Re: [RBW] Nine is fine! 1x9 drivetrains in 2024. Who else is doing it?

[Arthur Mayfield]

My Sam is 1x9 with a smallish chainring and a mtn RD, but my Soma Buena 
Vista is 2x9 with Ultegra drivetrain. I like having the extra range of the 
46 and 30 tooth chainrings on the Buena Vista, but I rarely shift while 
riding, since I’m usually either in flat areas or hilly. I could probably 
take the front derailleur off and move the chain by hand, but the FD is 
light, and the shifter is downtube mounted, so it’s a simple affair and 
easily maintained.

On Wednesday, July 24, 2024 at 8:53:20 AM UTC-4 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:

> My Pugsley is 1x9 and I agree it's totally sufficient.  The problem in my 
> stable is it's an outlier, so I can't share any parts with other bikes.  In 
> fact, I now have 9, 10, 11 and 12 speed bikes, meaning I have to carry 
> spare chain links for all of those speeds in the shared saddlebag :)
>
> Will near Boston 
>
> On Wednesday, July 24, 2024 at 4:26:57 AM UTC-4 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> I built a bike up a while ago using Campagnolo Ekar 1x13, but I sold it 
>> after riding it for a few months because I didn't like the way the gearing 
>> was setup on the cassette. The five smallest cogs were all a single tooth 
>> jump from each other, and then the gaps between gears got much larger 
>> towards the bottom of the gear range 
>> (10-11-12-13-14-15-17-20-23-27-32-38-44). I would have much preferred 
>> closer ratios in the middle of the gear range where I spent most time.
>>
>> I've gone back to using 11-speed 2x systems, which suit my style of 
>> riding better.
>>
>> Nick Payne
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

[Arthur Mayfield]

If my FJ had a derailleur hanger, I’d be constantly tempted to turn it into 
a 1X or 2X 5 or 6. 120mm rear spacing and the difficulties of mounting a 
derailleur under track forks keeps me in line. As I recall, the Roaduno has 
wider rear end to go with the hanger-equipped dropouts, so there are a 
zillion hubs that will fit. I ride it as a single, rather than fixed, and 
am content. The one change I’d make to a re-imagined FJ would be to add a 
kickstand mount. I’ve never been comfortable with clamp-on kickstands, 
always afraid they’d slip or I’d over tighten and damage the chain stays.

On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 9:24:09 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Well damn it. Looked this up & now I really want a silver Roaduno. Look 
> like the same dropouts but with the hanger?
> [image: image0.jpeg]
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 3, 2024, at 9:04 AM, Arthur Mayfield  wrote:
>
> Not what else is out there, but what should be—Rivendell should bring 
> back the Frank Jones. 700c, sidepull brakes, 120mm rear hub, fully lugged, 
> fits up to 42mm tires (I have 32s with PDW fenders). I have three Rivs (FJ, 
> Platy, caliper Sam), but my FJ is what I think of when I want to ride 
> simply, or simply want to ride. Without a doubt, an *elegant* bicycle.
>
>
> On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 5:15:38 AM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> The Surly Steamroller can take a 38mm tire, but no fender.
>>
>> The sadly out of production Cross Check could do a 38mm with a fender.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:16 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>>
>>> I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, 
>>> the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.
>>>
>>> I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 
>>> 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. 
>>> Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar 
>>> and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.
>>>
>>> What is the competition, and what are they offering?
>>> Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. 
>>>
>>> BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm 
>>> rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.
>>>
>>> What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

[Arthur Mayfield]

Not what else is out there, but what should be—Rivendell should bring back 
the Frank Jones. 700c, sidepull brakes, 120mm rear hub, fully lugged, fits 
up to 42mm tires (I have 32s with PDW fenders). I have three Rivs (FJ, 
Platy, caliper Sam), but my FJ is what I think of when I want to ride 
simply, or simply want to ride. Without a doubt, an *elegant* bicycle.

On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 5:15:38 AM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:

> The Surly Steamroller can take a 38mm tire, but no fender.
>
> The sadly out of production Cross Check could do a 38mm with a fender.
>
> Eric
>
> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:16 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>
>> I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, 
>> the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.
>>
>> I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 
>> 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. 
>> Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar 
>> and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.
>>
>> What is the competition, and what are they offering?
>> Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. 
>>
>> BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm 
>> rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.
>>
>> What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?
>>
>> Edwin
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] 2.25 Thunder Burt on a Platypus?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I’m currently building up my Platy 55 frame, so I don’t have a lot to go on 
other than measuring clearances, but it looks like 50mm with any tread 
might be about the limit. *Maybe* 55mm with smooth tread. I’m fitting mine 
with 38mm and fenders for mostly paved roads. 

On Monday, November 20, 2023 at 12:22:48 AM UTC-5 bei...@gmail.com wrote:

> *1) *Perhaps needs its own thread, but are Cliffhangers the way to go for 
> a Platy if you’re riding with more weight? I have Atlas now and at least 
> need a new rim, but want to run 55mm tires and something durable for my 
> 200lbs self plus some grocery’s and for sometimes riding it “where you 
> shouldn’t” as grant states. Cliffhangers vs Dyads or something else?
>
> *1 A)* Anyone have experience with the RH Antelope Pass 55 slicks? Would 
> it be a mistake to make the investment in the ultralights in Black like the 
> crust build below just for the aesthetic, when this will be an around town, 
> grocery and baby hauler bike?
>
> Considering those, Fleecer Ridge, or G One All Rounds to replace the 
> current 50mm Maxxis Ramblers…
> *[image: IMG_5571.jpeg]*
>
>
> *2)*
> *Justin*, curious to know if you pulled the trigger on the Thunder 
> Burt’s? If so, how’s it work and what’s it look like, and if not, what’d 
> you go with?
>
> *Lonnie, *are the 2.25 G Ones working well still? Send a pic?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Christian in Boulder, CO
>
> On Thursday, October 19, 2023 at 3:22:07 PM UTC-6 Lonnie wrote:
>
>> I have Schwalbe G-one all around tires (29x2.25) on Cliffhangers on my 
>> Platypus and they've been great.  Fairly fast rolling, but plenty of 
>> traction for some loose trails.  The tires fit the frame fine, though I 
>> have to deflate them about to get them around the V-brakes.  The unexpected 
>> issue I ran into involved the chain being too close to the tire.  Drive 
>> train is old sugino touring triple and 9-sp cassette.  When in the granny 
>> ring and biggest two cassette cogs and when riding rougher trails, the 
>> chain would hit the tire and get sucked in between the tire and the 
>> chainstay.  This never happened on smoother roads.
>>
>> I eventually bought the widest (and offset) Shimano bottom bracket that 
>> Riv sells.  That seems to have fixed the problem, even on the rough 
>> trails.  
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 6:58:34 AM UTC-5 DavidP wrote:
>>
>>> I have a bike with a 29x2.25 Thunder Burt on an i29mm rim, on which the 
>>> casing measures wider than the knobs and is 56mm / 2.2" @ ~20psi. Variances 
>>> in individual tires aside that should be a good max as the Cliffhangers are 
>>> i25mm. I'm pretty sure this would work on my Platypus (60cm) if I didn't 
>>> have fenders installed which limit me to a 50mm tire.
>>>
>>> -Dave
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 5:54:37 PM UTC-4 penne...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Justin,
 FWIW, the April 28 email newsletter featured a 60cm web special platy 
 with 2.3" Teravail Ehlines. Will said: "It clears easily, although I 
 wouldn't go any bigger. I suspect these tires are measured knob to knob, 
 because calipers showed them as closer to 2.1 than 2.3. Still good!"
 Mack 

 On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 3:29:05 PM UTC-6 fra...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I would say it isn’t likely. I have the Soma Cazadero 700x50mm on my 
> wife’s 55 with Cliffhanger rims and there is no room to spare. 
> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 7:10:49 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> No specific experience mounting that combo but I can tell you that 
>> 2.25" tires on Cliffhanger rims, for me, measured 60mm. If you've got 
>> calipers, you could check the spacing between tubes and get an idea from 
>> that.
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 10:04 AM Justin Kennedy  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I know it's beyond the official max tire size but wondering if 
>>> anyone has experience with big ol' tires on your Platy. Specifically, a 
>>> 29'er 2.25 Thunder Burt (mounted on a Cliffhanger) on a 60cm Platypus. 
>>> Thanks!  
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender Installation and Usage Experiences

[Arthur Mayfield]

I’ve used Honjo, Planet Bike, SKS, and both the aluminum and plastic 
versions of Portland Design Works fenders. By far and away, the PDW fenders 
are easiest to install, have the best strut safety disconnects, are the 
quietest, and look at least as good, if not better, than the rest, assuming 
you don’t want bare aluminum or mirror polished stainless steel. PDW 
aluminum fenders come in polished silver (which I haven’t seen in person) 
or a deeply anodized matte black. They used to also come in satin dark 
gray, but those may not be available anymore. PDW plastic fenders are as 
quiet as the aluminum, are even easier to install due to being a bit more 
flexible, are slightly lighter, are half the price (same hardware), and 
come in a tasteful satin black. 

On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 2:14:39 PM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

> I’ll throw out another rec for VO fenders. Mounted the 65 fluted on my 
> appaloosa with 50mm gravel kings, which seems to be maxxed out in my 
> opinion. The install was difficult because i didnt have a nice space to do 
> it in, but after the fact i think it wasn’t that much harder than plastic. 
> I got my fenders on sale recently, itd be worth checking the price on them 
> because i think theyre a bit cheaper than honjos. 
>
> On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 2:08:09 PM UTC-4 Ed Carolipio wrote:
>
>> Installation of the aluminum fenders is more challenging but achievable 
>> if you have some patience and have all the hardware needed for a proper 
>> install on your bike.
>>
>> The Honjos are superior: just a quality product, sturdy and solid, and 
>> beautiful on the bike. I opted not to use fender tabs and bolted the 
>> fenders into the fork crown (front - some would use a daruma but my fork 
>> has an dedicated interior fender mount) and the seat stay bridge (rear) 
>> with the extra fender reinforcements on the inside. That makes for a solid 
>> primary mount. I used leather washers where the fender touched a bolt or 
>> nut.
>>
>> Here's the blog post on RH fenders. I think the differences are they spec 
>> a longer fender and have different fender bolts. They offer hollow stays 
>> for extra money.
>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/we-love-fenders/
>>
>> --Ed C.
>> On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 7:27:48 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello fellow RBW owners!
>>>
>>> Now that I've happily found narrower tires for my Appaloosa, I'm looking 
>>> at fenders. I have three other bikes with fenders, two of them have the 
>>> plastic SKS fenders that Riv sells (the older models) and one has a set of 
>>> Planet Bike, aluminum fenders. Personally, I'm a big fan of the aluminum 
>>> fenders over the plastic ones, they just feel more solid. The Planet Bike 
>>> fenders, however, leave a little to be desired. They use the same flimsy 
>>> struts found on the plastic versions which, combined with their heavier 
>>> weight, cause them to wiggle quite a bit more than the plastic fenders.
>>>
>>> This time around I went looking at some of the fenders made by Honjo, 
>>> both the SimWorks branded and the Rene Herse branded models. It looks like 
>>> these require more work to mount but may result in a more sturdy fixture to 
>>> the bike. I'm not terribly worried about my ability to mount them as I've 
>>> got a well equipped shop and have done metalwork before. I'm curious to 
>>> learn what folks on the list think of them, though. How easy or difficult 
>>> did you find them to install? Were you happy with how you installed them? 
>>> How has your experience been riding with them after some time? Also, RH 
>>> claims their Honjo fenders are designed differently than the standard Honjo 
>>> fenders, is there any merit to their claims? Do they actually do a better 
>>> job of channeling water than the non-RH versions? Worth the extra $30?
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Ceramic coating the paint

[Arthur Mayfield]

I use C Quartz, a product intended for cars (there are quite a few quartz 
coating products on the market). It won’t protect the bike’s paint from 
contact chipping (only paint protection film, like XPel, will do that), but 
it’s far longer-lasting and UV protective than waxes. I’ve used it on my 
car and the wheels for years, and it sheds water and dirt, and shines far 
longer than any wax or older polymer products like Glass-coat. I’m on year 
five since I coated my car, and it still shines like a mirror when it’s 
clean. My bikes spend their down time indoors, so I’d expect their paint to 
look good for at least that long before needing re-treating, by which time 
some new product will probably hit the market.

On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 10:25:20 AM UTC-4 Marc Irwin wrote:

> I've used KBS Coating Diamond Finish with some success.  It has worked 
> well over the paint on my Sam,  but not so well on the raw steel of my 
> Hunq.  Here's the experience with the Hunq :
> https://simplecycle-marc.blogspot.com/2021/09/mammoth-cosmetics.html
>
> Marc
>
> On Wednesday, October 25, 2023 at 11:45:19 PM UTC-4 John S wrote:
>
>> In the recent 'Who's getting a Platypus tomorrow?' thread, one list 
>> member mentioned "ceramic coating the paint before building [the bike] up."
>>
>> I'm very interested to hear more about ceramic coating from the group's 
>> collective experience and wisdom. My one major frustration with my 
>> Rivendells has been the fragility of the paint (my AHH is acquiring 
>> "beausage" at an alarming rate compared with my other bikes); I'd love if 
>> there were a way to reduce chipping and maintain the beauty of the original 
>> paint for longer.
>>
>> Many thanks in advance for sharing your insights and experiences.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who’s getting a Platypus tomorrow?

[Arthur Mayfield]

My Mermaid Platypus 55 frame arrived today (apparently found in their stock 
from last year). This is an *elegant* bike-to-be! All you who ordered 
frames or bikes have a real treat coming! I’m waiting for wheels to be 
built, so plenty of time for frame-saving the tubes and ceramic coating the 
paint before building it up. I already had a B-68 and crankset, 
derailleurs, cassettes, brakes, stem, bars, racks, fenders, etc, so it will 
go together quickly when the wheels get here. I have a blue Sam 52 (caliper 
brakes, 650B) in *really* nice condition that will likely go on the market 
when I get the Platypus put together, btw. I’m in NC.

On Saturday, October 21, 2023 at 7:51:25 PM UTC-4 RBW Owners Bunch wrote:

> Peter, great info re: the Mardi Gras colors! I'm thinking of gold + green, 
> harlequin-style, for the purple bike. 
>
> (I'm also remembering the smell of sweet olive blossoms and the taste of a 
> real beignet and the sound of Preservation Hall...my mom was born there and 
> I love to visit!)
>
> S.
>
> On Sat, Oct 21, 2023 at 12:00 PM Peter Adler  wrote:
>
>> Green + purple + yellow = Mardi Gras bike. Go to New Orleans during the 
>> season, and all the plastic beads thrown from the parade floats are in 
>> those three colors. Maybe yellow bar tape or water bottles.
>>
>> Peter "laisse les bons temps rouler sur vélo" Adler
>> Berkeley, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, October 19, 2023 at 7:04:20 AM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:
>>
>>
>> I’m hoping to snag a 50cm green complete for my wife. I’ve had several 
>> Rivs and she’s never had the experience. She’s mentioned several times that 
>> a step-through style bike interests her. She has some purple Paul bits on 
>> her current bike that I think will look nice with the green instead of two 
>> different purples. 
>>
>> -- 
>>
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>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Who’s getting a Platypus tomorrow?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I had a stock notice early last week on a 55 that I snapped up in 
seconds—on the way, delivery next Tuesday. It’s in Mermaid paint (which 
looks a lot like Bianchi Celeste on my screen), so I guess they found it 
among old stock. I’m thrilled to be able to get a frame in my size, either 
way. I’ll be able to use up some of my trove of NOS parts to build it up. I 
wish good luck to everyone hoping to get one today.

On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 10:42:07 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> I'm certainly not in a position to by one but feel compelled to say that 
> while I have not been a fan of any of the purple frames Riv has been doing 
> (and frustrated that they are so hung up on it) the Platy looks so 
> fantastic in that color. 
>
> On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 9:47:08 PM UTC-4 SallyG wrote:
>
>> Will try for a 50 cm complete green for husband's Xmas present! Going to 
>> be tricky at work but I have supportive so-workers who know it's Platypus 
>> Day tomorrow:)
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 6:40:42 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>> Ding! wrote:
>>
>>> The preorder email was sent out today! Did you read it? Lots of 
>>> completes for sale but only 24 frames.
>>>
>>> Set to arrive end of November. Sad you’ll have to wait so long. 
>>>
>>> Who is getting one?
>>>
>>> What color?
>>>
>>> What plans for the bike?
>>>
>>> I just had a gorgeous 27 miles on my mermaid Platy today. Sublimely 
>>> comfortable. Plenty fast. 
>>>
>>> Leah
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Craigslist, etc 2023

[arthur]

I'm not sure my 64cm Clem L was ever on this. Here it 
is: 
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bop/d/tacoma-rivendell-clem-frame-fork-64cm/7660366383.html

Happy to sell for 750. plus shipping to the list. 

thanks!

Art
Tacoma


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[RBW] Re: (lower price) FS Clem L 64 f/f/hs or semi-complete

[arthur]

How about 750 plus bike flights shipping for the f/f/hs? 

Art
Tacoma

On Tuesday, August 29, 2023 at 5:02:06 PM UTC-7 arthur wrote:

> Selling 64cm Clem L which I got last year from a list member. Great shape, 
> no dings, some light scratches and a few small ships in the paint. I love 
> the bike, but have another, semi-custom bike which I'm using more for this 
> purpose. I've used it only around town, and it's really great for that 
> purpose.
>
> I'm also willing to sell as a semi-complete build, if you prefer. I will 
> keep the fenders/saddle, and the rear rack, and possibly the wheels, but 
> will sell everything else, including the tires.
>
> Photos on craigslist here in SeaTac: 
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bop/d/tacoma-rivendell-clem-frame-fork-64cm/7660366383.html
>
> 850 plus shipping for frame/fork/hs
>
> Something like 1250 for the build, with other wheels swapped in, minus 
> saddle/rear rack/fenders? It's Microshift 9 speed, shifted friction with 
> old Suntour barcon, works well.
>
> thanks for looking!
>
> Art
> Tacoma
>

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[RBW] FS Clem L 64 f/f/hs or semi-complete

[arthur]

Selling 64cm Clem L which I got last year from a list member. Great shape, 
no dings, some light scratches and a few small ships in the paint. I love 
the bike, but have another, semi-custom bike which I'm using more for this 
purpose. I've used it only around town, and it's really great for that 
purpose.

I'm also willing to sell as a semi-complete build, if you prefer. I will 
keep the fenders/saddle, and the rear rack, and possibly the wheels, but 
will sell everything else, including the tires.

Photos on craigslist here in SeaTac: 
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bop/d/tacoma-rivendell-clem-frame-fork-64cm/7660366383.html

850 plus shipping for frame/fork/hs

Something like 1250 for the build, with other wheels swapped in, minus 
saddle/rear rack/fenders? It's Microshift 9 speed, shifted friction with 
old Suntour barcon, works well.

thanks for looking!

Art
Tacoma

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Re: [RBW] Re: Alternatives to Snoqualmie Pass?

[arthur]

Somebody mentioned them earlier, I think Patrick -- the Soma Supple Vitesse 
EXs are awesome tires. I've ridden the 48s which Patrick has, I still ride 
the 700x x 38 and 42mmI'm pretty sensitive to suppleness and speed in 
tires, the Supple Vitesse's are *very nearly* the equal of the RH Barlow 
Passesby 'very nearly' I mean nearly indistinguishable. And they're $35 
a piece from Soma! I highly recommend them.

The Challenge Strada Biancas in similar sizes are also really, really nice 
(not the handmade ones): great, very, very supple tires. And you can often 
find them discounted for around 50 dollars.

Art


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Re: [RBW] 3-speeding Quickbeams and SimpleOnes

[Arthur Mayfield]

They are sold out of wheels, but just having had them tells me that the hub 
is geared for 650b/700c, rather than some utility or folding bike, or a 
trike. They had the hubs, so I ordered one and will build a wheel. I would 
have jumped at a finished wheel for only $40 more, though. Worth it to try 
out, even if I ended up rebuilding it.

On Thursday, June 22, 2023 at 10:05:13 AM UTC-4 Arthur Mayfield wrote:

> Yes Eric, it looks like it may just work. Thanks!
>
> On Wednesday, June 21, 2023 at 1:47:59 PM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> Does this work?
>>
>>
>> https://handsomecycles.com/products/700c-silver-rear-wheel-sturmey-archer-s-rf3-3-speed-internal-handbuilt
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 21, 2023, Arthur Mayfield  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I’ve seen the charts/catalogs listing 116-120mm OLD Sturmey Archer IGHs, 
>>> but haven’t found one IRL. Soma Fab Shop listed hubs and complete IGH 
>>> (IGGY) wheels, but they’ve been OOS forever, and by email earlier this 
>>> year, they told me that was likely to remain the case for the future. 
>>> Meanwhile, I keep looking and hoping. If anyone finds a hub and isn’t 
>>> snagging it for themselves, I’d appreciate a tip
>>> On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 3:12:47 PM UTC-4 J L wrote:
>>>
>>>> Strumy Archer makes a 120 OLD version of their X-RF8 8 speed internal 
>>>> hub. It is a modern style hub with a rotary switch rather than the chain 
>>>> actuated gear shift.
>>>>
>>>> On Jun 20, 2023, at 9:50 AM, Arthur Mayfield  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I don’t know what the rear spacing is on the Quickbeams and Simple 
>>>> One, but my Frank Jones Sr has 120mm track dropouts. Finding a modern 
>>>> manufacture IGH with 120mm OLD has been a lost cause for me (and I build 
>>>> my 
>>>> own wheels). I’m sure if I pored over the possibles long and diligently 
>>>> enough, I’d run across one or a vintage AW, but it simply becomes easier 
>>>> to 
>>>> hop on another bike when I need the gears. I’d like to build a 3 spd wheel 
>>>> for my FJ, though. 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> One clear advantage of IGH over other multi-gear options on single 
>>>> speed bikes that I haven’t seen mentioned is the ease of riding with 
>>>> “good” 
>>>> fenders. I’ve tried using a flip-flop on my FJ with full coverage, 
>>>> aluminum 
>>>> fenders, and it’s not only a pita to do on the road (as well as 
>>>> time-consuming), but the rear fender could never be set up to fit properly 
>>>> to my standards. An IGH would make that a non-issue, at least until 
>>>> there’s 
>>>> a flat. Removing wheels from bikes rigged with chain tensioners on track 
>>>> dropouts “in the wild” for flats or other maintenance presents yet another 
>>>> nest of problems, with or without fenders. Overall, I’d be happier with a 
>>>> nice IGH. I could even get down to one bike  
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 2:30:13 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> In defense of the old 3 speed igh, the drag, at least for the old SA 
>>>>> AW, has been tested at considerably less than that of much more complex, 
>>>>> multi-epicycle internal gear trains with 7+ gears, and my experience 
>>>>> (considerable with 2 and 3 speed SA hubs, only a little, but some with 
>>>>> modern 7+ gear hubs) bears this out very clearly. 
>>>>>
>>>>> IMO, the simplicity and low drag (and lower weight) of the simpler 
>>>>> multigear hubs makes them preferable, at least to me, to the more 
>>>>> complex, 
>>>>> draggier, and heavier ones.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a QR 17/19 Dingle wheel on my Riv 1999 fixed gear road custom 
>>>>> and switching from the 76" to a 68" headwind gear is very easy, but I 
>>>>> noticed that I downshifted much more often and readily with the 2 speed 
>>>>> TC 
>>>>> hub (76" direct and 66" underdrive), helpful when your direction into the 
>>>>> wind or the slope of the terrain changes often. My point is not that you 
>>>>> ("all y'all") should go get a TC -- last made in the 1940s? Mine is 1937 
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> but that igh's do offer some benefits over manual "get off the bike and 
>>>>> move the chain" shifting. 
>>>>>
&g

Re: [RBW] 3-speeding Quickbeams and SimpleOnes

[Arthur Mayfield]

Yes Eric, it looks like it may just work. Thanks!

On Wednesday, June 21, 2023 at 1:47:59 PM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:

> Does this work?
>
>
> https://handsomecycles.com/products/700c-silver-rear-wheel-sturmey-archer-s-rf3-3-speed-internal-handbuilt
>
> Eric
>
> On Wednesday, June 21, 2023, Arthur Mayfield  wrote:
>
>>
>> I’ve seen the charts/catalogs listing 116-120mm OLD Sturmey Archer IGHs, 
>> but haven’t found one IRL. Soma Fab Shop listed hubs and complete IGH 
>> (IGGY) wheels, but they’ve been OOS forever, and by email earlier this 
>> year, they told me that was likely to remain the case for the future. 
>> Meanwhile, I keep looking and hoping. If anyone finds a hub and isn’t 
>> snagging it for themselves, I’d appreciate a tip
>> On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 3:12:47 PM UTC-4 J L wrote:
>>
>>> Strumy Archer makes a 120 OLD version of their X-RF8 8 speed internal 
>>> hub. It is a modern style hub with a rotary switch rather than the chain 
>>> actuated gear shift.
>>>
>>> On Jun 20, 2023, at 9:50 AM, Arthur Mayfield  wrote:
>>>
>>> I don’t know what the rear spacing is on the Quickbeams and Simple One, 
>>> but my Frank Jones Sr has 120mm track dropouts. Finding a modern 
>>> manufacture IGH with 120mm OLD has been a lost cause for me (and I build my 
>>> own wheels). I’m sure if I pored over the possibles long and diligently 
>>> enough, I’d run across one or a vintage AW, but it simply becomes easier to 
>>> hop on another bike when I need the gears. I’d like to build a 3 spd wheel 
>>> for my FJ, though. 
>>>
>>>
>>> One clear advantage of IGH over other multi-gear options on single speed 
>>> bikes that I haven’t seen mentioned is the ease of riding with “good” 
>>> fenders. I’ve tried using a flip-flop on my FJ with full coverage, aluminum 
>>> fenders, and it’s not only a pita to do on the road (as well as 
>>> time-consuming), but the rear fender could never be set up to fit properly 
>>> to my standards. An IGH would make that a non-issue, at least until there’s 
>>> a flat. Removing wheels from bikes rigged with chain tensioners on track 
>>> dropouts “in the wild” for flats or other maintenance presents yet another 
>>> nest of problems, with or without fenders. Overall, I’d be happier with a 
>>> nice IGH. I could even get down to one bike  
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 2:30:13 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>>> In defense of the old 3 speed igh, the drag, at least for the old SA 
>>>> AW, has been tested at considerably less than that of much more complex, 
>>>> multi-epicycle internal gear trains with 7+ gears, and my experience 
>>>> (considerable with 2 and 3 speed SA hubs, only a little, but some with 
>>>> modern 7+ gear hubs) bears this out very clearly. 
>>>>
>>>> IMO, the simplicity and low drag (and lower weight) of the simpler 
>>>> multigear hubs makes them preferable, at least to me, to the more complex, 
>>>> draggier, and heavier ones.
>>>>
>>>> I have a QR 17/19 Dingle wheel on my Riv 1999 fixed gear road custom 
>>>> and switching from the 76" to a 68" headwind gear is very easy, but I 
>>>> noticed that I downshifted much more often and readily with the 2 speed TC 
>>>> hub (76" direct and 66" underdrive), helpful when your direction into the 
>>>> wind or the slope of the terrain changes often. My point is not that you 
>>>> ("all y'all") should go get a TC -- last made in the 1940s? Mine is 1937 
>>>> -- 
>>>> but that igh's do offer some benefits over manual "get off the bike and 
>>>> move the chain" shifting. 
>>>>
>>>> Personally, I perfer the external simplicity of a simple igh over 
>>>> multiple cogs or rings, and I prefer multiple cogs over multiple rings, 
>>>> again for simplicity and ease of use. AAYMMAWV.
>>>>
>>>> I get back to that downgeared AW Schwinn: 69", 52", 39" which for a 
>>>> $50-total-expenditure beater including new 36 t chainring + shop 
>>>> labor (1989) proved to be very versatile indeed.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Jun 19, 2023 at 10:32 AM Drew Saunders  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> My orange Quickbeam came set up as a "2 speed" with 32-40-chainguard 
>>>>> chainrings on a 74/110 triple (still has those) plus an 18t freewh

Re: [RBW] Re: 3-speeding Quickbeams and SimpleOnes

[Arthur Mayfield]

I’ve seen the charts/catalogs listing 116-120mm OLD Sturmey Archer IGHs, 
but haven’t found one IRL. Soma Fab Shop listed hubs and complete IGH 
(IGGY) wheels, but they’ve been OOS forever, and by email earlier this 
year, they told me that was likely to remain the case for the future. 
Meanwhile, I keep looking and hoping. If anyone finds a hub and isn’t 
snagging it for themselves, I’d appreciate a tip
On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 3:12:47 PM UTC-4 J L wrote:

> Strumy Archer makes a 120 OLD version of their X-RF8 8 speed internal hub. 
> It is a modern style hub with a rotary switch rather than the chain 
> actuated gear shift.
>
> On Jun 20, 2023, at 9:50 AM, Arthur Mayfield  wrote:
>
> I don’t know what the rear spacing is on the Quickbeams and Simple One, 
> but my Frank Jones Sr has 120mm track dropouts. Finding a modern 
> manufacture IGH with 120mm OLD has been a lost cause for me (and I build my 
> own wheels). I’m sure if I pored over the possibles long and diligently 
> enough, I’d run across one or a vintage AW, but it simply becomes easier to 
> hop on another bike when I need the gears. I’d like to build a 3 spd wheel 
> for my FJ, though. 
>
>
> One clear advantage of IGH over other multi-gear options on single speed 
> bikes that I haven’t seen mentioned is the ease of riding with “good” 
> fenders. I’ve tried using a flip-flop on my FJ with full coverage, aluminum 
> fenders, and it’s not only a pita to do on the road (as well as 
> time-consuming), but the rear fender could never be set up to fit properly 
> to my standards. An IGH would make that a non-issue, at least until there’s 
> a flat. Removing wheels from bikes rigged with chain tensioners on track 
> dropouts “in the wild” for flats or other maintenance presents yet another 
> nest of problems, with or without fenders. Overall, I’d be happier with a 
> nice IGH. I could even get down to one bike  
>
> On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 2:30:13 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> In defense of the old 3 speed igh, the drag, at least for the old SA AW, 
>> has been tested at considerably less than that of much more complex, 
>> multi-epicycle internal gear trains with 7+ gears, and my experience 
>> (considerable with 2 and 3 speed SA hubs, only a little, but some with 
>> modern 7+ gear hubs) bears this out very clearly. 
>>
>> IMO, the simplicity and low drag (and lower weight) of the simpler 
>> multigear hubs makes them preferable, at least to me, to the more complex, 
>> draggier, and heavier ones.
>>
>> I have a QR 17/19 Dingle wheel on my Riv 1999 fixed gear road custom and 
>> switching from the 76" to a 68" headwind gear is very easy, but I noticed 
>> that I downshifted much more often and readily with the 2 speed TC hub (76" 
>> direct and 66" underdrive), helpful when your direction into the wind or 
>> the slope of the terrain changes often. My point is not that you ("all 
>> y'all") should go get a TC -- last made in the 1940s? Mine is 1937 -- but 
>> that igh's do offer some benefits over manual "get off the bike and move 
>> the chain" shifting. 
>>
>> Personally, I perfer the external simplicity of a simple igh over 
>> multiple cogs or rings, and I prefer multiple cogs over multiple rings, 
>> again for simplicity and ease of use. AAYMMAWV.
>>
>> I get back to that downgeared AW Schwinn: 69", 52", 39" which for a 
>> $50-total-expenditure beater including new 36 t chainring + shop 
>> labor (1989) proved to be very versatile indeed.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 19, 2023 at 10:32 AM Drew Saunders  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> My orange Quickbeam came set up as a "2 speed" with 32-40-chainguard 
>>> chainrings on a 74/110 triple (still has those) plus an 18t freewheel.
>>> I immediately made it a "3 speed" with a 17/19 Dos Eno freewheel. The 
>>> chain is too slack for the 32/17 to work, so only 3 options: 40/17 (99% of 
>>> my riding), 40/19, 32/19.
>>> I later added a 22T freewheel to the flip side of the flip/flop hub, 
>>> which will work with the 32, but not the 40, so I have an extremely 
>>> inconvenient 4-speed.
>>>
>>> I rarely take it out of the 40/17, but the headwinds this morning made 
>>> me wonder if I should have used the 40/19.
>>>
>>> All of that was much cheaper and easier than getting an internally 
>>> geared hub, and if I did go for an IGH, I'd get a modern 7 or 8 speed 
>>> anyway.
>>>
>> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To un

Re: [RBW] Re: 3-speeding Quickbeams and SimpleOnes

[Arthur Mayfield]

I don’t know what the rear spacing is on the Quickbeams and Simple One, but 
my Frank Jones Sr has 120mm track dropouts. Finding a modern manufacture 
IGH with 120mm OLD has been a lost cause for me (and I build my own 
wheels). I’m sure if I pored over the possibles long and diligently enough, 
I’d run across one or a vintage AW, but it simply becomes easier to hop on 
another bike when I need the gears. I’d like to build a 3 spd wheel for my 
FJ, though. 

One clear advantage of IGH over other multi-gear options on single speed 
bikes that I haven’t seen mentioned is the ease of riding with “good” 
fenders. I’ve tried using a flip-flop on my FJ with full coverage, aluminum 
fenders, and it’s not only a pita to do on the road (as well as 
time-consuming), but the rear fender could never be set up to fit properly 
to my standards. An IGH would make that a non-issue, at least until there’s 
a flat. Removing wheels from bikes rigged with chain tensioners on track 
dropouts “in the wild” for flats or other maintenance presents yet another 
nest of problems, with or without fenders. Overall, I’d be happier with a 
nice IGH. I could even get down to one bike  

On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 2:30:13 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> In defense of the old 3 speed igh, the drag, at least for the old SA AW, 
> has been tested at considerably less than that of much more complex, 
> multi-epicycle internal gear trains with 7+ gears, and my experience 
> (considerable with 2 and 3 speed SA hubs, only a little, but some with 
> modern 7+ gear hubs) bears this out very clearly. 
>
> IMO, the simplicity and low drag (and lower weight) of the simpler 
> multigear hubs makes them preferable, at least to me, to the more complex, 
> draggier, and heavier ones.
>
> I have a QR 17/19 Dingle wheel on my Riv 1999 fixed gear road custom and 
> switching from the 76" to a 68" headwind gear is very easy, but I noticed 
> that I downshifted much more often and readily with the 2 speed TC hub (76" 
> direct and 66" underdrive), helpful when your direction into the wind or 
> the slope of the terrain changes often. My point is not that you ("all 
> y'all") should go get a TC -- last made in the 1940s? Mine is 1937 -- but 
> that igh's do offer some benefits over manual "get off the bike and move 
> the chain" shifting. 
>
> Personally, I perfer the external simplicity of a simple igh over multiple 
> cogs or rings, and I prefer multiple cogs over multiple rings, again for 
> simplicity and ease of use. AAYMMAWV.
>
> I get back to that downgeared AW Schwinn: 69", 52", 39" which for a 
> $50-total-expenditure beater including new 36 t chainring + shop 
> labor (1989) proved to be very versatile indeed.
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 19, 2023 at 10:32 AM Drew Saunders  
> wrote:
>
>> My orange Quickbeam came set up as a "2 speed" with 32-40-chainguard 
>> chainrings on a 74/110 triple (still has those) plus an 18t freewheel.
>> I immediately made it a "3 speed" with a 17/19 Dos Eno freewheel. The 
>> chain is too slack for the 32/17 to work, so only 3 options: 40/17 (99% of 
>> my riding), 40/19, 32/19.
>> I later added a 22T freewheel to the flip side of the flip/flop hub, 
>> which will work with the 32, but not the 40, so I have an extremely 
>> inconvenient 4-speed.
>>
>> I rarely take it out of the 40/17, but the headwinds this morning made me 
>> wonder if I should have used the 40/19.
>>
>> All of that was much cheaper and easier than getting an internally geared 
>> hub, and if I did go for an IGH, I'd get a modern 7 or 8 speed anyway.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Zero-rise Albatross Bar?

[arthur]

Hi Kieran:

You might try VO Porteur bars...not as much backsweep as either Riv Alba 
bars, but really, really comfortable (both road and mtb versions). They're 
narrower, however. I like them much better than the Albas.

AS

On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 1:33:48 PM UTC-7 Kieran J wrote:

> Yeah, these could work. I wish they came in silver without the logos - not 
> Surly's MO, I suppose.
> I could always invert the Albas I already have, but the aesthetics would 
> drive me nuts :-P
>
> KJ
>
> On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 11:36:37 AM UTC-7 Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
>> I thought the Surly Open Bar came in both a zero rise variant and a 
>> rise/drop variant.  I know it's not the same shape as the Albatross but 
>> maybe close enough if the zero rise is the bigger priority.
>>
>> On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 2:16:01 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> I don't think there will be anything much closer to a zero rise 
>>> albatross then the albastache. These brake levers work on road bars.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-levers/products/grand-cru-brake-levers
>>>
>>> On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 2:12:33 PM UTC-4 Kieran J wrote:
>>>
 I've tried the Albastache before - it's a very different bar with a lot 
 of forward sweep and less backsweep. They also only accept road levers. 


 On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 11:02:12 AM UTC-7 jmlmu...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I meant Albastache…
>
> On Oct 28, 2022, at 10:59 AM, Joe Mullins  wrote:
>
> Also the Choco’s don’t (can’t remember what it’s called) swoop 
> forward out in front of the stem like the albatross. Maybe mustache bars?
>
>
>
> Joe in Los Angeles
>
> On Oct 28, 2022, at 10:45 AM, Kieran J  wrote:
>
> 
> I'm looking for a handlebar that's very much like the Alba bars but 
> flat/no rise. Essentially an Alba-size porteur. 
>
> Anyone have any suggestions? The Choco bars are close but not quite 
> flat. 
>
> KJ
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Clem H 59 cm in Grilver

[arthur]

thanks, Damon.  Too bad -  the long chainstays are otherwise great
On Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 11:29:00 PM UTC-7 Daman Kumar wrote:

> Art,
>
> The bus racks didn’t fit my Clem. I haven’t had a chance yet to use the 
> King County light rail, or trains in this region, so I don’t know about 
> those. I have a couple of pictures of it on a “practice rack.” I’ll post 
> them here later tonight.
>
> Daman
>
> On Wed, Oct 12, 2022 at 10:39 PM arthur  wrote:
>
>> Hi Daman:
>>
>> I missed your original post, but had a question if you don't mind 
>> answering: which public transit racks don't fit your Clem H? (I'm local, in 
>> Tacoma) Bus racks? or light rail, train? If they don't fit, is it the long 
>> wheelbase?
>>
>> thanks for any help!
>>
>> Art
>>
>> On Monday, October 3, 2022 at 12:22:15 PM UTC-7 Daman Kumar wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry, cmrngetty -- the frame is sold pending payment/pickup to a 
>>> list-member local to the PNW. However, to answer your question about fit, 
>>> Riv recommends
>>> a PBH range of 89-97 cm here --> 
>>> https://web.archive.org/web/20200928024522/https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbh
>>>
>>> Also, wow, I've had nothing but trouble with Google's notification 
>>> system with this post. Missing PMs, and now failure to notify me of 
>>> cmrngetty's email.
>>>
>>> P.S. Once the sale goes through, I will most likely make a separate FS 
>>> post with parts I do not decide to keep. If you're interested in something, 
>>> feel free
>>> to shoot me a PM.
>>>
>>> Daman
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 1, 2022 at 12:18:03 AM UTC-7 cmrn...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey Daman,
>>>>
>>>> Unfamiliar with this model H sizing. Wondering if this would be a good 
>>>> fit for someone 6'3"?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, September 26, 2022 at 10:14:05 AM UTC-7 Daman Kumar wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Of course I missed something. I’d ideally like to sell the bike as a 
>>>>> complete. But, if you’re just interested in the frame, I’m open to that 
>>>>> as 
>>>>> well. Make me an offer!
>>>>>
>>>>> Daman
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 9:43 AM Daman Kumar  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> A few more!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Monday, September 26, 2022 at 9:41:09 AM UTC-7 Daman Kumar wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> More pictures:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in 
>>>>>> the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>>>>>  
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Clem H 59 cm in Grilver

[arthur]

Hi Daman:

I missed your original post, but had a question if you don't mind 
answering: which public transit racks don't fit your Clem H? (I'm local, in 
Tacoma) Bus racks? or light rail, train? If they don't fit, is it the long 
wheelbase?

thanks for any help!

Art

On Monday, October 3, 2022 at 12:22:15 PM UTC-7 Daman Kumar wrote:

> Sorry, cmrngetty -- the frame is sold pending payment/pickup to a 
> list-member local to the PNW. However, to answer your question about fit, 
> Riv recommends
> a PBH range of 89-97 cm here --> 
> https://web.archive.org/web/20200928024522/https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbh
>
> Also, wow, I've had nothing but trouble with Google's notification system 
> with this post. Missing PMs, and now failure to notify me of cmrngetty's 
> email.
>
> P.S. Once the sale goes through, I will most likely make a separate FS 
> post with parts I do not decide to keep. If you're interested in something, 
> feel free
> to shoot me a PM.
>
> Daman
>
> On Saturday, October 1, 2022 at 12:18:03 AM UTC-7 cmrn...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey Daman,
>>
>> Unfamiliar with this model H sizing. Wondering if this would be a good 
>> fit for someone 6'3"?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> On Monday, September 26, 2022 at 10:14:05 AM UTC-7 Daman Kumar wrote:
>>
>>> Of course I missed something. I’d ideally like to sell the bike as a 
>>> complete. But, if you’re just interested in the frame, I’m open to that as 
>>> well. Make me an offer!
>>>
>>> Daman
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 9:43 AM Daman Kumar  wrote:
>>>
 A few more!

 On Monday, September 26, 2022 at 9:41:09 AM UTC-7 Daman Kumar wrote:

> More pictures:
>
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Re: [RBW] R14 or M1 as a saddlebag support?

[Arthur Walther]

Thanks for all the amazing replies and pictures, folks!

It's been really helpful to see the pics of different configurations here.
Keith makes a good point about the front struts of the R14 not designed to 
swivel vertically. I haven't noticed it earlier, and it's a shame that all 
the RBW51 ones are now sold out. It seems to be a superior option in terms 
of adjustability, albeit with a smaller tombstone.
Also agree with Chris - different racks front and rear seem a bit more 
eye-catching, to me at least, and my intended bag is on a larger side 
anyway (same setup as in Nick's message at the top of the page)
Keeping all that in mind, I'd probably try to get my hands on Mark's rack 
for the front and R14 for the rear of the bike, and see if the frame 
builder has any suggestions in terms of the optimal braze-on position.
In any case, I'd always be able to mount Mark's rack for the saddle bag 
support, if I don't manage to set up the R14 properly.

This feels much more like an informed decision, thank you all for the kind 
contributions!
Arthur

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Re: [RBW] R14 or M1 as a saddlebag support?

[Arthur Walther]

Thanks for all the amazing replies and pictures, folks!
It's very helpful to see the pics of different configurations here.
Keith makes a good point about the front struts of the R14 not designed to 
swivel vertically. I haven't noticed it earlier, and it's a shame that all 
the RBW51 ones are now sold out. It seems to be a superior option in terms 
of adjustability, albeit with a smaller tombstone.
Also agree with Chris - different racks front and rear seem a bit more 
interesting to my eye, and my intended bag is on a larger side (same setup 
as in Nick's message at the top of the page)
Keeping all that in mind, I'll probably try to get my hands on Mark's rack 
for the front and R14 for the rear of the bike, and see if the frame 
builder has any suggestions in terms of the optimal braze-on position.
In any case, I'd always be able to mount Mark's rack for the saddle bag 
support, if I don't manage to set up the R14 properly.

This feels much more like an informed decision, thank you all for the kind 
contributions!
Arthur

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[RBW] R14 or M1 as a saddlebag support?

[Arthur Walther]

Hey folks, 
Arthur here,
I'm a mechanic and bike messenger and I currently live and work in Berlin, 
Germany.
I'm getting a custom frame built and I'm planning to use Riv racks to 
support a rando bag in the front and Carradice Camper saddle bag in the 
rear.
I'm pretty settled on Mark's rack for the front of the bike, but I'm 
pondering the differences between Mark's Rack and R14 used as a saddle bag 
support.

The nearest Rivendell dealer is in the UK, and there is not a whole lot of 
RBW bikes and products over here in Europe, so I don't have access to 
seeing these racks in person, before acquiring them.
I like the minimalist and clean look and versatility of M1 aka Mark's rack, 
and, according to the BlueLug's blog, the R14 can be considered a larger 
version of this same rack.
I'm planning to use the rack almost exclusively as a bag support and like 
my saddlebags tucked in directly under the seat, close to the seatpost. I'd 
like to take advantage of the mid-fork and seat stay eyelets as well, even 
though it probably means sacrificing some rigidity.
Are there any arguments in favor of using either of these racks over the 
other?
I'd be especially happy to hear recommendations from folks who have 
experience with both these racks, but everyone is welcome to share their 
experience using either of them as a rear rack.

Appreciate your feedback!
A.

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto Choco-Norm bars

[arthur]

Hello: looking for a used set of Choco-Norm bars to try them out (again!).

Thanks!

Art
Tacoma

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Frank Jones Sr is finally where I want it

[Arthur Mayfield]

I used VO Diagonalle (sp) rims, which I believe are discontinued. They were 
easy to build up and have been perfect for my (road and path) riding needs. 
I’ve used them before on other builds and have liked them a lot—never 
needed to re-true a wheel built with those rims. I guess VO has 
consolidated/redesigned/minimized their rim selection, so next time I buy 
from them will mean simpler choices and a bit of the unknown. Everyone is 
making their rims tubeless-compatible now. I guess those of us hanging onto 
tubes will have to see how that goes.


On Wednesday, December 29, 2021 at 12:55:48 PM UTC-5 Jay Lonner wrote:

> At the risk of derailing the topic (pun semi-intended) the lack of IGH 
> support on Rivs has become an issue for me. I had a Gus in my cart when 
> they went on sale recently - my size, my color - but ultimately didn’t go 
> through with it because I really like the Rohloff that I have on my Bike 
> Friday. I know it’s possible to kludge it, but I’d prefer to have a bike 
> that has the proper dropouts and brazeons to begin with. Anybody know of a 
> maker who offers a frame with Hillibike features that’s designed to 
> accommodate an IGH and disc brakes? The Tumbleweed Prospector and Surly 
> Ogre come close but don’t have the long wheelbase. Riv’s designs are 
> influential so I suppose it’s only a matter of time…
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>
> On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 2:15:46 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Is it true that Grant has designed a new hillibike frame built around an 
>> IGH? And that he's designing a new "Silver" line of IHG 2 speed fixed and 
>> 3, 4, and 5 speed close, medium, and wide ratio hubs, called HilliHubs? 
>> (Or, it might be HilliHubBubs).
>>
>> No, it's not true, but it's fun to imagine it.
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 28, 2021 at 11:44 AM nlerner  wrote:
>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 12:45:51 AM UTC-5 Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>>>
>>>> I do believe you’re correct, at least I’ve never heard of one. I’ve 
>>>> considered building up a Sturmey-hubbed 3spd wheel for my FJ, but finding 
>>>> a 
>>>> nice 120mm OLD hub has been frustrating. Still keeping an eye out for one, 
>>>> though.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Hi, no need for a new hub. You can swap in a 6 1/4” axle (Sturmey part # 
>>> HSA.108) on any AW hub and fit it to a frame with a 120mm rear end. You 
>>> usually do also need a bit longer indicator to make up for the longer 
>>> spindle. Here’s an axle for sale (not mine, just the result of a Google 
>>> search):
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.hoopriderparts.com/product/sturmey-archer-hsa107-hsa108-axle-for-aw-ab-ag-hubs-5-34in-or-6-14in---nos
>>>  
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Neal Lerner
>>> Brookline MA USA
>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, December 25, 2021 at 6:37:48 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Looks awesome!  I love the Frank Jones Sr - and dream of building one 
>>>>> up with Sturmey drum brake hubs, 3spd - I think this is the only caliper 
>>>>> brake SS bike from Riv (correct me if I'm wrong!) so it's the ideal 
>>>>> candidate... 
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Saturday, 25 December 2021 at 06:29:46 UTC-8 Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> After innumerable changes, I’m finally happy with the way FJ is set 
>>>>>> up (yeah, I know). I have a Sam (caliper brakes) I need to devote some 
>>>>>> attention to, and I’m still modding my old Bianchi Milano after 23 
>>>>>> years, 
>>>>>> lol. The FJ is a wonderful, simple, speedy frame, and after kitting it 
>>>>>> out 
>>>>>> with various wheel and tire combinations, single and double gearing, 
>>>>>> racks, 
>>>>>> bags, bells, and other assorted junk (for this bike, not all), I’m down 
>>>>>> to 
>>>>>> the minimal approach. Rims and hubs are VO, DT Swiss spokes, Soma tires, 
>>>>>> PDW fenders (the best, truly), Tektro brakes, VO cranks, WI ENO 
>>>>>> freewheel, 
>>>>>> Nitto stem and bars, Brooks saddle, and VO bag. Zoom-zoom!
>>>>>> [image: 5D679D5E-81DC-4D9D-8BCC-6506231289C2.jpeg] 
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: My Frank Jones Sr is finally where I want it

[Arthur Mayfield]

Thanks, all, and thanks to *nlerner*—I bookmarked your link for project 
time…. Grant getting into IGHs would be awesome, but I haven’t seen any 
sign of that. He’s deeply involved in saving derailleurs from 
“shimanication.” Sadly (or maybe my prejudice is showing) I suspect that 
electrification is taking the bicycle world by overwhelming storm. OTOH, 
I’m getting older, so maybe a step-thru electric is in my two-wheeled 
future. Meanwhile I’ll hang onto my FJ single speed the way I hang onto my 
two seat roadster. 

On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 5:16:04 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Oh and yes, very nice build.
>
> On Tue, Dec 28, 2021 at 3:15 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Is it true that Grant has designed a new hillibike frame built around an 
>> IGH? And that he's designing a new "Silver" line of IHG 2 speed fixed and 
>> 3, 4, and 5 speed close, medium, and wide ratio hubs, called HilliHubs? 
>> (Or, it might be HilliHubBubs).
>>
>> No, it's not true, but it's fun to imagine it.
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 28, 2021 at 11:44 AM nlerner  wrote:
>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 12:45:51 AM UTC-5 Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>>>
>>>> I do believe you’re correct, at least I’ve never heard of one. I’ve 
>>>> considered building up a Sturmey-hubbed 3spd wheel for my FJ, but finding 
>>>> a 
>>>> nice 120mm OLD hub has been frustrating. Still keeping an eye out for one, 
>>>> though.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Hi, no need for a new hub. You can swap in a 6 1/4” axle (Sturmey part # 
>>> HSA.108) on any AW hub and fit it to a frame with a 120mm rear end. You 
>>> usually do also need a bit longer indicator to make up for the longer 
>>> spindle. Here’s an axle for sale (not mine, just the result of a Google 
>>> search):
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.hoopriderparts.com/product/sturmey-archer-hsa107-hsa108-axle-for-aw-ab-ag-hubs-5-34in-or-6-14in---nos
>>>  
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Neal Lerner
>>> Brookline MA USA
>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, December 25, 2021 at 6:37:48 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Looks awesome!  I love the Frank Jones Sr - and dream of building one 
>>>>> up with Sturmey drum brake hubs, 3spd - I think this is the only caliper 
>>>>> brake SS bike from Riv (correct me if I'm wrong!) so it's the ideal 
>>>>> candidate... 
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Saturday, 25 December 2021 at 06:29:46 UTC-8 Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> After innumerable changes, I’m finally happy with the way FJ is set 
>>>>>> up (yeah, I know). I have a Sam (caliper brakes) I need to devote some 
>>>>>> attention to, and I’m still modding my old Bianchi Milano after 23 
>>>>>> years, 
>>>>>> lol. The FJ is a wonderful, simple, speedy frame, and after kitting it 
>>>>>> out 
>>>>>> with various wheel and tire combinations, single and double gearing, 
>>>>>> racks, 
>>>>>> bags, bells, and other assorted junk (for this bike, not all), I’m down 
>>>>>> to 
>>>>>> the minimal approach. Rims and hubs are VO, DT Swiss spokes, Soma tires, 
>>>>>> PDW fenders (the best, truly), Tektro brakes, VO cranks, WI ENO 
>>>>>> freewheel, 
>>>>>> Nitto stem and bars, Brooks saddle, and VO bag. Zoom-zoom!
>>>>>> [image: 5D679D5E-81DC-4D9D-8BCC-6506231289C2.jpeg] 
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/8b672a18-5716-497d-a03b-636c5373e0c7n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My Frank Jones Sr is finally where I want it

[Arthur Mayfield]

I do believe you’re correct, at least I’ve never heard of one. I’ve 
considered building up a Sturmey-hubbed 3spd wheel for my FJ, but finding a 
nice 120mm OLD hub has been frustrating. Still keeping an eye out for one, 
though.

On Saturday, December 25, 2021 at 6:37:48 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Looks awesome!  I love the Frank Jones Sr - and dream of building one up 
> with Sturmey drum brake hubs, 3spd - I think this is the only caliper brake 
> SS bike from Riv (correct me if I'm wrong!) so it's the ideal candidate... 
>
>
> On Saturday, 25 December 2021 at 06:29:46 UTC-8 Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>
>> After innumerable changes, I’m finally happy with the way FJ is set up 
>> (yeah, I know). I have a Sam (caliper brakes) I need to devote some 
>> attention to, and I’m still modding my old Bianchi Milano after 23 years, 
>> lol. The FJ is a wonderful, simple, speedy frame, and after kitting it out 
>> with various wheel and tire combinations, single and double gearing, racks, 
>> bags, bells, and other assorted junk (for this bike, not all), I’m down to 
>> the minimal approach. Rims and hubs are VO, DT Swiss spokes, Soma tires, 
>> PDW fenders (the best, truly), Tektro brakes, VO cranks, WI ENO freewheel, 
>> Nitto stem and bars, Brooks saddle, and VO bag. Zoom-zoom!
>> [image: 5D679D5E-81DC-4D9D-8BCC-6506231289C2.jpeg] 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Landmark LBS Closed

[Arthur Mayfield]

That’s sad. Without Harris Cyclery, we might never have had Velouria and 
the Lovely Cicycle blog, and I might not have found Rivendell (and would 
still be wandering around lost in Mirkwood). I hope others will take up 
where Harris Cyclery left off, for the benefit of the locals, at least.

On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 9:44:46 AM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:

> I just happened to check into Harris Cyclery the other day to see if they 
> had a certain component in stock only to find this announcement:
> https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/
> Apparently they closed back in June but I had not checked the website for 
> a while and just discovered it.
>
> I've purchased many bike parts as well as one complete bike from those 
> people over the years and they were always very friendly and knowledgable. 
>  Further, that shop was central to the famous Sheldon Brown.  Fortunately, 
> it looks like the website and links to all of Sheldon's articles and advice 
> is still up and running.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem's mount for rear wheel lock.

[Arthur Mayfield]

I considered one, but then decided that: A. For the cost, a smaller U lock 
would work just as well, and be more versatile; and B. Frame locks would 
seem to be most useful for heavy bikes (like many Dutch-style bikes) that 
can’t be easily picked up and walked off with. While I like the idea of 
simply turning a key and walking away, my bikes (as built) are all too 
lightweight and valuable for that. If I wanted to risk it, I could simply 
slip a U lock through the rear triangle almost as quickly as using a frame 
lock.

On Thursday, April 15, 2021 at 9:59:49 AM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:

> I had a Clem-like Dutch bike for many years with a frame lock.  I used it 
> all of the time to lock up in front of a store for a few minutes.  It's 
> also extra security for longer-term lock-ups because it protects your rear 
> wheel from theft.
> I had a cable lock that plugged in as well.  I still used another U-lock 
> for higher security, but the frame lock + cable worked for me 95% of the 
> time.
>
> Tom 
> Herndon, VA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: This is second time this happened and I am seriously annoyed. And I would like help to see this doesn't happen again.

[Arthur Mayfield]

>From your photo, it looks like you have a B-67 saddle (sprung, one clamping 
rail, one support rail). If I’m wrong and you have one of the double 
clamping rail saddles like the B-66, you’re using the wrong kind of seat 
post. If it’s in fact a B-67, the seat post is correct, but the bolt is 
wrong. It should be a hex/Allen head metric bolt with a washer, not 
something with a nut. I suspect that the original bolt was lost and an 
SAE/US bolt was forced/cross-threaded into the top of the clamp, with a nut 
added to tighten it. I would only do that in an emergency where the only 
bolt available was SAE and I was a long way from home, realizing that I’d 
ruined my seat post and would need to replace it as soon as possible. 
Either way, you should have a bicycle mechanic look at your bike and 
install a new post that matches your seat design.

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[RBW] Re: Locking Up your Riv

[Arthur Mayfield]

I’ve tried so many different “light” locks and component securing devices 
(from cheap to really expensive) that I can hardly remember them all. What 
I found out is that I’m unable to relax whenever I use one of them because 
of their inherent lower security. My current choices: Hexlox in all of the 
main component Allen bolts; Hexlox locking skewers; *two* U locks (small 
one through the rear triangle and rear wheel, and a larger one through the 
small U and around whatever I’m locking it to). In the end, the small 
amount of weight is worth it for the additional security and peace of mind. 
I’m still careful about stops and store my bikes indoors at home and 
whenever I can on rides, but I’ve stopped obsessing about every new 
ultralight lock that hits the market. I use two locks because one larger U 
lock always seems to be a pain to fit around my bike rear triangle and what 
it’s being locked to. The really small ones can also be quite difficult to 
cut or break due to limited access, so a cut-and-ride-away or 
opportunity-type thief is either stymied or slowed long enough to encourage 
them to move on to another target.

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones, Losco Bars

[Arthur Mayfield]

Nice Build! I have Loscos on my FJSr as well, although I chose a shorter 
stem and lopped off an inch or so of the handlebars instead. Love these 
bars, and love the sexy curves. Even though they're OOS at Riv, they appear 
to still be available from Blue Lug. That's where I got mine, well before 
Riv carried them.
nitto-losco-bar-silver.html 


>

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[RBW] 650b clearance on Rambouillet?

[Arthur Lewy]

Greetings Wyatt

I will echo comments above. With DiaCompe 750s I easily fit 584x42s on my green 
Ramb.   The chainstays are the biggest limitation: there was 3 mm clearance on 
each side.  My wheels were true and over 3 years I had no problems, although it 
was a source of worry.  

All of this said, I will share my experience with the conversion.  Going to 650 
B on the Ramb, for me led to a series of compromises, like shortening my 
cranks.  Using long centerpulls was a hassle: they are less efficient and due 
to my own limited skills, they are hard to adjust.   My beloved Mark’s rack did 
not play well with the centerpull cable.   I took off the rack but then lost 
capability to use my Shopsack.

This summer I drove back to Seattle from Brooklyn with my beloved lab Princess 
Buttercup.   We drove through Canada to stop by Lakes Huron and Superior.   
From the first day she ran in, fetched balls, dove for rocks and it seemed she 
would swim to Wisconsin.   It reminded me of what Mother Superior said to 
fraulein Maria about doing what you were born to do.  

A few weeks ago I slapped the 700c wheels back on the Ramb along with the 
Silver brakes, the Mark’s rack, basket, and Shopsack.  In the absence of Ruffy 
Tuffys, I put on Vitoria Corsa Courses.  There’s gobs of tire room and the Ramb 
just sings again in a way it didn’t do with the supposedly cushier 650Bs.  It 
is such a joy.   

I am sure that wide tires are great.   At this point I would only do
them on a bike really designed for them.  

Just my 2 cents.  Good luck figuring things out.  

Art Lewy
Seattle 

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Señor for sale

[Arthur Mayfield]

I have the FJ Sr in the next size larger, also grilver. I have to say that 
it's not only one of the most beautiful bikes I've ever seen, it rides like 
a dream. I've had both 32mm and now 38mm tires on it with fenders. I'm 
pretty sure I could fit 42s without fenders. While medium reach Tektros 
(r737) will fit in front, the long reach (r559) is needed in the rear. I 
haven't tried any other brakes to see what else fits. The Tektros you're 
providing are a safe bet.

Somebody is going to be exceptionally happy with your frame when they get 
it built up!

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[RBW] Re: Advice Needed: Tires

[Arthur Mayfield]

I want to throw in a vote for Soma Supple Vitesse SL tires. I have them 
currently on my Frank Jones Sr in 700c x 38, but have also run 700c x 33 on 
that bike. Both are the most comfy tires I've ever ridden on, and as light 
and fast as I need. They come in two variants, SL (super light) and EX 
(extra wear, with just a little thicker rubber on the tread. They also come 
in 700c x 42. Current production is tubeless-suitable, but some vendors 
still have the non-tubeless version in stock.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell models and year they were introduced?

[Arthur Mayfield]

Frank Jones Sr 
2017 Special Edition One Production Run
Single Speed/Track Dropouts


>

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[RBW] Re: What's the latest in 700c fenders? Planet Bike Cascadia ALX (50mm), PDW Full Metal (45mm) on a Rambouillet?

[Arthur Mayfield]

*Patrick Moore* and *Lammbo*,
>
The PDW fenders are made differently than Honjos/Velo Orange. Thicker, 
harder grade of aluminum with cut edges rather than rolled. I'd say they're 
less likely to dent, but I don't run fenders on gravel, so I haven't really 
tested that hypothesis. It stands to reason, though, that thicker, harder 
fenders would be more resistant to denting.

On my Frank Jones Sr, I run Soma Supple Vitesse 700x33's, and they fit 
perfectly under the PDW 37's. Not having rolled edges gives a few more mm 
clearance and rain coverage. That said, I don't like to use fenders as 
oversized as a lot of people do. My thought is that you can avoid stick 
jams two ways. One is to have enough room to let them ride the tire all the 
way through. The other is that you fit tire to fender closely enough that 
sticks don't have room to get started—of course, having good breakaway 
struts becomes more important if you choose the second option. PDW's have 
the best I've seen. Snow clearance is another thing, and I have virtually 
zero experience with that.

IIRC, the fork and rear clearances on my FJ are similar to the Roadeo, 
since it's essentially a single speed road bike. I was able to fit my PDW 
45's (from the Sam), but the front brake calipers (Tektro R559) kept 
bumping the top of the fenders, and I didn't really need fenders that big 
for the tires I wanted to run. With PDW 37's and 700x33 tires, I found I 
could use smaller brakes in front (Tektro R737) which I prefer anyway for 
feel and looks on that bike. Fender fit has to be considered in conjunction 
with brakes, if you have side pulls. If you have center pulls, cantis, 
linears, discs, or hub brakes, your fender choice would be driven almost 
entirely by tire and frame clearances.


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[RBW] Re: What's the latest in 700c fenders? Planet Bike Cascadia ALX (50mm), PDW Full Metal (45mm) on a Rambouillet?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I've got a set of PDW 700x45 city fenders on my 650b Sam, and PDW 700x37 on 
my Frank Jones Sr. I've previously had various Honjos, SKS, Planet Bike, 
and others I don't even remember too well. The PDW fenders are by far the 
sturdiest (without being at all heavy), best made, best designed, quietest, 
easiest to fit, and prettiest (downright elegant) I've ever used. The 
safety break-away stays are effective and still attractive. For the 45's on 
my 650b Sam, I shortened the back ends of both the front and rear, then 
used the cut off pieces as templates to reshape and drill the ends so the 
mudflaps would fit. They aren't inexpensive, but are well worth the price 
to me.

>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTT: New Brooks B17 for B67

[Arthur Mayfield]

I have a B67 I could trade. Sent you email.

On Tuesday, June 11, 2019 at 12:16:05 AM UTC-4, gabriel luke thompson 
aspinwall wrote:
>
> Anyone interested, can email @ gabeLukE(at)gmail
>
> Thanks
>

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[RBW] Re: Aesthetics Issue

[Arthur Mayfield]

I have a Dirt Drop on my Sam, and a Technomic on my Frank Jones Sr, and both 
were chosen for aesthetics, since either would have put my bars in the right 
position for me. I like the Dirt Drop on bikes with sloping top tubes, and 
Technomics on bikes with level or nearly level top tubes. When you look at them 
from the side (regardless of handlebars), the bikes look better to me if the 
stems follow or approximate the line of the top tube.

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[RBW] Re: F.S 56 cm. Simpleone

[Arthur Mayfield]

Man what a nice bike! If I didn't already have a Frank Jones, and if your 
SimpleOne wasn't a little too big for me, I'd be all over that deal. Can't 
believe it's not gone already.

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[RBW] Re: How young is too young for a boy to get a hatchet?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I've had a knife in my pocket since I was five, but the machete I got when 
I was twelve (without my mom's knowledge) gave me a nasty, deep cut on my 
index finger. I was holding it in one hand (with the edge turned forward) 
while brushing something off my jeans with the other. There's a nice scar 
to remind me, since I used a butterfly bandage so mom wouldn't find out—It 
definitely needed emergency room treatment and stitches. I could have 
easily lost the finger or the use of it, or have gotten an infection. When 
I was 16, I was removing an old bush with a hatchet and chopped into an 
underground wasp nest.They were a bit incensed, and the result was neither 
pretty nor comfortable. Luckily I'm not allergic, but hundreds of stings is 
dangerous, allergic or not.

The problem I see with chopping tools and kids under about 14, is that they 
can do a lot more serious damage in a flash than most pocketknives. I'd 
recommend close parental supervision.

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[RBW] Re: About a crash a Riv could have prevented

[Arthur Mayfield]

I've done quite a few rebuild/conversions of 80s-early 90s era mtn bikes 
(before the term "hardtail" was in common usage) to city/commuters, often 
with solid, dependable 36 spoke 650b wheels and rim brakes, comfy 
street/gravel tires, Brooks B67/68 saddles, upright bars, etc. Usually I 
convert them to 1x7/8/9 at the same time, friction shifted, racks, and 
fenders. Buyers and giftees have all commented on how secure and 
comfortable they feel with the riding position, as well as how much better 
they can see traffic and their surroundings. Too many bikes are designed 
and equipped as low-quality wannabe on or off road competition machines, 
which is a waste of money better spent on the right mix of geometry and 
components for the average rider headed out for a pleasant, low speed ride 
around town or to the market. The same type bike makes for a great commuter 
for those who don't want to challenge vehicles 100 times their mass to the 
right of way at breakneck speeds over potholed streets. In other words, 
most new riders or adults who haven't ridden in many years. Would a Riv be 
a great choice for this type of riding? Of course, but rarely can 
new/casual riders swallow the price of admission, even if they can easily 
afford it.


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[RBW] Re: Anyone tried Brooks rubber Cambium bartape?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I should add that Cinelli "cork" tape is about the most comfortable I've 
used, other than the VO elkhide sew on wrap (which has been OOS for so long 
I'm thinking it may be discontinued).


>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone tried Brooks rubber Cambium bartape?

[Arthur Mayfield]

You won't get "cush" with the Cambium tape. It's hard as a rock and is so 
stiff it doesn't wrap well (unless they've improved it since a couple of 
years ago). It's also quite abrasive to the hand. All in all, it was one of 
the biggest wastes of money I've ever made on cycling gear (and I've made 
some big ones). I was really disappointed, since I love my Cambium saddles 
and was hoping to match.


>

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[RBW] Re: Totally OT, but no TV

[Arthur Mayfield]

I cut the cable about a month ago. My setup is a Roku stick plugged into my 
tv and high speed internet over a DSL connection. I am mostly 
Apple-centric, but decided to go with Roku after some internet research. 
I'm still learning to use the system, but I've been happy so far. I already 
had Netflix and Amazon Prime accounts, and am a PBS sustainer, so those are 
my main sources. I added the Acorn channel to Prime for British and Aussie 
shows. There are a lot (thousands) of free channels on Roku, but most are 
either old tv/movies, or for specific interests. ABC offers a free channel, 
but you have to wait a week after they air their shows live. NBC is much 
the same. CBS is subscription. I get my current news via the internet, so 
Roku is providing me with far more than I have time to watch.

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[RBW] Re: Billie v. Albatross.

[Arthur Mayfield]

Don't know how tall you are or what size bike, but 130mm (even 120mm) is a 
pretty long stem, moving the steering fulcrum over an inch beyond design 
parameters for most frames, which tend to be designed around 90-100mm 
stems. Whatever, I would say you won't see much, if any, difference in 
reach between the Alba/120mm and the Billie/130mm. Not sure how much 
rise/drop difference there might be between the two, but raising or 
lowering your current set up could easily account for height in most 
cases—the beauty of threaded steerers and quill stems.
OTOH, if you really want the Billie bar for aesthetic or other reasons, or 
"just because," you could probably just keep your 120mm stem and whack off 
an inch or so from the ends of the bar.

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[RBW] Re: Riv complete: appropriate mechanical expectations?

[Arthur Mayfield]

Just to throw another wrench into this discussion, I've gotten two frames 
from Riv. The first was a Sam in 2013. They told me at the time that the 
tubes had been sprayed with Boeshield T-9, not Frame Saver (which is a 
specific product, not a generic term). The second frame was a Frank Jones 
Sr, delivered in February. I asked about tube treatment, and was told that 
none was applied (which I was happy about because I wanted to use Frame 
Saver without first having to strip/flush out the Boeshield. 

On Monday, May 21, 2018 at 11:04:03 AM UTC-4, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> I've just taken delivery of a Clem-L complete, a gift for my girlfriend. 
> As I get set to attach pedals, saddle, bell, etc., it occurs to me to ask 
> what people's experience with the mechanical preparation of Rivendell 
> completes has been. Should I expect that everything that should be lubed, 
> has been lubed? Do I need to second-guess the build? I've never heard 
> stories of that sort here, so I'm guessing not. What are people's 
> expectations for finishing/prepping a newly-delivered Riv complete bike? 
>
> Related question: does Riv normally frame-save their complete bikes?
>
> rod
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Arthur Mayfield]

I love quirky bikes like this Clem. My Sam has been, at various times, a 
one speed, 2x7/8/9, two speed Auto, and currently a 1x9, with drops, North 
Road, and porteur bars, road, city, and reverse levers, bar end, thumbie, 
stem, and DT shifters, and front, back, or both racks, as well as numerous 
other minor configuration changes. I have an almost completed restoration 
of an old Trek 810 ladies that's now a 1x8 city bike, and a Bianchi Milano 
with the fattest tires I could fit and a coaster hub (my lightweight beach 
bike). I have two possible hubs awaiting my new Frank Jones Jr—A Grand Cru 
flip/flop with a 17/19 double freewheel on one side and a 22 freewheel on 
the other, and a SunXCD with a Compass 14-28 cassette ('cause who wouldn't 
want to build a 120mm hub 2x6 road bike out of a new SS with track 
dropouts, lol). I haven't built either hub into wheels yet because I want 
to verify whether the frame will take 650b rims, or if I'll have to do the 
expected thing and buy some 700c's. Vive la difference!

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[RBW] Re: Lessons in Singlespeeding

[Arthur Mayfield]

After several configurations, I finally settled on 1x9 for my Sam, then 
went from bar end shifters to stem to DT (with a clamp on mount). I 
definitely shift less often with the DT than before. The difference between 
riding a derailleur bike in one gear and a SS, though, is how much more 
torque you can exert on the SS with its thicker rings and heavier chain. I 
want a true SS and will probably be an immediate pre-order(er) when/if RBW 
brings back a SS frame.

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 9:27:52 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> With several people interested in single speeding I thought I’d start this 
> thread for tips and lessons we’ve learned single speeding (and fixed too, 
> as I’ll soon be diving in). What have you learned, or are learning?
>
> I cover a lot of bits I learned here, in my review of the Quickbeam: 
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/quickbeam-sightings
>
> As I’ve been riding exclusively single speed now the last few weeks (and 
> my Hunqapillar is single speed, just using the 60” gear in the cassette as 
> that was the one that worked), I’ve again been impressed with how different 
> the mind/body/heart/soul set is with zero options but pedaling.
>
> With gears, the mind is always watchful and mindful of cadence and asking 
> the question “is it time to shift?” and “will this hill necessitate a 
> shift?” None of that nonsense. Me legs are me gears.
>
> I was good at being relaxed pedaling in a certain RPM range, and I shifted 
> to stay in that.  I “needed” more gear range when the terrain became 
> steeper because otherwise I was out of that range.
>
> Single speeding has taught me to relax from extremely slow cadence 
> pedaling to extremely high cadence. I’ve learned to climb with an 
> unweighted seated position, doing repeated one-legged squats, my weight 
> pushing down on the pedals to assist, my arms pulling on the bars to 
> assist. Yet it is soft and easy. Anaerobic work at an aerobic pace. It 
> feels amazing.
>
> Fast cadences feel a lot like running barefoot (and I expect fixed with 
> increase this in many ways) — floating along, limpid and lithe, riding a 
> rail as circles turn beneath me (this feeling is true all the time, 
> actually, but more so at higher cadences for me).
>
> Ride till you can’t, walk till you can.
>
> Obey this and the amount of time you spend walking will decrease steadily 
> and surprisingly as your aerobic fitness increases. What is “can’t”? For 
> me, it is when I am no longer breathing fairly relaxed through my nose (I 
> make exceptions to this when I want to push myself, or for short, steep 
> climbs).
>
> Intentionally ride the wrong of your two gears, both too high and too low. 
> You will learn a lot.
>
> The one geared bike is an amazing teacher, but it requires humility to 
> learn from it. A deraileur gets in the way of this learning.
>
> Most of all, enjoy and ride with abandon! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender Brands (Besides SKS) That Work On A Sam

[Arthur Mayfield]

My Sam is a 650b, but i do have Tektro 559's. My tires are Soma Grand 
Randonneur 42s, so are probably close to yours in diameter and even wider. 
My all-time favorite fenders are Portland Design Works Full Metal Fenders 
(city size). They are 700c x 45mm size. I mount them to the brake bolt in 
front with a Problem Solvers fender nut, and to the rear brake bridge 
directly (adding a leather washer. PDW FMFs are light but quite sturdy and 
have possibly the best/safest strut release design on the market. And 
they're the quietest fenders I've ever run, my previous experience having 
been with Honjos (with Berthoud hardware), SKS, and Planet Bike.

On Saturday, September 16, 2017 at 5:43:22 PM UTC-4, tc wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
> I'm interested to know what brands of fenders (besides SKS) you've 
> successfully installed on a 700c Sam with Tektro R559 long reach brakes & 
> Alex DM18 rims that come with the 'Complete' build.
>
> I just spent the better part of today trying to install some 700c X 50 
> Berthoud stainless steel fenders, but gave up because of front fender 
> fitment issues ... didn't even get to the back.
>
> The issues for me:
>
>- The fender curvature is too open/flat, pushing up against the 
>non-drive side brake arm, which forces that brake arm closed.  So, hat 
> shoe 
>very slightly brushes the rim, with brakes open wide.  
>I did try to squeeze the fender sides together, but was not able to do 
>much good, and was scared of crimping them (I'd already slightly crimped 
>the back of the fender when testing the stay length, so didn't want to 
>force the issue).
>
>- The daruma bolt fender attachment point under the fork crown 
>positions the fender too high, again pushing the fender up against the 
>underside of the non-drive side brake arm.  If the fender wasn't already 
> so 
>close to the tire I could've added another rubber washer on top of the 
>fender to effectively lower it.
>
>- The daruma bolt shipped with the fenders is very long ... too long.  
>Not wanting the end of the bolt dangling too close to the tire, I use a 
>bolt cutter to chop it to size, and ended up fowling the threads such that 
>I couldn't get the nut to screw on, no matter how much I filed and tried 
> to 
>re-thread it.
>
>
> So, looking for another brand of fender.  I prefer to keep the brakes, 
> rims, and tires I have.  If I have to go with the SKS longboards I will, 
> but I much prefer the look and sturdiness of metal fenders.  I hope someone 
> has had success!
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Brooks B68

[Arthur Mayfield]

I have four B68s. Sent you email.

On Tuesday, September 12, 2017 at 12:43:47 AM UTC-4, VeloVert wrote:
>
> Hi all. Looking for a Brooks B68 saddle in new/newish condition. Black or 
> Brown preferred. Please PM me if you have one for sale. Thank you. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini Gray vs Blue?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I've had a blue Sam for several years, and it's a pretty, unique shade with 
cream accents, but I found coordinating other pieces to it to be 
challenging. I ended up with everything else either bright silver, black, 
or dark gray/titanium gray. I tried cream SKS fenders, but they seemed a 
bit too faddish/city bike for my tastes. If I had the choice, I'd go with 
the gray Roadini and leave my options open for coordinating cable housing 
and other parts and accessories.

On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 4:01:49 PM UTC-4, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> At a glance and in closeup photos, I prefer the blue to the gray.  But the 
> gray might look better as a complete bike.  Matching more colors when 
> choosing parts and accessories.  What do you guys think?

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Front Racks and Baskets for All-Rounders/Atlantis/etc?

[arthur]

Here's another one to consider: a new mass production variation on the 
Cyclefab/Haulin' Colin front rack: the SOMA demi-porteur: 
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/demi-porteur-rack. I have one: it's 
aluminium, but nicely made. No light mount, but (in my opinion) there are 
lots of ways around that. Claims to support 10kg. Ideal size for a basket.

Art
Tacoma

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[RBW] Re: FS: 1982 Medici Pro Strada, 62cm (Poor Man's Roadeo)?

[arthur]

Jeremy, what's the top tube length on that Medici?

Beautiful bike,

Art

On Monday, May 9, 2016 at 7:27:36 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> 'nother bump.  Make me an offer!  This thing is smooth and absolutely 
> flies.  
>
> On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 8:44:33 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>
>> Bump.  Now offering $900 to a list member.  
>>
>> And Jim--not sure about what I'll do for future Eroicas! I'll probably go 
>> the UJB route like Joe B.  
>>
>> On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 2:30:34 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Folks-
>>>
>>> I'm selling my Eroica bike, a 62cm 1982 Medici Pro Strada. It's a great 
>>> bike, a vintage steel racer with all of the things that modern racing bikes 
>>> have lost: tire clearance, ability to raise the bars, smooth ride, and 
>>> simplicity.  With the Technomic and Noodles, it does feel like a "Poor 
>>> Man's Roadeo" to me.  I've had a lot of fun, fixing it up and then 
>>> training for and riding Eroica on it, but I need funds for other exciting 
>>> bike projects (CleMTB!). I'm asking $1200 to the general public, but would 
>>> do $1000 for a list member, and can ship it (I'm in Sacramento, CA).
>>>
>>> Pictures here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskrQW4Gs
>>>
>>> Full ad: 
>>> ---
>>> For sale is a 1982 Medici Pro Strada with a 62cm frame. I bought this 
>>> bike used from its second owner last summer, and put a good deal of work 
>>> into servicing and rebuilding it to ride in the Eroica California this 
>>> spring. It is a wonderful bike to ride, with an interesting history, but I 
>>> need to sell it to raise funds for other projects. 
>>>
>>> The frame was built in Los Angeles of Columbus SP tubing, with some of 
>>> the very first investment cast lugs ever to be used on production bicycles, 
>>> designed by the great Mario Confente. More information about Medici 
>>> bicycles can be found here: 
>>>
>>> http://www.classicrendezvous.com/USA/Medici.htm
>>>
>>> The build is mostly original with only a couple of non-original parts to 
>>> help achieve reasonable gearing and fit, which makes this classic not only 
>>> interesting to look at, but fun to ride as well. All of the bearing systems 
>>> are new or recently replaced, all of the cables and housing are new, as are 
>>> the chain, brake pads, brake lever hoods, and bar tape. 
>>> -The shifters, derailleurs, brakes, brake levers, and seatpost are all 
>>> the original Campagnolo Super Record. 
>>> -The wheels are also original, featuring Phil Wood 3 piece hubs laced to 
>>> Mavic MA40. As part of the rebuild process I sent the wheels back to Phil 
>>> Wood for new bearings. Tires are the superlative Grand Bois Cerf "Extra 
>>> Leger" in 700x28. 
>>> -I replaced the original, cracked Super Record cranks with a Sugino AT 
>>> cranks to allow the use of 45-34 chainrings, which paired with the original 
>>> Suntour 13-26 New Winner freewheel gives very usable gears, especially for 
>>> hilly riding. New MKS Touring pedals. Bottom bracket is a new Shimano UN-55 
>>> sealed cartridge unit. 
>>> -The handlebar and stem are both new Nittos, a Mod. 177 "Noodle" (44cm 
>>> width) on a 80mm Technomic Stem. This combination looks classic but offers 
>>> better hand positions and a higher bar position than the original setup. 
>>> -I replaced the original headset with a 1990's era Campagnolo Chorus 
>>> one. 
>>>
>>> I focused my efforts on the mechanical functionality of the bike, and it 
>>> rides great. The frame is is good shape but has a few spots of paint wear 
>>> and surface rust, none of which are a major concern in my opinion. I am 
>>> happy to provide detailed photos of everything, and will include the 
>>> original Campagnolo cranks (left arm is cracked), Suntour Superbe pedals, 
>>> Phil Wood bottom bracket (needs servicing), Cinelli bars (bent), and 
>>> Cinelli stem with the purchase of the bike.
>>>
>>> Cash or paypal only. Reasonable offers will be entertained.
>>>
>>> -Jeremy
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: single silver downtube shifter

[Arthur Mayfield]

I've got a left one, David. The bike I used the right one on is a 1x7/8/9, 
so I may as well sell the left. $20, shipped within the US.

On Monday, October 26, 2015 at 12:17:29 AM UTC-4, dstein wrote:
>
> Looking to free up some handlebar space and move the left shifter from the 
> handlebars to downtube. Since they're sold as a pair hoping to score just a 
> single one here. Let me know if you have one to sell! Also looking for a 
> left Sunrace shifter to mount on the right on the inside.
>

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[RBW] Re: Best rear support rack for med sadlesack?

[Arthur Lewy]

I have years of happy service so far with my medium Saddlesack and an R14 
(Toprack).  The rack is attached at the rear dropouts with no problems managing 
appropriate loads.  The tie-down loops on the bag match up nicely with the rack 
width and make for a solid connection without sway.  In addition to 
functionality, the rack is an attractive addition to the Ram/Mark's rack combo.

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[RBW] Re: high-setback seatpost

[arthur]

Every once in a while, I see the rare topic about which I might know at 
least a little more than the average I-bob: saddle setback!

I'm tall , with long femurs, and ride Brooks saddles on bikes with 73 
degree seat angles -- hence I need up to 30mm of setback. The S-84 is 
really the best option. Only those old SR MTE-1000 posts have more. But 
there are three other decent options:

SJS Cycles sells the VK saddle adjuster, which you can pair with a 
Laprade-type post. (some work better with this adapter than others, because 
of the shapes of the cradles) 
You could buy a BMX layback post in 25.4, with an adapter shim. (not sure 
of total setback, but it's high)
Or you could get the radical Brompton Saddle Pin adapter, like this: 
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/34302359649100/

The Brompton adapter looks pretty burly, so would survive hard use.

hope this helps

Arthur


On Saturday, September 5, 2015 at 6:24:45 AM UTC-7, Jon Dukeman in the 
foothills of Colorado wrote:
>
>
>
> On Saturday, September 5, 2015 at 7:21:54 AM UTC-6, Jon Dukeman in the 
> foothills of Colorado wrote:
>>
>> This might work for you and doesn't break the bank.
>>
>> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/seatposts/vo-grand-cru-seat-post-long-setback-1648.html
>>
>  
> Paul makes one also  
> http://paulcomp.com/shop/components/tall-and-handsome/  
>
>>
>> On Saturday, September 5, 2015 at 4:26:46 AM UTC-6, Thomas Lynn Skean 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, all.
>>>
>>> Anyone know of a seatpost with more setback than the RBW-sold S-84?
>>>
>>> Yours,
>>> Thomas Lynn Skean
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Fenders: Cream or Silver?

[Arthur Mayfield]

My understanding (perhaps from an old Blug post) is that Riv developed the 
cream Longboards to in conjunction with SKS to match their head tubes. I 
have a set, and already had a set of hammered Honjos that also fit my Sam. 
They both look nice, but I ended up fitting (with some 
tinkering/shortening) a set of PDW dark gray Full Metal Fenders in 700 x 
45mm to match my Nitto dark gray M194 bars and Jagwire titanium gray 
housing (all on a blue and cream Sam). I think black anodized, hammered VOs 
would look awesome on orange or black Rivs, but maybe not as sweet on Blue 
Sams. Green Sams need silver fenders, imo. In the end, I think I've decided 
that cream Longboards are just too much of a good thing, but it's 
admittedly a personal preference.

On Thursday, August 20, 2015 at 1:19:58 PM UTC-4, Fred Craven wrote:

 I put wider tires on my Rivendell and the existing fenders are, now, too 
 narrow. So, I'm getting wider ones.

 Silver is an old standby (very nice; classic) But I also like the idea of 
 cream fenders.
 Does the Cream match, or mostly match, the Riv Headtube Cream?

 Since Rivendell sells the cream, I assume that it looks fine, but I 
 appreciate your input.


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[RBW] Re: How to try DT shifters on a blue Sam?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I got a No 33, which fits 31-34mm (Sam's downtube is 32.3mm, iirc). I taped 
the inside surface of the clamp with 3M packing tape and it held securely 
and didn't mar the paint. Inner tube might work, but it might be too thick 
or might slide around. 

On Friday, August 14, 2015 at 5:54:52 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:

 Arthur:

 Which size did you get? Looks like they have a lot of sizes online.
 I'm thinking of using a piece of scrap inner tube to line it with. 


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[RBW] Re: How to try DT shifters on a blue Sam?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I got one of the clamp on mounts from ebay (Moose Racing). Currently I've 
got my Sam set up as a 1x9 with a single Paul thumbie on the stem, but when 
I had it rigged as a 2x9, I put a single layer of 3M packing tape on the 
inside of the Moose Racing clamp, then mounted it to the downtube using the 
brazed on cable stops as backstops. Silver/Dia Compe shifters or Dura Ace 
downtube shifters work work great.

On Tuesday, August 11, 2015 at 10:33:21 AM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:

 If I want to try DT shifters on my blue Sam, how do I do that without 
 tearing up the paint on the DT with a boss clamp? 

 Also, is there some formula to calculate where to place the bosses on the 
 DT? 

 Too bad the frame didn't come with bosses. 

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[RBW] Re: Cambium VS. B-17 question

[Arthur Mayfield]

I ride my C-17 (carved) flat. I also have one of the first batch of 
uncarved C-17s that I haven't ridden in a while, but I think I set it up 
flat as well. I do tend to move the Cambiums a centimeter or so further 
back than the B-17. For my B-17 I tilt the nose just barely above flat. 
There's no break in period with Cambium saddles, btw. A few thousand miles 
on mine and they're just like they were from the start, with the exception 
that the fabric surface is a bit smoother and the natural color has a bit 
of patina from friction and exposure. I like the look and love my Cambiums.

On Monday, July 27, 2015 at 9:20:03 PM UTC-4, jinxed wrote:

 For those that have ridden both, and tend to ride their B17 nose up, do 
 you find you have to orient the Cambium the same? The nose up B17 works 
 well for me, but when I venture off road it's not very friendly and has 
 caused some problems. I'm hoping the Cambium with it's claimed broken in 
 B17 out of the box comfort can be run close to level. I realize everyone is 
 different, but if you've run a B17 and a C17, I'd love to hear your 
 comparisons on setup.

 I have been wanting to try a Cambium for some time, and might seek one out 
 based on this.


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[RBW] Re: Cheviot bridge placement aka: adventures in fender installation

[Arthur Mayfield]

I've found that I prefer the chain stay mounting to be a bit forward of 
perfect alignment to ease removing and replacement of the rear wheel. I use 
a spacer there, but not long enough to bring the fender to an equidistant 
position with the seat stay and strut placements. It's not really 
noticeable unless someone is looking for it. To solve your triangulation 
issue, install a rack that attaches to the fenders, like the VO 
Constructeur rear rack, for instance. Or, you could simply add a strut and 
use the rack eyelets. The rear rack, with two mounting points to the 
fender, would be stiffer. I don't ride with fenders in the dry part of the 
summer (when I mostly do short, intense, conditioning rides). but I leave 
the rack mounted to the fenders when I remove them. It takes me all of five 
minutes to reattach the fenders when I need them or the rack.

On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 7:41:56 AM UTC-4, jeffrey kane wrote:

 We've been using my wife’s new Cheviot (aka: the Mother’s Day Chev) almost 
 non-stop around town since the start of summer … without fenders. I figured 
 I’d get to them once we settled into the season a bit. In the end I went 
 with a pair of Velo Orange Snakeskin 650b/50's to clear the Hetres and 
 while they don't offer a particularly large area of coverage, they are 
 positively handsome! V/O certainly has their fender line dialed in. As 
 others have mentioned here, their hardware is cleanly refined … even the 
 packaging is first rate.

 What has thrown me for a loop, however, is the uneven spacing of the 
 Chev's seat and chain stay bridges. Normally on a Riv I'd have secured the 
 rear fender at the the seat-stay bridge and just dealt with the horizontal 
 drilling for caliper brakes (my favorite fix is to use a fender daruma as a 
 spacer). But in the case of the of the mixte, the brake bridge is simply 
 too close to the chain-stay bridge to offer much rigidity in terms of 
 triangulation.  And anyway, Riv spec’d another bridge, drilled vertically 
 on the seat-stay.

 So it didn't seem odd to me to attach the fender to the unused seat-stay 
 bridge, right? Except that bridge is over 6mm too high! And just to 
 complicate matters, the chain stay bridge is almost 2.5 cm too far forward! 
 Clearly these bridges were placed without fender alignment in mind (despite 
 the proper drilling for such). I don’t understand the point since you can’t 
 get around the brake bridge spacing either way … it’s not like it’s usable 
 clearance for bigger tires. I’m wondering if anyone else has encountered 
 the same and whether there's an explaination out there somewhere for this 
 oddness?

 Here's some pic's of my spacing hacks:



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[RBW] Re: IRD Thumbshifters and Quill shift mount questions

[Arthur Mayfield]

My experience is with the IRD stem mount and a couple of single cranksets 
on my Sam... Yes, you can move your thumb shifter(s) to the stem mount, 
although you'll have to disconnect the cable (because of the cable 
adjusters on the thumb mount and stem mount). If you want to just run the 
RD, I wouldn't bother with the stem mount, however. My favorite orientation 
(there are several options on the stem mount) has the cable housing and 
adjuster pointed down, almost parallel to the head tube, and this is pretty 
much how it would point if you mounted the right thumb shifter on the 
quill. This orientation uses the shortest amount of housing—Make sure 
you're careful to give it just enough without leaving an oversized 
loop/S-curve in the cable. Using the shortest cable housing you can will 
give a very crisp, positive shifting, similar to downtube shifters. It's 
also a very minimalist, clean look.

As far as running a 1X drivetrain goes, it's important to try to get the 
straightest chainline you can to the middle cog (achieved by choosing the 
right bottom bracket, using a SS/track crankset, etc. Also helps a lot to 
replace the chainring with one designed for single speed/track use, but 
made for 3/32 chain. The teeth will be taller and there won't be any ramps 
or tooth variations like on a derailleur chainring. The chain might still 
bounce off occasionally, especially when you're in the lowest gear. 
Currently, I use a VO Grand Cru 50.4 BCD crank with a 44t single ring on a 
108mm BB. that gives me a perfect chainline to the #5 cog on a 9 spd 
cassette. I mounted a simple Deda Elementi Dog Fang to protect against 
chain derailment to the inside while in low gears, and I've heard it 
working a few times. Previously, I was using an FSA Gimonti track crank 
with a 42t ring and the Dog Fang. If you can't/don't want to do so much 
tinkering, you can get something like the Paul chain guard that adjusts to 
your crank position and fits over the top of the chain and ring to prevent 
derailment. I've done that too. Some people use a bash guard in the outer 
ring spot or file the teeth off the outer ring to keep the chain from 
derailing to the outside, but I haven't had any problem with derailment to 
the outside (the Paul devise prevents inner or outer derailment).

On Thursday, July 9, 2015 at 8:43:08 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:

 When I bought my Hillborne from the fine Riv folks I got the Albatross 
 bars with IRD thumbshifters set up. When Brian was building it up he warned 
 me that while those thumbshifters are fantastic (and they are) that it 
 might be better to go with the stem shifter mount or bar ends to give me 
 max amount of positions on the bars.  I really wanted the shifting right by 
 my hands and I don't like bar end shifters that much so I told him it would 
 be fine with the thumbs.  I should learn that the Riv folks really know 
 their stuff because after owning it for almost a year now I have decided 
 that I really feel a bit cramped around the brake area because of the 
 shifters.  Is it possible to remount the IRD shifters onto the quill shift 
 mount? It seems like it should be possible but I am unsure.  My other 
 option is this...I don't use the front shifter at all. I have the wide low 
 double and am always in the larger chainring.  I could always just mount 
 the right thumb shifter onto the quill and just drop the left one 
 completely. I assume that as long as I leave the derailer there I could 
 just remove that shifter completely.  All of this might free me up to more 
 easily switch to moustache bars later if I want to.


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[RBW] Re: I can't get the shifting dialed in

[Arthur Mayfield]

One thought... Are you sure the little black plastic Dia Compe washer under 
the D ring is mounted correctly (notch in slot)? It's really easy for it to 
slip out when installing the shifter and trying to hold all the pieces in 
place while screwing the bolt in. If the washer isn't in right, the shifter 
will act up, ghost shift, loosen, and generally be a PITA.

On Thursday, July 2, 2015 at 10:59:32 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:

 I'm so frustrated with my drive train. I had Shimano 9 speed bar ends with 
 a front triple. They worked great in index mode. The indexing got finicky 
 so I switched to friction. It worked well for a bit then the ghost 
 shifting started. I switched to Silver bar ends. They feel great but I 
 just can't get them dialed in. I've worked on it it, I took it to my LBS 
 and they tuned it up, but it still doesn't shift right. I had them check 
 for a bent derailer hanger and they said it wasn't. When I shift to the two 
 or three lowest (biggest) cogs, it will not stay on that cog. The problem 
 is worse when I am going from higher to lower gear. If I mess with the 
 shifter it will finally stay in gear, but it's really frustrating, 
 especially when riding lots of rollers. I can't descend a roller and then 
 hit the gear I need for the climb. It always skips out. If I do slight 
 adjustments to the cable tension the best I can do is move the problem from 
 the lowest end of the gears to the middle part. It's driving me crazy! By 
 the way, all of the parts, chain rings, cassette, and chain, are new (they 
 were all bought at the same time and now have around 1500-1700km on them. 
 Any ideas? Please!?!?

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[RBW] Re: Cambium bartape.

[Arthur Mayfield]

According to Brooks, it's been given the same water resistant treatment as 
the saddles, so shouldn't need shellac. I tried it early on, in the natural 
color. I found it to be exceedingly stiff and hard to wrap. It has no 
stretch at all, so edges tend to stand proud of the layer underneath. It's 
also not a bit cush, and its stiffness makes it difficult to wrap over 
any cushioning material. I soon took it off and re-installed my stitched 
elk hide covers over inner tube underwraps, which I love—Doubt I'll stray 
again!

On Monday, July 6, 2015 at 6:50:42 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:

 Anyone have it? Shellaced it? How is it? wallbike.com sells it.


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[RBW] Re: WTB: Used Honey Brooks b67

[Arthur Mayfield]

I have a honey B67 mens version (chrome springs) that's never been ridden. 
Also a B67 aged as well (never ridden). Email me if you're interested.

On Monday, May 4, 2015 at 1:14:29 PM UTC-4, Manuel Acosta wrote:

 Anyone have a used Honet Brooks b67?

 Trying to finishing this tandem, need one to make it looks cool.
 PM open of offers

 Manny


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[RBW] FS: 5-speed SRAM Spectro P5 700C internal hub wheel (Quickbeam? SimpleOne?)

[arthur]

Hi:

I've sold my Quickbeam, which I had set up with this Sram 5-speed internal 
hub gear wheel. I built this wheel with the P5 because the spacing was 
right for the Quickbeam (122mm). The setup worked great. The P5 is a very 
reliable hub, which doesn't seem to have had the problems some other IGH 
have had. The wheel comes with a twist shifter, which I mounted on the end 
of my drop bars with a Hubbub adapter (has a mechanism like a bar-end 
shifter to mount inside the bar end). I can add the Hubbub adapter for 
another 30.

The rim is a 700C Velocity Dyad, built by me with double-butted spokes. The 
wheel has somewhere around 600 miles on it. I'm looking for 180. for the 
wheel and shifter, plus shipping. I can also meet for those in the Seattle 
area.

I can take some photos if you wish, but the wheel and rim look more or less 
the way you might imagine! Please write me off-list if you're interested.

thanks

Art
Tacoma

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for rear derailers?

[Arthur Mayfield]

Ultegra 6500 SS + Ultegra 6500 fd on my Sam. Currently running a 12-25 9spd 
cluster, but have had 13-28 7spd and 11-28 8spd on there before. 46/30 up 
front. NOS Ebay and VO stuff. Riv Silver shifters handle it all.


On Tuesday, April 21, 2015 at 11:34:37 PM UTC-4, Michael Leven wrote:

 I'll start.
 I use a SUNXCD rear derailer with 8-speed cassette and 8-speed chain with 
 Silver Shifters.


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[RBW] Re: Cambium vs. Flyer question

[Arthur Mayfield]

I haven't riden a Flyer, but have a B-67 (sprung), B-68 (same wide saddle 
unsprung), B-17, C-17, and C-17 carved, so I may be able to offer 
something... The coil springs on the Flyer/B-67 are at the rear, so they 
compress only when you are sitting back on the saddle, and they are pretty 
stiff.  I've heard some say that they don't respond at all if you weigh 
less than 180 lbs/82kg, but I think that must come from those who ride with 
little of their weight on their sit bones.  In a more typical road 
position, the Cambium, and especially the Cambium carved, will be as 
flexible or more so than the Flyer ridden the same way.  So you really have 
to analyze the way you ride to choose the best saddle for you, and try them 
out if you can.  That said, wider tires with lower pressure will do more to 
absorb road shock than any saddle.  I used to have my B-67 on a Bianchi 
Milano with 26x1.5 tires.  Now the B-67 hangs on the wall and my Bianchi 
rides much better with a B-68 and 26x1.9 tires at 45psi.  On my Sam, I ride 
a C-17 carved and 650bx38mm tires at 55psi.  If Brooks would come out with 
a wider Cambium, I'd replace the B-68 on my Bianchi—I like the Cambium that 
much!

On Sunday, March 29, 2015 at 11:32:58 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 If you have used both, does the Cambiums flex reduce road shock as nicely 
 as the sprung Flyer does? I hate road shock, It hurts my back. Interested 
 in Cambium though because of its waterproof-ness.

 I asked Brooks if they were going to have a sprung Cambium, and they said 
 no because the flex properties on the Cambium do the job well.
 Wondered if you all think so.
 Thanks for any info.
 I like that it is not affected by rain like the leather.


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[RBW] FS: Phil Wood / Rigida rear wheel, 650B, freewheel

[arthur]

I'm selling the rear wheel from my un-650B converted tourer. Phil Wood 
freewheel hub (130mm OLD), Rigida Sphinx rim (non-offset, which I prefer), 
straight-gauge Wheelsmith spokes, Velox tape, built by me a few years back. 
The hub spins perfectly. The rim has maybe 2K miles, but is good for many 
times that. I can include a nice old Suntour or other freewheel for another 
20. True and strong -- I've had no trouble with this wheel.
200. plus shipping.

thanks

Arthur
Tacoma

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Re: [RBW] Widest fender for 20 wheel?

[arthur]

Anton: 

I ordered these wide SKS fenders from ThorUSA -- custom-made for them, it 
seems?
http://www.thorusa.com/accessories/racks.htm [scroll down page)

The 53mm fenders cover my Big Apples 20x2.0s fine. However, the mounting 
struts aren't great -- they just clip to the fender. I've been thinking of 
ordering some Velo Orange fender struts and mounting them on the SKS 
fenders.. should work fine, and be much stronger.

Arthur

On Thursday, March 12, 2015 at 7:26:06 PM UTC-7, René wrote:

 Thanks for the warning. 

 On Thursday, March 12, 2015, Anton Tutter atu...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Ugh, I would not choose Wald fenders.  Heavy steel, and the ones I've 
 seen begin to rust if left out a lot.  The Hauladay doesn't fold, so 
 disassembly is not a concern.

 Anton


 On Thursday, March 12, 2015 at 10:04:03 PM UTC-4, René wrote:

 BTW, I just did a search and discovered the following:

 Wald Steel fenders. There's a model that seems to be designed for 20 
 wheels, and for tires 2.0/2.125 wide. However, the description is a bit 
 confusing and I want to confirm that they are indeed designed for 20 
 wheels, and not for 20 bikes that would actually have 24 wheels. Amazon 
 and Niagara Cycle sells them. 

 Not sure how easy they would be to pack/unpack if you travel with the BF 
 inside its suitcase, but for folding and putting in the trunk or storing I 
 guess they'd work well if they are indeed designed for 20 wheels. I'll try 
 giving them a call tomorrow.

 René 

 On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 6:46 PM, René Sterental orth...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 I have the same problem with my Bike Friday Pocket Lama and its 2.0 Big 
 Apples. When I purchased it, the salesperson sent me his own fenders since 
 they were out at the time and I was taking my bike to Chicago where it was 
 going to be raining. 

 Unfortunately, those fenders were discontinued (they seemed to be 
 handmade and were designed to fully cover the 2.0 tires) and what BF 
 finally sent me were the Planet Bike fenders that have the issues you 
 describe. They are probably better than nothing, but not an ideal 
 solution. 
 I haven't been able to find anything else, so I'll be very interested in 
 seeing if your experiment works.

 René 

 On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 6:34 PM, Anton Tutter atu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'll be taking delivery of a Bike Friday Hauladay cargo bike shortly 
 and will need to outfit it with fenders.  Here's the deal:  the bike will 
 come stock with 20x1.75 tires.  I will want to immediately upgrade them 
 to 
 20x2.0 Schwalbe Big Apples, or if the frame will fit even larger ones, 
 20x2.125 Schwalbe Big Bens.  The problem is going to be sourcing fenders 
 that fit.  Both Planet Bike and SKS make fenders for 20 wheels, but the 
 widths limit them for use with 1.75 wide tires.  The Planet Bike fenders 
 are 50mm wide (and I have these on another 20 wheeled bike with 20x1.75 
 tires, and it's a very tight fit).  The SKS fenders are 55mm wide.  

 I'm considering trying some VO stainless 60mm fenders for 26 wheels 
 and re-radiusing them for 20 wheels, which will widen them 
 significantly, 
 but I've only ever done this for using 700C fenders on 650B applications, 
 where the delta radius was only about an inch, and it's very easy. But 
 going from 26 to 20 would require a delta radius of around 3! 

 Does anyone know of any wider fenders that will work with 55 and even 
 60mm wide 20 tires?

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[RBW] Re: Shimano Shifters Serviceable ?

[Arthur Mayfield]

I have an almost brand new set of Ultegra 8spd bar end shifters that I'd 
sell you. I used them on my Sam for only a couple of days before deciding I 
didn't care for indexed shifting and preferred the ratios of a 7spd 
cassette I had better anyway.  In fact, I suppose I have a practically new 
8spd cassette to sell too (HG51, 11-30t).  Email me if you might be 
interested and we can set mutually agreable fair terms. 
 ajmayfi...@gmail.com

On Sunday, February 8, 2015 at 5:50:33 PM UTC-5, jandrews_nyc wrote:

 Hi
 I have some 8 speed Shimano Bar-End Shifters that have seen some pretty 
 rough usage.
 They are currently mounted on Paul Thumbies.
 I'd like to re-use them on my fresh S.H. build with Albas however, the 
 rear shifter isn't cooperating.
 I can't really get the unit to switch over into index mode...it's sort of 
 stuck between that and friction.
 As you can see from the photo, the plastic cover is cracked and gives way 
 when the wing nut is twisted.
 Is there a way to completely break these down and rebuild them ..or are 
 they designed to not be serviceable?
 Does anyone know if that plastic cover is replaceable?  I can't find any 
 info about it online.  Would love to not spend $80 or $90 on shifters.


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Pi-MzlV8qfM/VNfoLvnHzGI/AbA/EpPBGGFGeHA/s1600/image1.JPG
 Thanks
 Jason



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[RBW] Re: WTT: 700 x 50 Schwalbe Big Ben for 26 x 2.35 Big Bens

[Arthur Mayfield]

I have a brand new set of Schwalbe Cream Fat Franks (26 x 2.35) that I'd 
like to get rid of (too big for both of my 26 inchers), but I don't need 
your 700's.

On Thursday, December 11, 2014 11:21:29 AM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:

 Just wondering if anyone would like to swap? My set has less than a mile 
 on them. They were installed, ridden around the block and then removed when 
 a bike was sold.


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[RBW] Question on Wheels for a Ramboullet

[Arthur Lewy]

On my Ramb i have had great satisfaction with CR-18s, always handbuilt.  Use 
for commuting, toruing, whatever.  Saves a bit of money.  Nicely compatible 
with 700x30-32 tires.

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[RBW] Re: best tires for fendered rambouillet

[Arthur Lewy]

Green Ramb, SKS fenders, 45mm

700x32 Paselas (actual width 31mm) and 700x32 Marathon Supremes (actual width 
30mm) each provide reasonable clearance.

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[RBW] Re: Quick Swapping of Wald Basket on Front Rack

[Arthur Lewy]

3 leather toeclip straps between basket and rack.

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[RBW] Has anyone gone from drops to Albas and regretted it?

[Arthur Lewy]

Tried albas on my Ramb.  Loved the appearance and the extra brake control.  I 
found myself on the bends most of the time: I think the Ramb tt is on the sort 
side even with a 11 cm stem.  However the breaker and reason I switched back to 
Noodles is that the more upright position resulted in back pain.  The pain went 
away once I put the Noodles back on. 

Art
Seattle

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RE: [RBW] Re: front or rear rack?

[Arthur Lewy]

I know your desire to not have more than one rack.  I use a Mark's in front and 
R-14 in back.  Mostly there is a Wald medium in front that carries a Shopsack, 
occasionally my Carradice Barley strapped onto the basket in front, or a rando 
bag without basket.  The back usually sports an S'ville medium, but 
occasionally has the Carradice or smaller saddlebag.  Lots of options, little 
discernible disadvantage to using 2 modest-sized racks, and the racks make for 
nice bling.   Also get to make use of all the fork and seats that fittings.  
Good luck!

Art Lewy
Seattle

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[RBW] 700 x 32 tire recommendation, please...

[arthur strum]

Ok, a little topic drift here, but..

Jim Thill wrote (very knowledgeably):

 700x32 performance tires are mostly in the cyclocross knobby category. 
 Bigger than 700x32 is mostly relegated to the flat-proof heavy-duty and/or 
 cheap category among major tire manufacturers. The Paselas in the bigger 
 sizes, the Kojak in 700x35, and the JB Green are good quality decently 
 lightweight exceptions. The Marathon Supreme is the balance that works for
 me most of the time. They're weight-competitive with Paselas but much 
 tougher and longer lasting.
Just wanted to note some other 'bigger than 700x32s' which are pretty light for 
their size. Of course the list starts with the sometimes rare 700x37 Pasela. 
But there are two more: I'm going to try both out, since I'm looking for a 
supple, comfortable, fast 700x40 comparable to the Grand Bois Hetre (584x 42).
- there's the new Marathon Racer (HS429) Evolution Line tire in 700 by 
40mm, which weighs only 435 grams.
- and there's the Vittoria Voyager Hyper in 700x40, which weighs 440 
grams. (I haven't verified either weight)

I'm really hoping I like these even more than the 700x37 Paselas, because I'm 
converting a bike back to 700c (to put long cranks on it) and trying to find 
something like a Hetre!

Art
Tacoma

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[RBW] Re: Anbody try a 650b Ram with Hetres

[arthur strum]

I ran Hetres for two years on my 68cm Redwood -- functionally identical to the 
Ram. It worked great. The bb height was fine with 175s, and there was lots of 
room for fenders, plenty of room in the fork and between the chainstays. I 
don't have the bike anymore for other reasons, but it worked fine.

best

Art


On Oct 31, 2012, at 12:13 PM, rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 
 Hi Toshi,
  
 I just tested the fit of my Bleriot's Hetres on my Ram and they fit just 
 fine, with room for fenders. The resulting bottom bracket height is 
 ~260mm. My Hetres on Synergy rims measure ~670mm in diameter. The new 
 brake reach for 650b wheels is ~72mm-74mm on the Ram, so I think Paul 
 Racers would be out (max reach is 67mm), but I think the Diacompe Mod 750 
 brakes would work. 
  
 hope this helps some,
 -Jay B. 

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[RBW] Complaints about bad roads

[arthur strum]

On Aug 5, 2012, at 4:05 PM, rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com Aug 05 01:16PM -0700  
 
  What tire pressure are they using?
  
 That's my guess, that they were inflating their tires too much. But
 the bizarre thing is that my suggestions that they reduce their tire
 pressure went unheeded. They imagined that they would go faster with
 harder tires, though I think that's incorrect on roads that are bumpy.
 Perhaps harder tires really are faster on chipseal than softer tires,
 and I guess that's a tradeoff that they were willing to make. On my
 touring bike, I couldn't tell the difference between chipseal and the
 world's smoothest road.
  
 -- 
Interesting exchange about tire pressure, but I wonder if it's not at least 
partly your bike. Grant P. seems to design very, very comfortable bikes. (I've 
had a 68cm Redwood and still own a Quickbeam) I say that even though I'm not a 
fan of Rivendell front end geometry -- I prefer the lower-trail front end of my 
old English tourer. But  -- what is it? The chainstays? seatstays? and of 
course partly just the way the bikes fit. I'm not sure. I just wonder if it 
isn't partly your bike itself, compared to the Co-Motion/Surly offerings? (even 
though the LHT seems to be an imitation of the Atlantis, and many people find 
them comfortable on tour)

Art
Tacoma

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[RBW] Re: Attaching a basket to the front rack idea

[Arthur Lewy]

Three leather toe clip straps do the job for me.  Pretty easy to
remove and put back on.

On Jan 19, 3:43 pm, TSW tsesun...@gmail.com wrote:
 All,
 I love the basket on the front of my AHH with drop bars.  But want it
 easily removed and remounted which is hard with zip ties.

 So, in case no one's mentioned this already, I got some velcro straps,
 like this:

 http://www.staples.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Straps-Assorted-5-Pack/p...

 and use them on the basket, like this:

 http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/21102535_GvRgbk

 Works great- tight.

 Tse-Sung
 Berkeley CA

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[RBW] Large Bicycles Google group invitation

[arthur strum]

As I mentioned in another thread, I've started a Google group for discussion of 
large bike frames. I've posted a preliminary FAQ below. Rather than 'stealing' 
the tall people from this group, or the BOB list, or other lists, it just seems 
to me that it would be useful to have a place for discussions specific to tall 
frames -- rather than always having to qualify one's contributions by saying, 
'but I'm 6'6 and ride a 68cm bike, so YMMV,' or having to extrapolate 
discussions about 'normal' sized frames to the very large ones we ride. 

I started a thread on large frames, shimmy, low-trail, and standard gauge 
tubing -- would love to hear what others have to say

Art

http://groups.google.com/group/large-bicycles

FAQ: This group is for discussion of 
all aspects of large bicycles -- availability, geometry, tubing, 
history, etc. As those of use who ride bikes with seat tubes over 66cm 
know (or who are over 6'4 or so), there are many problems specific to 
large bikes -- among them are too-steep seat tubes, too-short 
chainstays which position the rider over the rear wheel, too-short top 
tubes, the tendency for large frames to shimmy. Some of us have been 
discussing these things on other lists like the BOB list or the 
Rivendell list for years. I'm hoping that this list can facilitate 
such discussions, and perhaps even give us a more effective way to 
line up support for small manufacturers who decide to make larger 
frames. 

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[RBW] FS: Carradice Bike Bureau and Filson briefcase

[arthur strum]

I've used this Carradice bike bureau bag and on for a year since buying it from 
listmember Beth H.. It's a great bag, but I'm simplifying my bag collection and 
don't need it. The canvas and leather show no appreciable wear, but the 
aluminium rod on which the rack attachments mount is slightly bent -- doesn't 
affect function, and it could probably be replace if you're picky. This bag is 
the one with the honey leather straps (the bag is black waxed cotton). Includes 
laptop sleeve. 70. shipped to CONUS. 

If anyone's interested, I'm also selling a nearly new Filson Original Briefcase 
-- this is hardly used. 150. shipped to CONUS. 

thanks

Art
Tacoma

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[RBW] 650b Rambouillet

[arthur strum]

If I recall correctly the Rambo is not a could candidate for a 650b  
conversion becuase it has low bottom bracket to start with. Someone  
let me know if this is not true.


Larry Powers

[lots of replies, mostly that it's not possible, or not desirable...]

Larry:

I did this with my 68cm Redwood (functionally identical to the  
Rambouillet), because I found that 40-42 mm Hetres would fit. This  
makes the drop equivalent to a 21-23 mm tire -- not that different  
from the 28mm tire around which the Ram was built. I also ride 175mm  
cranks on this bike, and sometimes pedal through corners. Not a big  
deal, no problems with pedal strike. I did the conversion because 32mm  
tires with fenders simply aren't big enough for my 190lbs and  
commuting load and the terrible, terrible streets here. The Hetres  
make a huge difference. I also find that  I like the handling of the  
bike better with these much wider tires, and that it's more  
comfortable, although the bike is so comfortable with narrower tires  
to begin with that for this reason alone the change wasn't necessary.  
There's also a lot more fender clearance with the Hetres on this bike  
-- I kept having to readjust my anonymous old Japanese metal fenders  
when I was running 700C/32s.


So I think the change might be quite helpful for anyone who needs much  
wider tires, and probably not necessary for others. It just depends on  
your weight and local road conditions.


One caveat: I do find that the greater diameter of 700C/37mm Paselas  
causes them to handle gaps in the pavement and potholes (the ones one  
can't avoid) better than the 650Bs, even with Hetres - this even while  
the Hetres are otherwise more comfortable. (I say I find.. because  
this is simply an impression -- others undoubtedly have other  
impressions) Somehow the larger diameter wheels feel more proportional  
to me, at 6'6/190, and to the height of my bike.


Art
Tacoma


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[RBW] re: panniers

[arthur strum]

Nicole wrote:


 I'm debating between a Nigel Smythe Big Box and the as-of-yet-unseen
 panniers, but another consideration is that I don't have an office
 (and probably wont for at least another year and a half), and so my
 bike ends up being locked up outside all over Berkeley and Oakland
 cafes for hours at a time. That's led me to look for some easily
 detachable setup that turns into a messenger bag when I need to unload
 the bike, something like these from Basil:

 (The Weekender) http://www.seattlebikesupply.com/item/145054
 (The Messenger) http://www.seattlebikesupply.com/catalog/bags-packs/ 
 messenger

 I'm still hoping for the Rivendell holy grail before I decide to try
 out the Basil, though.

 - Nicole


Nicole:
I seem to have gone through a similar thought process. For a long  
time, I used Ortlieb panniers to commute to work, but it was  
inconvenient to transfer the contents to a bag I could use at work  
(which involves going from classroom to classroom). Now I'm using a  
Carradice saddlebag (Riv's offerings would work well, too) with a  
quick release (read about it here (ingenious!): http:// 
www.cyclofiend.com/working/2009/wbph001-andreball0909.html -- this  
bag carries my lunch and clothes. The other part of my solution is a  
wide front rack with a Carradice Bike Bureau attached to it with the  
clips which usually fit on the rear rack rails. And perhaps a bungee  
over the top. I say 'solution' but this isn't implemented yet,  
because I still need the wide front rack to make it work. But when I  
have the rack, I'll have two quick-releasable bags, and one which  
looks just like a handsome school satchel. (note that the new Bike  
Bureaus are *much* better looking than what you see online, because  
they're using honey leather straps again) Alex Wetmore, who hosts the  
BOB list and many others, gave me the idea for the front setup. He  
uses a messenger bag.

Art
Tacoma

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[RBW] FS: Baggins Adam

[arthur strum]

RBWers:

I have a not-very heavily used Baggins Adam saddlebag for sale. (used  
probably less than 20 times, but a couple of times in rain, so it's  
got the usual stains) One repair: I redrilled the holes in the stick/ 
stiffener.

It's a great bag, but I'm using something else now.

95. shipped to CONUS

Art Strum
Tacoma where the Saxon warred with the Dane and they mixed their  
blood WA

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[RBW] Re: Outer ring on Rambouillet

[Arthur Lewy]

I use an XD double with 46/34 tooth rings and an old Sun Tour Cyclone  
front dérailleur (with a 107 mm BB) on my Ramb and it  shifts very  
well.

Art Lewy

On Sep 1, 2009, at 8:23 AM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:


 So I'm currently running my Rambouillet with a double crankset (50/34)
 and an 8 speed cassette (11-28). I really have to admit that I just
 don't find pushing the 50 outer ring to be that enjoyable. I'm
 thinking of going to a 46. I'm using an FSA compact derailer. Will
 this combo work? Would I be better off going with a 48 outer
 chainring? My Hilsen has a 46 outer ring and I really like that. I
 guess I'm just curious if it'll shift okay. Right now I have DT
 shifters (Silver) and will probably go back to bar-end for the
 winter.

 Thanks,
 mike


 

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[RBW] Re: Shoe recommendations for pedaling free.

[Arthur Lewy]

I have been very happy with my Keen sandals, wool sox and Grip Kings.   
We have had an extended dry spell in Seattle, so I don't yet have  
experience in the rain.

Art Lewy

On Jul 29, 2009, at 8:19 PM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:


 So I'm thinking I'll use my Grip King pedals for my upcoming tour. I'm
 curious what people like for pedaling free. I went bike camping last
 night, 120 miles roundtrip so I got a good idea about if this will
 work. For the most part the shoes I'm using now, old style Vans, are
 fine although I did develop a bit of a hot spot. I'm thinking a new
 pair of shoes will rectify the situation and I may just go with Vans
 again but I'm curious what others are using.

 Also, I did the ride in MUSA shorts and an REI SS button front shirt
 and this also worked well. I just don't see the need or sense of
 riding in bibs and clipless pedals for this tour.

 Thanks,
 mike
 

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[RBW] TOPIC: Now: 30mm tire availability was: Ruffy Tuffy tire problems

[arthur strum]

David Estes asked:

 Bruce, are those miles on/off road or road only?

 I'm looking for 30mm tire that is good for both and doesn't  
 disintegrate in
 my garage or puncture every 10 miles.  Probably should stick w/  
 Paselas, but
 I want just a bit more volume than 28mm, and 32/33mm tires are just  
 too
 close... 30mm is the sweet spot!


David: I have Schwalbe Marathon Racers on one bike which are *great*:  
very supple sidewalls, but also tough. They did well on the BQ roll- 
down tests. These are marked 700x35 but are actually about 31 on my  
MA-2 rim. (note that these have nothing to do with much tougher and  
heavier Marathons of other varieties)

Art
Tacoma

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