[Repeater-Builder] ID old Regency PA board.

[n3dab]

Just discovered that this additional board may have been lifted from a Regency 
ACH100 or AASCH100 PA, if anyone has the documentation on one of those PA's.

Doug  N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] ID old Regency PA board.

[n3dab]

I have an old Regency ACU45A UHF 450-470 RF PA that appears to be  modified 
with an additional PA board.  The original 45W PA board is marked "Regency" and 
"604-143 Rev L", all the component part numbers are marked on the board as 
well.  The additioal board appears to be of Regency/Wilson/Rhelm manufacture 
but has only 2 markings on it, "MC 3881" in ink and "604-149 F" in solder.  
This board has 5 ajustable air capacitors, a e/m relay, 2 Motoloa 9236 
transisters along with afew other small components.  The ACU45A  is nominally a 
45W PA, however the extra board kicks the output to over 100W.  The PA is 
currently functional and tuned in the 440 band. 

Can anyone provide me with any info or a schematic of this additional board ?  

Doug N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Best coax for marine use

[n3dab]

I would Suggest looking at either aandrew FSJx-50 or LMR 3/8" or 1/2" heliax 
type cable (100% solid shield) and if available a direct burial or underground 
type jacket for additional water infiltration protection.  Go the the home 
pages or either mfg. to get full specs and min. bend radius.

Doug  N3DAB   

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Vernon Densler"  wrote:
>
> I have been in a big discussion with the guys on my boat list about the
> right coax for running up the mast for VHF marine radio.
> 
>  
> 
> Keeping in mind that we are talking about a 70' or so run going up the
> center of an aluminum mast, in a salt water environment, and the radio is
> limited to 25 watts.  
> 
> Also keep in mind that when off shore this is a life line and the best
> possible send and receive is needed in an emergency situation.  
> 
>  
> 
> So given the criteria what is the best possible coax to use knowing that
> thickness matters and bend radiuses may be tight?  Others on the list are
> saying "just grab any old 8X type cable and you will be fine".  I say use
> something with very low loss and suggested small heliax.
> 
>  
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
>  
> 
> Vern
> 
> s/v Nirvelli
> 
> KI4ONW
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need wacom duplexer mod info

[n3dab]

I googled WACOM 604 duplexer and came up with a bunch of info., you might try 
the same.  I found a 2 page WACOM 604 flyer with the specs says the A,B and C 
cans are 80" tall, and the D can is 72" tall.  Logic would say shorten the 
inner rod 8", but loop size might be smaller and the harness cables may be 
different length as well.  LOL on your project.  Hope some one else has more 
info to help you out.

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "ag4uw"  wrote:
>
> Hello group!!  I am looking for someone that has info on mods for the wacom 
> 604B duplexers to put them in the ham band 604D. And does anyone know how to 
> remove the the tuning rod from the wacom duplexers??? Does the big nut on the 
> top unscrew or can it be removed???  I am looking for info but have not been 
> able to find anything on doing this mod. If I can remove the copper rod from 
> the can I was going to try to cut it shorter,(If you know how long the tuning 
> rod is on the D model please let me know. It can not be cut off from the end 
> because it has finger stock on that end and will have to be cut off at the 
> top. If anyone has any info please let me know. if you have the info on how 
> long to cut the tunning rod off are know how long the tuning rod is on the 
> 604D  or have any info on how to remove the rod please let me know. any info 
> you may have would be great.   Thanks Freddy  N4XW
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Announcements from a PC...

[n3dab]

Don't know if you have Googled for any thing specific to your wants, but you 
might try this website and or contact Peter the author to see if any of his 
programs migh do the trick or possibly get a referral from him.  Try 
http://www.echoaddons.com/   LOL Maybe some one who works with the Handi capped 
9Speech impaired ) might be able to help also.  Just my thoughts. never hurts 
to think out of the box. 

Doug   N3DAB 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mark"  wrote:
>
> Dave, Randy, and all.
> 
>  
> 
> I know it's been a while since I first responded about this.  It has taken
> me a while to reach out for the originator of the program, and he in turn
> referred me to the user of it.
> 
>  
> 
> To sum it up, I am not able to offer it.  The writer was all for it, but
> because of his work obligations, he cannot support it in any way, shape or
> form.  He didn't have the code anymore and thus referred me to the user.  I
> reached out for him and was also rebuffed.  He wanted no part of it at all.
> 
>  
> 
> If things change in the future I can revisit this, but for now I apologize
> that I cannot be of any further assistance.  Sorry all.
> 
>  
> 
> Mark - N9WYS
> 
>  
> 
> From: David Murman 
> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 8:01 PM
> To: Mark
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Announcements from a PC...
> 
>  
> 
> Mark, I would like that info also and how they hooked it up to the
> controller. I maintain the KLUB repeaters here in Plano and definitely
> interested.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> David
> 
> WA4ECM
> 
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com  On Behalf Of Mark
> Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 8:35 AM
> 
> Randy,
> 
> One of the local clubs here runs a program that makes text-to-voice
> announcements, like capturing NWS bulletins and converting them to speech
> for the 2m repeater. They call the program "M-5" and it was written by
> another ham who has since moved to Galena, IL.
> 
> If this might be what you are interested in, I can contact both the guy who
> wrote the program and the guy who is employing it and see what they have...
> 
> Mark - N9WYS
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: ki4zji
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com> 
> Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 4:19 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Announcements from a PC...
> 
> Does anyone know of any software that would allow scheduled 
> announcements (either recorded voice or synthesized) through a 
> soundcard interface and remote radio?
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing

[n3dab]

Can't argue with you there ,but then he (you) would have to go into the radios 
to split out the Tx and Rx from the single connector on the chassis. I didn't 
think he was in to rebuilding the radios or spending alot of money.  

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025"  wrote:
>
> 
> 
> You could combine two close spaced transmitters using a 
> hybrid and the right combination will work through one 
> duplexer.  Just throwing out one method... 
> 
> s.  
> 
> > "n3dab"  wrote:
> >
> > It would be interesting to hear how you would connect TWO 2Mtr. radios 
> > (assuming a standard .600khz split and a single antenna connector on each) 
> > thru a duplexer(s) to a single feed line and antenna.  What type 
> > duplexer(s) are you suggesting ?  Have you done this before ?  Just 
> > curious. 
> > 
> > Doug  N3DAB 
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Robinson  wrote:
> > >
> > > under the description you give you can put them on top of each other
> > > separated by a 1/2 wave or better without any real problems. if you are 
> > > only
> > > going  to transmit on one at a time then you wont have any reall issues.
> > >  You will be able to run up to about 25 W without any problems that I can
> > > think of.
> > >  I run a couple radios here at home and have the antennas relative close 
> > > and
> > > only have problems when i kick up over 25W and then it is just some noise
> > > but nothing strong enough to kill the receive on the other rig.
> > > 
> > >  You can still use a duplexer and run two rigs to same antenna without any
> > > problems as well. then you would only have the one coax to worry about
> > > really. tends to make things cleaner looking on the install too!
> > > 
> > > On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 9:48 PM, Jeremy (KB1REQ)  wrote:
> > > 
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > The icom runs a max of about 65 watts but almost always less, more like 
> > > > 5
> > > > or 10. The antenna I hope to set up is a mobile 5/8 waxe over a
> > > > ground-plane. My purpose is for skywarn activations, as an NCO it would 
> > > > help
> > > > to be active one two frequencies nearly simultainously.
> > > > Any further help is appriceated.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In 
> > > > Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com,
> > > > "Eric Lemmon"  wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeremy,
> > > > >
> > > > > You did not provide enough information to give you a good answer. How 
> > > > > far
> > > > > apart are the frequencies involved? How powerful is the other radio?
> > > > >
> > > > > What I can tell you right away is that vertical separation is far, 
> > > > > far,
> > > > more
> > > > > effective than horizontal separation. If both radios are going to be
> > > > > frequency-agile, that is, there may not always be a fixed separation 
> > > > > in
> > > > > frequency, then the simple answer is: Separate the two antennas
> > > > vertically
> > > > > as much as you can, one over the other, and hope for the best. Use
> > > > > double-shielded cable for feedlines on both antennas.
> > > > >
> > > > > Damage to the receivers is not likely, since most good radios have 
> > > > > diode
> > > > > protection on the front ends. After all, look at almost any "mobile
> > > > command
> > > > > post" vehicle, and you'll probably see a dozen antennas on the roof-
> > > > usually
> > > > > no more than a foot or so apart. Although major desense is almost
> > > > > guaranteed when any one of the radios transmits, judicious use of
> > > > > preselectors (such as those made by DCI) can minimize it.
> > > > >
> > > > > -Original Message-
> > > > > From: 
> > > > > Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com]
> > > > On Behalf Of Jeremy (KB1REQ)
> > > > > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:24 PM
> > > > > To: 
> > > > > Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna spacing
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > This post does not necessarily relate to repeaters, but some of the 
> > > > > same
> > > > > calculations can be applied. I am interested in installing another two
> > > > meter
> > > > > radio in my shack and was wondering what kind of spacing is needed as 
> > > > > to
> > > > not
> > > > > over load either of the radio's receivers. I currently have an icom 
> > > > > set
> > > > up
> > > > > on a j-pole, and I have a 45 watt GM300 that I want to add. What 
> > > > > would be
> > > > > the best placement of antennas to reduce desense. or otherwise damage 
> > > > > the
> > > > > receivers?
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >  
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing

[n3dab]

I agree that simplex freq's. on each radio would work, in which a simple notch 
type duplexer or filter cavity would probably surfice.  But i got the 
impression that the original poster was referring to duplex mode on the radios 
which complicates things a bit with the hardware.  I don't see any problem with 
using 2 feedline and 2 antennas stacked or side by side with a little 
separation between the m as long as he isn't talking on both radios 
simultaneously. 

Doug   N3DAB  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Curtis"  wrote:
>
> Probably referring to using a duplexer (certainly NOT a diplexer) to connect
> 2 simplex frequency'd 2m transceivers to a single antenna.
> ?
> 
> Commonly done
> 
> Chris
> Kb0wlf
> 
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
> > buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 12:09 PM
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing
> > 
> > It would be interesting to hear how you would connect TWO 2Mtr. radios
> > (assuming a standard .600khz split and a single antenna connector on
> > each) thru a duplexer(s) to a single feed line and antenna.  What type
> > duplexer(s) are you suggesting ?  Have you done this before ?  Just
> > curious.
> > 
> > Doug  N3DAB
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Robinson 
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > under the description you give you can put them on top of each other
> > > separated by a 1/2 wave or better without any real problems. if you
> > are only
> > > going  to transmit on one at a time then you wont have any reall
> > issues.
> > >  You will be able to run up to about 25 W without any problems that I
> > can
> > > think of.
> > >  I run a couple radios here at home and have the antennas relative
> > close and
> > > only have problems when i kick up over 25W and then it is just some
> > noise
> > > but nothing strong enough to kill the receive on the other rig.
> > >
> > >  You can still use a duplexer and run two rigs to same antenna
> > without any
> > > problems as well. then you would only have the one coax to worry
> > about
> > > really. tends to make things cleaner looking on the install too!
> > >
> > > On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 9:48 PM, Jeremy (KB1REQ)  wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > The icom runs a max of about 65 watts but almost always less, more
> > like 5
> > > > or 10. The antenna I hope to set up is a mobile 5/8 waxe over a
> > > > ground-plane. My purpose is for skywarn activations, as an NCO it
> > would help
> > > > to be active one two frequencies nearly simultainously.
> > > > Any further help is appriceated.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Builder%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > "Eric Lemmon"  wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeremy,
> > > > >
> > > > > You did not provide enough information to give you a good answer.
> > How far
> > > > > apart are the frequencies involved? How powerful is the other
> > radio?
> > > > >
> > > > > What I can tell you right away is that vertical separation is
> > far, far,
> > > > more
> > > > > effective than horizontal separation. If both radios are going to
> > be
> > > > > frequency-agile, that is, there may not always be a fixed
> > separation in
> > > > > frequency, then the simple answer is: Separate the two antennas
> > > > vertically
> > > > > as much as you can, one over the other, and hope for the best.
> > Use
> > > > > double-shielded cable for feedlines on both antennas.
> > > > >
> > > > > Damage to the receivers is not likely, since most good radios
> > have diode
> > > > > protection on the front ends. After all, look at almost any
> > "mobile
> > > > command
> > > > > post" vehicle, and you'll probably see a dozen antennas on the
> > roof-
> > > > usually
> > > > > no more than a foot or so apart. Although major desense is almost
> > > > > guaranteed when any one of the radios transmits, judicious use of
> > > > > preselectors (such as those made by DCI) can minimi

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing

[n3dab]

It would be interesting to hear how you would connect TWO 2Mtr. radios 
(assuming a standard .600khz split and a single antenna connector on each) thru 
a duplexer(s) to a single feed line and antenna.  What type duplexer(s) are you 
suggesting ?  Have you done this before ?  Just curious. 

Doug  N3DAB 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Robinson  wrote:
>
> under the description you give you can put them on top of each other
> separated by a 1/2 wave or better without any real problems. if you are only
> going  to transmit on one at a time then you wont have any reall issues.
>  You will be able to run up to about 25 W without any problems that I can
> think of.
>  I run a couple radios here at home and have the antennas relative close and
> only have problems when i kick up over 25W and then it is just some noise
> but nothing strong enough to kill the receive on the other rig.
> 
>  You can still use a duplexer and run two rigs to same antenna without any
> problems as well. then you would only have the one coax to worry about
> really. tends to make things cleaner looking on the install too!
> 
> On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 9:48 PM, Jeremy (KB1REQ)  wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > The icom runs a max of about 65 watts but almost always less, more like 5
> > or 10. The antenna I hope to set up is a mobile 5/8 waxe over a
> > ground-plane. My purpose is for skywarn activations, as an NCO it would help
> > to be active one two frequencies nearly simultainously.
> > Any further help is appriceated.
> >
> >
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com,
> > "Eric Lemmon"  wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeremy,
> > >
> > > You did not provide enough information to give you a good answer. How far
> > > apart are the frequencies involved? How powerful is the other radio?
> > >
> > > What I can tell you right away is that vertical separation is far, far,
> > more
> > > effective than horizontal separation. If both radios are going to be
> > > frequency-agile, that is, there may not always be a fixed separation in
> > > frequency, then the simple answer is: Separate the two antennas
> > vertically
> > > as much as you can, one over the other, and hope for the best. Use
> > > double-shielded cable for feedlines on both antennas.
> > >
> > > Damage to the receivers is not likely, since most good radios have diode
> > > protection on the front ends. After all, look at almost any "mobile
> > command
> > > post" vehicle, and you'll probably see a dozen antennas on the roof-
> > usually
> > > no more than a foot or so apart. Although major desense is almost
> > > guaranteed when any one of the radios transmits, judicious use of
> > > preselectors (such as those made by DCI) can minimize it.
> > >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Jeremy (KB1REQ)
> > > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:24 PM
> > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna spacing
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > This post does not necessarily relate to repeaters, but some of the same
> > > calculations can be applied. I am interested in installing another two
> > meter
> > > radio in my shack and was wondering what kind of spacing is needed as to
> > not
> > > over load either of the radio's receivers. I currently have an icom set
> > up
> > > on a j-pole, and I have a 45 watt GM300 that I want to add. What would be
> > > the best placement of antennas to reduce desense. or otherwise damage the
> > > receivers?
> > >
> >
> >  
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing

[n3dab]

Where are your antennas going to be placed ??   On a tower , on pole mast, on 
the roof, other ???  If i were going to mount 2 mobile antennas on a tower or 
pole i would try to fabricate an aluminum plate groung plane and mount one 
antenna on the top side and one one the bottom side  then jury rig a aluminum 
support structure to mount it to the tower.  Home Depot or lowes is a good 
source for aluminum angle,tube and sheet, but there are other sources as well.  
A little injunuity and imagination will get the job down.  I'll send a photo of 
one of the mounts i built for antennas on my roof that i use for digi-peaters. 
along with some other suggestions.   Doug  N3DAB 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy (KB1REQ)"  wrote:
>
> 
> The icom runs a max of about 65 watts but almost always less, more like 5 or 
> 10.  The antenna I hope to set up is a mobile 5/8 waxe over a ground-plane. 
> My purpose is for skywarn activations, as an NCO it would help to be active 
> one two frequencies nearly simultainously.
> Any further help is appriceated.
> 
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon"  wrote:
> >
> > Jeremy,
> > 
> > You did not provide enough information to give you a good answer.  How far
> > apart are the frequencies involved?  How powerful is the other radio?
> > 
> > What I can tell you right away is that vertical separation is far, far, more
> > effective than horizontal separation.  If both radios are going to be
> > frequency-agile, that is, there may not always be a fixed separation in
> > frequency, then the simple answer is:  Separate the two antennas vertically
> > as much as you can, one over the other, and hope for the best.  Use
> > double-shielded cable for feedlines on both antennas.
> > 
> > Damage to the receivers is not likely, since most good radios have diode
> > protection on the front ends.  After all, look at almost any "mobile command
> > post" vehicle, and you'll probably see a dozen antennas on the roof- usually
> > no more than a foot or so apart.  Although major desense is almost
> > guaranteed when any one of the radios transmits, judicious use of
> > preselectors (such as those made by DCI) can minimize it.
> > 
> > -Original Message- 
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy (KB1REQ)
> > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:24 PM
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna spacing
> > 
> >   
> > 
> > This post does not necessarily relate to repeaters, but some of the same
> > calculations can be applied. I am interested in installing another two meter
> > radio in my shack and was wondering what kind of spacing is needed as to not
> > over load either of the radio's receivers. I currently have an icom set up
> > on a j-pole, and I have a 45 watt GM300 that I want to add.  What would be
> > the best placement of antennas to reduce desense. or otherwise damage the
> > receivers?
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Cleaning coax corrosion

[n3dab]

Since you have to diconnect it at the antenna end (the almost unreachable place 
) and it is not for a repeater, why not just cut it back to where it is 
convenient to work on it (preferably indoors and weather protected) and provide 
a new piece of cable as a jumper to the antenna.  If you cut the old cable back 
far enough from the exposed end you should be able to get to clean braid and 
center conductor, and insert ing a barrel connector wont degrade your signal 
enough to worry about.   

Doug N3DAB   

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John  wrote:
>
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I need to replace a PL-259 on the end of a piece of RG-8U at the antenna 
> end. The coax shielding is severely corroded, I can cut back aways and 
> still reach but I need to clean the shielding so I can solder on a new 
> connector. Any suggestion to do this.
> This is on the roof of a building and the coax is routed around the 
> rampart to the antenna mount and almost impossible to replace.
> Before the "cable cops" jump on me it's not for repeater service.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John
> 
> -- 
> John Mc Hugh, K4AG
> Coordinator for Amateur Radio  
> National Hurricane Center, WX4NHC
> Home page:- http://www.wx4nhc.org
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: DB dual band antenna

[n3dab]

Hi again Curt,

>From what you say your overall, top outside to bottom outside - Not C to C, 
>dipole measurement would be about 11-9/16" or 11-5/8" if you add the 3/16" x 2 
>for the half diameter of the 3/8" alum tube.  I'm also assuming that you 
>pulled a tape or measure across the center support tube and in doing so picked 
>about a 1/16" because you weren't measuring a true flat plane. If the out to 
>out dimension is about 11-9/16" you may have one of the original 440-450 set 
>of dipoles on the UHF portion.  I don't know when DB discontinued making them 
>in the Ham/ Mobile Phone band but maybe someone else does. 

The same would hold true for the VHF diploes, 35", - 1/16" for measure 
correction, + 3/16" x 2 would equal about 35-5/16" overall which puts it in the 
140 to 150 range.  

Looks like you have a winner for 2/440 Ham operation with each half giving you 
about 6 DB gain and Omnidirectional pattern.  I'll send you some info on the 
measurements  direct in a few minutes.

Doug   N3DAB  



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Curt Seaton  wrote:
>
> Good day again, Doug,  I will not be able to measure the SWR for a few 
> weeks as it is raining now and I will be out of town for a couple of 
> weeks, but I did measure the dipoles.   Here is what I measured.   The 
> two meter dipoles are 35 inches centerline to centerline top to bottom 
> per dipole, with the spacing between the bottom of the top dipole to the 
> top of the bottom dipole being 31 inches.  The 440 dipoles are 11.25 CL 
> to CL and the spacing between the top dipole and the third dipole 
> directly under it is 38 inches.  Remember the 440 is two dipoles at the 
> top of the pole, the second pair of dipoles is rotated 90 degrees with 
> respect to the top pair, then the third pair is directly under the first 
> pair and the fourth pair is directly under pair number 2.   Hope this 
> helps in identifying your antenna.  I will forward you the swr plots 
> when I return and can set up to do so.  I will also take photos...  
> 
> Regards
> 
> Curt
> 
> n3dab wrote:
> > Hi Curt,
> >
> > Yes, that is the way I recall seeing the Dual Band antenna in the old DB 
> > products catalog.  Have you tried checking the upper and lower halves to 
> > see what kind of SWR you have at the operating freq. ??  If it is convient, 
> > measure the end to end length of the upper and lower dipoles.  The UHF 
> > diploes should be about 11-3/16" for the 450-470 MHz.  The VHF dipoles 
> > should be 37" for 138-150 or 34-3/16" for  150-160 MHz.  155-165 MHz is 
> > 33-3/4" and 164-174 MHz is 31-3/4".
> >
> > For some reason the UHF 450 -470 versions are very broad banded but the VHF 
> > versions seem to be more critical pobably due to the harness construction 
> > more then the dipole length.
> >
> > Thanks for the input.
> >
> > Doug   N3DAB
> >
> > =
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Curt Seaton  wrote:
> >   
> >> Good day Doug.  I have a DB dual band antenna similar to what you are 
> >> describing, it has 4 folded dipoles for two meters, and 8 folded dipoles 
> >> for 440.  These are two on each side of the pipe for two meters and four 
> >> on each side of the pipe for 440.  The diameter of the pipe is slightly 
> >> smaller for the 440 section.  The exact model number is not readable 
> >> (scraped during mounting or dismounting) but it sounds like what you are 
> >> looking for.  IF this is the same as you desire, mine does have TWO 
> >> different feed lines coming down to connect to your VHF and UHF radio 
> >> systems.  The pipes are concentric with a wedge shaped mount and held in 
> >> final position with gravity and hose clamps.  Keep us all posted on your 
> >> endeavors as we are looking for the same scenario for D star here 
> >> starting with the B module and adding C later... gotta recover 
> >> financially first...
> >>
> >> 73
> >>
> >> Curt
> >> W1FSM
> >>
> >> n3dab wrote:
> >> 
> >>> I know DB made a dual band 150/450 folded dipole antenna (bottom half was 
> >>> either a DB-222 or the bottom half of a DB-304 and the top half was a 
> >>> DB408 or top half of a DB-420), which is no longer available.  Does 
> >>> anyone recall whether it was fed with one feed line or two ?  I think it 
> >>> was 2 but, I can't recall the dipo

[Repeater-Builder] Re: DB dual band antenna

[n3dab]

Hi Curt,

Yes, that is the way I recall seeing the Dual Band antenna in the old DB 
products catalog.  Have you tried checking the upper and lower halves to see 
what kind of SWR you have at the operating freq. ??  If it is convient, measure 
the end to end length of the upper and lower dipoles.  The UHF diploes should 
be about 11-3/16" for the 450-470 MHz.  The VHF dipoles should be 37" for 
138-150 or 34-3/16" for  150-160 MHz.  155-165 MHz is 33-3/4" and 164-174 MHz 
is 31-3/4".

For some reason the UHF 450 -470 versions are very broad banded but the VHF 
versions seem to be more critical pobably due to the harness construction more 
then the dipole length.

Thanks for the input.

Doug   N3DAB

=
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Curt Seaton  wrote:
>
> Good day Doug.  I have a DB dual band antenna similar to what you are 
> describing, it has 4 folded dipoles for two meters, and 8 folded dipoles 
> for 440.  These are two on each side of the pipe for two meters and four 
> on each side of the pipe for 440.  The diameter of the pipe is slightly 
> smaller for the 440 section.  The exact model number is not readable 
> (scraped during mounting or dismounting) but it sounds like what you are 
> looking for.  IF this is the same as you desire, mine does have TWO 
> different feed lines coming down to connect to your VHF and UHF radio 
> systems.  The pipes are concentric with a wedge shaped mount and held in 
> final position with gravity and hose clamps.  Keep us all posted on your 
> endeavors as we are looking for the same scenario for D star here 
> starting with the B module and adding C later... gotta recover 
> financially first...
> 
> 73
> 
> Curt
> W1FSM
> 
> n3dab wrote:
> > I know DB made a dual band 150/450 folded dipole antenna (bottom half was 
> > either a DB-222 or the bottom half of a DB-304 and the top half was a DB408 
> > or top half of a DB-420), which is no longer available.  Does anyone recall 
> > whether it was fed with one feed line or two ?  I think it was 2 but, I 
> > can't recall the dipole configuration (singles on opposite sides going up, 
> > or pairs at each level).   
> >
> > I would like to combine a DB-224E (138 -150) with a DB-408 or DB-420 
> > (450-470) on a single mast, or split the antennas at the mid point and make 
> > 2 antennas with the VHF on the bottom and the UHF on the top, and the 
> > reverse on the second antenna.  Has anyone tried this ?  What were the 
> > results ?  The numder of feed lines (1 or 2) to the antenna is not an issue 
> > at this time.  
> >
> > The combined antenna would be for a 2 Mtr./440 D-Star application becuase 
> > of limited tower space available.
> >
> > Comments appreciated 
> >
> > Doug   N3DAB 
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: DB dual band antenna

[n3dab]

Paul and Chuck,

Thanks guy's, that's what I was looking for.  73

Doug   N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey"  wrote:
>
> Two feedlines. It was simply two antennas mounted on the same mast.
> 
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
> 
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "n3dab" 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 11:08 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] DB dual band antenna
> 
> 
> >I know DB made a dual band 150/450 folded dipole antenna (bottom half was 
> >either a DB-222 or the bottom half of a DB-304 and the top half was a DB408 
> >or top half of a DB-420), which is no longer available.  Does anyone recall 
> >whether it was fed with one feed line or two ?  I think it was 2 but, I 
> >can't recall the dipole configuration (singles on opposite sides going up, 
> >or pairs at each level).
> >
> > I would like to combine a DB-224E (138 -150) with a DB-408 or DB-420 
> > (450-470) on a single mast, or split the antennas at the mid point and 
> > make 2 antennas with the VHF on the bottom and the UHF on the top, and the 
> > reverse on the second antenna.  Has anyone tried this ?  What were the 
> > results ?  The numder of feed lines (1 or 2) to the antenna is not an 
> > issue at this time.
> >
> > The combined antenna would be for a 2 Mtr./440 D-Star application becuase 
> > of limited tower space available.
> >
> > Comments appreciated
> >
> > Doug   N3DAB
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] DB dual band antenna

[n3dab]

I know DB made a dual band 150/450 folded dipole antenna (bottom half was 
either a DB-222 or the bottom half of a DB-304 and the top half was a DB408 or 
top half of a DB-420), which is no longer available.  Does anyone recall 
whether it was fed with one feed line or two ?  I think it was 2 but, I can't 
recall the dipole configuration (singles on opposite sides going up, or pairs 
at each level).   

I would like to combine a DB-224E (138 -150) with a DB-408 or DB-420 (450-470) 
on a single mast, or split the antennas at the mid point and make 2 antennas 
with the VHF on the bottom and the UHF on the top, and the reverse on the 
second antenna.  Has anyone tried this ?  What were the results ?  The numder 
of feed lines (1 or 2) to the antenna is not an issue at this time.  

The combined antenna would be for a 2 Mtr./440 D-Star application becuase of 
limited tower space available.

Comments appreciated 

Doug   N3DAB 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna sweep - Decibel S420-440-450

[n3dab]

Not knowing the history of Jeff's DB408D(B), it is possible that the previous 
use was for 2 separate rpt's. or base stations, each using 1/2 of the 
antenna(DB404) on different portions of the 450-470 MHz. band.  I have one 
similar to Jeff's that i recently picked up, with the 2 separate feedline 
connections but haven't swept it to see what SWR is yet.  Jeff's mismatch may 
also be a problem with the harness (defective, corrosion or wrong one) as he 
mentioned or he didn't check to see if the dipoles on the upper half measure 
the same as the ones on the lower half.

The length of the dipoles should determine the approx. portion of the band it 
was deigned for (ie: 11-3/16" OA for 450-470 MHz.) Though apparently there were 
some other length's used for special antennas in the same range). Also 10-1/2" 
for 470-488, 10-1/8" for 488-512 and 12-1/2" for 406-420. These OA dim's. are 
all +/- 1/16".

Doug   N3DAB 


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gary"  wrote:
>
> Yes, I noticed. That's why I asked about similar test data on the 404B. I
> look forward to you next test results on the other 408's in hopes that they
> will accurately represent what my omni directional 404B's can offer for
> reasonable bandwidth below 14dB RL.
> Thanks Jeff.
> Gary
> N6LRV
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff DePolo
> Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 10:09 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna sweep - Decibel S420-440-450
> 
> > 
> > Jeff,
> > Do you have any similar test data available for the DB404B?
> > Thanks,
> > Gary
> > N6LRV
> 
> In the doc is a DB408D (B range) which is two DB404-B's on the same mast,
> one above the other, with separate feedlines to each of the two antennas.
> However, the one that I swept looks a little suspicious; the plots aren't as
> good as I would have expected as I commented on.  I have a couple more of
> those that I can test.  All of the ones I have, including the one I swept,
> are new; I don't know why that one swept poorly.  I'll try to sweep another
> one when I get the chance.
> 
>   --- Jeff WN3A
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna SWR = Desense?

[n3dab]

I know the frustration your dealing with.  When you did your RF tests, were you 
keying the XMTR. thru the local mic. or with the rcvr. disabled, or were you in 
the full rpt. mode and using another radio (HT) or low power signal source?  My 
problems only showed up in the full rpt. mode, after i had checked everthing 
else in the rpt. disabled mode and everthing look great as far as forward and 
reflected power, etc.   Any way LOL again on locating the glitch.

Doug  N3DAB 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "tahrens301"  wrote:
>
> Hi Doug,
> 
> I put the connectors on the hardline myself, & was very
> careful in doing so.  Also did an RF check with a dummy
> load on the end, and no loss/problems.
> 
> I am going to concentrate on the actual connectors from
> the Quantar.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n3dab"  wrote:
> >
> > I've been following this thread on and off.  I was wondering if you tried 
> > replacing the 100' plus run of RG-214 with another cable.  Or if you have 
> > pulled the connectors on each end to see if they are properly installed.  
> > (I have had connectors installed by the cable supplier that were bad.  in 
> > one case a direct short between the shield and center conductor because the 
> > cable wasn't properly trimmed, and in another case the shield was deformed 
> > during the installation and the distance between it and the center 
> > conductor was close enought to short when RF was applied but still not show 
> > a short when check with a VOM for continuity.)  All it takes is for a 
> > couple of strands of the shield braid to be in the wrong place when you key 
> > up. to cause all your greif.  Also, you might want to do the same with all 
> > the other cables (inspect and/or substitute 1 at a time).
> > 
> > Barring that I would suggest you change out every adapter/fitting and right 
> > angle connector you have in the system, from rptr. to antenna, one at a 
> > time to see if the problem lies there as well.  The 100' horizotal distance 
> > and 10' vertical distance are not where the problem is.  You have got a 
> > faulty component os sheilding problem.  
> > 
> > My 2 cents worth.
> > 
> > Doug  N3DAB 
> > 
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna SWR = Desense?

[n3dab]

I've been following this thread on and off.  I was wondering if you tried 
replacing the 100' plus run of RG-214 with another cable.  Or if you have 
pulled the connectors on each end to see if they are properly installed.  (I 
have had connectors installed by the cable supplier that were bad.  in one case 
a direct short between the shield and center conductor because the cable wasn't 
properly trimmed, and in another case the shield was deformed during the 
installation and the distance between it and the center conductor was close 
enought to short when RF was applied but still not show a short when check with 
a VOM for continuity.)  All it takes is for a couple of strands of the shield 
braid to be in the wrong place when you key up. to cause all your greif.  Also, 
you might want to do the same with all the other cables (inspect and/or 
substitute 1 at a time).

Barring that I would suggest you change out every adapter/fitting and right 
angle connector you have in the system, from rptr. to antenna, one at a time to 
see if the problem lies there as well.  The 100' horizotal distance and 10' 
vertical distance are not where the problem is.  You have got a faulty 
component os sheilding problem.  

My 2 cents worth.

Doug  N3DAB 


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "tahrens301"  wrote:
>
> Thanks to all...
> 
> I guess it could be corrosion at the antenna, but the one that
> is on it now is pretty simple, & not much opportunity for
> corrosion.  I am going to put up the 2nd DB-224 tomorrow &
> see what difference it makes... I don't really think it'll
> change much, but it will let me play with the matching unit
> I built & see if it works!
> 
> Don - I can put the iso-tee in line, & feed the atten port
> into the spectrum analyzer.  It should show me if the xmtr
> is having problems.  However, the current antenna is a 
> perfect match - no reflected power at all, so I think the 
> xmtr 'should' be happy.
> 
> The 100' may be the real problem, although everything has
> very well made cables, quality RG-214, N connectors, etc.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim  W5FN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "purvissid"  wrote:
> >
> > You mentioned 100 ft hoz separation, I don't think that is enough, but 
> > don't have a chart handy where I am now.  Sid. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "tahrens301"  wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Jim & All,
> > > 
> > > Thanks for the info & responses.
> > > 
> > > I took down the 224 & found that the N connector on the
> > > end wasn't quite up to snuff.  I am going to put a 
> > > ham antenna on it - think it's a ringo2 or some such thing,
> > > just to see how an antenna with good swr will work in the
> > > desense arena.
> > > 
> > > Then I'll put up a different 224 & see how it goes.
> > > 
> > > I did see the posting about how to lower the frequency
> > > of a 224.  Not sure I want to go that route, but might
> > > in the end!
> > > 
> > > I built a small matching unit that I'll try out... basically
> > > a tuner that will go between the duplexer & feedline.  
> > > 
> > > One of the guys talked about using a smith chart & putting
> > > some stubs at the feed line which would change the matching.
> > > 
> > > gee, lots of things to experiment with.  That's the  of
> > > it no? :-o
> > > 
> > > Thanks again, & I'll post my progress.
> > > 
> > > Tim  W5FN
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown  wrote:
> > > >
> > > > One of the local repeater operators used an antenna at the top of a 100 
> > > > ft tower that got bent over during last winter storms.  He put up a 
> > > > temporary antenna at the tower base and is experiencing some really bad 
> > > > desense with the low antenna.
> > > > 
> > > > He is using a GE Mastr II base station repeater and had reasonable 
> > > > operation with little desense on the antenna 100 ft above the 
> > > > equipment.  The antenna only 15 ft or so above the equipment now and 
> > > > has the bad desense problem.  It would appear that the antenna is 
> > > > flooding the equipment with more RF than the shielding can handle.
> > > > 
> > > > BTW, take a look at some of the previous posts o

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Batteries /Shelby HF (OT)

[n3dab]

Thanks, John.  I'll give him a call this evening.

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, jo...@... wrote:
>
> Sorry,
> 
> That was supposed to be a private reply.
> 
> 
> 
> > He is Robin Midgett, K4IDC - 615-301-1642 Call him tomorrow evening, he
> > goes to bed early.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >> Some one posted a message a short while back about taking a load of
> >> batteries to the Shelby HF this coming weekend.  I can't find the
> >> original
> >> post and am hoping he reads this post.  I'm looking for 6 of the
> >> WP7.2-12
> >> (7.2amp/12v)if he has any and if he will be taking them to Shelby.
> >> Please
> >> contact me off list @ de_n3dab at tds.net
> >> Doug  N3DAB
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> 
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Batteries /Shelby HF (OT)

[n3dab]

Some one posted a message a short while back about taking a load of batteries 
to the Shelby HF this coming weekend.  I can't find the original post and am 
hoping he reads this post.  I'm looking for 6 of the WP7.2-12 (7.2amp/12v)if he 
has any and if he will be taking them to Shelby. Please contact me off list @ 
de_n3dab at tds.net 
Doug  N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] Re: 1.2 GHz Base antennas

[n3dab]

OK. Thanks anyway.  Just thought there might be some experimentors out there in 
RF land.   Do you think a 420-430 antenna work on the 3rd hanmonic, similar to 
using a 2 mtr. antenna with a 440 transmitter, as I have seen mentioned here on 
occaision   There isn't a lot out there in base/rptr. antennas in the 
Amateur or commercial market for 1.2 GHz. unless it is special order.



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey"  wrote:
>
> Sorry, I am of no help. I've never seen a folded dipole array for that band. 
> Not sure if anyone ever made one. My article was cloning a Signals brand 
> antenna with lengths changed to cover the ham band.
> 
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
> 
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "n3dab" 
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 2:17 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 1.2 GHz Base antennas
> 
> 
> > Mark - To keep from repeating my self i'll refer you to my response to 
> > John's reply.  I appreciate your reply but your references were for Yagi's 
> > and colinear antennas and not applicable to what i had in mind of 
> > building, though the colinear antenna may be a fallback.  If Chuck Kelsey 
> > is amongst the readers of this post maybe he has some additional info on 
> > the 1.2 GHz dimensions i'm looking for.   Thanks again for your input.
> >
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mark"  wrote:
> >>
> >> Doug,
> >>
> >> Check out the articles on the companion website:
> >> http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/pdf/wr9aea-antenna-n9sn-hr09-79.pdf
> >> http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/wa6svt.html
> >>
> >> and the master page:
> >> http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/ant-sys-index.html#antennas
> >>
> >> A real treasure trove of information!
> >>
> >> 73 de Mark - N9WYS
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >> [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
> >> Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 11:14 AM
> >> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 1.2 GHz Base antennas
> >>
> >> I'm looking for any information and/or construction details for a hi-gain
> >> folded dipole omni-directional antenna in the 1.2 GHz Amateur band 
> >> (similar
> >> to the VHF design shown in the ARRL Handbook or the DB products line) for
> >> use as a base or repeater antenna.  I would like to  build the folded 
> >> dipole
> >> type, but am not to familiar with the way to compute the dipole 
> >> dimensions,
> >> stand off from the mast and vertical spacing of the dipole loops. If 
> >> someone
> >> has already built one successfully, I would appreciate them contacting me 
> >> of
> >> list at " de underscore n3dab @ tds dot net "(no spaces) if they are 
> >> willing
> >> to share their knowledge.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> 
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.67/2326 - Release Date: 
> >> 08/25/09
> >> 18:07:00
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: 50-Ohm Pads

[n3dab]

I just use a 50 ohm dummy load on the open ports when tuning a duplexer, or 
leave one of the cables connected to the Xmtr. or Rcvr.  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "John Transue"  wrote:
>
> Bruce, Chuck,
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. It appears that minicircuits has
> everything covered. 
> 
> Bruce, I could not tell whether you are a dealer or just happen to
> have some extra pads. My need is not specific yet, but I see that 6 dB
> and 30 dB pads are used quite often. 
> 
> My use of the pads would most likely be to ensure a near-50-ohm
> impedance when making measurements or tuning a cavity, etc. 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> >-Original Message-
> >From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
> >buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey
> >Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 8:47 PM
> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] 50-Ohm Pads
> >
> >Not sure what your attachment was, it was all scrambled.
> >
> >Attenuators:
> >
> >http://www.minicircuits.com/products/attenuators_coax_fixed.html
> >
> >
> >Chuck
> >WB2EDV
> >
> >
> >
> >- Original Message -
> >From: "John Transue" 
> >To: 
> >Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 8:06 PM
> >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 50-Ohm Pads [1 Attachment]
> >
> >
> >> Can anyone recommend a good source for 50-ohm pads? Also, 50-ohm
> >> variable attenuators.
> >>
> >> John Transue
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> 
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >__ NOD32 4367 (20090825) Information __
> >
> >This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
> >http://www.eset.com
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: 1.2 GHz Base antennas

[n3dab]

Mark - To keep from repeating my self i'll refer you to my response to John's 
reply.  I appreciate your reply but your references were for Yagi's and 
colinear antennas and not applicable to what i had in mind of building, though 
the colinear antenna may be a fallback.  If Chuck Kelsey is amongst the readers 
of this post maybe he has some additional info on the 1.2 GHz dimensions i'm 
looking for.   Thanks again for your input.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mark"  wrote:
>
> Doug,
> 
> Check out the articles on the companion website:
> http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/pdf/wr9aea-antenna-n9sn-hr09-79.pdf 
> http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/wa6svt.html 
> 
> and the master page:
> http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/ant-sys-index.html#antennas 
> 
> A real treasure trove of information!
> 
> 73 de Mark - N9WYS
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
> Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 11:14 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 1.2 GHz Base antennas
> 
> I'm looking for any information and/or construction details for a hi-gain
> folded dipole omni-directional antenna in the 1.2 GHz Amateur band (similar
> to the VHF design shown in the ARRL Handbook or the DB products line) for
> use as a base or repeater antenna.  I would like to  build the folded dipole
> type, but am not to familiar with the way to compute the dipole dimensions,
> stand off from the mast and vertical spacing of the dipole loops. If someone
> has already built one successfully, I would appreciate them contacting me of
> list at " de underscore n3dab @ tds dot net "(no spaces) if they are willing
> to share their knowledge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.67/2326 - Release Date: 08/25/09
> 18:07:00
>

[Repeater-Builder] 1.2 GHz Base antennas

[n3dab]

I'm looking for any information and/or construction details for a hi-gain 
folded dipole omni-directional antenna in the 1.2 GHz Amateur band (similar to 
the VHF design shown in the ARRL Handbook or the DB products line) for use as a 
base or repeater antenna.  I would like to  build the folded dipole type, but 
am not to familiar with the way to compute the dipole dimensions, stand off 
from the mast and vertical spacing of the dipole loops. If someone has already 
built one successfully, I would appreciate them contacting me of list at " de 
underscore n3dab @ tds dot net "(no spaces) if they are willing to share their 
knowledge.

[Repeater-Builder] Re: duplexerhelp or a good recomendation

[n3dab]

Use the top antenna (celwave) for rec'v. and the mag mount mobile for Xmit.  
Use RG-214 or 1/2" heliax (not LMR) for cabling to antennnas.  minimize all 
jumpers andadapters and try to use silver plated fittings. try not to use any 
right angel connectors.  If short flexible jumper cables are needed use RG-142B 
or 1/4" -3/8" heliax. Do not use RG-58 or 59 in your system. Your isolation (?) 
problem may be due to poor cable/cannector choices. Reduce Xmit power if 
necessary to reduce any desense of the rcvr.  Make sure you have an adequate 
groung plane (like a 24" dia. galv. steel plate) for the mag mount to sit on 
and stand it off the tower leg at least 24".  You also might try inverting the 
mag mount so the antenna is on the bottom of the ground plane plate.  

Doug  N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "agrimm0034"  wrote:
>
> I am using a UHF GMRS repeater without a duplexer on 40 ft of tower. I use 2 
> antennas one of a Celwave 6db gain on the top as a tx antenna, and one 15 ft 
> up off the ground mag mount to use as a rx antenna. The tx radio is a 45 watt 
> and the rx on the rx radio is .35uv sensitivity. It seems to me that I don't 
> have enough isolation between the antennas and often have trouble getting 
> through the repeater. Am I out of my mind to look into getting a celwave 
> duplexer or is there any other ideas's that would fit my needs?
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[n3dab]

Try a liberal application of Moth Balls and D-Con.   Both available at most 
super markets and home stores like Home Depot.  Place at various locations 
around the site interior. They Moth Balls can be placed inside and around the 
equipment cabinets.  The D-Con on the floor near or in interior corners and 
near interior openings used for entry/exit by the mice.  Check and replace 
perodically as the Moth Balls evaporate over time and the mice eat tihe D-Con 
then go off looking for water and die.

N3DAB


-- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jed Barton"  wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
> I am sure many of you have been through this before.
> The evil mice decided to waunder in to my repeater sight.  Up until now they
> avoided my repeater, but when I went up there, I was less than pleased.
> They didn't chew any wires thank god, but they walked across the top of the
> icom rp4020, and left some presents if you know what I mean.
> I need some input, what's the best way to clean it up, anything in
> particular?
> All the covers were on, so I don't think they got inside, but haven't pulled
> the cover off yet.
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jed
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wacom WP-640-6 Duplexer help needed

[n3dab]

Try testing each cavity by itself, then test each Tee and each cable 
individually to see if you can isolate a bad cavity or component.  When testing 
each cavity try moving the tuning rod in and out to see if you have a dead spot 
from arcing or carbon build-up.  If that model has the capacitive tubes on the 
side of the cavity remove and clean all those components as well. If you can't 
locate any faulty components on the exterior then internal inspection will be 
necessary.  and it may be simpler to send it back to Wacom/Telewave for repair. 
 Also, I hope your using a service monitor with tracking generator or a signal 
generator and spectrum analyzer or some type of equipment that you can see the 
the freqency trace on as you feed it thru the cavities.

I have 2 similar 4 cavity sets here and the top and bottom plates appear to be 
press fitted to the round body.  I've beaten the tops off of several DB-40xx 
cavities and reworked them then put them back together but they are both press 
and riveted together and I would think easier to disassemble and replace then 
the Wacom cavities.  

Of course if the cavities are notching the signal you are trying to pass thru 
them that might make you think they are bad too.  LOL in finding the problem.

DougN3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Larry  wrote:
>
> Would anyone on the list have any info
> for the Wacom WP-640-6 Duplexer.
> 
> I realize that Telewave makes the TPRD-1556 and shows it as an equivalent
> However the cavity construction, cables and cavity port connections are 
> not the the same.
> 
> Anyone know how these are constructed inside. 
> 
> The duplexer doesn't appear to have been damaged or dismantled but we are
> unable to pass any frequency through them.
> 
> Pointers welcome.
> 
> Larry - N7FM
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: low band duplexer question

[n3dab]

My guess from looking at the schematic is that the tee's are for the grounded 
and ungrounded coaxial cable tuning stubs that were cut for the original 
freqency and have been apparently removed.   Some one else will have to fill 
you in on how to calculate the length, etc for making replacements.

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n...@... wrote:
>
> At 3/29/2009 14:09, you wrote:
> >Ok, so I've got a nice looking db-4030 duplexer.
> >Little 6m repeater project cooking.
> >
> >Now, I've got the "tuning" sheet and also the scan of a fax of a
> >modification sheet for 6m.
> >
> >I also understand it's a reject only setup.
> >
> >My question is, what are the unterminated "T" connectors doing all over the
> >harness?
> >
> >Please forgive the terrible pictures, I used my cheap motorcycle MP4 camera.
> >
> >There are 4 "T" connectors that only have a plastic cap over the female
> >part.
> >
> >Just seems crazy to me.
> 
> Check out the last page of 
> <http://www.repeater-builder.com/db/db-4032-low-band-duplexer.pdf>. 
> According to the table at the lower right, 6 cables on the DB-4032 (6 can 
> version of the DB-4030) are omitted for splits 1 MHz or greater.  Also, 
> unterminated T connectors @ VHF lowband are going to look pretty much like 
> opens, since the line length is very short.  Don't know how much leakage 
> you'd get with SO239s; I do know that female Ns left open won't leak, 
> especially @ 50 MHz..
> 
> Check the schematic in the above referenced page & see if it matches what 
> you have, subtracting the 2 outside cans from the schematic.
> 
> Bob NO6B
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which UHF Antenna to Buy?

[n3dab]

Ooops, forgot to put the website in the last message.
 
http://lrcov.crc.ca/cov.php?lang=en

It is free and allows you to play with your parameters.

Doug  N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "k5in"  wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Now that I have clearly demonstrated my ignorance about multi bay dipole 
> antennas: Which one to buy for the following system.
> 
> 
> 441.950 output, 2,700ft on a mountain with a 160ft tower.  Antenna will live 
> at the 140ft level fed by 78th inch hardline.
> 
> I need coverage that will include myself 12 air miles away at 50ft ASL, plus 
> a turrane that varies in height from my level up and out to whatever distance.
> 
> Do any of you with much more experience of antenna's such as the Decibel 
> Products have any suggestions?  Of course I could pay hundreds of dollars for 
> site plots and so forth but after all, this is amateur radio.
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading and your patience too.
> 
> 
> Brian
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which UHF Antenna to Buy?

[n3dab]

Try this web site for a radio propagation plot or map.  I f you have any 
problems using it email me direct - de_n3...@tds.net - and i'll try to help you 
out.

Doug N3DAB

- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "k5in"  wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Now that I have clearly demonstrated my ignorance about multi bay dipole 
> antennas: Which one to buy for the following system.
> 
> 
> 441.950 output, 2,700ft on a mountain with a 160ft tower.  Antenna will live 
> at the 140ft level fed by 78th inch hardline.
> 
> I need coverage that will include myself 12 air miles away at 50ft ASL, plus 
> a turrane that varies in height from my level up and out to whatever distance.
> 
> Do any of you with much more experience of antenna's such as the Decibel 
> Products have any suggestions?  Of course I could pay hundreds of dollars for 
> site plots and so forth but after all, this is amateur radio.
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading and your patience too.
> 
> 
> Brian
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: What is this antenna???

[n3dab]

My first Db was a 410 in the same time period.  It had tubular di-poles and 
tubular stand-off's, not the stamp sheet type now used.  It had 8 pairs of 
di-poles (16 total) and was on a 2 section mast the same as the current DB-420. 
  I don't know what has only 6 di-poles an a 12' mast unless it is a home brew 
from a damaged antenna.  Everything I remember from the old DB catalogs for 
di-pole antennas was 1, 2, 4, 8, or 16 di-poles.  Single sided arrays had 1, 2, 
4 and 8 and pairs had 2, 4, 8, and 16.

Doug   N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey"  wrote:
>
> I would have guessed that they went to tubing earlier than the 80's, but my 
> earliest Decibel antenna was around 1978-81 (they used tubing), so I can't 
> say with any certainty.
> 
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: Jeff DePolo 
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 10:03 AM
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] What is this antenna???
> 
> 
> 
> If the elements are flat (not tubing), then it's a DB410. They stopped
> making them probably in the early 80's?
> 
> --- Jeff
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

[n3dab]

Extend the radials not less than 1/4 wave from the mast stub to the tip.  And 
bend them down at about a 30 degree angle.  Lone
ger radials probably wouldn't hurt (in 1/4 wave increments) but provides more 
wind load and aesthectic challenges.  $ equally space might be slightly better 
than3 but i doubt you would notice the difference.

Doug   N3DAB  


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
wrote:
>
> I am pretty sure HD has aluminum strips that will work just fine.  Should I 
> make the radials 1/4 wave , or longer?
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n3dab"  wrote:
> >
> > Forgot to mention if you can't find alum. for the ground plane elements at 
> > the local surpus yard or hardware store (HD or Lowes) see if you can find 
> > the city or county sign shop (the people who maintain the stop, yield and 
> > directional signs) as the may have pulls  or damaged signs you can talk 
> > them out of.  These are fairly heavy gage but usually soft alum. alloy and 
> > can be easily cut into strips with a carbide tipped blade on a small table 
> > saw with out any damage to the saw.  Just make sure you put the alum. side 
> > against the metal mast stub as the sign side is a decal and you may not get 
> > the bonding you want for the radials.  
> > 
> > Doug  N3DAB
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Good point, much easier to use a couple of clamps, and I just happen to 
> > > have some stainless steel clamps here in the garage!  Thanks for the 
> > > advice.
> > > 
> > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n3dab"  wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Do your self a big favor and don't drill any holes.  Use 1 or 2 large 
> > > > stainless steel hose clamps, slip 3 or 4 aluminum radials up between 
> > > > the clamp and metal antenna base (similar to what you see in the 
> > > > picture for the TDD-6082).  That is the way the Motorola and Station 
> > > > Master base station radials are atached.  Extend the aluminum radial 
> > > > metal about 1" above the top clamp, tighten the clamps and then fold 
> > > > the 1" projection over to cover the SS clamp band.  That way if the 
> > > > clamp loosens up a bit the radials wont fall off.
> > > > 
> > > > Doug   N3DAB  
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen" 
> > > >  wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, that sounds like the antenna I have exactly, must be it.  Looks 
> > > > > like the general concensuss is to keep this one in service and not 
> > > > > even bother trying the Diamond antenna.  I don't have the radials 
> > > > > though, but with this antenna I could even drill some holes in the 
> > > > > collar that screws over the N connector and install radials that way. 
> > > > >  I bet that will help with the radiation pattern a bit.  Thanks for 
> > > > > all the assitance, as always, this is an awesome group.  73;s
> > > > > 
> > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Pelnar"  
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You described mine like you were looking at it.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > - Original Message - 
> > > > > > From: "wb6dgn" 
> > > > > > To: 
> > > > > > Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 9:16 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
> > > > > > antenna 
> > > > > > made by Motorola
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Hi Gerald and the group,
> > > > > > > I think I've got one of these antennas too.
> > > > > > > It has a white fiberglass radome, just under 7 feet long and 
> > > > > > > about an inch 
> > > > > > > in diameter at the base,
> > > > > > > coupled to an aluminum bottom section about a foot long and 
> > > > > > > 1-5/16 inch 
> > > > > > > diameter.
> > > > > > > A protective sleeve of the aluminum unscrews to expose an "N" 
> > > > > > > female 
> > > > > > > connector

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

[n3dab]

Forgot to mention if you can't find alum. for the ground plane elements at the 
local surpus yard or hardware store (HD or Lowes) see if you can find the city 
or county sign shop (the people who maintain the stop, yield and directional 
signs) as the may have pulls  or damaged signs you can talk them out of.  These 
are fairly heavy gage but usually soft alum. alloy and can be easily cut into 
strips with a carbide tipped blade on a small table saw with out any damage to 
the saw.  Just make sure you put the alum. side against the metal mast stub as 
the sign side is a decal and you may not get the bonding you want for the 
radials.  

Doug  N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
wrote:
>
> Good point, much easier to use a couple of clamps, and I just happen to have 
> some stainless steel clamps here in the garage!  Thanks for the advice.
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n3dab"  wrote:
> >
> > Do your self a big favor and don't drill any holes.  Use 1 or 2 large 
> > stainless steel hose clamps, slip 3 or 4 aluminum radials up between the 
> > clamp and metal antenna base (similar to what you see in the picture for 
> > the TDD-6082).  That is the way the Motorola and Station Master base 
> > station radials are atached.  Extend the aluminum radial metal about 1" 
> > above the top clamp, tighten the clamps and then fold the 1" projection 
> > over to cover the SS clamp band.  That way if the clamp loosens up a bit 
> > the radials wont fall off.
> > 
> > Doug   N3DAB  
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Yes, that sounds like the antenna I have exactly, must be it.  Looks like 
> > > the general concensuss is to keep this one in service and not even bother 
> > > trying the Diamond antenna.  I don't have the radials though, but with 
> > > this antenna I could even drill some holes in the collar that screws over 
> > > the N connector and install radials that way.  I bet that will help with 
> > > the radiation pattern a bit.  Thanks for all the assitance, as always, 
> > > this is an awesome group.  73;s
> > > 
> > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Pelnar"  wrote:
> > > >
> > > > You described mine like you were looking at it.
> > > > 
> > > > - Original Message - 
> > > > From: "wb6dgn" 
> > > > To: 
> > > > Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 9:16 PM
> > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
> > > > antenna 
> > > > made by Motorola
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > Hi Gerald and the group,
> > > > > I think I've got one of these antennas too.
> > > > > It has a white fiberglass radome, just under 7 feet long and about an 
> > > > > inch 
> > > > > in diameter at the base,
> > > > > coupled to an aluminum bottom section about a foot long and 1-5/16 
> > > > > inch 
> > > > > diameter.
> > > > > A protective sleeve of the aluminum unscrews to expose an "N" female 
> > > > > connector.
> > > > > The logo is a black rectangle with a white ellipse centered over it. 
> > > > > There was probably a name written in that ellipse but it's no longer 
> > > > > readable now.
> > > > > There is a serial number tag on the aluminum base but some of the 
> > > > > numbers 
> > > > > are no longer readable due to a clamp damaging the tag.
> > > > > It also has the radial assembly just as you describe.
> > > > > I see no other markings or frequency range marked on it but,
> > > > > if it was pulled from the system I think it was, most of the channels 
> > > > > were 
> > > > > in the 453/458 range
> > > > > with one or two in the 467 range.  I suspect it'll work just fine on 
> > > > > the 
> > > > > ham band.
> > > > > The mounting clamps are missing but they should be pretty easy to 
> > > > > scrounge; if anyone has spares, let me know.
> > > > > Where is the frequency range marked on the antenna?  If I know where 
> > > > > to 
> > > > > look,
> > > > > I'll try to clean a little of the dirt or oxidation to see if I can 
> > > > > find 
> > > > > it.
> &g

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

[n3dab]

Do your self a big favor and don't drill any holes.  Use 1 or 2 large stainless 
steel hose clamps, slip 3 or 4 aluminum radials up between the clamp and metal 
antenna base (similar to what you see in the picture for the TDD-6082).  That 
is the way the Motorola and Station Master base station radials are atached.  
Extend the aluminum radial metal about 1" above the top clamp, tighten the 
clamps and then fold the 1" projection over to cover the SS clamp band.  That 
way if the clamp loosens up a bit the radials wont fall off.

Doug   N3DAB  


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
wrote:
>
> Yes, that sounds like the antenna I have exactly, must be it.  Looks like the 
> general concensuss is to keep this one in service and not even bother trying 
> the Diamond antenna.  I don't have the radials though, but with this antenna 
> I could even drill some holes in the collar that screws over the N connector 
> and install radials that way.  I bet that will help with the radiation 
> pattern a bit.  Thanks for all the assitance, as always, this is an awesome 
> group.  73;s
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Pelnar"  wrote:
> >
> > You described mine like you were looking at it.
> > 
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "wb6dgn" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 9:16 PM
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna 
> > made by Motorola
> > 
> > 
> > > Hi Gerald and the group,
> > > I think I've got one of these antennas too.
> > > It has a white fiberglass radome, just under 7 feet long and about an 
> > > inch 
> > > in diameter at the base,
> > > coupled to an aluminum bottom section about a foot long and 1-5/16 inch 
> > > diameter.
> > > A protective sleeve of the aluminum unscrews to expose an "N" female 
> > > connector.
> > > The logo is a black rectangle with a white ellipse centered over it. 
> > > There was probably a name written in that ellipse but it's no longer 
> > > readable now.
> > > There is a serial number tag on the aluminum base but some of the numbers 
> > > are no longer readable due to a clamp damaging the tag.
> > > It also has the radial assembly just as you describe.
> > > I see no other markings or frequency range marked on it but,
> > > if it was pulled from the system I think it was, most of the channels 
> > > were 
> > > in the 453/458 range
> > > with one or two in the 467 range.  I suspect it'll work just fine on the 
> > > ham band.
> > > The mounting clamps are missing but they should be pretty easy to 
> > > scrounge; if anyone has spares, let me know.
> > > Where is the frequency range marked on the antenna?  If I know where to 
> > > look,
> > > I'll try to clean a little of the dirt or oxidation to see if I can find 
> > > it.
> > > Looks like a nice antenna.  There's an RFS version in the Tessco catalog 
> > > that suggests that they might be the OEM parent of this antenna.
> > > Tom DGN
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Pelnar"  
> > > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> The radials just clamp on. Each one is bent to reach to the next. Small 
> > >> bolt
> > >> fasten them together around the base.
> > >>
> > >> Gerald Pelnar WD0FYF
> > >> McPherson, Ks
> > >>
> > >> - Original Message - 
> > >> From: "gebhardstephen" 
> > >> To: 
> > >> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:41 AM
> > >> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
> > >> antenna
> > >> made by Motorola
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> > Thanks Gerald, that sounds like the one, except for the one I have does
> > >> > not have ground radials, and I don't see any place to install them 
> > >> > either.
> > >> > I was contemplating changing the antenna to something like a Diamond
> > >> > F718A, it has better gain, almost double over the one I am using now, 
> > >> > plus
> > >> > it is designed for the frequency I am on, I wonder if the small 
> > >> > investment
> > >> > would yield better coverage.
> > >> >
> > >> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Pelnar" 
> > >> > wrote:
&g

[Repeater-Builder] Re: More on the Q2330 Duplexer

[n3dab]

The Q202 with the 7" dia cans would give you better results, i believe, higher 
Q and all that.  The hybrib ring type might be a PIA to retune but if you have 
the 4 cans with the Tuning Capacitor in the Loop Assembly tuning will be much 
easier and you should get 85 to 90 dB isolation per side.  Not  sure what the 
complete model no. is but there are some on eBay in one of the store listings 
(though the price is quite high for the Ham market).

Doug  N3DAB
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, David Struebel  wrote:
>
> With all of this discussion, is either the Q202 or its cousins or the new 
> Q2330 all with now 80 dB of isolation good enough for a 2 meter repeater with 
> a 0.6 MHz split?   Putting a new machine on the air and need to know if I 
> should go with a 6 cavity duplexer to give me the 100 or so dB isolation, and 
> albeit the higher insertion loss or can I stay with a 4 can duplexer with 
> typically 85 dB isolation and 1.5 dB insertion loss?
> 
> In a quandry... most of my experience is with a Sinclair hybrid ring duplexer 
> which seems to work fine at a 25 watt level.
> 
> 
> 73 Dave WB2FTX
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: John J. Riddell 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 7:41 PM
>   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] More on the Q2330 Duplexer
> 
> 
> 
>   After checking the Sinclair Web site, I see that they have lowered the Tx - 
> Rx isolation
>   on the Q 2330 duplexer to 85 Db.
>   The original literature that I had claimed 100 Db.
> 
>   73 John VE3AMZ
> 
>   
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
>   Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.29/2023 - Release Date: 03/25/09 
> 18:54:00
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.30/2026 - Release Date: 03/27/09 
> 07:13:00
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

[n3dab]

Sorry I was asleep at the keyboard last night. TDE-6082A is 8 feet long OA per 
moto. specs.  Photo of the TDD  is generic and the lower gain version may not 
have had radials.  However some alum. sheet strips projecting about 1/4 wave 
off the base and secured with a SS hose clamp will do the trick if you want to 
go to the trouble.  

Doug  N3DAB  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
wrote:
>
> Thanks Gerald, that sounds like the one, except for the one I have does not 
> have ground radials, and I don't see any place to install them either.  I was 
> contemplating changing the antenna to something like a Diamond F718A, it has 
> better gain, almost double over the one I am using now, plus it is designed 
> for the frequency I am on, I wonder if the small investment would yield 
> better coverage.
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Pelnar"  wrote:
> >
> > I have one of those in the garage. TDE-6082A It's about 7 feet long (I 
> > didn't measure it) and has radials on it. Label says 460- 470. I used it 
> > temporarily on a 443.275 machine here at the house for testing. SWR wasn't 
> > bad and worked just fine.
> > 
> > Gerald Pelnar WD0FYF
> > McPherson, Ks
> > 
> > 
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "gebhardstephen" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:13 AM
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna 
> > made by Motorola
> > 
> > 
> > > That one is closer, but the length is wrong, and the one pictured has 
> > > ground radials, this one does not.  Without specifics I guess this is as 
> > > far as I can go.  What I am trying to do is see if this is the right 
> > > antenna for a ham repeater on 447.425/442.425 split.  As I said before, 
> > > the SWR is OK, but I wonder if it is just operating on a multiple, and I 
> > > am not getting the full gain that I should.
> > >
> > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n3dab"  wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Could be.  Motorola spec say OA length for the TDE-6082A is *'.  The 
> > >> Hi-Gain specs for the TDD-6082A on the RB site don't give the OA lengths 
> > >> for the different gain antennas, except to say max. length is about 22'. 
> > >> Unless there is some indication of the Mfg. on the remaining portion of 
> > >> the label or you can find more specs. for the Hi-Gain antenns it's just 
> > >> a 
> > >> guess at this point.
> > >>
> > >> Doug   N3DAB
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> -- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Hudson"  wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > It could be a TDD-6082
> > >> >
> > >> > See here:
> > >> >
> > >> > http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/mot-vhf-hi-gain-ant-specs.pdf
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> > Bill - W6CBS
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >   _
> > >> >
> > >> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > >> > [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
> > >> > Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 2:52 PM
> > >> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > >> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
> > >> > antenna
> > >> > made by Motorola
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> > Mark
> > >> >
> > >> > My info came from an old Moto. catalog. If it is about 8' OA long
> > >> > long with a N connector as he described on it it's not a mobile 
> > >> > antenna.
> > >> >
> > >> > Doug N3DAB
> > >> >
> > >> > --- In Repeater-Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >> > yahoogroups.com, "Mark"  wrote:
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I'm confused. This was described initially as a "repeater antenna" 
> > >> > > but if
> > >> > I
> > >> > > Google the Motorola part number, I see pictures of a mobile antenna. 
> > >> > > Which
> > >> > > are we talking about?
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Mark - N9WYS
> > >> > >
> >

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

[n3dab]

Could be.  Motorola spec say OA length for the TDE-6082A is *'.  The Hi-Gain 
specs for the TDD-6082A on the RB site don't give the OA lengths for the 
different gain antennas, except to say max. length is about 22'. Unless there 
is some indication of the Mfg. on the remaining portion of the label or you can 
find more specs. for the Hi-Gain antenns it's just a guess at this point.

Doug   N3DAB


-- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Hudson"  wrote:
>
> It could be a TDD-6082
> 
> See here:
> 
> http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/mot-vhf-hi-gain-ant-specs.pdf
> 
>  
> 
> Bill - W6CBS
> 
>  
> 
>   _  
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
> Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 2:52 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna
> made by Motorola
> 
>  
> 
> Mark
> 
> My info came from an old Moto. catalog. If it is about 8' OA long
> long with a N connector as he described on it it's not a mobile antenna. 
> 
> Doug N3DAB
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Mark"  wrote:
> >
> > I'm confused. This was described initially as a "repeater antenna" but if
> I
> > Google the Motorola part number, I see pictures of a mobile antenna. Which
> > are we talking about?
> > 
> > Mark - N9WYS
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Repeater-Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n3dab
> > 
> > Negative, but my guess would be Phelps Dodge. Maybe Celwave,or possibly DB
> > Products. Maybe some of the other Guru's on the site can probably fill you
> > in on that.
> > 
> > Doug N3DAB
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen" 
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Doug, actually I checked SWR on 442 Mhz and it is 1.2:1! Do you
> > know who made this for Motorola?
> > > 
> > > --- In Repeater-Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "n3dab"  wrote:
> > > >
> > > > It's a TDE-6082A, 5db gain, 460-470MHz. If ti is working properly it
> > would be good for GMRS as is. Don't know what you would find in > > SWR in
> > the 440 band but probably more then you would want to consider having.
> > > > 
> > > > Doug N3DAB
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen" 
> > wrote:
> > 
> > Hi all, I have a UHF repeter antenna that was in use on 463 Mhz. I cannot
> > find any information as to frequency range, max power, gain, etc. The last
> > of the model # is E-6082A (The first part of the label is worn off and
> > unreadable). I have done some searching and cannot find any information on
> > a Motorola brand antenna. It is a fiberglass stick about 6 foot in length,
> > with a N connector, and no ground radials. Does anyone out there have some
> > infromation on this antenna, or know where I can find it? Thanks to all,
> > and have a great day!
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

[n3dab]

Mark

My info came from an old Moto. catalog.  If it is about 8' OA long
long with a N connector as he described on it it's not a mobile antenna.  

Doug N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mark"  wrote:
>
> I'm confused.  This was described initially as a "repeater antenna" but if I
> Google the Motorola part number, I see pictures of a mobile antenna.  Which
> are we talking about?
> 
> Mark - N9WYS
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n3dab
> 
> Negative, but my guess would be Phelps Dodge.  Maybe Celwave,or possibly DB
> Products. Maybe some of the other Guru's on the site can probably fill you
> in on that.
> 
> Doug  N3DAB
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen" 
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Doug, actually I checked SWR on 442 Mhz and it is 1.2:1!  Do you
> know who made this for Motorola?
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n3dab"  wrote:
> > >
> > > It's a TDE-6082A, 5db gain, 460-470MHz.  If ti is working properly it
> would be good for GMRS as is. Don't know what you would find in > > SWR in
> the 440 band but probably more then you would want to consider having.
> > > 
> > > Doug  N3DAB
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen" 
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all, I have a UHF repeter antenna that was in use on 463 Mhz.  I cannot
> find any information as to frequency range, max power, gain, etc.  The last
> of the model # is E-6082A (The first part of the label is worn off and
> unreadable).  I have done some searching and cannot find any information on
> a Motorola brand antenna.  It is a fiberglass stick about 6 foot in length,
> with a N connector, and no ground radials.  Does anyone out there have some
> infromation on this antenna, or know where I can find it?  Thanks to all,
> and have a great day!
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

[n3dab]

Negative, but my guess would be Phelps Dodge.  Maybe Celwave,or possibly DB 
Products. Maybe some of the other Guru's on the site can probably fill you in 
on that.

Doug  N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
wrote:
>
> Thanks Doug, actually I checked SWR on 442 Mhz and it is 1.2:1!  Do you know 
> who made this for Motorola?
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n3dab"  wrote:
> >
> > It's a TDE-6082A, 5db gain, 460-470MHz.  If ti is working properly it would 
> > be good for GMRS as is. Don't know what you would find in SWR in the 440 
> > band but probably more then you would want to consider having.
> > 
> > 
> > Doug  N3DAB
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all, I have a UHF repeter antenna that was in use on 463 Mhz.  I 
> > > cannot find any information as to frequency range, max power, gain, etc.  
> > > The last of the model # is E-6082A (The first part of the label is worn 
> > > off and unreadable).  I have done some searching and cannot find any 
> > > information on a Motorola brand antenna.  It is a fiberglass stick about 
> > > 6 foot in length, with a N connector, and no ground radials.  Does anyone 
> > > out there have some infromation on this antenna, or know where I can find 
> > > it?  Thanks to all, and have a great day!
> > >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

[n3dab]

It's a TDE-6082A, 5db gain, 460-470MHz.  If ti is working properly it would be 
good for GMRS as is. Don't know what you would find in SWR in the 440 band but 
probably more then you would want to consider having.


Doug  N3DAB
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "gebhardstephen"  
wrote:
>
> Hi all, I have a UHF repeter antenna that was in use on 463 Mhz.  I cannot 
> find any information as to frequency range, max power, gain, etc.  The last 
> of the model # is E-6082A (The first part of the label is worn off and 
> unreadable).  I have done some searching and cannot find any information on a 
> Motorola brand antenna.  It is a fiberglass stick about 6 foot in length, 
> with a N connector, and no ground radials.  Does anyone out there have some 
> infromation on this antenna, or know where I can find it?  Thanks to all, and 
> have a great day!
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E

[n3dab]

Yes, but we modified/replaced  the loops in the cavities to get better 
performance.  No changes were made to the harness as I recall.  I don't recall 
the Pass/Rejectfigures at the moment (but they were comparable to other 4 
cavity 2 mtr. duplexersor slightly better, but the duplexer has been operating 
on the K4SLB 2 mtr. rptr. in Kissimmee Fl for the last year and a half.  You'll 
need access to a service monitor with a tracking generator at least to make the 
mod.  It's a reasonably simple mod. and all that was required was some #14 Ga. 
bare copper wire, a soldering iron and your time and access to the SM.  Other 
may have different ideas or suggestions.

Doug   N3DAB
 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Terry"  wrote:
>
> Does anyone have experience using this model on 2 meters? Do they provide 
> enough practical isolation for single antenna, 600kc split?
> 
> (Sinclair Q2220E 4 Cavity VHF BpBr Repeater)
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel dipole array sweeps

[n3dab]

Jeff ,

I'm interested, however, I can't pull up the website you posted below for some 
reason.  

Also I'm curious about your findings with regard to using the upper half of 
atennas like the DB420 and impedance you are seeing at the mid point connector. 
I'm assuming the entire antenna presents a 50 +/-ohm load at the original feed 
point but what impedance do you actually see if you using the top half (of a 
damage antenna)and feed it at the mid-point connector ?  Thanks 
  
Doug N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff DePolo"  wrote:
>
> 
> I'm in the process of putting up a remote receiver for a 440 ham repeater.
.
> 
> The document can be found here:
> 
> <http://www.broadsci.com/Antenna Sweeps r1.pdf>
> 
> doc.
> 
>   --- Jeff WN3A
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel dipole array sweeps

[n3dab]

No luck accessing the website.

Have you tested the DB420.  I know they are pretty broad banded.  I have a 
damaged one and only the top half is useable.  What type of impedence mismatch 
am I looking at if I feed the top half at the mid point connector.  And it if 
is way off, how would I correct it to bring it back to 50 Ohms +/- ?? 

Doug  N3DAB 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-400 and Belden 9914 "DuoBond"

[n3dab]

LMR400: Ctr. cond. is copper clad alum./ Dielectric is Closed Cell Foam 
PolyEthylene. (ccfpe)? Shield is Alum. foil (Not sure if it is bonded to the 
dielectric or not) Jacket is Polyethylene Class 111A.

Belden 9914:  Ctr. Cond. is Copper./ Jacket is PVC i believe./  Shield is Alum. 
foil Bonded to dielectric and Braid is Tinned copper i believe./ Dielectric I'm 
not sure about but it is very dense and closed cell.

You can find all the specs. on the Belden and Times Cable websites.

Doug  n3dab

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, James Delancy  wrote:
>
> Does anybody know any actual differences between these two cables (other 
> than manufacturer, the obvious and the fact that the Belden actually 
> seems to have a solid copper center conductor whereas the LMR-400 seems 
> to be possibly steel core)?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Please don't flame me ... I know better than to use these in duplex 
> service ... I just want to know more about them!
> 
> James WJ1D
>

[Repeater-Builder] Intermod. question

[n3dab]

Thanks to Chuck, Mark,and Greg for the suggestions on different lubricants to 
use.  This will give me something to research and check-out.  Thanks again.   
Doug /n3dab

[Repeater-Builder] Intermod. question

[n3dab]

A recent post concerning intermod created by rusty bolts, washers, etc. caught 
my attention the other day.  Someone suggested using Lithium Grease on and 
between the components when assembling them.  I understand the logic behind the 
suggestion, but I'm wondering if there is any other grease product that would 
be suitable and might hold up better to exosure to the sun, rain, etc. 
(something as heavy or heavier then wheel bearing grease) and still have the 
electrical conductivity of the litium.  

Doug /n3dab

[Repeater-Builder] OFF TOPIC - DOD Ends Sale of Expended Military Brass to Remanuctures

[n3dab]

This post is OFF TOPIC, but if you value your 2nd Amendment rights you should 
read and act on this as you see fit.  I recieved this from a friend and thought 
it was important enough to make an exception to the rule.  Please let this be 
the only post on this subject on this site as the owner has granted me 
permission to post this item. I apologize for the length of the post and thank 
Kevin for his permission.

DOD Ends Sale of Expended Military Brass to Remanufacturers*

Sunday, March 15, 2009

/AND SO IT BEGINS.../

We all wondered when it was going to start.

When the new administration would make their move against us as gun owners. Oh, 
everyone got upset about HR45--I'll bet I got over 100  e-mails warning me 
about this draconian gun registration bill that had been introduced in Congress.

I was really glad to see Tom Gresham, host of "Gun Talk Radio," an editor, 
writer, television host on "Self-Defense TV," and one of the foremost gun 
spokespersons, come out and tell everyone to stop worrying about legislation so 
absolutely over-the-top--it would never get out of committee.

Tom said save your energy for when we really need it--don't expend it trying to 
warn everyone in your e-mail list about legislation that would go nowhere.

Now, Tom just interviewed me, and Larry Haynie, owner of Georgia Arms 
(www.georgia-arms.com ), on Gun Talk 
(www.guntalk.com )--and Tom agrees, now is the time to 
"...unleash the hounds..." by which he means start e-mailing and writing your 
senators and congressmen.

Now it has come clear...now we know what they intend to do.

It is an end-run around Congress. They don't need to try to ban guns--they 
don't need to fight a massive battle to attempt gun registration, or limit 
"assault" weapon sales.

Nope. All they have to do is limit the amount of ammunition available to the 
civilian market, and when bullets dry up, guns will be useless.

Think we jest?

Here are copies of two letters sent to Georgia Arms just Thursday 
evening--effectively cancelling a contract he had to purchase 30,000 pounds of 
expended military brass in .223, 7.62mm, and .50caliber:

   
/Dear Valued Customer:

Please take a moment to note important changes set forth by the Defense 
Logistics Agency:

Recently it has been determined that fired munitions of all calibers, shapes 
and sizes have been designated to be Demil code B.As a result and in
conjunction with DLA's current Demil code B policy, this notice will serve as 
official notification which requires Scrap Venture (SV) to implement mutilation 
as a condition of sale for all sales of fired munitions effective immediately. 
This notice also requires SV to immediately cease delivery of any fired 
munitions that have been recently sold or on active term contracts, unless the 
material has been mutilated prior to sale or SV personnel can attest to the 
mutilation after delivery. A certificate of destruction is required in either 
case.

Thank you,

DOD Surplus
15051 N Kierland Blvd # 300
Scottsdale, AZ 85254
/

 ** 

 

/March 12, 2009

Larry Haynie
Georgia Arms
PO Box 238
Villa Rica, GA 30180

Re: Event 7084-6200:

Dear Larry Haynie,

Effective immediately DOD Surplus, LLC, will be implementing new requirements 
for mutilation of fired shell casings. The new DRMS requirement calls for DOD 
Surplus personnel to witness the mutilation of the property and sign the 
Certificate of Destruction.  Mutilation of the property can be done at the 
DRMO, if permitted by the Government, or it may be mutilated at a site chosen 
by the buyer. Mutilation means that the property will be destroyed to the 
extent prevents its reuse or reconstruction. DOD Surplus personnel will 
determine when property has been sufficiently mutilated to meet the 
requirements of the Government.

If you do not agree with the new conditions of your spot sale, please sign the 
appropriate box provided below stating that you do not agree to the new terms 
and would like to cancel your purchase effective immediately. If you do agree 
to the new terms please sign in the appropriate box provided below to 
acknowledge your understanding and agreement with the new requirements relating 
to your purchase. Fax the signed document back to (480) 367-1450, emailed 
responses are not acceptable.

Please respond to this request no later than close of business Monday, March 
16th, 2009.

Sincerely,

Government Liquidation.
/

  **   

Got that? From now on, remanufacturers of military brass will not be able to 
buy surplus brass from DOD--actually from Government Liquidators, llc.--the 
corporation that sells surplus materials for the U.S. government. At least, not 
in any form recognizable as once-fired brass ammunition.

Now all brass ammunition will have to be shredded, and sold as scrap

[Repeater-Builder] NHRC-2 controllers

[n3dab]

Anyone out there have any NHRC-2 controllers (preferrably un built in 
kit form) they want to part with.  Please send me an email at "de_n3dab 
AT tds DOT net" with the qty. and price, if you do.  Thanks  Doug N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] DB antenna question

[n3dab]

I'm running out of usable antenna mounting space here and was wondering 
if anyone has tried to do the folloing and with what results :

1. Superimpose a complete set of DB420 elements with the harness on a 
DB224 antenna mast, where both antennas arrays were active and each fed 
by its own rptr./duplexer.  The elements on each band would be offset 
90 degrees from each other. 

2. Split a DB420 and feed the top half and bottom half independently 
with separate feedlines,rptrs and duplexers.  I realize I would lose 
some antenna gain (9.2 Db to 6 Db) and some filter cavities for each 
system might be required. 

3. Super impose a second set of DB420 elements, with independet feed 
line, on an existing DB420 antenna, but offset 90 degrees from the 
original set.

If combining antennas as posed above is practical then I could gain 
additional space for 1 or more additional rptr's. or at least I could 
make the site look a little less cluttered. 

Thanks in advance for any constructive comments. 

Doug  N3DAB/WPRX486/WPJL709   

[Repeater-Builder] DB antenna question

[n3dab]

I'm running out of antenna mounting positions at my site. Has anyone 
tried any of the following ideas and if so what were the results ?  
The intent here is to run 2 rptrs. using a common mast to support 2 
antennas.

1. Mounting the dipoles and harness from a UHF DB420 on the same mast 
as a VHF DB224, or vice versa. (UHF and VHF antennas on the same 
mast)  

2. Mounting the dipoles and harness from a DB420 on the same mast of 
an existing DB420.(2-DB420 UHF antennas on the same mast)

3. Taking an existing DB420 antenna and feeding the upper and lower 
halves with separate feedlines to make 2-6 Db antennas on the same 
mast. The lower harness section would be replaced with with the upper 
harness section from a junk antenna. 

In 1. and 2. the dipoles of each antenna would be at right angles 
to the existing antenna.  In 3. the overall gain of the single 
antenna would be reduced to about 6 Db for the upper and lower 
halves.  Additionally extra filter cavities would probably be 
required to keep the 2 rptrs. using the antennas from interfering 
with each other.

If any of the above ideas are practical this would allow me to recoup 
some additonal mounting positions or at the least reduce the clutter 
of antennas I have now.
 
All constructive comments will be appreciated. 

Doug   N3DAB/WPRX486/WPJL709 

[Repeater-Builder] Maybe a little OT

[n3dab]

I'm putting Echolink on my rptr. I wanted to run the Echo Time program 
also, but found out from KH2D that it is no longer available, since he 
took a lightening strike last July on his system/server or something.  
>From what I gather, he has no plans on reactivating it.  Now i'm 
looking for another program that works like Echo Time and is compatible 
with Echolink.  Does anyone know of a program  that is available ??   
Thanks   Doug /N3DAB  

[Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi tone panels

[n3dab]

Sorry for the typo's but i guess you got the main idea.  You have to 
read between the lines in the manual to find it (that is if you have 
the manual) if not there is one on the RB Site somewhere for the 32 
and super 32. and i know i sent a copy of the 32plus to someone who 
was going to post it also but i still can't find it.  Lots of uck and 
i hope that solved the problem.

Doug  N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Dietrich" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Thanks Doug,
> The 2&3 is what skipp suggested by holding 2&3 then enter.
> This just allows you into the tone translation programming mode and 
you can't make any other changes in the params.
> 
> I didn't even think about trying all of the last 2 digit combo's to 
find the right one, i'll try that.
> 
> Tnx,
> MikeKB5FLX
> Specialized Communications
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: n3dab 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 12:23 PM
>   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi tone 
panels
> 
> 
>   RE your message to Sk8ipp - Its not 2x3 method it is a 3x2 
method. 
>   the first 3 digits are 356 the last 2 are 00 to 99. and you have 
to 
>   triy all of them to find the code it is locked up o( ei: 35600, 
>   35601, 35602, etc.) you also have to wait at least 5 seconds 
between 
>   tries. Once you find the right code then you can enter the 
program 
>   mode and repogram everything including the code.
> 
>   Doug N3DAB 
> 
>   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Dietrich" 
>wrote:
>   >
>   > Thanks for the reply skipp,
>   > I had already seen your site from a google search.
>   > The 2&3 trick only puts the panel in the tone translation mode 
and 
>   you can't change anything else
>   > - Original Message - 
>   > From: skipp025 
>   > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   > Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:21 PM
>   > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi 
tone 
>   panels
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > Mike, 
>   > 
>   > Check out my free web page on the subject... and after reading 
>   > it I can answer questions as I am/was a Service Station for CSI 
>   > Tone Panels. The back door code information is available on the 
>   > page below. 
>   > 
>   > http://www.radiowrench.com/sonic/so02010.html 
>   > 
>   > and check out the Super 32 and CSI Plus information on the 
>   > same sonic page section. 
>   > 
>   > http://www.radiowrench.com/sonic
>   > 
>   > cheers, 
>   > skipp 
>   > 
>   > skipp025 at yahoo.com 
>   > 
>   > > "Mike Dietrich"  wrote:
>   > >
>   > > Hi group,
>   > > Does anyone know of a backdoor code or a way to reset the 
access
>   > code on the CSI-32 (not comm spec) tone panels?
>   > > Any word on where the company went for support?
>   > > They were in Lynnwood, Washington
>   > > 
>   > > Thanks,
>   > > Mike
>   > >
>   >
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Reasonably low wind load antenna

[n3dab]

For anyone looking for a DB mast to mount their dipoles and harness 
on, check out all you commercial radio shops for damaged or pulled DB 
antennas.  Don't worry about what band they are on - all you wan't is 
the mast anyway.  DB's are sleeved internally at the center joint 
with exposed ends of the upper and lower mast sections being cut at a 
45 degree angle.  The sleeve is secured in the top mast section and 
slides into the bottom section about a foot.  the top and bottom are 
secured together with 2 SS hose clamps.  The base is also sleeved 
internally for clamp reinforcement.

Another source would be a metal fabricator or aluminum supplier and 
purchase a 20' section of 1 3/4" 0r 2" heavywall aluminum tube and 
mount your dipoles on it. Wall thickness should be 1/8" thick minimum 
top to bottom.  If you can also pick up a 24" long section of tube to 
slip up into the bottom to reinforce the clamping area all the better.

Doug  N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Cicirello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Ron,
>  
> Thanks for the mounting information. I also lack the DB224 Mast 
that the four dipoles mount on. From my research the original is two 
pieces about twelve feet long that I believe bolt together, the 
diameter I have not been able to find. From the ones I have seen the 
mounting pole is quite robust. Do you have any pole stock that you 
could recommend that would hold the DB224 on a side mount 
configuration? As I recall although the mast was very rigid, it was 
quite lightweight.
>  
> Thanks JIM  KA2AJH
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>   _  
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 12:23 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Reasonably low wind load antenna
>  
> Jim,
> 
> The DB224 is usually supplied with 2 clamps where each clamp 
attaches to the DB224 mast and the other side clamps to the 
tower/mounting pipe. I believe these are made for 2-1/2" pipe.
> 
> At www.tessco.com you can see pictures of these clamps and also 
purchase them although they are not cheap. They are very rugged 
galvanized clamps with 3/8-1/2" bolts 8" or so long and nuts.
> 
> I would recommend looking on e-bay or someone here that might have 
them.
> 
> Another mount is side mounts. For DB224 18" off the tower is 
typical. These have V shaped pieces one at each end of 2 pipes. The V 
is clamped to the tower and the other end the DB224 is clamped. You 
really need 2 mounts for this, one at the bottom and one near the 
top. Usually the top mount is a single pipe with C/U clamps to keep 
the antenna from swaying and the bottom holds the antenna weight.
> 
> The DB 224 can be top mounted without the fear of the swaying in 
the wind damaging it unlike fiberglass antennas. I like putting top 
and bottom mounts when one can, but if top mounted not done for 
obvious reasons (there is no top, hi).
> 
> 73,ron, n9ee/r
> 
> >From: Jim Cicirello <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:ka2ajh%40gmail.com> com>
> >Date: 2008/06/24 Tue AM 11:11:02 EDT
> >To: Repeater-Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com> 
yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Reasonably low wind load antenna
> 
> > 
> >Hi Ron Another Question Please: I was fortunate enough to buy a 
good DB224 without the support mast. After following the opinions on 
wind loading, etc. I am wondering what can be used for a support mast 
and where the masting might be purchased? Any ideas?  Thanks JIM  
KA2AJH   - Original Message - From: Ron Wright To: Repeater-
Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 7:47 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] 
Reasonably low wind load antenna 
> > 
> >Tony,
> >
> >First the Ringo-Ranger does not have the 7 dbi gain. To think a 
smaller 12 ft antenna would have about the same gain as one the size 
of a 4 bay dipole is not realistic. One note of info...antenna 
manufactures, especially from Japan, lie all the time. I would not 
use such harsh words except after years of this junk something needs 
to be said. I is said here on this board all the time for many know 
antenna performance here, hi.
> >
> >Your wind loading limits will require a smaller, lower gain 
antenna. If ice is a problem the Ringo-Ranger will probably not last 
that long.
> >
> >I would recommend going to www.tessco.com, a distributor of 2-way 
gear, and check thru their antenna section. They have a number of 
finnne manufactures with their specs.
> >
> >73, ron, n9ee/r
> >
> >>From: Tony VE6MVP <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:tony%40ve

[Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi tone panels

[n3dab]

RE your message to Sk8ipp - Its not 2x3 method it is a 3x2 method. 
the first 3 digits are 356 the last 2 are 00 to 99. and you have to 
triy all of them to find the code it is locked up o( ei: 35600, 
35601, 35602, etc.) you also have to wait at least 5 seconds between 
tries.  Once you find the right code then you can enter the program 
mode and repogram everything including the code.

Doug  N3DAB   





--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Dietrich" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the reply skipp,
> I had already seen your site from a google search.
> The 2&3 trick only puts the panel in the tone translation mode and 
you can't change anything else
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: skipp025 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:21 PM
>   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi tone 
panels
> 
> 
> 
>   Mike, 
> 
>   Check out my free web page on the subject... and after reading 
>   it I can answer questions as I am/was a Service Station for CSI 
>   Tone Panels. The back door code information is available on the 
>   page below. 
> 
>   http://www.radiowrench.com/sonic/so02010.html 
> 
>   and check out the Super 32 and CSI Plus information on the 
>   same sonic page section. 
> 
>   http://www.radiowrench.com/sonic
> 
>   cheers, 
>   skipp 
> 
>   skipp025 at yahoo.com 
> 
>   > "Mike Dietrich"  wrote:
>   >
>   > Hi group,
>   > Does anyone know of a backdoor code or a way to reset the access
>   code on the CSI-32 (not comm spec) tone panels?
>   > Any word on where the company went for support?
>   > They were in Lynnwood, Washington
>   > 
>   > Thanks,
>   > Mike
>   >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Replacement loops for VHF db cavities

[n3dab]

Think I may have asked this before, but does any one have a source for 
replacement Pass/reject loops for the DB40XX series VHF cavities.  
This would be the loop with the variable Johanson ceramic capaciter 
incorporated for adjusting the Notch. The cavities the loops mount in 
are about 20"+/- tall and 4"+/-in dia. and the loops mount in a recess 
in the top end.  Any info concerning the constructio of same would be 
appreciated also.  73's   Doug  N3DAB  

[Repeater-Builder] Micor repeater encoder and decoder boards

[n3dab]

I'm trying to locate a TLN5731A  PL encoder board and a TRN6002A  PL 
decoder bd. for a UHF Micor Single User Repeater Station.  Any one have 
a working set laying around that they would like to part with ?  If so 
contact me off list please. 

Thanks
Doug  N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Gmrs Repeater

[n3dab]

This in response to shady1070's original question and Gary's reponse.

Unless I've been misinformed for the past 30+ years the maximum 
autorized output power for GMRS is 50 watts from the Xmtr.(Base, 
Mobile and Repeater).  There are power limitations on the 
interstitial freqs. but Repeaters are only permitted on the 8 
designated pair $62/467.550 thu .725 in 25 KHz steps.   Re: the 
original question about the rptr./controller set up I would suggest 
the Kenwood TKR-850 which has everything in one package Contoller, 
CWid, ctcss/dcs, computer programable, etc. and the Kenwood can be 
reprogammed down to the 440 band.   GMRS rptrs. are not REQUIRED to 
ID, the GMRS user is, however if the all users operate under a single 
authorization/call sign CWid is allowed.  Also, running a beacon type 
messages, voice or CWID, may be construed as non-directed traffic 
(broadcasting) by the FCC.   There are many problems aaociated with 
building and installing a repeater including site 
location/acquisition, types of antennas, feed line, and duplexers to 
name a few.  I believe you have a pretty good learning curve ahead of 
you.  Wher are you located Shady? 

Doug  N3DAB / WPRX486 / WPJL709

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gary <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> well, first off, assuming your repeater is land based and qualifies 
as a
> fixed station (they usually do) then your output power is limited 
to 15
> watts output, CFR Title 47 Part 95.135(d).
> Gary
> 
> shady1070 wrote:
> 
> > I Am looking to put a 40 watt repeater on Gmrs.  I Know very 
little
> > about repeaters.  I am looking for something That is Pc 
Programmable
> > and also my biggest concern is about a controller.  I want A Nice
> > controller that does voice and I want to have the capabilities of 
a
> > phone patch for later use on 440. How do you connect the 
controller to
> > a repeater etc..  Can anybody recommend some stuff and help me 
out.  I
> > cann't find anybody locally that can really halp me with this 
project.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] DB VHF Cavity loop assemblies

[n3dab]

I'm looking for 4 to 6 loop assemblies for replcement on a DB-4048 VHF 
duplexer.  Freq. range not important as I can rebuilb or replace the 
copper loops.  Assembly condition is not critical as long as the SO-239 
threads are good and the assembly will seat in the 1.25" dia. recessed 
hole on the duplexer top plate.  Anyone have any old junk DB cavities 
that you could scavenge the loop assemblies from ?  

Also does anyone have any photos, drawings or assembly details on how 
the loop assembly for the DB4960/4062 is put together (Ie: how is the 
tuning capacitor installed on the loop assembly?) My old catalog phots 
are not very clear. 

TIA for any assistance.

Doug  N3DAB  reply direct to "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"

[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR-750 rptr.

[n3dab]

Can the tpye 1 TKR-750 Rptr. (146-174) be programmed and work on 
144.570 Rx and 145.170 Tx (or even down to 143 to work on the MARS 
freq's.) if they are found to be NTIA compliant.   Or should I really 
be looking for the the Type 2 rptr. (136-150)for this purpose.

Also can anyone name a source or 2 for Kenwood rptrs that would give a 
discount price to Ham Clubs,ARES, etc.  

Thanks
Doug N3DAB 

[Repeater-Builder] Help: need to ID part on PSC-1422 Pwr. Sup.

[n3dab]

Can anyone ID CR101 on the regulator board of a Wilson PSC-1422 Power 
Supply.  What ever it was, it is completly burnt up, and I don't have a 
manual or schematic to look it up.

Thanks
Doug N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] Wilson PSC-1422 Power Supply

[n3dab]

Does anyone have any information on a Wilson PSC-1422 power supply ?  
This is a rack mount un metered unit and has the "Astron" name stamped 
on all (3) of the SCR's.  I am curious about the max. and continuous 
duty rating for this unit. and amybe a schematic of it if it varies 
very much from a similar sized Astron PS.  I'm guessing it 22-25 Amps 
max. and 14-15 Amps continuous. Does this sound right ?

Thanks 
Doug  N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] Re: TK-705D problem - slightly OT ?

[n3dab]

keith - I've looked at the jack on the front and there is nothing 
obvious shorting any og the pins.  Checked pins against each other 
and against chassis grd  with vom and no continuity between any 2 
pins.  Only continuity is @ pin 2 and 4 to chassis which should be 
normal as Pin 2 is a direct grd (E)and Pin 4 is Mic. grd (ME).  Any 
other thoughts ?  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Keith McQueen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Did you check for a shorted pin in the mic connector?
>  
>  
> Keith McQueen
> 801-224-9460
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n3dab
> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 3:56 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] TK-705D problem - slightly OT ?
> 
> 
> 
> I am using a TK-705D for the receiver side of a low power 2mtr. 
rptr. 
> The 705 was working fine (Tx and Rx) and was sitting on the 
workbench 
> idling in Rcv. mode ,with no mic. attached and no signal being fed 
into 
> it thru the antenna port, and suddenly went into the TX mode. I 
have 
> powered it on and off, removed it from the rptr. and powered it up 
> indepndent of anything else but it remains locked up in the Tx 
mode. I 
> cannot even do a reset on it as it won't accept the program when I 
> power it up. 
> 
> I have been able to disable the power module and the IC-6 chip that 
> preceeds it and disable the diode Tx/Rx antenna switch to eliminate 
any 
> RF output, but something else inside the circuitry is telling the 
radio 
> to stay in the TX mode. Can anyone advise me how to completely 
> disable the Xmit side, so I can get it back in the Rx mode and 
continue 
> to use it for the rptr. rcvr.? 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any assistance.
> 
> Doug
>

[Repeater-Builder] TK-705D problem - slightly OT ?

[n3dab]

I am using a TK-705D for the receiver side of a low power 2mtr. rptr.  
The 705 was working fine (Tx and Rx) and was sitting on the workbench 
idling in Rcv. mode ,with no mic. attached and no signal being fed into 
it thru the antenna port, and suddenly went into the TX mode.  I have 
powered it on and off, removed it from the rptr. and powered it up 
indepndent of anything else but it remains locked up in the Tx mode.  I 
cannot even do a reset on it as it won't accept the program when I 
power it up.  

I have been able to disable the power module and the IC-6 chip that 
preceeds it and disable the diode Tx/Rx antenna switch to eliminate any 
RF output, but something else inside the circuitry is telling the radio 
to stay in the TX mode.   Can anyone advise me how to completely 
disable the Xmit side, so I can get it back in the Rx mode and continue 
to use it for the rptr. rcvr.? 

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Doug   

[Repeater-Builder] Re: KENWOOD TKR 750 Installation and problems-HELP!!

[n3dab]

I believe it is called "The Natioal Elevator Code" which supplements 
the N.E.C.  and it doesn't permit anything other than elevator 
equipment,wiring and controls in either ther shaft or equipment 
rooms.  

N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> 
> On Oct 30, 2007, at 3:09 AM, skipp025 wrote:
> 
> > ... which is a big Non-Code no-no.   If anything ever happens in
> > those buildings and it's traced back toward pretty much any non-
code
> > installed wire or equipment within the elevator shaft... you will
> > need multi million dollar liability insurance.  It happened to at
> > least one very large Company I know about... now long out of 
business.
> > s.
> 
> What's non-code or dangerous about it?  Last I looked, there's 
very  
> little in the NEC about RF cabling.
> 
> It's considered "low-voltage" and thus, almost "unimportant" in 
most  
> States.
> 
> Of course, the nannies keep passing laws against just about 
anything,  
> so maybe I missed it.
> 
> Genuinely curious (how stupid are our codes now?),
> 
> --
> Nate Duehr, WY0X
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>

[Repeater-Builder] Replacement Ferrite Cores

[n3dab]

Greetings All - Looking for some replacement ferrite cores. Need 2 
sizes: 6mm x 3mm  and 8mm x 4.5mm.  Need a couple of each size. Can 
anyone out there provide a source for these or maybe part with a few 
from the personal stock ??  Thanks 

Doug   N3dab

[Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer

[n3dab]

Since the Question has been raised, I have a Sinclair VHF Q2220E that I 
would like to use on the UHF band. Can any one point me to a mod. page 
or funish info as to how they succesfully modded there Q2220E for 
operation in the UHF band.  I assume the loops and harness would 
require modding but have no idea about the tuning rods, capaciters or 
the aluminum extruded cavities.   

PS : I also posted a noted asking about a source of Motorola T1500 
series passband coupling loops (.5 to 1.0 dB IL). I'm just looking for 
the loops but will take complete can(s) if they are reasonable.

Thanks 
Doug N3DAB 

[Repeater-Builder] UHF T-1500 series pass band loops

[n3dab]

Looking for 2 to 4 sets of pass band loops for UHF (450-470) Motorola 
T1500 series cavities (2 loops per cavity = 1 set). Anyone have any to 
spare ?  If so furnish quantiy and price per set, if applicable.

Doug  N3DAB   

[Repeater-Builder] CSI -32 info for the group (SOT)

[n3dab]

Many months ago I asked the group about a back door method for the 
CSI-32 multi-tone controller panelto enter the progamming mode, as I 
had a friend with a CSI-32 in which the access code was reprogammed 
and the new code had been lost or forgotten.  I recieved several 
replies from the group but nothing seemed to work.  Fortunately we 
were able to pull the chip out of one I had, read and copy copy it 
and insert it into my friends unit to get it working again.  

Below is copy of a procedure that I recently forwarded to another 
friend with a CSI-32 who had a similar prolem, this will work with 
out copying someone elses chip, (The info below should be edited and 
posted in the CSI section of the RB site for future reference.)  This 
may also work on the CSI-32 super and CSI-32Plus as well.

"The link below will take you to the Repeater Builder Website and 
the .PDF file for the CSI- 32 Controller Manual.   
 
If you don't have a copy of the manual, print out a complete copy for 
yourself first.  Then carefully read paragraph 5.10 on resetting the 
Programming Access Code.  The Default setting is"35687".  It states 
that you can only change the last 2 digits of the code, however you 
can also use the A,B and D characters from the 4th row of the DTMF 
pad in the modified the access code string.
 
If you can't enter the program mode using the Default No. 35687 then 
enter "35600" thru "35699" (100 combinations) or "356 A/B/D 0 thru 9" 
(30 combinations) or "356 0 thru 9A/B/D" (30 combinations).  There 
are 160 total combinations.  You must wait 5 seconds between entering 
these combinations.   After you finally locate the correct 
combination to unlock the Controller and place it into the 
programming mode write that number down on a peice of paper, and/or 
reprogram the access code back to the Default No.35687 so you don't 
have to go thru the whole process again if you lose or forget the 
code."

Hope this helps someone else out there who has a CSI controller 
collecting dust because they can't reprogram it.
 
73  Doug  N3DAB 
http://www.repeater-builder.com/other-mfrs/csi-32.pdf
 
  

[Repeater-Builder] Re: WTT or sale Andrew dB224 antenna

[n3dab]

Chuck - Try David Jones K4DLJ>  he is in your general area and does 
tower work.  E-mail k4dlj at bellsouth dot net or look him up QRZ dot 
COM and see if you can find a tele. no. for him in the white pages.  
He may have some tower pulls that will meet your requirements.  I 
pick up a clean DB224E from him about 2 years ago.

Doug  N3DAB / WPRX486



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "chuckmf1135" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, allan crites  
> wrote:
>  Sounds like what im looking for but the shipping would be to 
great. I
> live in N.C. near Charlotte, this antenna breaks down into 2 - 10'
> sections.  I found out UPS will not ship it and that means it would 
> have to go by freight shipping which is unresonable.
> 
> Chuck/N4aeq
> 
> >
> > Have Scala 890-960 Mhz paging antenna & will trade. Appears to 
be  
> model OGB3-900 and is 60" long and I measured VSWR on my N/A of 
1.5:1 
> over 890-990MHz range. Advise further.
> >   
> > 
> > chuckmf1135  wrote:
> >   Have Andrew dB224 4 bay vertical in good condition, 
ready 
> for use in
> > 155-165mhz,was used on 158mhz. Would like to trade for 9xx mhz 
paging
> > antenna or any old Cushman plugin or parts. This is long 21' but 
> breaks
> > down to around 10 foot. Phasing coax in in very good condition 
and has
> > NM connector.
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] wanted ISD1420p Voice chip

[n3dab]

I am looking for 2 or more ISD 1420p voice chips.  Does anyone have any 
they can part with.   Contact me on or off the group with price and 
quantity available if you can help.  TIA

Doug  n3dab @ arrl . net 

[Repeater-Builder] Mitrek mobile repeaters

[n3dab]

Someone posted a message recently saying they had several of the 
Canadian made Motorola Mitrek Mobile Repeaters in service and they were 
used for link radios.   I can't seem to locate that post for some 
reason and would like to contact the person and see if he has any 
service manuals ,etc. for them as I have one of those radios also but 
no info. on it.   Can anyone could give me the message # or furnish 
some contact info.   Thanks for any help.

Doug   N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] Old Sinclair Duplexer

[n3dab]

Anyone have any info on the following VHF duplexer listed below.  The 
data was copied from the label.  It is inside a large enclosure, is 
quite old, but serviceable.  I don'thave the duplexer in my possesion 
at this time so what you see below is all I have. 

I can't find this Model no. on Google, Repeater Builder or the Sinclair 
sites.  

I would like to know what the tuning range is and what type duplexer 
this is (pass/pass-reject/reject ,hybrid ...?).Thanks in advance 
for any help.

Sinclair Radio Lab 
Filter Duplexer 
FL150-4 Serial Number 513-7 
TX 160.950 
RX 161-520 

Doug   N3DAB

[Repeater-Builder] Re: S-Com voting encoder

[n3dab]

Only other info I have is the unit ser. no. and mfg. date of 5-15-
75.  All this and previous info is from mfg's.label on rear of unit. 
The unit has 2-12 pin molex tpye connectors and a 20 position 
terminal strip on the rear. A series of switches and knobs on the 
front control power vol.,squelch,channel etc.  There are no other 
mfg's. id on the unit other than S-Com.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> That's an odd one... but it might be related to the CSC Encoder of 
> which there is a manual on the Repeater Builder web page in the 
voter
> section. 
> 
> When RCA gave up Land Mobile there were a number of smaller 
companies 
> that I consider "off shoots" of their LMR Product Line. Someone out 
> there knows the the history of Coded, Codec, CSC, RCATec, TacTech 
> (might be TacTec or TacTeck (we always called them "tic-tac". Vega 
> Signaling and others... 
> 
> Some of those companies are still around, just merged into larger 
> animals with different names. 
> 
> Some day I'll get those RCA radios out of the back room to see what 
> they do... they looked like GE Master radios and I could bear to 
> see them go into the dumpster when they arrived as trade in... 
> 
> some day... 
> 
> s. 
> 
> > "n3dab"  wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone furnish a copy of the service/operation manual for a S-
Com 
> > voting encoder , Model # VEC-2B, Mfg. by S-Com/TPE in Sun Valley, 
Ca.
> > 
> > TIA for any help.
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE PA numbers

[n3dab]

Thanks Eric, I'll check the RB library as suggested.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> The 19D417524G4 is a 100/110 watt continuous-duty PA for the 150.8-
174 MHz
> band.  See LBI-30282B here:
> 
> 
> 
> The 19D424786G6 is a 65 watt continuous -duty PA for the 138-174 
MHz band.
> See LBI-30748C here:
> 
> 
> 
> 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n3dab
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 7:40 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE PA numbers
> 
> Can anyone ID these GE M2 PA numbers: 417524G4 and 424786G6
> 
> Would like to know if these are VHF or UHF, the freq. range within 
the 
> band and output power. TIA
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE PA numbers

[n3dab]

Thanks for the reply. There appears to be a conflict between your 
reply and the one from Eric which states it is a 65W continuous duty 
vhf PA  and cites the LBI no. for it.  Will have to do more research. 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Butch Kanvick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> The 19D424786G6 is a 40 watt (simplex) UHF power amplifier, and I 
was unable 
> to find the other number.
> I hope this helps, Butch, KE7FEL/r
> 
> 
> From: "n3dab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE PA  numbers
> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2007 03:40:20 -
> 
> Can anyone ID these GE M2 PA numbers: 417524G4 and 424786G6
> 
> Would like to know if these are VHF or UHF, the freq. range within 
the
> band and output power.  TIA
>

[Repeater-Builder] S-Com voting encoder

[n3dab]

Can anyone furnish a copy of the service/operation manual for a S-Com 
voting encoder , Model # VEC-2B, Mfg. by S-Com/TPE in Sun Valley, Ca.

TIA for any help.

[Repeater-Builder] GE PA numbers

[n3dab]

Can anyone ID these GE M2 PA numbers: 417524G4 and 424786G6

Would like to know if these are VHF or UHF, the freq. range within the 
band and output power.  TIA  

[Repeater-Builder] Vertex VXR7000 UHF Service Manual

[n3dab]

Does anyone on the list have a service manual for the UHF Vertex VXR 
7000 Repeater (#E-13689000) that they can part with or copy and mail.  
Thanks in advance.   N3DAB 

[Repeater-Builder] Wanted Micor elements on 443.750 rptr pair

[n3dab]

To the group,

Lookig for good working set of xtaled elements for a Micor Rptr. 
Station. 

I need 1. KXN1052A Tx on 443.750 Mhz and 1. KXN1024A Rx on 448.750 
Mhz.  I will consider just the xtals if thats all you have but prefer 
complete factory or ICC re-xtaled and compensated elements. 

TX Fo = Fc/36 = 12.326388  and for Rx Fo = Fc-11.7/24 = 18.208333

Please contact me off list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you have a good pair of 
pulls just laying around.

N3DAB 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wount To Find Out About Buiding A New Repeter

[n3dab]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> 
>   I question that 9.2 dB antenna, is it actually 9.2 dBd or 9.2 
>  dBi ?? 
> 
>   Neil - WA6KLA 

Neil,

>From the DB products data sheet posted by Steve NU5D it's "dBd".  But 
the work sheet I use doesn't differenciate.  The work sheet is page 2 
of the South East Repater Association (SERA) Fm 03 used for 
coordination purposes. 

See  http://www.sera.org/Form_03_Jan07_2006.pdf 

I use it for reference because it's simple and pretty straight 
forward for some one like me who doesn't have the knowledge and 
experience of others, like yourself.

73
Doug N3DAB

































 







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wount To Find Out About Buiding A New Repeter

[n3dab]

Jim,

First add all the System Gains (SG)in dbW measurements, from that 
figure you then subtract all your Sytem Losses (SL)in dbW, the result 
equals your ERP in dbW.  Convert the ERP in dbW back to ERP in Watts. 

Before you start adding the SG you must convert your Tx output pwr. 
from Watts to dbW. (ie 50w=17.0dbW)  I use a Conversion Table that is 
included in some old Rptr. coord, papers, however you should be able 
to find a conversion table or the mathematical(sp?) formula on Google 
or on one of the Rptr. Bldr. site pages. 

Therefore the following example:

1. 50w Tx out=17.0dbW + ant. gain 9.2 dbW = Tot. SG 26.2dbW

2. Ant. FL lgth. /100 x loss per 100' at you freq band = Tot/FL loss 
in db. (50 /100x1.04 = .52dbW (1/2"LDF @ 450mhza=1.04db/100').

3. Duplexer insertion loss = 1.5 dbW

4. Other losses = 0.0dbW

5. Tot. SL (.52+1.5) = 2.02dbW

6. Tot. SG (26.2) - Tot. SL (2.02) = Tot. ERP in dbW (24.18dbW)

7. Convert ERP in dbW back to ERP in Watts (24.18 = 250+ Watts ERP.

Note: Some interpolation of the tables I use is required.

Feedline looses per 100' @ given freq. are generally provided by the 
mfg.  If you would like a copy of my work sheet (Tables included) 
email me direct. 

N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM 

 
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> "n3dab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >You can go to the FCC site and pull Part 95 like I just did and 
read 
> >it for yourself.  
> >
> >I'm running 50w from my Micor rptr. xmtr. with 1.5db loss from a 
MOt. 
> >1504 duplexer into 50' of 1/2' LDF4-50 heliax to a DB410 9.2db 
gain 
> >omni antenna.  This all calculates out to approx. slightly more 
than 
> >250W ERP.  This machine has been in service for at least 25 years 
on 
> >462/467. 675 in the Atlanta Ga. area
> >
> >N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM
> Doug,
> Can you show us your formula for converting power output to ERP? I 
guess, power out(watts) - (1.5db)+(50' of LDF$-50)+9.2db=ERP output.
> 
> More details please.
> Thanks.
> 73's,
> Jim   Kh6jkg.
> 
> 
> __
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wount To Find Out About Buiding A New Repeter

[n3dab]

You can go to the FCC site and pull Part 95 like I just did and read 
it for yourself.  

I'm running 50w from my Micor rptr. xmtr. with 1.5db loss from a MOt. 
1504 duplexer into 50' of 1/2' LDF4-50 heliax to a DB410 9.2db gain 
omni antenna.  This all calculates out to approx. slightly more than 
250W ERP.  This machine has been in service for at least 25 years on 
462/467. 675 in the Atlanta Ga. area

N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Vincent Caruso <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> I didn't think so...
> 
> Johnny wrote:
> > It hasn't changed. Some people get confused about the difference 
between 
> > ERP and straight RF power.
> > Johnny
> > 
> > n3dab wrote:
> >> Last time I checked Part 95 it said 50w max. from the tansmitter 
not 
> >> 50w ERP from the antenna. When did it change?  With the min. 
losses 
> >> for the duplexer,connecters and feedline and max, gain on 
antenna and 
> >> radiation pattern he could achieve 200w ERP or more. 
> >>
> >> Doug N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Vincent Caruso 
 
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Problem #1 is that on 462.675 / 467.675  GMRS you cannot go 
over 50 
> >>> watts ERP  with a proper antenna system you should be able to 
> >> achieve 
> >>
> >>> 50Watts ERP with your current machine.
> >>>
> >>> Problem #2 is that you cannot reverse the input /output on 
repeater 
> >>> pairs since it will wreak all sorts of havoc with co-channel 
users 
> >> and 
> >>
> >>> on GMRS there are probably lots of them.
> >>>
> >>> If you are an emergency response entity that needs that type of 
> >> output 
> >>
> >>> power, why not get a coordinated pair on special emergency or 
in 
> >> the 
> >>
> >>> business band.
> >>>
> >>> National Emergency Assistance Radio Team Headquters wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Date :05-29-2006
> >>>> Time :8:00 PM CST
> >>>> >From :Lige Turner 
> >>>> Repeter-Builder 
> >>>> I,m Am A GMRS Radio Operater
> >>>> And I Would Like More On How 
> >>>> To Build A UHF-FM Land Mobile
> >>>> Radio(LMR)Repeter That Will Put
> >>>> Out 100 Watts ERP Output And Would
> >>>> Work On The Input Frequency 462.675 Mhz
> >>>> CTCSS Tones 141.3 Hz And Output Frequency
> >>>> 467.675 Mhz With A CTCSS Tone 141.3 Hz 
> >>>> And The Repeter Controle I Would Reather
> >>>> Not Have Any DTMF Tone Cods Becose Some
> >>>> One Here In Kansas City Missouri Has A
> >>>> Tone Burst System And Has Try To Get Into
> >>>> My Low Power Repeter Whitch Is Only 25 Watts
> >>>> ERP Low Power Yes This Is For The Emergency
> >>>> Frequency On GMRS Radio My Call Sine KAF-2106
> >>>> And I,M The Head Of A Not-For-Profit Organization
> >>>> National Emergency Assistance Radio Team,Inc.
> >>>> I Will Probley Buy The Parts One At A Time Becose
> >>>> Of How Much The Cost Of What I Need To Build
> >>>> A Good Repeter It May Take A While To Get It On
> >>>> The Air And Shut This 25 Watt ERP Repeter Down
> >>>>
> >>>>Lige Turner KAF-2106 
> >>>>  73 All
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>  
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>  
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
>









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wount To Find Out About Buiding A New Repeter

[n3dab]

Last time I checked Part 95 it said 50w max. from the tansmitter not 
50w ERP from the antenna. When did it change?  With the min. losses 
for the duplexer,connecters and feedline and max, gain on antenna and 
radiation pattern he could achieve 200w ERP or more. 

Doug N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Vincent Caruso <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Problem #1 is that on 462.675 / 467.675  GMRS you cannot go over 50 
> watts ERP  with a proper antenna system you should be able to 
achieve 
> 50Watts ERP with your current machine.
> 
> Problem #2 is that you cannot reverse the input /output on repeater 
> pairs since it will wreak all sorts of havoc with co-channel users 
and 
> on GMRS there are probably lots of them.
> 
> If you are an emergency response entity that needs that type of 
output 
> power, why not get a coordinated pair on special emergency or in 
the 
> business band.
> 
> National Emergency Assistance Radio Team Headquters wrote:
> > Date :05-29-2006
> > Time :8:00 PM CST
> >>From :Lige Turner 
> > Repeter-Builder 
> > I,m Am A GMRS Radio Operater
> > And I Would Like More On How 
> > To Build A UHF-FM Land Mobile
> > Radio(LMR)Repeter That Will Put
> > Out 100 Watts ERP Output And Would
> > Work On The Input Frequency 462.675 Mhz
> > CTCSS Tones 141.3 Hz And Output Frequency
> > 467.675 Mhz With A CTCSS Tone 141.3 Hz 
> > And The Repeter Controle I Would Reather
> > Not Have Any DTMF Tone Cods Becose Some
> > One Here In Kansas City Missouri Has A
> > Tone Burst System And Has Try To Get Into
> > My Low Power Repeter Whitch Is Only 25 Watts
> > ERP Low Power Yes This Is For The Emergency
> > Frequency On GMRS Radio My Call Sine KAF-2106
> > And I,M The Head Of A Not-For-Profit Organization
> > National Emergency Assistance Radio Team,Inc.
> > I Will Probley Buy The Parts One At A Time Becose
> > Of How Much The Cost Of What I Need To Build
> > A Good Repeter It May Take A While To Get It On
> > The Air And Shut This 25 Watt ERP Repeter Down
> > 
> > Lige Turner KAF-2106 
> >   73 All
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
>








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Motorola Service Manuals

[n3dab]

Wanted:  If anyone reading this post has a spare copy or original 
service manual for the following Motorola radios please email me 
direct with what you have and cost plus postage.

Maxtrac UHF/VHF mobile
Mitrek Low Band 30-50mhz
MSF5000 UHF repeater
TEK-5f Test Set

TIA
Doug  N3DAB at ARRL dot NET







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hypothetical dipole antenna question

[n3dab]

Charles,

Sorry for the confusion and being a little dense this evening.   After 
reading your option 3 several more times I see you are saying the same 
thing I said in my arrangement #2.

Again thanks 

Doug  N3DAb
 










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hypothetical dipole antenna question

[n3dab]

Charles,

Thank you for response. It prety much confirms my suspitions but I 
didn't have a modeling program to check it out   My inent was to 
install the dipoles as indicated in my 2nd arrangement 1 E./1 w. and 
2 S. in that order top to bottom.  Your option 1 and 2 are clear but 
I'm not sure I fully understand the arrangement in you 3rd option.  
Can you give me the orientation from top to bottom of the 4 dipoles 
based on the compass bearing each is pointed to, with N. being 0 
degrees for option #3.  

Again thanks and 73

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Charles Miller"  wrote:
>
> Doug,
> 
> I have 3 patterns for you.
> 
> First, If you do not want any signal to go "N"  and the signal 
equal around
> to the South then take the dipoles and place them in a 60 degree
> orientation. The 2 on the top section should be 180 from each other 
to the
> East and West and the 2 on the bottom should set at a 60 degrees. 
The 2
> lower dipoles should be aligned 30 degrees to the east and West of 
the South
> alignment.
> 
> This will give you a fairly good pattern for the area that you want 
to
> cover.
> 
> The second pattern that will work is to place the dipoles in a 70 
degree
> pattern. Using South as the Zero degree alignment, 1 each at 35 
degrees to
> the East and West and the others at 70 degrees past that. This will 
leave a
> 150 degree arc or 75 degrees off North. This will provide a little 
to the
> North but not very much.
> 
> The first or second will work very well. If you need a little more 
to the
> south then take the top at 180 degrees and the bottom towards the 
south at
> 90 degrees. This will give you a little more gain to the South than 
to the
> East and West.
> 
> We had to do this in South Texas to keep a FED signal out of 
Mexico. The
> first is the one we used and it is still in use today.
> 
> Charles Miller
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "n3dab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 1:23 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question
> 
> 
> > 73 to the Group. Since there is a current discusion ongoing 
related to
> > dipole antennas I would appreciate any comments about the 
hypothetical
> > situation below:
> >
> > Asumming a DB224E antenna with 4 dipoles, top mounted on a tower, 
and a
> > coverage area that is a 270 degree arc (E,S and W.) from the 
antenna,
> > the remaing 90 degree segment (N.) being blocked by nearby and 
much
> > higher terrain, what is the best orientation of the dipoles on 
the mast
> > to provide the max. coverage to the 270 degree arc. all other 
things
> > aside.
> >
> > All dipoles aligned on one the S.face of the mast.
> > 2 dipoles facing S., 1 facing E. and 1 facing W.
> > @ facing SSE. and 2 facing SSW.
> > 1 E., 1 SSE., 1 SSW., and 1 W.
> > or some other arrangement
> >
> > TIA
> > Doug  N3DAB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question

[n3dab]

73 to the Group. Since there is a current discusion ongoing related to 
dipole antennas I would appreciate any comments about the hypothetical 
situation below:

Asumming a DB224E antenna with 4 dipoles, top mounted on a tower, and a 
coverage area that is a 270 degree arc (E,S and W.) from the antenna, 
the remaing 90 degree segment (N.) being blocked by nearby and much 
higher terrain, what is the best orientation of the dipoles on the mast 
to provide the max. coverage to the 270 degree arc. all other things 
aside.

All dipoles aligned on one the S.face of the mast.
2 dipoles facing S., 1 facing E. and 1 facing W.
@ facing SSE. and 2 facing SSW.
1 E., 1 SSE., 1 SSW., and 1 W.
or some other arrangement

TIA
Doug  N3DAB








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Henry UHF PA tuning

[n3dab]

Thanks for the input.

Doug

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Henry uses all fixed capacitors in their amps. Whether
> they change values for specific band portions, or
> adjust the coils, is unknown.
> 
> I bought a C100D10R amp from them and asked that it be
> tuned to 444.450 MHz and also wanted female N
> connectors on it. They gave me exactly what I asked
> for and it gives me 80 watts out with 7 watts in, and
> that's going into a duplexer then into an antenna.
> 
> I also had a C80D3 amp on 460-something that I sent to
> them. They removed the pre-driver (turning it into a
> C80D10), tuned it to 444.450, Installed female N
> connectors, and sent it back with a manual and a new
> power cord, all for about $85.
> 
> They seem to be very good answering e-mails, so I'd
> write to them and inquire, but only after verifying
> that the amp is not performing to specs on the bench
> with a good dummy load and adequate drive and power.
> 
> Bob M.
> ==
> --- n3dab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > Greetings to the group,
> > 
> > Does any one have any specific info on retuning a
> > Henry C200D10R UHF 
> > 450-470 rack mount PA into the 440 band ?   The PA
> > requires 5-10w to 
> > produce 100-200w out.  I can see nothing inside that
> > is adjustable, 
> > all the components are fixed value and securely
> > soldered in place.  
> > The only thing that might be adjusted is the spacing
> > of the coils on 
> > 4 wire wound chokes, 2 near the input  and 2 near
> > the output.  
> > 
> > The PA belong to a friend who purchased it used from
> > a 3rd party, had 
> > it shipped to Henry to put on 443.750, and return
> > for use.  A simple 
> > bench test into a 50 ohm dummy load shows that
> > (using a IC2400 mobile 
> > on low power) 8-9w in at 443.750 yields about 45w
> > out but as I 
> > increase the freq. to 462.750 the IC2400 pwr drops
> > to 5-6 w (which I 
> > would expect from from the mobile being out of band)
> > but the PA 
> > output pwr. jumps to over 100w. 
> > 
> > My suspicion is that Henry did nothing but make sure
> > it was working 
> > in the deigned band range(450-470) and slap a new
> > label on it and 
> > send it back.
> > 
> > Will compressing the choke coils closer together
> > make any difference 
> > in the freq. range, or do some of the fixed
> > components need 
> > replacing.  I know the choke compression worked in
> > retuning a ARR 450-
> > 470 preamp to move it to 440 (per ARR directions). 
> > If so, how close 
> > should the coils be spaced ?? 
> > 
> > TIA for any help
> > Doug  N3DAB
> 
> __
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Henry UHF PA tuning

[n3dab]

As stated in the original message this was into a dummy load.  
Reflected pwr. was minimal across all the freq's. 440 to 470. If this 
isnt field correctable it will go back to Henry along with all the 
bench notes.

Doug
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> First thing you need to mention, is did you do this test into an 
antenna or into a dummy load?  If in to an antenna, as the SWR goes 
up, so will the power.  If into a dummy load, then it shows it is 
narrowed for the 450-470 Mhz band, and it would be best to consult 
them about it.  But from what others have said, there amps are very 
broad banded, at least all that I have read.
>
>   Mathew
>   
> 
> n3dab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>   Greetings to the group,
> 
> Does any one have any specific info on retuning a Henry C200D10R 
UHF 
> 450-470 rack mount PA into the 440 band ? The PA requires 5-10w to 
> produce 100-200w out. I can see nothing inside that is adjustable, 
> all the components are fixed value and securely soldered in place. 
> The only thing that might be adjusted is the spacing of the coils 
on 
> 4 wire wound chokes, 2 near the input and 2 near the output. 
> 
> The PA belong to a friend who purchased it used from a 3rd party, 
had 
> it shipped to Henry to put on 443.750, and return for use. A simple 
> bench test into a 50 ohm dummy load shows that (using a IC2400 
mobile 
> on low power) 8-9w in at 443.750 yields about 45w out but as I 
> increase the freq. to 462.750 the IC2400 pwr drops to 5-6 w (which 
I 
> would expect from from the mobile being out of band) but the PA 
> output pwr. jumps to over 100w. 
> 
> My suspicion is that Henry did nothing but make sure it was working 
> in the deigned band range(450-470) and slap a new label on it and 
> send it back.
> 
> Will compressing the choke coils closer together make any 
difference 
> in the freq. range, or do some of the fixed components need 
> replacing. I know the choke compression worked in retuning a ARR 
450-
> 470 preamp to move it to 440 (per ARR directions). If so, how close 
> should the coils be spaced ?? 
> 
> TIA for any help
> Doug N3DAB 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> -
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  
Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Henry UHF PA tuning

[n3dab]

Greetings to the group,

Does any one have any specific info on retuning a Henry C200D10R UHF 
450-470 rack mount PA into the 440 band ?   The PA requires 5-10w to 
produce 100-200w out.  I can see nothing inside that is adjustable, 
all the components are fixed value and securely soldered in place.  
The only thing that might be adjusted is the spacing of the coils on 
4 wire wound chokes, 2 near the input  and 2 near the output.  

The PA belong to a friend who purchased it used from a 3rd party, had 
it shipped to Henry to put on 443.750, and return for use.  A simple 
bench test into a 50 ohm dummy load shows that (using a IC2400 mobile 
on low power) 8-9w in at 443.750 yields about 45w out but as I 
increase the freq. to 462.750 the IC2400 pwr drops to 5-6 w (which I 
would expect from from the mobile being out of band) but the PA 
output pwr. jumps to over 100w. 

My suspicion is that Henry did nothing but make sure it was working 
in the deigned band range(450-470) and slap a new label on it and 
send it back.

Will compressing the choke coils closer together make any difference 
in the freq. range, or do some of the fixed components need 
replacing.  I know the choke compression worked in retuning a ARR 450-
470 preamp to move it to 440 (per ARR directions).  If so, how close 
should the coils be spaced ?? 

TIA for any help
Doug  N3DAB 







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Info wanted on Mitrek VHF rptr.

[n3dab]

73's  to the Group

The following info appears on a MITREK VHF Mobile repeater.  This is 
a factory (Motorola) built product, NOT an after market modified 
mobile radio.   Can anyone provide any information or documentation 
on this repeater ?  Local searches thru Motorola shops have produced 
nothing.

On the ID plate:   Prim. Pwr. 12v   Motorola Canada Ltd.
Doc. No.   109191038X
 MITREK Type JJA   Watt 2-10
Mod. No.   MX23JJA1106BAZ 
Ser. No.   533PKN1018
Motorola Inc. Made in USA

On chasis behind handle:HUD1052CPR
On the PC bd. near Rcvr.elements:   HLD4082BPR
On frame near Tx elements:  HLD1002BPR
On Controller/PL bd.:   TKN9539BAZ
On PA bd.:  HLD4124APR   and   TLD5591BAZ

Label on top cover reads: " Mobile Communications" and has a "AGT" 
logo.  Probably installed by the service shop.

The Rcvr is fed thru the SO239 on the front of the Chasis, the Xmtr 
is fed out a SO239 on the left rear of the heat sink casting and the 
recess for it was part of the casting process.

This repeater appears to function with the standard control head and 
cable, though I don't have the original but have had it bench tested 
for operation.

TIA for any and all help

Doug   N3DAB 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Can anyone identify this?

[n3dab]

rick,

You might try locate a VHF Micor mobile on Ebay, etc.out of Canada, 
They operate alot of VHF equip in the 136-150 band. Most of the 
boardis are intercangeable with the ones in the Micor Base 
Station/Repeater chasis.  I swapped the 150 band Rcvr in my non-
unified  VHF rptr with one from a 136 band mobile. Just plug and 
play.  With a little effort I think you can do the same with the Xmtr 
bds. as well.  My rptr came with a 136 band Xmtr set up. The PA is a 
different story.  Just a thought.

73
Doug   N3DAB



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Rick,
> 
> The front view shows the PA board, which confirms that your Micor 
is a 60
> watt, intermittent duty base station, with a non-unified chassis.  
The
> repeater version has additional shielding and filtering to permit 
duplex
> operation, but many units are able to operate full duplex without 
them.
> However, the cover for the PA is missing and should be replaced.
> 
> The Micor VHF stations were made in four basic splits: 132-142, 142-
150.8,
> 150.8-162, and 162-174 MHz.  Obviously, the 142-150.8 MHz, AKA 
the "M"
> split, is the most desired for 2m application, but the most common 
split
> found on the surplus market is the 150.8-162 MHz split, AKA the "H" 
split.
> There are bandpass filters in the exciter and the PA that are 
different
> between the M and H splits, and may need to be replaced or re-tuned 
to
> perform optimally on 2m.  The RBTIP on this site is a goldmine of
> information for converting a Micor station to 2m.
> 
> Although you did state that the station was already set up for 2m, 
it does
> happen that a group will simply re-crystal the station and find 
that it
> seems to work okay after tuning- but it never performs as well as 
it could
> because of these filters.  It may be that all of those mods have 
already
> been performed, but it never hurts to check!
> 
> 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Stirling
> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 12:18 PM
> To: Rick Stirling; repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Can anyone identify this?
> 
> Resending this ... original email to list apparently didn't make it
> 
> Rick Stirling wrote:
> 
> > Eric,
> >
> > Looks like TLX1666A stamped in the lower left corner of the 
backplane.
> >
> > Also found TRD1803BB and TLN8747A? stamped on receiver frame on 
back 
> > right side.
> >
> > Power Suppy has TPN1110B on it.
> >
> > Here are two overall images of front and back ...
> >
> > http://www.rickster.org/pics/front.jpg
> >
> > http://www.rickster.org/pic/back.jpg
> >
> > The flying leads in the back are connected to a phone patch unit 
that 
> > will be removed. The system is currently working as a 'plain-
jane' 
> > repeater on 147.300 - 147.900 with a Wacom WP-641 duplexer
> >
> > Things are a wee bit slow around here this AM ... my T1 wireless 
went 
> > down overnight and the backup dial-up connection sucks dead 
gerbils!
> >
> > Thanks for the help guys!
> >
> > 73,
> > Rick AE7RS
> >
> > On 3/17/2006 8:33:06 PM, Eric Lemmon ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote:
> > > Rick,
> > >
> > > Offhand, it looks like a 60 watt, intermittent duty base 
station. If it
> > > were a repeater station, there should be shield plates covering 
the
> > > receiver. It might also be a paging station.
> > >
> > > Look for any numbers stamped in black ink along the edges of the
> > > backplane
> > > and on the power supply or on any sheet metal parts. Any string 
of 
> > three
> > > letters and four digits, usually starting with "T", are 
important. Also
> > > look for any tag or label with a number of the form C53RTB3106A 
(the
> > > letters
> > > and numbers may be different) which is the model number. Some 
overall
> > > photos of the front and back will help a lot.
> > >
> > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 6mtr duplexer

[n3dab]

Final post:  Depending on size (dia.) and length you might consider 
getting sheet copper of the appropriate thickness and having a 
sheetmetal fabrication shop cut it and roll it to your dimensions.  
They could also form a lap seam or lock seam where the 2 edges meet  
and cut your end plates too.  You might also want to consider 
aluminum, problably cheaper, if you have access to a TIG or heliarc 
welder.  Try a local or area trade school and talk to the welding 
instructor.  They might build what you want just for the student 
practice.

Buenos Noches Doug N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Holm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> For all the looking I've done, I've only ever found one place on 
the web 
> that had 4" or larger copper pipe available.  And it was something 
like 
> 30.00/foot.  Has anyone found better sources for this type of pipe 
for 
> building cavities?
> 
> 73  Paul
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> 
> > If you look around the ham radio web sites, there are many 
articles on
> > making
> > 6 m duplexersw out of copper or aluminum pipe.  Less expensive 
than having
> > to biuy a factory-made one.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Dick
> >
>








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 6mtr duplexer

[n3dab]

Forgot to mention: check with any large plumbing contracors  or at 
large building construction sites where they might be using large 
dia. copper pipe for supply or waste piping. If you find any sites 
where they are using what your looking for they may let you have some 
scrap pieces just for hauling it off. 

Doug  N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Holm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> For all the looking I've done, I've only ever found one place on 
the web 
> that had 4" or larger copper pipe available.  And it was something 
like 
> 30.00/foot.  Has anyone found better sources for this type of pipe 
for 
> building cavities?
> 
> 73  Paul
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> 
> > If you look around the ham radio web sites, there are many 
articles on
> > making
> > 6 m duplexersw out of copper or aluminum pipe.  Less expensive 
than having
> > to biuy a factory-made one.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Dick
> >
>








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 6mtr duplexer

[n3dab]

Check your local or area scrap metal salvage or recycle yards for 
some, also any commercial TV Station Transmitter sites to see if they 
have old sectons off rigid transmission line laying around where they 
might have changed out or upgraded their system.
 
Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Holm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> For all the looking I've done, I've only ever found one place on 
the web 
> that had 4" or larger copper pipe available.  And it was something 
like 
> 30.00/foot.  Has anyone found better sources for this type of pipe 
for 
> building cavities?
> 
> 73  Paul
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> 
> > If you look around the ham radio web sites, there are many 
articles on
> > making
> > 6 m duplexersw out of copper or aluminum pipe.  Less expensive 
than having
> > to biuy a factory-made one.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Dick
> >
>









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola TEK-5 Test Set Manuals

[n3dab]

Do you happen to know the difference between the E and F models ?

Doug N3DAB
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> For those of you looking for a manual for one of the TEK-5 series 
of test
> sets, I have good news and bad news.  The good news is that I can 
identify
> what manuals are needed:
> 
> TEK-5B6881101A77
> TEK-5C6881116A36
> TEK-5E6881121A62
> TEK-5F6881122E56
> 
> The bad news is that the first three (B, C, and E) are no longer 
available
> from Motorola Parts.
> 
> More good news:  The TEK-5F manual IS available, priced at just $ 
1.57!
> Hard to believe...
> 
> 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
>









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Can anyone identify this?

[n3dab]

More pictures, front and back, and part nos. from diferent components  
would help with the ID, but it looks to me like an old version (non-
unified chasis) Micor to me.

Doug N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Rick Stirling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> We have a repeater given to our club. It is more or less in working 
> condition on the 2 meter band. Trouble is there is no controller or 
> id-er, etc.
> 
> http://www.rickster.org/pics/unknown.jpg
> 
> I've been told it is a Compa-Station but I haven't been able to 
> correlate this backplane any of the pictures on repeater-builder.
> 
> Any clues would be appreciated. I'm planing on installing a CommSpec 
> CTCSS TS64DS decoder and the NHRC-4 controller.
> 
> 73,
> Rick AE7RS
>








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola TEK-5E test set, slightly OTT

[n3dab]

Neil,

Thanks for the reply.  The 5 position rotary switch is in the lower 
left corner and the positions are marked "A' thru "E" but no 
reference to reverse readings.  If and when you have the oportunity 
to pull your TEK manuals out and review them I would really 
appreciate knowing what you find out, and possibly getting a copy of 
the manual from you for my files and reference (hard copy thru snail 
mail, email, fax, whatever is convenient for you). 

73 Doug  N3DAB
PS: you can contact me off list at "n3dab @ arrl . net"   




--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> 
>   I have a couple of the earlier TEK-5 metering panels ... when 
>  the Micor test modification is installed, there is, I believe, a 
>  five position rotary switch in place of the 0-10 / 0-20 VDC meter
>  on the lower left hand corner of the earlier panel. 
>   
>   You might try different positions of this switch to obtain the 
>  meter polarity reversal you need. 
> 
>   BTW, I haven't studied either of my TEK-5 metering panels or the
>  associated manuals to determine a correct answer for your 
question. 
> 
>   Batteries not included / your mileage may vary / smoke test to be 
>  performed after the 11 o'clock news. 
> 
>   Hope this helps, 
> 
>   Neil - WA6KLA 
> 
> 
>  Original Message 
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola TEK-5E test set, slightly 
OTT
> Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 22:33:32 -
> 
> >Greetings to the group,
> >
> >I was trying to tune some Mitrek rcvr's. using the service manual 
> >procedure and a TEK-5E test set ( big box with 8 meters on it).  
The 
> >Mitrek manual says to set meters 1 and 2 to "reverse" for some of 
the
> >tuning steps.  Now my problem, there is NO "reverse" switch on 
this 
> >test set, even though the manual says it is one that can be used 
for 
> >Mitreks.  I was used the "C" setting an the selector switch, 
should I
> >have used the "A" setting instead ?  The manual implies that you 
flip
> >a "forward /reverse" switch on the test set.
> >
> >My question is simple.  What is the simplest to provide the 
reverse 
> >meter readings for meters 1 & 2 in this peice of gear. drill the 
box 
> >and install a series of DpDT swicths for each of the required 
meters
> >or are there any other solutions out there.
> >
> >TIA for any helpful info.
> >
> >Doug N3DAB   
> >
>









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Motorola TEK-5E test set, slightly OTT

[n3dab]

Greetings to the group,

I was trying to tune some Mitrek rcvr's. using the service manual 
procedure and a TEK-5E test set ( big box with 8 meters on it).  The 
Mitrek manual says to set meters 1 and 2 to "reverse" for some of the 
tuning steps.  Now my problem, there is NO "reverse" switch on this 
test set, even though the manual says it is one that can be used for 
Mitreks.  I was used the "C" setting an the selector switch, should I 
have used the "A" setting instead ?  The manual implies that you flip 
a "forward /reverse" switch on the test set.

My question is simple.  What is the simplest to provide the reverse 
meter readings for meters 1 & 2 in this peice of gear. drill the box 
and install a series of DpDT swicths for each of the required meters or 
are there any other solutions out there.

TIA for any helpful info.

Doug N3DAB   








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Z matcher info.pdf

[n3dab]

Can you recall where you saw the article and/or did you keep notes of 
the component values for the VHF and UHF caps, coils, etc.  Would 
like to duplicate you efforts if possible.  Thanks

Doug N3DAB at arrl dot net for direct contact


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Cicirello" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> A while back there was an excellent article on making these Z 
Matchers. I
> made two, one VHF, One UHF, they worked well. The only parts were 
two Piston
> Caps, One turn coil between the caps and it was put in an RF tight 
box with
> two RF connectors of your choice. On the home made ones there was 
no circuit
> for the voltmeter. Does anyone know how this voltage is obtained 
from the Z
> Matcher? I would like to incorporate this design so I can remove 
the Power
> Meter and make a final tune.
> 
>  
> 
> 73 JIM  KA2AJH
> 
>  
> 
>   _  
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John J. 
Riddell
> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 11:48 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Z matcher info.pdf
> 
>  
> 
> Here is the "How to" sheet on the Z matcher.
> 
>  
> 
> John VE3AMZ
> 
> 
>  Z matcher info.pdf 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   _  
> 
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS 
> 
>  
> 
> *  Visit your group "Repeater-Builder
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder> " on the web.
>   
> *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
subject=Unsubscribe> 
>   
> *  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service. 
> 
>  
> 
>   _
>








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone Need DB224-E Data?

[n3dab]

Tom,

I'll save your message and if I ever get anything I'll let you know.

73
Doug N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Manning" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Doug
> I also would be appreciative of all measurements looking 
toward 
> modifying a commercial range DB224 to a two meter ham range.  
Thanks.  Tom 
> Manning, AF4UG
> - Original Message - 
> From: "bforestal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 11:18 AM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone Need DB224-E Data?
> 
> 
> > Doug,
> >
> > Please send me the dimensions, I particularly need the harness 
data,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bruce WB6ARE
> >
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Zastrow" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Will do...
> >>
> >> Doug
> >>   - Original Message - 
> >>   From: n3dab
> >>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >>   Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 12:16 PM
> >>   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone Need DB224-E Data?
> >>
> >>
> >>   Yes please, particularly the the complete descriptive 
dimmensions of
> >>   the harness.  Reply on or of the site  Thanks
> >>
> >>   Doug  N3DAB  n3dab at arrl dot net (direct)
> >>
> >>   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Zastrow" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>   wrote:
> >>   > I have a brand-new DB224-E (138-150 MHz cut, Omni Pattern) 
in my
> >>   garage.  Is there anyone who would care for EXACT element 
spacing,
> >>   element length or phasing harness dimensions on this  August, 
2005
> >>   vintage antenna before it goes up on our tower?
> >>   >
> >>   > FYI...  We got the best product and freight pricing from 
Tally
> >>   communications.  We did get a quote from another frequently-
mentioned
> >>   vendor but they were considerably higher and were not able to 
quote
> >>   firm freight to Nebraska.  Obviously, your ship-to location 
and vendor
> >>   relationship may make the opposite true for you.  As always, 
YMMV!
> >>   >
> >>   > Doug
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>








 
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