[RBW] Re: Un-un-racing update: My first ever mountain bike race

[RJM]

Awesome job, Bill. 

I'm a member of a mountain bike team but don't race mountain bikes...well, 
I've done some in the past but I like my woods time to be less competitive 
and more introspective. It's hard work and definitely for those who are fit 
and have great bike handling skills. Our race team puts on a couple of 
races a year and I get to volunteer at them, usually cooking, registration, 
or course marshall. The events are usually quite a bit of fun even for the 
volunteers. At our events there usually are quite a few people who aren't 
in it to win it, but still like to get after it and in the end it seems 
everyone has fun riding bikes. 

Personally, I would do a cyclocross race on a riv, but not a mountain bike 
race. 

On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 9:37:06 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

>
> 
> I'm a pretty devout unracer.  One of my un-unracing activities is I'm the 
> volunteer team mechanic for the El Cerrito High School Mountain bike racing 
> team.  Today's team ride was a non-league race.  It was open to the public 
> and the kids urged me to sign up.  So, I did my first ever mountain bike 
> race.  I entered the Sport category, which might have been above my skill 
> level, but whatever.  The weather was perfect down in Fort Ord, Monterrey.  
> It was pretty exciting to be in a real racing environment.  Other fellas in 
> the 45-54 age group tended to gain time on me in the technical turns and 
> such and the descents, but I was pleased at the ground I'd make up on the 
> climbs.  I was not last in the Sport 45-54, but was close. I think the kids 
> all enjoyed that I got after it. Anyway, it was a memorable day on the 
> bike, and it happened to be a day on the bike that demanded hydraulic disc 
> brakes and through-axles and front suspension.  There's no way I could have 
> used a Rivendell, even a hypothetical fantasy Rivendell.  The fact is, 
> there are bikes out there for most tasks.  Sometimes it's fine to just use 
> the right bike for the task and enjoy the ride.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

[RJM]

I don't think 800 bucks is reasonable for a fully built up steel bike 
outfitted for camping. You could get the Clem Smith for 1600 right now, and 
it is a swell deal and I would say it could be sold for more. I almost 
picked one up but I appreciate the aesthetic appeal of lugs enough to have 
ponied up the cash for an Appaloosa instead. 

the one thing I will say though, after having several rivs (but never a 
custom) at different price pointsthey all ride like quality rides. You 
can rest assured that the Roadini vs. Roadeo argument is an argument 
between two totally functional bikes with swell riding qualities. 


On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 10:02:07 AM UTC-6, anonomous wrote:

>
> My dream Rivendell would be any of their lineup that stripped off all the 
> expensive aesthetic luxuries, while preserving all the function. Same 
> tubes, same geometry, same magical ride. NO lugs, fancy paint, or complex 
> decals. Just Tig welded and powdercoated a single color. 
>
> Imagine all the camping function of an Atlantis, for like $800, of which 
> Riv got to keep 20% instead of 5% or whatever their margins are now. In 
> terms of geo and function Rivendell are literally decades ahead of their 
> time. The bikes are incredibly desirable to young riders. But, 
> frustratingly, their prices are jacked up sky high via a frankly bizarre 
> fixation on superficial luxury, and we just can't afford them! Like, OK, 
> custom made investment-cast lugs are nice looking, but they add zero 
> function to the bike while costing a fortune. Meanwhile the company is 
> constantly on the brink of bankruptcy, presumably due to low volume and low 
> margins. 
>
> Maybe you think that all the superficial luxuries are part of Rivendell's 
> core brand. Maybe! But for me the real interest is the incredibly refined 
> and optimized geometry and construction. Lugs aren't worth anything to me, 
> personally. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

[RJM]

Even though I would choose a disc Hunq if they offered it, I do agree with 
what you wrote, Mark. Rivs stop pretty well already and they just don't 
really need to add a disc brake unless it's warranted, like with the tandem.

On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 4:48:02 PM UTC-6, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> I am going to rest my case {sustained applause} but I do want to clarify, 
> the main tenet  of my position has little to do with the efficacy of the 
> technology or the ease of setup, at least not in the conventional sense. I 
> had disc brakes on several cargo bikes and, briefly, a folder that came my 
> way. They worked okay, if a bit noisy. I am sure I could learn to work on 
> them. I have already used more than my allotted space on this and other 
> threads trying to explain my reasoning for  not being enamored of disc 
> brakes for basic, single rider non extreme bicycles. By the  way, like 
> jumbo shrimp, electric bicycle is an oxymoron;^] 
>
> Anyway, there is no doubt discs are here to stay, and have infiltrated 
> virtually every segment of the bicycle market. Which makes pining for a 
> disc braked Rivendell a little weird, since you can already get one 
> virtually any place else you care to go. I get that some think it will help 
> the company economically,  but I kinda don't see it having that much impact.
>
> On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 2:56:28 PM UTC-5, Bob K. wrote:
>>
>> IME, mechanical disc brakes work really well. Hydros work really, really 
>> well. I agree with you, Mark, that we humans tend to embrace new technology 
>> rather quickly, often without considering consequences. However, mechanical 
>> disc brakes on a bike are—at this point—tried and true. I’m a philistine 
>> and a ham-fisted novice bike mechanic, and I’ve been able to figure out how 
>> to adjust both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes by watching a couple of 
>> YouTube videos. The cr720s on my Sam are much more annoying to set up, 
>> actually. In other words, I don’t think mechanical disc brakes on a bike 
>> are one of those technologies of which we should be wary. 
>>
>> I have no skin in the game here. I likely wouldn’t buy a disc Hunq 
>> because I already like the disc Surly Troll I own. I also don’t think Riv 
>> will make a disc-braked bike, but it’s fun to dream. 
>>
>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>
>

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[RBW] Clem Smith Jr or Appaloosa as a mtb/gravel road bicycle.

[RJM]

Hey Patrick, I’ve been reading your blog and just wanted to say thanks for 
taking the time to record your thoughts and feelings on your rides. 

You are certainly putting that quickbeam through the paces and congrats for 
that. I have a rigid single speed mtb (not riv) that I use fairly often and 
find it to be quite a bit of fun too. Two speeds - sit and stand. Yes, you are 
correct; you are always in the right gear on a single speed...not the other way 
around.

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[RBW] Re: Fixed Gear and Crank Arm Length

[RJM]

I switched from 172.5 and 175 to 165 because I was getting knee pain and 
some research told me that it may have to do with crank length. It worked, 
after switching the distance my leg had to travel on each pedal stroke and 
for some reason helped the knee pain.  The short cranks helped with pedal 
strikes on the mtbs too. 

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 3:33:36 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Both my Hunqapillar and Quickbeam have 175mm crank arms. Pedal strikes 
> have been a non-issue on the roads, but I’ve had a few, slow and 
> inconsequential, strikes on the trails. Those of you with experience (not 
> speculation, but actual riding experience): could you please help me 
> understand the effect of crank arm length in fixed gear riding on: 
>
> — decreased leverage of a shorter arm. Is this a real-world, material 
> effect, or inconsequential. Put another way, if I go with 170 or 165mm 
> crank arms, am I going to need to go with a 42t instead of 44t chainring? 
> Or is the difference slight and inconsequential compared with increased 
> pedal clearence? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Have you loved your model of Rivendell so much that you bought one of every color?

[RJM]

Nope, but I’ve paid extra for a custom color on my Roadeo.

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

[RJM]

This is an addition to my previous reply in this thread. 

I've ridden the same local mtb trails on my cyclocross bike (carbon Kona 
Jake the Snake), my Santa Cruz Hightower, and my Niner Sir9 and they all 
offer a different experience...I would think a Rivendell Hunqadiscer would 
offer a different experience too probably a cross between the cyclocross 
bike and the Niner If I were picking, I would want a fully lugged version. 
I just think those beautiful lugs really set Rivs apart from a lot of 
builders.  I'd honestly hock my Hightower and the Niner for one.

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 2:30:33 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Now that I've conjured up my future-Riv on the "what type of bike" thread 
> (full disclosure: I also sent an email to Roman @ Riv), I guess I'll 
> campaign for it on its own thread. 
>
> I know Grant/Riv isn't big on disc brakes, but a lot of people prefer them 
> in the dirt. I'm not sure there's much of a market for a pricier 
> fully-lugged disc Riv, but a Hunqapillar-ish semi-TIGed 650B model in the 
> Clem/Roadini price range would be the bee's pajamas. Would you buy a Riv 
> dirt bike (I'm campaigning for a small "dirt bike" decal, too) with 
> mechanical discs?
>
> Joe "weak hands" Bernard
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

[RJM]

If they offered it I would choose it and use hydraulics. I've used 
mechanical and hydros on mountain bikes and vastly prefer hydros and the 
one finger braking they offer. They allow you to brake later with more 
control, IMHO. 

But, V brakes aren't all that bad either. A bit grabbier than discs, but 
still pretty powerful. 

I have a Niner Sir9 rigid mountain bike with a Niner carbon fork and find 
that riding rigid, you wind up going slower downhill, so the powerful 
brakes operating with one finger may not be needed with a rigid bike. I 
still have hydros on that bike, but they are Sram brakes, so they suck. 

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 2:30:33 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Now that I've conjured up my future-Riv on the "what type of bike" thread 
> (full disclosure: I also sent an email to Roman @ Riv), I guess I'll 
> campaign for it on its own thread. 
>
> I know Grant/Riv isn't big on disc brakes, but a lot of people prefer them 
> in the dirt. I'm not sure there's much of a market for a pricier 
> fully-lugged disc Riv, but a Hunqapillar-ish semi-TIGed 650B model in the 
> Clem/Roadini price range would be the bee's pajamas. Would you buy a Riv 
> dirt bike (I'm campaigning for a small "dirt bike" decal, too) with 
> mechanical discs?
>
> Joe "weak hands" Bernard
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr or Appaloosa as a mtb/gravel road bicycle.

[RJM]

I got the silver color. I honestly love both colors equally, so I left the 
choice up to chance and by chance they only had the silver left in my 
size...so. lol. 



On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 12:53:39 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> You're going to love it, RJM. Take a good long look at that awesome fork 
> crown when you get it. What color?

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr or Appaloosa as a mtb/gravel road bicycle.

[RJM]

Thanks for the responses everybody. 

Well, I've gone and done itjust got off the phone with Will at Riv and 
ordered an Appaloosa. Honestly, it came down to the lugs and that sweet 
headbadge. lol. 

Now I have a few weeks to put a parts list together and figure out how to 
properly set this bike up.

I'm very excited about this one. I've owned three Rivs in the past but they 
were primarily road bikes and I have since taken myself off the roads and 
hit the trails and less traveled gravel roads. If I still owned the Sam H I 
had I would just convert that over to gravel/trail duty but I am very 
interested to try out these long chainstays. One issue with the gravel 
roads around me is that the gravel is deep and over hardpack which makes a 
bike with 32's or 38's pretty sketchy when going downhill, sketchy enough 
to detract from the happiness of the ride. The Appaloosa with its long 
chainstays and bigger tire clearance should theoretically be pretty awesome 
on it. I currently have a Kona cross bike which is decidely less awesome on 
those roads, for sure. PlusLugs. 



On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 10:30:17 AM UTC-6, RJM wrote:
>
> Does anybody on the list ride an Appaloosa or Clem Smith Jr. as a mountain 
> bike or have it set up primarily as a trail bike?  I've been toying around 
> with the idea of picking up a Riv to use on the local trails and gravel 
> roads and saw the Clem Smith on Riv's page. I must confess these bikes 
> weren't really on my radar until earlier this week until I really started 
> doing some research. It seems like the Clem or App might be perfect for 
> what I would like (the mustard color on the Clem is top notch!). 
>
> If you do have one, how does it ride for you? Do you like the long 
> chainstays?  How stable is the bike?  Any issues making quick turns with 
> the long wheelbase? 
>

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Re: [RBW] What type of bike would make you buy another riv

[RJM]

Thanks Tim, 

Yeah, I may eventually do that but I think if I were to go custom I would 
talk myself into a sweet mountain mixte. A few years ago there was a blug 
article (I think it was even before the blug was a thing) about a mountain 
mixte that was brown and cream in color. Great lugs on that bike. That bike 
with clearance for a 2.2 knobby and stout enough tubes in the right places 
to take the abuse of a rooty and rocky trail would be sweet. I'd get it in 
purple too. 

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 10:37:08 AM UTC-6, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> RJM- you can still order a Legolas. But I think at custom pricing. 
>
> Sent from my iPhone 
>
> > On Feb 3, 2018, at 7:38 AM, RJM > 
> wrote: 
> > 
> > I have two. 
> > 
> > First is a Legolas cyclocross bike. I’ve started racing cross this year 
> for fun and found out it is an awesome good time. A Legolas I would buy 
> today, right now. 
> > 
> > Second is a mountain mixte. I’d even take a cheviot with v brakes but 
> I’m not sure if the tubes would be stout enough for what I want to load up 
> and ride. Honestly, I’m seriously thinking about picking up a cheviot or an 
> Appaloosa soon though. 
> > 
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[RBW] Clem Smith Jr or Appaloosa as a mtb/gravel road bicycle.

[RJM]

Does anybody on the list ride an Appaloosa or Clem Smith Jr. as a mountain 
bike or have it set up primarily as a trail bike?  I've been toying around 
with the idea of picking up a Riv to use on the local trails and gravel 
roads and saw the Clem Smith on Riv's page. I must confess these bikes 
weren't really on my radar until earlier this week until I really started 
doing some research. It seems like the Clem or App might be perfect for 
what I would like (the mustard color on the Clem is top notch!). 

If you do have one, how does it ride for you? Do you like the long 
chainstays?  How stable is the bike?  Any issues making quick turns with 
the long wheelbase? 

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[RBW] What type of bike would make you buy another riv

[RJM]

I have two. 

First is a Legolas cyclocross bike. I’ve started racing cross this year for fun 
and found out it is an awesome good time. A Legolas I would buy today, right 
now.

Second is a mountain mixte. I’d even take a cheviot with v brakes but I’m not 
sure if the tubes would be stout enough for what I want to load up and ride. 
Honestly, I’m seriously thinking about picking up a cheviot or an Appaloosa 
soon though. 

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[RBW] Re: Houseless Sam Hillborne in Portland, Oregon

[RJM]

I do believe this is theft...might be well intentioned and the owner 
*might* get their bike bike but what does the person do if the owner can't 
be found? Bottom line is that the person cut the lock and took a bike that 
does not belong to them. 

But, it may work out for the best in the end provided the lock cutter 
actually gets in contact with the owner. He/She should have provided a real 
picture of the bike in question though and contact Riv to do a serial 
number search. 

I would not do what this person has done though. 

On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 1:23:26 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Interesting. It isn’t theft if you take something that isn’t yours but 
> don’t intend to permanently deprive the owner of the property.   
>
> So I could take a bike that isn’t mine, use it for six months and put it 
> back where I ‘found’ it without committing theft?  Is there a different 
> statute I’ve broken in that situation?   
>
> Bill Lindsay 
> El Cerrito Ca

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[RBW] Re: Who rides an off-roadish Sam?

[RJM]

I meant Rock n' Road tires. lol. 

I had Fatty Rumpkins on the bike before the Rock n' Roads and they handled 
crushed limestone trails great too. 

I found V-brakes powerful enough to not give me any issue braking on 
trails, but in my experience hydraulic discs are on a whole 'nuther level 
of awesome. If you are looking for a MUSA bike with discs, 650b wheels, and 
room for fat tires you could check out CHUMBA bikes. They have one called 
the Terlingua that checks all those boxes, but it is a welded steel frame 
and not lugged. 

On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 9:25:18 AM UTC-6, RJM wrote:

> Back when I had my orange canti Sam H I initially set it up as a road bike 
> with Noodles, bar end shifters, and v-brakes and the bike really rode well. 
> It was a 650 b wheeled bike with Velocity Dyads and the Rivy freewheel 
> hubs. Pretty nice setup. I then changed it to do some trail riding by 
> switching over to some albatross bars with paul thumbies. the bike handled 
> gravel and the more mellower trails around me very well, but when it came 
> to single track with larger roots and not smooth trails, the low bottom 
> bracket height introduced some pedal strikes. When I had it in that 
> configuration I was using Rock n' Roll tires, which are great. 
>
> the Sam isn't a mountain bike, but it makes for a really good trail bike 
> provided your trails are pretty clear of root and rock drops. 
>
> On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 4:45:50 PM UTC-6, Neil Doran wrote:
>
>> I've always loved riding my Sam in the dirt, and regularly 'underbike' my 
>> Sam and my Surly commuter through all manner of trail. Love it.
>>
>> But a big mixed-terrain ride a few weeks back got me thinking about a 
>> more dirt-capable build. Roman's bike also serves as fodder for the idea:
>>
>>
>>
>> Really, the lynch pin is high-volume knobbies, and I think the Cazaderos 
>> are the ones to try. Roman thinks they will fit under 559s. I'm thinking 
>> knobbie tires, a short-reach drop bar rather than Noodles, and maybe even 
>> brifters. I'm not manly enough to go 1x, but a hi-lo double might be sweet.
>>
>> The alternative is a new bike (disk brakes, 650B with room for fatties), 
>> which I really shouldn't do.
>>
>> Let me know what you have done to off-road your Sam!
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Who rides an off-roadish Sam?

[RJM]

Back when I had my orange canti Sam H I initially set it up as a road bike 
with Noodles, bar end shifters, and v-brakes and the bike really rode well. 
It was a 650 b wheeled bike with Velocity Dyads and the Rivy freewheel 
hubs. Pretty nice setup. I then changed it to do some trail riding by 
switching over to some albatross bars with paul thumbies. the bike handled 
gravel and the more mellower trails around me very well, but when it came 
to single track with larger roots and not smooth trails, the low bottom 
bracket height introduced some pedal strikes. When I had it in that 
configuration I was using Rock n' Roll tires, which are great. 

the Sam isn't a mountain bike, but it makes for a really good trail bike 
provided your trails are pretty clear of root and rock drops. 

On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 4:45:50 PM UTC-6, Neil Doran wrote:

> I've always loved riding my Sam in the dirt, and regularly 'underbike' my 
> Sam and my Surly commuter through all manner of trail. Love it.
>
> But a big mixed-terrain ride a few weeks back got me thinking about a more 
> dirt-capable build. Roman's bike also serves as fodder for the idea:
>
>
>
> Really, the lynch pin is high-volume knobbies, and I think the Cazaderos 
> are the ones to try. Roman thinks they will fit under 559s. I'm thinking 
> knobbie tires, a short-reach drop bar rather than Noodles, and maybe even 
> brifters. I'm not manly enough to go 1x, but a hi-lo double might be sweet.
>
> The alternative is a new bike (disk brakes, 650B with room for fatties), 
> which I really shouldn't do.
>
> Let me know what you have done to off-road your Sam!
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell prices going up.

[RJM]

That's what I think. If a custom MUSA frame can be had for not a lot more 
than what a production frame costs, eventually people will choose to go 
custom, choose to purchase overseas produced frames, or go a different 
route for a bicycle. 


On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 10:43:55 AM UTC-6, Belopsky wrote:

> ^Exactly. Waterford is pricing themselves out of the market, sorry not 
> sorry. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell prices going up.

[RJM]

I've had a Taiwan Sam, a Waterford Roadeo, and an Atlantis that I am really 
not sure where it was built. They all rode like Rivendells. I wouldn't have 
a problem with an entire line of Taiwan Rivs provided the quality was the 
same as the Sam I had. 

On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 12:27:31 PM UTC-6, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> Would the perceived “value” of these bikes be less if the design 
> attributes remained and the production went overseas for a respective 
> reduction on the price tag?   
> I’ve felt that the Taiwanese versions are rather highly regarded by Riv 
> staff. I have owned both Waterford and Taiwan built bikes. The Hunqapillar 
> was great but so was the Joe and Sam. 
> For those who love these bikes, would you embrace an entire line of 
> foreign produced Rivs? 
> I would. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[RJM]

The advantage being you can adjust a threadless headset with an allen key, 
which is on a multi-tool. Threaded you got to bring a couple of decent 
sized wrenches to adjust. 

All this talk about headset weight got me to checking and it brought me to 
a website called weight weeniesI shut it down after about three 
minutes. Doood. At some point counting grams becomes dumb. lol.

but, I did find out that most threadless headset weights include the top 
cap and star nut. 

As an aside and a little off topic - I'm currently building up my 1996 
specialized stumpjumper because I was tired of looking at it all sad and in 
pieces in the garage so I had to buy a headset for it. I choose a Hope 1 
1/8" headset because I could find one in an awesome red color and it came 
today. That thing is a work of art...same with the Chris King grip nut 
(lock nut?) headset I had on my Roadeo. Good components are just beautiful. 

>
>

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[RBW] Re: Are you using your real name on here?

[RJM]

I use my initials. It's easy to type and easy to remember and it's the same 
for most websites I visit. 

On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 4:52:31 PM UTC-6, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Yea or nay?

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[RBW] Re: Which tire was ridden on your first excursion into 650b?

[RJM]

Pari Motos were mine. Great tire, but they don't last long enough. 

I ran Fatty Rumpkins on the trails some, and they did well enough. 

On Monday, January 29, 2018 at 9:24:53 PM UTC-6, lum gim fong wrote:

> Mine was Fatty Rumpkins on my 55 Bleriot, after years of riding a 
> carbonalu 700 x 25c bike.
>
> It was so much fun!!! Super comfy!!
>

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[RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[RJM]

Factoring in the headset weight differences and the weight differences 
between a Nitto Technomic 427g vs. a Bontrager race lite 189g road stem 
(just pulling these out of thin air) you might see a half pound difference. 
But, there is something about the classic styling of a nice quill stem on a 
roadeo that really sets it off. Plus, if you were going to be a weight 
weenie, I don't think you would be choosing a steel frame anyway. 


On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 12:50:57 PM UTC-6, JohnS wrote:

> Isn't it still true that you can save 1/2 pound with a threadless steerer 
> tube? Seems like that would help with getting to sub 20lbs. That's what I 
> would prefer to have on my Roadeo, someday
>
> JohnS
>
>
> On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 1:52:55 PM UTC-5, LBleriot wrote:
>>
>> Without the B17 and enormously heavy Crane bell, this gets pretty close 
>> 20 lbs.
>>
>> On Thursday, January 25, 2018 at 6:21:48 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:
>>>
>>> Reading Grant interview where he was saying they were shooting for 
>>> sub-20 wihen they developed  the Roadeo and was wondering if anyone here 
>>> has realized this on their Roadeo.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[RJM]

I had a 53cm Roadeo in Orange that I built up using fairly light weight 
parts and it was under 20 lbs...like 19.5 lbs if I remember correctly. It 
may have been a bit less but I wound up selling it when I bought a Trek 
Emonda SL6, which came in at 16 lbs with the same Rolf wheelset. Off the 
top of my head, here was the build:

53cm Roadeo with threaded headset and fork
Nitto s83 seatpost
Rolf Vigor RS wheels
25mm Continental gp4000s tires (originally had 32mm Stampede Pass tires on 
it but after I ran through those I switched to the GPs) 
Full Ultegra 6800 groupset
bontrager Paradigm saddle
Nitto lugged stem 
Mark's bars by Nitto
Look classic clipless pedals

As a racey road bike it did very well and I really liked it; very 
comfortable and fast bike. I was quite a bit faster on the Roadeo compared 
to the Sam I also had, which was the point for me. If I was going to do it 
again the only change I would do would be to get the threadless fork/stem 
option. I originally bought the Roadeo to be my only road bike and to ride 
with the club on fast, spirited paceline type rides and other centuries. 
The bike worked great for that. I bought the carbon bike on a whim and 
found I also enjoyed the ride and felt it scooted up hills faster. It was 
more responsive but also comfortable, plus the price was right. Since then, 
I've stopped road riding and have re-discovered mountain biking so now I'm 
fresh out of road bikes and have sold them all. lol. 



Ryan (who is currently contemplating a Legolas custom to race cyclocross 
with)





On Thursday, January 25, 2018 at 5:21:48 PM UTC-6, lum gim fong wrote:

> Reading Grant interview where he was saying they were shooting for sub-20 
> wihen they developed  the Roadeo and was wondering if anyone here has 
> realized this on their Roadeo.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you Bunny hop a Rivbike?

[RJM]

Oh yes, it's actually somewhat of a crutch to lift up while clipped in and 
the proper technique to bunny hop doesn't work that way. If you learn to 
bunny hop using flat pedals, you can get more air and bunny hop higher 
objects compared to just lifting up the rear wheel with you clipped in. 

Check this video out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WImyDu450Q

and this one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdUGWeRQ2IU

On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 3:51:12 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:

> I don't ride clipped and I do flat pedals. Is this even possible without 
> being clipped in?

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[RBW] Re: (GIF) Don't know how this can be explained

[RJM]

Oh yeah, 'bents can be super efficient on flats and downhills, but point 
them up and their advantage quickly goes away. 

There is this ride that happens in Missouri every year and the wife and I 
attend; It's a super flat route that is perfect for a bent. If I were to go 
for a course record on that route, I would do it on a 'bent, no doubt. 

Fastest I've ever ridden a bicycle on the flats I was drafting right behind 
a tandem with a strong team pushing hard. I could not believe the speed 
they (and I with their help) were going, but as soon as a hill happened 
their speed decreased greatly and I would drop them.

On Thursday, July 6, 2017 at 5:14:22 AM UTC-5, Larry Charlton wrote:

> Which is why the fastest riders are on recumbents.  I can no longer manage 
> a recumbent because western PA hills don't align with a bike who's saddle 
> can be climbed out of  -- and I'm too old and out-of-shape to spin fast 
> enough to maintain speed.  Mashing on pedals and old knees don't get 
> along.  That said, when I was riding a recumbent I was considerably faster 
> on the flats and downhill with far less effort.  I'm taking my time, now.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Perennial "Can you still get a Legolas?" question

[RJM]

Interesting. I did not realize you could still get a Legolas. 

Man, I could totally see getting a Legolas for cyclocross racing if it has 
the right geometry for it, and it should since it is a cyclocross bike. 
Man, honestly, I would love a purple Legolas set up for racing...I would 
sell my Kona Jake the Snake for that. 

Hmmm, this has my wheels turning now. My wife isn't going to like this.



On Monday, June 26, 2017 at 1:18:59 PM UTC-5, John G. wrote:

> Last I heard, you could still get a Legolas, but at custom prices. I also 
> heard that the main difference between the Legolas and the Roadeo are in 
> the beefiness of the chainstays (and cantis vs calipers).
>
> Is this all still true?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[RJM]

Yeah, I don't think scarcity of parts would be on my list for worries with a 
Riv. Build quality, ride quality, and ease of maintenance has always been great 
with Rivendells for me.

But, and this is just for me and my current riding life,  Riv is unfortunately 
not making a bike for my riding style currently. I've gone to another company 
for my steel mountain bike which fits my riding more and checks the boxes more. 
If I started doing more touring or bike camping a Riv would be on the list. The 
riding I'm doing the more modern components and features like disc brakes, 
threadless steer tubes and headsets, and some other stuff are important.

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[RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[RJM]

I'm a disc brake lover for mountain biking, but not a mechanical disk brake 
lover. Every mechanical one I've had has performed subpar and given me 
setup issues...especially compared to hydraulic discs. 

It has been my experience that with a good set of hydraulic brakes (one 
that squeezes both pads onto the rotor and not the kind that have only one 
piston that squeeze one pad and then the rotor onto the other pad. I hope 
that makes sense) and a quality initial setup, brake rub isn't an issue 
unless you bend a rotor. At that point, the fix is using care to bend the 
rotor back without adjusting the caliper. 

On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 10:09:11 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

> I'm putting this in a new thread, because I have some questions. Note: I'm 
> not disagreeing, I'm asking because I want to know more. 
>
> Clayton said, in the Rivs On Block thread:
>
> *- More margin betw. rim and brake to adjust for rub. Disc brakes usually 
> have much tighter clearances and make it a much more fiddly affair to get 
> rid of rub (applies mostly to hydros)*
> *- Typically lighter weight*
> *[...]*
> *- Pads tend to last longer*
>
> #1: I agree that this is very true for mechanical discs, but for 
> hydraulics? I thought that pads for hydraulics allowed more gap than those 
> for mechanicals, at least once-sided-pull mechanicals. For me, this isn't 
> merely academic; it may influence my choice of mechanicals over hydraulics 
> one day.
>
> #2: Yes, calipers are lighter, but then disc-specific rims can be much 
> lighter than rim brake rims, at least in the wider sizes.
>
> #3: I've read that this is true; I've also read the opposite (recently, in 
> a review of some disc setup -- Bike Radar? Which one is true?
>
> I do know that my Kool Stop salmons seem to last years if not decades.
>
> -- 
> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 
> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
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> **
> **
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: So many Rivs on the chopping block

[RJM]

I sold all my Rivs...had three at one time. (Roadeo, Sam Hillborne, 
Atlantis) 

What happened to me was getting heavily involved in mountain biking and 
I moved away from commuting by bike. I don't even bike camp anymore, so the 
ability to tote a bunch of stuff on my bike just isn't a selling point for 
me anymore. It really is just a priority change. I could purchase a Riv 
again if they came out with a mountain bike specific frame that wasn't just 
a touring bike built burlier...and I would prefer disc brakes. I know Riv 
doesn't do them, but for what I ride and for how I ride, hydraulic disc 
brakes are far superior to cantis or even v-brakes. But, I could see 
getting a "mountain mixte" custom Rivendell made. There was one in a Riv 
Reader a few years back that I could see duplicating for some of the trails 
I ride. I currently have a full suspension bike (Santa Cruz Hightower)  and 
a rigid steel hardtail (Niner Sir9) set up single speed, both 29ers and 
both ride great for what I'm riding. Lots of smiles on those bikes.

My since sold Sam Hillborne with v-brakes could easily be a competent 
modern day gravel bike. I rode that bike all over on the gravel and cannot 
see much besting it. The Roadeo was a really great road bike; in fact I 
just had someone ask me about it the other day and said how awesome 
it was. Gorgeous bike that rode great. I'm just not much into riding on the 
road anymore...too many people out to kill you with their cars around my 
area which has scared me off the road. I'm not too proud to admit it. 

On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 5:51:16 AM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:

> Why so many great Rivs for sale on the list recently? What are folks 
> moving to this riding season and why? 
>

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[RBW] Re: "Modern" Components on a Riv?

[RJM]

Not sure on the specifics of the Sram 1x setups, but I ran my Roadeo with a 
full Ultegra 6800 11 speed group (minus the brakes) and my Sam with Ultegra 
6700 crank/derailers/chain but used barend silver shifters.  All of it 
worked well together. I don't see why a Sram 1x setup wouldn't work well on 
a Sam. I know a guy running a Kona Private Jake with a Sram 1x setup and it 
rides well, and that bike has like 40mm wide tires. Make sure you check to 
see if he Sram brifters will mesh correctly with the brakes you plan on 
running...that is one place you can find an issue. 

On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 9:10:47 AM UTC-5, Will Ashe wrote:
>
> Hey y'all, 
>
> Since I've decided to rebuild my Sam I've been looking for some 
> inspiration. I saw Roman's Sam in staff bikes with a Sram crankset, and am 
> considering trying a full Sram 1x setup. Do any of you have experience with 
> builds like this? I don't suspect that I'll run into any issues, but would 
> love some feedback.
>
> Thanks, 
>
> Will Ashe
>
> LA-->ATX
>

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[RBW] Re: Saddles destroying my jeans! Advice?

[RJM]

I agree with Johnny here...get a saddle that doesn't bleed dye. There just 
isn't a reason a saddle has to be made out of leather...plenty of good ones 
out there that can sit out in the rain and not bleed. 

My cross bike has a WTB saddle and it is comfortable and my road bike had 
the stock Trek saddle that the Emonda SL6 comes with...and that is also 
very comfortable. Never had one issue out of those saddles. 

On Tuesday, April 4, 2017 at 6:11:48 AM UTC-5, Johnny Alien wrote:

> While the covers will work it seems silly to have a saddle that you can't 
> use without a cover on it.  Saddles are a personal thing but my usual go to 
> when it isn't a Brooks is a Fizik Aliante on a road bike and a WTB saddle 
> for almost anything else.  They are well made, comfortable, cheap and 
> light.  The Rocket is the one I usually go to and they start as low as $40.
>
> On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 10:56:28 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> Hi all-
>>
>> Looking for some advice. I have a Brooks Cambium on my SimpleOne 
>> commuter. I love the saddle, but it's destroyed two pairs of nice jeans in 
>> very short order (and every leather Brooks I've had has bled dye pretty 
>> badly). I'd love to solve it with a dedicated pair of riding pants, but 
>> this is my main mode of transportation, so I need to be able to ride it in 
>> my everyday clothes.
>>
>> Anyone recommend a saddle that doesn't wear out the crotches of pants too 
>> easily and doesn't bleed dye? It needn't be super comfortable over long 
>> distances, as this is my city ride.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: N = ? or How do you decide how many bikes to own?

[RJM]

I'm not much of a cycling minimalist. My cycling has changed quite a bit 
over the years and I've been through a lot of bikes but I tend to buy and 
sell to keep the costs to a level where I won't get divorced. 

By a lot of bikes, I really mean I've been through a lot of bikes. I've 
settled on three for me. A cyclocross bike, a full suspension trail 
mountain bike, and a fully rigid single speed mountain bike (Niner 
Sir9). I've spent the last year demo'ing mountain bikes and settled on a 
really nice full suspension rig that rides perfect for me. It's a Santa 
Cruz Hightower and a deposit is down on one. Woohoo. I'm doing a ton of 
single track riding lately and really learning how to ride drops, jumps, 
berms, ect. So fun. The rigid single speed is great and so simple and such 
a different ride compared to a modern full suspension bike. I've thought 
about getting a custom Riv to do the job of the Niner...maybe in the 
future. 

The cyclocross bike could easily be something like a A. Homer Hilsen, Sam 
Hillborne, or the old Legolas. Those bikes are swell and so versatile. 
Right now I'm working with a Kona Jake the Snake as I've sold almost all my 
Rivs (I've owned a Sam Hillborne, Atlantis, Roadeo and liked them all). I'm 
no longer doing much road riding anymore, but mostly gravel and dirt 
trails. These three bikes would cover everything for me. If a Legolas 
popped up, or Riv started making them again, I would be quite tempted to 
purchase one. 


>

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[RBW] Re: FS - Various items from the bike room. handlebars, cranks, racks, ect.

[RJM]

> Okay, here is what has been spoken for so far. 
>

 Sugino xd2 crank, the albastache bars, the fly 6 light, albatross bars, 
and lugged stem, and the silver shifters, the brake levers, the seatpost. 
The rest is still for sale.  I have had several ask about the seatpost and 
I guess the first to say they will take it is the fairest. (sorry Daniel) 
If it falls through I will let y'all know.

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[RBW] Re: FS - Various items from the bike room. handlebars, cranks, racks, ect.

[RJM]

Hey Daniel. The post is 250mm long.

On Friday, March 31, 2017 at 5:49:14 PM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> What's the post length on the S83?

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[RBW] Re: FS - Various items from the bike room. handlebars, cranks, racks, ect.

[RJM]

Looks like the Sugino xd2 crank, the albastache bars, the fly 6 light, 
albatross bars, and lugged stem, and the silver shifters are all spoken 
for. The rest is still for sale. 

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Re: [RBW] FS - Various items from the bike room. handlebars, cranks, racks, ect.

[RJM]

Yes, they are yours. I will send you an email with my paypal address. 
Thanks. 

On Friday, March 31, 2017 at 1:38:09 PM UTC-5, Reed Kennedy wrote:
>
> Hey there,
>
> I'll take those Silver shifters! PayPal ok?
>
>
> Best,
> Reed
>
> On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 11:29 AM, RJM > 
> wrote:
>
>> Been cleaning out the bike room lately and came across some some stuff 
>> that I thought the group would be interested in. 
>>
>>
>> I can take payment by paypal or if you prefer check I can do that too. 
>> The prices listed include shipping to CONUS. If you have any questions or 
>> would like more pictures or if you just want to point out a glaring mistake 
>> I made, please don't hesitate to ask here or via email. Pictures are in 
>> this link to flickr. 
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/93186953@N00/albums/72157681501073595
>>
>> *TRP Brake levers*. New, never used and still have the box. Dark grey 
>> levers, black hoods. $45 shipped
>>
>> *Nitto Lugged Quill stem*. Used but in great shape. 26.0 clamp, 9 cm 
>> length. Super blingy. $100 shipped
>>
>> *Nitto Dirt Drop stem.* 26.0 clamp, 8cm length. $40 shipped
>>
>> *Sugino XD2 crank*. Triple 170 arm length with 48x34x24 rings. $60
>> *Chainrings for Sugino crank*. - not very used 46 tooth $15, used 28 
>> tooth $10, used 36 tooth $10, brand new 52 tooth $25, brand new 42 tooth 
>> $25. If you want the crank and all the rings I will be happy to make a deal 
>> to save on shipping a bunch of rings everywhere. 
>>
>> *Shimano Ultegra FC 6503* triple crank with bottom bracket. 175 crank 
>> arm length. 52 x 42 x 30. Nice condition but used. - $75 shipped
>>
>> *Nitto Albastache bars*. Very good condition. $55 shipped
>>
>> *Nitto Albatross bars*. CrMo version. Has some finish pitting??? from 
>> exposure but very solid still. $40
>>
>> *Mark's Bars, AKA Nitto M 178* - Great condition with some tape residue 
>> on it. $75 shipped
>>
>> *Silver Downtube shifters *- used but good condition. $20
>>
>> *Cycliq Fly6* rear tail light/Camera. Great working rear camera and 
>> blinky light. The camera is high quality and the light is incredibly bright 
>> with several flashing modes. Box and all attachments included. Here is a 
>> review of this light/camera 
>> https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/10/cycliq-fly6-review.html - $85 shipped
>>
>>
>> *Nitto S83 Seat post. 27.2* - used but not in bad shape at all. Some 
>> insertion marks on it. - $50 shipped
>>  
>> *Racks* - These came off a Novara Safari I had a few years back which I 
>> gave away but kept the racks, which are really good racks. I just don't 
>> have a use for them anymore.
>> The front rack is a Tubus Tara Lowride rack. Used with some finish marks. 
>> - $55 shipped
>>
>> The rear rack I think is also a Tubus, but I could be wrong here. I can't 
>> find any brand markings on it, so for now I'm just saying it's the OEM 
>> Novara Safari rear rack. It has listed a max weight of 25kgs. Super sturdy 
>> rack. - $50
>>
>> *Nitto M12 rack*. Used but in excellent condition with mounting 
>> hardware. $45
>>  
>> *Wheelset* -
>> White Industries T11 hubs in purple color laced to HED Belgium rims. The 
>> hubs I had on a previous wheelset that I used for three rides until a crash 
>> destroyed the Pacenti rims. Titanium freehub body and super cool purple 
>> color. So, knowing the hubs were great I had them built up with the HEDs, 
>> which are all black and really cool looking. The new build is unused and in 
>> the original box. 32 rear, 28 front spokes, 700c rims, 130 rear wheel 
>> spacing. $500 shipped (Kinda pricey to ship, but it is a great wheelset)
>>  
>>
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>
>

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[RBW] FS - Various items from the bike room. handlebars, cranks, racks, ect.

[RJM]

Been cleaning out the bike room lately and came across some some stuff that 
I thought the group would be interested in. 


I can take payment by paypal or if you prefer check I can do that too. The 
prices listed include shipping to CONUS. If you have any questions or would 
like more pictures or if you just want to point out a glaring mistake I 
made, please don't hesitate to ask here or via email. Pictures are in this 
link to flickr. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/93186953@N00/albums/72157681501073595

*TRP Brake levers*. New, never used and still have the box. Dark grey 
levers, black hoods. $45 shipped

*Nitto Lugged Quill stem*. Used but in great shape. 26.0 clamp, 9 cm 
length. Super blingy. $100 shipped

*Nitto Dirt Drop stem.* 26.0 clamp, 8cm length. $40 shipped

*Sugino XD2 crank*. Triple 170 arm length with 48x34x24 rings. $60
*Chainrings for Sugino crank*. - not very used 46 tooth $15, used 28 tooth 
$10, used 36 tooth $10, brand new 52 tooth $25, brand new 42 tooth $25. If 
you want the crank and all the rings I will be happy to make a deal to save 
on shipping a bunch of rings everywhere. 

*Shimano Ultegra FC 6503* triple crank with bottom bracket. 175 crank arm 
length. 52 x 42 x 30. Nice condition but used. - $75 shipped

*Nitto Albastache bars*. Very good condition. $55 shipped

*Nitto Albatross bars*. CrMo version. Has some finish pitting??? from 
exposure but very solid still. $40

*Mark's Bars, AKA Nitto M 178* - Great condition with some tape residue on 
it. $75 shipped

*Silver Downtube shifters *- used but good condition. $20

*Cycliq Fly6* rear tail light/Camera. Great working rear camera and blinky 
light. The camera is high quality and the light is incredibly bright with 
several flashing modes. Box and all attachments included. Here is a review 
of this light/camera 
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/10/cycliq-fly6-review.html - $85 shipped


*Nitto S83 Seat post. 27.2* - used but not in bad shape at all. Some 
insertion marks on it. - $50 shipped
 
*Racks* - These came off a Novara Safari I had a few years back which I 
gave away but kept the racks, which are really good racks. I just don't 
have a use for them anymore.
The front rack is a Tubus Tara Lowride rack. Used with some finish marks. - 
$55 shipped

The rear rack I think is also a Tubus, but I could be wrong here. I can't 
find any brand markings on it, so for now I'm just saying it's the OEM 
Novara Safari rear rack. It has listed a max weight of 25kgs. Super sturdy 
rack. - $50

*Nitto M12 rack*. Used but in excellent condition with mounting hardware. 
$45
 
*Wheelset* -
White Industries T11 hubs in purple color laced to HED Belgium rims. The 
hubs I had on a previous wheelset that I used for three rides until a crash 
destroyed the Pacenti rims. Titanium freehub body and super cool purple 
color. So, knowing the hubs were great I had them built up with the HEDs, 
which are all black and really cool looking. The new build is unused and in 
the original box. 32 rear, 28 front spokes, 700c rims, 130 rear wheel 
spacing. $500 shipped (Kinda pricey to ship, but it is a great wheelset)
 

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[RBW] Re: Jones and Hunq

[RJM]

I'm curious to find out if anybody has a ride comparison between the Jones 
and a Trek Stache or a Niner Ros 9+, which are bikes I have ridden. I find 
both those to be quite playful on the singletrack and just all around fun 
bikes. I'm curious how the long chainstays feel riding singletrack with 
some twisty switchbacks. 





 

>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Just ride!

[RJM]

MTB single track and some double. Not terribly technical, but steep climbs are 
the norm.  I've started doing a bunch of gravel riding too and have been shying 
away from riding in traffic. Too many incidents and a few deaths have me 
rethinking it.

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[RBW] Re: Just ride!

[RJM]

I spend a decent amount of time on the trainer throughout the year and 
actually like following workouts using it, which has helped me greatly now 
that I've been doing a bit of cyclocross racing. Which, IMHO, is the best 
type of racing and even great for those of us who aren't competitive and 
just want to ride our own rides. Huge fun...Uuuge fun...and not so 
serious-like.

When I ride outside on the road I generally am either with a group or on a 
charity ride and doing whatever everybody else is doing or I'm riding the 
trails at whatever intensity level I feel like, which is usually pretty 
slow and leisurely. I vastly prefer trail riding nowadays. The trainer 
makes it very easy to knock out effective workouts to up my fitness which 
makes trail riding way less ridiculously exhausting and much more 
pleasurable. I've never been much of a gym person, but I can bust out an 
hour or two on the trainer at home no problem if I didn't get a chance to 
ride outside for a while. Works for me. 

Spin classes are no joke and will get you fitter pretty quick. 




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Re: [RBW] Roadeo ???

[RJM]

I'm not seeing the Legolas as in production...but I could be missing something.

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[RBW] Re: Oh no, baskets catching on among the young!

[RJM]

To be fair, some seem to call everybody freds there.

When I lived in Chicago and rode my bike everywhere I used to use a front 
basket and a stretchy net thing and I would just toss my backpack in there. 
It worked great and was cheap, relatively light, and theft proof. No need 
for special bags or fancy racks, just zip ties and the stretchy net thingy. 

On Wednesday, October 5, 2016 at 10:37:03 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Been hanging out on Bike Forums this year, and they call them Freds there. 
>  I asked why, but it's the basket, and a rude association.  
> He likes his stickers, doesn't he?  
>

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[RBW] Re: Show off how well your riv would've held up compared to the crabon

[RJM]

I don't think I would have entered that race with my Rivendell. 


On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 4:46:39 PM UTC-5, Daniel D. wrote:

> https://youtu.be/ElGDtjbKzy4
>

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[RBW] Re: surly ogre vs riv hunq?

[RJM]

Well, the Krampus is a 29+ bike that is going to sit around 30lbs, so yeah, 
it will be heavy. The one I rode was fun though...I think the geometry of 
it and the grip of the really fat tires helps hide the weight. (same with 
the Ros 9+ which I find to be a nicer bike than the Krampus).

Sometimes weight has a way of not being that big of a deal, but you are 
right...when the terrain overwhelms the weight it really does make a 
difference. 

On Tuesday, October 4, 2016 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:

>   It sounds like a "tank" , literally !   Yeah, weight does not matter 
> until it kind of,* overwhelms* the matter !  
>
> On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 11:46:35 PM UTC-4, Justin August wrote:
>>
>> Owning a Krampus I can say that they are heavy. Like really heavy.  I 
>> would definitely test ride the Surly to see if it's what you want. The 
>> weight and lack of response to pedaling needs to be experienced to 
>> understand. 
>>
>> If anyone wants to buy a nicely equipped Krampus let me know. 
>>
>> -Justin
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: surly ogre vs riv hunq?

[RJM]

What size?

On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 10:46:35 PM UTC-5, Justin August wrote:
>
> Owning a Krampus I can say that they are heavy. Like really heavy.  I 
> would definitely test ride the Surly to see if it's what you want. The 
> weight and lack of response to pedaling needs to be experienced to 
> understand. 
>
> If anyone wants to buy a nicely equipped Krampus let me know. 
>
> -Justin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: surly ogre vs riv hunq?

[RJM]

Really think about how much trail riding you will be doing and if that 
trail riding will be sort of aggressive single track with roots, rocks, 
switchbacks, a little air time with steep descents and ascents. If you 
think you will be riding frequently like that, get the bike that has disc 
brake tabs and install a set of hydraulic brakes like Shimano (xt and slx 
are very good brakes). IMHO, they are a huge improvement in every way, even 
safety, over cantis, v-brakes, or even mechanical disc for that type of 
riding.

It's not an Ogre, but I had the pleasure of riding a Surly Krampus this 
past weekend. Man, that bike was a blast. 

On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 10:46:23 AM UTC-5, R Olson wrote:

> I'm trying to decide between a riv hunq or a surly ogre.  I want this bike 
> to be the last one I own and I want to be able to do everything with it - 
> ride trails/single track, around town, get groceries, etc.  Has anyone 
> owned or ridden either of these?  My impressions are as follows:  Ogre: 
> more versatile, stronger/stiffer frame, less expensive, probably doesn't 
> ride as good, certainly doesn't look as good. Hunq:  great looks, ride, 
> very expensive, probably more comfortable to ride.  I'd appreciate your 
> thoughts. Thanks!   
>

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[RBW] Helmets... what do you like?

[RJM]

I'm digging the new Bontrager Lithos MIPS helmet with the accessory port thing 
for attaching lights or camera. I just had to replace my Kali helmet due to a 
crash (bad one on the trail...broken rib an hurt shoulder). The lithos is more 
geared towards mountain biking and covers more of the rear of the skull than 
others. I guess it is more "enduro." It's the same style that my Kali was but 
it offers more ventilation and the mips. The light mount is going to come in 
handy for night riding.

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[RBW] Clipless or Clips?

[RJM]

I cannot stand clips and straps and find them hugely annoying...but that is 
just me. 

My stable goes like this...One mountain bike is using thin gripsters, the other 
mountain bike is using xt clipless. The carbon road bike is using Look Keo 
Classic pedals with Sidi shoes. The Touring bike is sporting thin gripsters. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Olympic Bike Racing, Cobbles, and tire width

[RJM]

Most of them are on 25-27mm tubulars now. 

Aero benefits at the speeds these athletes are racing at are real, as is 
weight. You don't wear a skinsuit and have slammed stems because they look cool.

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[RBW] 53cm Atlantis frame set for sale.

[RJM]

The frame is sold. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: silly question re: cyclometers

[RJM]

Whatever lowest level Garmin (Edge 20 or 25?)has will do everything you 
want it to and it will do it without having to add sensors or wiresplus 
you will get gps. They are super simple to use. 

I use the Garmin 1000 Explore and find it to be great except I've come 
across a bug when out mountain biking. When sweat hits the touchscreen it 
will think I'm trying to change that data field and go to a menu of 
choices. I'm always sweating while mountainbiking and I'm always moving 
around on the bike so sweat is flying exactly where the garmin sits, so it 
has been bumming me out. Garmin customer service can't solve the issue. 
I've been thinking about picking up an Edge 20 or 25 just so I don't need 
to take the 1000 with me and those have push buttons instead of 
touchscreens. Plus, they are smaller.

I dig data on the road bike, even have a power meter but on the mountain 
bike not so much. I do like to look at a gps map of where I went though, 
and garmin saves all that in one convenient place. 

On Tuesday, July 26, 2016 at 10:18:51 AM UTC-5, bluebirdonabicycle wrote:

> Maybe its my age but its a confusing world looking at the many different 
> cyclometers (or whatever they are called) 
> Im looking for something wireless, simple that has the basic (important) 
> features likeHow fast? Distance? Total miles?
> But well built. 
> Most I look at seem cluttered with endless features.
> Any opinions from those who have traveled this road?
>
> BBOB
>

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[RBW] 53cm Atlantis frame set for sale.

[RJM]

Trying to de-clutter the bike room sale.

Flick'r photo album.

https://flickr.com/photos/93186953@N00/sets/72157670659968646

I have a 53cm Riv Atlantis frame set for sale, priced at $1000 and that 
includes shipping. It's in pretty good shape with some marks near the dropouts 
from wheel installation. On the fork there is an area with scratches in the 
paint (I tried to get photos of it). I have some touch up paint to cover it up 
but just haven't got around to it. No real rust or any other issues with it. 
Solid bike, it's just a duplicate of another I have.

If you are interested and would like some additional photos, just give me a 
holler. PayPal payment is preferred but I can do it another way of you want. 
Thanks for looking.

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[RJM]

For trail I would go with a flat bar, maybe stick those little bar ends on. 
I did a 6 hour MTB race and I rode a flat bar and the only thing I wish I 
added was those ergo bar end things where you can just grip on the end of 
the bar. I grip there now just using the end of the bar but those barends 
would help. I'm not talking about the old school ones that curve forward of 
the bar, just the ones that are a little nub looking thing. Ergo grips help 
too, but I use some wide raceface grips, which work great. My hands and 
arms never really hurt much on that ridenow the legs, that's a whole 
'nudder story. 

On Tuesday, June 14, 2016 at 7:36:35 AM UTC-5, kielsun wrote:
>
> I hesitated posting this here, but it's definitely a Riv-inspired 
> conundrum. I'm building up a late 80s Rockhopper and having trouble finding 
> the right handlebar setup. It will primarily be a trail and off-road 
> camping bike with knobbies. I have my Sam for road riding and don't want 
> much overlap between the two.
>
> The frame is borderline too small for me. It's an 18" and I would probably 
> benefit from a 19-19.5", but it should work fine once it's dialed, and it's 
> also just a stop-gap until I can save up for a Surly Troll frameset or 
> something similar. 
>
> Riv Content: I want it to be comfortable (but still nimble)--bars at 
> saddle height!
>
> I've considered going with a standard Technomic and Albas, dirt drop with 
> straight-ish/mountain riser bars like the Soma Clarence, or even trying a 
> threadless conversion stem with drop-style bars. I have cockpit parts for 
> any setup: MTB levers and Deore thumb shifters and aero levers and Ultegra 
> bar-ends. 
>
> I've already tried a dirt drop stem with moustache bars. This created too 
> much reach because of the bar profile and the non-relaxed geometry of the 
> bike. Anything that I should consider that I'm missing?
>
> I welcome any and all advice based on previous builds or experience. I'm 
> pretty new at working on bikes, so you won't offend me with newbie advice. 
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Bob
>
>

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[RBW] Any benefits to the longer CS's?

[RJM]

Off road I feel they are a detriment especially when riding single track. 
Getting a manual or wheelie happening (a skill used to pop over logs, ext.) is 
not very easy with a long chain stay bike.

But extra cargo capacity and probably stability are pros, I suppose. They will 
probably help with a touring bike. 

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[RBW] Re: FS - A few Brooks saddles and Cookset.

[RJM]

Everything has been sold. Thanks everybody; hopefully I will get this all 
shipped out Monday.

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[RBW] Re: FS - A few Brooks saddles and Cookset.

[RJM]

The black Brooks special has been sold

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[RBW] Re: Drop bars on Roadeo demos. Which make/model?

[RJM]

I'd like to know too...I kinda dig them. Those aren't Mark's bars because 
that is what I used on my Roadeo and they have a little deeper drop. 

On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 7:42:04 PM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:
>
> Anyone know what make/model of drop bars are on a couple Roadeo demo 
> builds?
> Here: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-roadeo-wsf1.htm
> They appear to be Nitto, not Noodles or Mark's bar. 
> David
> Chicago

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[RBW] Re: FS - A few Brooks saddles and Cookset.

[RJM]

The Brooks Select has been sold. 

So, still have the Brooks Special in Honey and a Brooks Special in black. I 
have updated the link to include pictures of the black saddle too. 

Thanks.

On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 4:32:29 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:

> Cookset has been sold.

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[RBW] FS - A few Brooks saddles and Cookset.

[RJM]

Cookset has been sold.

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[RBW] FS - A few Brooks saddles and Cookset.

[RJM]

I have two Brooks saddles for sale and a never used Trangia Cookset. 

The Cookset has the box and doesn't have a mark on it. Shipped for $75.00.

Brooks saddle #1 is a Brooks B17 Select that has been ridden about two hundred 
miles. Very good shape and comes in the original box with all the original 
stuff but does have a mark on the side shown in the pictures.   -   $110.00 
shipped

Brooks #2 is a Brooks B17 Special honey colored. Good condition with about 700 
miles of use. It doe have a few marks on the side but nothing major.  -  $85.00 
shipped

I also have a Brooks B17 Select black in color but no pictures yet...will take 
soon. I got it used so don't know the mileage but it is in solid shape.  - 
$75.00 shipped

Here is a link for pics

https://flickr.com/photos/93186953@N00/sets/72157658753091239

I can take PayPal or check/money order for payment. If you need additional pics 
to assess condition just holler via email and I will get them to you ASAP. 
Great saddles and these have nice thick leather, but I found something I like a 
little more. I will add pics of the black saddle as soon as I get them. Thanks, 
Ryan.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

[RJM]

Maybe Grant needs to make some kids bikes then.

 But, it seems that Islaybikes are also making the bikes you seek along 
with a line of bikes more performance oriented for those seeking such. 
Choices are good and in today's bike marketplace, there are a ton of them. 
I just fail to see how offering both is that big of a deal. 



As to questioning why I'm on this list... I've owned 4 rivs and still have 
two; even bought and sold stuff to list members. I've even purchased 
a Gransfors Bruks hatchet and two copies of "Just Ride" and even gave one 
away so it isn't like I don't know what Rivendell is about. 

But...

I also started racing and appreciate nice race bikes and understand why 
people do it and actually enjoy doing it. Liking these two aspects of 
riding don't have to be mutually exclusive and I certainly see room for 
both. I also don't agree with Riv on carbon forks or carbon bikes, nor on 
lycra or disc brakes...but I don't have to agree with everything Rivendell 
stands for to enjoy the bikes nor the list. I don't have to choose just one 
"philosophy" when I can enjoy all of it. 




On Friday, May 27, 2016 at 1:56:27 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:

> From my first post in this thread:
>
>
>> *I understand there are arguments for the existence of these things--hey, 
>> if you have the money and you want the "best" why not? Hey, life is 
>> competition, give the kid an edge. Hey, why not emulate your "heroes. ...*
>
>  
>
>> *It goes without saying that this is strictly my point of view. *
>>
>
> But since you never heard of the company until today I am going to assume 
> you are also not familiar with its original approach to kid's bikes, that 
> may be why you don't understand why at least a couple of us who bought 
> bicycles from them recently might feel betrayed or disappointed by this 
> latest direction of "pro" bicycles for 4-year-olds. From Why Islabikes:
>
> *It’s easy to be tempted by the latest technology on adult bikes and the 
>> ideas that often unnecessarily trickle down to kids’ bikes. Isla focuses on 
>> the sort of advantages that make riding easier and more pleasurable*
>>
>> *The reputation of an Islabike helps maintain high resale value. A bike 
>> designed with an emphasis on making the whole ride experience easier and 
>> safer will never have the cheapest price tag, however, the ideal fit, 
>> durability, ease of maintenance, and desirability of an Islabike ensure 
>> retention of value. *
>>
>
> Sound at all like the ethos embodied by another bicycle company you've 
> heard of? (Note that the "retention of value" to this point does not yet 
> include the new pro line, which is still in the pre-order phase.) Sound at 
> all like they will need to change this little blurb with the advent of the 
> "Pro Series"?
>
>  As I also said earlier, if I had known this was Islabikes take on things, 
> I had several other choices in terms of companies that sell decent kids 
> bikes to choose from and might well have gone another way. So you see, it's 
> partly the context here, which should be clear enough. And by that I mean 
> both the scenario outlined above and the fact that this is a forum that, at 
> least loosely, is based on the idea of celebrating a philosophy of "just 
> ride," of practical bicycles not limited by the parameters of modern day 
> pro level machines. No doubt there are many places on the Internet to 
> celebrate carbon fiber racing bicycles designed for kids 4-12 years old.
>
> And by the way, this idea that they are "filling a market" and "giving 
> customers what they want" is also a bit suspect. One reason RBW is such a 
> niche company is that the majority of people shopping for bicycles are at 
> the mercy of the industry, which has a vested interest in pushing certain 
> types of bicycles. And if you don't get that, I am truly puzzled why you 
> are on this list. (Note that none of this means I think people should only 
> ride Rivendells, or that carbon sucks, or that people cannot have fun on 
> pro style racing bicycles. It's not about that per se.)
>
>
> On Friday, May 27, 2016 at 11:40:55 AM UTC-4, RJM wrote:
>>
>> There is a lot of negativity towards this company here which made me 
>> check the link so I can understand why, and after I still don't get it. 
>>
>> I've never heard of this company before but I understand why they are 
>> making this pro line...not a lot of companies cater to the young racer and 
>> offer equipment for that. They are filling a market. If you don't believe 
>> that 

Re: [RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

[RJM]

There is a lot of negativity towards this company here which made me check 
the link so I can understand why, and after I still don't get it. 

I've never heard of this company before but I understand why they are 
making this pro line...not a lot of companies cater to the young racer and 
offer equipment for that. They are filling a market. If you don't believe 
that kids that young are racing then you aren't attending many races. Just 
this past weekend I worked a local mountain bike race day and there was a 
kid class, and they were competitive and having fun at the same time riding 
a smaller portion of the same trail that the adults rode on. Very capable 
kids. 

On Friday, May 27, 2016 at 9:04:20 AM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:

> Wow. Can't quite wrap your mind around it? Let me try to help.
>
> You are on a list called Rivendelll Bicycle Works Owners Bunch. 
>
> Conveniently, serendipitously even, the owner and founder of RBW  wrote a 
> post a couple of days ago that expounds on some of the motivations behind 
> his business. Some of those reasons include not selling stuff he doesn't 
> think his customers need, or that he believes could be capable of harming 
> them.
>
> The OP, having gotten recommendations about another company, Islabikes, 
> that sounded like they might share some of this approach toward doing 
> business, was dismayed to see evidence recently appear that seems to 
> contradict this, yes, assumption. 
>
> In the world I live in, thankfully, there are still a few businesses that 
> exist for reasons in addition to making a profit, and will not, in fact, 
> sell the consumer whatever they want. Sadly, it does appear that Islabike, 
> until recently a contender, does not fall into this category. Hence the 
> thread discussion. Hope this helps dissipate some of the confusion.
>
> On Friday, May 27, 2016 at 8:12:38 AM UTC-4, Skenry wrote:
>>
>> Wow is right.   I have no idea what world some of you all live in.  
>> Islabike only has one philosophy, to make money.   They will sell the 
>> consumer whatever they want to buy.That's how this works. 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: wtb - size 53 Atlantis

[RJM]

Chris, I sent you an email. 

The Atlantis is a great bike and out of the three Rivs I've owned it's 
probably the most versatile and fun to ride.


On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 9:43:29 AM UTC-5, Chris Burton wrote:

> Anyone have a line on one? 
>
> thanks,
> Chris
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[RJM]

>
> I agree with you Marc, I wouldn't want to modify a Riv to accept a disc 
>> brake and don't really see a huge point to it. I'm sure there are ways to 
>> do it since we are talking about steel bikes, but at some point you just 
>> really need to be looking at a different manufacturer/type of bike. There 
>> are a lot of nice bikes out there that are made with discs already, so no 
>> reason to hack up a nice Riv. 
>>
>
Although, as I said before, a disc braked Rivendell Bombadil that can fit 
modern 27.5 or even 27.5+ tires would be the absolute bomb.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[RJM]

I've had disc brakes on 4 bikes now, two cable actuated and two hydraulic. 
Honestly, I think hydros are so much better and not that much more 
difficult to setup compared to cable pull. I'd honestly rather use hydros 
because they are easier to pull (1 finger braking), more powerful, and have 
consistent feel and I felt that the cable actuated brakes lacked that 
performance. TRP does have a brake that has all the hydros in the caliper, 
but I've never used them. Bleeding brakes isn't difficult at all, but I may 
be approaching this from a different place because in a past life I was an 
automotive mechanic where bleeding brakes is normal. I don't find it weird 
or difficult at all to setup a hydraulic braking system on a bike. 

I find cantis to be a regular pain in the butt to setup and adjust, and was 
always a little befuddled why people liked them over V-brakes, which I find 
much easier to set and forget. 


On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:19:47 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

> "Couldn't be easier" is, in my experience over 4 bikes with various cable 
> disk systems, not quite accurate. It's certainly not rocket science, and 
> *once 
> you find the right method* it is straightforward, but it took me a long 
> while to find that method.
>
> Sidepulls are easiest. V brakes, at least decent ones, are easy to setup, 
> as are, slightly less so, wide profile cantis. Low profile cantis are a 
> pain in the ass, IME. Centerpulls are much like wide profile cantis. 
> Gauging all this from my own experience
>
> BB7s are about as easy as brakes requiring cable yokes, IME, and easier 
> than low profiles, at least with drop bar levers.
>
> On Fri, May 13, 2016 at 10:02 AM, Mark Reimer  > wrote:
>
>> Servicing discs could not be easier. Hydraulic's are a bit more finicky, 
>> but they're no more difficult to dial in than my Paul canti's are. Changing 
>> the pads takes 60 seconds. Actually the more I think about it, the more I 
>> think discs are much easier to setup and service than rim brakes. You just 
>> have to do it once to catch on. 
>>
>> On Fri, May 13, 2016 at 10:56 AM, 'Stephen Kemp' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>>
>>> I am a satisfied rim braker. I've never seriously considered riding 
>>> discs but I can see the attraction in avoiding compromised braking in the 
>>> wet and annoying mud on rim grinding noises when off road.
>>>
>>> One big factor that Grant has missed is the wear effect of rim brakes. 
>>> Sooner or later the rim will need replacing. That means a wheel rebuild 
>>> which may well lead to getting a new hub at the same time. That's a whole 
>>> new wheel just because your brakes are worn - quite a waste if you have 
>>> decent, handbuilt wheels that otherwise would have lasted a long time. On a 
>>> disc system, you just replace the disc.
>>>
>>> The related thing is that wear on the rim is hard to detect. You either 
>>> play it safe or you take it to the limit - which you only reach when your 
>>> rim is so compromised it blows. Discs are far more transparent. As Mark 
>>> says above, on this basis Grant's preference for rim brakes goes against 
>>> the usual argument for steel over carbon.
>>>
>>> On the issue of servicing, I've never worked on disc brakes but surely 
>>> if you avoid hydraulics and stick with cable operated then servicing/repair 
>>> is easy.
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
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[RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[RJM]

I will also add and repeat that I don't really see much advantage to disc 
brakes on road bikes, especially ones using aluminum rims. 

On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 12:29:17 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>
> I should add that my other mountain bike is a fully rigid single 
> speed Niner Sir9, which is a steel 29'er with a carbon fork (yeah, yeah, I 
> know.) The bike is fun, but utilizes disc brakes. I do wish riv would 
> produce a steel frame bike with disk like the Bombadil disc model, because 
> I would be all over it. Rigid fork mountain bikes  are a blast. 
>
> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 12:26:19 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>>
>> Rim brakes are fine for road biking and fine for a touring bike where 
>> speeds aren't getting too fast. I can see the allure to disc brake equipped 
>> touring bikes though since the weight is higher and the possibility of over 
>> cooking a rim on a mountain descent is real. 
>>
>> However
>>
>> There is absolutely no way I'm going back to rim brakes on mountain bikes 
>> thoughand hydraulics are so much better than cable in that arena. Here 
>> is the thing, hydraulic disc brakes are super simple to work on and aren't 
>> a black box, no more so than cable actuated brakes. The feel of disc brakes 
>> when ripping down a trail is loads better than rim brakes, and that 
>> includes v-brakes which are strong, powerful brakes. The ease at which I 
>> can scrub speed on my Trek Fuel which uses Shimano XT hydraulic disc is so 
>> awesome and needed, because I really don't think I could be riding the way 
>> I do down the trail with a rim brake. 
>>
>> Two problems exist with rim braking on a mountain bike, IMHO...mud and 
>> grime getting all over the brake track which seems to happen on every ride, 
>> and the lever feel stays the same with disc, which doesn't with rim 
>> braking. I'm not describing that correctly though; what I mean is that rim 
>> braking doesn't seem consistent in the muddy world of mountain biking, 
>> compared to hydraulic disc. 
>>
>> I took my very nice 1996 26" wheeled specialized stumpjumper with canti's 
>> out on the trail not too long ago just to see how it rode and play around. 
>> The one thing I took from that ride is that rim brakes on mountain bikes 
>> suck compared to a disc brake setup. No contest.
>>
>> Setting up and servicing hydraulic disc brakes like Shimano's XTs is an 
>> easier process than setting up canti brakes, especially premier brakes like 
>> Pauls, which I find are a pain in the butt to work on. Seriously, they 
>> aren't difficult at all. 
>>
>> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:19:47 AM UTC-5, Will wrote:
>>
>>> Might be nice to push back to GP and encourage more of these posts. 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[RJM]

I should add that my other mountain bike is a fully rigid single 
speed Niner Sir9, which is a steel 29'er with a carbon fork (yeah, yeah, I 
know.) The bike is fun, but utilizes disc brakes. I do wish riv would 
produce a steel frame bike with disk like the Bombadil disc model, because 
I would be all over it. Rigid fork mountain bikes  are a blast. 

On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 12:26:19 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>
> Rim brakes are fine for road biking and fine for a touring bike where 
> speeds aren't getting too fast. I can see the allure to disc brake equipped 
> touring bikes though since the weight is higher and the possibility of over 
> cooking a rim on a mountain descent is real. 
>
> However
>
> There is absolutely no way I'm going back to rim brakes on mountain bikes 
> thoughand hydraulics are so much better than cable in that arena. Here 
> is the thing, hydraulic disc brakes are super simple to work on and aren't 
> a black box, no more so than cable actuated brakes. The feel of disc brakes 
> when ripping down a trail is loads better than rim brakes, and that 
> includes v-brakes which are strong, powerful brakes. The ease at which I 
> can scrub speed on my Trek Fuel which uses Shimano XT hydraulic disc is so 
> awesome and needed, because I really don't think I could be riding the way 
> I do down the trail with a rim brake. 
>
> Two problems exist with rim braking on a mountain bike, IMHO...mud and 
> grime getting all over the brake track which seems to happen on every ride, 
> and the lever feel stays the same with disc, which doesn't with rim 
> braking. I'm not describing that correctly though; what I mean is that rim 
> braking doesn't seem consistent in the muddy world of mountain biking, 
> compared to hydraulic disc. 
>
> I took my very nice 1996 26" wheeled specialized stumpjumper with canti's 
> out on the trail not too long ago just to see how it rode and play around. 
> The one thing I took from that ride is that rim brakes on mountain bikes 
> suck compared to a disc brake setup. No contest.
>
> Setting up and servicing hydraulic disc brakes like Shimano's XTs is an 
> easier process than setting up canti brakes, especially premier brakes like 
> Pauls, which I find are a pain in the butt to work on. Seriously, they 
> aren't difficult at all. 
>
> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:19:47 AM UTC-5, Will wrote:
>
>> Might be nice to push back to GP and encourage more of these posts. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[RJM]

Rim brakes are fine for road biking and fine for a touring bike where 
speeds aren't getting too fast. I can see the allure to disc brake equipped 
touring bikes though since the weight is higher and the possibility of over 
cooking a rim on a mountain descent is real. 

However

There is absolutely no way I'm going back to rim brakes on mountain bikes 
thoughand hydraulics are so much better than cable in that arena. Here 
is the thing, hydraulic disc brakes are super simple to work on and aren't 
a black box, no more so than cable actuated brakes. The feel of disc brakes 
when ripping down a trail is loads better than rim brakes, and that 
includes v-brakes which are strong, powerful brakes. The ease at which I 
can scrub speed on my Trek Fuel which uses Shimano XT hydraulic disc is so 
awesome and needed, because I really don't think I could be riding the way 
I do down the trail with a rim brake. 

Two problems exist with rim braking on a mountain bike, IMHO...mud and 
grime getting all over the brake track which seems to happen on every ride, 
and the lever feel stays the same with disc, which doesn't with rim 
braking. I'm not describing that correctly though; what I mean is that rim 
braking doesn't seem consistent in the muddy world of mountain biking, 
compared to hydraulic disc. 

I took my very nice 1996 26" wheeled specialized stumpjumper with canti's 
out on the trail not too long ago just to see how it rode and play around. 
The one thing I took from that ride is that rim brakes on mountain bikes 
suck compared to a disc brake setup. No contest.

Setting up and servicing hydraulic disc brakes like Shimano's XTs is an 
easier process than setting up canti brakes, especially premier brakes like 
Pauls, which I find are a pain in the butt to work on. Seriously, they 
aren't difficult at all. 

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:19:47 AM UTC-5, Will wrote:

> Might be nice to push back to GP and encourage more of these posts. 
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - various Riv parts and 650b wheelset.

[RJM]

Okay, 

Bosco bar setup, wheelset, and Bottom Bracket have been sold. 

Thanks, and I think I've emailed everybody who responded up till now. 

On Monday, March 14, 2016 at 11:34:14 AM UTC-5, RJM wrote:

> I have a few parts sitting around that I'm not using and would like to 
> sell. It's kind of a spring cleaning kind of thing as I collect money for 
> the up coming Legolas I'm going to order. 
>
> Nitto Bosco Bullmoose bar with Shimano MTB brake levers (canti pull 
> ratio) and Meisha's Cork Grips (shellacked) that are grooved and punched 
> for barend shifters. This setup has barely been used as I had it on my 
> wife's bike but she doesn't really ride much. I would use it but just don't 
> have a bike compatible with these bars right now. - $120.00 shipped for the 
> whole setup. 
>
> Phil Wood Bottom bracket with threaded retaining rings and tool 
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bbp.htm - installed and run for about a 
> hundred miles and then taken off for a different crankset. It has sit in a 
> drawer since then. $80 shipped.
>
> Tektro TRP RRL brake leversthese guys 
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bl6-grey.htm  - brand new in the box. 
> Bought them but never installed them. - $50.00 shipped.
>
> 650b wheelset. Phil "Rivy" hubs 36 hole laced to Velocity Dyad rims with a 
> Shimano freewheel that Riv used to sell. These are great wheels that I used 
> on my Sam Hillborne for a year but I no longer have a bike that can use the 
> size. A lot of life left in this wheelset. - $300 shipped.
>
>
>
>
> I will add to this list as I get pictures and dig stuff out of the bike 
> room. It's a mess in there and things are hidden in drawers and 
> closets...lol. I know I have a few Brooks B17s I need to sell, but just 
> need to locate them.  I will include a link to pictures of these items when 
> I get home from work too.
>
> These prices are all with shipping included. I can take personal check, 
> money order, or paypal for payment (can take credit card through paypal 
> too.) Any questions, please feel free to ask and I will get back to you 
> asap. Thanks.
>
> Ryan
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - various Riv parts and 650b wheelset.

[RJM]

On Monday, March 14, 2016 at 11:34:14 AM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>
> I have a few parts sitting around that I'm not using and would like to 
> sell. It's kind of a spring cleaning kind of thing as I collect money for 
> the up coming Legolas I'm going to order. 
>
> Nitto Bosco Bullmoose bar with Shimano MTB brake levers (canti pull 
> ratio) and Meisha's Cork Grips (shellacked) that are grooved and punched 
> for barend shifters. This setup has barely been used as I had it on my 
> wife's bike but she doesn't really ride much. I would use it but just don't 
> have a bike compatible with these bars right now. - $120.00 shipped for the 
> whole setup. 
>
> Phil Wood Bottom bracket with threaded retaining rings and tool 
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bbp.htm - installed and run for about a 
> hundred miles and then taken off for a different crankset. It has sit in a 
> drawer since then. $80 shipped.
>
> Tektro TRP RRL brake leversthese guys 
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bl6-grey.htm  - brand new in the box. 
> Bought them but never installed them. - $50.00 shipped.
>
> 650b wheelset. Phil "Rivy" hubs 36 hole laced to Velocity Dyad rims with a 
> Shimano freewheel that Riv used to sell. These are great wheels that I used 
> on my Sam Hillborne for a year but I no longer have a bike that can use the 
> size. A lot of life left in this wheelset. - $300 shipped.
>
>
>
>
> I will add to this list as I get pictures and dig stuff out of the bike 
> room. It's a mess in there and things are hidden in drawers and 
> closets...lol. I know I have a few Brooks B17s I need to sell, but just 
> need to locate them.  I will include a link to pictures of these items when 
> I get home from work too.
>
> These prices are all with shipping included. I can take personal check, 
> money order, or paypal for payment (can take credit card through paypal 
> too.) Any questions, please feel free to ask and I will get back to you 
> asap. Thanks.
>
> Ryan
>
>

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[RBW] FS - various Riv parts and 650b wheelset.

[RJM]

Wheelset has been sold.

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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day!

[RJM]

Awesome. 

Nice bike. 


On Monday, March 14, 2016 at 2:36:36 PM UTC-5, Hugh Smitham wrote:

> Well we have another convert and the Atlantis has found a new home and 
> local at that.
>
> I find the universe works when you let it and in this case a really great 
> person ended up with a wonderful ride.
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalpusher61/25696930871/in/dateposted-public/
>
> And the bonus is a new riding partner.
>
> Tail Winds,
>
> ~Hugh
>   Los Angeles, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - various Riv parts and 650b wheelset.

[RJM]

I believe the Bottom Bracket has been sold. 

On Monday, March 14, 2016 at 11:34:14 AM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>
> I have a few parts sitting around that I'm not using and would like to 
> sell. It's kind of a spring cleaning kind of thing as I collect money for 
> the up coming Legolas I'm going to order. 
>
> Nitto Bosco Bullmoose bar with Shimano MTB brake levers (canti pull 
> ratio) and Meisha's Cork Grips (shellacked) that are grooved and punched 
> for barend shifters. This setup has barely been used as I had it on my 
> wife's bike but she doesn't really ride much. I would use it but just don't 
> have a bike compatible with these bars right now. - $120.00 shipped for the 
> whole setup. 
>
> Phil Wood Bottom bracket with threaded retaining rings and tool 
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bbp.htm - installed and run for about a 
> hundred miles and then taken off for a different crankset. It has sit in a 
> drawer since then. $80 shipped.
>
> Tektro TRP RRL brake leversthese guys 
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bl6-grey.htm  - brand new in the box. 
> Bought them but never installed them. - $50.00 shipped.
>
> 650b wheelset. Phil "Rivy" hubs 36 hole laced to Velocity Dyad rims with a 
> Shimano freewheel that Riv used to sell. These are great wheels that I used 
> on my Sam Hillborne for a year but I no longer have a bike that can use the 
> size. A lot of life left in this wheelset. - $300 shipped.
>
>
>
>
> I will add to this list as I get pictures and dig stuff out of the bike 
> room. It's a mess in there and things are hidden in drawers and 
> closets...lol. I know I have a few Brooks B17s I need to sell, but just 
> need to locate them.  I will include a link to pictures of these items when 
> I get home from work too.
>
> These prices are all with shipping included. I can take personal check, 
> money order, or paypal for payment (can take credit card through paypal 
> too.) Any questions, please feel free to ask and I will get back to you 
> asap. Thanks.
>
> Ryan
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - various Riv parts and 650b wheelset.

[RJM]

The Phil BB is size 108 and the threaded inserts are for English threaded 
BBs like what are on Rivendells. 


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[RBW] FS - various Riv parts and 650b wheelset.

[RJM]

I have a few parts sitting around that I'm not using and would like to 
sell. It's kind of a spring cleaning kind of thing as I collect money for 
the up coming Legolas I'm going to order. 

Nitto Bosco Bullmoose bar with Shimano MTB brake levers (canti pull 
ratio) and Meisha's Cork Grips (shellacked) that are grooved and punched 
for barend shifters. This setup has barely been used as I had it on my 
wife's bike but she doesn't really ride much. I would use it but just don't 
have a bike compatible with these bars right now. - $120.00 shipped for the 
whole setup. 

Phil Wood Bottom bracket with threaded retaining rings and tool 
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bbp.htm - installed and run for about a 
hundred miles and then taken off for a different crankset. It has sit in a 
drawer since then. $80 shipped.

Tektro TRP RRL brake leversthese guys 
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bl6-grey.htm  - brand new in the box. 
Bought them but never installed them. - $50.00 shipped.

650b wheelset. Phil "Rivy" hubs 36 hole laced to Velocity Dyad rims with a 
Shimano freewheel that Riv used to sell. These are great wheels that I used 
on my Sam Hillborne for a year but I no longer have a bike that can use the 
size. A lot of life left in this wheelset. - $300 shipped.




I will add to this list as I get pictures and dig stuff out of the bike 
room. It's a mess in there and things are hidden in drawers and 
closets...lol. I know I have a few Brooks B17s I need to sell, but just 
need to locate them.  I will include a link to pictures of these items when 
I get home from work too.

These prices are all with shipping included. I can take personal check, 
money order, or paypal for payment (can take credit card through paypal 
too.) Any questions, please feel free to ask and I will get back to you 
asap. Thanks.

Ryan

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Re: [RBW] Re: Is there a practical alternative to a Roadeo for lightweight yet comfortable build?

[RJM]

That looks like a great frame with a bunch of modern features like the 
tapered headtube. I wonder how it rides and if it is too stiff for road 
riding. 

On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Interestingly, the one that catches my eye there says MUSA: 
> http://carverbikes.com/frames/ti-gravel-grinder/
> I'm not sure how they can sell Ti for that price!
>
> On Sat, Mar 12, 2016 at 7:35 PM, eflayer > 
> wrote:
>
>> Davis Carver of Carver Bikes will do you a custom titanium frame born in 
>> China for $1200.
>>
>> My favorite road bike of the 35 I've owned over the last 15 years.
>>
>> http://carverbikes.com/frames/custom-titanium/
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 12:45:38 PM UTC-8, Pierre wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi bunch,
>>>
>>> I found myself increasingly attracted to the the idea of a lightweight 
>>> (sub-20lbs) Roadeo build.
>>>
>>> But I already have a drop-bar Hilsen, so tiny part of me tells me I 
>>> ought to look at alternatives.
>>>
>>> What's out there? (in term of practical preferably-lugged 
>>> can-fit-at-least-30mm yet-lightweight comfy frames).
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Pierre
>>>
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Cheers,
> David
>
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] 53cm Roadeo for sale. Orange color

[RJM]

Yeah. Are you looking for the frameset or the entire bike?

On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 9:13:43 AM UTC-6, bo richardson wrote:
>
> Lynne says she wants it, so dibs
> can we work it out the next day or so?
>
> thanks, 
> bo
>

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[RBW] Re: Playing Hooky to enjoy the weather

[RJM]

I'm sure you will remember the day riding with your wife for a long time. 
Good decision. 

On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 10:54:43 AM UTC-6, Ryan Thompson wrote:
>
> The weather was so nice in DC that my wife and I decided to take the day 
> off and ride into the city.  
>
> Picture to prove it.  Our Cheviot and Betty Foy. 
>
> https://flic.kr/p/E7Cis7
>
> Ryan 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] 53cm Roadeo for sale. Orange color

[RJM]

I live in Paducah, Kentucky.

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[RBW] Re: 53cm Roadeo for sale. Orange color

[RJM]

https://flic.kr/s/aHskvVinvM

Here is a link to a Roadeo album I just made. These are quick cell phone 
pics so if you need better ones just ask. I tried to get a good shot of 
that paint chip in the top tube too. I also added the photo that Mark sent 
me of the frame right before Riv sent it to me just for fun. 

On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 3:12:08 PM UTC-6, RJM wrote:
>
> https://flic.kr/p/n1ngDa
>
> Here is the flick'r link to the one picture.
>

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[RBW] Re: 53cm Roadeo for sale. Orange color

[RJM]

I just thought that is where they belonglol. 

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[RBW] 53cm Roadeo for sale. Orange color

[RJM]

https://flic.kr/p/n1ngDa

Here is the flick'r link to the one picture.

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[RBW] 53cm Roadeo for sale. Orange color

[RJM]

Well, the wife said I can't get another bike without selling one and I want 
a Legolas bad, so to get the money and the permission for one I'm selling 
my lovely, beloved Roadeo. Here are the specs:

53cm Roadeo - Custom Orange color with cream headtube. (gorgeous, it really 
is. Made by Waterford)
Quill stem with a 9cm Nitto lugged stem

black Chris King headset

Mark's bars 44cm (I think. these were one step up from the narrowest bars 
Riv sold. I don't see the Mark's bars on their site anymore, but they are 
kind of a classic bar shape but made light with fantastic Nitto aluminum).

Full Shimano Ultegra 6800 drivetrain. 
cranks are 50/34 and 172.5
cassette is Ultegra 6800 11x28 which works well for me in the steepish 
rolling hills I encounter.
bottom bracket is 6800

brakes are Tektro R539. The normal brake Riv specs with Roadeo builds. 

Seatpost is Nitto S83. Saddles and pedals are so personal so I'll sell the 
full build without them.

Wheels are Rolf Vigor RS wheels. Surprisingly stiff for low spoke count 
wheels and they are lightweight.  


Now, I know that this is not the preferred build many here would like and I 
can use the parts on another bike, so *I can sell the frame by itself if 
you prefer that*. Frame, fork, Chris King headset for $1300.00 shipped to 
you. Full bike say $2600.00 shipped. That's better than half off on a new 
one.

The bike is in excellent shape...never crashed and I keep it in the living 
room, so it doesn't really ever get wet unless I'm riding on it. The frame 
is only two years old and the only real blemish I can see, with the 
exception of some paint chipping at the dropouts where the wheel goes in, 
is a paint chip on the top tube. I put that in there when I originally 
built the bike (slipped with a wrench. It turned out to be a good thing 
because after that first paint chip I find I don't freak out and baby a 
bike too much). It just chipped the paint a little and isn't through the 
primer and hasn't rusted or anything.

I'm currently at work and can't get pictures into Flick'r to save, but when 
I get home I will shoot some and put the link up here, and I will take a 
closeup of the paint chip. I have one picture that I will link to from my 
original build that I have. The bike is slightly different now with 25cm 
Continental 4000gp tires and the bar tape is cloth taped that is twined and 
shellacked a nice light brownish color.  

Any questions you can email me through here or just respond and I will 
check it asap. Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: BLUG Roadeo size?

[RJM]

Shimano 11 speed does shift like a dreamand I love and use friction 
shifting too, but thems the facts. 

That Roadeo is awesome looking; it's a very striking color and perfect for 
a fast bike like the Roadeo. After I sell my Roadeo I might have to get the 
Legolas in that color.

On Thursday, March 3, 2016 at 12:33:17 AM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:

> They both look 55ish to me, although Mark's original does seem to have a 
> slightly shorter headtube. I'm guessing that spec evolved a smidge over the 
> years. Mercy, that red Roadeo looks fabulous!
>
> PS. I love the influence of the young folks showing through on the BLUG. 
> Grant would never say 10/11-speed brifters "shift like a dream" ;)
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: How forged cranks are made

[RJM]

I don't know, but I do know that I suffered knee pain and went from a 172.5 
length crank on the Roadeo to a 165 and it went away. I feel no difference 
in efficiency or speed or anything, just happier riding. I'm 5'7" and on a 
53cm Roadeo.

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 7:56:10 PM UTC-6, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Is there a rule of thumb to guide crank length choice?
>
> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 10:14:21 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I swapped the 170s on the Fargo for 172.5s, and I don't think I notice 
>> any difference. But when I had 175s on an erstwhile Diamondback, with a 
>> fiddly 60" fixed gear (meant for off road) pedaling on flats was truly 
>> horrible. I switched to 170s things were far better. Same Pro 5 Vis crank 
>> model and same Phil bb. I later raised the gi to 64", which made the bike 
>> even better.
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 8:05 AM, Michael Hechmer  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Really, interesting post.  I'll need more time to study it but would 
>>> like to offer one observation, that has lead me to hesitate in buying a 
>>> pair of these (besides not parting with the  considerable amount of cash).  
>>> I agree that I can not tell the difference between cranks 3mm or shorter 
>>> and have always ridden 175 & 172.5 without distinction; but when I go to 
>>> 170 I am prone to some knee pain after about two hours of riding.  So, 
>>> would I know the difference in a 171; I don't know, but it still feels like 
>>> a big gap between 171 & 177.
>>>
>>> Wouldn't 171, 175, 179 be a bit more forgiving.  Of course the dye is 
>>> cast, so to speak.
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 9:38:27 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:

 A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where 
 Grant explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass 
 cranks and what is involved.


 https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/

 Enjoy!

 Jan Heine
 Compass Bicycles Ltd.
 www.compasscycle.com

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>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>> *
>> ***
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
>> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
>> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>
>> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
>> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>>
>> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>>
>> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: "Store Credit" on BLUG

[RJM]

I agree with you, Eric. I would love a Riv jersey if it is nicely made and 
I'm not looking for a long chainstay, upright bosco-like handlebar 
bike...but I do think I'm not like most Riv customers in that I like to 
ride hard much of the time; I like generally fast or faster than slow 
riding; I use a power meter to quantify "performance gains;" I'm a strava 
premium member; I am unable to commute to work, and use my bikes primarily 
for recreation and exercise. So, riv might be doing exactly what their 
normal customers want. Either way, I love the company and am seriously 
eyeing that Legolas.

On Wednesday, February 24, 2016 at 4:49:23 PM UTC-6, Eric wrote:
>
> Maybe something w/ the update about changing all the geometry for longer 
> chainstays also plays into this.
>
> I for one don't want longer stays, Riv's are already very generous but did 
> prompt me to investigate a possible purchase.
>
> And again, they really need to stop selling kitchy stuff like cheese 
> boards and sell some Rivendell branded sport wool jerseys. 
>
> Hell, maybe I'll just make some & sell 'em on eBay. They always fetch over 
> $100 and after a few times I can buy a new frame. Problem solved!
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: "Store Credit" on BLUG

[RJM]

I seem to remember Riv doing something similar in the past, but the amount 
was much smaller and it was opened to more numbers of people. I would 
imagine doing it this way lessens the amount of paperwork/checking 
up/mistakes that could be made. 

One thing is for sure, if someone is looking to pick up a fine custom, this 
would be the way to do it. 

On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 8:38:45 PM UTC-6, Reid wrote:

> Wow! A super sized Kick Starter campaign. Too bad my wife and I just 
> bought a Clementine and an AHH. Now we won't be needing new bikes for at 
> least the next 10 years. My usual great timing!
>
> Reid
>

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[RBW] Re: My first Roadeo, built and ridden!

[RJM]

Really great bike, Tim. The Roadeo is a great road bike capable of long 
distances of speedy and comfortable travel. 

I'm running a stock Ultegra setup on mine with a compact 50/34 crank and an 
11x28 cassette. It seems to work well for where I live, although thinking 
about it a 12x32 cassette might be a better choice. I just don't run that 
11 cog ever and would rather have a larger one on the other end. 

I don't have one, but allow me to spend your money in my imagination...I 
would think that Compass Bikes Rene Herse crank would be killer for a 
Roadeo. 

On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 3:10:54 PM UTC-6, Tim Gavin wrote:

> I finished the build of my grey/kidney Roadeo on Saturday, and shod her 
> with 700 x 38 Challenge Gravel Grinder tires (which measure ~36 mm on Mavic 
> Open Pro rims).  I took it for a short ride and took some pictures:  
> http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/Tim_Gavin/library/Rivendell%20Roadeo
>
>
> Yesterday (Sunday), I replaced these tires with 700 x 32 Panaracer Gravel 
> King (knobby) tires and took it for a shakedown ride of 34 miles (in ~34 
> degree weather).
>
> No pictures yet, but it rode great.  Fast, but still reasonably 
> comfortable.  For those that are interested, here's my Strava record 
> .
>  
>  
>
> I need to dial in the pressures on the Gravel Kings, but they rolled well 
> at ~70-75 psi.  The small knobs on the tread look aggressive but are nearly 
> silent on the road (just a light hum).  The GKs give me a little more 
> clearance than the GGs; which is nice because there were sticks all over 
> the trail, especially the further I got from town.
>
> The first thing I'm going to change is to lower the gearing.  I borrowed 
> all the parts (except brake calipers and tires) for this build from my 
> Giordana XL-Eco, which made this a reasonably-economical new bike.  The 
> Giordana was a 90s road racer; therefore, the 53/39 crank.  I don't think I 
> shifted higher than 53 x 16, even on the downhill/downwind portion.
>
> I'm interested in a subcompact 46/30 or 48/32 double crank.  If anyone on 
> the list has such an item for sale, please PM me.
>
> Cheers,
> Tim Gavin
> Cedar Rapids, IA
>

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[RBW] Re: Latest blug....yay for the Legolas.

[RJM]

I'm checking out the bikes in the blug picture and think it's great that 
the rear brake cable is routed on top of the top tube. For a cross bike, 
that is what I would want since shouldering the bike would happen quite a 
bit. 

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[RBW] Re: ROSCO mailing list

[RJM]

Yeah, I got that email. I think there might be quite a few who drop off and 
maybe decide to buy a regular production model or something different that 
will suit their goals better. I know I want something that may not come 
about, but I have hope and enjoy waiting to see what happens with this 
project. I've been tossing around the idea of a custom anyway, but you 
never know, this Rosco thing might pan out. 

 Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 12:10:14 PM UTC-6, masmojo wrote:

> Mailing list is up to 240 people and apparently this is alarming Grant a 
> little bit! :-)
> Like a lot of people (I'm sure), I have my hat in the ring, but the 
> chances of all bike elements aligning with what I would like or need and me 
> having the money handy are very small so I don't think I would get alarmed 
> Grant! ;-)

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[RBW] Re: Nice ride today, or: everyone needs a gofast road bike.

[RJM]

I love my go fast bike, which is my Roadeo. I did not ride it last night 
outside, but rather have it hooked up to a stationary trainer in the house, 
which I rode for an hour. Winter is my mountain bike time and I stuck a 
trainer tire on the Roadeo for a month or two until it warms a little. I 
don't really ride the Roadeo on dirt or gravel unless I hit a bad road 
while wandering around. I'm currently riding 25mm tires on it and I cannot 
complain about being held back on speed with this Riv. 

So, I currently have 4 ride-able bikes.

Roadeo - Go fast road bike
Atlantis - Touring bike
Trek Fuel EX 29'er - Full suspension trail bike
Niner Sir9 - Rigid Single speed XC bike

I need to get a bunch of parts and wheels sold off because I would kinda 
dig a Riv mountain bike, but that Sir9 is way cool, being steel. 

On Thursday, February 11, 2016 at 6:58:52 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:

> 20 miles -- no biggy; but I had no errand to run, so I took the gofast. 
> The Elk Pass tires are so nice; I can detour onto dirt, firm dirt and light 
> gravel, if I like -- despite their weight of 175 grams. Not that gofast 
> bikes need to have this capacity; but it is nice to have it when the tires 
> that allow it are the fastest pavement tires I've ridden (this is a seat of 
> pants/leg torque/cadence estimate). In fact, saying that gofasts have to be 
> dirt capable is like saying a racing car has to have a trunk.
>
> Anyway: sunny, breezy, temps over 60F -- very nice; a detour for a couple 
> of minor hills -- living in The Valley as I do, hills have to looked for.
>
> The point, if this divagation has a point: I'm glad I have a gofast! 
> Everyone ought to have one as one of the statutorily minimum 4 bikes in 
> their stable. Fully kitted commuting or errand bike; check. Dirt bike; 
> check. Beater; check. Gofast.
>
> I:
>
> '03 Riv: errands.
> '02: gofast.
> Race Lite and hopefully forthcoming Matthews: dirt.
> Dahon: beater.
>
> You?
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis vs. Sam

[RJM]

Both are easy to fender depending on your tire size. The Atlantis (in my 
size which uses 26" tires) can take a wider tire than the Hillborne. But 
also, in my particular size, the Hillborne was 650b and the Atlantis is 26" 
wheel size...I think the Hillborne was a faster bike, in general. I could 
descend a hill on the Hillborne full speed with absolutely no problem

I pretty much have the same setup on the Atlantis as on the Hillborne and I 
think they both ride well with caveats. The Atlantis handles a load better 
and going up hills it doesn't have the front wheel wobble my Sam sometimes 
showed. This was more pronounced with just a rear load on the Sam. The 
Atlantis rides better loaded down rather than bare, I feel, which is good 
because I generally ride that bike carrying a load. If unloaded, I think 
the Atlantis feels just a tad dead on the road and I didn't feel that on 
the Sam, which I rode unloaded quite a bit. 

I personally think the Atlantis is the better looking bike; I find the 
color, the cream headtube, the headbadge, and the lugs a bit better looking 
than the Sam. Not that the Sam was a bad looking bike, just that the 
Atlantis is a little fancier. 

I see room for both of these bikes, but the Atlantis set up with front and 
rear big racks and the Hillborne ready to ride quicker. That's just me 
though. 

On Tuesday, February 9, 2016 at 1:01:49 AM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:

> For those of you who own or have owned both:
>
> 1. Do they ride differently with the same type of setup, or do they feel 
> the same?
> 2. Both just as easily fender able?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: "My first Roadeo" and chainline/BB question

[RJM]

I rode Pari Motos on my Sam Hillborne and found them to be great. They 
didn't last as long as something like the Fatty Rumpkin, but man they felt 
great. All that air volume and a supple tire is just wonderful. 

One of the reasons I love the Roadeo is because I can use wider tires if I 
want to without sacrificing a ton of performance...a good tire makes the 
Roadeo ride really great. 32-35's on many of the gravel roads around me is 
plenty and the Roadeo can handle that width fine. I just happen to be using 
the Roadeo for one specific reason because I have another bike. If the 
Roadeo was going to be my only bike for road, less than great road, and 
gravel road, I'd probably move up to a 32 or 35mm wide tire. 

I'm a huge believer in the wider rim and I'm glad that a lot of road 
specific rims are going wider and wider. The Pacenti rims I have make a 
32mm tire really quite wide and still able to take a pounding on gravel 
roads. Plus, I think the wider rim helps with cornering at speed, where the 
larger volume tire doesn't deform and get all weird feeling.

I would like to hear impressions on those Gravel Kings when you get to 
using them. 


>

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[RBW] Re: "My first Roadeo" and chainline/BB question

[RJM]

Yeah, It will work but it just isn't ideal and 25's are easier to air up 
with a single CO2 cannister. It's worked for me on this bike so far...for 
the riding I'm doing on it. If I were doing more solo riding by myself with 
that bike I would have stuck with the Stampede Pass tires. As it is, I am 
riding an Atlantis (used to be on a Sam Hillborne, but sold it) most times 
when I ride solo. 

On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 7:17:39 AM UTC-6, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> That puts you in a rare club, abandoning Compass 32s for Continental 25s! 
> FWIW, with a total difference of 7mm, pretty much any 700C tube will get 
> you home no problem.
>
> On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 10:02:59 AM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>>
>> Last year I went from the 32mm  Compass Stampede to 25mm Continental 
>> Grand Prix 4000S on rims that are 22mm wide. It's a relatively fast tire 
>> that is still comfortable and allows me to ride the same size tube as my 
>> riding buddies. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: "My first Roadeo" and chainline/BB question

[RJM]

Last year I went from the 32mm  Compass Stampede to 25mm Continental Grand 
Prix 4000S on rims that are 22mm wide. It's a relatively fast tire that is 
still comfortable and allows me to ride the same size tube as my riding 
buddies. This past year I really rode the Roadeo as a kitted up club rider, 
so not the average Riv rider with that bike and sharing some of the same 
equipment has been helpful in the past. The bike holds it's own set up like 
this on fast club rides provided I haven't let my fitness go. 

This year I got a new set of wheels which are 24.5 mm wide (outside 
dimension) at the rim with a 20.3 beat seat width and I will be running 
tubeless just to try it out. I haven't decided on a tire but I'm thinking 
about the Schwalbe Pro One. 

On Wednesday, February 3, 2016 at 9:07:06 PM UTC-6, Don Compton wrote:

> What size are you using? As a current Roadeo owner who rides 95% on paved 
> roads, 700x28's are my favorite. I have been using Grand Bios Cerfs for 
> many years. I tried the new Compass 32's but they felt sluggish to me. I 
> guess tires are really a personal choice. For me the Grand Bois and Compass 
> tires are definitely a step above the Jack Browns.
> On another note, I hope that Tim will enjoy his Roadeo as much as I have. 
> I have had a ton of bikes over the years, and have sold most of them 
> because I just feel good riding my Roadeo, no matter the road surface or 
> terrain.
> Enjoy
>
> On Wednesday, February 3, 2016 at 6:02:46 PM UTC-8, RJM wrote:
>>
>> I found the Compass Stampede Pass to be a better tire than the Jack 
>> Brown. It felt noticeably quicker to me on the same wheelset and I might 
>> say more comfortable. I didn't go wider than that though...and really, for 
>> the way I ride the Roadeo the thinner tires proved optimal. It's purely a 
>> fast road bike for me.
>
>

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[RBW] "My first Roadeo" and chainline/BB question

[RJM]

I found the Compass Stampede Pass to be a better tire than the Jack Brown. It 
felt noticeably quicker to me on the same wheelset and I might say more 
comfortable. I didn't go wider than that though...and really, for the way I 
ride the Roadeo the thinner tires proved optimal. It's purely a fast road bike 
for me.

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[RBW] Re: "My first Roadeo" and chainline/BB question

[RJM]

That sounds like it will worknice Roadeo. 

>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ready to Ride

[RJM]

Thank you for buying that bikeif it was still there tonight I fear my 
credit card would have taken quite the hit. 

And I'm glad some 48cm Hunqapillar hasn't shown up too. 

On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 2:05:14 PM UTC-6, Chad wrote:

> I just snagged the 53 Rodeo!  This has been my dream bike for quite a 
> while.

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[RBW] Re: Ready to Ride

[RJM]

I already have a 53cm Roadeo and have often thought of getting another to 
have it set up with bar end shifters instead of 11 speed brifters, but 
man...I can't afford it. That bike will be a great bike for someone.

On Monday, January 25, 2016 at 4:56:42 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> There is a treasure trove of Ready to Ride Rivendells now on the site. 
>  That 59cm Roadeo is beckoning me.  
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/category-s/1072.htm
>
> 17 bikes in the Ready to Ride section.  Wowsa.  
>

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[RBW] 7-yr Hilsen Review

[RJM]

Nice review; thanks for it. That bike will still be going strong seven years 
from now!

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