm slides side by side on 
a light table they would each look well exposed but the 200mm one 
is not a well-exposed slide, it looks dark. The 135mm and 200mm 
lenses were purchased used through KEH and the 200mm one was 
a bargain that has no marks on the glass but you can tell it's been 
around the block a time or two exterior-appearance-wise. So is it 
possible that its aperture setting is off by a half or two-thirds of a 
stop? How should I try to test that further?
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Re:Cotty's Pentax Mods December update posted...

2001-12-01 Thread wendy beard

At 19:36 1-12-2001 -0500, you wrote:
From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Cotty's Pentax Mods December update posted...

 Very interesting, Richard! I think I may have caught one small error--in
 America thumb tack and push-pin are two different things--the thumb tack
 a short tack with a flat, circular metal head, and the push-pin a short tack
 with a molded plastic head that is possible to get a grip on between thumb
 and forefinger. We call the flat metal ones thumb tacks too.

Sorry, I've not had a chance to check out the  linguistics web site yet
(just git in from a kid's Christmas party). In UK the above thumb tack is
known as a 'drawing pin'. Please don't ask me why...

Cotty

It's because it's for pinning drawings up, of course!

(honest!)
Wendy

---
Wendy  Paul Beard
Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-01 Thread wendy beard

At 19:36 1-12-2001 -0500, you wrote:
From: Richard Seaman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

 Of course, 1/60th sucks as a flash sync speed

Me and my MX have never been particularly bothered by it.
Then again, I don't use flash that often anyway. The thing uses 4xAA 
batteries and somebody's usually nicked them for their gameboy or whatever.

Wendy

---
Wendy  Paul Beard
Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: developing Leonid shots

2001-12-01 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: John Mustarde Subject: Re: developing Leonid shots


 On Fri, 30 Nov 2001 17:25:06 -0600, you wrote:

 Unfortunately, often the entire film is clear space, with no
 visible frame delineation. This happens a lot with pictures
such
 as meteor showers, fireworks and theatre/ concerts. We just
give
 the film back to the custome uncut, hand them sissors and
 sleeving and let them do it themselves on the light table.


 So if the photographer shot the first frame with something
clearly
 visible, could one measure and manually cut the succeeding
frames
 fairly accurately?

In theory, yes, in all likelyhood, no. If the first and 5th
frames were sufficiently exposed to show frame edges, in
practice, yes, providing your camera actually advances the film
the ISO standard distance (I believe this is 38.5mm, but I could
be wrong).
William Robb
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Re: Spotted on eBay

2001-12-01 Thread John Glover

Probably the best way to do it, but I was using eBay's iPix service and it 
automatically uploads the pictures for you, so there was no URL for my pictures, they 
were tied to my auction.  I was just trying to get everything listed by this weekend 
as I'm out of town next weekend and I wanted to get this wrapped up before I left.

And yes, thanks for the publicity...the check is in the mail. I sent it via 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]:)

John

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: Spotted on eBay


 
 Probably best to put the url so at least it *looks* like you tried to upload 
 them. Hey, think of all the free publicity Cotty, Mark, and I have generated 
 for you. 
 
 That'll be $20, please
 
 Kind regards from sunny Brighton
 
 Peter
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Re: Dec PUG comments

2001-12-01 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Bob Sullivan
Subject: Dec PUG comments



 William Robb - Berries - Very vibrant colors and great
contrast between the
 blue berries and the red stems.  What kind of Ivy is that?

Thanks Bob, my wife says that is a Virginia Creeper. Its pretty
vibrant, though not quite as bright as the picture suggests.
Royal 200 is a pretty over saturated film.
William Robb
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Re: shooting holiday lights

2001-12-01 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 12/1/01 8:30:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
  
  Dave, any bookstore should be able to get it for you. I got my current 
 copy
  from a local camera store.
  
  It is called:
  Kodak Pocket Photoguide. fourth edition. 2001.
  Publication AR-21.
  ISBN 0-07985-807-9
  $14.95 US
  $21.95 Can
 

I'm wondering when the guide went on sale. Through 1997, it was a part of the 
literature my KODAK freely dealer passed out?   

Mafud
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Re: My PUG Picks

2001-12-01 Thread Jon Hope

At 04:43 1/12/01, you wrote:

My fav's this month are in no particular order:

Byford Trials by Jon Hope, Australia
http://pug.komkon.org/01dec/trial.html
It seems a number of Aussies were up early on a Sunday morning with b/w
film.

There did seem to be a few of us out with b+w film that particular Sunday. 
I had a look in my cameras this morning and found both are loaded with Fuji 
Press 800. C'est La Vie.

Cheers




Jon

Relax! Take life as it comes, you can't chase the sun, you can't race the wind
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Re: Viruses Worms Everywhere

2001-12-01 Thread dave o'brien

On Fri, 30 Nov 2001, Anthony Farr wrote:

 I've seen this kind of address on some spam e-mails, and I've read that
 they are sent directly into your mail reader while online, rather than
 being downloaded from your ISP's mail server.  That's why they have the
 strange address details.  Just what I read but as I have no effing idea
 how email works I'd probably believe anything I read :)

It's the Badtrans virus.  More details available from any anti-virus site.

It comes with an executable program which pretends to be a Word document 
and does something to the registry.

dave
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Re: Spotted on eBay

2001-12-01 Thread dave o'brien

On Fri, 30 Nov 2001, Mark Roberts wrote:

 And what, exactly, is that particular lazy person selling?
 Tokina makes a 28-70/2.6-2.8 as well as a 28-80/2.8... 
 but they don't make a 28-70/2.8 

Yes they do - I'm holding on in my hand right now.  It's an ok lens, 
usually available quite cheaply for about 20-30% of the cost of the Pentax 
FA* 28-70.  It's a very fast auto-focusing lens as the range from 
close-focus to infinity is only about 90 degrees of rotation.

dave
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Re: flash stuff

2001-12-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Well, I know all about guide numbers, but what happens if the battery in my
calculator goes dead?

--graywolf



- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: flash stuff


 In a message dated 12/1/01 11:34:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


  Well, now we have wireless P-TTL that can fire one or more flashes
  strategically located and utilize TTL.

 The assumption being everyone (who can afford it) will own a P-TTL
 camera/flash. I only engage in this exercise about flash to see what
people
 are doing and shooting.
 Remember, PDML or any camera list members may own 4-5 flashes of various
 types while our friend Joe (Six-pack) doesn't own any, unless we count
the
 tiny built-in pip-squeak on his PS.

 As for (manual) studio flash: I'd venture that without their light meters,
 most studio shooters don't know diddly about shooting manual flash, which
is,
 of course, what they do, but with light and color meters.

 Mafud
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Re[2]: Illegal Street Photography?

2001-12-01 Thread dave o'brien

On Sat, 1 Dec 2001, Cotty wrote:

 The lack of a seat belt killed Lady Di, not the driver or the Paparazzi.
 
 The seatbelt would have not made any difference, IMHO.

Well, her bodyguard survived and he was wearing a seatbelt...  he was the 
only one who survived and the only one wearing a seatbelt.

dave
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Re: flash stuff

2001-12-01 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Tom Rittenhouse
Subject: Re: flash stuff


 Well, I know all about guide numbers, but what happens if the
battery in my
 calculator goes dead?

Really, Tom, you don't carry a slide rule?
WW
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Good deal on PZ-1p, lens, and flash....

2001-12-01 Thread Mark Erickson

Here's an ad for a Pentax PZ-1p, 28-70 power zoom lens, 
AF500FTZ flash, and off-camera cable system.  Seems
like a good deal at $430 US.

http://www.photo.net/gc/view-one?classified_ad_id=456831

--Mark
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Re: flash stuff

2001-12-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

No, and I wear mittens, so I can only count to four.

--graywolf



- Original Message - 
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 12:46 AM
Subject: Re: flash stuff


 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Rittenhouse
 Subject: Re: flash stuff
 
 
  Well, I know all about guide numbers, but what happens if the
 battery in my
  calculator goes dead?
 
 Really, Tom, you don't carry a slide rule?
 WW
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Re: flash stuff

2001-12-01 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Tom Rittenhouse
Subject: Re: flash stuff


 No, and I wear mittens, so I can only count to four.

If you put some  mitten prints in the snow, you can count
higher.
Just a thought
William Robb
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Re: flash stuff

2001-12-01 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 12/2/01 12:02:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Well, I know all about guide numbers, but what happens if the battery in my
 calculator goes dead?
 
 --graywolf
 

It would be just your luck your pen ran out of ink right about then or your 
pencil broke or the only paper around was wet or there was no wet sand around 
or
 
Mafud
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Re: exposure comp question

2001-12-01 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: exposure comp question


 i read a nice piece on metering light in a recent outdoor
photography
 magazine.  the thurst of the article was that to fully rely
upon light
 meters, was to average the light to an acceptable 18% gray
scale.

A good, predictable light meter looks at everything, no matter
what colour or intensity as 18% gray.
Very few meters actually do this. The Zone VI modified Pentax
Spot Meter (on topic content) is the only meter I am aware of
that is actually reliably accurate.

 the suggestion was to use exposure compensation to move away
from this
 averaging effect of light meters  suggested that
photographers make
 decisions about the use of light rather than let their light
meters make
 those decisions.

This is a good bit of advice. Blind faith in technology leads to
bad experiences.

 using colors as an example, the author stated that white
needed actually +2
 stops of light to get what we think of as white (rather than
the averaged
 18% gray).  he also suggested pink, yellow, lime, sky blue,
lavendar and tan
 needed +1 stop over the meter.

Harrum. Well, I suppose if all you shoot is slide film, +2
stops might work for white. It will certainly lead to a weak
colour negative, and a definitely underexposed black and white
negative; of this I am sure.
What shade of pink, yellow, lime, sky blue, lavendar and tan was
he referring to?

I feel a rant coming on..

Might have to open another bottle of wine for this one..
OK, Here we go:
If you don't know haw YOUR meter will react to various colours
and intensities, you really have no idea about what sort of
exposures you are getting.
You don't know if you are optimizing the films abilities to
record the subject.
It is quite amusing, actually. We all meter carefully, that
small spot that we have decided is the key element of our
photograph, and if we are clever, we assign to it a Zone.
I am guilty of this myself, to be sure. The brightest part of a
cloud that I can still barely see detail in is Zone VIII. That
is what I base my meter reading on.
Other people use Zone 2 or 3.
Neither is right, or wrong. I find I can decide what is
brightest easier than what is darkest is all.
However, that is only part of it. That is called exposure range.
Do you know if your meter is truly linear?
It may read EV 6 correctly, but how does it do with EV 16?
What about if the colour isn't actually a permutation of gray?
What if it is green?
Or blue?
What if it is blue, and you want to use a red filter?
And what does your film think of all this?
Is it colour and exposure linear?

Have you tested all this?

No?

Harrummm!!!

Neither have I.

Here is the thing:
If you are shooting negative film, when in doubt, open up
another stop.
And learn from it.
If you are shooting chrome, and you are unsure, stop down a
third stop.
And pray.

Or. go out and see what your equipment, with the film you shoot,
with the lab you use, and the way they like to print, does with
a picture. If ypu shoot slides, it is easier, but harder as
well. Easier to see what you have done wrong, harder to make it
better.

And if you shoot black and white, and process it yourself, well
there is no hope for you at all.

I don't know of any black and white guys who are satisfied that
they are getting as much out of their film as they can.

 my question is:

You had a question???VBG

 how do i achieve these goals using my exposure compensation?

Depends on the camera, some use a dial.

 my pentax zx-m has an exp comp ring.  if i want white and
desire +2 stops of
 light,

 -do i turn the ring to +2 to add 2 stops?

This seems logical. But do you truly want +2 stops? o you want
more? Or less? And how have you determined this? Is it a guess?
Or intuition (an educated guess)? Or is it based on a solid
knowledge of how your film/meter/eye integrate?

 or

 -do i turn the ring to -2 to compensate for the metering and
effectively add
 2 stops?

Wrong. + adds light. - subtracts light.
Light works just like numbers. This is why we speak of light in
terms of numbers.
Except like works like logarithms.
Don't you wish you had paid more attention in school now?


 thanks in advance to any who care to share their thoughts,
opinions or
 experience.

Are you sure about that?

 be well

I'm fine now. I will surely not be in the morning though,

William Robb
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Re: OT OT OT

2001-12-01 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 12/1/01 10:59:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 It was guaranteed, but it wasn't instantaneous. She was talking to some of
 her rescuers and was still alive when she reached the hospital. There was
 just nothing that could be done, is all. So you might say she was doomed to
 die from the moment of impact.
 
 --Mike
 

Sorry Mike, she never talked to anyone. More urban rumors. We've all heard 
she asked about her children or talked to the ambulance attendants or said: 
tell me-mums I love her... 
Didn't happen. She died on impact, arteries torn from her heart. She was 
~not~ alive as people tried to get her out. The only one alive (or concious) 
was the bodyguard; driver, Dodi and Di, all dead. 

What the Paparzzi did (or not) had nothing to do with her death. She died 
only because she hit the back of the front seat at 85mph.


Mafud
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need help with vivitar flash!

2001-12-01 Thread Geordie

Hello,

I was wondering if anynone might be able to help me with my flash.

I bought a Vivitar thyrisistor 2800 flash awhile back, and I don't have
instructions for it, and I conveniently forgot what its functions are.

On the front of the flash there is a three position switch, where the three
choices are: Blue Dot, M, Red Dot.

On the back there are red and blue lines pointing to certain apertures on
the flash exposure chart.

I'm a bit confused on how to use the functions, and until I drag my butt
down to the used camera shop to find an instruction manual, I was hoping
someone might be able to enlighten me?

Any help would be great!

thanks

geordie
victoria, bc
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Re: OT OT OT

2001-12-01 Thread William Robb

Sorry Bob.
- Original Message -
From: Mafud
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 1:11 AM
Subject: Re: OT OT OT




 What the Paparzzi did (or not) had nothing to do with her
death. She died
 only because she hit the back of the front seat at 85mph.

Why was she in that particular situation?

Answer carefully, because why she was in a car going 85mph
through a tunnel in Paris is very germaine to why she died.
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Re: OT OT OT

2001-12-01 Thread Jon Hope

At 15:28 2/12/01, you wrote:
Sorry Bob.
- Original Message -
From: Mafud
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 1:11 AM
Subject: Re: OT OT OT



 
  What the Paparzzi did (or not) had nothing to do with her
death. She died
  only because she hit the back of the front seat at 85mph.

Why was she in that particular situation?

That one is easy. She hit the seat in front of her because she wasn't 
wearing a seat belt.


Answer carefully, because why she was in a car going 85mph
through a tunnel in Paris is very germaine to why she died.

Different question.

I'm afraid I am of the opinion that they got their just deserts. They alone 
decided on the course of action that cost them their lives.

The same argument (as blaming the paparazzi for chasing them) is used here 
regarding police chasing stolen vehicles. The argument goes that if the 
police didn't chase the stolen cars then the people driving the stolen cars 
wouldn't do stupid and highly dangerous things like drive on the wrong side 
of the freeway, usually at night sans head lights. It is always those that 
decide upon a course of action that are responsible for the outcome of 
those actions.

In the case of a car crashing into a tunnel at 140 kph, the only people 
influencing the driver were the occupants of the car. The resposibilty for 
the car being driven into a tunnel at 140 kph resides with the driver, and 
anyone telling him to drive at that speed.

Cheers


Jon

Relax! Take life as it comes, you can't chase the sun, you can't race the wind
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