Re: A few questions about lenses for those that shoot old primes....

2013-03-24 Thread Chris Mitchell
>
> My question is that how do I deal with constant dust accumulating in my 
> primes?

Hi Zos

I've never had issues with dust inside lenses. I've been using a
30+year old SMC M f2.8 28mm on my Fuji X-Pro. The lens was my dad's
and it would have had extensive use in its early days, but has been in
a cupboard with front and rear caps on for 20 of its years. It's as
clean as the day it was bought.

Here's a PESO taken at f8 a couple of weeks ago:
http://mitch.myzen.co.uk/PDML/DSCF0649.jpg

Chris

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Re: A few questions about lenses for those that shoot old primes....

2013-03-24 Thread Zos Xavius
So how does the 28mm work on the x-pro? do you have to open and close
the aperture manually like an m42 lens on a pentax body?
42
On Sun, Mar 24, 2013 at 4:17 AM, Chris Mitchell
 wrote:
>>
>> My question is that how do I deal with constant dust accumulating in my 
>> primes?
>
> Hi Zos
>
> I've never had issues with dust inside lenses. I've been using a
> 30+year old SMC M f2.8 28mm on my Fuji X-Pro. The lens was my dad's
> and it would have had extensive use in its early days, but has been in
> a cupboard with front and rear caps on for 20 of its years. It's as
> clean as the day it was bought.
>
> Here's a PESO taken at f8 a couple of weeks ago:
> http://mitch.myzen.co.uk/PDML/DSCF0649.jpg
>
> Chris
>
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Re: A few questions about lenses for those that shoot old primes...

2013-03-24 Thread Zos Xavius
Bipin,

Perhaps the best response so far. I am very careful and quick about
changing lenses outside and generally won't do it if there is wind. I
hear you on going for weather sealed lenses. It all comes down to
cost. Hopefully I can slowly work my way into some better glass here.
I've had good success with some things last year, but then everything
started breaking all at once over the past few months. Sometimes I
feel like the universe is working against me. Good idea on the
neoprene case. See I've read so many good and bad pieces of advice
from "veterans" over the years. Yeah I tried blowing off my 28mm
because that's how lensrentals does it and really that was just a bad
idea. I should have just brushed it and called it quits. That just
pushed fine dust inside of it which was the last thing I wanted. I'll
have to see what it does with exposures at night. Both my 50s are
pretty clean for being as old and well used as they are. My laptop
would likely freak you out lol. its so messy after a year. i keep
meaning to clean it, but the dust isn't really hurting much. No
comment on my bathroom, but I've certainly slept in worse places. :)

Did I mention I'm currently living in mold contaminated environment?
Pretty great right?

On Sun, Mar 24, 2013 at 2:19 AM, Bipin Gupta  wrote:
> Hello Zos I am a Pentaxian since some 36 years and shoot outdoors
> pretty frequently. But if you see my gear it will look as good as new.
> So are my laptops/tablets, the 35 year old brief case 4-in-one stereo
> system, the 3 or 4 binoculars, even my car. And yes you could sleep in
> my bathroom - it is so clean and hygienic.
> Simple, cleanliness and keeping things clean is a way of life, an
> attitude, and a bit of routine "safe" brushing and cleaning. So here
> it is:-
> a) I have since changed to WR lenses and cameras. These are well
> sealed and do not suck in dust or moisture. Also these lenses are less
> prone to fogging and moisture proof. Hopefully fungus and coating
> deterioration will be a thing of the past - but time will tell.
> b) The newer lenses have SP coatings, less prone to finger prints and
> water retention. They are also harder wearing. But that said, I never
> blow on my lens and the use a hanky to clean them. Blowing leaves acid
> from your breath on the lens coating and hankys always have fine dust
> on them - leave fine swirl & scratch marks on the lens.
> I use high quality nylon or squirrel hair brush to clean the lens
> surface. Then Japanese (NOT China) micro fiber cloth to clean them.
> c) I always have the best quality Pro Protector Clear Slim Frame &
> Thin Glass SMC Filters on my lens. The hood is always on - indoors or
> out. And the lens is capped when not in use - learned from my K1000 SE
> days - uncapped the meter is ON, capped the meter is OFF & no battery
> drain.
> Also I buy lots of lens caps - keep loosing them - $ 1.70 for a 77mm
> cap shipped fro China. Can it be any cheaper and safer?
> d) I avoid changing lenses outdoors. When I must, I check the wind
> direction, turn my back, hunch forward, keep the 2nd lens ready in the
> bag with the rear cap loosen'd, point the lens down remove the lens,
> cap it with the cap from the 2nd lens, the attach this lens with the
> camera still facing downwards.
> I always carry a large thin film plastic bag to protect my gear in
> case of a shower. So in very windy & dusty conditions I change lenses
> inside the look thru plastic bag.
> f) hey look, I love classical lenses both M42 & K - have lots of them
> - but I don't go overboard on them - they just can't be better than
> the computer designed stuff with their tuff lens coat & sealing - and
> as a technocrat, a master mechanic and a retired advisor in the
> world's largest conglomerate, I beg you to believe me. Old lenses will
> yellow (radio active glass), lens elements will fog and separate (poor
> balsam glue), single lens coating will deteriorate, looseness between
> sliding tubes over time will become worse and let dust enter, old
> grease (not smart synthetic stuff) will break down, others.
> g) Please don't use a rocket blower (& never canned air)
> indiscriminately on lenses and inside camera bodies. They will over
> time cause more dust to accumulate inside.
> h) When not in use, put the camera in a light neoprene case - $ 7 from
> China shipped. I just remove mine before shooting and hang it from my
> waist belt using the velcro on the case. This case (same fabric as a
> wet suit) is pretty thick - protects your gear against knocks too.
> i) For classic lenses wrap some thin film plastic on the lens barrels
> at the overlapping joints held fast by rubber bands. You will have
> lesser dust inside your lenses - and don't bother if  people laugh at
> you. You will still be able to focus or zoom - just ensure the rubber
> band is not too tight.
> I could go on and on, my friend. If this has worked for me for three
> decades it should work for you.
> Give them a try - won't you.
> Bipin - fr

RE: OT Really f*ck*ng annoying.

2013-03-24 Thread Bob W
> From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of P.J. Alling
> 
> So I ordered an item Adorama through Amazon.  Paid by card, and gave
> them my street address, as Adorama ships via UPS or FedEx, standard
> delivery as I'm not in a hurry.  Everything seems to be going fine
> until I realize the item hasn't moved since it arrived in North Haven.
> Checking into I find that UPS has contracted with the USPS to deliver
> packages!!!  Now I don't have a mail receptacle at my house, I have a
> post office box.  UPS doesn't deliver to PO Boxes. The US mail won't
> deliver to my house, no receptacle.  I think I'll scream.
> 

it's the retailer's responsibility to get the thing to you. Tell them to use
a shipper who can actually be bothered to do what they're paid to do.

Sometimes online sellers have shipped things to me via one of the private
carriers, and left a note to say the item is in their depot, which is in an
obscure part of London which would entail a 2-hour round trip for me to
collect. 

Well, if I'd wanted to spend 2 hours buying it, I wouldn't have bought it
online. 

So I leave it, and it gets returned to the seller. 

I tell the seller that I will cancel the sale unless they use the Royal Mail
to send it, so that if it's undelivered I can at least collect it from a
local depot or post office or, better still, they will leave it with a
neighbour.

B


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IMG117 | Roman Melihhov Photography

2013-03-24 Thread Roman Melihhov
http://roman.blakout.net/picture.php?/855/category/82
This is one of those situations when cell phone camera is irreplaceable. Fliers 
and soda can makes so lovely photo set.

* LG-400 + built-in photo editor for slight sharpening and color 
auto-adjustments *



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K-5 × DA 16-45 × DA 17-70 SDM × DA* 50-135 SDM × FA 50 × FA 35-70


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RE: Book submissions

2013-03-24 Thread Bob W
> From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of David Mann
> 
> On Mar 24, 2013, at 11:47 AM, John Sessoms 
> wrote:
> 
> > PS: That Number of the Beast thingy? It apparently got screwed up in
> > translation somewhere along the way and depending on whose argument
> > you accept the "real" number should be either 616 or 661.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZqFtYtqaI
> 

I went on holiday to Patmos once in the early 80s and visited the cave where
John wrote the book of Revelations. 

The monks on the island seemed far less interested in biblical revelations
than in trying to make tourists cover their own revelations while pottering
about naked on the beach.

I think John's revelation about the mighty beast must have been inspired by
a dream foretelling my magnificent emergence from the waves...

" 13 And I stood upon the sand of the sea, and saw a beast rise up out of
the sea, having seven heads and ten horns, and upon his horns ten crowns,
and upon his heads the name of blasphemy.

2 And the beast which I saw was like unto a leopard, and his feet were as
the feet of a bear, and his mouth as the mouth of a lion: and the dragon
gave him his power, and his seat, and great authority.

3 And I saw one of his heads as it were wounded to death; and his deadly
wound was healed: and all the world wondered after the beast.

4 And they worshipped the dragon which gave power unto the beast: and they
worshipped the beast, saying, Who is like unto the beast? who is able to
make war with him?

5 And there was given unto him a mouth speaking great things and
blasphemies; and power was given unto him to continue forty and two months.

6 And he opened his mouth in blasphemy against God, to blaspheme his name,
and his tabernacle, and them that dwell in heaven. "

And all these years later, I've hardly aged at all!

B


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Re: OT Really f*ck*ng annoying.

2013-03-24 Thread mike wilson

On 24/03/2013 10:21, Bob W wrote:

From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of P.J. Alling

So I ordered an item Adorama through Amazon.  Paid by card, and gave
them my street address, as Adorama ships via UPS or FedEx, standard
delivery as I'm not in a hurry.  Everything seems to be going fine
until I realize the item hasn't moved since it arrived in North Haven.
Checking into I find that UPS has contracted with the USPS to deliver
packages!!!  Now I don't have a mail receptacle at my house, I have a
post office box.  UPS doesn't deliver to PO Boxes. The US mail won't
deliver to my house, no receptacle.  I think I'll scream.



it's the retailer's responsibility to get the thing to you. Tell them to use
a shipper who can actually be bothered to do what they're paid to do.


Only here, I suspect.  In the USA, if something you buy does not 
function as required, you have to seek recourse from the manufacturer, 
not the retailer.  It's probably the buyer's responsibility to make sure 
something is delivered to them, as well.




Sometimes online sellers have shipped things to me via one of the private
carriers, and left a note to say the item is in their depot, which is in an
obscure part of London which would entail a 2-hour round trip for me to
collect.

Well, if I'd wanted to spend 2 hours buying it, I wouldn't have bought it
online.

So I leave it, and it gets returned to the seller.

I tell the seller that I will cancel the sale unless they use the Royal Mail
to send it, so that if it's undelivered I can at least collect it from a
local depot or post office or, better still, they will leave it with a
neighbour.

B





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Re: A few questions about lenses for those that shoot old primes....

2013-03-24 Thread mike wilson

On 24/03/2013 00:15, Zos Xavius wrote:


Ok, sorry this is turning into a long ramble. My question is that how
do I deal with constant dust accumulating in my primes?


I suspect you need to move to a less dusty location.


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Re: Anyone using Triggertrap?

2013-03-24 Thread mike wilson

On 22/03/2013 22:50, Brian Walters wrote:

G'day all

Triggertrap is a Smartphone app that, combined with a dongle that
connects your phone to the remote port of your camera, turns your phone
into a sophisticated intervalometer.  It looks as if it would be useful
for things like star trails.

Anyone tried it?

Details here:

https://triggertrap.com/products/triggertrap-mobile/




I bought the Pentax version of this.
http://www.7dayshop.com/7dayshop-timer-remote-control-for-olympus-ref-7dsmqtc9-overstock-special?backUrl=L3Bob3RvLXZpZGVvLXN1cHBsaWVzL2NhbWVyYS1hY2Nlc3Nvcmllcz9jYXQ9NTY3

Not stocked at the moment.

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RE: OT Really f*ck*ng annoying.

2013-03-24 Thread Bob W
> From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of mike wilson
> 
> On 24/03/2013 10:21, Bob W wrote:
> >> From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of P.J. Alling
> >>
> >> So I ordered an item Adorama through Amazon.  Paid by card, and gave
> >> them my street address, as Adorama ships via UPS or FedEx, standard
> >> delivery as I'm not in a hurry.  Everything seems to be going fine
> >> until I realize the item hasn't moved since it arrived in North
> Haven.
> >> Checking into I find that UPS has contracted with the USPS to
> deliver
> >> packages!!!  Now I don't have a mail receptacle at my house, I have
> a
> >> post office box.  UPS doesn't deliver to PO Boxes. The US mail won't
> >> deliver to my house, no receptacle.  I think I'll scream.
> >>
> >
> > it's the retailer's responsibility to get the thing to you. Tell them
> > to use a shipper who can actually be bothered to do what they're paid
> to do.
> 
> Only here, I suspect.  In the USA, if something you buy does not
> function as required, you have to seek recourse from the manufacturer,
> not the retailer.  It's probably the buyer's responsibility to make
> sure something is delivered to them, as well.
> 

Maybe so, but if their customers start going elsewhere perhaps the retailers
will start listening.

B


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Re: Anyone using Triggertrap?

2013-03-24 Thread Brian Walters

Quoting mike wilson :


I bought the Pentax version of this.
http://www.7dayshop.com/7dayshop-timer-remote-control-for-olympus-ref-7dsmqtc9-overstock-special?backUrl=L3Bob3RvLXZpZGVvLXN1cHBsaWVzL2NhbWVyYS1hY2Nlc3Nvcmllcz9jYXQ9NTY3

Not stocked at the moment.




I've seen similar remotes on EBay but it's often difficult to  
establish how reliable they are and what their capabilities are.   
Specifically I'm looking for something that accesses the cameras  
'Bulb' mode to get exposures longer than 30 sec.


Taking another look at EBay just now I found this one which looks  
similar to the one you described.  It's cheap enough so might be worth  
the risk.


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YONGNUO-MC-36b-Timer-Remote-Shutter-for-Pentax-K5-II-K7-K200-K-30-K100-K110-645D-/251224714008?pt=Camera_Camcorder_Remotes&hash=item3a7e28eb18



Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/





On 22/03/2013 22:50, Brian Walters wrote:

G'day all

Triggertrap is a Smartphone app that, combined with a dongle that
connects your phone to the remote port of your camera, turns your phone
into a sophisticated intervalometer.  It looks as if it would be useful
for things like star trails.

Anyone tried it?

Details here:

https://triggertrap.com/products/triggertrap-mobile/







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RE: PESO - Unfinished

2013-03-24 Thread knarftheria...@gmail.com
Lovely still life - very well composed and exposed.

Cheers,
frank

--- Original Message ---

From: Paul Stenquist 
Sent: March 23, 2013 3/23/13
To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
Subject: PESO - Unfinished

Another pic with the SMC Pentax 85/1.8. 
f8 @ 1/40th, ISO 5000

http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=17075152&size=lg

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RE: PESO - Went to Smile School

2013-03-24 Thread knarftheria...@gmail.com
Can't go wrong with a pretty young lady smiling.

;-)

Nice pic!

cheers,
frank

--- Original Message ---

From: Paul Stenquist 
Sent: March 23, 2013 3/23/13
To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
Subject: PESO - Went to Smile School

Had some fun with the SMC Pentax 85/1.8 today. Hadn't used it in years. This 
pic is f4, 1/30th, ISO 5000

http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=17074373&size=lg
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Re: PESO - Unfinished

2013-03-24 Thread Paul Stenquist
Thanks Frank. I had forgotten how nice that lens is. And I was able to focus 
it! Encouraging for an oldster like me.

On Mar 24, 2013, at 7:52 AM, knarftheria...@gmail.com wrote:

> Lovely still life - very well composed and exposed.
> 
> Cheers,
> frank
> 
> --- Original Message ---
> 
> From: Paul Stenquist 
> Sent: March 23, 2013 3/23/13
> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
> Subject: PESO - Unfinished
> 
> Another pic with the SMC Pentax 85/1.8. 
> f8 @ 1/40th, ISO 5000
> 
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=17075152&size=lg
> 
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Re: A few questions about lenses for those that shoot old primes....

2013-03-24 Thread Chris Mitchell
On 24 March 2013 08:32, Zos Xavius  wrote:
> So how does the 28mm work on the x-pro? do you have to open and close
> the aperture manually like an m42 lens on a pentax body?

Yes, that's it. For creative stuff, it's wide open focus and stop down
to desired aperture and either let the camera choose the shutter speed
or use manual metering just like the old days. When walking about and
for quick grabs, I set infinity at the f8 hyperfocal point. That gives
focus between about 1.5 metres and infinity. I let the camera choose
the shutter speed and ISO combination.

Chris

> On Sun, Mar 24, 2013 at 4:17 AM, Chris Mitchell
>  wrote:
>>>
>>> My question is that how do I deal with constant dust accumulating in my 
>>> primes?
>>
>> Hi Zos
>>
>> I've never had issues with dust inside lenses. I've been using a
>> 30+year old SMC M f2.8 28mm on my Fuji X-Pro. The lens was my dad's
>> and it would have had extensive use in its early days, but has been in
>> a cupboard with front and rear caps on for 20 of its years. It's as
>> clean as the day it was bought.
>>
>> Here's a PESO taken at f8 a couple of weeks ago:
>> http://mitch.myzen.co.uk/PDML/DSCF0649.jpg
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> --
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>> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and 
>> follow the directions.
>
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Re: OT Really f*ck*ng annoying.

2013-03-24 Thread Aahz Maruch
On Sun, Mar 24, 2013, mike wilson wrote:
> On 24/03/2013 10:21, Bob W wrote:
>>
>>it's the retailer's responsibility to get the thing to you. Tell them to use
>>a shipper who can actually be bothered to do what they're paid to do.
> 
> Only here, I suspect.  In the USA, if something you buy does not
> function as required, you have to seek recourse from the
> manufacturer, not the retailer.  It's probably the buyer's
> responsibility to make sure something is delivered to them, as well.

Nope, it's the seller's/shipper's responsibility to ensure delivery.
Especially if you pay with a credit card (and who doesn't for online
sales?), you can dispute the charge if it doesn't get delivered.
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Re: Anyone using Triggertrap?

2013-03-24 Thread mike wilson

On 24/03/2013 12:38, Brian Walters wrote:

Quoting mike wilson :


I bought the Pentax version of this.
http://www.7dayshop.com/7dayshop-timer-remote-control-for-olympus-ref-7dsmqtc9-overstock-special?backUrl=L3Bob3RvLXZpZGVvLXN1cHBsaWVzL2NhbWVyYS1hY2Nlc3Nvcmllcz9jYXQ9NTY3


Not stocked at the moment.




I've seen similar remotes on EBay but it's often difficult to establish
how reliable they are and what their capabilities are.  Specifically I'm
looking for something that accesses the cameras 'Bulb' mode to get
exposures longer than 30 sec.

Taking another look at EBay just now I found this one which looks
similar to the one you described.  It's cheap enough so might be worth
the risk.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YONGNUO-MC-36b-Timer-Remote-Shutter-for-Pentax-K5-II-K7-K200-K-30-K100-K110-645D-/251224714008?pt=Camera_Camcorder_Remotes&hash=item3a7e28eb18



Appears identical.  With my K5 set on bulb it will happily do one minute 
exposures up to the maximum number programmable of 399, with intervals 
from one second up to 99hours, 59minutes 59seconds.


Indispensable.

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Re: considering upgrading

2013-03-24 Thread knarftheria...@gmail.com
"Shutter jello"?

cheers,
frank

--- Original Message ---

From: Zos Xavius 
Sent: March 23, 2013 3/23/13
To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
Subject: Re: considering upgrading

The 2-bits gives a lot more data in RAW. 12 vs 14-bit asides, I'm with
Aahz. The k-30 just isn't as fully featured as the k-5. The top plate
LCD is extremely useful and negates use of the back screen a lot, so
you can turn it off and save battery. For me it was the bracketing.
The k-30 is only three brackets, the k-5 is 5. Faster burst with a
very deep buffer. The k-5 is actually even now a pretty killer DSLR.
The only improvement with the k-30 is video really, but no external
mic input and a mono built in mic is kind of weak IMO. A k-01 is
actually a lot better for video. Yeah there's focus peaking, but I
don't like using live view and if I need to resort to live view in
difficult focusing situation I can generally see the plane of focus
pretty easily on a big screen like that, especially with a fast lens.

The plastic body might be a bit more rugged. My k-5 has survived a
fall off a tripod though and thankfully only the bottom plate really
scuffed, but the mount ring ended up bent. I'm also a bigger fan of
the k-5's classic looks. I bought a k-7 a year ago and jumped on a k-5
as soon as I could. Everything just works so much better than the k-7.
What else. There's no AF selector switch on the k-30 too. That's
probably about it. I like the mode dial on the left like the k-5 has
so there's that too, but that wouldn't be a deal breaker. One argument
for video in the k-5's favor is that it uses SR whereas the k-30 I
believe uses a digital SR in processing that causes more wobble and
shutter jello. I find the AF in the k-5 perfectly fine personally. It
does seem to fail under tungsten and I believe the k-30 addresses that
better. If I get a consistent shift I can usually just adjust the
focus in the menu. Problem with that though is that I sometimes forget
to turn it off... ;)

I've tested and beat up this camera pretty thoroughly and it still
takes great pictures. I've had the rear LCD screen pop off after the
first fall and slide across asphalt and I just put it back on. The
adhesive still seemed pretty ok and I've used it in the rain since
then without any leaking. The cover is nice and scratched though. One
of these days I'll order a new one. I have a lot of dust on the screen
now too. Oh well. It still takes great pictures, especially when
paired with sharp glass. I'm going to say get the k-5.

On Sat, Mar 23, 2013 at 7:05 PM, Aahz Maruch  wrote:
> On Sat, Mar 23, 2013, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
>>
>> I'm leaning toward a K30.  But I'm also curious ... would you prefer a
>> good used K5 over a K30?  Why or why not?  I'd like the extra 2 bits
>> of depth, but even then is it that critical?
>
> You must have missed my post a few weeks ago, I really disliked the feel
> of the K-30.  The grip is physically a bit uncomfortable for me, and the
> controls aren't as nice as the K-5.  So even aside from the better
> performance from the K-5, I'd rather have that.
>
> Have you used a K-30?  (Doesn't take long, I made my decision less than
> fifteen minutes after handling one, after trying out both a K-5 and
> Larry's K-x.)
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Re: considering upgrading

2013-03-24 Thread Zos Xavius
LOL... I couldn't think of the word I wanted. Rolling shutter is
probably better. But it does create kind of a jello effect. It was
something that K-01 users noted first, that SR was not used to
stabilize video. That's been my understanding of it. The SR mechanism
makes some noise, so maybe they decided it was best to disable it for
video? I dunno. It seems like the better solution to me. Its odd, I
swear the SR on my k-5 is louder than my K-7

On Sun, Mar 24, 2013 at 8:33 AM, knarftheria...@gmail.com
 wrote:
> "Shutter jello"?
>
> cheers,
> frank
>
> --- Original Message ---
>
> From: Zos Xavius 
> Sent: March 23, 2013 3/23/13
> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
> Subject: Re: considering upgrading
>
> The 2-bits gives a lot more data in RAW. 12 vs 14-bit asides, I'm with
> Aahz. The k-30 just isn't as fully featured as the k-5. The top plate
> LCD is extremely useful and negates use of the back screen a lot, so
> you can turn it off and save battery. For me it was the bracketing.
> The k-30 is only three brackets, the k-5 is 5. Faster burst with a
> very deep buffer. The k-5 is actually even now a pretty killer DSLR.
> The only improvement with the k-30 is video really, but no external
> mic input and a mono built in mic is kind of weak IMO. A k-01 is
> actually a lot better for video. Yeah there's focus peaking, but I
> don't like using live view and if I need to resort to live view in
> difficult focusing situation I can generally see the plane of focus
> pretty easily on a big screen like that, especially with a fast lens.
>
> The plastic body might be a bit more rugged. My k-5 has survived a
> fall off a tripod though and thankfully only the bottom plate really
> scuffed, but the mount ring ended up bent. I'm also a bigger fan of
> the k-5's classic looks. I bought a k-7 a year ago and jumped on a k-5
> as soon as I could. Everything just works so much better than the k-7.
> What else. There's no AF selector switch on the k-30 too. That's
> probably about it. I like the mode dial on the left like the k-5 has
> so there's that too, but that wouldn't be a deal breaker. One argument
> for video in the k-5's favor is that it uses SR whereas the k-30 I
> believe uses a digital SR in processing that causes more wobble and
> shutter jello. I find the AF in the k-5 perfectly fine personally. It
> does seem to fail under tungsten and I believe the k-30 addresses that
> better. If I get a consistent shift I can usually just adjust the
> focus in the menu. Problem with that though is that I sometimes forget
> to turn it off... ;)
>
> I've tested and beat up this camera pretty thoroughly and it still
> takes great pictures. I've had the rear LCD screen pop off after the
> first fall and slide across asphalt and I just put it back on. The
> adhesive still seemed pretty ok and I've used it in the rain since
> then without any leaking. The cover is nice and scratched though. One
> of these days I'll order a new one. I have a lot of dust on the screen
> now too. Oh well. It still takes great pictures, especially when
> paired with sharp glass. I'm going to say get the k-5.
>
> On Sat, Mar 23, 2013 at 7:05 PM, Aahz Maruch  wrote:
>> On Sat, Mar 23, 2013, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm leaning toward a K30.  But I'm also curious ... would you prefer a
>>> good used K5 over a K30?  Why or why not?  I'd like the extra 2 bits
>>> of depth, but even then is it that critical?
>>
>> You must have missed my post a few weeks ago, I really disliked the feel
>> of the K-30.  The grip is physically a bit uncomfortable for me, and the
>> controls aren't as nice as the K-5.  So even aside from the better
>> performance from the K-5, I'd rather have that.
>>
>> Have you used a K-30?  (Doesn't take long, I made my decision less than
>> fifteen minutes after handling one, after trying out both a K-5 and
>> Larry's K-x.)
>> --
>> Hugs and backrubs -- I break Rule 6http://rule6.info/
>>   <*>   <*>   <*>
>> Help a hearing-impaired person: http://rule6.info/hearing.html
>>
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Re: GESO: Spring Visitors

2013-03-24 Thread Aahz Maruch
On Thu, Mar 21, 2013, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:
> On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 4:49 PM, Stan Halpin 
> wrote:
>>
>> I've been sidetracked from finishing up my Caribbean photos by some lovely
>> birds arriving from the south. Here are three of the more colorful . . .
>>
>> http://photos.stanhalpin.com/p764918074

Are you using a Bigma?

> Excellent gallery.  The Hooded Merganser is a gem.

Ditto on all that, especially the Hooded Merganser swimming in ice.
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Re: Geso the Iowa Mountains

2013-03-24 Thread Don Guthrie
Thanks Stan, I'm glad everyone enjoyed these as much as I enjoyed taking 
them.




pdml-requ...@pdml.net wrote:

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 20:05:27 -0400
From: Stan Halpin
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: Geso the Iowa Mountains
Message-ID:
<18fe5822-cc38-4ab6-93cc-95bddd94d...@stans-photography.info>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Nice series. I think the B&W work better for these scenes, I particularly like 
25850.

stan



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RE: Geso the Iowa Mountains

2013-03-24 Thread Don Guthrie

Thanks Frank, we aim to please.

pdml-requ...@pdml.net wrote:

Message: 14
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2013 15:10:23 + (UTC)
From:"knarftheria...@gmail.com"  
To: "\"Pentax-Discuss Mail List\""
Subject: RE: Geso the Iowa Mountains
Message-ID:

<1175437447.57719.1364051438291.javamail.se...@ap8.p2.fra.samsungsocialhub.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Beautiful photos, Don!

Cheers,
frank

--- Original Message ---

From: Don Guthrie
Sent: March 22, 2013 3/22/13
To:pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Geso the Iowa Mountains

Everyone knows IA is flatland & there are no mountains. However we do
have some beautiful river valleys. Some, like this one, lined with
limestone.  Wonderful snow without human footprints make for a lovely
non farm gallery. C&C welcomed.



http://flic.kr/s/aHsjEqPCow



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OT Really f*ck*ng annoying.

2013-03-24 Thread Bipin Gupta
GRINS - I have had some very good experiences in the US & Canada with
shipments from Amazon & EvilBay - from the US / Hong Kong / China etc.
In both the locations the houses have trap door letter boxes in the
Garage wall where the post man pushes things in and they fall safely
into a wire basket. For bigger parcels the USPS / Canada Post or UPS /
DHL guy knocks on the door and deliver the stuff - we always give our
street address and phone number in the shipping address.
On three occasions we were not in the house and the packages were
pretty large - expensive stuff too. It was neatly placed between the
main and mesh door of the house. What a surprise?
Some of you may want to know which cities these were - Chicago,
Thornhill, Ontario, Canada and San Mateo in tne Bay Area California.
Here in Bangalore, India, the world's software / computer city, the
Postman leaves a slip stuck on your door asking you to come and
collect. And some Couriers leave a message telling you they will be
back the next day at approx xx time - awesome customer service.
F*ck*ng thrilling experience.
Regards.
Bipin - from that far away enchanting land.

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Re: A Classic American Race Car

2013-03-24 Thread Aahz Maruch
On Fri, Mar 22, 2013, John Francis wrote:
> On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 03:18:52PM -0400, Bruce Walker wrote:
>>
>> It's working for me okay, John; just opened it a minute ago.
>> 
>> I'm thinking maybe it's a cookie you have set for nytimes.com. You
>> might try clearing those.
> 
> The NYT uses a paywall that's a bit more complicated than a simple cookie.
> Simply deleting cookes does not, AFAIK, help you here.

Using Lynx does, however.  (For the non-Luddite computer users, Lynx is
a text-only browser that does not support JavaScript.)
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Re: A few questions about lenses for those that shoot old primes....

2013-03-24 Thread P.J. Alling

You probably shouldn't ask me.  I tend to be a bit hard on my equipment...

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PDML/smcpa24filterring.html

On 3/23/2013 7:15 PM, Zos Xavius wrote:

I've done some testing and decided that my FA 28-80 was completely
decentered to the point of being unusable, especially over 50mm. I'm
guessing its likely the sloppiness in the barrelbad, bad, bad
design and construction... I have to stop down to f13 to get a usable
image that has ok sharpness across the frame. I'm going to retire this
one. For a basically free lens I can't really complain. Its been on my
camera pretty full time for a while now and I'm guessing I've just
knocked it around too much or something. I tend to be pretty hard on
gear and carry a camera pretty much full time, so it get exposed to
the elements on a daily basis. What I'm getting at is that I'm about
to switch to just fully using primes. I may get a 55-300 as that would
be useful and I think I still want a 16-45 for city walk around shots
and street.

I have a 12-24 that I should be fixing soon, and hopefully won't need
sent off for realignment. I got the aperture on my M 28mm 3.5 working
again and am finding it a joy to use. It still needs sent off for a
serious cleaning, but even with some dust and a bit of haze it is
still giving nice sharp contrasty images stopped down. I think I might
find another nice copy since they go for so cheap. I have an A50 1.7
that is razor sharp and an M 50 1.4 that is right up there with it,
but I prefer the contrasty rendering of the A lens for landscape
personally. If I could get an 18 and a 24mm prime for a reasonable
price, I could have an all prime setup with my 12-24 for wide angles.
Unfortunately 18 and 24mm lenses aren't plentiful or cheap for pentax.
So I will have to use a zoom to fill in some gaps there until I can
get rich and afford a 21 ltd.

Ok, sorry this is turning into a long ramble. My question is that how
do I deal with constant dust accumulating in my primes? Is this
something that's just to be expected and I should look at sending
lenses out every few years for cleanings? I have a nice tamron 60-300
sp that I eventually retired due to it becoming a dust pump and it has
loads of internal dust just after using it to shoot flowers for a few
months. Maybe the seals aren't very good in the lens anymore...too
bad, it was a sharp zoom that is unlikely worth the cost of cleaning.
I try to keep just keep my normal walk around lenses down to a minimum
for this reason. Hence why I was using the cheap fa 28-80 for a while
because I rather dislike the old 18-55 lens I have.

I'll just be down to a 28mm and a 50mm for a while it looks like, so
I'm trying to think about how I can better take care of my lenses or
maybe if I should just start accepting that they are going to get
dirty with constant use. I know a lot of you shoot in the outdoors and
I hate lens swapping outside in the dusty air, but when you shoot
outside all the time its kind of unavoidable. Especially with primes.
I use a rocket blower a lot and wet clean the sensor as needed. My
lack of a gear budget at the moment is really crimping my style. I
seriously need to get some focal lengths available again. :(




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Re: Geso the Iowa Mountains

2013-03-24 Thread Aahz Maruch
On Fri, Mar 22, 2013, Bruce Walker wrote:
> On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 11:53 AM, Don Guthrie  wrote:
>> 
>> Everyone knows IA is flatland & there are no mountains. However we do have
>> some beautiful river valleys. Some, like this one, lined with limestone.
>> Wonderful snow without human footprints make for a lovely non farm gallery.
>> C&C welcomed.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/valdon/sets/72157633054510914/
>
> Fine gallery, Don. I like the composition in 25874 in particular.

Yeah, that and the other bridge photo (25862) are my favorites.
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Re: Anyone using Triggertrap?

2013-03-24 Thread John Sessoms

From: mike wilson

On 22/03/2013 22:50, Brian Walters wrote:

G'day all

Triggertrap is a Smartphone app that, combined with a dongle that
connects your phone to the remote port of your camera, turns your phone
into a sophisticated intervalometer.  It looks as if it would be useful
for things like star trails.

Anyone tried it?

Details here:

https://triggertrap.com/products/triggertrap-mobile/




I bought the Pentax version of this.
http://www.7dayshop.com/7dayshop-timer-remote-control-for-olympus-ref-7dsmqtc9-overstock-special?backUrl=L3Bob3RvLXZpZGVvLXN1cHBsaWVzL2NhbWVyYS1hY2Nlc3Nvcmllcz9jYXQ9NTY3

Not stocked at the moment.


Also available as the Phottix TR-90 from Amazon and from some local 
independents (which is were I purchased mine). I think it's probably 
available under any number of brand names, but the one for Canon C6 is 
the one that works with my K20D/K10D.


http://www.amazon.com/Phottix-Multi-Function-Remote-Digital-Control/dp/B004U9IZF4

Adorama has it for $53. I got it for $40 from the local shop.

I used to have the Pentax Cable Switch 205, but the switch went flaky & 
stopped working.


I'm still looking for a switch that I can screw in an old fashion cable 
release and have the electrical contact inside to connect to the 2.5 mm 
plug. I've looked into making my own, but the problem has been finding a 
socket that the cable release will screw into & stay screwed in.


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Re: OT Really f*ck*ng annoying.

2013-03-24 Thread John Sessoms

From: mike wilson

On 24/03/2013 10:21, Bob W wrote:

From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of P.J. Alling

So I ordered an item Adorama through Amazon.  Paid by card, and gave
them my street address, as Adorama ships via UPS or FedEx, standard
delivery as I'm not in a hurry.  Everything seems to be going fine
until I realize the item hasn't moved since it arrived in North Haven.
Checking into I find that UPS has contracted with the USPS to deliver
packages!!!  Now I don't have a mail receptacle at my house, I have a
post office box.  UPS doesn't deliver to PO Boxes. The US mail won't
deliver to my house, no receptacle.  I think I'll scream.



it's the retailer's responsibility to get the thing to you. Tell them to use
a shipper who can actually be bothered to do what they're paid to do.


Only here, I suspect.  In the USA, if something you buy does not
function as required, you have to seek recourse from the manufacturer,
not the retailer.  It's probably the buyer's responsibility to make sure
something is delivered to them, as well.



It is the seller's responsibility to deliver. Especially if you PAID for
shipping & handling.

I ran into that UPS - USPS contract recently, although it worked to my
advantage. Something I ordered was shipped UPS Ground (or whatever they
call it now) and didn't arrive by Friday.

I was resigned to waiting for it until Monday, but Saturday morning
there was a knock on my door and there was the Postman with my package.
I've always preferred USPS over UPS. In my experience, they've always
been more reliable.

I would suggest checking with the Post Office that has your P.O.Box just
to see if they might have the package.

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Re: Anyone using Triggertrap?

2013-03-24 Thread Toine
Something like this:
http://www.repiuk.nl/images/_igp1275.jpg
http://www.repiuk.nl/images/_igp1271.jpg
It only works for the shutterbutton (the contact for half way
AF/camera on isn't available). It was sold by Hama in the last
century.

Toine

> I'm still looking for a switch that I can screw in an old fashion cable
> release and have the electrical contact inside to connect to the 2.5 mm
> plug. I've looked into making my own, but the problem has been finding a
> socket that the cable release will screw into & stay screwed in.
>

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Re: A few questions about lenses for those that shoot old primes....

2013-03-24 Thread Zos Xavius
Jesus! I thought I was rough on gear! :)

On Sun, Mar 24, 2013 at 11:54 AM, P.J. Alling
 wrote:
> You probably shouldn't ask me.  I tend to be a bit hard on my equipment...
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PDML/smcpa24filterring.html
>
>
> On 3/23/2013 7:15 PM, Zos Xavius wrote:
>>
>> I've done some testing and decided that my FA 28-80 was completely
>> decentered to the point of being unusable, especially over 50mm. I'm
>> guessing its likely the sloppiness in the barrelbad, bad, bad
>> design and construction... I have to stop down to f13 to get a usable
>> image that has ok sharpness across the frame. I'm going to retire this
>> one. For a basically free lens I can't really complain. Its been on my
>> camera pretty full time for a while now and I'm guessing I've just
>> knocked it around too much or something. I tend to be pretty hard on
>> gear and carry a camera pretty much full time, so it get exposed to
>> the elements on a daily basis. What I'm getting at is that I'm about
>> to switch to just fully using primes. I may get a 55-300 as that would
>> be useful and I think I still want a 16-45 for city walk around shots
>> and street.
>>
>> I have a 12-24 that I should be fixing soon, and hopefully won't need
>> sent off for realignment. I got the aperture on my M 28mm 3.5 working
>> again and am finding it a joy to use. It still needs sent off for a
>> serious cleaning, but even with some dust and a bit of haze it is
>> still giving nice sharp contrasty images stopped down. I think I might
>> find another nice copy since they go for so cheap. I have an A50 1.7
>> that is razor sharp and an M 50 1.4 that is right up there with it,
>> but I prefer the contrasty rendering of the A lens for landscape
>> personally. If I could get an 18 and a 24mm prime for a reasonable
>> price, I could have an all prime setup with my 12-24 for wide angles.
>> Unfortunately 18 and 24mm lenses aren't plentiful or cheap for pentax.
>> So I will have to use a zoom to fill in some gaps there until I can
>> get rich and afford a 21 ltd.
>>
>> Ok, sorry this is turning into a long ramble. My question is that how
>> do I deal with constant dust accumulating in my primes? Is this
>> something that's just to be expected and I should look at sending
>> lenses out every few years for cleanings? I have a nice tamron 60-300
>> sp that I eventually retired due to it becoming a dust pump and it has
>> loads of internal dust just after using it to shoot flowers for a few
>> months. Maybe the seals aren't very good in the lens anymore...too
>> bad, it was a sharp zoom that is unlikely worth the cost of cleaning.
>> I try to keep just keep my normal walk around lenses down to a minimum
>> for this reason. Hence why I was using the cheap fa 28-80 for a while
>> because I rather dislike the old 18-55 lens I have.
>>
>> I'll just be down to a 28mm and a 50mm for a while it looks like, so
>> I'm trying to think about how I can better take care of my lenses or
>> maybe if I should just start accepting that they are going to get
>> dirty with constant use. I know a lot of you shoot in the outdoors and
>> I hate lens swapping outside in the dusty air, but when you shoot
>> outside all the time its kind of unavoidable. Especially with primes.
>> I use a rocket blower a lot and wet clean the sensor as needed. My
>> lack of a gear budget at the moment is really crimping my style. I
>> seriously need to get some focal lengths available again. :(
>>
>
>
> --
> There are two kinds of computer users those who've experienced a hard drive
> failure, and those that will.
>
>
>
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PESO - Hoping to get noticed

2013-03-24 Thread Paul Stenquist
Two young males puff up their chests in the hope of attracting a young lady, 
while a Canadian watches warily. It's spring in Michigan.

http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=17077387&size=lg
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RE: PESO - Hoping to get noticed

2013-03-24 Thread Bob W
> From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of Paul Stenquist
> 
> Two young males puff up their chests in the hope of attracting a young
> lady, while a Canadian watches warily. It's spring in Michigan.
> 
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=17077387&size=lg

as a Cockney might say 'Good luck with the Donald Duck!'

B


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Re: Anyone using Triggertrap?

2013-03-24 Thread Walter Hamler
I would like you guys that have them to post some results as you get
them, please.
I ordered one to use with my IPAD and hope to use for some piggyback
astrophotos in the near future.

Walt

On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 5:50 PM, Brian Walters  wrote:
> G'day all
>
> Triggertrap is a Smartphone app that, combined with a dongle that connects
> your phone to the remote port of your camera, turns your phone into a
> sophisticated intervalometer.  It looks as if it would be useful for things
> like star trails.
>
> Anyone tried it?
>
> Details here:
>
> https://triggertrap.com/products/triggertrap-mobile/
>
>
> --
> Cheers
>
> Brian
>
> ++
> Brian Walters
> Western Sydney Australia
> http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/
>
>
>
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April PUG - This month's gentle reminder...

2013-03-24 Thread Brian Walters

G'day all

Four submissions so far.

Nominal closing date is March 31.

The details:

Theme: Precipitation

Submit here: http://pug.komkon.org/submit/

Submission Guidelines here: http://pug.komkon.org/general/autosubmit.html

The main requirements are:

* Max. pixel dimensions: 800 pixels on the longest side.
* Max file size: 300k
* Third party equipment is acceptable provided either the camera body  
or lens used is Pentax.
* If you embed a colour space in the image, it should be sRGB to  
ensure that the image is displayed correctly on line.


Come on.  You know you want to submit


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Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/



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Re: Gallery programming (was Re: PESO - Kodachrome 1976)

2013-03-24 Thread David Mann
On Mar 24, 2013, at 4:11 PM, Aahz Maruch  wrote:

> On Thu, Mar 21, 2013, David Mann wrote:
>> 
>> While the scanner does its thing I'm rewriting my old photo gallery
>> system from scratch and migrating the old data across.  I can't
>> believe I wrote such bad code :)
> 
> What programming language are you using?  (I've been in the process of
> upgrading my gallery code, written in Python.)

PHP 5, despite its weirdnesses :)  Pretty much everything I run on my server is 
PHP and I don't want to add more platforms to the mix if I can avoid it.  At my 
last job our server had PHP4, PHP5, Perl and Ruby On Rails and it was not a lot 
of fun to support.

Eventually we set up a new server with VMWare so we could separate all the 
insecure legacy sites onto their own instances and standardise our main server 
on a modern platform.  Made it a lot easier.

Cheers,
Dave


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Book recommendations on stock photography

2013-03-24 Thread Christine Aguila
Hi everyone:

Does anyone have any book recommendations that offer a comprehensive discussion 
on how to get into the stock photography business?  

Cheers, Christine 



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Re: GESO: Spring Visitors

2013-03-24 Thread Stan Halpin

On Mar 24, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Aahz Maruch wrote:

> On Thu, Mar 21, 2013, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:
>> On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 4:49 PM, Stan Halpin 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've been sidetracked from finishing up my Caribbean photos by some lovely
>>> birds arriving from the south. Here are three of the more colorful . . .
>>> 
>>> http://photos.stanhalpin.com/p764918074
> 
> Are you using a Bigma?
> 
>> Excellent gallery.  The Hooded Merganser is a gem.
> 
> Ditto on all that, especially the Hooded Merganser swimming in ice.
> -- 

Thanks Aahz.
The fifth shot, Wood Duck (which first showed up as a PESO a couple of weeks 
ago, then moved over into the GESO a couple of days ago) was with my Sigma 
150-500 which I think is not the lens you and some others refer to as a Bigma.  
The other four shots are with a Pentax DA* 300/4.0

stan


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PAW168 - Stairs

2013-03-24 Thread DagT
http://www.thrane.name/Pictures/PAW/files/page7-1000-full.html
Pentax K-5, DA70mm f/5.6, 1/100s, ISO100

DagT
http://www.thrane.name/


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Re: Book recommendations on stock photography

2013-03-24 Thread Paul Stenquist
I don't have any recommendations in regard to reading material. But I can tell 
you  that I once sold quite a bit of stock, and have watched the market 
collapse.  The internet has pretty much killed stock as a viable well for 
photographers to sell work  in that there are now billions of shots available 
for next to nothing. The only people I know who are making money on stock are 
the top Getty photographers. However, I haven't looked into it recently. Would 
love to hear that I'm wrong, but I doubt it.

Paul
On Mar 24, 2013, at 5:53 PM, Christine Aguila  wrote:

> Hi everyone:
> 
> Does anyone have any book recommendations that offer a comprehensive 
> discussion on how to get into the stock photography business?  
> 
> Cheers, Christine 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: A Classic American Race Car

2013-03-24 Thread Mark C
Great job, Paul - nice photo and good read. I love visiting the Henry 
Ford Museum, need to get there more often!


On 3/22/2013 11:07 AM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

I had some fun yesterday writing a piece for The Times about the Ford Mark IV 
GT40 that won the 1967 24 Hours of Le Mans in what amounted to a cakewalk. That 
win has to be considered one of the most significant of all time for an 
American race car. The occasion that inspired an article was some maintenance 
work on the car, which belongs to The Henry Ford Museum. My article is here:

http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/03/22/preserving-a-famous-american-racecar/

The Times only used one photo. (They were overwhelmed with other work and might 
add more later). So for the PDML, I posted the other pics that I got from The 
Henry Ford here:

http://photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=1050777

Paul



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Re: A few questions about lenses for those that shoot old primes....

2013-03-24 Thread Mark C
I have never had problems with dust accumulating in lenses, and I have 
several old primes. I guess if I take the brightest LED flashlight I 
have and shine it in the lens I will see some dust. MOre evidence that 
this  world is not perfect but nothing to get worried about.


Lenses *do* wear out. I wore out a an A* 200mm macro - the mechanics 
just plain wore out after hundreds of thousands of shots. Lenses are 
mechanical devices and all mechanical devices wear out. Second law of 
thermodynamics. Personally, I think that sending a lens out to be 
cleaned is both a waste of money (the net reuslts of the cleaning is 
likely to be minimal) and probably more damaging to the lens (the 
additional entropy introduced by taking the lens apart and putting it 
back together is probably worse that the accumulated entropy of the lens 
just gathering dust.) I clean my lenses regularly with a microfiber 
cloth, lens pen, sometimes with lens cleaning fluid. If I do something 
that causes concern - like dropping the lens a significant distance - I 
will send it in to get checked out. Cmaera bodies probably benefit more 
form CLA's than do lenses, but that rule applied more to old film bodies 
that one could reasonably expect to use for many years. Most digital 
bodies go obsolete and are replaced well before they need to be CLA'd.


but don't expect lenses to last forever. Mechanical components 
deteriorate. Lens elements separate. The adhesives used in 
multi-elements fog or get fungus, lots of things happen. When they go, 
toss em and get new ones.


Mark C

On 3/23/2013 7:15 PM, Zos Xavius wrote:

Ok, sorry this is turning into a long ramble. My question is that how
do I deal with constant dust accumulating in my primes? Is this
something that's just to be expected and I should look at sending
lenses out every few years for cleanings?



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Re: Book recommendations on stock photography

2013-03-24 Thread Christine Aguila
Thanks, Paul.  Good to know.  Cheers, Christine 



On Mar 24, 2013, at 5:36 PM, Paul Stenquist  wrote:

> I don't have any recommendations in regard to reading material. But I can 
> tell you  that I once sold quite a bit of stock, and have watched the market 
> collapse.  The internet has pretty much killed stock as a viable well for 
> photographers to sell work  in that there are now billions of shots available 
> for next to nothing. The only people I know who are making money on stock are 
> the top Getty photographers. However, I haven't looked into it recently. 
> Would love to hear that I'm wrong, but I doubt it.
> 
> Paul
> On Mar 24, 2013, at 5:53 PM, Christine Aguila  wrote:
> 
>> Hi everyone:
>> 
>> Does anyone have any book recommendations that offer a comprehensive 
>> discussion on how to get into the stock photography business?  
>> 
>> Cheers, Christine 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
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>> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and 
>> follow the directions.
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Re: Geso the Iowa Mountains

2013-03-24 Thread Mark C
Nice shots. I sued to take the northern route into Iowa when my mother 
lived in Waterloo - I90 to US 20. Northern Illinois and Iowa offered 
some very nice vistas.


On 3/22/2013 11:53 AM, Don Guthrie wrote:
Everyone knows IA is flatland & there are no mountains. However we do 
have some beautiful river valleys. Some, like this one, lined with 
limestone.  Wonderful snow without human footprints make for a lovely 
non farm gallery. C&C welcomed.




http://flic.kr/s/aHsjEqPCow

or

http://www.flickr.com/photos/valdon/sets/72157633054510914/




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Re: Gallery programming (was Re: PESO - Kodachrome 1976)

2013-03-24 Thread Bruce Walker
On Sun, Mar 24, 2013 at 5:42 PM, David Mann  wrote:
> On Mar 24, 2013, at 4:11 PM, Aahz Maruch  wrote:
>
>> On Thu, Mar 21, 2013, David Mann wrote:
>>>
>>> While the scanner does its thing I'm rewriting my old photo gallery
>>> system from scratch and migrating the old data across.  I can't
>>> believe I wrote such bad code :)
>>
>> What programming language are you using?  (I've been in the process of
>> upgrading my gallery code, written in Python.)
>
> PHP 5, despite its weirdnesses :)  Pretty much everything I run on my server 
> is PHP and I don't want to add more platforms to the mix if I can avoid it.  
> At my last job our server had PHP4, PHP5, Perl and Ruby On Rails and it was 
> not a lot of fun to support.
>
> Eventually we set up a new server with VMWare so we could separate all the 
> insecure legacy sites onto their own instances and standardise our main 
> server on a modern platform.  Made it a lot easier.

I certainly understand keeping it simple, but if I may I'd like to put
in a good word for Python. If you should ever get the chance to start
a new project from a clean slate and feel like exploring (and can
afford the time) try it with Python. The language itself is a model of
clarity and power and the support system around it (libraries,
classes, docs, websites, services, etc.) is unprecedented. Its ability
to support the creation of instant one-liners all the way up to large
multilayered apps is eye-opening.

I spent two years developing a Google App Engine hosted product in
Python -- I had not written a line of Python before I started. Any new
project I should ever undertake will most certainly be in Python. This
is from someone who has developed with PHP since 2000, and done web
sites in Bourne shell, PHP, Perl, and a scripting language peculiar to
Borderware (now Watchguard).

It's good stuff. :)

--
-bmw

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Re: PAW168 - Stairs

2013-03-24 Thread Bruce Walker
Dag, written in a spirit of honest, gut-feel critique: I find this
image to be technically interesting (ie the geometric placement of
elements, the colour and texture) but it fails to _engage_ me.

This may say more about me than the image. Feel free to ignore it. :-)

On Sun, Mar 24, 2013 at 6:35 PM, DagT  wrote:
> http://www.thrane.name/Pictures/PAW/files/page7-1000-full.html
> Pentax K-5, DA70mm f/5.6, 1/100s, ISO100
>
> DagT
> http://www.thrane.name/
>
>
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Re: Book recommendations on stock photography

2013-03-24 Thread Mark Roberts
Christine Aguila wrote:

>Hi everyone:
>
>Does anyone have any book recommendations that offer a comprehensive 
>discussion on how to get into the stock photography business?  

I imagine any book on that topic now would consist of a single word:
don't.
 
-- 
Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
www.robertstech.com





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RE: GESO: Spring Visitors

2013-03-24 Thread knarftheria...@gmail.com
I really miss getting down to the lake now that it's spring but hobbling down 
on crutches is out of.the question. 

Those are some wonderful photos, Stan! That first one looks a bit like a grebe 
but it is certainly not a red necked grebe like we have around these parts. 
What is it?

Like all the images a lot!

cheers,
frank

--- Original Message ---

From: Stan Halpin 
Sent: March 21, 2013 3/21/13
To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
Subject: GESO: Spring Visitors

I've been sidetracked from finishing up my Caribbean photos by some lovely 
birds arriving from the south. Here are three of the more colorful . . .

http://photos.stanhalpin.com/p764918074

Enjoy!

stan
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Re: A Classic American Race Car

2013-03-24 Thread Paul Stenquist
Thanks Mark. Ken and I talked about a trip to the museum when the Mark IV 
returns. I'll let you know.

Paul via phone

On Mar 24, 2013, at 6:36 PM, Mark C  wrote:

> Great job, Paul - nice photo and good read. I love visiting the Henry Ford 
> Museum, need to get there more often!
> 
> On 3/22/2013 11:07 AM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
>> I had some fun yesterday writing a piece for The Times about the Ford Mark 
>> IV GT40 that won the 1967 24 Hours of Le Mans in what amounted to a 
>> cakewalk. That win has to be considered one of the most significant of all 
>> time for an American race car. The occasion that inspired an article was 
>> some maintenance work on the car, which belongs to The Henry Ford Museum. My 
>> article is here:
>> 
>> http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/03/22/preserving-a-famous-american-racecar/
>> 
>> The Times only used one photo. (They were overwhelmed with other work and 
>> might add more later). So for the PDML, I posted the other pics that I got 
>> from The Henry Ford here:
>> 
>> http://photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=1050777
>> 
>> Paul
> 
> 
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Re: considering upgrading

2013-03-24 Thread Darren Addy
A link on the subject of K-30 vs K-5

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/post/42007067

Keep in mind that the K-5 was a flagship product, while the K-30 is a
high end entry level. The K-5 maintains the following advantages:
1) faster FPS burst
2) metal body
3) top lcd
4) a few more dedicated buttons
5) faster shutter speed 1/8000
6) wider EV compensation
7) provision for battery grip
8) 14 bit RAW
9) 80 - 51200 ISO
10) expanded bracketing choices
11) expanded user modes
12) wired remote port

The K-5 maintains a 1.1 EV dynamic range advantage over the K-30
(which is significant, IMHO). Better high ISO performance also.

I personally would not trade my K-5 for a brand new K-30 even if you
threw-in $500.

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Re: GESO: Spring Visitors

2013-03-24 Thread Paul Stenquist
A cheerful set. One of them is a wood duck I believe. Somewhat rare in these 
parts.

Paul
On Mar 24, 2013, at 8:10 PM, knarftheria...@gmail.com wrote:

> I really miss getting down to the lake now that it's spring but hobbling down 
> on crutches is out of.the question. 
> 
> Those are some wonderful photos, Stan! That first one looks a bit like a 
> grebe but it is certainly not a red necked grebe like we have around these 
> parts. What is it?
> 
> Like all the images a lot!
> 
> cheers,
> frank
> 
> --- Original Message ---
> 
> From: Stan Halpin 
> Sent: March 21, 2013 3/21/13
> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
> Subject: GESO: Spring Visitors
> 
> I've been sidetracked from finishing up my Caribbean photos by some lovely 
> birds arriving from the south. Here are three of the more colorful . . .
> 
> http://photos.stanhalpin.com/p764918074
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> stan
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Re: Anyone using Triggertrap?

2013-03-24 Thread Brian Walters

Quoting Walter Hamler :


I would like you guys that have them to post some results as you get
them, please.
I ordered one to use with my IPAD and hope to use for some piggyback
astrophotos in the near future.




Based on Mike W's input, I've just ordered this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251224714008

So, I've put Triggertrap on hold for now.  I'll look at it again when  
the Android version catches up with the iPhone version in terms of  
features (or if the one I've ordered carks)



Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/



Walt

On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 5:50 PM, Brian Walters  
 wrote:

G'day all

Triggertrap is a Smartphone app that, combined with a dongle that connects
your phone to the remote port of your camera, turns your phone into a
sophisticated intervalometer.  It looks as if it would be useful for things
like star trails.

Anyone tried it?

Details here:

https://triggertrap.com/products/triggertrap-mobile/




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