Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-26 Thread Larry Colen

On Sep 25, 2010, at 7:36 AM, Doug Franklin wrote:

 On 2010-09-24 21:47, Larry Colen wrote:
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:40 PM, Doug Franklin wrote:
 There's a corollary in racing:  a bad car offers the driver a lot more 
 opportunities to learn, but it's a lot less likely to win any given race.
 
 Most of what I learned was that I needed a better car.
 
 /A/ bad car, Larry, not necessarily /your/ bad car (or /mine/ for that 
 matter). :-)


For many years I campaigned a '68 Cortina in ITC.  It put about 55 hp to the 
ground, versus close to 100 for the Datsun 510s.  My suspension development on 
it was rudimentary at best. I had some great races to not finish in last place. 
And while they were great races, it was still last place. During my first shift 
of it's last race I realized that I was taking turn 4 at Sears Point with both 
inside wheels slightly off the ground. During my second shift (it was a four 
hour enduro and I drove first and last), I found that with a bit more speed, 
I'd just drift the two wheels on the ground. I needed a better car, there's 
only so much that you can learn from the back of the pack.

The handling problem from the misfitted sway bar didn't cause it to crash 
though, someone spun in front of me and I zigged when I should have zagged.

I collected some of my stories of it here:
http://www.red4est.com/lrc/foocarstories.txt

I did eventually get a better car, and racing was a lot more enjoyable.

 
 Another corollary in amateur racing: Going faster often just means hitting 
 the wall harder. ;-)

That's pretty much what I'd tell people signing up for track day schools.  Just 
drive some slow POS on street rubber. You learn more and aren't going as fast 
when you make a mistake.

 
 -- 
 Thanks,
 DougF (KG4LMZ)
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-26 Thread John Sessoms

From: Brian Walters

On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 13:39 -0400, P. J. Alling
webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote:

   On 9/25/2010 6:58 AM, John Sessoms wrote:

  From: Jeffery Smith

  I paid $35 for a Soligor 135, but that was in 1968.
 
   Jeffery On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 

   Albinar

 

 
  Paid $50 for a SMC-A 24f/2.8 ... 1980ish.
 
  Have to admit that at the time I didn't know any more than the guy at
  the pawn shop.
 

 Ignorance is sometimes an asset, if you;d know what it was he might of
 sensed it and refused to sell...



It's often worth checking out pawn shops.

A few years ago our local Cash Converters stocked a bit of interesting
camera gear, usually at an inflated price.  On one occasion I noticed a
Tamron ES adapter for the Adaptall system for $25.  As I'd been looking
for that adapter and the price was a bit less than what they bought on
EBay on the rare occasions that they appeared there, I was interested.
When I had a closer look, I found the adapter was attached to a Tamron
SP 1:3.5-3.8 24-48mm zoom - at which point I paid my $25 and walked out
of the shop as quickly as possible



I still look around in them occasionally, but don't often find any good 
deals.


I got an Auto 110 Super with flash, motor, 18, 24, 50,  70 lens from a 
pawnshop for $125 a couple years after I found that 24mm lens - 
different pawnshop, mid-80s.


Got a 1965 Fender blackface Vibrolux Reverb amp for $300 from a pawnshop 
one time - around 1990 or so.


Turned it on and it started whistling. Pawnshop guy says he's GOT to 
have $300 for it, 'cause that's what I got in it; took it to my VCR guy 
and he says get what you can; it's all tubes and they're obsolete.


So, I *reluctantly* paid him the $300 and took it off to a repair guy I 
know, who did a $50 cap job on it, and it was beautiful. Not a happy 
ending though, because I eventually let a musician friend talk me into 
selling it to him.


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-25 Thread John Sessoms

From: Jeffery Smith

I paid $35 for a Soligor 135, but that was in 1968.

 Jeffery On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:


 Albinar




Paid $50 for a SMC-A 24f/2.8 ... 1980ish.

Have to admit that at the time I didn't know any more than the guy at 
the pawn shop.


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-25 Thread Doug Franklin

On 2010-09-24 21:47, Larry Colen wrote:


On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:40 PM, Doug Franklin wrote:

There's a corollary in racing:  a bad car offers the driver a lot more 
opportunities to learn, but it's a lot less likely to win any given race.


Most of what I learned was that I needed a better car.


/A/ bad car, Larry, not necessarily /your/ bad car (or /mine/ for that 
matter). :-)


Another corollary in amateur racing: Going faster often just means 
hitting the wall harder. ;-)


--
Thanks,
DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-25 Thread P. J. Alling

 On 9/25/2010 6:58 AM, John Sessoms wrote:

From: Jeffery Smith

I paid $35 for a Soligor 135, but that was in 1968.

 Jeffery On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:


 Albinar




Paid $50 for a SMC-A 24f/2.8 ... 1980ish.

Have to admit that at the time I didn't know any more than the guy at 
the pawn shop.


Ignorance is sometimes an asset, if you;d know what it was he might of 
sensed it and refused to sell...


--
His lack of education is more than compensated for by his keenly developed moral 
bankruptcy.
 -Woody Allen


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-25 Thread John Francis
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 06:47:05PM -0700, Larry Colen wrote:
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:40 PM, Doug Franklin wrote:
 
  On 2010-09-24 19:42, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
  A rotten lens builds character and thoughtful technique; it also takes 
  rotten pictures.
  
  There's a corollary in racing:  a bad car offers the driver a lot more 
  opportunities to learn, but it's a lot less likely to win any given race.
 
 Most of what I learned was that I needed a better car.

In my experience the most expensive experience comes the first time
you get your hands on a better car/lens/whatever.

The most expensive lens purchase I ever made was my first piece of
good glass.  Not because the lens itself was very expensive, but
because it showed me that on some occasions I was limited by the
equipment I was using.  This started me on the slippery slope to
ever more expensive lenses.


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-25 Thread Brian Walters
On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 13:39 -0400, P. J. Alling
webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote:
   On 9/25/2010 6:58 AM, John Sessoms wrote:
  From: Jeffery Smith
  I paid $35 for a Soligor 135, but that was in 1968.
 
   Jeffery On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   Albinar
 
 
  Paid $50 for a SMC-A 24f/2.8 ... 1980ish.
 
  Have to admit that at the time I didn't know any more than the guy at 
  the pawn shop.
 
 Ignorance is sometimes an asset, if you;d know what it was he might of 
 sensed it and refused to sell...
 


It's often worth checking out pawn shops.

A few years ago our local Cash Converters stocked a bit of interesting
camera gear, usually at an inflated price.  On one occasion I noticed a
Tamron ES adapter for the Adaptall system for $25.  As I'd been looking
for that adapter and the price was a bit less than what they bought on
EBay on the rare occasions that they appeared there, I was interested. 
When I had a closer look, I found the adapter was attached to a Tamron
SP 1:3.5-3.8 24-48mm zoom - at which point I paid my $25 and walked out
of the shop as quickly as possible



Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://members.westnet.com.au/brianwal/SL/
-- 


-- 
http://www.fastmail.fm - Or how I learned to stop worrying and
  love email again


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RE: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread John Coyle
Bit late on this one Eric (crap computer repair cost me two days without
reading emails), but if you are still thinking of a medium range zoom either
of the Pentax 28-105 mm zooms(PZ or FA, but not Takumar) will do an
excellent job.  I had the PZ version, it got damaged beyond repair in a fall
and the insurance paid for the newer FA, which I find very good on both film
and digital.  You can manually focus either, but I tend to the view that
having the ability to autofocus if you wish to can't be bad, and there are
definitely some circumstances where it will be a plus.  
If, on the other hand, you are heading more to a prime lens, why not stay
with your SMC-A 28?

HTH


John Coyle
Brisbane, Australia



-Original Message-
From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of Eric
Weir
Sent: Thursday, 23 September 2010 3:41 AM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: More help for a novice


To my ist* DS, smc a 28mm f2.8, and smc a 70-210mm f4 I'm contemplating
adding either an smc a 35-70mm f4 [$80] or an smc a 35-105 f3.5 [$200], both
of which I understand are really good lenses. 

I'm not exactly rich. [If I hadn't been able to get what I've got for a
little over $300 -- and a licensed copy of Lightroom 3 for just under $120
-- I wouldn't be able to afford to get into digital photography.] Which lens
would you recommend?

Thanks in advance,

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread David J Brooks
On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 8:38 PM, Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net wrote:
. [I've got the *ist DS and an a 28 2.8. Also an m 50 1.7 and an m 100
f4 macro. Might change those for a versions if I get the opportunity.
But I'll sticking with just one for a while. Maybe the 28, and just
hold off on everything else altogether for a while.]

 Sincerely,

I have the A 28 f2.8 and use it a fair amount. It works well on the
istD and K10D.

Dave
 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 23, 2010, at 9:21 PM, frank theriault wrote:

 I'm guessing you may have looked at a few of my PESOs, but if you
 haven't, the blog can be found here:
 
 http://knarfdummyblog.blogspot.com/

Oh yeah, I loved the last one. And the monarchs, too.
 
 Believe me, if you will be focusing manually, you want a manual focus
 lens.  Your life will be s much easier...

I wouldn't have known -- as I said, I've never actually even held an autofocus 
lens -- so I appreciate the heads uo.

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 24, 2010, at 1:13 AM, Jeffery Smith wrote:

 What is your chosen genre of photograhy as of this moment? If it is buildings 
 or people, a 28 on a digitial with a 1.5x factor is splendid.

When I bought my K1000 back in 1990 I thought it would be 
landscape/wildlifle/nature. I was surprised to find myself interested in 
architecture. Not so surprised at people on the street, but it wasn't where I 
thought I was headed. At the moment my work brings me into contact with kids 
doing sports, e.g., refugee kids playing baseball for the first time in their 
lives. And the Olmsted Linear Parks that I mentioned in a recent post are 
bugging me. I'd like to learn how to photograph them. 

This weekend I'm headed up to North Georgia for a ForestWatch retreat. Recent 
surgery will keep me from getting out in the woods, so I imagine it will be 
mostly people there. [Faces interest me, especially interesting faces. [And who 
wouldn't be interested in interesting faces??]] But driving back Saturday 
evening I might get the opportunity to get in a few landscape shots. Probably 
not the best thing to attempt with a 28 or 50 mm lens, but following Stan's 
advice, that's what I'll be taking.

Bottom line? I guess I don't really have a genre yet. Any of the above are 
starting places. But I'm open.

Regards,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 24, 2010, at 3:52 AM, John Coyle wrote:

 . . . . if you are still thinking of a medium range zoom either
 of the Pentax 28-105 mm zooms(PZ or FA, but not Takumar) will do an
 excellent job.  I had the PZ version, it got damaged beyond repair in a fall
 and the insurance paid for the newer FA, which I find very good on both film
 and digital.  You can manually focus either, but I tend to the view that
 having the ability to autofocus if you wish to can't be bad, and there are
 definitely some circumstances where it will be a plus.

I can see that -- in the future. Wanna learn how to do photography first. Then 
I might know when it would be a plus.

 If, on the other hand, you are heading more to a prime lens, why not stay
 with your SMC-A 28?

That's where I'm headed. That or the 50mm f1.7 a I hope is still on sale at KEH.

Thanks,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:22 AM, David J Brooks wrote:

 I have the A 28 f2.8 and use it a fair amount. It works well on the
 istD and K10D.

Thanks, David. It's on my camera now. Maybe it'll stay there a while.

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Jeffery Smith
The 50 has a focal length = 75mm if you were using film (good for faces), and 
the 28 has a focal length = 42 if you were using film. I think that 43mm is 
what is considered to be 1:1 with your eye (that is, it is not being magnified 
nor is it wide angle), so a 28 and a 50 should cover most of your architecture 
and portrait needs.

Jeffery

On Sep 24, 2010, at 10:59 AM, Eric Weir wrote:

 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 1:13 AM, Jeffery Smith wrote:
 
 What is your chosen genre of photograhy as of this moment? If it is 
 buildings or people, a 28 on a digitial with a 1.5x factor is splendid.
 
 When I bought my K1000 back in 1990 I thought it would be 
 landscape/wildlifle/nature. I was surprised to find myself interested in 
 architecture. Not so surprised at people on the street, but it wasn't where I 
 thought I was headed. At the moment my work brings me into contact with kids 
 doing sports, e.g., refugee kids playing baseball for the first time in their 
 lives. And the Olmsted Linear Parks that I mentioned in a recent post are 
 bugging me. I'd like to learn how to photograph them. 
 
 This weekend I'm headed up to North Georgia for a ForestWatch retreat. Recent 
 surgery will keep me from getting out in the woods, so I imagine it will be 
 mostly people there. [Faces interest me, especially interesting faces. [And 
 who wouldn't be interested in interesting faces??]] But driving back Saturday 
 evening I might get the opportunity to get in a few landscape shots. Probably 
 not the best thing to attempt with a 28 or 50 mm lens, but following Stan's 
 advice, that's what I'll be taking.
 
 Bottom line? I guess I don't really have a genre yet. Any of the above are 
 starting places. But I'm open.
 
 Regards,
 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 24, 2010, at 2:33 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:

 The 50 has a focal length = 75mm if you were using film (good for faces), and 
 the 28 has a focal length = 42 if you were using film. I think that 43mm is 
 what is considered to be 1:1 with your eye (that is, it is not being 
 magnified nor is it wide angle), so a 28 and a 50 should cover most of your 
 architecture and portrait needs.

Thanks, Jeffrey. I guess I'm well set.

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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RE: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread J.C. O'Connell
In the old days it was a 28mm, 50mm, and a 135mm 
three lens set, all primes. you can do a lot with
that set and if you can afford another, I would lean
towards a 20mm for true wideangle work. A good 20mm
isnt going to be cheap though.

--
J.C. O'Connell (mailto:hifis...@gate.net)
Join the CD PLAYER  DISC Discussions :
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-Original Message-
From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of Eric
Weir
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 5:01 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: More help for a novice



On Sep 24, 2010, at 2:33 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:

 The 50 has a focal length = 75mm if you were using film (good for 
 faces), and the 28 has a focal length = 42 if you were using film. I 
 think that 43mm is what is considered to be 1:1 with your eye (that 
 is, it is not being magnified nor is it wide angle), so a 28 and a 50 
 should cover most of your architecture and portrait needs.

Thanks, Jeffrey. I guess I'm well set.


--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 24, 2010, at 5:10 PM, J.C. O'Connell wrote:

 In the old days it was a 28mm, 50mm, and a 135mm 
 three lens set, all primes. you can do a lot with
 that set and if you can afford another, I would lean
 towards a 20mm for true wideangle work. A good 20mm
 isnt going to be cheap though.


Thanks, J.C. Actually I do have a 135mm. But I gather it's not a very good one. 
It's an Albinar.

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread P. J. Alling
 A very long time ago I used to sell them.  They weren't horrible, but 
they made better ashtrays.


On 9/24/2010 6:40 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

On Sep 24, 2010, at 5:10 PM, J.C. O'Connell wrote:


In the old days it was a 28mm, 50mm, and a 135mm
three lens set, all primes. you can do a lot with
that set and if you can afford another, I would lean
towards a 20mm for true wideangle work. A good 20mm
isnt going to be cheap though.


Thanks, J.C. Actually I do have a 135mm. But I gather it's not a very good one. 
It's an Albinar.

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net








--
His lack of education is more than compensated for by his keenly developed moral 
bankruptcy.
 -Woody Allen


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:47 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

 On 9/24/2010 6:40 PM, Eric Weir wrote:
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 5:10 PM, J.C. O'Connell wrote:
 
 In the old days it was a 28mm, 50mm, and a 135mm
 three lens set, all primes. you can do a lot with
 that set and if you can afford another, I would lean
 towards a 20mm for true wideangle work. A good 20mm
 isnt going to be cheap though.
 
 Thanks, J.C. Actually I do have a 135mm. But I gather it's not a very good 
 one. It's an Albinar.
 
 A very long time ago I used to sell them.  They weren't horrible, but they 
 made better ashtrays.

I did have a clue. The price was $19.95. I figured what the hell. Back then I 
coulda afforded a lot better. Don't know what I was thinking of. 

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread drd1135
A rotten lens builds character and thoughtful technique; it also takes rotten 
pictures. 
-Original Message-
From: Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net
Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 19:05:11 
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: More help for a novice


On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:47 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

 On 9/24/2010 6:40 PM, Eric Weir wrote:
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 5:10 PM, J.C. O'Connell wrote:
 
 In the old days it was a 28mm, 50mm, and a 135mm
 three lens set, all primes. you can do a lot with
 that set and if you can afford another, I would lean
 towards a 20mm for true wideangle work. A good 20mm
 isnt going to be cheap though.
 
 Thanks, J.C. Actually I do have a 135mm. But I gather it's not a very good 
 one. It's an Albinar.
 
 A very long time ago I used to sell them.  They weren't horrible, but they 
 made better ashtrays.

I did have a clue. The price was $19.95. I figured what the hell. Back then I 
coulda afforded a lot better. Don't know what I was thinking of. 

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Jeffery Smith
I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.

Jeffery


On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 Albinar


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread drd1135
Oooh!  Let's talk about the Super Takumar 135 f2.5. That's always fun. 
-Original Message-
From: Jeffery Smith jsmith...@gmail.com
Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:45:18 
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: More help for a novice

I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.

Jeffery


On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 Albinar


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Jeffery Smith
Over the past 42 years, my progression of SLR brands has been Mamiya - Pentax 
- Nkon - Contax - Olympus - Pentax. I could have saved a lot of money by 
sticking with the Pentax.

Jeffery


On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:10 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 Oooh!  Let's talk about the Super Takumar 135 f2.5. That's always fun. 
 -Original Message-
 From: Jeffery Smith jsmith...@gmail.com
 Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
 Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:45:18 
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: More help for a novice
 
 I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.
 
 Jeffery
 
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Albinar
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread P. J. Alling
 Super Takumar?  or Takumar Bayonet the Super in m42 mount was 
probably, thought I have no direct experience, head and shoulders above 
the Takumar Bayonet as a picture taker.


On 9/24/2010 8:10 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

Oooh!  Let's talk about the Super Takumar 135 f2.5. That's always fun.
-Original Message-
From: Jeffery Smithjsmith...@gmail.com
Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:45:18
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: More help for a novice

I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.

Jeffery


On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:


Albinar





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bankruptcy.
 -Woody Allen


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Jeffery Smith
I think that SMC Takumars were M42 and they changed the name to SMC Pentax with 
the K mount.




On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:38 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

 Super Takumar?  or Takumar Bayonet the Super in m42 mount was probably, 
 thought I have no direct experience, head and shoulders above the Takumar 
 Bayonet as a picture taker.
 
 On 9/24/2010 8:10 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 Oooh!  Let's talk about the Super Takumar 135 f2.5. That's always fun.
 -Original Message-
 From: Jeffery Smithjsmith...@gmail.com
 Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
 Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:45:18
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: More help for a novice
 
 I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.
 
 Jeffery
 
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Albinar
 
 
 
 -- 
 His lack of education is more than compensated for by his keenly developed 
 moral bankruptcy.
 -Woody Allen
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread P. J. Alling
 Prior the SMC was the Super Takumar line, which I think was dual 
coated.  Then the Auto Takumars and the Plane ol' Takumars and prior to 
the m42 mount lenses there were the m37 Asahi Kogaku Takumar lenses for 
the Asahiflex.


On 9/24/2010 8:44 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:

I think that SMC Takumars were M42 and they changed the name to SMC Pentax with 
the K mount.




On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:38 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:


Super Takumar?  or Takumar Bayonet the Super in m42 mount was probably, thought 
I have no direct experience, head and shoulders above the Takumar Bayonet as a 
picture taker.

On 9/24/2010 8:10 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

Oooh!  Let's talk about the Super Takumar 135 f2.5. That's always fun.
-Original Message-
From: Jeffery Smithjsmith...@gmail.com
Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:45:18
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: More help for a novice

I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.

Jeffery


On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:


Albinar


--
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bankruptcy.
 -Woody Allen


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Larry Colen

On Sep 24, 2010, at 5:15 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:

 Over the past 42 years, my progression of SLR brands has been Mamiya - 
 Pentax - Nkon - Contax - Olympus - Pentax. I could have saved a lot of 
 money by sticking with the Pentax.

These days the biggest difference in performance between brands is when you buy 
the body.  The K-x has high ISO performance that exceeds flagship models of 
just a few years ago. In a few years, iPhones will have performance that 
exceeds that.

 
 Jeffery
 
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:10 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Oooh!  Let's talk about the Super Takumar 135 f2.5. That's always fun. 


I did a fair amount of shooting last weekend with the k-mount 135/2.5.  I don't 
think that it's quite as sharp as the 135/3.5 but that extra stop really helps.

You can pick the Pentax 135s up on fleabay for about $70.


 -Original Message-
 From: Jeffery Smith jsmith...@gmail.com
 Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
 Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:45:18 
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: More help for a novice
 
 I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.
 
 Jeffery
 
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Albinar
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Larry Colen

On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 A rotten lens builds character and thoughtful technique; it also takes rotten 
 pictures. 

someone has to Mark this.


 -Original Message-
 From: Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net
 Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
 Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 19:05:11 
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: More help for a novice
 
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:47 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:
 
 On 9/24/2010 6:40 PM, Eric Weir wrote:
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 5:10 PM, J.C. O'Connell wrote:
 
 In the old days it was a 28mm, 50mm, and a 135mm
 three lens set, all primes. you can do a lot with
 that set and if you can afford another, I would lean
 towards a 20mm for true wideangle work. A good 20mm
 isnt going to be cheap though.
 
 Thanks, J.C. Actually I do have a 135mm. But I gather it's not a very good 
 one. It's an Albinar.
 
 A very long time ago I used to sell them.  They weren't horrible, but they 
 made better ashtrays.
 
 I did have a clue. The price was $19.95. I figured what the hell. Back then I 
 coulda afforded a lot better. Don't know what I was thinking of. 
 
 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread P. J. Alling

 On 9/24/2010 8:56 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

On Sep 24, 2010, at 5:15 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:


Over the past 42 years, my progression of SLR brands has been Mamiya -  Pentax -  Nkon 
-  Contax -  Olympus -  Pentax. I could have saved a lot of money by sticking with 
the Pentax.

These days the biggest difference in performance between brands is when you buy 
the body.  The K-x has high ISO performance that exceeds flagship models of 
just a few years ago. In a few years, iPhones will have performance that 
exceeds that.


Jeffery


On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:10 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:


Oooh!  Let's talk about the Super Takumar 135 f2.5. That's always fun.


I did a fair amount of shooting last weekend with the k-mount 135/2.5.  I don't 
think that it's quite as sharp as the 135/3.5 but that extra stop really helps.

You can pick the Pentax 135s up on fleabay for about $70.


If you can get the SMC- Pentax [K] 135 f2.5 for $70.00 you've gotten 
quite a bargain.  If you pay that much for the Takumar Bayonet 135mm 
f2.5 you've been rooked.





-Original Message-
From: Jeffery Smithjsmith...@gmail.com
Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:45:18
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: More help for a novice

I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.

Jeffery


On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:


Albinar


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 -Woody Allen


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Jeffery Smith
I shot a play last night with the 77/1.8. It is a wonderful lens that performed 
very well in low light on my recently-acquired K-x. I will never regret getting 
the 31, 43, and 77 Pentax lenses. They have served me very well.

Jeffery


On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:56 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 5:15 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:
 
 Over the past 42 years, my progression of SLR brands has been Mamiya - 
 Pentax - Nkon - Contax - Olympus - Pentax. I could have saved a lot of 
 money by sticking with the Pentax.
 
 These days the biggest difference in performance between brands is when you 
 buy the body.  The K-x has high ISO performance that exceeds flagship models 
 of just a few years ago. In a few years, iPhones will have performance that 
 exceeds that.
 
 
 Jeffery
 
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:10 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Oooh!  Let's talk about the Super Takumar 135 f2.5. That's always fun. 
 
 
 I did a fair amount of shooting last weekend with the k-mount 135/2.5.  I 
 don't think that it's quite as sharp as the 135/3.5 but that extra stop 
 really helps.
 
 You can pick the Pentax 135s up on fleabay for about $70.
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Jeffery Smith jsmith...@gmail.com
 Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
 Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:45:18 
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: More help for a novice
 
 I paid $35 for a Soligor 135,  but that was in 1968.
 
 Jeffery
 
 
 On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Albinar
 
 
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 follow the directions.
 
 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Mark Roberts
Larry Colen wrote:

On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 A rotten lens builds character and thoughtful technique; it also takes 
 rotten pictures. 

someone has to Mark this.

Oh contraire. When a quotation as good as that one comes up no one
needs to Mark it. :)


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Larry Colen

On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:13 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:

 I shot a play last night with the 77/1.8. It is a wonderful lens that 
 performed very well in low light on my recently-acquired K-x. I will never 
 regret getting the 31, 43, and 77 Pentax lenses. They have served me very 
 well.

It seems that every time I look through my 77, it makes me smile. It is beyond 
a doubt my favorite lens.


--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Doug Franklin

On 2010-09-24 19:42, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

A rotten lens builds character and thoughtful technique; it also takes rotten 
pictures.


There's a corollary in racing:  a bad car offers the driver a lot more 
opportunities to learn, but it's a lot less likely to win any given race.


--
Thanks,
DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread Larry Colen

On Sep 24, 2010, at 6:40 PM, Doug Franklin wrote:

 On 2010-09-24 19:42, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 A rotten lens builds character and thoughtful technique; it also takes 
 rotten pictures.
 
 There's a corollary in racing:  a bad car offers the driver a lot more 
 opportunities to learn, but it's a lot less likely to win any given race.

Most of what I learned was that I needed a better car.

--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-24 Thread frank theriault
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 5:10 PM, J.C. O'Connell hifis...@gate.net wrote:
 In the old days it was a 28mm, 50mm, and a 135mm
 three lens set, all primes. you can do a lot with
 that set and if you can afford another, I would lean
 towards a 20mm for true wideangle work. A good 20mm
 isnt going to be cheap though.

Cartier-Bresson was mentioned earlier in this thread I think.

His kit was 35mm, 50mm, 90mm, with the majority of his photos shot
with the first two.  Once in a very rare while he shot with a 135mm.

He managed okay with those few lenses.

;-)

cheers,
frank

ps:  the above information came from his longtime developer, Pierre
Gassmann.  HCB didn't talk much about his equipment AFAIK.

-ft

-- 
Sharpness is a bourgeois concept.  -Henri Cartier-Bresson

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Bruce Walker

 On 10-09-22 5:50 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:58 PM, Cotty wrote:


On 22/9/10, Eric Weir, discombobulated, unleashed:


I don't have plans. I'm a novice. A RANK novice

You should have 2 items and two items only in your kit. An MX and a 50mm
f/1.4. That's it. For one year.

If you're learning, this is what you need to learn with. No zooms, no pixels.


Interesting. That's exactly where I was headed when I encountered this list. I 
have a K1000 SE, but there's something in the finder that I'm told will cost 
more than a replacement used camera to fix. I have a P3 and just bought a P3n 
today. [The film rewind mechanism on the former doesn't work properly; and I 
know that P3n's are not a fully mechanical, but they are a lot cheaper than 
MX's.]

That said, at the risk of insubordination, from where I stand now the cost of 
film and processing, and especially the disconnect between what I do and the 
results I get make me hesitant about going back to film completely, even 
temporarily.

That does not mean I am not open to guidance regarding this.

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net

P.S. I forgot to say that I have an Olympus XA which I was using exclusively 
until I got the ist* DS. My pattern was to shoot several rolls of film before 
getting them processed, by which time I had no idea what I'd done when I shot 
the pictures.


Back in the day (mid 1970's), I had a 35mm Praktica LTL (pretty much a 
Spotmatic clone afaict) and a 50mm f/1.8. Within a few years I became 
seriously bored with the whole film processing and waiting thing and 
completely lost interest in photography.


Some many years later, after dabbling with a couple of digital PS's, I 
got a K100Ds and my interest in photography was reignited in a big way.  
The ability to get instant feedback and do post-processing and printing 
in the digital domain means everything to me.  Film was what had killed 
my interest completely.


So I'd say for some the film SLR + 50mm prime is fine advice, but not 
for all.  There's no reason you can't slap that old 50mm f/1.4 + $20 
adapter onto your *istDS and learn just fine with that.  Far as I'm 
concerned film is obsolescent and unimportant except historically -- and 
good riddance.  But learning the basics using a stripped-down kit is 
still useful and a good idea.


-bmw

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Ken Waller

Keep checking KEH, they show up often.

I wonder about that Tak lens too.

Any experience out there ?

Kenneth Waller
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

- Original Message - 
From: Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net

Subject: Re: More help for a novice




On Sep 22, 2010, at 7:08 PM, Ken Waller wrote:

For my $44 USD (from KEH) you can't get a finer, more versatile lens in 
the 28-80mm range than the Pentax SMC F 1:3.5-4.5.


Thanks, Ken. Nothing at KEH. They have a 28-80 F3.5-4.5 Takumar F Macro 
and a 28-80 F3.5-4.7 SMC FA, but I take it neither is the lens you're 
talking about.


--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net



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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Steven Desjardins
KEH has a bargain A 50 1.7 for $79.  Given the quality that Bargain
means for KEH, this is an absolute steal.  It's a wonderful piece of
glass for next to nothing and will meter just fine on the Pentax
digital bodies.

On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 2:26 PM, Ken Waller kwal...@peoplepc.com wrote:
 Keep checking KEH, they show up often.

 I wonder about that Tak lens too.

 Any experience out there ?

 Kenneth Waller
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

 - Original Message - From: Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net
 Subject: Re: More help for a novice



 On Sep 22, 2010, at 7:08 PM, Ken Waller wrote:

 For my $44 USD (from KEH) you can't get a finer, more versatile lens in
 the 28-80mm range than the Pentax SMC F 1:3.5-4.5.

 Thanks, Ken. Nothing at KEH. They have a 28-80 F3.5-4.5 Takumar F Macro
 and a 28-80 F3.5-4.7 SMC FA, but I take it neither is the lens you're
 talking about.


 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread David J Brooks
On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 9:48 PM, Stan Halpin
s...@stans-photography.info wrote:
 When I came back to photography after a several year hiatus and some 
 flirtation with video, I moved from a ME-Super to a PZ-1p very fine autofocus 
 capable 35mm camera. The one new lens I bought was the PZ FA 28-105. It 
 was/is a very good lens. If/when you actually need a lens with a broad zoom 
 range, this is one to consider. Don't be put off by the gimmickry. After the 
 first day I never used any of the special modes others have described, and 
 seldom used the Power zoom feature. You can ignore all of that added stuff, 
 don't bypass such a quality lens if you you ever see one for a decent price.

Like i said.:-)

Dave

 stan


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 9:22 PM, John Sessoms wrote:

 On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:46 PM, Eric Weir wrote:
 
  . . . . just because they're autofocus I don't have to use them as 
  autofocus.
 Or would I?
 
 Not if you don't want to. Who's going to make you?

Thanks, John. I didn't think anybody'd make me, but being a rank amateur, who 
to the best of his ability cannot remember ever even holding an autofocus lens 
in his hand, I thought maybe it might be mechanically impossible.

--
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Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 9:22 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

 Between the 35-70 and the 35-105 -- well ...
 Neither.
 Some of the new DA  DAL lenses are both sharper and AF.
 And in the same price class.
 But if it must be one, the 35-105 would be my choice.

Thanks, Collin. I hear you. For now, though, I think I'm gonna take the advice, 
which I'm disposed to anyone, to keep the technology as simple as possible. 
Perhaps in the future I'll be able to tell a good lens from a not so good one 
myself.

Sincerely,
--
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Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 9:30 PM, frank theriault wrote:

 On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 9:22 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 From: Eric Weir
 
 On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:46 PM, Eric Weir wrote:
 
 . . . . just because they're autofocus I don't have to use them as
 autofocus.
 
 Or would I?
 
 Not if you don't want to. Who's going to make you?
 
 Well, yeah, but if you want to manual focus, get a manual focus lens.
 
 I've manually focused AF lenses (usually in low light) and it's not
 the preferred way of doing things.  MF lenses are nicely damped and
 because they have longer throws (if that's the word - I'm trying to
 say you have to rotate the rings more from one end of the focus range
 to the other) you can be much more precise.

Thanks very much, Frank. For now I think I want to focus manually. So this bit 
of information is helpful.

--
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Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 9:38 PM, Stan Halpin wrote:

 Concentrate on the photography, not on the lenses for now.
 
 Choose a single lens, preferably a fixed focal length lens. . . . use that 
 single lens for 5-10,000 images. Periodically review your images in 
 Lightroom. Don't just look at the good shots! Look at your rejects. Are you 
 rejecting many images because the composition is just too tight, because the 
 FOV was not wide enough to capture enough of the scene to tell the story you 
 wanted to tell? Then get a wider lens. Or are you rejecting images because 
 the (flower, football player, child playing, whatever) that was the subject 
 of your image is just too small within the overall image? Then get a longer 
 lens. Try to resist zoom lenses unless (a) you have physical problems that 
 keep you from easily moving your body as needed to change the composition; or 
 (b) you pay close conscious attention to the focal length you are zooming to 
 on each shot, and you take the opportunity to learn something about your own 
 preferences.

Thanks very much Stan. This, and the rest of your message, sits well with me. I 
really appreciate the wisdom. As you noted, I already have a few decent lenses 
to choose from. I may take the opportunity to change my m 50mm f1.7 and m 100mm 
f4 macro for a versions if they arise. Other than that I'll wait to see what 
what you recommend teaches me.

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 9:48 PM, Stan Halpin wrote:

 When I came back to photography after a several year hiatus and some 
 flirtation with video, I moved from a ME-Super to a PZ-1p very fine autofocus 
 capable 35mm camera. The one new lens I bought was the PZ FA 28-105. It 
 was/is a very good lens. If/when you actually need a lens with a broad zoom 
 range, this is one to consider. Don't be put off by the gimmickry. After the 
 first day I never used any of the special modes others have described, and 
 seldom used the Power zoom feature. You can ignore all of that added stuff, 
 don't bypass such a quality lens if you you ever see one for a decent price.

Thanks, Stan. But per your previous recommendation, I think I'll wait till I 
actually need it.

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 9:51 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:

 It's very difficult to find a better value, better versatility, better 
 optics, and better distortion control than a 50mm lens. Inasmuch as it 
 becomes the same view as a 75mm lens on a digital SLR, a 28-35 mm is the next 
 best thing. Look at the photos by Henri Cartier Bresson and Robert Capa, and 
 you'll how much can be done with a single focal length. Get to know one focal 
 length well, and you can do miracles with it.

Thanks, Jeffrey. Things are coming together for me here. I'm leaning in the 
direction you suggest. I really appreciate all the responses, though. They've 
all contributed to the clarification.  

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 10:42 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 MHO: get a cheap pentax digital body like an *istD or DS and an A50, maybe a 
 1.7. These are cheap and good lenses. Shoot lots of images. Look at them all, 
 decide which ones you like and think about why. Then decide what went wrong 
 with each pic and how you might fix it. You can learn more formally later. 
 It's better and more fun to be active at first. You'll have plenty of time 
 later to be picky. 

I like your HO. Thanks. [I've got the *ist DS and an a 28 2.8. Also an m 50 1.7 
and an m 100 f4 macro. Might change those for a versions if I get the 
opportunity. But I'll sticking with just one for a while. Maybe the 28, and 
just hold off on everything else altogether for a while.]

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

 On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 8:48 PM, Stan Halpin
 s...@stans-photography.info wrote:
 When I came back to photography after a several year hiatus and some 
 flirtation with video, I moved from a ME-Super to a PZ-1p very fine 
 autofocus capable 35mm camera. The one new lens I bought was the PZ FA 
 28-105. It was/is a very good lens. If/when you actually need a lens with a 
 broad zoom range, this is one to consider. Don't be put off by the 
 gimmickry. After the first day I never used any of the special modes others 
 have described, and seldom used the Power zoom feature. You can ignore all 
 of that added stuff, don't bypass such a quality lens if you you ever see 
 one for a decent price.

On Sep 22, 2010, at 11:27 PM, Bob Sullivan wrote:

 I'm with Stan on this.  When I bought a PZ-1, it came with a crappy PZ
 FA28-80.  I quickly gave up using it and went back to prime lenses.  3
 or so years ago, I got the PZ FA28-105 and was very pleased.  It's a
 good lens.  I wish that I would have bought the more expensive
 FA28-105 originally.  It would have improved my results considerably.
 Yes, the old lens had a power zoom feature.  Forget about it and just
 use the manual zoom.

Thanks, Bob. I'll keep it in mind. For now, I'll be taking Stan's other advice.

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 23, 2010, at 1:05 PM, Bruce Walker wrote:

 So I'd say for some the film SLR + 50mm prime is fine advice, but not for 
 all.  There's no reason you can't slap that old 50mm f/1.4 + $20 adapter onto 
 your *istDS and learn just fine with that.

Thanks, Bruce. I want to keep it as simple as possible, and to learn as much as 
possible, but I confess to being spoiled by the relatively immediate feedback 
-- plus the data you get on each shot -- of digital photography. It wasn't 
where I started back last December. I was gonna stick with film! 

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

 - Original Message - From: Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net
 
 Subject: Re: More help for a novice
 
 On Sep 22, 2010, at 7:08 PM, Ken Waller wrote:
 
 For my $44 USD (from KEH) you can't get a finer, more versatile lens in the 
 28-80mm range than the Pentax SMC F 1:3.5-4.5.
 
 Thanks, Ken. Nothing at KEH. They have a 28-80 F3.5-4.5 Takumar F Macro and 
 a 28-80 F3.5-4.7 SMC FA, but I take it neither is the lens you're talking 
 about.

On Sep 23, 2010, at 2:26 PM, Ken Waller wrote:

 Keep checking KEH, they show up often.

Thanks, Ken. For now I'm gonna go with Stan's suggestion of picking a lens -- a 
prime lens -- and sticking with it for a while. But I'm flagging your 
recommendation.

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 23, 2010, at 4:55 PM, Steven Desjardins wrote:

 KEH has a bargain A 50 1.7 for $79.  Given the quality that Bargain
 means for KEH, this is an absolute steal.  It's a wonderful piece of
 glass for next to nothing and will meter just fine on the Pentax
 digital bodies.

I may go for it, Steven. Thanks. Maybe I can get something for me M 50 1.7. 

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread drd1135
The *istDS is a camera near and dear to my heart. Went many places with me and 
always worked. 

BTW, I'm the drd1135-Steve Desjardins person. My computer and my phone can't 
agree on how to send my name. 
-Original Message-
From: Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net
Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:55:24 
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: More help for a novice


On Sep 23, 2010, at 4:55 PM, Steven Desjardins wrote:

 KEH has a bargain A 50 1.7 for $79.  Given the quality that Bargain
 means for KEH, this is an absolute steal.  It's a wonderful piece of
 glass for next to nothing and will meter just fine on the Pentax
 digital bodies.

I may go for it, Steven. Thanks. Maybe I can get something for me M 50 1.7. 

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread frank theriault
On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 8:10 PM, Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Thanks very much, Frank. For now I think I want to focus manually. So this 
 bit of information is helpful.

I manual focus all the time with my *istD.  Virtually all (if not
actually all) of my nature shots on my colour blog were shot with
manual focus lenses:

Pentax M 200mm f4.0,
Tokina 80-200mm f2.8 zoom
Sigma 50-200mm f3.5 zoom
Tamron SP 90mm f2.5 macro

 I'm guessing you may have looked at a few of my PESOs, but if you
haven't, the blog can be found here:

http://knarfdummyblog.blogspot.com/

Believe me, if you will be focusing manually, you want a manual focus
lens.  Your life will be s much easier...

;-)

cheers,
frank


-- 
Sharpness is a bourgeois concept.  -Henri Cartier-Bresson

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 23, 2010, at 9:05 PM, drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 The *istDS is a camera near and dear to my heart. Went many places with me 
 and always worked. 

I think I might become as fond of mine as I was of my K1000. It less than 4000 
images on it when I got it for not quite $180.

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread drd1135
That's a wonderful sentiment, Frank, especially given your signature ;-). 

Seriously, I have noticed that particular aspect of your work has changed in 
recent years. Henri is no doubt gyrating in his crypt. 
-Original Message-
From: frank theriault knarftheria...@gmail.com
Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 21:21:26 
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: More help for a novice

On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 8:10 PM, Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Thanks very much, Frank. For now I think I want to focus manually. So this 
 bit of information is helpful.

I manual focus all the time with my *istD.  Virtually all (if not
actually all) of my nature shots on my colour blog were shot with
manual focus lenses:

Pentax M 200mm f4.0,
Tokina 80-200mm f2.8 zoom
Sigma 50-200mm f3.5 zoom
Tamron SP 90mm f2.5 macro

 I'm guessing you may have looked at a few of my PESOs, but if you
haven't, the blog can be found here:

http://knarfdummyblog.blogspot.com/

Believe me, if you will be focusing manually, you want a manual focus
lens.  Your life will be s much easier...

;-)

cheers,
frank


-- 
Sharpness is a bourgeois concept.  -Henri Cartier-Bresson

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread frank theriault
On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 9:32 PM,  drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 That's a wonderful sentiment, Frank, especially given your signature ;-).

 Seriously, I have noticed that particular aspect of your work has changed in 
 recent years. Henri is no doubt gyrating in his crypt.

I think switching to digital was the catalyst of that change.  When I
shoot film these days, I still get blur.

Go figure, eh?

cheers,
frank

-- 
Sharpness is a bourgeois concept.  -Henri Cartier-Bresson

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-23 Thread Jeffery Smith
I just shot 5 gb of a play at the college. Good lens, cheap body. Hope I can 
salvage some shots. Used a 77/1.8 Pentax, low light.

What is your chosen genre of photograhy as of this moment? If it is buildings 
or people, a 28 on a digitial with a 1.5x factor is splendid.

Jeffery
On Sep 23, 2010, at 7:34 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

 
 On Sep 22, 2010, at 9:51 PM, Jeffery Smith wrote:
 
 It's very difficult to find a better value, better versatility, better 
 optics, and better distortion control than a 50mm lens. Inasmuch as it 
 becomes the same view as a 75mm lens on a digital SLR, a 28-35 mm is the 
 next best thing. Look at the photos by Henri Cartier Bresson and Robert 
 Capa, and you'll how much can be done with a single focal length. Get to 
 know one focal length well, and you can do miracles with it.
 
 Thanks, Jeffrey. Things are coming together for me here. I'm leaning in the 
 direction you suggest. I really appreciate all the responses, though. They've 
 all contributed to the clarification.  
 
 Sincerely,
 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net
 
 
 
 
 
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RE: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Bob W
 To my ist* DS, smc a 28mm f2.8, and smc a 70-210mm f4 I'm contemplating
 adding either an smc a 35-70mm f4 [$80] or an smc a 35-105 f3.5 [$200],
both
 of which I understand are really good lenses.
 
 I'm not exactly rich. [If I hadn't been able to get what I've got for a
little over
 $300 -- and a licensed copy of Lightroom 3 for just under $120 -- I
wouldn't be
 able to afford to get into digital photography.] Which lens would you
 recommend?

that's quite a difficult question to answer without knowing how you plan to
use them. 

I used to have a 28/2, the 70-210/4 and the 35-105/3.5. I loved the 70-210/4
- fantastic lens. The 35-105/3.5 was a good performer but weighs a ton and I
found that I did not particularly enjoy using it. I'd bought it to bridge
that gap (old advertising slogan). I often looked at the A35-70/4 but it
felt rather plasticky compared to other lenses in that series, and I didn't
particularly like that zoom range. 

Bob  


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread David J Brooks
See if you can find the old PZ 28-105. I have one and it worked well on my istd.

Dave

On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 1:40 PM, Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 To my ist* DS, smc a 28mm f2.8, and smc a 70-210mm f4 I'm contemplating 
 adding either an smc a 35-70mm f4 [$80] or an smc a 35-105 f3.5 [$200], both 
 of which I understand are really good lenses.

 I'm not exactly rich. [If I hadn't been able to get what I've got for a 
 little over $300 -- and a licensed copy of Lightroom 3 for just under $120 -- 
 I wouldn't be able to afford to get into digital photography.] Which lens 
 would you recommend?

 Thanks in advance,
 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net





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Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
www.caughtinmotion.com
http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
York Region, Ontario, Canada

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread John Francis

I still have one (and a *ist-D, come to that).  It was the main
walk-around lens on my *ist-D until it inherited the kit lens that
came with my K10D and became my lightweight system (leaving the
battery grip at home).

If I remember what Godfrey posted correctly, he felt that the later
non-PZ 28-105 (f3.2 at the wide end, IIRC) was at least as good an
optical performer.  As that lens was also IF it might be a better
choice - the one thing I disliked about the PZ 28-105 was having to
adjust the polariser after changing subject distance.  It's bad
enough having to do that when switching between portrait  landscape
orientations; having to do it after focussing as well got to be a pain.

On the plus side, though, the 28-105 has a very usable close focus
capability, which makes it a good choice for shooting blossoms and
the like.


On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 01:50:49PM -0400, David J Brooks wrote:
 See if you can find the old PZ 28-105. I have one and it worked well on my 
 istd.
 
 Dave
 
 On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 1:40 PM, Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 
  To my ist* DS, smc a 28mm f2.8, and smc a 70-210mm f4 I'm contemplating 
  adding either an smc a 35-70mm f4 [$80] or an smc a 35-105 f3.5 [$200], 
  both of which I understand are really good lenses.
 
  I'm not exactly rich. [If I hadn't been able to get what I've got for a 
  little over $300 -- and a licensed copy of Lightroom 3 for just under $120 
  -- I wouldn't be able to afford to get into digital photography.] Which 
  lens would you recommend?
 
  Thanks in advance,
  --
  Eric Weir
  Decatur, GA ?USA
  eew...@bellsouth.net
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 1:50 PM, David J Brooks wrote:

 . . . PZ . . .

You forgot, David. I'm a novice. REALLY a novice. Never encountered PZ 
before. What is it? Is it on Stan Halpin's list?

Thanks,
--
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Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 1:47 PM, Bob W wrote:

 that's quite a difficult question to answer without knowing how you plan to
 use them. 

I don't have plans. I'm a novice. A RANK novice. I'm just trying to get a 
versatile set of lenses to cover whatever I might want to try as inexpensively 
as possible. At the moment the things that get my attention are action -- 
mostly little kids playing soccer -- and nature/landscape stuff. 

We have a string of parks here in Atlanta that were designed by Frederick Law 
Olmsted. I wrote an article about efforts to restore them a while back. [The 
restoration was just finished this summer.] They include deep woodsy areas and 
areas that are open with mature trees, sorta savanna-like. I'm drawn to them. I 
hear people here taking on projects. I might make learning to photograph them 
a project. 

Went out at dusk last night to the deep woodsy one -- Deep Dene it's called 
-- on my first attempt. Haven't had a chance to look at what I got very 
carefully, yet. Just in the camera's LCD. From that I can see I have a lot to 
learn about shooting in contrast conditions. But I knew that anyway.

 The 35-105/3.5 was a good performer but weighs a ton and I
 found that I did not particularly enjoy using it.

Yeah, I see it has a 67mm front lens.

 I often looked at the A35-70/4 but it
 felt rather plasticky compared to other lenses in that series, and I didn't
 particularly like that zoom range. 

Thanks for that bit of information.

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread John Francis
On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 02:53:41PM -0400, Eric Weir wrote:
 
 On Sep 22, 2010, at 1:50 PM, David J Brooks wrote:
 
  . . . PZ . . .
 
 You forgot, David. I'm a novice. REALLY a novice. Never encountered PZ 
 before. What is it? Is it on Stan Halpin's list?

Power Zoom.

A feature (or gimmick) that came out on one series of camera
bodies (the PZ-10/20/1) and some of the FA and FA* lenses.

Basically there is a motor in the lens that can operate the
zoom, so instead of rotating the zoom collar to directly zoom
the lens it becomes a multi-position spring-loaded switch that
zooms at different speeds depending on how far you twist it.

It's handy on long-focal-length zoom lenses, but it's not a
feature that would make me decide for or against any lens.

There were also a couple of trick modes, and an automatic
zoom of the lens to the most compact setting at power off.
I think I used one of the trick modes (zooming to maintain
a constant image size as the subject distance changed) on
a couple of occasions; as best I can recall I never used
the zoom during long exposure at all.

The most persistent legacy of the PZ lenses is the power
contacts on the mount to power the in-lens motor; the same
contacts are now used to provide power for the SDM lenses.


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RE: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread John Sessoms

From: Eric Weir

To my ist* DS, smc a 28mm f2.8, and smc a 70-210mm f4 I'm
contemplating adding either an smc a 35-70mm f4 [$80] or an smc a
35-105 f3.5 [$200], both of which I understand are really good
lenses.

I'm not exactly rich. [If I hadn't been able to get what I've got for
a little over $300 -- and a licensed copy of Lightroom 3 for just
under $120 -- I wouldn't be able to afford to get into digital
photography.] Which lens would you recommend?



Neither one of them excites me. I suggest looking at what KEH has to 
offer. They're right down there in your neck of the woods.


A quick look just now shows they're offering a 28-70 F4 SMC FA AL (52) 
35MM SLR AUTO FOCUS ZOOM WIDE ANGLE LENS in EX condition for $76.00


The way they list it, you'd probably have to purchase lens caps 
separately - about another $12.00


They list another 28-70 F4 SMC FA AL (52) *WITH CAPS* 35MM SLR AUTO 
FOCUS ZOOM WIDE ANGLE LENS - EX for $84.00


I think KEH rates their items VERY conservatively. Every lens I've ever 
bought from them arrived in a condition I'd have rated them one step 
higher on their scale, i.e. BGN lenses I bought could have passed for 
EX, EX lenses could have passed as EX+ or LN-.


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 3:37 PM, John Francis wrote:

 On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 02:53:41PM -0400, Eric Weir wrote:
 
 On Sep 22, 2010, at 1:50 PM, David J Brooks wrote:
 
 . . . PZ . . .
 
 You forgot, David. I'm a novice. REALLY a novice. Never encountered PZ 
 before. What is it? Is it on Stan Halpin's list?
 
 Power Zoom.

Thanks for the explanation, John. I can see how some of the trick zooms, like 
maintaining image size while subject distance changes, would be helpful, but I 
think I'll pass on this type of lens. I'm trying to keep my equipment set as 
simple and as close to manual as possible. Aperture priority is about as 
advanced as I want to get at this point.

My first purchase in getting back into photography at the end of last year was 
a crude Russian Smena Symbol. It was made in the millions during the later 
Soviet period. It provides five settings each for aperture and shutter speed 
and nothing else, not even film speed. I liked the way it made me think. A 
couple months after I bought it I lost it. I replaced it a couple months ago, 
but haven't done any shooting with it, yet.  

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:30 PM, John Sessoms wrote:

 Neither one of them excites me. I suggest looking at what KEH has to offer. 
 They're right down there in your neck of the woods.
 
 A quick look just now shows they're offering a 28-70 F4 SMC FA AL (52) 35MM 
 SLR AUTO FOCUS ZOOM WIDE ANGLE LENS in EX condition for $76.00
 
 The way they list it, you'd probably have to purchase lens caps separately - 
 about another $12.00
 
 They list another 28-70 F4 SMC FA AL (52) *WITH CAPS* 35MM SLR AUTO FOCUS 
 ZOOM WIDE ANGLE LENS - EX for $84.00

Thanks, John. I've bought everything so far off eBay, but the prices I quoted 
were from KEH. I usually don't look at the autofocus lenses. As I explained in 
my last response, I really am a novice, and I want to use equipment that makes 
me think about what I'm doing. 

These are good prices, though, and I guess just because they're autofocus I 
don't have to use them as autofocus. I'll check them out.

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:46 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

 . . . . just because they're autofocus I don't have to use them as autofocus.

Or would I?

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Decatur, GA  USA
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Cotty
On 22/9/10, Eric Weir, discombobulated, unleashed:

 Is it on Stan Halpin's list?

He does lean a bit after a glass of malt

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Cotty
On 22/9/10, Eric Weir, discombobulated, unleashed:

I don't have plans. I'm a novice. A RANK novice

You should have 2 items and two items only in your kit. An MX and a 50mm
f/1.4. That's it. For one year.

If you're learning, this is what you need to learn with. No zooms, no pixels.

If you're a good boy, after 6 months you're allowed a battery for the meter...

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Jeffery Smith
Ditto on KEH. I've only bought rangefinder cameras/lenses and TLRs from KEH, 
but they won't sell you a dog unless it is rated as UGLY. 

Jeffery
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread John Sessoms

From: Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 1:50 PM, David J Brooks wrote:


. . . PZ . . .

You forgot, David. I'm a novice. REALLY a novice. Never encountered
PZ before. What is it? Is it on Stan Halpin's list?



The PZ would actually be a FA 28-105 f/4-5.6. They were introduced at 
about the same time the Z/PZ series bodies were introduced.


I think the bodies were Z-series everywhere in the world except the U.S. 
where they were PZ-series. Same camera, different nomenclature.


They're on Stan's list as 28-105 f/4.0-5.6 FA (p), 28-105 f/4.0-5.6 FA 
(New)  28-105 mm f/3.2-4.5 (Newer)


The other source for Pentax K-mount information is Bojidar Dimitrov's 
Pentax K-Mount Page - it has pictures of the lenses for you to drool over.


http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/

Stan's page has hands-on user reviews, BDimitrov has technical specs.

FA 28-105 f/4-5.6:

http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/lenses/zooms/short/FA28-105f4-5.6-i.html

FA 28-105 f/3.2-4.5 AL [IF]:

http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/lenses/zooms/short/FA28-105f3.2-4.5.html

... that someone else recommended because the front element doesn't 
rotate while focusing.


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Doug Franklin

On 2010-09-22 17:09, Jeffery Smith wrote:

Ditto on KEH. I've only bought rangefinder cameras/lenses and TLRs from KEH, 
but they won't sell you a dog unless it is rated as UGLY.


I've had very good experiences with KEH.  That's where I got both the 
FA* 200/2.8 and the F* 300/4.5.  The 200 was rated BGN because the hood 
was a bit scuffed.  I never figured out why the 300 was rated BGN, 
because it was damned near pristine.  Well, the painted in lettering on 
the badge was flaking a little.


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Thanks,
DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:55 PM, Cotty wrote:

 On 22/9/10, Eric Weir, discombobulated, unleashed:
 
 Is it on Stan Halpin's list?
 
 He does lean a bit after a glass

Thanks for letting me know. I have been taking it as gospel.

--
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Decatur, GA  USA
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:58 PM, Cotty wrote:

 On 22/9/10, Eric Weir, discombobulated, unleashed:
 
 I don't have plans. I'm a novice. A RANK novice
 
 You should have 2 items and two items only in your kit. An MX and a 50mm
 f/1.4. That's it. For one year.
 
 If you're learning, this is what you need to learn with. No zooms, no pixels.
 
 If you're a good boy, after 6 months you're all

Interesting. That's exactly where I was headed when I encountered this list. I 
have a K1000 SE, but there's something in the finder that I'm told will cost 
more than a replacement used camera to fix. I have a P3 and just bought a P3n 
today. [The film rewind mechanism on the former doesn't work properly; and I 
know that P3n's are not a fully mechanical, but they are a lot cheaper than 
MX's.]

That said, at the risk of insubordination, from where I stand now the cost of 
film and processing, and especially the disconnect between what I do and the 
results I get make me hesitant about going back to film completely, even 
temporarily.

That does not mean I am not open to guidance regarding this. 

Sincerely,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net

P.S. I forgot to say that I have an Olympus XA which I was using exclusively 
until I got the ist* DS. My pattern was to shoot several rolls of film before 
getting them processed, by which time I had no idea what I'd done when I shot 
the pictures.



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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 5:17 PM, Doug Franklin wrote:

 I've had very good experiences with KEH.  That's where I got both the FA* 
 200/2.8 and the F* 300/4.5.  The 200 was rated BGN because the hood was a bit 
 scuffed.  I never figured out why the 300 was rated BGN, because it was 
 damned near pristine.  Well, the painted in lettering on the badge was 
 flaking a little.

Thanks, Doug -- and others who've vouched for KEH. 

--
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Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread David J Brooks
On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 4:49 PM, Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:46 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

 . . . . just because they're autofocus I don't have to use them as autofocus.

 Or would I?

Nope, use either way.

I find the 28-105 has more CA on the K10D than the istD. Mostly on old
barns with tin roofs. Just an fyi

Dave

 --
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 Decatur, GA  USA
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

This was returned to me identified as having been blocked as spam somewhere 
along the way. Hope it gets through this time.

On Sep 22, 2010, at 5:12 PM, John Sessoms wrote:

 The PZ would actually be a FA 28-105 f/4-5.6. . . .
 
 They're on Stan's list as 28-105 f/4.0-5.6 FA (p), 28-105 f/4.0-5.6 FA (New) 
  28-105 mm f/3.2-4.5 (Newer)
 
 The other source for Pentax K-mount information is Bojidar Dimitrov's Pentax 
 K-Mount Page - it has pictures of the lenses for you to drool over.

I'm familiar with it. I won't say it's too technical for me -- how will I learn 
if I turn my back on the kind of information it provides? -- but at this point 
I'm only able to make limited sense of what it provides. 

 http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/lenses/zooms/short/FA28-105f3.2-4.5.html
 
 ... that someone else recommended because the front element doesn't rotate 
 while focusing.

Missed that. I'll check it out. 

Thanks Joahn. 
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net






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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Ken Waller
For my $44 USD (from KEH) you can't get a finer, more versatile lens in the 
28-80mm range than the Pentax SMC F 1:3.5-4.5.


I've had one for 22 years and its never let me down.

Kenneth Waller
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

- Original Message - 
From: Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net

Subject: More help for a novice




To my ist* DS, smc a 28mm f2.8, and smc a 70-210mm f4 I'm contemplating 
adding either an smc a 35-70mm f4 [$80] or an smc a 35-105 f3.5 [$200], 
both of which I understand are really good lenses.


I'm not exactly rich. [If I hadn't been able to get what I've got for a 
little over $300 -- and a licensed copy of Lightroom 3 for just under 
$120 -- I wouldn't be able to afford to get into digital photography.] 
Which lens would you recommend?


Thanks in advance,
--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net



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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Anthony Farr
I wouldn't bother with any short range zoom that only went to 35mm at
the short end.  It's really only a normal field of view, and the long
end of neither lens goes high enough to be worth the effort of
changing lenses.

I'd be looking for a fast 50mm (even f2 is 1.5 to 2 stops better than
the zooms you quoted) or any 85mm lens if you like portraiture or
performance from the edge of the stage.  If your preference is
close-up nature photography then think about a macro lens, some of the
older Pentax-M and A series f4 macros must be getting quite cheap now.

regards, Anthony

   Of what use is lens and light
    to those who lack in mind and sight
                                               (Anon)



On 23 September 2010 03:40, Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 To my ist* DS, smc a 28mm f2.8, and smc a 70-210mm f4 I'm contemplating 
 adding either an smc a 35-70mm f4 [$80] or an smc a 35-105 f3.5 [$200], both 
 of which I understand are really good lenses.

 I'm not exactly rich. [If I hadn't been able to get what I've got for a 
 little over $300 -- and a licensed copy of Lightroom 3 for just under $120 -- 
 I wouldn't be able to afford to get into digital photography.] Which lens 
 would you recommend?

 Thanks in advance,
 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 7:08 PM, Ken Waller wrote:

 For my $44 USD (from KEH) you can't get a finer, more versatile lens in the 
 28-80mm range than the Pentax SMC F 1:3.5-4.5.

Thanks, Ken. Nothing at KEH. They have a 28-80 F3.5-4.5 Takumar F Macro and a 
28-80 F3.5-4.7 SMC FA, but I take it neither is the lens you're talking about.  

--
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 7:43 PM, Anthony Farr wrote:

 I'd be looking for a fast 50mm (even f2 is 1.5 to 2 stops better than
 the zooms you quoted) or any 85mm lens if you like portraiture or
 performance from the edge of the stage.  If your preference is
 close-up nature photography then think about a macro lens, some of the
 older Pentax-M and A series f4 macros must be getting quite cheap now.

Thanks, Anthany. Maybe I have all I need for the time being. In addition to the 
other lenses I mentioned, I have a 50mm f1.7 m and a 100mm f4 macro m. And with 
the P3n body that I mentioned purchasing today I'll be getting a 50mm f2.0 a. 
[Both for $40. Perhaps it'll be suggested that the P3n isn't worth it?] 

--
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Decatur, GA  USA
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Stan Halpin
It is all due to the slant of the deck. Hard to find good pirate captains these 
days . . .

stan

On Sep 22, 2010, at 3:55 PM, Cotty wrote:

 On 22/9/10, Eric Weir, discombobulated, unleashed:
 
 Is it on Stan Halpin's list?
 
 He does lean a bit after a glass of malt
 
 --
 
 
 Cheers,
  Cotty
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

To my ist* DS, smc a 28mm f2.8, and smc a 70-210mm f4 I'm contemplating 
adding either an smc a 35-70mm f4 [$80] or an smc a 35-105 f3.5 [$200], both 
of which I understand are really good lenses. 

I'm not exactly rich. [If I hadn't been able to get what I've got for a 
little over $300 -- and a licensed copy of Lightroom 3 for just under $120 
-- I wouldn't be able to afford to get into digital photography.] Which lens
would you recommend?

Thanks in advance,

Between the 35-70 and the 35-105 -- well ...
Neither.
Some of the new DA  DAL lenses are both sharper and AF.
And in the same price class.
But if it must be one, the 35-105 would be my choice.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 





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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread John Sessoms

From: Eric Weir

On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:46 PM, Eric Weir wrote:


 . . . . just because they're autofocus I don't have to use them as autofocus.

Or would I?


Not if you don't want to. Who's going to make you?

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread frank theriault
On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 9:22 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 From: Eric Weir

 On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:46 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

  . . . . just because they're autofocus I don't have to use them as
  autofocus.

 Or would I?

 Not if you don't want to. Who's going to make you?

Well, yeah, but if you want to manual focus, get a manual focus lens.

I've manually focused AF lenses (usually in low light) and it's not
the preferred way of doing things.  MF lenses are nicely damped and
because they have longer throws (if that's the word - I'm trying to
say you have to rotate the rings more from one end of the focus range
to the other) you can be much more precise.

cheers,
frank

-- 
Sharpness is a bourgeois concept.  -Henri Cartier-Bresson

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Stan Halpin

On Sep 22, 2010, at 7:04 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

 
 Thanks,  Maybe I have all I need for the time being. 
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net
 

Amen to that, brother! 
Cotty's suggestion for an MX plus one 50mm lens is a bit extreme, but has merit.
A basic truth in photography is that you can only put one lens on a camera at a 
time. Even a Pentax camera.
A corollary of this truth is that you cannot take pictures with lenses which 
are not mounted on your camera.
So, if you have multiple lenses, you have one mounted on your camera that you 
can use to take pictures, explore and learn about photography. And you have x 
others on a shelf at home or in a bag over your shoulder doing nothing but 
encouraging early signs of shoulder distress. So you see a photo op - do you 
take the picture, making do with the lens on the camera? Or fumble around 
trying to find the right lens for the situation? Hopefully the former. Which 
means that all of the extra lenses are redundant.
Concentrate on the photography, not on the lenses for now. 
Special situations call for special lenses, but most photographic situations 
you will encounter can be handled with one general purpose lens. Note how many 
of the really fine photographers on this list have a favored FOV and 
corresponding lens. Macro photography calls for a macro lens, but you can get 
very fine close-ups with a 50mm or 85mm lens. Sports photography seems to call 
for zoom lenses, but a medium-length tele will do just fine most of the time.
Choose a single lens, preferably a fixed focal length lens. On the 35mm system, 
when I was first learning, I had a 50mm and a 105mm lens. I later bought a 
135mm to complete the system.  Of the 3 lenses, the 105mm was used far more 
often than the other two combined.  Others prefer a 50mm or 35mm FOV. If I had 
to go with one lens today for use on my Pentax digital, it would be the 21mm, 
with a FOV close to the 35mm lens on a 35mm film camera. Do just a little 
experimentation, see what focal range suits YOU best, then use that single lens 
for 5-10,000 images. Periodically review your images in Lightroom. Don't just 
look at the good shots! Look at your rejects. Are you rejecting many images 
because the composition is just too tight, because the FOV was not wide enough 
to capture enough of the scene to tell the story you wanted to tell? Then get a 
wider lens. Or are you rejecting images because the (flower, football player, 
child playing, whatever) that was the subject of your image is just too small 
within the overall image? Then get a longer lens. Try to resist zoom lenses 
unless (a) you have physical problems that keep you from easily moving your 
body as needed to change the composition; or (b) you pay close conscious 
attention to the focal length you are zooming to on each shot, and you take the 
opportunity to learn something about your own preferences.

I own a bunch of lenses. Some I take with me if I am going to do candid shots 
in a city, others would be chosen if I were traveling through an unknown 
countryside. I have a macro kit and a bird watching kit. I can justify this 
extravagance because I have taken the time to think about and learn what my 
preferences are. Without that learning process, multiple lenses are just a 
distraction.

An analogy. I am a fairly decent amateur woodworker, with reasonably 
complicated furniture and cabinetry accomplished over the years. Recently I 
hired two carpenters to repair wood rot on window sills in my very old house. 
At one point one of them pulled out his portable selection of drill bits. My 
first thought was, wow, I need to buy a complete set like that! My second 
thought was but do I know enough to make effective use of them?

Another general principle is that it is a good thing to use the right tool for 
any given job. Don't pound nails with a wrench, use a hammer. But if you don't 
know what type of nail you will be driving, don't buy a full range of hammers; 
get one good general purpose tool, like a 50mm. You'll learn its limitations as 
you learn your own way of viewing the world, and then you can go buy some more 
tools. And learn some more. And the cycle never stops.

stan


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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Doug Franklin

On 2010-09-22 21:38, Stan Halpin wrote:


Amen to that, brother!
Cotty's suggestion for an MX plus one 50mm lens is a bit extreme, but has merit.


In the olden days before digital, my standard response to someone 
asking Eric's question would have been, don't buy lenses yet, buy film 
and developing (or darkroom gear) ... you'll learn faster.


--
Thanks,
DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Doug Franklin

On 2010-09-22 21:38, Stan Halpin wrote:


Another general principle is that it is a good thing to use the right tool for 
any given job.


Tools for men are like shoes for women.  Sometimes a crimson pump really 
is the only one that works. :-)


--
Thanks,
DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Stan Halpin
When I came back to photography after a several year hiatus and some flirtation 
with video, I moved from a ME-Super to a PZ-1p very fine autofocus capable 35mm 
camera. The one new lens I bought was the PZ FA 28-105. It was/is a very good 
lens. If/when you actually need a lens with a broad zoom range, this is one to 
consider. Don't be put off by the gimmickry. After the first day I never used 
any of the special modes others have described, and seldom used the Power zoom 
feature. You can ignore all of that added stuff, don't bypass such a quality 
lens if you you ever see one for a decent price.

stan

On Sep 22, 2010, at 3:41 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

 
 On Sep 22, 2010, at 3:37 PM, John Francis wrote:
 
 On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 02:53:41PM -0400, Eric Weir wrote:
 
 On Sep 22, 2010, at 1:50 PM, David J Brooks wrote:
 
 . . . PZ . . .
 
 You forgot, David. I'm a novice. REALLY a novice. Never encountered PZ 
 before. What is it? Is it on Stan Halpin's list?
 
 Power Zoom.
 
 Thanks for the explanation, John. I can see how some of the trick zooms, like 
 maintaining image size while subject distance changes, would be helpful, but 
 I think I'll pass on this type of lens. I'm trying to keep my equipment set 
 as simple and as close to manual as possible. Aperture priority is about as 
 advanced as I want to get at this point.
 
 My first purchase in getting back into photography at the end of last year 
 was a crude Russian Smena Symbol. It was made in the millions during the 
 later Soviet period. It provides five settings each for aperture and shutter 
 speed and nothing else, not even film speed. I liked the way it made me 
 think. A couple months after I bought it I lost it. I replaced it a couple 
 months ago, but haven't done any shooting with it, yet.  
 
 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Jeffery Smith
It's very difficult to find a better value, better versatility, better optics, 
and better distortion control than a 50mm lens. Inasmuch as it becomes the same 
view as a 75mm lens on a digital SLR, a 28-35 mm is the next best thing. Look 
at the photos by Henri Cartier Bresson and Robert Capa, and you'll how much can 
be done with a single focal length. Get to know one focal length well, and you 
can do miracles with it.

Jeffery


On Sep 22, 2010, at 8:44 PM, Doug Franklin wrote:

 On 2010-09-22 21:38, Stan Halpin wrote:
 
 Amen to that, brother!
 Cotty's suggestion for an MX plus one 50mm lens is a bit extreme, but has 
 merit.
 
 In the olden days before digital, my standard response to someone asking 
 Eric's question would have been, don't buy lenses yet, buy film and 
 developing (or darkroom gear) ... you'll learn faster.
 
 -- 
 Thanks,
 DougF (KG4LMZ)
 
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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread drd1135
MHO: get a cheap pentax digital body like an *istD or DS and an A50, maybe a 
1.7. These are cheap and good lenses. Shoot lots of images. Look at them all, 
decide which ones you like and think about why. Then decide what went wrong 
with each pic and how you might fix it. You can learn more formally later. It's 
better and more fun to be active at first. You'll have plenty of time later to 
be picky. 
-Original Message-
From: frank theriault knarftheria...@gmail.com
Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:30:09 
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail Listpdml@pdml.net
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: More help for a novice

On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 9:22 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 From: Eric Weir

 On Sep 22, 2010, at 4:46 PM, Eric Weir wrote:

  . . . . just because they're autofocus I don't have to use them as
  autofocus.

 Or would I?

 Not if you don't want to. Who's going to make you?

Well, yeah, but if you want to manual focus, get a manual focus lens.

I've manually focused AF lenses (usually in low light) and it's not
the preferred way of doing things.  MF lenses are nicely damped and
because they have longer throws (if that's the word - I'm trying to
say you have to rotate the rings more from one end of the focus range
to the other) you can be much more precise.

cheers,
frank

-- 
Sharpness is a bourgeois concept.  -Henri Cartier-Bresson

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Re: More help for a novice

2010-09-22 Thread Bob Sullivan
I'm with Stan on this.  When I bought a PZ-1, it came with a crappy PZ
FA28-80.  I quickly gave up using it and went back to prime lenses.  3
or so years ago, I got the PZ FA28-105 and was very pleased.  It's a
good lens.  I wish that I would have bought the more expensive
FA28-105 originally.  It would have improved my results considerably.
Yes, the old lens had a power zoom feature.  Forget about it and just
use the manual zoom.
Regards,  Bob S.

On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 8:48 PM, Stan Halpin
s...@stans-photography.info wrote:
 When I came back to photography after a several year hiatus and some 
 flirtation with video, I moved from a ME-Super to a PZ-1p very fine autofocus 
 capable 35mm camera. The one new lens I bought was the PZ FA 28-105. It 
 was/is a very good lens. If/when you actually need a lens with a broad zoom 
 range, this is one to consider. Don't be put off by the gimmickry. After the 
 first day I never used any of the special modes others have described, and 
 seldom used the Power zoom feature. You can ignore all of that added stuff, 
 don't bypass such a quality lens if you you ever see one for a decent price.

 stan

 On Sep 22, 2010, at 3:41 PM, Eric Weir wrote:


 On Sep 22, 2010, at 3:37 PM, John Francis wrote:

 On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 02:53:41PM -0400, Eric Weir wrote:

 On Sep 22, 2010, at 1:50 PM, David J Brooks wrote:

 . . . PZ . . .

 You forgot, David. I'm a novice. REALLY a novice. Never encountered PZ 
 before. What is it? Is it on Stan Halpin's list?

 Power Zoom.

 Thanks for the explanation, John. I can see how some of the trick zooms, 
 like maintaining image size while subject distance changes, would be 
 helpful, but I think I'll pass on this type of lens. I'm trying to keep my 
 equipment set as simple and as close to manual as possible. Aperture 
 priority is about as advanced as I want to get at this point.

 My first purchase in getting back into photography at the end of last year 
 was a crude Russian Smena Symbol. It was made in the millions during the 
 later Soviet period. It provides five settings each for aperture and shutter 
 speed and nothing else, not even film speed. I liked the way it made me 
 think. A couple months after I bought it I lost it. I replaced it a couple 
 months ago, but haven't done any shooting with it, yet.

 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA
 eew...@bellsouth.net





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