Re: [RCSE] Histart tales & Lessons
At 11:04 PM 4/18/2005, Jim Deck wrote: - I now ALWAYS do a surface "wiggle" before I launch and ask flying buddies to do the same before they do. One of the early lessons I learned. Before launch, "exercise" the planes servos. It's sort of like a sprinter getting ready to bolt from the blocks. My planes take on a life of their own. :-) I have been lucky, the only hi-start problem I have was when I had a reversed elevator. This before I had a programmable radio. Made a real nice rainbow into the ground. Good news it was repaired and flew again. Another good habit, beginning of day or whenever program is loaded check direction. Steve Meyer SOAR RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Re: Soaring V1 #5511
I have bought from hobby horse always good to deal with and prices are good in most cases. Ron [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [RCSE] New post: hi starts
Looking back, I would never do this again, but I built a Top Flite Antares and installed a captive release towhook on it - I think that's called compounding your problem. Anyway, I was very green, very nervous, and my first couple flights were not much more than hops off the line (at the West Carrollton field for some of you old time Dayton fliers). I eventually got my nerve up, and my brother and I took it out to a large field / parking lot outside of town. Needless to say, the captive release failed to release on the first hard launch I still have the image of this huge (to me, at the time) ship flying control-line style, my brother yelling at me to release... I eventually ended up with the plane flying at me, full speed, about 5 feet off the ground from the far end of the line. I guess I panicked because the last thing I remember of the flight was the plane violently going up and down 5 and 11 feet respectively, pancaking on the parking lot, and pieces of plane sliding to my feet. The way the wing flexed at the end, it almost looked like it was flapping like hell, futilely trying to avoid the pavement. I've done the other big faux pas's, RX off, wrong program, etc, but this one still stands out as my most memorable histart mishap. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
RE: [RCSE] High-Start Story
My story involves the destruction of my first molded ship and a valuable lesson learned. I had this wonderful flying Xantipa, a 127" 16.5 /1.00 high aspect ration sailplane that Skip imported. Weighed a metric ton but really soars well. About 1000 squares and 83 oz. As a new sailplane pilot the ship was so good it put the hurt on the local Emeralds, Makos, Sapphires, Stork, etc. and I didn't know beans about proper setup. The locals are all cambering up their entire trailing edge on their lower aspect ratio AMA TD ships and chiding me about my granny launch setup with only flaps deflected so I decide to get a little more aggressive and bring in the ailerons to make it launch even better. Aft CG, fairly small v-tail, little wind, full camber trailing edge, long skinny wings with narrow chord, high start of moderate tension..ta d..disaster in the making! Hard throw, swerve left, right, left, right then full tip stall with ship instantly inverting at about 75-100 ft. of altitude with me pushing forward to try an inverted pull-out but...forgot to take off the launch camber during this relaxing episode.ship still attached to hi-start and moving toward stake quickly with me pushing to pull out inverted. then entry into the most wicked inverted flat spin you can envision with the hi-start giving the inverted flat spin all kinds of energy and rotational speed due to its ongoing downward pull. Ship probably made 20-30 rotations and then impact and here is the sad part.I think I could have saved it if I would have had the presence of mind to take out the launch camber..but as they say, "I'll never know". Yep.winches are definitely safer when used my knowledgeable pilots. BCNU Bruce Hobbs RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Hi-starts and lessons learned
Greetings all; Well I've mentioned this story several times before and I think it is worth repeating. In my youth, 30 some odd years ago I was much more active in flying than I am today. 99% of my flying was done off of hi-starts. One of my all time favorites was a glider called a J & J Industries American Eagle. It was a 100" 2 channel ship. Well early on, back in those days I'd mount the RX power switch on the outside of the fuse. Not thinking I mounted the switch so it slid forward (to the nose) to turn it on. Well, not paying attention my dad is holding the plane ready to launch. He is gripping the plane with two hands, one in front (in front of the switch) and one hand behind the trailing edge. I'm standing behind the airplane; wiggle the sticks to insure everything is working properly, which it was. I tell my dad to launch, to which he gives the glider a toss and inadvertently sliding his hand along side the nose shutting off the RX. Well there was my glider, now a free-flight headed up the hi-start. The two of us watched a perfect launch. The plane left the line and worked a number of thermals. It was the best flight I'd ever seen this glider ever make! After about 30 minutes the glider started making it descent. It proceeded to fly into a housing development full of VERY LARGE PICTURE WINDOWS!!! Well luck would have it the plane came in and landed into a bunch of rose bushes up along side a fence. I had to get past a very angry dog to retrieve my plane. There was some minor damage that had to be fixed as well as turning the switch around so I wouldn't repeat that again. Lessons learned.. but ya know, that is what makes this hobby great! It is the journey through the years of good and bad times and being able to share the experiences with all. Maybe I'll share an experience I had with an Aquila Grande I built a number of years back Until then, for those guys on the East Coast, enjoy this lovely flying weather. Kurt RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Not a hi-start story but.....
Thanks for the hi-start stories. I've had my share of inverted drag races down the field so reading these doesn't make one feel quite so ridiculous. Not really in the hi-start category but perhaps the most egregious modeling mistake was made when first starting out in soaring (~ 1971). I had just flown away my first real TD ship (a Boucher Bros design - rolled plywood fuselage, dihedral std clas R/E. Forgot the name of it but it was last seen thermaling towards the Angeles Forest north of SBdo. If anyone ever finds it there's an old Kraft brick in it. I miss the plane, don't miss The Brick). The next plane was a challenge - a semi-kit Diamant. Basically you got a glass fusleage and a set of wing plans and that was it. In grad school at Riverside in married student housing (little WWII shacks left over from March AFB) the little back room was my office, shop, etc. So the Diamant wing started to go together back there from sticks and sweat over a period of about a month. Everything was carved from balsa and spruce and it was all from scratch. Finally the day came when the wings structure was done. The pins were pulled, the wings were popped loose from the wax paper and plans, and I held in my hands one of the most beautiful geodesic creations I've ever done. Each wing half was about 55 inches in span. The room was so tight you could barely turn around with them. I called to Adele to come and see this beautiful work of art created by my own clumsy hands. She was busy out in the kitchen and told me to bring them out there. So I turned around, mindful of the space needed to clear the walls - and promptly walked through the 30" door frame - rendering the Diamant to a bit under a 2M class wing. - Dave R PS - It was subsequently repaired and flew beautfully for many years. Still have the fuse. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal
Title: flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal OK, this was a mess... I'm uncovering a rudder, and the monokote is seperating from its color - eg, the clear layer comes off, but the color is stuck. It's almost impossible to get off with a blade, is there another technique? My next step usually involves a sanding bar to loosen it up, but if you've got a better way, I'm open. Thanks, B
[RCSE] Another Hi-Start disaster...
Reading all these high start stories has brought back some fond memories of my entry into sailplanes.Ok, well...maybe not so fond!!! After totally destroying my first plane (a GP trainer 40 gas airplane) I decided to step back and start with a glider. At least that way things would move a little more slowly. Thus, my first plane (some 20+ odd years ago now) was a Gentle Lady. I threw it around a football field until I learned how to circle it back to me and keep it level. Then I threw it off a small hill so it would stay up longer for a bit. Didn't know why, but I seemed to get better results on days when there was a light wind (knew nothing about sloping). Finally bought a standard hi-start (from Tower) and put her up. I was amazed at how high it would go, and had many months of just wonderful flying (but very little thermaling. Of course, I didn't realize you could do that back then.) The Sagitta 900 then caught my eye in a Tower ad, and even though it seemed like a fortune at the time, I ordered it up. This kit was so beautiful, everything going together perfectly. I was extremely pleased with the quality and proud of the job I did building it. It was truly (in my opinion) a thing of beauty. I even 'spiced' it up a bit with an airtronics releasable towhook. I could foresee many potential problems here, so paid particular attention to assuring it would release properly. I waited for the perfect day (which, back then, was a warm, overcast windless day) and headed out for the first flights. Tossing it off my hill was a thrill, as it flew so much longer than my gentle lady that I couldn't wait to get it up on the high start. Off to my favorite flat land field, a playfield about 100yds x 200 yds, all grass. Double checked my releasable hook, hooked on and gave it a toss. Now, this was a 'standard' hi-start, which is great for 2-meters, but somewhat lacking for bigger ships. My first launch didn't have nearly the 'umphh' I thought it would have, and the plane stalled about 1/2 way up. But, no problem, hit the release button and I'm clear and flying, albeit somewhat lower than my gentle lady. Did about 6 flights that day, and came home with a great deal of satisfaction with the plane. But, I had an idea!!! I already realized that my gentle lady loaded up and launched higher on windy days. In fact, it would almost go straight up. I knew that a windy day would make the launch of my sagitta much better, and the next day I was going to prove it. Sunday came with 10-15 mph winds ... perfect, I figured, for the bigger plane. Off to my favorite field again. I assembled my plane and hand-tossed it. Everything's fine. Checked the hook ... releasing just perfect. I set up and stretched out my hi-start, and hooked up. Now, the nerves finally set in. Was it too windy? Should I wait for this gust to pass? I probably hooked up, then unhooked and sat and waited for a bit maybe 10-15 times. Every time I would screw up the courage, when I was hooked up ready to go it just didn't feel right, so down I'd go again. I wasn't worried about batteries, so I didn't bother to turn it off during this time. But when a couple walking a dog came strolling down the field, I unhooked and sat down waiting for them to clear. I apparently turned off the plane also. 10 minutes later they were gone, wind was between gusts, and it seemed perfect. I jumped to my feet and picked up my plane, latched on the hi-start, took a deep breath, and away she went. Well, I was right! The wind DID make for a fantastic launch! Almost straight up, to a greater height than I had ever flown. Finally decided to get off, and hit the release ... to no avail. Plane started turning left and I gave it right rudder ... to no avail. I quick looked at my radio to ensure it was on! Nope! Hit the power switch ... ok, now let's fly! Try to turn ... nothing! At that instant I knew that the plane was also off. It had now become a kite on a string, being flown by no one but the little metal stake at the other end of the field. I prayed it would come off hook, but Airtronics made a very secure product, so it dove and looped and gained speed just like you see so many kites do in a heavy wind. It was both thrilling and chilling to watch. After about 30 seconds it started a series of 'circles', with each circle dropping lower and lower, and the plane's speed increasing higher and higher. Eventually it happened. High and low came together into the ground. It was the first time I ever heard a plane 'explode' . It actually looked like a bomb went off when it impacted. Bits and pieces flew everywhere. A dog barked in the distance. My beauty was destroyed. I rustled a garbage bag out of my truck and when out to pick up the pieces (it was left over from my power flying).It all too easily fit, even though it was a small bag. When I wound up my hi-start,
Re: [RCSE] flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal
flourescent monokote / ultracoat removalBrent Put on some gloves get in a well ventilated area and get out the Acetone. Use it liberally and you will be able to pull almost all the color. At the most there will be a light haze left that will not show through the new covering. Be sure to check all glue joints before recovering. Especially if the part was built with CA (Acetone can dissolve CA) Hope this helps Maurice - Original Message - From: Douglas, Brent To: Soaring Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 11:31 AM Subject: [RCSE] flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal OK, this was a mess... I'm uncovering a rudder, and the monokote is seperating from its color - eg, the clear layer comes off, but the color is stuck. It's almost impossible to get off with a blade, is there another technique? My next step usually involves a sanding bar to loosen it up, but if you've got a better way, I'm open. Thanks, B RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Another Hi-Start disaster...
Ahh, the good old days of Hi-start disasters. I had my share of them when I started out with my trusty GP 2M spirit, which I still have and will keep for my son to learn on! I remember being soo excited when I bought my hi-start and now had a means to launch my plane without flying up on a slope. No one told me the proper way to use this device. I pulled back on it and hooked up my new freshly built balsa 2M spirit... did a quick radio check to make sure everything was on! Plane was released and off towards the sky to went, straight up without inputs!!! WITHOUT ANY INPUTS!!! I watched the plane RAINBOW into the ground on the other END!!! Yes, I remember my first hi-start experience!!! Some of us do things the hard way!!! I'm still learning to lauch one of these planes correctly! Thermals to everyone, Edgar "The Soaring Junkie" __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal
Hey now, For me the heat gun works best. Heat up the money-cote and peel it back like you would masking tape. If it's ultra cote this'll work all by it self, if it's mono on the other hand no matter what, you'll have to do some sanding. For some odd reason monokote has the colour and adhesive as more or less one layer whereas ultracote has some seperation between them. Good luck. RobII ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ Erica Frank & Rob CarterII [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Everybody understands Mickey mouse. Few understand Herman Hesse. Hardly anyone understands Albert Einstein. And nobody understands Emperor Norten" -Malaclypse the younger- RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Hobby Horse/Bruce Herider
Re: [RCSE] Any experience with "Hobby Horse"? I'm glad to hear that people are having good experiences with Hobby Horse. Several years ago I was shopping for a JR TX Module. Since Hobby Horse was a JR dealer, but didn't have the module listed in their magazine ad, I called on their toll free line to get a price. Could have used e-mail, but I wanted a price quickly,and didn't want to eat up any savings with long distance phone charges. Instead of getting a price, I received a lecture about how I was not to use their toll free line for anything but ordersthe lecture probably taking almost as much time as it would have to have given me a price. I guess that's their policy---some dealers invite you to "call for price". This experience stuck with me and I never gave them another chance, and probably never will. Bruce Herider
Re: Re: [RCSE] flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal
Guys, I have found that by taking a new scrap of Ultracote and ironing it over the area I want to remove the color from that usually the color will stick to the Ultracote and come right off the wood. The trick is to remove the scrap while it is still warm and to peel it back over itself when pulling it off. Might give it a try, a lot less smelly and messy and safer than Acetone. See Ya, Pat McCleave Wichita, KS > > From: Erica and or Rob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2005/04/19 Tue PM 05:20:05 EDT > CC: Soaring > Subject: Re: [RCSE] flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal > > Hey now, > For me the heat gun works best. Heat up the money-cote and peel it > back like you would masking tape. If it's ultra cote this'll work all by > it self, if it's mono on the other hand no matter what, you'll have to do > some sanding. For some odd reason monokote has the colour and adhesive as > more or less one layer whereas ultracote has some seperation between them. > Good luck. > RobII > ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ > Erica Frank & Rob CarterII > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > "Everybody understands Mickey mouse. > Few understand Herman Hesse. > Hardly anyone understands Albert Einstein. > And nobody understands Emperor Norten" > -Malaclypse the younger- > > RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and > "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and > unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. > Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in > text format > RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal
doug: It has been some time but if I remember right I solved this by doing the following. Take a new piece of monokoat and place it over the color splotch left behind. Heat it with an iron until it sticks. Then pull it off. It will take the old color off with it. Do it to a small area at a time. Good Luck!! Bruce Lewis At 02:31 PM 4/19/2005 -0400, Douglas, Brent wrote: OK, this was a mess... I'm uncovering a rudder, and the monokote is seperating from its color - eg, the clear layer comes off, but the color is stuck. It's almost impossible to get off with a blade, is there another technique? My next step usually involves a sanding bar to loosen it up, but if you've got a better way, I'm open. Thanks, B RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] flourescent monokote / ultracoat removal
I spent a little bit of time giving my impressions of the process of getting monokote off of built up balsa structures to Charlie Waller, who was wanting to strip the brown metallic monokote off of his Oly II to recover in transparent. I thought everyone might be able to relate to parts of this. Ed Jett - Original Message - From: "Ed Jett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Francis Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 5:52 PM Subject: Re: Aquila Grande Charlie, every time I have tried to get Monokote off to recover it has been a huge PITA. That's why I am trying to salvage as much of the Monokote that is on the AG as I can and do just the minimum to it that I can to put "my brand" on it. What I have done in the past (and I really haven't heard of anyone having better success with a "secret" technique) is: 1) Carefully peel as much off as you can trying your best not to let it tear into a lot of pieces. On the top and bottom of the wing, I would try to cut the film spanwise about a half inch or so behind the spar or spoiler structure, just far enough to give me something to grab onto and carefully peel it from there forward and from there to the trailing edge. It will stick and try to tear. No, it will tear. But if it does try to work the tear back toward the other edge of the tear, hopefully leaving some overhanging material to pull back the other way. If you are lucky, it'll all come off. You won't be that lucky. 2) After you get as much off with the careful-as-possible peeling technique as you can, go back an try to work any small tears off in the opposite direction that you were working from in (1). You will get more off, but not all of it. 3) Get the tweezers and Xacto out and carefully worry the remaining small bits off as best you can. You won't get it all. You will find spots where the adhesive has separated from the film and stuck to the wood. If you haven't had a cuss fit yet, you probably will at this point. 4) You can try using some monokote and other film (use small scraps) and sticking the new film to the old adhesive and sometimes it will lift when you pull up the scrap that you ironed to it. All of it won't. 5) Now, you begin to think thoughts such as "What the heck was I thinking?!!!" and "That metallic brown Monokote looked pretty good and it was unique; I've never seen another one like it." 6) Sometimes I have managed to get some of the adhesive to come loose by scraping with the edge of a knife/xacto blade. 7) You will begin to think about finding some transparent brown covering so that the areas, that you missed won't show so badly. You check and nobody makes a transparent brown. 8) Try getting the balance off with judicious use of suitable solvent. Acetone or MEK. Some of it will soak into the wood and stain it. Do this as a last resort because you can't get the stains out. 9) It's finally off. You will now swear that you'll never do this again. It is easier to build a new plane. 10) Your work area looks like a bomb went off in it due to all the little bits of brown monokote all over the place. 11) Recover, in your choice of transparent Monokote. Let me know if your experience is better. If you find that "secret" technique, please let me in on it. Ed RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Another Futaba S3150 question
Having checked the 3150 specs on a few sites, some say you can run it at 6.0v others say only use 4.8v. Has anyone been using 5cell/6.0V pack for these servos? Thanks, Walter RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
RE: [RCSE] Another Futaba S3150 question
Here's the mfgr's web site... http://futaba-rc.com/servos/digitalservos.html > Having checked the 3150 specs on a few sites, some say you > can run it at 6.0v others say only use 4.8v. Has anyone been > using 5cell/6.0V pack for these servos? Thanks, Walter RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Fwd: ICON FOR SALE
I know were he lives, so send me 1000.00 and we will make a deal. I am not afraid of Hans --- Begin Message --- Johnny, Here it is: ICON.NEW IN BOX !!! Have two need only one..1 year wait list.that's right boys...new in box.minus ballast systemincludes custom 1250 5 cell pack.offers starting at 1900.oo (cost price) plus shipping [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- End Message ---
[RCSE] Paging Rich Ness
Rich, please contact me Denny Maize Polecat Aero 717-789-0146 www.polecataero.com
[RCSE] Git'r-Built
Hey guys, Just want to remind you that I'm still build planes fulltime, or I should say installing gear and getting them RTF. Mostly T/D planes, but have done alot of slopers, electric sailplanes, and some electric pylon racers. Let me know what you got and I can give you price. I can send you some pics of my work and referrals. Turn around time is usually just a day or two. Dave Hauch Mich. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Can I. . .with the 9303??
Guys. . .excuse my simple inquiry, but with all the frustrations I had with the 8103, I'm reluctant to take the plunge on the 9303. Nevertheless, I must do something pronto about a brand new Tx and have no time to read extensive manuals and fuss with elaborate programming. Would those of you who have the 9303 that has ailerons and elevator on the right stick and throttle and rudder on the left, please tell me this: Will it be a simple programming matter to operate the two flaps to full down on the throttle stick and have elevator compensation? Will the throttle trim tab then effect both flaps? Can I bypass flipping any switches? Is it simple to get rudder mixed in with ailerons? Is it easy to program for Dual Rates on elevator and ailerons? What kind of running time are you getting on the standard battery pack? That's all I need to fly the Genie, the LT/S or the Genie Pro. The other things can come later. I have no time now to deal with them. have rudder mixed in with ailerons. Question. Will the throttle trim tab then move both flaps?remain The other stuff can come later. Would it be a simple and sure programming procedure to do those things??? Also, does the radio allow independent programming for throw and neutrals of each aileron.of each aileron? (1) use the throttle stick to move both flaps to the full down positioonindependently get each flap to a full down position on the throttle stick? (2) Would the throttle trim tab be functional to simultaneously effect up or down movement of both flaps? (2) dial in down elevator compensation with down flaps? (3) independently program each aileron for throws and differential? (4) Mix rudder in with ailerons? RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
RE: [RCSE] Can I. . .with the 9303??
> Will it be a simple programming matter to operate the two > flaps to full down > on the throttle stick and have elevator compensation? Yes, very easy, straightforward, and covered in the manual. The manual includes a step-by-step programming guide for TD planes. > Will the throttle trim tab then effect both flaps? Throttle (spoiler) trim is recommended disabled for TD. There are two separate digital trim tabs for the wing servos. One adjusts both flaps up & down. The other adjusts both ailerons as flaperons (i.e. both up or both down). Oh, the normal aileron trim tab adjusts the aileron servos as you might expect. > Can I bypass flipping any switches? Not sure what you mean. If you mean, do you have to throw a switch to enable landing mode. No you do not. You have a choice to set up landing flaps with crow and elevator compensation, so it is active in all flight modes. You don't have to use flight modes, if you desire. > Is it simple to get rudder mixed in with ailerons? Yes. There is a predefined mix called AIL->RUD M >Is it easy to program for > Dual Rates on elevator and ailerons? Yes, predefined and straightforward. > What kind of running time are you getting on the standard > battery pack? Don't know, never ran mine down. 600 mah is standard, and manual says 200 mah current draw. Theoritically 2+ hours with plenty of safety margin. > That's all I need to fly the Genie, the LT/S or the Genie > Pro. The other > things can come later. I have no time now to deal with them. If you have owned the 8103, I expect you will find this one a big improvement. John Derstine wrote up an excellent overview of the radio. Good photos of the menus, which you might find helpful. http://www.scalesoaring.net/EMM/9303.htm Jon Stone RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
RE: [RCSE] Can I. . .with the 9303??
Harley, The email address [EMAIL PROTECTED] is bouncing.. Jon RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Who had the Legionair at Toledo
The one on display. I want to put a photo of it in RCSD and forgot who's it was...Jerry Shape maybe? Gordy
[RCSE] Another Hi-Start disaster...
I had one of the worst ever and recently. We fly in a public park and there is a kiddie playground very near by. This weekend I was helping one of our newbies with the highstart, holding it while he was getting his ship ready, when one of the guys yells out.. Oh my gosh! Look at that mom! Apparently there was a 'desperate housewife' in very short shorts and a halter top, thin tanned legs and blond hair sunning herself, stretched on the lawn... She was in the grass out of my vision behind a mini van, and I was stuck holding the highstart! Ruined my day. :-) Dang those histarts!Gordy Louisville this week
Re: [RCSE] Can I. . .with the 9303??
Harley: 1) Yes, super simple to put flaps on the throttle stick with elevator compensation. Just follow the tutorial step by step. Super simple. Not sure about trimming flaps with the throttle trim tab. Never bothered to check as there is a dedicated digital flap trim on the radio now. And no, no flipping switches is necessary to get into landing mode. 2) Yes, simple to program rudder->aileron mix. There is a dedicated mix for that. Dual rates are also simple. 3) Can't say about the battery pack. It was about like the 8103. In any case, I switched to a NoBS 2100mAh NiMh pack. Lasts two days of heavy flying. 4) Programming your Genie will be simple. No need for a user guide like Sherman's one for the 8103. Just crack open the manual that comes with the 9303, go through the step by step tutorial for setting up a sailplane and you'll get it. I programmed my Icon in about an hour. It's a great radio. Be sure you get the sailplane version. Good Luck! --Jim Laurel On Apr 19, 2005, at 7:37 PM, Harley Michaelis wrote: Guys. . .excuse my simple inquiry, but with all the frustrations I had with the 8103, I'm reluctant to take the plunge on the 9303. Nevertheless, I must do something pronto about a brand new Tx and have no time to read extensive manuals and fuss with elaborate programming. Would those of you who have the 9303 that has ailerons and elevator on the right stick and throttle and rudder on the left, please tell me this: Will it be a simple programming matter to operate the two flaps to full down on the throttle stick and have elevator compensation? Will the throttle trim tab then effect both flaps? Can I bypass flipping any switches? Is it simple to get rudder mixed in with ailerons? Is it easy to program for Dual Rates on elevator and ailerons? What kind of running time are you getting on the standard battery pack? That's all I need to fly the Genie, the LT/S or the Genie Pro. The other things can come later. I have no time now to deal with them. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
