[RBW] Re: Rim Width Question

[Philip Williamson]

I'd put 40mm tires on just about any rim. My mtb tires are 50mm, on
rims that are 19mm inside-to-inside. 40mm tires would let you run
pressures like 45/70 (front/rear), rather than the 60/90 you get from
35s.

Freshly repaired Tire Pressure Calculator:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiAk2_n1YDEidFp6OWpxRHpGdGVXbHQzYy1pX3BMVGc&hl=en_US#gid=0

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com


On Sep 6, 6:25 pm, charlie  wrote:
> I wondered about this also when I received my Open Pro rimmed wheels
> for my SimpleOne. I mounted what I had laying around, Panaracer
> Paselas (700x35) and pumped them up to 80 psi. I'm thinking of making
> a switch to a more flat proof (but not heavy) tire for commuting on
> glass strewn streets. 700x35's are the lower limit for me at 258
> pounds IMHO. I love the Marathon Supremes in the 700x40 size on my
> geared bicycle but they are too wide for the Open Pro rims I think.
>
> On Sep 5, 6:45 pm, Ray  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > What is the minimum rim width that will bear a 32 - 35 mm tire safely?

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[RBW] Re: suggestions for shimmy?

[NME]

Thank you all for your really insightful comments!  I tried a few more
things, including some your suggestions -- made sure the wheels were
aligned, checked tire pressure, etc.

I noticed that the problem was much worse when I was on smooth
asphalt, but would almost disappear when I was riding on gravel,
cobblestones, or bricked sidewalk, so it occurred to me that the
problem was this "harmonic" vibration -- not that the bike was out of
alignment, but that it was too perfectly aligned.  So on a whim, I
*loosened* the bolts to the rack -- not enough that the rack wobbles
or is in danger of coming unscrewed, but just enough that there can be
some miniscule "give" between the rack and the frame.  My idea was
that if I could disrupt the perfect transmission of this vibration,
then it wouldn't radiate to the front wheel, but would cancel itself
out.

It was the exact opposite of DougP's suggestion and the opposite of my
original inclination, but it worked!  It went from violent shimmy to
completely smooth.  No shaking at any speed.

Is this perhaps another version of the "self-restoring force" Ken was
talking about?  (The maths are also beyond me.)  In any case, if the
problem happens again in another context, I'll be sure to look into
"tire damping" (nice term) as a first resort!

--

Thanks again, everyone! I'll finally be posting pictures of my AHH
soon, now that I've got it properly scratched up and broken in.  Five
months in Berlin, and besides the daily commute, a few wonderful day
rides already, and and now some inn-to-inn rides planned for fall.

Nicole


P.S. in answer to Ken's question -- neither me nor my mechanic are
well-skilled.

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[RBW] Re: Bike registration (Was: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF)

[newenglandbike]

"The double-edged sword of bicycle registration is, of course, that 
someday folks may clamor for bicycle rider registration and licensure."

I agree with this.  

"Licensure of riders will probably lead to a requirement for bike rider 
insurance"

This made me shudder, then throw up a little.If this ever happens, I'm 
moving up to ruby ridge, where I will build a pump track and grow 
vegetables.*

-Matt


*in addition to stockpiling ammo.

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[RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

I think battery lighting is the right way to go if you're planning on switching 
bikes periodically. My Ixon IQ is wonderful in Chicago winters and between 
Paul's Gino mount and Peter White's mounting options you can put it lots of 
places to accommodate lots of configurations.

That said, everything I've read tells me if I ever "go dynamo" it'll be 
SON/Edelux, price be damned. I'll just save up. Those seem to be the ones that 
just work, even in harsh environs. And it'd have to "just work" to be better 
than my current battery setup.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] navigating this group on a mobile device

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Can anyone still, from the "mobile" interface:

1) "reply to author"
2) go directly to this group via a link
3) use the "show quoted text" links

I cannot. And it is a substantial degradation of the google groups platform.

Curiously yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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Re: [RBW] Re: suggestions for shimmy?

[Ken Freeman]

Congrats!

I don't think its related to the self-restoring force.  That is supposed to
be generated in the tire/road contact patch.

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 6:33 AM, NME  wrote:

> Thank you all for your really insightful comments!  I tried a few more
> things, including some your suggestions -- made sure the wheels were
> aligned, checked tire pressure, etc.
>
> I noticed that the problem was much worse when I was on smooth
> asphalt, but would almost disappear when I was riding on gravel,
> cobblestones, or bricked sidewalk, so it occurred to me that the
> problem was this "harmonic" vibration -- not that the bike was out of
> alignment, but that it was too perfectly aligned.  So on a whim, I
> *loosened* the bolts to the rack -- not enough that the rack wobbles
> or is in danger of coming unscrewed, but just enough that there can be
> some miniscule "give" between the rack and the frame.  My idea was
> that if I could disrupt the perfect transmission of this vibration,
> then it wouldn't radiate to the front wheel, but would cancel itself
> out.
>
> It was the exact opposite of DougP's suggestion and the opposite of my
> original inclination, but it worked!  It went from violent shimmy to
> completely smooth.  No shaking at any speed.
>
> Is this perhaps another version of the "self-restoring force" Ken was
> talking about?  (The maths are also beyond me.)  In any case, if the
> problem happens again in another context, I'll be sure to look into
> "tire damping" (nice term) as a first resort!
>
> --
>
> Thanks again, everyone! I'll finally be posting pictures of my AHH
> soon, now that I've got it properly scratched up and broken in.  Five
> months in Berlin, and besides the daily commute, a few wonderful day
> rides already, and and now some inn-to-inn rides planned for fall.
>
> Nicole
>
>
> P.S. in answer to Ken's question -- neither me nor my mechanic are
> well-skilled.
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>


-- 
Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] Re: Price drop on bags for sale

[Zack]

as an owner of the saddlesack large, i say good luck with that sale - it's a 
truly awesome bag, and a steal at that price.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Scott G.]

I used the Cyo in moderate rain with no problem, haven't tried it in the 
snow.
The skewer end mount setup makes the wheel, light and mount one piece,
easy to move from bike to bike, no wires to disconnect.

I used to used to setup a dedicated night bike for each winter, being able 
to
swap the light system easily let me ride the 'nice' bike occasionally during 
winter evenings.

note, the E3 Pro  is available with a spot beam or the Edelux style auto 
cutoff beam optic.

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Re: [RBW] suggestions for shimmy?

[Ken Freeman]

Sorry, "self aligning torque."

But is the rack secure?

On Wednesday, September 7, 2011, Ken Freeman 
wrote:
> Congrats!
> I don't think its related to the self-restoring force.  That is supposed
to be generated in the tire/road contact patch.
>
> On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 6:33 AM, NME  wrote:
>>
>> Thank you all for your really insightful comments!  I tried a few more
>> things, including some your suggestions -- made sure the wheels were
>> aligned, checked tire pressure, etc.
>>
>> I noticed that the problem was much worse when I was on smooth
>> asphalt, but would almost disappear when I was riding on gravel,
>> cobblestones, or bricked sidewalk, so it occurred to me that the
>> problem was this "harmonic" vibration -- not that the bike was out of
>> alignment, but that it was too perfectly aligned.  So on a whim, I
>> *loosened* the bolts to the rack -- not enough that the rack wobbles
>> or is in danger of coming unscrewed, but just enough that there can be
>> some miniscule "give" between the rack and the frame.  My idea was
>> that if I could disrupt the perfect transmission of this vibration,
>> then it wouldn't radiate to the front wheel, but would cancel itself
>> out.
>>
>> It was the exact opposite of DougP's suggestion and the opposite of my
>> original inclination, but it worked!  It went from violent shimmy to
>> completely smooth.  No shaking at any speed.
>>
>> Is this perhaps another version of the "self-restoring force" Ken was
>> talking about?  (The maths are also beyond me.)  In any case, if the
>> problem happens again in another context, I'll be sure to look into
>> "tire damping" (nice term) as a first resort!
>>
>> --
>>
>> Thanks again, everyone! I'll finally be posting pictures of my AHH
>> soon, now that I've got it properly scratched up and broken in.  Five
>> months in Berlin, and besides the daily commute, a few wonderful day
>> rides already, and and now some inn-to-inn rides planned for fall.
>>
>> Nicole
>>
>>
>> P.S. in answer to Ken's question -- neither me nor my mechanic are
>> well-skilled.
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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rbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com>.
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>>
>
>
>
> --
> Ken Freeman
> Ann Arbor, MI USA
>

-- 
Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] Re: Price drop on bags for sale

[Forrest]

The large Saddle Sack is now sold.  -- Forrest

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rim Width Question

[Ray Shine]

Interesting. Thanks, Philip.





From: Philip Williamson 
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Sent: Wed, September 7, 2011 12:43:36 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Rim Width Question

I'd put 40mm tires on just about any rim. My mtb tires are 50mm, on
rims that are 19mm inside-to-inside. 40mm tires would let you run
pressures like 45/70 (front/rear), rather than the 60/90 you get from
35s.

Freshly repaired Tire Pressure Calculator:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiAk2_n1YDEidFp6OWpxRHpGdGVXbHQzYy1pX3BMVGc&hl=en_US#gid=0


Philip

Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com


On Sep 6, 6:25 pm, charlie  wrote:
> I wondered about this also when I received my Open Pro rimmed wheels
> for my SimpleOne. I mounted what I had laying around, Panaracer
> Paselas (700x35) and pumped them up to 80 psi. I'm thinking of making
> a switch to a more flat proof (but not heavy) tire for commuting on
> glass strewn streets. 700x35's are the lower limit for me at 258
> pounds IMHO. I love the Marathon Supremes in the 700x40 size on my
> geared bicycle but they are too wide for the Open Pro rims I think.
>
> On Sep 5, 6:45 pm, Ray  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > What is the minimum rim width that will bear a 32 - 35 mm tire safely?

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[RBW] Re: Price drop on bags for sale

[Forrest]

The Sackville small trunk bag also is sold now.  Only the Arkel B-40 rear 
panniers remain. Thanks,  -- Forrest

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[RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Patrick in VT]

On Sep 5, 1:52 pm, Liesl  wrote:
> Curious about wiring set-ups that can move back and forth
> within 5 minutes or less.  Not thinking of dyno-run tailights.  Am
> thinking of LED's.

if you bounce back and forth between bikes a lot, I'd just get 2 IQ
flys and put one on each bike.  that light is plenty bright for urban
commuting and then you're only dealing with a 30 second wheel change.

FWIW, I've used the edeluxe, the cyo, the fly - basically the same,
and i've never had issues running them in crappy Vermont winters.  my
only comment is that the switch on the CYO isn't so hot - not the
easiest to operate with gloves and it gets a little gritty in really
sloppy weather.  the supernovas are also nice lights (have a couple of
friends using those) - but for the extra coin, 2 lights will make life
easier.

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[RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Kelly Sleeper]

I warn that I am biased ... the dyno's have spoiled me and between the SON28 
and the Edelux I have found bliss.  I've had  high powered battery lights 
and no matter how great and bright they may be I had to remember to charge 
them.  To get the battery to do something.. like get them out of the bag and 
mount them when it got dark.  (never bothered to permanently mount any of my 
battery powered lights)  Then came the Edelux on my AHH followed by the E3 
Triple on the Bombadil.  I sold the E3 triple on the Bombadil because I 
liked the light pattern of the Edulux better and missed the sensor.  A light 
that just was on was beyond just nice it was liberating.   

I know have three of them and contemplating putting one on my recently 
acquired Quickbeam.  The second ride out on the QB I was in a parking lot 
eating pizza and had to leave because it was getting dark.. I thought right 
or wrong on the way home.. this bike is useless without a good light.  

Spoiled yes.. I have a minewt or two in the garage and can't find the 
charging cable (though I know it's here)

I'm two lazy and unorganized for battery ... I don't want to go turn on the 
light or remember to turn it off again.  

OOPs.. i ranted yet again.. sorry.. :) (ok sorry may be a stretch)

Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Bike registration (Was: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF)

[Minh]

I find this whole thread really disturbing, from a pure thief trying
to make money perspective i can't see how stealing these kinds of
bikes are worthwhile.Something like a Rivendell or BoxDog i only
see two options for fencing it, either really cheap or at a 'normal
price', fencing it cheap, well you might as well steal a more generic
bike so less chances of getting caught.  trying to fence it for a
normal price would involve someone that knows the rarity of the bike
and would be suspicious.

Maybe i'm trying to apply too much logic to thieves, guess i would not
make a particularly good bike thief

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike registration (Was: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF)

[Seth Vidal]

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Minh  wrote:
> I find this whole thread really disturbing, from a pure thief trying
> to make money perspective i can't see how stealing these kinds of
> bikes are worthwhile.    Something like a Rivendell or BoxDog i only
> see two options for fencing it, either really cheap or at a 'normal
> price', fencing it cheap, well you might as well steal a more generic
> bike so less chances of getting caught.  trying to fence it for a
> normal price would involve someone that knows the rarity of the bike
> and would be suspicious.
>

Agreed. You would either want the bikes for yourself or you have a
fence in mind for a better price.

The going rate for a stolen bike seems to be between $40 and $100 -
seems to correlate strongly with the price
of various drugs.

If I have to work hard to steal a bike which is going to fetch me the
same value as one I have to work less hard for then I'm going to go
after the lower hanging fruit.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Jude]

> Regarding Cyo, how does it hold up under bucketing rain?  Does it take
> on water?  I've read some concerns about it not being as tight as the
> Edelux...

I mounted the first Cyo on the forward tab of a Nitto M12 rack.  This
placed the light directly in the spray of the tire.  I kept thinking
"I need to move that light or extend the fender".  After about a year
it finally failed in a downpour.  I tried letting it dry for a week
but that didn't help.  Luckily it was still under warranty, Peter
White replaced it.  I was honest about the conditions and the
placement.

After that I followed Bicycle Quarterly's advice.  The new light is
mounted under the rack to the side.   Rene Herse sells a bracket at a
fair price though one could easily make their own.  Great placement
and keeps the light out of the spray.
http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-341/Light-Bracket-for-Edelux/Detail

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[RBW] Re: suggestions for shimmy?

[Earl Grey]

Congrats. Nice outside-of-the-box thinking. Reminds me of the violent
front brake shudder I cured by toeing the brakes OUT as far as I
could.

Gernot


On Sep 7, 5:33 pm, NME  wrote:
> Thank you all for your really insightful comments!  I tried a few more
> things, including some your suggestions -- made sure the wheels were
> aligned, checked tire pressure, etc.
>
> I noticed that the problem was much worse when I was on smooth
> asphalt, but would almost disappear when I was riding on gravel,
> cobblestones, or bricked sidewalk, so it occurred to me that the
> problem was this "harmonic" vibration -- not that the bike was out of
> alignment, but that it was too perfectly aligned.  So on a whim, I
> *loosened* the bolts to the rack -- not enough that the rack wobbles
> or is in danger of coming unscrewed, but just enough that there can be
> some miniscule "give" between the rack and the frame.  My idea was
> that if I could disrupt the perfect transmission of this vibration,
> then it wouldn't radiate to the front wheel, but would cancel itself
> out.
>
> It was the exact opposite of DougP's suggestion and the opposite of my
> original inclination, but it worked!  It went from violent shimmy to
> completely smooth.  No shaking at any speed.
>
> Is this perhaps another version of the "self-restoring force" Ken was
> talking about?  (The maths are also beyond me.)  In any case, if the
> problem happens again in another context, I'll be sure to look into
> "tire damping" (nice term) as a first resort!
>
> --
>
> Thanks again, everyone! I'll finally be posting pictures of my AHH
> soon, now that I've got it properly scratched up and broken in.  Five
> months in Berlin, and besides the daily commute, a few wonderful day
> rides already, and and now some inn-to-inn rides planned for fall.
>
> Nicole
>
> P.S. in answer to Ken's question -- neither me nor my mechanic are
> well-skilled.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Khalid Mateen]

Do you think it is safe to mount a Edelux on a front fender for a touring
bicycle?  Assuming that is a metal fender and not plastic.  Sorry to high
jack this post but it is question that I have been asking myself.




On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 10:29 AM, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:

> I warn that I am biased ... the dyno's have spoiled me and between the
> SON28 and the Edelux I have found bliss.  I've had  high powered battery
> lights and no matter how great and bright they may be I had to remember to
> charge them.  To get the battery to do something.. like get them out of the
> bag and mount them when it got dark.  (never bothered to permanently mount
> any of my battery powered lights)  Then came the Edelux on my AHH followed
> by the E3 Triple on the Bombadil.  I sold the E3 triple on the Bombadil
> because I liked the light pattern of the Edulux better and missed the
> sensor.  A light that just was on was beyond just nice it was liberating.
>
>
> I know have three of them and contemplating putting one on my recently
> acquired Quickbeam.  The second ride out on the QB I was in a parking lot
> eating pizza and had to leave because it was getting dark.. I thought right
> or wrong on the way home.. this bike is useless without a good light.
>
> Spoiled yes.. I have a minewt or two in the garage and can't find the
> charging cable (though I know it's here)
>
> I'm two lazy and unorganized for battery ... I don't want to go turn on the
> light or remember to turn it off again.
>
> OOPs.. i ranted yet again.. sorry.. :) (ok sorry may be a stretch)
>
> Kelly
>
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Re: [RBW] Fall is here and I'm All Rivved Up!

[dweendaddy]

Riv poncho today in Nashville! I stopped by my LBS and they were floored by 
its functionality (not by the style statement, as far as I could tell).

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[RBW] Re: Sackville Grid Grey Fabric Discontinued

[Chris]

Called Rivendell again about the Grey Grid fabric and talked to Grant
this time.  So it is confirmed: the fabric is UNOFFICIALLY
discontinued for all Sackville products due to low yielding issues.
For some reasons, a lot of fabric goes to waste when producing bags
out of the Grey Grid cloth.  However, Grant didn't rule out bringing
back the fabric in the future.

Perhaps they can bring the fabric back at as some sort of limited
edition with a price premium?

On Sep 4, 11:32 pm, Chris  wrote:
> I spoke to Miesha when I called to order the Tool Wrap.  Maybe she was
> only referring to Grey Grid being discontinued for the Tool Wrap due
> to supply issues.  But it doesn't really make sense if supply issues
> are only affecting the Tool Wrap and not other products.  I'll make
> another call on Tuesday and find out.  Personally, I really prefer the
> Grey Grid much more than the other two colors.
>
> On Sep 4, 1:17 pm, grrlyrida  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Phew! The grey grid is the only color that matches the bike I just
> > ordered from Riv. I wanted thegrey grid in a shop sack plus med saddle
> > sack.
>
> > Ness
>
> > On Sep 4, 9:55 am, René Sterental  wrote:
>
> > > I also emailed Keven who responded that no one there had heard any issues
> > > with the grey grid fabric. He didn't speak with Grant.
>
> > > I'm waiting to get a pair of XS Grey SaddleSacks and Grant told me they 
> > > were
> > > expecting them in a few weeks when I won the lug competition.
>
> > > Let's hope this has been a misunderstanding and we'll have plenty of grey
> > > grid fabric items available again soon.
>
> > > René
>
> > > Sent from my iPhone 4
>
> > > On Sep 4, 2011, at 9:11 AM, Kelly M  wrote:
>
> > > I just called yesterday to buy a M saddlesack and was told that the grid
> > > grey was just backordered and should be in within a week or two.
>
> > > --
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[RBW] A good Synergy-equivalent from a good wheel builder in Europe?

[Pierrre]

Dear all,

I am looking for a dynohub replacement wheel for the winter. I am
pretty happy with the versatility of my Synergy, running tires >=
35mm, mostly on roads (sometimes in pretty bad shape) and occasional
dirt/forest road in the mountains.

Is anybody aware of (or better, have experience with) (i) a somewhat
similar rim that would be more readily available in Europe than the
Synergy and (ii) a good wheel builder in the same area.

A719 are out, not zippy enough, felt more like Dyads. Currently
leaning towards a SONdelux 36h + DT Swiss TK540, by SJS cycles.

Thanks,

Pierre

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Re: [RBW] A good Synergy-equivalent from a good wheel builder in Europe?

[Seth Vidal]

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 5:21 PM, Pierrre <9xxvwkjf1854...@jetable.org> wrote:
> Dear all,
>
> I am looking for a dynohub replacement wheel for the winter. I am
> pretty happy with the versatility of my Synergy, running tires >=
> 35mm, mostly on roads (sometimes in pretty bad shape) and occasional
> dirt/forest road in the mountains.
>
> Is anybody aware of (or better, have experience with) (i) a somewhat
> similar rim that would be more readily available in Europe than the
> Synergy and (ii) a good wheel builder in the same area.
>
> A719 are out, not zippy enough, felt more like Dyads. Currently
> leaning towards a SONdelux 36h + DT Swiss TK540, by SJS cycles.
>

Is the salsa delgado cross available in europe? I have one of those on
the back of one bike that has a synergy on the front and I can't tell
any difference at all.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 10:38 -0400, Khalid Mateen wrote:
> Do you think it is safe to mount a Edelux on a front fender for a
> touring bicycle?  Assuming that is a metal fender and not plastic.
> Sorry to high jack this post but it is question that I have been
> asking myself.


Mitch Pryor likes that position.  You can see several set up that way on
his flickr site  http://www.flickr.com/photos/mapcycles/
and in the MAP Randonneur Project Owners Group, such as this one
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mapcycles/5583366143/in/pool-1759586@N22

He has a mount made for that lamp and that location that he says will be
commercially available soon, shown here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mapcycles/6055950533/in/photostream

However the BQ test of the MAP had a photo where a light in that
location had been misaligned by the handlebar bag hitting it after a
stretch on a rough gravel road.   That can't happen with a rack mount.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[PATRICK MOORE]

I've thought of that and would say "no" unless your fender has a
second pair of struts supporting the forward end or unless it is
secured to the underside of a rack; and even in those cases, only with
metal fenders. I've seen very light, old lamps that an unsupported
metal fender might support long term without damage, but the Edeluxe
is quite a bit heavier than these, as are also the Cyos and the Fly.

Note that I have in mind Berthoud ss fenders as well as Honjo and VO
aluminum ones.

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 8:38 AM, Khalid Mateen  wrote:
> Do you think it is safe to mount a Edelux on a front fender for a touring
> bicycle?  Assuming that is a metal fender and not plastic.  Sorry to high
> jack this post but it is question that I have been asking myself.
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 10:29 AM, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>>
>> I warn that I am biased ... the dyno's have spoiled me and between the
>> SON28 and the Edelux I have found bliss.  I've had  high powered battery
>> lights and no matter how great and bright they may be I had to remember to
>> charge them.  To get the battery to do something.. like get them out of the
>> bag and mount them when it got dark.  (never bothered to permanently mount
>> any of my battery powered lights)  Then came the Edelux on my AHH followed
>> by the E3 Triple on the Bombadil.  I sold the E3 triple on the Bombadil
>> because I liked the light pattern of the Edulux better and missed the
>> sensor.  A light that just was on was beyond just nice it was liberating.
>> I know have three of them and contemplating putting one on my recently
>> acquired Quickbeam.  The second ride out on the QB I was in a parking lot
>> eating pizza and had to leave because it was getting dark.. I thought right
>> or wrong on the way home.. this bike is useless without a good light.
>> Spoiled yes.. I have a minewt or two in the garage and can't find the
>> charging cable (though I know it's here)
>> I'm two lazy and unorganized for battery ... I don't want to go turn on
>> the light or remember to turn it off again.
>> OOPs.. i ranted yet again.. sorry.. :) (ok sorry may be a stretch)
>> Kelly
>>
>> --
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
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-- 
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Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html

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[RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[EricP]

I have my E3 mounted forward like that on my Hillborne.  It can get a
bit dirty.  Might switch things around in the future.  Although the
Sam isn't often out in winter.  However, mounting on the front of the
Nitto rack might be better for me.

For the Cyo, haven't found problems with the switch.  Although my
tendency is to keep it on at all times.  Especially now that I have a
tail light hooked up.  The light is on the fork crown above a fender,
so is away from some of the elements.

If one were to go with two lights, the Fly might be a good choice.
Or, if looking to save money, the Lyt might be an option.  Installed
one on my wife's bike.  It has a good beam pattern and she likes it
better than the Lumotech Oval which it replaced.

Khalid - I personally don't think mounting a light on the front fender
would work.  Too much vibration.  A second strut in front of the light
might help.  Then I could see it being possible.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Sep 7, 10:30 am, Jude  wrote:
> > Regarding Cyo, how does it hold up under bucketing rain?  Does it take
> > on water?  I've read some concerns about it not being as tight as the
> > Edelux...
>
> I mounted the first Cyo on the forward tab of a Nitto M12 rack.  This
> placed the light directly in the spray of the tire.  I kept thinking
> "I need to move that light or extend the fender".  After about a year
> it finally failed in a downpour.  I tried letting it dry for a week
> but that didn't help.  Luckily it was still under warranty, Peter
> White replaced it.  I was honest about the conditions and the
> placement.
>
> After that I followed Bicycle Quarterly's advice.  The new light is
> mounted under the rack to the side.   Rene Herse sells a bracket at a
> fair price though one could easily make their own.  Great placement
> and keeps the light out of the 
> spray.http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-341/Light-Bracket-for-Edelu...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[PATRICK MOORE]

Aren't they liberating? I too was a holdout for years until I tried
the latest generation of German LED lights. Now I've got dynamos on
all my bikes except my gofast -- 1 SON 20R + Edeluxe, Riv,  1 DH3N72
(actually two of these for the two wheelsets, fat and very fat) + Cyo
for the Fargo, 1 BB dynamo + Cyo for the Herse and one or two other
bottle setups with various lamps for beater grocery getter-types. For
the grocery trike It's is great to be able just to get on and pedal
for a last minute trip to the store: I ought to rig up a dyno tail
light on that one. I don't mind switching on batter rear lights for
the other bikes since the batteries last for at least a couple of
months.

I do have battery backups, a Knog or Frog on the trike, shortly a head
mounted Flea or somesuch for the others, that I carry in a pouch with
ankle and Sam Browne reflectors as part of my nighttime kit, but for
the short run, last minute errand vehicle I want full automation, so
to speak.


 On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 10:29 AM, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
> I warn that I am biased ... the dyno's have spoiled me and between the
> SON28 and the Edelux I have found bliss.  I've had  high powered battery
> lights and no matter how great and bright they may be I had to remember to
> charge them.  To get the battery to do something.. like get them out of the
> bag and mount them when it got dark.  (never bothered to permanently mount
> any of my battery powered lights)  Then came the Edelux on my AHH followed
> by the E3 Triple on the Bombadil.  I sold the E3 triple on the Bombadil
> because I liked the light pattern of the Edulux better and missed the
> sensor.  A light that just was on was beyond just nice it was liberating.
> I know have three of them and contemplating putting one on my recently
> acquired Quickbeam.  The second ride out on the QB I was in a parking lot
> eating pizza and had to leave because it was getting dark.. I thought right
> or wrong on the way home.. this bike is useless without a good light.
> Spoiled yes.. I have a minewt or two in the garage and can't find the
> charging cable (though I know it's here)
> I'm two lazy and unorganized for battery ... I don't want to go turn on
> the light or remember to turn it off again.
> OOPs.. i ranted yet again.. sorry.. :) (ok sorry may be a stretch)
> Kelly


-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[PATRICK MOORE]

Eric: will you share with us your rear light wiring strategy? Thanks.

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 10:23 AM, EricP  wrote:
> I have my E3 mounted forward like that on my Hillborne.  It can get a
> bit dirty.  Might switch things around in the future.  Although the
> Sam isn't often out in winter.  However, mounting on the front of the
> Nitto rack might be better for me.
>
> For the Cyo, haven't found problems with the switch.  Although my
> tendency is to keep it on at all times.  Especially now that I have a
> tail light hooked up.  The light is on the fork crown above a fender,
> so is away from some of the elements.
>
> If one were to go with two lights, the Fly might be a good choice.
> Or, if looking to save money, the Lyt might be an option.  Installed
> one on my wife's bike.  It has a good beam pattern and she likes it
> better than the Lumotech Oval which it replaced.
>
> Khalid - I personally don't think mounting a light on the front fender
> would work.  Too much vibration.  A second strut in front of the light
> might help.  Then I could see it being possible.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Sep 7, 10:30 am, Jude  wrote:
>> > Regarding Cyo, how does it hold up under bucketing rain?  Does it take
>> > on water?  I've read some concerns about it not being as tight as the
>> > Edelux...
>>
>> I mounted the first Cyo on the forward tab of a Nitto M12 rack.  This
>> placed the light directly in the spray of the tire.  I kept thinking
>> "I need to move that light or extend the fender".  After about a year
>> it finally failed in a downpour.  I tried letting it dry for a week
>> but that didn't help.  Luckily it was still under warranty, Peter
>> White replaced it.  I was honest about the conditions and the
>> placement.
>>
>> After that I followed Bicycle Quarterly's advice.  The new light is
>> mounted under the rack to the side.   Rene Herse sells a bracket at a
>> fair price though one could easily make their own.  Great placement
>> and keeps the light out of the 
>> spray.http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-341/Light-Bracket-for-Edelu...
>
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[RBW] Re: suggestions for shimmy?

[dougP]

Nicole:

Congrats on solving the problem.  This is a great example of the
elusiveness of sources of shimmy and their cures.

dougP

On Sep 7, 3:33 am, NME  wrote:
> Thank you all for your really insightful comments!  I tried a few more
> things, including some your suggestions -- made sure the wheels were
> aligned, checked tire pressure, etc.
>
> I noticed that the problem was much worse when I was on smooth
> asphalt, but would almost disappear when I was riding on gravel,
> cobblestones, or bricked sidewalk, so it occurred to me that the
> problem was this "harmonic" vibration -- not that the bike was out of
> alignment, but that it was too perfectly aligned.  So on a whim, I
> *loosened* the bolts to the rack -- not enough that the rack wobbles
> or is in danger of coming unscrewed, but just enough that there can be
> some miniscule "give" between the rack and the frame.  My idea was
> that if I could disrupt the perfect transmission of this vibration,
> then it wouldn't radiate to the front wheel, but would cancel itself
> out.
>
> It was the exact opposite of DougP's suggestion and the opposite of my
> original inclination, but it worked!  It went from violent shimmy to
> completely smooth.  No shaking at any speed.
>
> Is this perhaps another version of the "self-restoring force" Ken was
> talking about?  (The maths are also beyond me.)  In any case, if the
> problem happens again in another context, I'll be sure to look into
> "tire damping" (nice term) as a first resort!
>
> --
>
> Thanks again, everyone! I'll finally be posting pictures of my AHH
> soon, now that I've got it properly scratched up and broken in.  Five
> months in Berlin, and besides the daily commute, a few wonderful day
> rides already, and and now some inn-to-inn rides planned for fall.
>
> Nicole
>
> P.S. in answer to Ken's question -- neither me nor my mechanic are
> well-skilled.

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[RBW] FS: Pacenti Pari-Moto 650B X 38 Pair

[Johnny Alien]

I got these from someone on this forum in "as new" condition. I mounted them 
up and rode them down my block but that was the extent of it.  They don't 
even have a mile of usage on them.  Black with tan sides.  $100 shipped for 
the pair.

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Re: [RBW] Bike registration (Was: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF)

[PATRICK MOORE]

Slightly tangential: can anyone else confirm or refute the value of
hardware-store towing chain plus top end, security-designed padlock as
a reasonably cheap and secure alternative to U locks and cables? I've
got two locks made from this chain which had to be cut on a grinding
wheel or (15+ minutes) with a hacksaw as the hw store said that bolt
cutters don't work. It's heavy and you have to get the length right --
short enough to avoid needless slack, long enough to get around tire
and down tube as well as post -- but, with top end lock, costs under
$30. I slip a length of mountain bike tube over the chain to protect
things. The chain (and a good padlock) is very heavy, so I leave them
at common destinations: I have one at church and one at a local
grocery store which is too crowded for me to wheel my bike through.

It's nice to have locks where you need them without having to remember
to transfer the Kryptonite to the right bag.

Oh, and where can I pick up an easy to use wheel lock, the kind that
bolts to, say, the fork and simply slides a rod through the wheel, for
my trike?

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[RBW] Re: Bike registration (Was: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF)

[islaysteve]

Agreed, these are good points. I can think of two arguements:  1. Parts can 
be stripped and sold on eBay (I know, that takes work and time).  Maybe  
they could even sell the frame on eBay (see #2).  2. Thieves know a 
nice/expensive bike when they see one.  if they have tools to get it 
relatively quickly, why not go for it?  They may not realize that Rivs are 
fairly low-production-number, have an extensive owner community, that GP 
will help track SNs, etc.  It's a nice expensive bike, let''s steal it!
My two cents.  Steve

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[RBW] Re: A good Synergy-equivalent from a good wheel builder in Europe?

[islaysteve]

Velo Orange (Annapolis,  MD) sells their Diagonale rims separately or built 
up.  I realize they are not in  Europe but they are reasonable.  I'm riding 
a pair, but not too many miles yet!  Steve 

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[RBW] If at first you don't sell...

[John Bennett]

Dear Forum Friends,

I posted my Rivendell custom for sale a couple of months ago, and it
didn't get sold. I'm still not riding it, and the dough would now be
handy to cover some additional repairs on the old home front, so I
thought I'd try again.

$2650 is the *most* attractive I can make it without having too much
regret about selling it.

This is essentially the same post:

I haven't ridden it much in the 10 years I've had it. I'm not a racer,
and prefer to get around on my Saluki commuter. I am the original
owner.

The bike is fast, light, and handles great.

The frame was built by the legendary Joe Starck, and painted by the
equally legendary Joe Bell in 2001.

The frame size is 63.5cm, center-to-top, with a stand-over of 87cm.

The top tube is 58cm, measured center-to-center. The chain stays are
44.5cm.

There are some pictures, and additional specs, here on Flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/63176651@N08/

The bike is clean, well-cared for, and barely ridden. It has spent the
last several years living in my office at Rivendell. I've never used
an odometer, so I can't tell you just how many miles it *doesn't* have
on it, but it isn't many.

Email me with any questions, or if you need more photos.

Cheers, and thanks for looking,

John

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Re: [RBW] If at first you don't sell...

[PATRICK MOORE]

My two cents: $2700 for a Joe Starck is a wonderful buy and with that
build it's a steal. For someone tall who needs a short tt, this would
(IMO) be a far better deal than a Roadeo. I've got a Joe/Joe and it is
indeed a wonderful bike.

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 11:31 AM, John Bennett  wrote:
> Dear Forum Friends,
>
> I posted my Rivendell custom for sale a couple of months ago, and it
> didn't get sold. I'm still not riding it, and the dough would now be
> handy to cover some additional repairs on the old home front, so I
> thought I'd try again.
>
> $2650 is the *most* attractive I can make it without having too much
> regret about selling it.
>
> This is essentially the same post:
>
> I haven't ridden it much in the 10 years I've had it. I'm not a racer,
> and prefer to get around on my Saluki commuter. I am the original
> owner.
>
> The bike is fast, light, and handles great.
>
> The frame was built by the legendary Joe Starck, and painted by the
> equally legendary Joe Bell in 2001.
>
> The frame size is 63.5cm, center-to-top, with a stand-over of 87cm.
>
> The top tube is 58cm, measured center-to-center. The chain stays are
> 44.5cm.
>
> There are some pictures, and additional specs, here on Flickr:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/63176651@N08/
>
> The bike is clean, well-cared for, and barely ridden. It has spent the
> last several years living in my office at Rivendell. I've never used
> an odometer, so I can't tell you just how many miles it *doesn't* have
> on it, but it isn't many.
>
> Email me with any questions, or if you need more photos.
>
> Cheers, and thanks for looking,
>
> John
>
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>



-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html

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Re: [RBW] If at first you don't sell...

[Seth Vidal]

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 1:31 PM, John Bennett  wrote:
> Dear Forum Friends,
>
> I posted my Rivendell custom for sale a couple of months ago, and it
> didn't get sold. I'm still not riding it, and the dough would now be
> handy to cover some additional repairs on the old home front, so I
> thought I'd try again.
>
> $2650 is the *most* attractive I can make it without having too much
> regret about selling it.
>

John,
 Is this complete or for the frame/fork?

-sv

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[RBW] Re: If at first you don't sell...

[John Bennett]

Complete bike. Shipping $150 east O' Mississippi. $140 West O' Same.

Cheers,

JAB

On Sep 7, 10:42 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 1:31 PM, John Bennett  wrote:
> > Dear Forum Friends,
>
> > I posted my Rivendell custom for sale a couple of months ago, and it
> > didn't get sold. I'm still not riding it, and the dough would now be
> > handy to cover some additional repairs on the old home front, so I
> > thought I'd try again.
>
> > $2650 is the *most* attractive I can make it without having too much
> > regret about selling it.
>
> John,
>  Is this complete or for the frame/fork?
>
> -sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Glenn Ammons]

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 12:15 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 10:38 -0400, Khalid Mateen wrote:
>> Do you think it is safe to mount a Edelux on a front fender for a
>> touring bicycle?  Assuming that is a metal fender and not plastic.
>> Sorry to high jack this post but it is question that I have been
>> asking myself.
>
> Mitch Pryor likes that position.  You can see several set up that way on
> his flickr site  http://www.flickr.com/photos/mapcycles/
> and in the MAP Randonneur Project Owners Group, such as this one
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/mapcycles/5583366143/in/pool-1759586@N22
>
> He has a mount made for that lamp and that location that he says will be
> commercially available soon, shown here
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/mapcycles/6055950533/in/photostream

Ooh.  That's nice!  I make my own fender mounts by bending a strip of
stainless steel into a U, but Mitch's mount is way nicer (and, if my
time counts for anything, cheaper).

Here's a picture of my setup (the light is now an eDelux):

https://picasaweb.google.com/107305917565128209357/VeloOrangeCyclotouriste#5180637123092075842

I do use an extra fender stay for support.  On the bike I'm assembling
now, I used a Honjo R-clip to attach the light mount to both the
fender and the extra stay, which should be even more durable.  The one
above has lasted four years, though, so it's not bad.

--glenn
West Chester, PA, USA

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[RBW] Wide profile cantis solved the problem

[dougP]

The recent thread about cantis in general & my wife's Atlantis' lack
of braking power during a recen tour got me motivated to once again
delve into the arcane world of brakes.  A few years back I had changed
the original narrow profile Shimano cantis that came stock on my
Atlantis in '03 to the Tektro CR-720.  This was driven by a lack of
braking power that was especiallly problematic with a full load.  We
bought my wife's Atlantis 3rd hand less than a year ago but the bike
is essentially brand new, down to the original bar tape.  Standard Riv
build, including the narrow profile Shimano cantis.  To someone's
credit, it was equipped with Kool Stop Salmon pads, but even with that
braking was marginal, even with careful adjustments to the set-up.

Last week I took the stock Shimano SLR brakes off my 20+ year old MTB,
changed the rock hard stock pads for the Salmon Kool Stops and
installed the old wide profile cantis on her Atlantis.  We headed for
the hills & voila!  She's now quite confident in the braking power and
much more comfortable.  Same levers, same pads, just different
geometry brakes.

To Rivendell's credit, I see the Tektros are the brake listed on a
typical build for the Atlantis.

dougP

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[RBW] Re: FS: Pacenti Pari-Moto 650B X 38 Pair

[Johnny Alien]

Gone

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Re: [RBW] Sam Hillborne Build + Reaction

[Rex Kerr]

What did you use to space the rear fender from the kickstand plate?  Looks
like valve stem nuts. :-)

Also... what's the deal with the counterweight?  I can't imagine that it's
there for the same purpose as weight on car tires, as the valve stem hole's
weight loss would be more than countered by variations in the tire

As for the other comments on the VO seatpost... I have their two bolt model,
and it looks nice, but it's a bit hard to get it right.  If the top plate
doesn't directly align with the bottom it'll loosen and the saddle will
creak.  I'm actually not sure how might to tighten it down, it doesn't seem
to have a natural affinity for a certain amount of torque like a single bolt
seatpost.

-Rex

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[RBW] WTB: extra 650B rear wheel?

[james]

Hey all!

My close friend Kristin is a nurse and a 650b rider (I helped convert
her bike).  My friend Stephen and I bought her wheels off of another
on this listserve.  Now her rear wheel got stolen!  Oh no.  While
helping deliver babies nonetheless.  Does anyone have an extra 650b
wheel sitting around that they could sell?  email me off list with
your asking price, and I'll check in with her for what funds she has.

thanks,
James in St. Louis

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[RBW] Re: Wide profile cantis solved the problem

[Michael Hechmer]

YUP, my experience too.

michael

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Re: [RBW] Wide profile cantis solved the problem

[James Warren]

That's cool Doug. I love Atlantis data.

My own story this summer was a bit different. I did a tour and found good 
satisfaction with the Deore V Brakes when slowing down my loaded Atlantis on 
some steep hills.

-Jim W.


-Original Message-
>From: dougP 
>Sent: Sep 7, 2011 11:33 AM
>To: RBW Owners Bunch 
>Subject: [RBW] Wide profile cantis solved the problem
>
>The recent thread about cantis in general & my wife's Atlantis' lack
>of braking power during a recen tour got me motivated to once again
>delve into the arcane world of brakes.  A few years back I had changed
>the original narrow profile Shimano cantis that came stock on my
>Atlantis in '03 to the Tektro CR-720.  This was driven by a lack of
>braking power that was especiallly problematic with a full load.  We
>bought my wife's Atlantis 3rd hand less than a year ago but the bike
>is essentially brand new, down to the original bar tape.  Standard Riv
>build, including the narrow profile Shimano cantis.  To someone's
>credit, it was equipped with Kool Stop Salmon pads, but even with that
>braking was marginal, even with careful adjustments to the set-up.
>
>Last week I took the stock Shimano SLR brakes off my 20+ year old MTB,
>changed the rock hard stock pads for the Salmon Kool Stops and
>installed the old wide profile cantis on her Atlantis.  We headed for
>the hills & voila!  She's now quite confident in the braking power and
>much more comfortable.  Same levers, same pads, just different
>geometry brakes.
>
>To Rivendell's credit, I see the Tektros are the brake listed on a
>typical build for the Atlantis.
>
>dougP
>
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[RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy

[James Warren]

I want to read the Roadeo review. This sounds silly, but I tried Barnes and 
Noble and some other newsstands, and I just can't find a copy of Bicycling 
magazine. My LBS doesn't stock it. A big store (Helen's) might have it, but 
they are far away.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jim W.

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Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 14:02 -0700, James Warren wrote:
> I want to read the Roadeo review. This sounds silly, but I tried Barnes and 
> Noble and some other newsstands, and I just can't find a copy of Bicycling 
> magazine. My LBS doesn't stock it. A big store (Helen's) might have it, but 
> they are far away.
> 
> Any suggestions?

Many public libraries subscribe to it.



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[RBW] Re: Bike registration (Was: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF)

[Minh]

Wow, i think it's kind of nuts that a Rivendell 'looks' expensive.  I
mean they might look expensive to me, but are leather saddles, cork
grips, lugged steel, fat tires, fenders, high-spoke count wheels, what
equates to expensive now? what has the world come to?

wouldn't a low slung plastic/carbon bike with minimal spoke wheels be
a better target

On Sep 7, 1:12 pm, islaysteve  wrote:
> Agreed, these are good points. I can think of two arguements:  1. Parts can
> be stripped and sold on eBay (I know, that takes work and time).  Maybe  
> they could even sell the frame on eBay (see #2).  2. Thieves know a
> nice/expensive bike when they see one.  if they have tools to get it
> relatively quickly, why not go for it?  They may not realize that Rivs are
> fairly low-production-number, have an extensive owner community, that GP
> will help track SNs, etc.  It's a nice expensive bike, let''s steal it!    
> My two cents.  Steve

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Build + Reaction

[stevep33]

Nice job with the lights. I really like how the E3 taillight fits behind the 
seat cluster.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronschmidt/6106429018/in/photostream

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Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy

[James Warren]

Brilliant! Thanks Steve!
Reading at the library is the perfect thing to do on a ride AND now I don't 
have to store the used magazine later.


-Original Message-
>From: Steve Palincsar 
>Sent: Sep 7, 2011 2:10 PM
>To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy
>
>On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 14:02 -0700, James Warren wrote:
>> I want to read the Roadeo review. This sounds silly, but I tried Barnes and 
>> Noble and some other newsstands, and I just can't find a copy of Bicycling 
>> magazine. My LBS doesn't stock it. A big store (Helen's) might have it, but 
>> they are far away.
>> 
>> Any suggestions?
>
>Many public libraries subscribe to it.
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy

[Tim Whalen]

Jim,

I found it by going to www.bicycling.com and then putting roadeo into the
site search feature.  There's two reviews there, one of the bike that was
cited here and an earlier one of the frame alone.
Tim

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 14:02 -0700, James Warren wrote:
> > I want to read the Roadeo review. This sounds silly, but I tried Barnes
> and Noble and some other newsstands, and I just can't find a copy of
> Bicycling magazine. My LBS doesn't stock it. A big store (Helen's) might
> have it, but they are far away.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
>
> Many public libraries subscribe to it.
>
>
>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike registration (Was: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF)

[islaysteve]

Well, just opinion and conjecture of course.  Looking at the photos Flickr 
and the like, lots of pretty bikes that are RBW.  Sure, carbon/new black 
parts:  steal that too!  

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Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy

[James Warren]

Thank you Tim! That works.
-Original Message- From: Tim Whalen Sent: Sep 7, 2011 2:34 PM To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy Jim,I found it by going to www.bicycling.com and then putting roadeo into the site search feature.  There's two reviews there, one of the bike that was cited here and an earlier one of the frame alone.Tim
On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 14:02 -0700, James Warren wrote:> I want to read the Roadeo review. This sounds silly, but I tried Barnes and Noble and some other newsstands, and I just can't find a copy of Bicycling magazine. My LBS doesn't stock it. A big store (Helen's) might have it, but they are far away.>> Any suggestions?Many public libraries subscribe to it.


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Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy

[Tim Whalen]

Excellent!

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 4:10 PM, James Warren wrote:

> Thank you Tim! That works.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Tim Whalen **
> Sent: Sep 7, 2011 2:34 PM
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy
>
> Jim,
>
> I found it by going to www.bicycling.com and then putting roadeo into the
> site search feature.  There's two reviews there, one of the bike that was
> cited here and an earlier one of the frame alone.
> Tim
>
> On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 14:02 -0700, James Warren wrote:
>> > I want to read the Roadeo review. This sounds silly, but I tried Barnes
>> and Noble and some other newsstands, and I just can't find a copy of
>> Bicycling magazine. My LBS doesn't stock it. A big store (Helen's) might
>> have it, but they are far away.
>> >
>> > Any suggestions?
>>
>> Many public libraries subscribe to it.
>>
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: If at first you don't sell...

[John Bennett]

The bike is sold. Thank you everyone. John

On Sep 7, 10:31 am, John Bennett  wrote:
> Dear Forum Friends,
>
> I posted my Rivendell custom for sale a couple of months ago, and it
> didn't get sold. I'm still not riding it, and the dough would now be
> handy to cover some additional repairs on the old home front, so I
> thought I'd try again.
>
> $2650 is the *most* attractive I can make it without having too much
> regret about selling it.
>
> This is essentially the same post:
>
> I haven't ridden it much in the 10 years I've had it. I'm not a racer,
> and prefer to get around on my Saluki commuter. I am the original
> owner.
>
> The bike is fast, light, and handles great.
>
> The frame was built by the legendary Joe Starck, and painted by the
> equally legendary Joe Bell in 2001.
>
> The frame size is 63.5cm, center-to-top, with a stand-over of 87cm.
>
> The top tube is 58cm, measured center-to-center. The chain stays are
> 44.5cm.
>
> There are some pictures, and additional specs, here on Flickr:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/63176651@N08/
>
> The bike is clean, well-cared for, and barely ridden. It has spent the
> last several years living in my office at Rivendell. I've never used
> an odometer, so I can't tell you just how many miles it *doesn't* have
> on it, but it isn't many.
>
> Email me with any questions, or if you need more photos.
>
> Cheers, and thanks for looking,
>
> John

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[RBW] Re: Wide profile cantis solved the problem

[dougP]

Jim:

V-brakes were Plan B because that would require a change of levers.
I've not had any personal experience with them but see them on a lot
of bikes, especially tandems.  They look like a good set-up for a bike
that gets packed & shipped, being tidy & out of the way.

Did your Atlantis come with V-brakes or did you change them?

dougP

On Sep 7, 1:46 pm, James Warren  wrote:
> That's cool Doug. I love Atlantis data.
>
> My own story this summer was a bit different. I did a tour and found good 
> satisfaction with the Deore V Brakes when slowing down my loaded Atlantis on 
> some steep hills.
>
> -Jim W.
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> >From: dougP 
> >Sent: Sep 7, 2011 11:33 AM
> >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> >Subject: [RBW] Wide profile cantis solved the problem
>
> >The recent thread about cantis in general & my wife's Atlantis' lack
> >of braking power during a recen tour got me motivated to once again
> >delve into the arcane world of brakes.  A few years back I had changed
> >the original narrow profile Shimano cantis that came stock on my
> >Atlantis in '03 to the Tektro CR-720.  This was driven by a lack of
> >braking power that was especiallly problematic with a full load.  We
> >bought my wife's Atlantis 3rd hand less than a year ago but the bike
> >is essentially brand new, down to the original bar tape.  Standard Riv
> >build, including the narrow profile Shimano cantis.  To someone's
> >credit, it was equipped with Kool Stop Salmon pads, but even with that
> >braking was marginal, even with careful adjustments to the set-up.
>
> >Last week I took the stock Shimano SLR brakes off my 20+ year old MTB,
> >changed the rock hard stock pads for the Salmon Kool Stops and
> >installed the old wide profile cantis on her Atlantis.  We headed for
> >the hills & voila!  She's now quite confident in the braking power and
> >much more comfortable.  Same levers, same pads, just different
> >geometry brakes.
>
> >To Rivendell's credit, I see the Tektros are the brake listed on a
> >typical build for the Atlantis.
>
> >dougP
>
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[RBW] Re: If at first you don't sell...

[Marty]

Thanks for selling it John - I was racking my brain trying to come up with 
the cash, but I have my own this-old-house projects competing with my meager 
mad money. 

Marty

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[RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[EricP]

Patrick,

On the bike with the rear wired tail light, just ran the wire across
the rack held down with zip ties, then a few wraps around one of the
rack stays, along the top tube (again held with zip ties), to the
brake cable housing, then down parallel to the bike computer wire to
the light.  At that point, the wires were soldered together and
covered in shrink wrap.

Very basic, but should keep the tail light wires away from sludge and
crud in winter.  It's a non-Rivendell (Surly LHT) with Tubus rear rack
and the B&M Toplight Line Plus bolted to the rear rack.

Have not come up with a satisfactory wiring system for the E3 and
corresponding tail light on the Sam Hillborne.  The previous wiring
actually caused the headlight to fail.  Admit to a bit of fear of
trying it again.  Additionally, don't like the Supernova tail light as
I prefer something with a reflector.  But no other tail light is
compatible with the E3.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN


On Sep 7, 11:31 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Eric: will you share with us your rear light wiring strategy? Thanks.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[PATRICK MOORE]

Thanks, Eric. I'm thinking of converting at least two bikes to dyno
powered tail lamps and any wiring info is useful.

'Nother question: can you use the E3 tail light with, say an Edeluxe or Cyo?

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 6:43 PM, EricP  wrote:
> Patrick,
>
> On the bike with the rear wired tail light, just ran the wire across
> the rack held down with zip ties, then a few wraps around one of the
> rack stays, along the top tube (again held with zip ties), to the
> brake cable housing, then down parallel to the bike computer wire to
> the light.  At that point, the wires were soldered together and
> covered in shrink wrap.
>
> Very basic, but should keep the tail light wires away from sludge and
> crud in winter.  It's a non-Rivendell (Surly LHT) with Tubus rear rack
> and the B&M Toplight Line Plus bolted to the rear rack.
>
> Have not come up with a satisfactory wiring system for the E3 and
> corresponding tail light on the Sam Hillborne.  The previous wiring
> actually caused the headlight to fail.  Admit to a bit of fear of
> trying it again.  Additionally, don't like the Supernova tail light as
> I prefer something with a reflector.  But no other tail light is
> compatible with the E3.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
>
> On Sep 7, 11:31 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>> Eric: will you share with us your rear light wiring strategy? Thanks.
>>
>
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For professional resumes, contact
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http://resumespecialties.com/index.html

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RE: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Not according to Peter White.  He says you can only use Supernovas with other 
Supernovas: "Supernova lights are not compatible with other brands of lights. 
You can't mix and match Supernova headlights with other brands of taillight, 
and you can't use Supernova taillights with other brands of headlight. 
Supernova lights come with tough wiring for the taillight that is hard wired. 
They do not use the same metric connectors as used by Busch & Müller, Wilfried 
Schmidt and Spanninga."


 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of PATRICK MOORE
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 8:57 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

Thanks, Eric. I'm thinking of converting at least two bikes to dyno powered 
tail lamps and any wiring info is useful.

'Nother question: can you use the E3 tail light with, say an Edeluxe or Cyo?

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 6:43 PM, EricP  wrote:
> Patrick,
>
> On the bike with the rear wired tail light, just ran the wire across 
> the rack held down with zip ties, then a few wraps around one of the 
> rack stays, along the top tube (again held with zip ties), to the 
> brake cable housing, then down parallel to the bike computer wire to 
> the light.  At that point, the wires were soldered together and 
> covered in shrink wrap.
>
> Very basic, but should keep the tail light wires away from sludge and 
> crud in winter.  It's a non-Rivendell (Surly LHT) with Tubus rear rack 
> and the B&M Toplight Line Plus bolted to the rear rack.
>
> Have not come up with a satisfactory wiring system for the E3 and 
> corresponding tail light on the Sam Hillborne.  The previous wiring 
> actually caused the headlight to fail.  Admit to a bit of fear of 
> trying it again.  Additionally, don't like the Supernova tail light as 
> I prefer something with a reflector.  But no other tail light is 
> compatible with the E3.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
>
> On Sep 7, 11:31 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>> Eric: will you share with us your rear light wiring strategy? Thanks.
>>
>
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Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy

[cyclotourist]

http://www.bicycling.com/gearfinderproductdetail?gfid=52589


On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 3:22 PM, Tim Whalen  wrote:

> Excellent!
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 4:10 PM, James Warren wrote:
>
>> Thank you Tim! That works.
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Tim Whalen **
>> Sent: Sep 7, 2011 2:34 PM
>> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [RBW] Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy
>>
>> Jim,
>>
>> I found it by going to www.bicycling.com and then putting roadeo into the
>> site search feature.  There's two reviews there, one of the bike that was
>> cited here and an earlier one of the frame alone.
>> Tim
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 14:02 -0700, James Warren wrote:
>>> > I want to read the Roadeo review. This sounds silly, but I tried Barnes
>>> and Noble and some other newsstands, and I just can't find a copy of
>>> Bicycling magazine. My LBS doesn't stock it. A big store (Helen's) might
>>> have it, but they are far away.
>>> >
>>> > Any suggestions?
>>>
>>> Many public libraries subscribe to it.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>>>
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Great American Bike Tour 1975

[Way Rebb]

I liked the music, typical 70s film music that nobody ever bought or
listened but Hollywood loved to use for cheesy movies.

>From the bike fit section I tried the forearm (saddle to handle bars)
measure on the Hillborne and came up way short, about four inches,
barely reached the stem.  Interesting thing, I've been thinking of
trying a shorter stem. MIght be something to that.  I've read a
zillion different ways to fit a bike.  Is the way I have it
comfortable or optimal or am I just used to it, I dunno.

On Sep 5, 6:33 am, Mike  wrote:
> A fun an interesting video with Rivish content--Brooks saddles,
> Pletscher racks, Rivish bike fitting and fashion. The rear disc brake
> on the bikes is interesting. Enjoy!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k10233DdFi0
>
> --mike

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Build + Reaction

[Aaron Schmidt]

Thanks! I need to find a volunteer to ride this bike so I can ride
behind and see how bright that thing really is!


On Sep 7, 2:26 pm, stevep33  wrote:
> Nice job with the lights. I really like how the E3 taillight fits behind the
> seat cluster.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronschmidt/6106429018/in/photostream

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Build + Reaction

[Aaron Schmidt]

On Sep 7, 12:16 pm, Rex Kerr  wrote:
> What did you use to space the rear fender from the kickstand plate?  Looks
> like valve stem nuts. :-)

Yep. Precisely. Turns out that they're decent spacers.


>
> Also... what's the deal with the counterweight?  I can't imagine that it's
> there for the same purpose as weight on car tires, as the valve stem hole's
> weight loss would be more than countered by variations in the tire

I think it is opposite the weld in the rim but you'd think that the
valve stem might be enough to offset the weld. I dunno if it is very
effective but it is a nice looking detail.

>
> As for the other comments on the VO seatpost... I have their two bolt model,
> and it looks nice, but it's a bit hard to get it right.  If the top plate
> doesn't directly align with the bottom it'll loosen and the saddle will
> creak.  I'm actually not sure how might to tighten it down, it doesn't seem
> to have a natural affinity for a certain amount of torque like a single bolt
> seatpost.

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty partial to Thomson posts (never ever
had a problem, not even coming loose and the adjustability is great)
but might branch and get a two bolt Nitto.

>
> -Rex

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[RBW] slipping Silver shifter

[mho]

I have the downtube Silver shifter.  The shifter that controls the
front derailleur slips ever so slightly every 3 minutes or so.  I
don't get ghost shifts, but I do get annoying chain rub on the front
derailleur cage.
Trimming it every 3 minutes is annoying.  Any tips on preventing the
slip?

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[RBW] FS: Touring items- Like-new Ortlieb Bike Packer + Panniers & Used Nitto Big Back Rack

[Mike On A Bike]

I am looking to parlay some of my not-ideal-for-me touring gear into a
bike trailer and here's what I've got:

1) A pair of never used black Ortlieb Bike Packer Plus Panniers. I
bought these a little more than a year ago and have never needed to
use them because I have a bag setup that works better for me. They've
been sitting in a closet and have no damage. Asking price is $150.

2) A Nitto big back rack. This is about two years old and it has been
mounted on my backup bike in that time. There is no damage to it aside
from probably some scratches, and I have all of the stays and clamps
it came with. I would call it very good used condition. I'm asking
$140 for this.

$275 for both items purchased together

Pictures of both items available upon request. Thanks for your
interest!

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[RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[Ediblestarfish]

I currently use a Philips LED SafeRide Synamo light I got from Bike24.com

http://www.bike24.net/p219881.html

I have a review and comparison of it between an IQ CYO-RT on the candlepower 
forums.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?317543-Quick-notes-on-Philips-SafeRide-vs.-B-amp-M-IQ-CYO-RT

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[RBW] Re: Bike registration (Was: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF)

[Mattt]

 It more important to know the serial number with a picture of the
serial number and a picture of the bike.  When the bike is stolen, you
provide the serial number and then the serial number goes in either a
local database or NCIC (National Crime Information Center) or both.
NCIC is a national database that is used by all law enforcement in the
nation.  If a bike is stolen in San Fran and shipped to New York and
recovered as stolen in NY, the police there can look up the serial and
find the agency that reported it stolen.  This occurs with any item
stolen that has a serial number.   Police are not going to actively
look for your bicycle.  But if they catch someone stealing a bike or
find a bunch of bikes in a bust (drug bust or something of that
nature) they can match the serial numbers to stolen bikes in the
database as previously mentioned.  Hopefully your servicing police
department puts your bike into NCIC and I would call to make sure they
do.  If they do not put it in you have nothing because it cannot be
matched by any other department.

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RE: [RBW] Re: suggestions for shimmy?

[Marc Schwartz]

Dear Nicole &tc

Perhaps cork or leather fender washers (as sold by Velo Orange, Rene Herse 
(Boulder), and others) at the rack mounting bolts would provide sufficient 
damping to deal with the shimmy, yet allow enough tightening torque on the 
bolts to prevent them from working loose over time due to road vibrations.

Fall comes to New Mexico; Smell the green chile a'roasting!!!

Marc
__


On Sep 7, 5:33 pm, NME  wrote:
> Thank you all for your really insightful comments!  I tried a few more
> things, including some your suggestions -- made sure the wheels were
> aligned, checked tire pressure, etc.
>
> I noticed that the problem was much worse when I was on smooth
> asphalt, but would almost disappear when I was riding on gravel,
> cobblestones, or bricked sidewalk, so it occurred to me that the
> problem was this "harmonic" vibration -- not that the bike was out of
> alignment, but that it was too perfectly aligned.  So on a whim, I
> *loosened* the bolts to the rack -- not enough that the rack wobbles
> or is in danger of coming unscrewed, but just enough that there can be
> some miniscule "give" between the rack and the frame.  My idea was
> that if I could disrupt the perfect transmission of this vibration,
> then it wouldn't radiate to the front wheel, but would cancel itself
> out.dear
>
> It was the exact opposite of DougP's suggestion and the opposite of my
> original inclination, but it worked!  It went from violent shimmy to
> completely smooth.  No shaking at any speed.
>
> Is this perhaps another version of the "self-restoring force" Ken was
> talking about?  (The maths are also beyond me.)  In any case, if the
> problem happens again in another context, I'll be sure to look into
> "tire damping" (nice term) as a first resort!
>
> --
>
> Thanks again, everyone! I'll finally be posting pictures of my AHH
> soon, now that I've got it properly scratched up and broken in.  Five
> months in Berlin, and besides the daily commute, a few wonderful day
> rides already, and and now some inn-to-inn rides planned for fall.
>
> Nicole
>
> P.S. in answer to Ken's question -- neither me nor my mechanic are
> well-skilled.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

[PATRICK MOORE]

Oh well; wonder if it's just the connectors. I like the small,
compact, easy-mount design of the E3 taillight. I may try a hack --
can't see why a very low power LED tail would not work with a typical
LED 3 w headlight. Thanks for the PJW text.

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 7:01 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J
 wrote:
> Not according to Peter White.  He says you can only use Supernovas with other 
> Supernovas: "Supernova lights are not compatible with other brands of lights. 
> You can't mix and match Supernova headlights with other brands of taillight, 
> and you can't use Supernova taillights with other brands of headlight. 
> Supernova lights come with tough wiring for the taillight that is hard wired. 
> They do not use the same metric connectors as used by Busch & Müller, 
> Wilfried Schmidt and Spanninga."
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of PATRICK MOORE
> Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 8:57 PM
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?
>
> Thanks, Eric. I'm thinking of converting at least two bikes to dyno powered 
> tail lamps and any wiring info is useful.
>
> 'Nother question: can you use the E3 tail light with, say an Edeluxe or Cyo?
>
> On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 6:43 PM, EricP  wrote:
>> Patrick,
>>
>> On the bike with the rear wired tail light, just ran the wire across
>> the rack held down with zip ties, then a few wraps around one of the
>> rack stays, along the top tube (again held with zip ties), to the
>> brake cable housing, then down parallel to the bike computer wire to
>> the light.  At that point, the wires were soldered together and
>> covered in shrink wrap.
>>
>> Very basic, but should keep the tail light wires away from sludge and
>> crud in winter.  It's a non-Rivendell (Surly LHT) with Tubus rear rack
>> and the B&M Toplight Line Plus bolted to the rear rack.
>>
>> Have not come up with a satisfactory wiring system for the E3 and
>> corresponding tail light on the Sam Hillborne.  The previous wiring
>> actually caused the headlight to fail.  Admit to a bit of fear of
>> trying it again.  Additionally, don't like the Supernova tail light as
>> I prefer something with a reflector.  But no other tail light is
>> compatible with the E3.
>>
>> Eric Platt
>> St. Paul, MN
>>
>>
>> On Sep 7, 11:31 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>>> Eric: will you share with us your rear light wiring strategy? Thanks.
>>>
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: suggestions for shimmy?

[Ken Freeman]

I like that idea, absorb some of the resonant energy present in the loaded
rack, which is presumably vibrating.

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 12:29 PM, Marc Schwartz  wrote:

> Dear Nicole &tc
>
> Perhaps cork or leather fender washers (as sold by Velo Orange, Rene Herse
> (Boulder), and others) at the rack mounting bolts would provide sufficient
> damping to deal with the shimmy, yet allow enough tightening torque on the
> bolts to prevent them from working loose over time due to road vibrations.
>
> Fall comes to New Mexico; Smell the green chile a'roasting!!!
>
> Marc
> __
>
>
> On Sep 7, 5:33 pm, NME  wrote:
> > Thank you all for your really insightful comments!  I tried a few more
> > things, including some your suggestions -- made sure the wheels were
> > aligned, checked tire pressure, etc.
> >
> > I noticed that the problem was much worse when I was on smooth
> > asphalt, but would almost disappear when I was riding on gravel,
> > cobblestones, or bricked sidewalk, so it occurred to me that the
> > problem was this "harmonic" vibration -- not that the bike was out of
> > alignment, but that it was too perfectly aligned.  So on a whim, I
> > *loosened* the bolts to the rack -- not enough that the rack wobbles
> > or is in danger of coming unscrewed, but just enough that there can be
> > some miniscule "give" between the rack and the frame.  My idea was
> > that if I could disrupt the perfect transmission of this vibration,
> > then it wouldn't radiate to the front wheel, but would cancel itself
> > out.dear
> >
> > It was the exact opposite of DougP's suggestion and the opposite of my
> > original inclination, but it worked!  It went from violent shimmy to
> > completely smooth.  No shaking at any speed.
> >
> > Is this perhaps another version of the "self-restoring force" Ken was
> > talking about?  (The maths are also beyond me.)  In any case, if the
> > problem happens again in another context, I'll be sure to look into
> > "tire damping" (nice term) as a first resort!
> >
> > --
> >
> > Thanks again, everyone! I'll finally be posting pictures of my AHH
> > soon, now that I've got it properly scratched up and broken in.  Five
> > months in Berlin, and besides the daily commute, a few wonderful day
> > rides already, and and now some inn-to-inn rides planned for fall.
> >
> > Nicole
> >
> > P.S. in answer to Ken's question -- neither me nor my mechanic are
> > well-skilled.
>
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-- 
Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] Re: Need Help Finding a "Bicycling" to Buy

[Philip Williamson]

Brilliant! Thanks for that. Hopefully, with lots of "Roadeo" searches
and lots of people reading the article, maybe they'll review more
Rivendell and more steel. And ideally, maybe people were turned on to
the bike and to Rivendell from the review. The adjective
"iconoclastic" would get me to put Grant's name into Google.

It was a magazine review contrasting the Allrounder to a Cannodale in
the mid-90s that turned me on to Rivendell.

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On Sep 7, 2:34 pm, Tim Whalen  wrote:
> Jim,
>
> I found it by going towww.bicycling.comand then putting roadeo into the
> site search feature.  There's two reviews there, one of the bike that was
> cited here and an earlier one of the frame alone.
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> > On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 14:02 -0700, James Warren wrote:
> > > I want to read the Roadeo review. This sounds silly, but I tried Barnes
> > and Noble and some other newsstands, and I just can't find a copy of
> > Bicycling magazine. My LBS doesn't stock it. A big store (Helen's) might
> > have it, but they are far away.
>
> > > Any suggestions?
>
> > Many public libraries subscribe to it.
>
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[RBW] New Foss tube? and tire?

[charlie]

Wondering if the new Foss tubes hold air as good as the Schwalbe tubes
plus. I need to make a good choice for my SimpleOne with the Open
Pro rims. I need a 35mm wide tire with excellent puncture resistance
and good performance. I don't have room for uber fat tires plus my
weight, rim width, fender clearance (for gear changes) requires a 35mm
(actual) width. I am thinking the Marathon Supreme in the 700x35 size
or the Duremes. I also considered a Green guard Marathon (700x35) due
to lower cost but being on a one speed I don't want to ride sluggish
tires. Got a flat today using my standard Paselas  (a dang staple) but
I repaired it in 13 minutes. I like the ride of the Pasela and its a
pretty light tire at around 400 grams so I want something
similarjust don't want flats. Good thing it happened on the way
home rather than to work.

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[RBW] Re: slipping Silver shifter

[dougP]

Sounds like a lack of friction.  Try adding a star lock washer to the
stack'o'stuff under the D-ring, and/or a "wobble washer".  There is
probably a more correct term for these but they are washers that are
formed as a continuous spring, not flat but out of plane.

dougP

On Sep 7, 2:05 pm, mho  wrote:
> I have the downtube Silver shifter.  The shifter that controls the
> front derailleur slips ever so slightly every 3 minutes or so.  I
> don't get ghost shifts, but I do get annoying chain rub on the front
> derailleur cage.
> Trimming it every 3 minutes is annoying.  Any tips on preventing the
> slip?

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[RBW] Re: slipping Silver shifter

[Ginz]

Also, try beeswax on the threads of the adjustment bolt.

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[RBW] Re: New Foss tube? and tire?

[Philip Williamson]

35mm is the best size (that I've found) for optimum gearing
flexibility on my Quickbeam, too. I think it's the size the bike was
designed for. Maximum size, maybe. I loved my 28s when I was lighter
(200#) and rode more on nice asphalt and none on gravel logging
roads.

I'm tempted by the JB Greens at 33.3mm, but every mm helps in gravel.

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On Sep 7, 8:15 pm, charlie  wrote:
> Wondering if the new Foss tubes hold air as good as the Schwalbe tubes
> plus. I need to make a good choice for my SimpleOne with the Open
> Pro rims. I need a 35mm wide tire with excellent puncture resistance
> and good performance. I don't have room for uber fat tires plus my
> weight, rim width, fender clearance (for gear changes) requires a 35mm
> (actual) width. I am thinking the Marathon Supreme in the 700x35 size
> or the Duremes. I also considered a Green guard Marathon (700x35) due
> to lower cost but being on a one speed I don't want to ride sluggish
> tires. Got a flat today using my standard Paselas  (a dang staple) but
> I repaired it in 13 minutes. I like the ride of the Pasela and its a
> pretty light tire at around 400 grams so I want something
> similarjust don't want flats. Good thing it happened on the way
> home rather than to work.

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[RBW] New Rivendell Tee Shirts?

[Philip Williamson]

I wore my Rivendell shirt today, "No One But No One Makes A Monkey Out
Of Us," which is suitably opaque, but getting a little frayed. I was
looking at the new shirts on Rivbike.com, just now, and while the
orange and green are fantastic colors, they're out of stock in all
sizes but small.

I think a line of tee shirts with line drawings of Rivendell bicycle
models would be fantastic. The other thing I'd really like is a
Hunqapillar headbadge tee shirt! What if... what if Rivendell had
shirts for each model - small headbadge on the front, big bike drawing
on the back? Would you buy one? Two?

And, hunqapillarrelevant, did you know that on the Ice Age island of
Santarosae, the peaks of which are the Channel Islands off the
California coast, there were "pygmy mammoths?" An oxymoron like "Mini
Super," the pygmy mammoth still stood 6 feet at the shoulder.

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

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Re: [RBW] New Rivendell Tee Shirts?

[Seth Vidal]

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 11:57 PM, Philip Williamson
 wrote:
> I wore my Rivendell shirt today, "No One But No One Makes A Monkey Out
> Of Us," which is suitably opaque, but getting a little frayed. I was
> looking at the new shirts on Rivbike.com, just now, and while the
> orange and green are fantastic colors, they're out of stock in all
> sizes but small.
>
> I think a line of tee shirts with line drawings of Rivendell bicycle
> models would be fantastic. The other thing I'd really like is a
> Hunqapillar headbadge tee shirt! What if... what if Rivendell had
> shirts for each model - small headbadge on the front, big bike drawing
> on the back? Would you buy one? Two?

I would, maybe if they could be made for historical models, too.

A romulus shirt would be most welcome.

-sv

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RE: [RBW] New Rivendell Tee Shirts?

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Me too.  Bombadil, Quickbeam, Atlantis, SimpleOne, Homer, Bleriot, even the HS 
(if it ever emerges from its cocoon).  They'd be great.

BTW, my wife informed me the other day that "Cogito, Ergo I Ride a Steel Bike" 
is possible a trifle arrogant, as it suggests that riding anything else implies 
an empty head.  Whether the logic is flawed or not, I now live in fear of being 
confronted by a really large carbon-riding guy who thinks I'm casting 
aspersions on his intellect.  Life is so complicated. 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Seth Vidal
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2011 12:10 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] New Rivendell Tee Shirts?

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 11:57 PM, Philip Williamson 
 wrote:
> I wore my Rivendell shirt today, "No One But No One Makes A Monkey Out 
> Of Us," which is suitably opaque, but getting a little frayed. I was 
> looking at the new shirts on Rivbike.com, just now, and while the 
> orange and green are fantastic colors, they're out of stock in all 
> sizes but small.
>
> I think a line of tee shirts with line drawings of Rivendell bicycle 
> models would be fantastic. The other thing I'd really like is a 
> Hunqapillar headbadge tee shirt! What if... what if Rivendell had 
> shirts for each model - small headbadge on the front, big bike drawing 
> on the back? Would you buy one? Two?

I would, maybe if they could be made for historical models, too.

A romulus shirt would be most welcome.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] New Rivendell Tee Shirts?

[Brian Hanson]

I'd love to see artistic renditions of the likes of Samuel Hillborne, A.
Homer Hilsen, and of course Betty Foy/Yves Gomez.  I like the bike on the
back idea.

Brian

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 8:57 PM, Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I wore my Rivendell shirt today, "No One But No One Makes A Monkey Out
> Of Us," which is suitably opaque, but getting a little frayed. I was
> looking at the new shirts on Rivbike.com, just now, and while the
> orange and green are fantastic colors, they're out of stock in all
> sizes but small.
>
> I think a line of tee shirts with line drawings of Rivendell bicycle
> models would be fantastic. The other thing I'd really like is a
> Hunqapillar headbadge tee shirt! What if... what if Rivendell had
> shirts for each model - small headbadge on the front, big bike drawing
> on the back? Would you buy one? Two?
>
> And, hunqapillarrelevant, did you know that on the Ice Age island of
> Santarosae, the peaks of which are the Channel Islands off the
> California coast, there were "pygmy mammoths?" An oxymoron like "Mini
> Super," the pygmy mammoth still stood 6 feet at the shoulder.
>
>  Philip
>
>  Philip Williamson
> www.biketinker.com
>
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Re: [RBW] New Rivendell Tee Shirts?

[Seth Vidal]

On Thu, Sep 8, 2011 at 12:39 AM, Allingham II, Thomas J
 wrote:
> Me too.  Bombadil, Quickbeam, Atlantis, SimpleOne, Homer, Bleriot, even the 
> HS (if it ever emerges from its cocoon).  They'd be great.
>
> BTW, my wife informed me the other day that "Cogito, Ergo I Ride a Steel 
> Bike" is possible a trifle arrogant, as it suggests that riding anything else 
> implies an empty head.  Whether the logic is flawed or not, I now live in 
> fear of being confronted by a really large carbon-riding guy who thinks I'm 
> casting aspersions on his intellect.  Life is so complicated.


Funny, I always thought the point was to cast aspersions on folks' intellects :)

-sv

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[RBW] Re: New Foss tube? and tire?

[charlie]

I agreeI think I need mega puncture proofness though. Are the JB
tires good in that way or would a Marathon Supreme be a better
choice?  I'm still hovering at 258 and 35mm is narrow for me but on
pavement they seem fine.  I just had an annoying experience with a
staple and my commute is filled with all kinds of junk on the side of
the road. Do you think the Green guard Marathon is a better tire for
that than the pricey Supreme?  Money really isn't a deciding factor I
just want good performance and puncture protection.

On Sep 7, 8:29 pm, Philip Williamson 
wrote:
> 35mm is the best size (that I've found) for optimum gearing
> flexibility on my Quickbeam, too. I think it's the size the bike was
> designed for. Maximum size, maybe. I loved my 28s when I was lighter
> (200#) and rode more on nice asphalt and none on gravel logging
> roads.
>
> I'm tempted by the JB Greens at 33.3mm, but every mm helps in gravel.
>
>  Philip
>
>  Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com
>
> On Sep 7, 8:15 pm, charlie  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Wondering if the new Foss tubes hold air as good as the Schwalbe tubes
> > plus. I need to make a good choice for my SimpleOne with the Open
> > Pro rims. I need a 35mm wide tire with excellent puncture resistance
> > and good performance. I don't have room for uber fat tires plus my
> > weight, rim width, fender clearance (for gear changes) requires a 35mm
> > (actual) width. I am thinking the Marathon Supreme in the 700x35 size
> > or the Duremes. I also considered a Green guard Marathon (700x35) due
> > to lower cost but being on a one speed I don't want to ride sluggish
> > tires. Got a flat today using my standard Paselas  (a dang staple) but
> > I repaired it in 13 minutes. I like the ride of the Pasela and its a
> > pretty light tire at around 400 grams so I want something
> > similarjust don't want flats. Good thing it happened on the way
> > home rather than to work.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Schwalbe Kojaks

[nathan spindel]

I do enjoy the Cyprés on my Ebisu, but was hoping for something a bit wider for 
my Pelican which hauls heavy cargo and commutes on the bumpy torn up streets of 
downtown San Francisco.

After everyone's praise of the Kojak I decided to try em out in 700x35 on the 
Pelican, replacing 35mm Paselas. I was surprised to find the Kojak ride less 
lively than the Paselas, and I could swear they appear to be narrower mounted 
(on Synergy) than the Paselas. I'll have to play around with the pressure some 
more, currently around 60/60 (I'm 150 lbs and carry 5-20 lbs of stuff).

-nathan

On Aug 24, 2011, at 5:37 PM, Peter Pesce  wrote:

> I usually run 700x35 TG Kevlar paselas, and the Kojaks feel much livlier. But 
> that is probably due entirely to the fact that they are about 100g lighter. I 
> originally tried them afer reading the BQ test about the "optimum" tire for  
> given wheel size. Jan felt that 700's need to be lighter than 650b's in order 
> to provide the right balance of response and stability, and the Kojak fell 
> right in the weight his study recommended. Unfortunately, I'm not 
> sophisticated enough to detect the subtleties than Jan and others can, so I 
> was hoping for some huge night and day change , which of course didn't 
> happen. But I like them enough that I still ride them and would buy them 
> again. The GB Cypres is probably the uber tire in the 30- 32mm range , but at 
> 1.5 times the price and no puncture protection they're not for me.  
> 
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RE: [RBW] Re: New Foss tube? and tire?

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

JBs are great tires, but nowhere near as good as the Supremes at resisting 
punctures 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of charlie
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2011 12:46 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: New Foss tube? and tire?

I agreeI think I need mega puncture proofness though. Are the JB tires good 
in that way or would a Marathon Supreme be a better choice?  I'm still hovering 
at 258 and 35mm is narrow for me but on pavement they seem fine.  I just had an 
annoying experience with a staple and my commute is filled with all kinds of 
junk on the side of the road. Do you think the Green guard Marathon is a better 
tire for that than the pricey Supreme?  Money really isn't a deciding factor I 
just want good performance and puncture protection.

On Sep 7, 8:29 pm, Philip Williamson 
wrote:
> 35mm is the best size (that I've found) for optimum gearing 
> flexibility on my Quickbeam, too. I think it's the size the bike was 
> designed for. Maximum size, maybe. I loved my 28s when I was lighter
> (200#) and rode more on nice asphalt and none on gravel logging roads.
>
> I'm tempted by the JB Greens at 33.3mm, but every mm helps in gravel.
>
>  Philip
>
>  Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com
>
> On Sep 7, 8:15 pm, charlie  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Wondering if the new Foss tubes hold air as good as the Schwalbe 
> > tubes plus. I need to make a good choice for my SimpleOne with 
> > the Open Pro rims. I need a 35mm wide tire with excellent puncture 
> > resistance and good performance. I don't have room for uber fat 
> > tires plus my weight, rim width, fender clearance (for gear changes) 
> > requires a 35mm
> > (actual) width. I am thinking the Marathon Supreme in the 700x35 
> > size or the Duremes. I also considered a Green guard Marathon 
> > (700x35) due to lower cost but being on a one speed I don't want to 
> > ride sluggish tires. Got a flat today using my standard Paselas  (a 
> > dang staple) but I repaired it in 13 minutes. I like the ride of the 
> > Pasela and its a pretty light tire at around 400 grams so I want 
> > something similarjust don't want flats. Good thing it happened 
> > on the way home rather than to work.

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message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the 
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or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or 
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you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this 
email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. If you receive this 
email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 735-3000 and permanently 
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[RBW] Roadeo Questions

[JL]

Does the Roadeo have a standard Rivendell threaded seat stay and
chainstay bridges?

How are people liking this model compared to other similar models
(AHH, Ram/Rom, etc)?

Thanks
JL

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[RBW] Roadeo Questions

[JL]

Does the Roadeo have a standard Rivendell threaded seat stay and
chainstay bridges?

How are people liking this model compared to other similar models
(AHH, Ram/Rom, etc)?

Thanks
JL

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[RBW] Re: Riv,Miyata, and Pelican stolen in SF

[JL]

Joe,

You and me both.  Keep and eye out for me would you?

JL

On Sep 6, 7:18 pm, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> Damn, that makes my heart hurt.
>
> Joe Bernard
> Fairfield, CA.

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