Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA (Update)

2015-07-31 Thread Mark C
As an update to this little saga -  the vendor of the most recent card 
that I purchased asked me to send some photos of the installation. So I 
reinstalled the card - and again it did not work - and I proceeded to 
get several snaps of it to document how it was installed. I then 
rebooted the PC... and the card came up working fine. Subsequent tests 
show that if the PC is off for an hour or more, the card will not be 
detected. But, once it has been powered up for a few minutes, a reboot 
results in the card being detected and functioning fine. Maybe it needs 
to "warm up" a bit before it will work??? I still think it is clearly 
defective.


But - having a sorta working USB 3.0 card makes me realize - USB 3.0 is 
really nice. I finally got to use the card reader I purchased and 
dumping a SDHC card is much much faster than my old USB 2.0 setup.


It's also good to know that the motherboard is functioning fine - the 
issue has been with the cards all along. So I have ordered card #4.


Thanks for all the suggestions and info - especially re duck tape.

Mark

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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-31 Thread Toine
Maybe they should have stocked more duck tape:

http://hansmiddendorp.nl/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/wilnis-doorbraak.jpg

In 2003 a dike started floating because it's made from peat. This year
several dikes made from peat face the same danger due to drought.

Toine

On 30 July 2015 at 19:42, Bob W-PDML  wrote:
> You guys need dijk tape to stop this sort of thing from happening all the 
> time:
>
> https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Brinker,_or_The_Silver_Skates#/media/File:Hans_Brinker_Madurodam.jpg
>
> B
>
>
>
>> On 30 Jul 2015, at 10:28, Toine  wrote:
>>
>> As a dutchman I enjoyed reading: "Cotton duck (from Dutch: doek)"
>> maybe I should call it doektape in the future.
>>
>>> On 29 July 2015 at 23:18, John  wrote:
 On 7/29/2015 12:39 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:

> On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
>
>
>
> Toine wrote:
>>
>> I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
>> http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg
>>
>> Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
>> restore airflow conditions like before.
>
>
> I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
> "duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on
> air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for
> that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.

 Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape
 is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water proof
 items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for
 transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in
 HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily
 waterproof, by a good number of years.
>>>
>>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape
>>>
>>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-30 Thread John

Modegreen is a recursive form of mondegreen.

Somewhere around here I still have several partial rolls of GSA cloth
tapes that fall within the "Duck Tape" universe.

They came in several flavors of green - ranging from an almost Kelly
Green suitable for St. Patrick's Day decorations to a 3 inch wide roll
of deep Olive Green that was supposedly chemical agent resistant. It
would stick to CARC on vehicles.

It was certainly resistant to chemical agent decontamination in training
exercises (where we used live Decon solutions, even though NOT live agents).

Also rolls in black and/or tan (sand).

Plus, somewhere I should still have the remnants of a 5,000 ft spool of
550 cord.


On 7/30/2015 12:51 PM, P.J. Alling wrote:

Shouldn't that be mondegreen?

Speaking of Duck Tape and Green.  I live about 35 miles from Electric
Boat in Groten/New London, and that facility at one time supplied it's
own Duck Tape, which was referred to as EB Green due to it's distinctive
color.  It was the Gold Standard of Duct tapes, much better than the
silvery stuff available commercially. There was actually sort of a black
market in it.  EB workers would take a roll home now and then and share
it with their friends. Not available any more, probably killed off by
cheep imitations, (just the regular silver stuff, colored green in
imitation).

On 7/30/2015 12:16 PM, John wrote:

It was interesting reading.

I first heard it called "Duct-tape" and thought "Duck Tape" was a
modegreen. Now I know that it was indeed originally "Duck" tape, only
referring to a different meaning of "duck".

Learn something new every day - try to anyway.

Although ...

For PDML purposes shouldn't it be Cormorant Tape?

On 7/30/2015 5:28 AM, Toine wrote:

As a dutchman I enjoyed reading: "Cotton duck (from Dutch: doek)"
maybe I should call it doektape in the future.

On 29 July 2015 at 23:18, John  wrote:

On 7/29/2015 12:39 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:


On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:




Toine wrote:


I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the
inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.



I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
"duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on
air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for
that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.



Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape
is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water
proof
items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for
transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in
HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily
waterproof, by a good number of years.



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck




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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-30 Thread Bob W-PDML
You guys need dijk tape to stop this sort of thing from happening all the time:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Brinker,_or_The_Silver_Skates#/media/File:Hans_Brinker_Madurodam.jpg

B



> On 30 Jul 2015, at 10:28, Toine  wrote:
> 
> As a dutchman I enjoyed reading: "Cotton duck (from Dutch: doek)"
> maybe I should call it doektape in the future.
> 
>> On 29 July 2015 at 23:18, John  wrote:
>>> On 7/29/2015 12:39 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:
>>> 
 On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
 
 
 
 Toine wrote:
> 
> I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
> http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg
> 
> Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
> restore airflow conditions like before.
 
 
 I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
 "duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on
 air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for
 that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.
>>> 
>>> Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape
>>> is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water proof
>>> items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for
>>> transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in
>>> HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily
>>> waterproof, by a good number of years.
>> 
>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape
>> 
>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck
>> 
>> 
>> --
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-30 Thread P.J. Alling

Shouldn't that be mondegreen?

Speaking of Duck Tape and Green.  I live about 35 miles from Electric 
Boat in Groten/New London, and that facility at one time supplied it's 
own Duck Tape, which was referred to as EB Green due to it's distinctive 
color.  It was the Gold Standard of Duct tapes, much better than the 
silvery stuff available commercially. There was actually sort of a black 
market in it.  EB workers would take a roll home now and then and share 
it with their friends. Not available any more, probably killed off by 
cheep imitations, (just the regular silver stuff, colored green in 
imitation).


On 7/30/2015 12:16 PM, John wrote:

It was interesting reading.

I first heard it called "Duct-tape" and thought "Duck Tape" was a
modegreen. Now I know that it was indeed originally "Duck" tape, only
referring to a different meaning of "duck".

Learn something new every day - try to anyway.

Although ...

For PDML purposes shouldn't it be Cormorant Tape?

On 7/30/2015 5:28 AM, Toine wrote:

As a dutchman I enjoyed reading: "Cotton duck (from Dutch: doek)"
maybe I should call it doektape in the future.

On 29 July 2015 at 23:18, John  wrote:

On 7/29/2015 12:39 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:


On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:




Toine wrote:


I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the 
inside to

restore airflow conditions like before.



I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
"duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on
air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for
that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.



Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape
is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water 
proof

items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for
transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in
HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily
waterproof, by a good number of years.



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck


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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-30 Thread P.J. Alling

Hum, Wikipedia, might be right.  Might not.

On 7/29/2015 5:18 PM, John wrote:

On 7/29/2015 12:39 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:

On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:



Toine wrote:

I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.


I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
"duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on
air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for
that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.



Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape
is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water proof
items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for
transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in
HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily
waterproof, by a good number of years.



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck





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immortality through not dying.
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-30 Thread John

It was interesting reading.

I first heard it called "Duct-tape" and thought "Duck Tape" was a
modegreen. Now I know that it was indeed originally "Duck" tape, only
referring to a different meaning of "duck".

Learn something new every day - try to anyway.

Although ...

For PDML purposes shouldn't it be Cormorant Tape?

On 7/30/2015 5:28 AM, Toine wrote:

As a dutchman I enjoyed reading: "Cotton duck (from Dutch: doek)"
maybe I should call it doektape in the future.

On 29 July 2015 at 23:18, John  wrote:

On 7/29/2015 12:39 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:


On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:




Toine wrote:


I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.



I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
"duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on
air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for
that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.



Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape
is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water proof
items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for
transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in
HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily
waterproof, by a good number of years.



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck


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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-30 Thread Toine
As a dutchman I enjoyed reading: "Cotton duck (from Dutch: doek)"
maybe I should call it doektape in the future.

On 29 July 2015 at 23:18, John  wrote:
> On 7/29/2015 12:39 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:
>>
>> On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Toine wrote:

 I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
 http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

 Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
 restore airflow conditions like before.
>>>
>>>
>>> I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
>>> "duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on
>>> air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for
>>> that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.
>>>
>>
>> Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape
>> is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water proof
>> items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for
>> transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in
>> HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily
>> waterproof, by a good number of years.
>>
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck
>
>
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-29 Thread John

On 7/29/2015 12:39 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:

On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:



Toine wrote:

I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.


I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
"duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on
air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for
that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.



Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape
is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water proof
items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for
transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in
HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily
waterproof, by a good number of years.



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck


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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-29 Thread John

https://tw-projects.s3.amazonaws.com/twduckbrand/prod/images/products/00-03023-01-resized_resized.jpg

On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:



Toine wrote:

I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.


I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
"duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on air
ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for that
job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.



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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-29 Thread John

I normally would have picked one up at the Tiger Direct store, but they
closed that too. That's why I recommend "your local computer geek shop".

Plus, if it's a *real* computer geek shop & they don't have it in stock,
they can make one for you.

On 7/29/2015 12:48 AM, P.J. Alling wrote:

RadioShack probably has it for quite a bit less.  Unfortunately due to
circumstances, RadioShacks have become somewhat hard to find, and may no
longer stock a full range of parts.

On 7/28/2015 11:41 AM, John wrote:

Check your local computer geek shop. They should have an over-priced
SATA to Molex connector.

On 7/27/2015 3:19 PM, Mark C wrote:

Thanks, Igor. I looked at your recommendation but it has a molex power
socket and I only have sata power plugs free in the case - I don't even
see any molex cables in there at all. I picked the first card because of
the sata power port, Inateck's good reputation, and also because it
included a sata power cord extension (which I found was not necessary.)
After that I just looked for NEC chipset and sata power socket, and
eventually also for ports in the needed orientation - those three
factors combined really limit available choices Maybe I'll try the
transcend card and get a sata to molex adapter (I was trying to keep
things simple but obviously have not been successful on that front.)


On 7/27/2015 1:46 PM, Igor PDML-StR wrote:



Hi Mark,
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
But why did you go for the more obscure cards and chipsets?
 I remember that I researched when I was buying, and Transcend card
that I suggested had a good compatibility record, and worked for me
even on WinXP:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/696114-REG/Transcend_TS_PDU3_2_Port_USB_3_


0_PCI.html
As far as I remember it has NEC/Renesas chipset.
(Although I see now somebody's comment complaining about drivers for
64-bit Windows, if you install correct drivers, it works just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/review/R346MKTNSV3FJM/ref=cm_cr_rev_detmd_pl?ie=UTF8&asin=B003MVJG8Q&cdForum=Fx190IO4NYDDUE&cdMsgID=Mx13H5WCW689GCR&cdMsgNo=3&cdPage=1&cdSort=oldest&cdThread=Tx73HNRBBX5BRR&store=electronics#Mx13H5WCW689GCR

)

Good luck!

Igor



Mark C Mon, 27 Jul 2015 08:51:57 -0700 wrote:

Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0
card:


Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
Windows. Returned.


Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by
Windows, driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that
could perform faster... but is physically incompatible with my case
(see the picture)


http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg



Card #3 - TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the
ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power
is connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when
power is NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in.
Probably needs power! I'm requesting a replacement and if that does
not work... to hell with it!


Gr.

Mark





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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-29 Thread Larry Colen



Mark C wrote:

Thanks, Larry - I am contemplating this. The other cards have the
connectors turned 90 degrees. The card that had the connectors that were
blocked by the case could be modified to fit in a low profile case - so
they rotated the connectors to decrease the footprint. I never
considered that they would not fit in my case and after purchasing the
card revisited the listing on Amazon and did not see any note about
needing a special case for the card. I do not have a grinder and I am
not sure that the cut and bend approach will work - so I think I need a
card with the slots in the right orientation.


You could pick up a file, or even a hacksaw, for a few dollars. Or, if 
you know anybody that plays with cars, they would have the requisite tools.


I don't suppose the same company has another version of the card with 
the usb slots rotated.




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the directions.


Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-29 Thread Mark C
Thanks - I have been giving that serious consideration since I have an 
excellent pair of tin snips on hand already.  But am not sure it would 
work. I would not only have to cut out enough for the USB plug to fit 
into the socket, but also would need to cut out enough for any plastic 
base around the plug and also accommodate the metal that I would have 
bend back from the expanded hole. I'm not sure it would be feasible - I 
think grinding would be needed if I decided to go with enlarging the 
slot, but even then I think it would encroach too much on the 
neighboring slots (and the video card has to be next to it since that is 
where the only PCIe x2 slot is.)  I really think the solution lies in 
getting a card with ports orientated in the right way.


On 7/28/2015 3:59 PM, Toine wrote:

I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.

On 27 July 2015 at 17:50, Mark C  wrote:

Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:

Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
Windows. Returned.

Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by Windows,
driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that could perform
faster... but is physically incompatible with my case (see the picture)

http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg

Card #3 -  TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the
ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power is
connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when power is
NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in. Probably needs power!
I'm requesting a replacement and if that does not work... to hell with it!

Gr.

Mark



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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread mike wilson
Bob told me that it was invented by an ex-patriot Yorshireman who
relocated to France and was granted nobility before the revolution.
Hence Duc T'Ape.  I think that's a bit fanciful.  Whoever heard of a
noble Yorkshireman?

On 28 July 2015 at 22:20, Mark Roberts  wrote:
> Larry Colen wrote:
>
>>I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is
>>"duct tape" not "duck tape".
>
> Wow. All this time I've thought it was "Duct Ape", a sort of primate
> that lives in central air conditioning systems.
>
> --
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> www.robertstech.com
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread John Francis
On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 02:09:49PM -0700, Larry Colen wrote:
> 
> 
> Toine wrote:
> >I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
> >http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg
> >
> >Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
> >restore airflow conditions like before.
> 
> I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is "duct
> tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on air ducts on
> HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for that job, but is
> pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.
> 
> -- 
> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est)

A true pedant, however, would point out that while the origin of the word is
no doubt from something intended for use on ducts, nowadays duck tape is an
accepted name (and even a brand name) for the product (at least in the USA).

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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread P.J. Alling
RadioShack probably has it for quite a bit less.  Unfortunately due to 
circumstances, RadioShacks have become somewhat hard to find, and may no 
longer stock a full range of parts.


On 7/28/2015 11:41 AM, John wrote:
Check your local computer geek shop. They should have an over-priced 
SATA to Molex connector.


On 7/27/2015 3:19 PM, Mark C wrote:

Thanks, Igor. I looked at your recommendation but it has a molex power
socket and I only have sata power plugs free in the case - I don't even
see any molex cables in there at all. I picked the first card because of
the sata power port, Inateck's good reputation, and also because it
included a sata power cord extension (which I found was not necessary.)
After that I just looked for NEC chipset and sata power socket, and
eventually also for ports in the needed orientation - those three
factors combined really limit available choices Maybe I'll try the
transcend card and get a sata to molex adapter (I was trying to keep
things simple but obviously have not been successful on that front.)


On 7/27/2015 1:46 PM, Igor PDML-StR wrote:



Hi Mark,
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
But why did you go for the more obscure cards and chipsets?
 I remember that I researched when I was buying, and Transcend card
that I suggested had a good compatibility record, and worked for me
even on WinXP:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/696114-REG/Transcend_TS_PDU3_2_Port_USB_3_ 



0_PCI.html
As far as I remember it has NEC/Renesas chipset.
(Although I see now somebody's comment complaining about drivers for
64-bit Windows, if you install correct drivers, it works just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/review/R346MKTNSV3FJM/ref=cm_cr_rev_detmd_pl?ie=UTF8&asin=B003MVJG8Q&cdForum=Fx190IO4NYDDUE&cdMsgID=Mx13H5WCW689GCR&cdMsgNo=3&cdPage=1&cdSort=oldest&cdThread=Tx73HNRBBX5BRR&store=electronics#Mx13H5WCW689GCR 


)

Good luck!

Igor



Mark C Mon, 27 Jul 2015 08:51:57 -0700 wrote:

Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 
card:



Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
Windows. Returned.


Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by
Windows, driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that
could perform faster... but is physically incompatible with my case
(see the picture)


http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg 




Card #3 - TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the
ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power
is connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when
power is NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in.
Probably needs power! I'm requesting a replacement and if that does
not work... to hell with it!


Gr.

Mark





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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread P.J. Alling

On 7/28/2015 5:09 PM, Larry Colen wrote:



Toine wrote:

I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.


I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is 
"duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on 
air ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for 
that job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.




Actually it's DUKW pronounced and often spelled "Duck" tape, duct tape 
is a different animal.  The original "Duck" tape was used to water proof 
items, such as ammunition boxes that were loaded on to DUKWs for 
transport over beaches during WWII.  It predates Duct tape. (used in 
HVAC installations). which is heat proof, but not necessarily 
waterproof, by a good number of years.


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immortality through not dying.
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Mark C
Thanks, Larry - I am contemplating this. The other cards have the 
connectors turned 90 degrees. The card that had the connectors that were 
blocked by the case could be modified to fit in a low profile case - so 
they rotated the connectors to decrease the footprint. I never 
considered that they would not fit in my case and after purchasing the 
card revisited the listing on Amazon and did not see any note about 
needing a special case for the card. I do not have a grinder and I am 
not sure that the cut and bend approach will work - so I think I need a 
card with the slots in the right orientation.


Mark



On 7/28/2015 1:47 PM, Larry Colen wrote:



Mark C wrote:

I have hung onto the working card so far, but I am a little concerned
about the prospect of metal filings in the case.


I don't know how usb connectors would fit in other cards in the same 
slot and not the one that works. If the hole is too small for the 
connectors on one card, it'll be too small with all of them. Unless 
they are turned 90 degrees I suppose.


This is a somewhat overcautious way of going about it:

Unplug the case.

Get a sheet of aluminum foil (unlike saran wrap it won't build up a 
static charge) and cover everything but the hole you want to grind out.


Grind the slot out wide enough.

Remove the aluminum foil in such a way that you don't drop swarf into 
the computer.


Take some canned air and blow the case out.

Plan B:

Take photos of everything.

Remove the mobo.

grind the slot

Blow the dust off the mobo.

Put things back, but neater than they had been run last time.

You may want to make sure you match up the sata cables with the same 
slots as before.


Plan B2:

Similar to above, but replace the mobo.

Plan C:

Take vice grips and bend the metal between the holes out of the way. 
It might take a couple of slight notches with a hacksaw, but would 
create less swarf.






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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Rick Womer
The things one learns on this group!


swarf (n): material (as metallic particles and abrasive fragments)
removed by a cutting or grinding tool.
Origin: probably from Middle English *swerf, from Old English
geswearf, gesweorf; akin to Old English sweorfan to file away.

Rick
http://photo.net/photos/RickW


On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 5:24 PM, Darren Addy  wrote:
> http://www.duckbrand.com/
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 4:09 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:
>>
>>
>> Toine wrote:
>>>
>>> I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
>>> http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg
>>>
>>> Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
>>> restore airflow conditions like before.
>>
>>
>> I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is "duct
>> tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on air ducts on
>> HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for that job, but is
>> pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.
>>
>> --
>> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est)
>>
>> --
>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
>> PDML@pdml.net
>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
>>
>> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and
>> follow the directions.
>
>
>
> --
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Darren Addy
http://www.duckbrand.com/

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 4:09 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:
>
>
> Toine wrote:
>>
>> I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
>> http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg
>>
>> Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
>> restore airflow conditions like before.
>
>
> I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is "duct
> tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on air ducts on
> HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for that job, but is
> pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.
>
> --
> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est)
>
> --
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> PDML@pdml.net
> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
>
> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and
> follow the directions.



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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Mark Roberts
Larry Colen wrote:

>I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is 
>"duct tape" not "duck tape".

Wow. All this time I've thought it was "Duct Ape", a sort of primate
that lives in central air conditioning systems.
 
-- 
Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
www.robertstech.com





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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Larry Colen



Toine wrote:

I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.


I realize that pedantry is almost unheard of on PDML, but the tape is 
"duct tape" not "duck tape".  It was originally invented for use on air 
ducts on HVAC systems.  It turns out that it does very poorly for that 
job, but is pretty good for lots of other stuff instead.


--
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Toine
I would cut the metal strips with a tin snip. something like:
http://german-hand-tools.com/images/066R-15-250_offen.jpg

Once the PCI card is inserted apply some duck tape from the inside to
restore airflow conditions like before.

On 27 July 2015 at 17:50, Mark C  wrote:
> Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:
>
> Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
> Windows. Returned.
>
> Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by Windows,
> driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that could perform
> faster... but is physically incompatible with my case (see the picture)
>
> http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg
>
> Card #3 -  TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the
> ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power is
> connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when power is
> NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in. Probably needs power!
> I'm requesting a replacement and if that does not work... to hell with it!
>
> Gr.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> http://www.avast.com
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Larry Colen



Mark C wrote:

I have hung onto the working card so far, but I am a little concerned
about the prospect of metal filings in the case.


I don't know how usb connectors would fit in other cards in the same 
slot and not the one that works. If the hole is too small for the 
connectors on one card, it'll be too small with all of them. Unless they 
are turned 90 degrees I suppose.


This is a somewhat overcautious way of going about it:

Unplug the case.

Get a sheet of aluminum foil (unlike saran wrap it won't build up a 
static charge) and cover everything but the hole you want to grind out.


Grind the slot out wide enough.

Remove the aluminum foil in such a way that you don't drop swarf into 
the computer.


Take some canned air and blow the case out.

Plan B:

Take photos of everything.

Remove the mobo.

grind the slot

Blow the dust off the mobo.

Put things back, but neater than they had been run last time.

You may want to make sure you match up the sata cables with the same 
slots as before.


Plan B2:

Similar to above, but replace the mobo.

Plan C:

Take vice grips and bend the metal between the holes out of the way. It 
might take a couple of slight notches with a hacksaw, but would create 
less swarf.



--
Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est)

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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread mike wilson
You could run a vacuum cleaner as you file.  With a suitable tube
extension to the locality, of course.

On 28 July 2015 at 16:39, Mark C  wrote:
> I have hung onto the working card so far, but I am a little concerned about
> the prospect of metal filings in the case.
>
>
> On 7/27/2015 2:05 PM, mike wilson wrote:
>>
>> Card 2 and some file work (or a Dremel if you are feeling idle) would
>> seem to be the answer.
>>
>> On 27 July 2015 at 16:50, Mark C  wrote:
>>>
>>> Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:
>>>
>>> Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
>>> Windows. Returned.
>>>
>>> Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by
>>> Windows,
>>> driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that could
>>> perform
>>> faster... but is physically incompatible with my case (see the picture)
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg
>>>
>>> Card #3 -  TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the
>>> ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power is
>>> connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when power
>>> is
>>> NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in. Probably needs
>>> power!
>>> I'm requesting a replacement and if that does not work... to hell with
>>> it!
>>>
>>> Gr.
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>> http://www.avast.com
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>>> follow the directions.
>
>
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread John
Check your local computer geek shop. They should have an over-priced 
SATA to Molex connector.


On 7/27/2015 3:19 PM, Mark C wrote:

Thanks, Igor. I looked at your recommendation but it has a molex power
socket and I only have sata power plugs free in the case - I don't even
see any molex cables in there at all. I picked the first card because of
the sata power port, Inateck's good reputation, and also because it
included a sata power cord extension (which I found was not necessary.)
After that I just looked for NEC chipset and sata power socket, and
eventually also for ports in the needed orientation - those three
factors combined really limit available choices Maybe I'll try the
transcend card and get a sata to molex adapter (I was trying to keep
things simple but obviously have not been successful on that front.)


On 7/27/2015 1:46 PM, Igor PDML-StR wrote:



Hi Mark,
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
But why did you go for the more obscure cards and chipsets?
 I remember that I researched when I was buying, and Transcend card
that I suggested had a good compatibility record, and worked for me
even on WinXP:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/696114-REG/Transcend_TS_PDU3_2_Port_USB_3_

0_PCI.html
As far as I remember it has NEC/Renesas chipset.
(Although I see now somebody's comment complaining about drivers for
64-bit Windows, if you install correct drivers, it works just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/review/R346MKTNSV3FJM/ref=cm_cr_rev_detmd_pl?ie=UTF8&asin=B003MVJG8Q&cdForum=Fx190IO4NYDDUE&cdMsgID=Mx13H5WCW689GCR&cdMsgNo=3&cdPage=1&cdSort=oldest&cdThread=Tx73HNRBBX5BRR&store=electronics#Mx13H5WCW689GCR
)

Good luck!

Igor



Mark C Mon, 27 Jul 2015 08:51:57 -0700 wrote:

Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:


Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
Windows. Returned.


Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by
Windows, driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that
could perform faster... but is physically incompatible with my case
(see the picture)


http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg


Card #3 - TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the
ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power
is connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when
power is NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in.
Probably needs power! I'm requesting a replacement and if that does
not work... to hell with it!


Gr.

Mark





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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Mark C
I have hung onto the working card so far, but I am a little concerned 
about the prospect of metal filings in the case.



On 7/27/2015 2:05 PM, mike wilson wrote:

Card 2 and some file work (or a Dremel if you are feeling idle) would
seem to be the answer.

On 27 July 2015 at 16:50, Mark C  wrote:

Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:

Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
Windows. Returned.

Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by Windows,
driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that could perform
faster... but is physically incompatible with my case (see the picture)

http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg

Card #3 -  TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the
ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power is
connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when power is
NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in. Probably needs power!
I'm requesting a replacement and if that does not work... to hell with it!

Gr.

Mark



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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-28 Thread Jan van Wijk
On Mon, 27 Jul 2015 11:50:47 -0400 Mark C wrote:
>
>Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by Windows, 
>driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that could perform 
>faster... but is physically incompatible with my 
case (see the picture)
>
>http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg

I would just file/grind some of that metal away and keep that card, 4 ports of 
USB 3.0  :)

Regards, JvW


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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread David Mann
Sorry to amuse myself at your expense but that photo is hilarious.

Cheers,
Dave

On Jul 28, 2015, at 3:50 am, Mark C  wrote:

> Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:
> 
> Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by 
> Windows. Returned.
> 
> Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by Windows, 
> driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that could perform 
> faster... but is physically incompatible with my case (see the picture)
> 
> http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg
> 
> Card #3 -  TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the ports 
> oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power is connected - 
> not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when power is NOT connected 
> but devices do not work when plugged in. Probably needs power! I'm requesting 
> a replacement and if that does not work... to hell with it!
> 
> Gr.
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> http://www.avast.com
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread Mark C
Yeah - even the DVD is a SATA device. I am hopeful since the second card 
was recognized by the system when it was powered up. I guess I could 
always get some tin snips and "modify" the case to gain access to the 
USB ports on it...


Mark

On 7/27/2015 4:22 PM, Igor PDML-StR wrote:


Mark, ghm...
I didn't think about that "catch", a PC power supply without any molex 
cables. But, it makes sense if you have only a few drives, and they 
are all SATA, and there are no CD/DVD-drives (and floppy-drives! ;-) )


And yes, you need the power for USB 3.0 that is not available from PCIe:
USB 3.0 calls for 5 V, 900 mA (4.5W).
This is not always needed in full if the HDD has its own power-supply, 
but it's a must if those are "mobile", USB-powered HDDs.
I don't remember PCIe specs and why the power cannot be drawn from it, 
maybe it is the voltage (5V) that is not available without a 
transformer from PCI-e x1.


Good luck!

Igor


 Mark C Mon, 27 Jul 2015 12:20:25 -0700 wrote:

Thanks, Igor. I looked at your recommendation but it has a molex power 
socket and I only have sata power plugs free in the case - I don't 
even see any molex cables in there at all. I picked the first card 
because of the sata power port, Inateck's good reputation, and also 
because it included a sata power cord extension (which I found was not 
necessary.) After that I just looked for NEC chipset and sata power 
socket, and eventually also for ports in the needed orientation - 
those three factors combined really limit available choices Maybe I'll 
try the transcend card and get a sata to molex adapter (I was trying 
to keep things simple but obviously have not been successful on that 
front.)







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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread Igor PDML-StR


Mark, ghm...
I didn't think about that "catch", a PC power supply without any molex 
cables. But, it makes sense if you have only a few drives, and they 
are all SATA, and there are no CD/DVD-drives (and floppy-drives! ;-) )


And yes, you need the power for USB 3.0 that is not available from PCIe:
USB 3.0 calls for 5 V, 900 mA (4.5W).
This is not always needed in full if the HDD has its own 
power-supply, but it's a must if those are "mobile", USB-powered HDDs.
I don't remember PCIe specs and why the power cannot be drawn from it, 
maybe it is the voltage (5V) that is not available without a transformer 
from PCI-e x1.


Good luck!

Igor


 Mark C Mon, 27 Jul 2015 12:20:25 -0700 wrote:

Thanks, Igor. I looked at your recommendation but it has a molex power 
socket and I only have sata power plugs free in the case - I don't even 
see any molex cables in there at all. I picked the first card because of 
the sata power port, Inateck's good reputation, and also because it 
included a sata power cord extension (which I found was not necessary.) 
After that I just looked for NEC chipset and sata power socket, and 
eventually also for ports in the needed orientation - those three factors 
combined really limit available choices Maybe I'll try the transcend card 
and get a sata to molex adapter (I was trying to keep things simple but 
obviously have not been successful on that front.)




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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread Mark C
"Re-importing manufacturing jobs via Ikea" - never thought of that but 
very true.



On 7/27/2015 1:50 PM, P.J. Alling wrote:
As with all current consumer electronics, the customer is the quality 
assurance department. Just as manufacturing jobs are partially 
re-imported to North America every time you buy IKEA, (or similar), 
furniture.


Your story reminds me of the MB I replaced recently that had three 
memory slots, but wouldn't recognize any memory at all if more than 
one was in use.


On 7/27/2015 11:50 AM, Mark C wrote:
Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 
card:


Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected 
by Windows. Returned.


Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by 
Windows, driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that 
could perform faster... but is physically incompatible with my case 
(see the picture)


http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg 



Card #3 -  TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with 
the ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA 
power is connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by 
Windows when power is NOT connected but devices do not work when 
plugged in. Probably needs power! I'm requesting a replacement and if 
that does not work... to hell with it!


Gr.

Mark



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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread Mark C
Thanks, Igor. I looked at your recommendation but it has a molex power 
socket and I only have sata power plugs free in the case - I don't even 
see any molex cables in there at all. I picked the first card because of 
the sata power port, Inateck's good reputation, and also because it 
included a sata power cord extension (which I found was not necessary.) 
After that I just looked for NEC chipset and sata power socket, and 
eventually also for ports in the needed orientation - those three 
factors combined really limit available choices Maybe I'll try the 
transcend card and get a sata to molex adapter (I was trying to keep 
things simple but obviously have not been successful on that front.)



On 7/27/2015 1:46 PM, Igor PDML-StR wrote:



Hi Mark,
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
But why did you go for the more obscure cards and chipsets?
 I remember that I researched when I was buying, and Transcend card 
that I suggested had a good compatibility record, and worked for me 
even on WinXP:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/696114-REG/Transcend_TS_PDU3_2_Port_USB_3_ 


0_PCI.html
As far as I remember it has NEC/Renesas chipset.
(Although I see now somebody's comment complaining about drivers for 
64-bit Windows, if you install correct drivers, it works just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/review/R346MKTNSV3FJM/ref=cm_cr_rev_detmd_pl?ie=UTF8&asin=B003MVJG8Q&cdForum=Fx190IO4NYDDUE&cdMsgID=Mx13H5WCW689GCR&cdMsgNo=3&cdPage=1&cdSort=oldest&cdThread=Tx73HNRBBX5BRR&store=electronics#Mx13H5WCW689GCR 
)


Good luck!

Igor



Mark C Mon, 27 Jul 2015 08:51:57 -0700 wrote:

Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:


Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by 
Windows. Returned.



Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by 
Windows, driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that 
could perform faster... but is physically incompatible with my case 
(see the picture)



http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg 



Card #3 - TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the 
ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power 
is connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when 
power is NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in. 
Probably needs power! I'm requesting a replacement and if that does 
not work... to hell with it!



Gr.

Mark





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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread Mark C
Yep - downloaded the updated drivers (the CD had slightly older drivers 
on it) and also tried the generic drivers from Fresco. Inateck's support 
department was first rate - I emailed them on Saturday and they replied 
on Sunday afternoon.  There were comments on Amazon from people who 
tried the card and had the same experience as I did, so I wonder if 
there was a compatibility issue with the card and certain chipsets, but 
Inteck said that it should work in my system.


On 7/27/2015 1:20 PM, Matthew Hunt wrote:

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 11:50 AM, Mark C  wrote:


Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
Windows. Returned.

I know it's too late... but did you download drivers?

http://www.inateck.com/support/




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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread mike wilson
Card 2 and some file work (or a Dremel if you are feeling idle) would
seem to be the answer.

On 27 July 2015 at 16:50, Mark C  wrote:
> Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:
>
> Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
> Windows. Returned.
>
> Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by Windows,
> driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that could perform
> faster... but is physically incompatible with my case (see the picture)
>
> http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg
>
> Card #3 -  TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with the
> ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA power is
> connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows when power is
> NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in. Probably needs power!
> I'm requesting a replacement and if that does not work... to hell with it!
>
> Gr.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> http://www.avast.com
>
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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread P.J. Alling
As with all current consumer electronics, the customer is the quality 
assurance department. Just as manufacturing jobs are partially 
re-imported to North America every time you buy IKEA, (or similar), 
furniture.


Your story reminds me of the MB I replaced recently that had three 
memory slots, but wouldn't recognize any memory at all if more than one 
was in use.


On 7/27/2015 11:50 AM, Mark C wrote:

Here's why I don't like messing with my PC. Trying to add a USB 3.0 card:

Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by 
Windows. Returned.


Card #2 - Tenex with NEC chipset. Seems to work fine! Detected by 
Windows, driver is installed, Windows notifies me of the devices that 
could perform faster... but is physically incompatible with my case 
(see the picture)


http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/PDML/20150723_100156.jpg 



Card #3 -  TomTop card with same chipset as the card above but with 
the ports oriented in the other direction. Does not work when SATA 
power is connected - not detected by Windows. *Is* detected by Windows 
when power is NOT connected but devices do not work when plugged in. 
Probably needs power! I'm requesting a replacement and if that does 
not work... to hell with it!


Gr.

Mark



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Re: OT - USB 3.0 PITA

2015-07-27 Thread Matthew Hunt
On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 11:50 AM, Mark C  wrote:

> Card #1 - Inateck with Fresco Chipset. Does not work - not detected by
> Windows. Returned.

I know it's too late... but did you download drivers?

http://www.inateck.com/support/

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