Re: Please don't snipe me

2002-05-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, May 30, 2002, at 01:00  AM, Chris Brogden wrote:

> Please... the hockey season officially ended on Tuesday night when the
> Leafs lost.

...and as much as we're bitter about losing to the 'Canes, we'd like to 
see them whup the Red Wings or the Avs.  Having attended a Leafs game in 
Raleigh, I gotta say that 'Canes fans rock.  Now, cheerleaders and Ric 
Flair at a hockey game, that messed me up a little...

-Aaron
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Re: The Mounting Carnage

2002-05-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Wednesday, May 29, 2002, at 11:33  PM, Stan Halpin wrote:

> Tom - does this settle the on-again off-again discussion of what it 
> means to
> be a professional? One who bleeds for their art?

Bleeding for one's art makes one an artist, silly.  And a professional 
artist is also known as a sell-out.  ;)

-Aaron

stirring it up right before he unsubscribes for 10 days
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Re: Re: Re: 645 direction

2002-05-30 Thread David Brooks

Doh.Thanks Jeff.I'm still thinking 35mm style
here.I best look at the pictures again.

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: "Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thu, 30 May 2002 08:34:57 -0400
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Re: 645 direction


Hi Dave,
The 6 cm portion is the width of the film, which is constant.
The 4.5, 6, 7, 9, is recorded in the lenght of the film.
You get 15 or 16 frames at 4.5, 12 frames at 6, 10 frames at 7, and 8 
frames
at 9.
For the camera to be able to give you a landscape in 6x4.5 it has to 
pull
the film from top to bottom.
The camera I just purchased Fuji GS645, pulls the film right to left, 
and I
get 6x4.5 portrait format negs.

Jeff

- Original Message -
 From: "David Brooks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: Re: 645 direction


> Thanks Stan.This is were i was getting confused.If the
> 6cm side runs horizontal and the 4.5cm runs vertical,
> as in 35mm format,how does it come up
> with the extra 3 frames?
>
> Dave
>  Begin Original Message 
>
> From: Stan Halpin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> .
>
> -15 shots on 120, 30 on 220. The newer 645N and 645Nii are a bit 
more
> clever
> and get another shot or two from each roll.
>
> Stan
>
> > From: "David Brooks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:14:16 -0400
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: 645 direction
> >
> > If I remember some of the 645 posts, on a roll of
> > 120, you get more than 12 pictures as in 6x6
> > format.I believe the 645 gets 15 or 16.I take
> > it from this that the 6cm side runs portrait and
> > the 4.5cm side runs landscape.
> > If so do the 645 owners shoot the camera mostly in vertical
> > mode or horizontal.
> >
> > Dave(saving up for a camera,but which?)Brooks
> >
> >
> > Pentax User
> > Stouffville Ontario Canada
> > http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/
> > http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
> > Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: 
http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
> > -
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>
>  End Original Message 
>
>
>
>
> Pentax User
> Stouffville Ontario Canada
> http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/
> http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
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Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/
http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
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Re: Re: The Mounting Carnage

2002-05-30 Thread David Brooks

Will someone be minding the store wilst away??

Dave
 Begin Original Message 

From: Aaron Reynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
-Aaron

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http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
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Re: Anyone ever made their own light box?

2002-05-30 Thread gfen

On Wed, 29 May 2002, Scott Nelson wrote:
> I'm thinking of buying some colour corrected light bulbs and making my own
> light box out of wood ~11"x14".  Has anyone done this.  I'd appreciate any
> tips.  Please share your experiences / triumphs / disasters with me.  I
> would guess that the critcal issues are:

My friend did this, actually. Then he gave it to me.

He took a pair of 18" floursecent tubes and mounted them inside a ply wood
box, painted white on the inside. He then used a lens from an overhead
light for the surface.

He used the generic cool white bulbs, I would've used a pair of Chroma 50
bulbs, myself. I haven't replaced them cause he took the lens with him,
and I haven't bought a ne wone yet. :)

I should preface the rest of these comments by saying I've never owned or
used a real light box.

> achieving uniform light diffusion

Not too good in his. I think he made it TOO big, and thus there's too much
space between the bulbs. Larger bulbs wouldn't have helped, because it
would still be too wide. A third tube inside mine would help, I think.

So, again, don't make it TOO big.

> maintaining colour balance

I would think a pair of Chroma 50, or any daylight balanced, tubes would
work. Chroma 50 is GE's daylight bulb, its the same ething you would get
if you bought a VitaLight at a petstore. These bulbs are balanced to
represent the same colour spectrum as natural sunlight, and are used in
the reptile trade to simulate sunlight so our captive herps can synthesize
vitamins.

> ventilation / cooling

The two 18" tubes barely heat up, at all. Floursecent tubes are
surprisingly low heat, but it wouldn't be too tough to cut a hole in the
side for a fan, if you felt the need.

Compact flourescents provide even more light, at less heat. HO and VHO
lights provide more light but with more heat. You wouldn't want these.

-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 "The destructive character is cheerful."  - Walter Benjamin
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Re: The Mounting Carnage

2002-05-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, May 30, 2002, at 10:43  AM, David Brooks wrote:

> Will someone be minding the store wilst away??

Yeah, but don't expect to get anything back fast.

-Aaron
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Re: FS: 280T and "Duo-Sync" TTL Cord

2002-05-30 Thread William Kane

Nick,

   Do you still have the 280T?  I may be interested.

IL Bill

Nick Wright wrote:
> 
> I have for sale the following.
> 
> 1) "Duo-Sync" TTL Cord. Will maintain TTL connection between your Pentax
> camera and older style (ie- 280T) flashes. Works fine. Looks okay; marks
> where the flash's thumbwheel locked down upon it; and also where it mounted
> to the camera's hotshoe. Though the cord's hotshoes are not what I would
> describe as a "tight fit," the flash has never come loose from it while in
> use. $15 shipped within the U.S. firm.
> 
> 2) Pentax AF 280T flash. Well used. The flash fires and the photos come out
> well exposed (on a pz1p). The "latch" to hold the battery door closed is
> cracked and therefore needs help (ie- tape, etc) if you're using batteries
> to power the flash (I always used a Quantum battery). And the hotfoot is
> cracked. I would still be using this flash except I cannot find a
> replacement foot for it. Save for the battery door and foot, the unit is in
> good condition. There are velcro squares attached to it that held the
> battery door shut while using a Quantum. And there is a "bracket" mounted to
> the top of the flash head used to hold a Stofen Omni-Bounce unit in place on
> this model. The Stofen is included with the purchase. A manual (not
> photocopy) for the flash will be included as well if I can find it. ;) $50
> shipped within the U.S. flexible.
> 
> PayPal is preferred, MO's accepted. For shipping outside the U.S. please
> contact me off-list. Photographs of the items are available upon request.
> 
> Nick Wright
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Anyone ever made their own light box?

2002-05-30 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

Daring sacriledge here, unless you are doing your own
pre-press analysis for 4-color litho reproduction any
diffused light source will do just fine for viewing
slides. Face it - we are mostly interested in checking
for sharpness and magnifying the tiny 35mm miniature
format images so we can see what is actually there w/o
setting up a projector & screen.

I just use one of those "under the cabinet mount" kitchen
flourescent units - straight from the store. Much cheaper
than "specialized" light boxes sold to aspiring photogs.

If part of your usage will be showing to high-end clientele,
perhaps one of the spiffy "pro-photog" portable units might
make sense. That said, I usually just bring my projector and 
shoot 'em onto a wall at about 24x36inches. A nicely flat-
mounted (glued down to something stiff) piece of white foamcore
makes for a better screen than a wall, but is a bit more of a 
nuisance to haul around and set up and most folks I deal with
are sufficiently impressed w/ wall projection.

that heretic from the hinterlands,Bill

-
Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Daniel J. Matyola
Subject: Re: OT World Cup Offer


...The lure of the world cup
> seems to be each that nation gets to cheer blindly for their
national team
> and hate the other countries' teams..

Sort of like when American hockey fans boo the Canadian national
anthem before the playoff games??

William Robb
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Re: Asahi Auto Bellows M

2002-05-30 Thread Mike Y

Ended up crossing the street and finding an Albinar bellows unit, in much
better shape, for $60 euro's...


Thanks to all for the information, I'm off to go play with the new toy...

- Original Message -
From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: Asahi Auto Bellows M


> - Original Message -
> From: Mike Y
> Subject: Asahi Auto Bellows M
>
>
> > I've found I really enjoy taking macro photo's and want to
> move beyond my
> > "Star-D" 28,,/f2.8 macro lens.  While out shopping for
> extension tubes today
> > I stumbled across a well used Asahi Auto Bellows M, very
> similar to the one
> > on Boz's site, priced at 455 euro's.  Two questions:
> >
> > A).  From quick glances around usenet, this seems really
> expensive for this
> > unit.  My next stop is to search Ebay for old sales.
>
> It is expensive, methinks. I just paid Can$250 for a bellows M
> and slide copier.
> >
> > B).  For anyone who uses (used) this, how well does it work?
> Anything to
> > watch out for in a used one?
>
> Make sure the bellows are flexible, and that there are no cracks
> at the folds. Extend the bellows fully, put a body cap on the
> lens end and stick a small light bulb into the other end. Darken
> the room you are in and turn on the light. You will see pinholes
> this way. A few are not a problem, they can be sealed with black
> photo tape.
>
> There is a bit of foam rubber in the lens release to tension it.
> It is the same sort of foam as is in the LX mirror box, and has
> the same problem with drying out and getting yucky.
> Make sure the lens release operates properly and easily before
> you mount a lens to it.
> The release lever is fairly sturdy, but can be broken if
> exceesive force is applied during lens release, if the foam is
> dead. I found this out the hard way with mine, and it cost me 75
> bucks to fix, rather than being able to dismantle it myself and
> replace the foam.
>
> William Robb
>
>
>
> >
> > merci...
> >
> >
> > Mike Y.
> > -
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Re: FS: 280T and "Duo-Sync" TTL Cord

2002-05-30 Thread William Kane

Appologies to the list.  Obviously meant for private email . . .

Il Bill

William Kane wrote:
> 
> Nick,
> 
>Do you still have the 280T?  I may be interested.
> 
> IL Bill
> 
> Nick Wright wrote:
> >
> > I have for sale the following.
> >
> > 1) "Duo-Sync" TTL Cord. Will maintain TTL connection between your Pentax
> > camera and older style (ie- 280T) flashes. Works fine. Looks okay; marks
> > where the flash's thumbwheel locked down upon it; and also where it mounted
> > to the camera's hotshoe. Though the cord's hotshoes are not what I would
> > describe as a "tight fit," the flash has never come loose from it while in
> > use. $15 shipped within the U.S. firm.
> >
> > 2) Pentax AF 280T flash. Well used. The flash fires and the photos come out
> > well exposed (on a pz1p). The "latch" to hold the battery door closed is
> > cracked and therefore needs help (ie- tape, etc) if you're using batteries
> > to power the flash (I always used a Quantum battery). And the hotfoot is
> > cracked. I would still be using this flash except I cannot find a
> > replacement foot for it. Save for the battery door and foot, the unit is in
> > good condition. There are velcro squares attached to it that held the
> > battery door shut while using a Quantum. And there is a "bracket" mounted to
> > the top of the flash head used to hold a Stofen Omni-Bounce unit in place on
> > this model. The Stofen is included with the purchase. A manual (not
> > photocopy) for the flash will be included as well if I can find it. ;) $50
> > shipped within the U.S. flexible.
> >
> > PayPal is preferred, MO's accepted. For shipping outside the U.S. please
> > contact me off-list. Photographs of the items are available upon request.
> >
> > Nick Wright
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > -
> > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
> > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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Re: Please don't snipe me

2002-05-30 Thread Paul Stenquist

Cheerleaders? You gotta go to a hockey game at the Joe. Everyone's a
cheerleader, and we have octopi to boot. That's why they call it Hockeytown.
Go Wings!
Paul

Aaron Reynolds wrote:
> 
> On Thursday, May 30, 2002, at 01:00  AM, Chris Brogden wrote:
> 
> > Please... the hockey season officially ended on Tuesday night when the
> > Leafs lost.
> 
> ...and as much as we're bitter about losing to the 'Canes, we'd like to
> see them whup the Red Wings or the Avs.  Having attended a Leafs game in
> Raleigh, I gotta say that 'Canes fans rock.  Now, cheerleaders and Ric
> Flair at a hockey game, that messed me up a little...
> 
> -Aaron
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Re: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-30 Thread Ann Sanfedele

"Peifer, William [OCDUS]" wrote:

> Another posting from yesterday which hasn't shown up yet
>

(1)  Do any of you have comments on the practice of presoaking roll film
> in water (or perhaps dilute Photo-flo??) prior to the developer?  That is,
> load the roll on the reel, then immerse into a temperature-controlled
> water bath, and then tranfer to the tank.  Apparently a water presoak -- a
> minute or so, IIRC -- was favored by Saint Ansel.  The idea was that this
> would saturate/swell the emulsion, get it equilibrated to the temperature
> of the developer, and facilitate diffusion of developer into the emulsion.
>   

I always presoak  - don't time it precisely, constant agitation but gentle, in
a 5 reel tank - to saturate the film so there is less chance of an air bubble
with the developer - usually a tad less than a minute.

I say always, but I haven't done much darkroom stuff recently.  The other thing
is using microdol-x 1-3 for 15 minutes at 75 degrees - for finer grain.

annsan
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RE: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-30 Thread TM

William-
Thanks, hope to hear back from you. I'm going to send the Drive back to
KEH today and see if I can get another one in the meantime.

Taka

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of William Robb
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 8:59 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor Drive problems


Taka, I will check with my repair guy on this one. Don't discount the
possibility of an oxidized electrical connection causing the motor to
torque out under load though. Give me 18 hours to find what he says.

William Robb

- Original Message -
From: TM <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 5:26 PM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive problems


> Wouldn't poor contacts cause the motor drive to stop working 
> completely at times?
>
> I'm not able to run a single roll through the camera w/o the
motor
> drive acting funny, but it seems as though when it works, it
works
> fine and this problem never showed up when testing the motor
drive
> w/o actually winding film (empty camera).
>
> Any other suggestions? I'm going to send this one back to KEH
and see
> if I can get another one in the meantime- I want two drives as
I have
> two Super As.
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Anthony Farr

If only that were true :/

Perhaps the other regions get 4 - 6 teams into the finals, but poor Oceana
not only got only one qualifier, but that side ~then~ had to play off
against South America's highest non-qualifier which was Argentina.  So
Argentina whips Maradona into shape, he boosts the side to victory over
Australia, but soon after he is found to be (once again) full of "Bolivian
Marching Powder" (a known stimulant and performance enhancing drug) and is
(once again) booted out of the game.  Me, bitter?  No comment :/

Oceana has only twice AFAIK been represented in the World Cup, by Australia
in '74 and New Zealand sometime after that.  Every other time the rightful
qualifying nation was eliminated by another region's second chance side.
And every time this manipulation of the finals was nothing but a cynical
ploy to get a bigger audience from a region where soccer is the number one
game.

Word Cup?  Perhaps FIFA's Old Boys' Club Cup would be a better name.
Fortunately FIFA has promised to end this manipulation of the finals.  We
will see.

Regards,
Anthony Farr

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


(snip)
> 4-6 teams from each group qualified to the finals that
> start this weekend. In the total there are 32 teams in the finals
> and everybody call this the World Cup. This year World Cup
> happens in Korea and Japan. This event is seem for almost the
> entire planet but the Americans.
>
> ... and, the best team is Brazil ...
>
> Regards
>
> Alex
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FS: MZ-S + BG-10 Grip

2002-05-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

In an effort to offset some of the cost of my 67 gear (keep picking up
a lens here and there - most recent was a leaf shutter 90), I am
reluctantly going to part with one of my MZ-S's.  It is in beautiful
condition - lightly used, no frame overlap problem.  Comes with
original box, manual, all accessories/covers - everything as new.
Along with it a Battery Grip - BG-10 (most consider this as essential
to the handling of the body - I agree) in equal condition - including
it's manual and box.

B&H is asking $800 for the body and $175 for the grip.  I would like
to get $675 for the body and $125 for the grip and would prefer to
sell them as a set.  If you have interest, contact me and we can talk.

Thanks,

 Bruce Dayton
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Re: Auto 110

2002-05-30 Thread Camdir

That's not grain, my friend, that is KWALITY. Oh yes.

BTW, we have an Agfa 110 projector here. Daresay it's multivoltage, too.

Kind regards

Peter
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 30/05/02 13:40:39 GMT Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<<  know what football (soccer) is;  my son played on a team for several
 years, and I attended allo the games, like a good father.  He no longer
 watches it either.  I tried to watch swome of the televised games, but
 found it totally lacking in interest.  Something like (ice) hockey but
 slower, and withour the physical toughness.  The lure of the world cup
 seems to be each that nation gets to cheer blindly for their national team
 and hate the other countries' teams.  Just because something is popular
 (disposable cameras, eg) doesn't make it better than everything else.
  >>
I wish I had never mentioned this..

peter
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Re: Vivitar Series 1

2002-05-30 Thread Camdir

<< Subject: Re: Vivitar Series 1
 
 Hi Peter,
  The front cap for the VS1 200/3 is a metal push on.
 Steve Larson & Wiiliam Wiseman >>

Great - I knew I'd regret punting out the last one of those on 'bay.

Anyone got one? $5 here with your name on it

Peter
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

Please, you "americans"!!
You stole the name of a great sport called football (in wich you REALLY hit
a BALL with your FOOT). Applied the name to a sport where some guys in
tights try to play rugby but being not macho enough as to face the possible
damage. Called real football "soccer". Put ridiculous nicknames to the
guys-in-tights teams and call "World Cup" a league absolutely usa-only (I
know you think you are the only thing in the world, but it's not true).
Please, FOOOTBALL is FOOTBALL. What you call football is not football. It's
"man-in-tights-with-rugby-ball-and-shoulderpads-and-stupid-brand-nickname"
Real FOOTBALL is the most popular sport in the world (you know, all that
things out of your country borderlines).
Regards

AG
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Calm down, Albano 

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Please, you "americans"!!
> You stole the name of a great sport called football (in wich you REALLY hit
> a BALL with your FOOT). Applied the name to a sport where some guys in
> tights try to play rugby but being not macho enough as to face the possible
> damage. Called real football "soccer". Put ridiculous nicknames to the
> guys-in-tights teams and call "World Cup" a league absolutely usa-only (I
> know you think you are the only thing in the world, but it's not true).
> Please, FOOOTBALL is FOOTBALL. What you call football is not football. It's
> "man-in-tights-with-rugby-ball-and-shoulderpads-and-stupid-brand-nickname"
> Real FOOTBALL is the most popular sport in the world (you know, all that
> things out of your country borderlines).

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/humor/socfan.html


>  The lure of the world cup
>  seems to be each that nation 
>  gets to cheer blindly for their 
>  national team and hate the 
>  other countries' teams.  

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Most Used Body Survey Results UPDATE 8

2002-05-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

1- You must choose JUST ONE Pentax brand body of any era and format.
2- It must be the body you use most (time, quantity of shots, whatever...)
3- Again, you must choose JUST ONE.
4- Send the answers OFF-LIST, TO ME, to don't disturb list members. I'll
not count votes sent to list.

DISCLAIMER: For the "winner" category, I'll count all the variants of a
same model (ie all Spotties together), so don't start arguing "hey, you
must put all this or that together". Thanks

Winner (by now):   LX with 9 votes


Members: 47

Screwmount:
- Spotmatic F (1)

K Manual Focus:
- K 1000 (1)
- KM (1)
- KX (1)
- K2 (1)
- MX (3)
- ME Super (3)
- LX (9)
- Super Program (2)
- P 30t (1)
- ZX M (1)


K Autofocus:
- PZ 1 (1)
- Z 1p (1)
- PZ 1p (4)
- PZ 70 (1)
- MZ S (5)
- MZ 5n (2)
- ZX 5n (4)

Medium Format:
- 6x7 (3)
- 67 (1)
- 67II (1)
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Bodies Survey Results UPDATE 169

2002-05-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

Please send the messages to me directly, to not disturb other
members,thanks.
Also, I've not included 110 and digital cameras, just because I started
this way, and I didn't want to change in the middle of the way.
Also, if you already submited and want to add new items, please put clearly
in your message: this is not my first submission, so I don't put you twice
in
the total answers.
Thanks to all contributors.

TOTAL ANSWERS: 466 members
MANUAL FOCUS:

Screw Mount:
- Asahiflex IIa5
- Asahiflex IIb6
- Asahi Pentax (AP)5
- K4
- S1
- SL...8
- SV..10
- S1...3
- S1a.11
- S2...2
- S3...5
- SP500...14
- SP1000..13
- Spotmatic IIa2
- Spotmatic SP69
- Spotmatic SP II.33
- Spotmatic F.42
- Spotmatic F MD...2
- Spotmatic MD.3
- ES..18
- ES II...26
- ElectroSpotmatic.4
- H1...2
- H1a..5
- H2...6
- H3...7
- H3v..5

Bayonette:

- KM..19
- KX..46
- KX MD1
- K2..45
- K2 DMD..12
- K1000...87
- K1000 SE10
- MX.140
- ME..42
- MF-1.1
- ME SE2
- ME Super...144
- ME Super SE..4
- MV...7
- MV1..2
- MG..14
- LX.163
- Super Program...77
- Super A.49
- Program Plus18
- Program A...10
- A30004
- A3...2
- A3(date).1
- P3...8
- P3n..9
- P30..8
- P30n.1
- P30t13
- P5...8
- P50..4
- ZX M25
- MZ M15

AUTOFOCUS:

- ME F11
- SF 1.5
- SFX..4
- SF 1n8
- SFXn13
- SF 7.2
- SF 108
- PZ 121
- PZ 1 SE..2
- Z1..25
- PZ 1p...74
- Z1p.41
- Z5...2
- Z5p..1
- PZ 105
- Z 10.5
- PZ 20...13
- Z 20.5
- Z 50p2
- PZ 706
- Z 70.1
- MZ S33
- MZ 322
- ZX 511
- MZ 516
- ZX 5n...64
- MZ 5n...43
- MZ 6.1
- ZX 7.9
- MZ 7.8
- ZX 10...11
- MZ 10...14
- ZX 308
- MZ 301
- ZX 509
- MZ 50...12

MEDIUM FORMAT:
- 645.18
- 645n.4
- 645nII...1
- 6x7.19
- 67...9
- 67 II9
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Favorite Body Survey Results UPDATE 33

2002-05-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

1- You must choose JUST ONE Pentax brand body of any era and format.
2- You must have personal experience with it, no matter if you own it,
owned it, borrowed it, rented it. You must have used it (it's not a wish
list).
3- Again, you must choose JUST ONE.
4- Send the answers OFF-LIST, TO ME, to don't disturb list members. I'll
not count votes sent to list.
Regards

DISCLAIMER: For the "winner" category, I'll count all the variants of a
same model (ie all Spotties together), so don't start arguing "hey, you
must put all this or that together". Thanks



Winner by now: LX with 24 votes.

Members: 97

M42:
- Spotmatic (1)
- Spotmatic II (1)
- Spotmatic SP (2)
- Spotmatic F (1)
- SP 500 (2)
- ES (1)

K Manual Focus:
- KX (7)
- K2 (2)
- K2 DMD (2)
- K1000 SE (1)
- MX (8)
- ME (1)
- ME Super (1)
- LX (24)
- Super Program (1)
- Program A (1)

K Auto Focus:
- Z1 (1)
- Z1p (2)
- PZ1p (7)
- Z 5 (1)
- MZ S (14)
- ZX5n (3)
- MZ5n (3)

Medium Format:
- 645 (1)
- 6x7 (8)
- 67 (1)
- 67II (1)
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Favorite Film Survey Results UPDATE 50

2002-05-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

These are the conditions:
1 - You must answer off-list, right to me.
2 - You must choose your favorite emulsion (35 and 120/220 allowed. Color
and b
and w)
3 - You must choose ONLY ONE (color print OR slide OR b and w, etc).
4 - You must have personal experience with it.

WINNER by now: Tri-X with 11 votes.

Members: 112

COLOR Slide:

Kodak Kodachrome 25 (2)
Fuji Velvia (10)
Agfa RSX II 50 (1)
Kodak Kodachrome 64 (6)
Kodak Elitechrome Extra Color 100 (3)
Kodak Ektachrome 100 VS (3)
Kodak Ektachrome 100 SW (2)
Kodak Ektachrome 100 (1)
Fuji Sensia II 100 (3)
Fuji Provia 100F (9)
Kodak Kodachrome 200 (1)
Kodak Ektachrome E200 (2)
Fuji Provia 400F (1)

COLOR Print:

Konica Impressa 50 (1)
Kodak Supra 100 (1)
Kodak Royal 100 (1)
Fuji Reala 100 (3)
Agfa XRG 100 (1)
Kodak Portra 160 NC (1)
Fuji Superia 200 (1)
Agfa HDC Plus 200 (1)
Kodak Max 400 (1)
Kodak Ektapress PJ 400 (1)
Kodak Supra 400 (5)
Kodak Portra 400 NC (2)
Fuji Press 400 (1)
Fuji Superia 400 (2)
Fuji NPH 400 (1)
Kodak Portra 800 (1)
Fuji Press 800 (3)
Kodak PJC 1600 (1)

BLACK AND WHITE:

Agfapan APX 25 (2)
Agfapan APX 100 (1)
Ilford Pan F (4)
Ilford Delta 100 (4)
Kodak Plus-X (2)
Ilford FP4 Plus (3)
Agfa Scala 200x (1)
Kodak Tri-X (11)
Kodak T400 CN (2)
Kodak Porta 400 BW (1)
Fuji Neopan 400 (1)
Agfa APX 400 (1)
Ilford HP5 (1)
Ilford HP5+ (1)
Ilford XP2 (2)
Konica VX 400 (1)
Paterson Acupan 800 (1)

INFRARED:

Kodak HIE (1)
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Favorite Lens Survey Results UPDATE 59

2002-05-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

These are the conditions:
1 - You must answer off-list exclusively. On-list votes will not be
included.
2 - You must choose Your Favorite Pentax Lens. ONLY ONE. Yes, ONLY ONE.
3 - It must be original, no third-party allowed.
4 - Primes and zooms.
5 - You must specifiy: Tak, Super Tak, SMC Tak, K, M, A, F, FA, etc.
6 - You must have personal experience with it, no matter if you have it,
had it,
lost it, sold it, borrowed it, but you must have used it. If not it would
be a wish list.

First Place (11 votes): FA* 24 2

Members: 166


K 15 3.5 (2)
A 15 3.5 (3)
A 20 2.8 (1)
FA 20 2.8 (1)
K 24 2.8 (4)
A 24 2.8 (2)
FA* 24 2 (11)
K 28 3.5 (1)
K 28 3.5 Shift (1)
M 28 2.8 (1)
A 28 2 (1)
A 28 2.8 (1)
K 35 3.5 (1)
M 35 2 (1)
FA 35 2 (2)

M 40 2.8 (4)
FA 43 1.9 Limited (2)
SuperTak 50 1.4 (1)
SMC Tak 50 1.4 (3)
SMC Tak 55 1.8 (2)
K 50 1.2 (1)
K 50 1.4 (1)
M 50 1.4 (8)
M 50 1.7 (3)
M 50 4 Macro (1)
A 50 1.4 (6)
A 50 1.7 (1)
F 50 1.4 (1)
F 50 1.7 (1)
FA 50 1.4 (2)
FA 50 1.7 (1)
K 55 1.8 (2)

FA 77 1.8 Limited (4)
SMC Tak 85 1.8 (3)
SMC Tak 85 1.9 (2)
K 85 1.8 (2)
M 85 2 (2)
A* 85 1.4 (3)
FA* 85 1.4 (2)
SMC Tak 100 4 (1)
M 100 2.8 (2)
M 100 4 Dental Macro (1)
A 100 2.8 (1)
A 100 2.8 Macro (4)
F 100 2.8 (1)
F 100 2.8 Macro (3)
FA 100 2.8 Macro (5)
K 105 2.8 (2)
K 135 2.5 (1)
A* 135 1.8 (1)
A 135 2.8 (1)
Tak 200 3.5 Preset (1)
K 200 4 (1)
A* 200 2.8 (1)
A* 200 4 Macro (5)
A* 300 2.8 (2)
F* 300 4.5 (2)
FA* 300 4.5 (1)
FA* 400 5.6 (1)


FA 20-35 4 (3)
M 24-50 4 (1)
FA 24-90 3.5-4.5 (4)
FA 28-70 4 AL (1)
FA 28-80 3.5-4.7 (1)
F 35-70 3.5-4.5 Macro (3)
FA 28-105 4-5.6 powerzoom (3)
A 35-105 3.5 (8)
K 45-125 4 (1)
M 75-150 4 (3)
A 70-210 4 (2)
F 70-210 4-5.6 (1)
A 80-200 4.7-5.6 (1)
FA* 80-200 2.8 (1)


645 35 3.5 (1)
6x7 SMC 45 4 (1)
6x7 SMC Tak 55 3.5 (1)
6x7 SMC 55 4 (1)
67 165 4 LS (1)
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Gary L. Murphy

On Thu, 30 May 2002 14:21:25 -0300, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>Please, FOOOTBALL is FOOTBALL. What you call football is not football.

Sorry to burst your bubble. But it =is= football here. Since we don't =live= where you 
do, we can call it anything we like.




Later,
Gary
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RE: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Paris, Leonard

Don't hold back.  Tell us how you really feel about us "americans".

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 12:21 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT World Cup Offer


Please, you "americans"!!
You stole the name of a great sport called football (in wich you REALLY hit
a BALL with your FOOT). Applied the name to a sport where some guys in
tights try to play rugby but being not macho enough as to face the possible
damage. Called real football "soccer". Put ridiculous nicknames to the
guys-in-tights teams and call "World Cup" a league absolutely usa-only (I
know you think you are the only thing in the world, but it's not true).
Please, FOOOTBALL is FOOTBALL. What you call football is not football. It's
"man-in-tights-with-rugby-ball-and-shoulderpads-and-stupid-brand-nickname"
Real FOOTBALL is the most popular sport in the world (you know, all that
things out of your country borderlines).
Regards

AG
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 30/05/02 18:40:30 GMT Daylight Time, Albano writes:

<<  Applied the name to a sport where some guys in
 tights try to play rugby >>

LMAO

Peter
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Re: FS: MZ-S + BG-10 Grip

2002-05-30 Thread Mark Erickson

Wow!  You've really been bitten by the medium format bug!  I can't wait for 
you to try out a Linhof Technica 4x5 so I can buy some really nice Pentax 
67II gear from you!  :-) 

 --Mark 

 ---Bruce wrote---
>
> [MZ-S + BG-10 for sale] 
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

Can we assume a member of some royal Euro family?


***
From: Shel Belinkoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/humor/socfan.html 

- -- 
Shel Belinkoff 
***


--

Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

---
"Get over it."
Dr. Laura

--
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Re[2]: FS: MZ-S + BG-10 Grip

2002-05-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

Mark,

Don't even tempt me!  I'm just getting used to calling the MZ-S the
"little camera".  I can't quite imagine calling the 67II the "little
camera"   :)


Bruce



Thursday, May 30, 2002, 10:59:01 AM, you wrote:

ME> Wow!  You've really been bitten by the medium format bug!  I can't wait for 
ME> you to try out a Linhof Technica 4x5 so I can buy some really nice Pentax 
ME> 67II gear from you!  :-) 

ME>  --Mark 

ME>  ---Bruce wrote---
>>
>> [MZ-S + BG-10 for sale] 
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Re: Auto 110

2002-05-30 Thread Knut Kampe

I believe the quality problem with 110 film lies in the photolab. I noticed 
that I consistently get better results from Minox (8*11mm) than from Pentax 
110 and pocket film.

The difference between in negative size between 'Minox' and '110' is at 
least as large as 35mm vs MF -why does this not show? Actually 110 is not 
that far off from APS size, maybe factor 2. The poor grainy prints of 110 
-I also get them in the shop around the corner- are just not explained by 
the format size.

Most 110 cameras were cheap junk. The film manufacturers know this and put 
cheap film into the 110 casettes. The photolabs know this and use cheap 
processing/chemistry and the makers of printing machines for 110 know this 
and make cheap printers with poor lenses.

In Germany the Minox Specialist Photo Paarz http://paarz.net/ also develops 
and prints 110 film. They are not cheap -but you'll get much more out of 
your film. -And they will process your film to the sensitivity you actually 
exposed it (80/400 ASA) and not to what it says on the film (200 ASA).

Knut

At 13:09 30.05.02 -0400, you wrote:
>That's not grain, my friend, that is KWALITY. Oh yes.
>
>BTW, we have an Agfa 110 projector here. Daresay it's multivoltage, too.
>
>Kind regards
>
>Peter
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KEH?

2002-05-30 Thread TM

Anyone try to reach KEH today? Their phones seem to not be working.

Have they gone out of business? I just talked to them yesterday

Taka
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

Shel wrote:
Calm down, Albano 


Yes, Shel I heat up a bit. The photo of little hooligan is great!
Regards

AG
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Re: KEH?

2002-05-30 Thread Stephen Moore

TM wrote:
 
> Anyone try to reach KEH today? Their phones seem to not be working.
> 
> Have they gone out of business? I just talked to them yesterday

I talked to them just at closing time yesterday (Wednesday).
One of their sales staff called me about noon today.

Stephen Moore


__ 
"You got a Zarg in here? Are you *nuts*???
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Re: Please don't snipe me

2002-05-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, May 30, 2002, at 08:29  AM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

> Cheerleaders? You gotta go to a hockey game at the Joe. Everyone's a
> cheerleader, and we have octopi to boot. That's why they call it 
> Hockeytown.
> Go Wings!

No, we're talkin' about pom-pom shaking, skimpy outfit wearing 
cheerleaders, like for football.  It was weird, and I kept feeling sorry 
for them because they must have been so cold.

At least octopi are marine animals!

-Aaron
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RE: LX Ni-Cd Battery Pack

2002-05-30 Thread andre

Hi James,

Would you recommend a battery brand?

I have seen Vinic 250mah batteries for $2.00 each at

http://www.batterystation.com/nicads.htm

Is this a good buy?

These batteries are 14.5mm X 17.0mm.  I understand from previous 
discussion that we have to be sure they are not longer than 17.0mm 
(as are the 1/3A) to fit easily in the pack.

Andre

>I just rebuilt a pack using 300 mAh 1/3 AA NiMH cells. The results have been
>excellent. After a full charge, the pack will pull 45 to 50 rolls of film
>through the camera (including rewinds) and still not be completely
>discharged.
>
>When I was a working PJ, I liked the rebuilding with NiMH cells because I
>could do partial recharges each night w/o worrying about memory effect. Back
>then, I was rebuilding with 225 mAh 1/3 AA NiMH cells, and also had great
>results.
>
>
>
>-Original Message-
>From: Frantisek Vlcek [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 8:06 AM
>To: HUDERER Bernd
>Subject: Re: LX Ni-Cd Battery Pack
>
>
>Wednesday, May 29, 2002, 2:27:51 PM, HUDERER wrote:
>HB> Bob S. wrote:
>
>>>  I changed the cells over a year ago and just followed Rob's
>>>  parts list,
>>>  ordering Sanyo's like he used.  I got the right battery just
>>>  fine.  They are
>>>  a tight fit with little need for foam padding below them. 
>>>  Aren't the 1/3AA's
>>>  a little weak for the application?
>
>HB> I don't think so, as the capacity is the same like the original cells
>and
>HB> the current at 14,4 Volts will be low compared e.g. with the LX winder
>who
>HB> gets the power out of 4,8 Volts !
>
>Well, I think it's too weak, and the original cells were weak too -
>only 110mAh in 12 cells! Compared to Battery Grip, which holds 12
>cells at 18x the capacity!!! (modern NiMH cells are 1800mAh). I guess
>the 225mAh NiCd cells (more modern) are better if they fit. With the
>original cells the motor mustn't have lasted very long...
>
>Good light,
>Frantisek Vlcek
>-
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Re: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: TM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive A problems


Taka, Here is what my repair guy sez:
There is a gear set in the motordrive that starts to wear out.
The symptom is that as more film is advanced onto the take up
spool, and more torque is required to drive the film, the gears
start to jump teeth and fail to complete the drive cycle.
Apparently, I am the fourth person this week to ask this
question of him. Pentax Canada no longer supports the drive A,
perhaps independant shops or Pentax in another country may be
able to repair it for you.

William Robb
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Re: More newbie questions- contrast, lens obstruction, shutter?

2002-05-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: TM
Subject: More newbie questions- contrast, lens obstruction,
shutter?


> Stupid question- can shooting through a chain-link fence
> make it appear as though there are differing exposure times
> throughout the frame? I ask because I had no choice and had
> to shoot through a chain-link fence this weekend, noticed
> rather uneven contrast on a bunch of photos, not apparently
> due to the lighting or shadows, but something else.
>
> I'm trying to figure out if it is the shutter or the fence
that
> caused this. The lighter and darker portions moved around in
> different frames and different rolls of film, is this still
> indicative of a shutter problem?

Out of focus chain link can cause this.
Been there

William Robb
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Re: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: TM <
Subject: RE: Motor Drive problems

I just checked Pentax USA, they no longer support the Motor
Drive Eh! either.
If the camera does what you describe without the drive, then
likely the film advance is weak, and should be adjusted while it
still works.
I am really not sure if a flakey drive can cause what you are
having problems with or not..

William Robb



> Motor Drive update- if you recall, I have a Motor Drive A that
seems
> to be problematic.
>
> While shooting, it appeared that the drive would not
consistently
> advance the full frame, and I would have to manually wind the
frame to
> completion.
>
> After getting my photos back, I'm now not sure it is entirely
the fault
> of the drive- I have several rolls of film that stop around
frame 20 or
> 22,
> on a 24 exposure roll. The real tell-tale is that my last
three rolls
> exhibit
> multiple exposures on the very last two frames (don't know
what that's
> about)
> and my very last roll had only about 12 exposures out of 24,
the rest
> were all
> blank.
>
> Does this sound like my Super A needs a CLA, or does it still
point to
> the
> Motor Drive causing problems? I didn't see any evidence of the
sprocket
> holes
> being torn nor do I see anything hanging up inside the camera.
This is
> driving
> me nuts! Help! :-)
>
> Taka
> -
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Re: Pink Negs?

2002-05-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Paul Jones
Subject: Pink Negs?


> HI,
>
> I developed some negs last night and they came out slightly
pinkish, so i
> assumed i hadnt fixed them properly, so i mixed up some new
fixer and
> refixed them and they are still pink.
>
> The first time there were fixed for double the clearing time
in Inford Hypam
> and the second time they were fixed in Teteninal Fixer, for a
bit over
> double the clearing time.
>
> No its not a Tmax film :) its tri-x. Could the stop bath be
staining the
> negs or something?

I've seen that before. Hang the film in a sunny window for a
short while, the light will bleach the pink out, more than
likely. I think it is residual sensitizing dye.

William Robb
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Re: May PUG Review from Cotty

2002-05-30 Thread Gianfranco Irlanda

Cotty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Walking Shadow (pavement reflection)
> Gianfranco Irlanda
> Superlatives would be fruitless here. Join me in expressing
utter 
> admiration for this awesome image and its creator. Gianfranco
has taken 
> photography and stood it on its head - quite literally.
Simply: I want to 
> be able to make pictures like this! How is it possible to get
colour like 
> that out of a reflection in a dull concrete surface? Sheer
brilliance in 
> our midst and a popular and acknowledged master of the art.
Take a bow 
> and collect my pic of the month award yet again, dammit.
Bella! Ciao!

Well, Cotty... 

I'm speechless... 
Somebody could start thinking that I'm paying you for these
monthly praises! You are forcing me to keep a very high standard
in my future PUG submissions.
Thanks really much for the appreciation and for the positive
effect of your words on my ego!

Ciao!

Gianfranco


=
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Re: Anyone ever made their own light box?

2002-05-30 Thread Fernando Díaz del Castillo H.

I did just this last weekend:

1. I bought pre-cut wood in a construction outlet (35cmX10cmX0.5cm
each).
2. Small nails were good enough to put them together in less than half
an hour
with some glue to make it stronger.
3. The bottom was made of a very thin (less than 0.5 cm) piece of wood.
Same
nails and glue. First made the box, then drew the shape on the board and
cut.
4. For the lights, two fluorescent tubes in the center seem to do just
fine,
separated about 15cm from each other.
5. The glass is quite important: an opaque glass, cut by an "expert" did
the
job.

I totally agree with the "don't make it too big" comment. Four the size
you mention, maybe three tubes would be necessary.
It woks just fine! And making it was fun too.

Fernando

Scott Nelson wrote:

> I'm thinking of buying some colour corrected light bulbs and making my own
> light box out of wood ~11"x14".  Has anyone done this.  I'd appreciate any
> tips.  Please share your experiences / triumphs / disasters with me.  I
> would guess that the critcal issues are:
>
> achieving uniform light diffusion
> maintaining colour balance
> ventilation / cooling
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
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Re: Pink Negs?

2002-05-30 Thread Paul Jones

Hi,

Thanks bill, i'll give it a try and let you know how it goes.

Thanks,
Paul
- Original Message - 
From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Pink Negs?


> - Original Message -
> From: Paul Jones
> Subject: Pink Negs?
> 
> 
> > HI,
> >
> > I developed some negs last night and they came out slightly
> pinkish, so i
> > assumed i hadnt fixed them properly, so i mixed up some new
> fixer and
> > refixed them and they are still pink.
> >
> > The first time there were fixed for double the clearing time
> in Inford Hypam
> > and the second time they were fixed in Teteninal Fixer, for a
> bit over
> > double the clearing time.
> >
> > No its not a Tmax film :) its tri-x. Could the stop bath be
> staining the
> > negs or something?
> 
> I've seen that before. Hang the film in a sunny window for a
> short while, the light will bleach the pink out, more than
> likely. I think it is residual sensitizing dye.
> 
> William Robb
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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My MZ-S Auctions ends soon

2002-05-30 Thread Paul Jones

Hi,

My MZ-S and BG-10 Auctions end shortly.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1355193976

Regards,
Paul
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Re: Fuji Superia XTra vs. Kodak Royal Gold ISO400

2002-05-30 Thread b_rubenstein

The only time you are just looking at film, is when you 
are just looking at film (slides). When you look at 
prints you are looking at a combination of the film, the 
paper, the print machine settings and the operator.
You prpbably could have taken your film to another place 
and seen just the opposite look.


>I'm shocked how different these films came out-
>same day, same lighting and the RG has much, much
>more color saturation and contrast- the Fuji looks
>positively flat in comparison. Strange thing is, the
>RG also looks like it is one stop slower than the
>Fuji. Is this due to the contrast?

How does Portra 400 in NC and VC formulations compare?
Is Portra the "new" RG?

Taka
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Re: More newbie questions- contrast, lens obstruction, shutter?

2002-05-30 Thread William Kane

Hmmm,

   Possibly an artifact of the light rays being blocked and not making
it to the lens?

Il Bill

TM wrote:
> 
> Stupid question- can shooting through a chain-link fence
> make it appear as though there are differing exposure times
> throughout the frame? I ask because I had no choice and had
> to shoot through a chain-link fence this weekend, noticed
> rather uneven contrast on a bunch of photos, not apparently
> due to the lighting or shadows, but something else.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out if it is the shutter or the fence that
> caused this. The lighter and darker portions moved around in
> different frames and different rolls of film, is this still
> indicative of a shutter problem?
> 
> Camera used was a Super A w/ 70-210/4.0 SMC-A.
> 
> Taka
> -
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Re: Fuji Superia XTra vs. Kodak Royal Gold ISO400

2002-05-30 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

TM wrote:

> Is Portra the "new" RG?
 
Don't think so. Seems that the Supra emulsions are the
next ones in the RG lineage, perhaps w/ a blending of 
that other line, - drawing a blank on the name - but
the "press oriented" one of a few years back. EktaPress??

I don't see the Supra in 120 at B&H - so I haven't actually
tried it. But that's my take on Kodak's current color C-41

:^)  2 Ektar 25 120's / 10 RG 25's in the freezer  ---  Bill

-
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http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: More newbie questions- contrast, lens obstruction, shutter?

2002-05-30 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

TM wrote:
 
> I'm trying to figure out if it is the shutter or the fence that
> caused this. The lighter and darker portions moved around in
> different frames and different rolls of film, is this still
> indicative of a shutter problem?

Could you see the fence in the viewfinder, all out of focus?
If so - it makes some sense that its "shadow" lessened exposure
over some somewhat broad areas of the emulsion, sort of a penumbra
(I think) area. If you were close enough at a focal length where
the fence "disappeared" it might be OK, at least not as obvious.

I don't think its the shutter unless its flakey anyway.

Bill

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http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-30 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

TM wrote:
 
> Does this sound like my Super A needs a CLA, or does it still
> point to the Motor Drive causing problems? 
 
The Super Series can gett friction hang-up in the shaft/sleeve
of the rewind crank. Mine has, but its easy fix. You just take
out the rewind crank and clean/buff out the shaft and sleeve.
Ya just need to hold the U end of the shaft firm to get the
thing apart. It's not a whole lot of resistance, but winders
don't like it. Got the tip from a list member (forget who -
an oldtimer I think gone now) a few years ago. ... worth a try.

Bill

-
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[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-30 Thread Kevin Waterson

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> > You stole the name of a great sport called football (in wich you REALLY hit
> > a BALL with your FOOT).

I had thought the name football was applied originally to seperate the games between 
those,
like hockey, that were traditionally played on horse back. Soccer(football) rules 
originally
inluded handling of the ball, but not running with it. Later this rule was removed and 
a 
specialised player put in the goal who could handle the ball.

Many football codes were shunned in the 1850-80s because it pulled people away from 
more
military style sports such as archery etc.

I imagine the game today bears little resemblance to its origin.

Australia alas, shall not be there again. Football(Soccer) has not had as big an impact
here in as in other countries.

Such is life.
Kevin Waterson
Byron Bay
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Re: World Cup

2002-05-30 Thread Paul Stenquist

It was a joke. But I didn't say anything about taking him on in a game,
I said, "taking him on."

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 5/30/2002 5:48:05 PM Central Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> > < > shorts. I'd like to see one of those little guys who bounces the ball of
> > his head take on a 300 pound defensive end who bench presses 450.>>
> 
> > Bull, 30 seconds into the game that lineman will be gasping for air and will
> > not be able to sit up, let alone bench press 45 pounds.  Remember, a play
> > in 'murcan football only lasts 5-8 seconds, not the continuous 45 minutes a
> > half lasts in soccer football.  That tubby lineman would be dead in 2
> > minutes or less.  If you really want to see stamina, look at those cyclists
> > in the Giro d'Italia or at Lance Armstrong.  5-6 hours in the saddle going
> > over the Pyranees and Alps...that is stamina.
> >
> > Jerry in Houston
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Re: OT: going, going, gone (to Prague)

2002-05-30 Thread Paul Stenquist

I don't know if you should let your wife wander, at least not on the
honeymoon. 

Aaron Reynolds wrote:
> 
> if you see a
> tall fellow with a ... wife wandering around, that's probably me.  ;)
> 
> -Aaron
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Re: World Cup

2002-05-30 Thread Mishka

yeah, and my dad can beat up your dad!
you guys are s much fun...
:^)

> From: Paul Stenquist 
> Subject: Re: World Cup 
> Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:03:35 -0700 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a joke. But I didn't say anything about taking him on in a 
> game, I said, "taking him on."
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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OT: Best Price on 35mm Reala?

2002-05-30 Thread Steve Pearson

I just paid $4.79 for a roll of 24 exp. at my local
store.  It seems that Adorama & B&H sell 35mm Reala in
a 36 exposure roll for $2.39 each.  I know I will pay
more for shipping, but if I buy 10 rolls I will save
some money.

Just curious-does anyone know of a better price on the
internet?

TIA,
Steve
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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RE: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-30 Thread TM

Thanks. If it is just gears, do you know if anyone can fabricate the
gears if they
are not available? If they are made of plastic, I also wonder if it
would be wise to
see if they can be fabbed in brass or stainless steel.

Your description sounds exactly like the problem- the motor drive works
perfectly for
the first 4 or 5 frames every single time and always works perfectly
when no film is in
the camera.

Are cameras impossible to fix for a reasonable price if the manufacturer
no longer supports
the model? I'll bet that if my Dad had bought a Nikon F3 this wouldn't
be such a big problem.

I need the Motor Drives, so I'll have to see what KEH says and see if we
can work out something
so that I can get some working Motor Drives until I can go buy something
like an MZ-S, but
I like my Super A a lot.

Taka

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of William Robb
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 7:43 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor Drive problems


- Original Message -
From: TM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive A problems


Taka, Here is what my repair guy sez:
There is a gear set in the motordrive that starts to wear out. The
symptom is that as more film is advanced onto the take up spool, and
more torque is required to drive the film, the gears start to jump teeth
and fail to complete the drive cycle. Apparently, I am the fourth person
this week to ask this question of him. Pentax Canada no longer supports
the drive A, perhaps independant shops or Pentax in another country may
be able to repair it for you.

William Robb
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RE: Fuji Superia XTra vs. Kodak Royal Gold ISO400

2002-05-30 Thread TM

Bill- Thanks much.

Short of purchasing my own developing and printing setup (which I
can't and won't do), how do I get proper color balance?

This was Ritz Camera, I don't really have a bunch of options for
developing and printing around here and I thought I'd do better w/
them than the supermarket- maybe that was a bad idea. Negatives were
not cut properly, either, although that seems to be a problem everywhere
and I don't think I can request uncut negatives, can I?

Taka

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:06 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fuji Superia XTra vs. Kodak Royal Gold ISO400


The only time you are just looking at film, is when you 
are just looking at film (slides). When you look at 
prints you are looking at a combination of the film, the 
paper, the print machine settings and the operator.
You prpbably could have taken your film to another place 
and seen just the opposite look.


>I'm shocked how different these films came out-
>same day, same lighting and the RG has much, much
>more color saturation and contrast- the Fuji looks
>positively flat in comparison. Strange thing is, the
>RG also looks like it is one stop slower than the
>Fuji. Is this due to the contrast?

How does Portra 400 in NC and VC formulations compare?
Is Portra the "new" RG?

Taka
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Re: 35-135 lens

2002-05-30 Thread Nick Wright

The lens is very good. Sharp, little falloff. My only complaint is that it's
closest focus distance is really pretty far. Can't remember exactly what it
is... By the way, both I and Mick have one of these lenses for sale. Let us
know if you're interested.
--
Nick Wright
http://www.wrightfoto.com/

--
>From: "HARRY BAUGHMAN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "pentax" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: 35-135 lens
>Date: Thu, May 30, 2002, 5:34 PM
>

> Some years ago Pentax came out with the SF bodies. There were some lenses
> released for them. One of them was a 35-135 f3.5-4.5. Was this lens any good?
> I am thinking about getting it to replace my Tokina 28-105 f3.5-4.5. Any one
> have some thoughts on this.
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RE: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-30 Thread TM

Bill-
The rewind crank? Are you saying that I pull hard on the U shaped
bit and the crank comes out from the top? Should I use anything to
lube the shaft before reassembly, like a Teflon dry lube?

Taka

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Bill D. Casselberry
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:36 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor Drive problems


TM wrote:
 
> Does this sound like my Super A needs a CLA, or does it still point to

> the Motor Drive causing problems?
 
The Super Series can gett friction hang-up in the shaft/sleeve
of the rewind crank. Mine has, but its easy fix. You just take
out the rewind crank and clean/buff out the shaft and sleeve.
Ya just need to hold the U end of the shaft firm to get the
thing apart. It's not a whole lot of resistance, but winders
don't like it. Got the tip from a list member (forget who -
an oldtimer I think gone now) a few years ago. ... worth a try.

Bill

-
Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Pink Negs?

2002-05-30 Thread Anthony Farr

Paul,

Sometimes a residual coloured stain can be due to undissolved anti-halation
backing.  This is usually washed away by the developer and is the reason
some developers pour out of the tank with a strong bluish colouring.  If
you're using a very dilute developer or are pulling the film the backing
might not dissolve completely.  Some film and developer combinations just
don't clear the anti-halation very well, either.

Try rinsing the film in fresh developer, it often works in cases where
you've eliminated exhausted fixer as the culprit.  No need to fix again,
just wash and rinse as usual.

Regards,
Anthony Farr

- Original Message -
From: "Paul Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



> HI,
>
> I developed some negs last night and they came out slightly pinkish, so i
> assumed i hadnt fixed them properly, so i mixed up some new fixer and
> refixed them and they are still pink.
>
> The first time there were fixed for double the clearing time in Inford
Hypam
> and the second time they were fixed in Teteninal Fixer, for a bit over
> double the clearing time.
>
> No its not a Tmax film :) its tri-x. Could the stop bath be staining the
> negs or something?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
> -
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RE: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-30 Thread William Johnson

I'm another Bill, but what I've done with good success (also on a Super Program that 
had the same problem) is just use a little dry graphite powder on the rewind 
shaftno disassembly required.  Haven't had any further problems in a year or two.  
Just be sure to be careful with the graphite, (it can be messy) and just work the 
rewind shaft quite a bit  

HTH

William in Utah

5/30/02 9:23:51 PM, "TM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Bill-
>The rewind crank? Are you saying that I pull hard on the U shaped
>bit and the crank comes out from the top? Should I use anything to
>lube the shaft before reassembly, like a Teflon dry lube?
>
>Taka
>
>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Bill D. Casselberry
>Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:36 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: Motor Drive problems
>
>
>TM wrote:
> 
>> Does this sound like my Super A needs a CLA, or does it still point to
>
>> the Motor Drive causing problems?
> 
>   The Super Series can gett friction hang-up in the shaft/sleeve
>   of the rewind crank. Mine has, but its easy fix. You just take
>   out the rewind crank and clean/buff out the shaft and sleeve.
>   Ya just need to hold the U end of the shaft firm to get the
>   thing apart. It's not a whole lot of resistance, but winders
>   don't like it. Got the tip from a list member (forget who -
>   an oldtimer I think gone now) a few years ago. ... worth a try.
>
>   Bill
>
>-
>Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast
>
>http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>-
>-
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Re: AF adapter

2002-05-30 Thread Doug Franklin

On Wed, 29 May 2002 23:19:37 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> However. Just trying the combination out, first it would focus on the 
> semi-far subject and a much closer one, and it would shift between the two 
> nicely; then it stopped being able to get to the further one without help, so 
> I helped it; then it was once again shifting happily between the two. 
> Is it actually supposed to require partial focusing by me, or is this just a 
> workaround? If it's working the way it should, then I wonder why it's not 
> consistent. 


If you focus the host lens at infinity, it's not supposed to need any
further adjustments. That said, I've had to dink with the focus point
of the host lens to get it to reliably AF in some circumstances.

>From your description of your problem, though, I'd suspect something
electrical or electronic.  You said you've cleaned the T/C's contacts
... you should do the same thing to the camera body's contacts, if you
haven't already.  Other than that, you're out of my depth. :-)

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: More newbie questions- contrast, lens obstruction, shutter?

2002-05-30 Thread Doug Franklin

On Thu, 30 May 2002 18:28:06 -0700, Bill D. Casselberry wrote:

> TM wrote:
>  
> > [...] the shutter or the fence that caused this. [...]
> 
>   Could you see the fence in the viewfinder, all out of focus?
>   If so - it makes some sense that its "shadow" lessened exposure
> [...]

If someone's got a couple of meg of web space, I can provide a couple
of images from a recent race shoot that clearly show a blurry fence.  I
was using a 400/5.6 lens and the subject (focus) was about fifty feet
out (about 15m), the fence was at maybe three feet (just less than 1m).

For confirmation, I'd take the image into Photoshop, convert it to gray
scale, and enhance the heck out of the contrast, just short of
posterization.  Then look for the telltale "cross hatch" pattern in the
density variations.

If the pattern is not there, you can rule out the fence, with very high
probability.  If the pattern is there you can't rule out the fence, and
there's probably a pretty high probability that the fence is the issue.
 Of course, you can't be 100% confident on that little data. :-)

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: AF adapter

2002-05-30 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 5/30/2002 11:17:24 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> From your description of your problem, though, I'd suspect something
> electrical or electronic.  You said you've cleaned the T/C's contacts
> ... you should do the same thing to the camera body's contacts, if you
> haven't already.  Other than that, you're out of my depth. :-)
> 

I was thinkin' that ... this has happened with both autofocus bodies, but it 
wouldn't hurt to clean both ... Will TRY being sure to set the lens at 
infinity and see how it goes.

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: TM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive problems


> Thanks. If it is just gears, do you know if anyone can
fabricate the
> gears if they
> are not available? If they are made of plastic, I also wonder
if it
> would be wise to
> see if they can be fabbed in brass or stainless steel.

We are thinking along similar lines. I think having brass gears
made by a good machine shop would be a good repair. Yhe gear
train is that cheesey soft white nylon crap that they use to
save production costs.
>
> Your description sounds exactly like the problem- the motor
drive works
> perfectly for
> the first 4 or 5 frames every single time and always works
perfectly
> when no film is in
> the camera.

Did you check on the possibility of a bad electrical connection?
If it is that, it is an easier fix. It is certainly worth
inspecting, if you can do it yourself.
>
> Are cameras impossible to fix for a reasonable price if the
manufacturer
> no longer supports
> the model? I'll bet that if my Dad had bought a Nikon F3 this
wouldn't
> be such a big problem.

If you had an F3, it wouldn't be a problem at all. The F3 was
Nikons top line camera, and was only discontinued a few years
ago.
I had a Nikon F2 for many years. I purchased it new in 1975. I
finally ended up selling it to a friend when I switched over to
Pentax. He finally killed it 3 years ago by submersing it in
some river in Pennsylvania.
Nikon Canada was very apologetic about their inability to fix
it. Apparently, a couple of parts that they could no longer
aquire needed replacing.
>
> I need the Motor Drives, so I'll have to see what KEH says and
see if we
> can work out something
> so that I can get some working Motor Drives until I can go buy
something
> like an MZ-S, but
> I like my Super A a lot.

The Super Program is a nice camera. My only complaint with it is
a bouncy mirror and shutter.

William Robb
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WTB: AF280T, or?

2002-05-30 Thread Steve Pearson

I have a Super Program & think this would be the best
flash for my camera.  I currently have the 200T, but
would like something with a lilttle more power &
bounce capability.

Anyone out there have one for sale?  Or, is there
another flash I should consider?  I think I should be
looking only at Pentax brand for the TTL feature?

TIA,
Steve
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Re: WTB: AF280T, or?

2002-05-30 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 5/30/2002 11:51:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> I think I should be
> looking only at Pentax brand for the TTL feature?
> 

Probably not -- I used the Sunpak 30DX on a Super Program in TTL mode 
successfully. I no longer have a Super Program, but still have the Sunpaks 
(two of them) and they also work in TTL mode with my LX and my autofocus 
Pentaxes.

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Hmmmm.......

2002-05-30 Thread William Robb

It's pretty computer geeky, but amusing.
http://www.theonion.com/onion3311/microsoftpatents.html
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