Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B using manual start-stop

2018-05-31 Thread Bob kb8tq
Hi

We ran 5335’s in “long gate” mode via the gate open / gate close commands. It 
worked, but you had to 
compensate for rollovers. My guess is that you would run into similar stuff on 
the 5370A. Simple answer
is to try it and see … That’s what we did on the 5335 and then worked through 
all the issues we found. 

Bob

> On May 30, 2018, at 11:19 PM, Perry Sandeen via time-nuts 
>  wrote:
> 
> List,  
> I'd like to do 1000 second TIC measurements with my 5370B but I don't want to 
> have to perchase A HP 1B prologic or similar controller for the timeing.
> 
> As long as I'm interested in the TIC difference but not an absolute value is 
> it reasonable to use the manual start/stop switches and a stop watch or 
> similar timer?
> Regards,
> Perrier
> 
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B using manual start-stop

2018-05-31 Thread Magnus Danielson
Hi Perry,

You should get the upgraded CPU board, since the 6800 of the 5370A/B
will be a limit. It will allow you to get up to those speeds without too
much pain. As added benefit you also get an Ethernet connection to it.

Cheers,
Magnus

On 05/31/2018 05:19 AM, Perry Sandeen via time-nuts wrote:
> List,  
> I'd like to do 1000 second TIC measurements with my 5370B but I don't want to 
> have to perchase A HP 1B prologic or similar controller for the timeing.
> 
> As long as I'm interested in the TIC difference but not an absolute value is 
> it reasonable to use the manual start/stop switches and a stop watch or 
> similar timer?
> Regards,
> Perrier
> 
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> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
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[time-nuts] HP 5370B using manual start-stop

2018-05-30 Thread Perry Sandeen via time-nuts
List,  
I'd like to do 1000 second TIC measurements with my 5370B but I don't want to 
have to perchase A HP 1B prologic or similar controller for the timeing.

As long as I'm interested in the TIC difference but not an absolute value is it 
reasonable to use the manual start/stop switches and a stop watch or similar 
timer?
Regards,
Perrier

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

2013-07-07 Thread Robert Atkinson
My reply did not go to the group  due to finger trouble,

Out of phase drops (bucks) the voltage, in phase boosts it. If you want 
variable 
boost/buck use a center tapped variac across the mains and connect the 
primary (rated at half supply voltage, easy in 240V countries) of the fixed 
transformer between the center tap and winding. 
With a 
resistive load as the voltage is reduced, the load current 
reduces so you can do the sums easily. The units I've used it on are 
constant power so the current increases with reducing voltage. However 
it does not matter as we are not generating power. The POWER is the same
 either side of the transformer (ignoring the small transformer losses),
 only the voltage and current change. The transformer is just supplying 
current, it does not matter if it bucks or boosts the voltage. With 
constant load power and transformer, a buck will have have higher 
current at the supply side, a boost will have lower. With a fixed 
resistance load the situation reverses because the power changes with 
the square of the voltage. The maximum load current is set by the 
current rating of the transformer secondary. This is why you can boost 
say 220V to 230V with a 100VA transformer and drive a 2300VA load 
(10Ax10V =100VA, 10Ax230V=2300VA) Some companies actually market power 
savers
 that are just a buck transformer. These things
 only work with resistive loads, or to a small extent, induction motors.
 
For modern equipment with switch mode power supplies they just increase 
the losses.

On insulation, As others have pointed out, a quality transformer will have 
adequate insulation ratings. and there is less differential than normal between 
primary and secondary. The main issue on conventional transformers would be a 
short secondary to frame. Making sure the frame is grounded an input fused 
caters for this. I used Toroids which were tape wrapped. The metal plate they 
were mounted on is grounded.  At least one machine was subject to an individual 
UL inspection (we were a UK company selling world wide) at MIT (no, not the 
audiophools:-) That I attended. The UL inspector had no problem with the boost 
arrangement which was specifically discussed. We did have an intersting 
discussion on shortwave UV light exposure though. Never ground the top of the 
bolt holding down a toroid, It forms a shorted turn.

Robert G8RPI.




 From: Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au
To: Robert Atkinson robert8...@yahoo.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and 
frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com 
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013, 22:39
Subject: RE: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage
 

How Does that Work Robert?
I mean why out of phase?

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Robert Atkinson
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 12:57 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

Hi Marki, 

Dropping the mains voltage is easy. Get a mains to low voltage transformer. 
Connect the primary across the mains and the secondary in series opposition 
(out of phase) with the mains supply. Foar example a 100VA 12V transformer will 
drop your mains to just under 238V with a maximum load of 8A (the current 
rating of the secondary). 


HTH,
Robert G8RPI.




From: Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com 
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013, 13:25
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB ...


Hi Nigel, 


The only screw type electro can find is 29000uf@10V. it's the same dimensions.
Should I risk the strain on the rectifiers (another 10Kuf is rather a lot)?
Without this timer I am dead in the water so I need to do the right thing 
here...

That's why I posted on the Agilent group too, I need to be sure that I do the 
right thing!

By the way, the failed electro measures 39uf :)

I reckon, the line voltage here is 250v and the equipment is set for 240V, that 
extra 10V on the mains is why I am having so much equipment failure.
Also the Heat sink on the 5370B got so hot I mounted a 5 fan across it to keep 
it at a respectable temperature.

How can I drop the Mains to 240V, I have a boat load of gear that needs to be 
powered concurrently.
(8566A, 8568B, 3585A, 5335A, 5370B, 8901A, etc, powered on together) we are 
starting to talk some serious current there.


-marki


-Original Message-
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB ...

2013-07-07 Thread Bob Smither
On 07/06/2013 07:55 AM, Adrian wrote:
 Mark,

 I wouldn't replace a 20V cap with an only 10V rated one, especially when the
 nominal working voltage is alrady 10V. That would be a very bad idea.
 You can always use caps with higher voltage ratings as replacements which is
 good for reliability, but don't do the other way.

 The exotic values HP was using (17.000 uF) are probably near impossible to
 find, except old stock (not so great with electrolytics) or you go to a
 manufacturer and get them custom made.

There are several on ebay.com.  Search for 17,000 ufd.  Sprague 17,000 ufd at
20 Volts, CD 17,000 ufd at 30 Volts, etc.

-- 
Bob Smither, PhD   Circuit Concepts, Inc.
=
   No man's life, liberty, or property are safe while the legislature
   is in session.
--Mark Twain (1866)
=
smit...@c-c-i.com  http://www.C-C-I.Com  281-331-2744(office)  -4616(fax)

attachment: smither.vcf___
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[time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
I went to use my 5370B todayt and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
sort of pulsing bright one after another.
Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by one.
The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via HPIB.

I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature analyser.

Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has gone kaput?
Has anyone seen this issue before?


-marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the 10811.
The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
Took a look with the scope and instead of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak to 
Peak spike @ 100Hz.
Trying to track down a service manual.
Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was shorted, it would be a lot 
more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able to sink all that current...


-marki


-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Mark C. Stephens
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, 
PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

I went to use my 5370B todayt and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
sort of pulsing bright one after another.
Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by one.
The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via HPIB.

I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature analyser.

Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has gone kaput?
Has anyone seen this issue before?


-marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
C3 (17000uf @ 10v) is open circuit.
Where am I going to get one of those from.

I need some advice here, Should I just use modern low ESR solder lug type 
soldered directly onto the board?
Or Should I try and locate a screw terminal type Capacitor? 

Obviously, I want to do the best for this timer as I rely on it tremendously.


-marki

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Mark C. Stephens
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:47 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the 10811.
The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
Took a look with the scope and instead of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak to 
Peak spike @ 100Hz.
Trying to track down a service manual.
Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was shorted, it would be a lot 
more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able to sink all that current...


-marki


-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Mark C. Stephens
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, 
PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

I went to use my 5370B todayt and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
sort of pulsing bright one after another.
Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by one.
The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via HPIB.

I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature analyser.

Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has gone kaput?
Has anyone seen this issue before?


-marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Azelio Boriani
Electrolytic capacitors: check them on the PSU, usually they are the
first to look for.

On Sat, Jul 6, 2013 at 12:46 PM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au wrote:
 Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the 10811.
 The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
 Took a look with the scope and instead of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak to 
 Peak spike @ 100Hz.
 Trying to track down a service manual.
 Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was shorted, it would be a lot 
 more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able to sink all that 
 current...


 -marki


 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On 
 Behalf Of Mark C. Stephens
 Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
 normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

 I went to use my 5370B todayt and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
 sort of pulsing bright one after another.
 Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by one.
 The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via HPIB.

 I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature analyser.

 Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has gone kaput?
 Has anyone seen this issue before?


 -marki

 ___
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 https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Adrian

sounds quite typical for a dried out electrolytic cap.
Look for the unregulated -10V that goes into the regulator circuit.
Most likely C3 on the power supply motherboard is dead.

Adrian

Mark C. Stephens schrieb:

Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the 10811.
The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
Took a look with the scope and instead of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak to 
Peak spike @ 100Hz.
Trying to track down a service manual.
Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was shorted, it would be a lot 
more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able to sink all that current...


-marki


-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Mark C. Stephens
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, 
PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

I went to use my 5370B todayt and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
sort of pulsing bright one after another.
Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by one.
The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via HPIB.

I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature analyser.

Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has gone kaput?
Has anyone seen this issue before?


-marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB ...

2013-07-06 Thread GandalfG8
As per my reply to the same question on the HP group, you've  identified 
the problem so just go for a reasonably close-ish equivalent and  replace it!
 
Regards
 
Nigel
GM8PZR
 
 
In a message dated 06/07/2013 12:18:44 GMT Daylight Time,  
ma...@non-stop.com.au writes:

C3  (17000uf @ 10v) is open circuit.
Where am I going to get one of those  from.

I need some advice here, Should I just use modern low ESR solder  lug type 
soldered directly onto the board?
Or Should I try and locate a  screw terminal type Capacitor? 

Obviously, I want to do the best for  this timer as I rely on it  
tremendously.


-marki

-Original Message-
From:  time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On 
Behalf Of  Mark C. Stephens
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:47 PM
To: Discussion of  precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B  Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears  to be reading o/k

Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the  10811.
The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
Took a look with the scope and instead  of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak 
to Peak spike @ 100Hz.
Trying to track  down a service manual.
Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was  shorted, it would be a 
lot more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able  to sink all that 
current...


-marki


-Original  Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com  [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On 
Behalf Of Mark C. Stephens
Sent:  Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject:  [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS  scannning and appears to be reading o/k

I went to use my 5370B todayt  and noticed the LEDS on the display are 
slowly sort of pulsing bright one  after another.
Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by  one.
The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via  HPIB.

I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature  analyser.

Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has  gone kaput?
Has anyone seen this issue  before?


-marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB ...

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Hi Nigel, 


The only screw type electro can find is 29000uf@10V. it's the same dimensions.
Should I risk the strain on the rectifiers (another 10Kuf is rather a lot)?
Without this timer I am dead in the water so I need to do the right thing 
here...

That's why I posted on the Agilent group too, I need to be sure that I do the 
right thing!

By the way, the failed electro measures 39uf :)

I reckon, the line voltage here is 250v and the equipment is set for 240V, that 
extra 10V on the mains is why I am having so much equipment failure.
Also the Heat sink on the 5370B got so hot I mounted a 5 fan across it to keep 
it at a respectable temperature.

How can I drop the Mains to 240V, I have a boat load of gear that needs to be 
powered concurrently.
(8566A, 8568B, 3585A, 5335A, 5370B, 8901A, etc, powered on together) we are 
starting to talk some serious current there.


-marki


-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of gandal...@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 9:37 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB ...

As per my reply to the same question on the HP group, you've  identified the 
problem so just go for a reasonably close-ish equivalent and  replace it!
 
Regards
 
Nigel
GM8PZR
 
 
In a message dated 06/07/2013 12:18:44 GMT Daylight Time, ma...@non-stop.com.au 
writes:

C3  (17000uf @ 10v) is open circuit.
Where am I going to get one of those  from.

I need some advice here, Should I just use modern low ESR solder  lug type 
soldered directly onto the board?
Or Should I try and locate a  screw terminal type Capacitor? 

Obviously, I want to do the best for  this timer as I rely on it tremendously.


-marki

-Original Message-
From:  time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of  Mark C. Stephens
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:47 PM
To: Discussion of  precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B  Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears  to be reading o/k

Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the  10811.
The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
Took a look with the scope and instead  of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak to 
Peak spike @ 100Hz.
Trying to track  down a service manual.
Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was  shorted, it would be a lot 
more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able  to sink all that current...


-marki


-Original  Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com  [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Mark C. Stephens
Sent:  Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject:  [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, 
PB LEDS  scannning and appears to be reading o/k

I went to use my 5370B todayt  and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
sort of pulsing bright one  after another.
Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by  one.
The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via  HPIB.

I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature  analyser.

Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has  gone kaput?
Has anyone seen this issue  before?


-marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Correct, C3 (17000uf @ 10v) is measuring 39uf :)
I have a 29000@10V, same dimensions, do you think the rectifiers can hack that 
big fella?
1uf is quite a bit more.
Out of interest, this cap was replaced before, it is not a blue Sprague or 
Mallory but a grey Phillips Cap.


-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Adrian
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 9:19 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

sounds quite typical for a dried out electrolytic cap.
Look for the unregulated -10V that goes into the regulator circuit.
Most likely C3 on the power supply motherboard is dead.

Adrian

Mark C. Stephens schrieb:
 Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the 10811.
 The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
 Took a look with the scope and instead of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak to 
 Peak spike @ 100Hz.
 Trying to track down a service manual.
 Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was shorted, it would be a lot 
 more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able to sink all that 
 current...


 -marki


 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] 
 On Behalf Of Mark C. Stephens
 Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
 normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

 I went to use my 5370B todayt and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
 sort of pulsing bright one after another.
 Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by one.
 The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via HPIB.

 I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature analyser.

 Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has gone kaput?
 Has anyone seen this issue before?


 -marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB ...

2013-07-06 Thread Adrian

Mark,

I wouldn't replace a 20V cap with an only 10V rated one, especially when 
the nominal working voltage is alrady 10V. That would be a very bad idea.
You can always use caps with higher voltage ratings as replacements 
which is good for reliability, but don't do the other way.


The exotic values HP was using (17.000 uF) are probably near impossible 
to find, except old stock (not so great with electrolytics) or you go to 
a manufacturer and get them custom made.
The closest commonly available standard value is 22.000 uF, voltage 
rating at least 20V (25...35V would be great). 15.000 uF would work as 
well if available. For higher reliability you may go for a 105°C model.


Don't care too much about the mounting style. For repeated outdoor use 
and transport you can fix the cap with hot glue and / or binding straps. 
Otherwise I hope your lab isn't moving and shaking enough for the cap to 
loosen... ;)


Adrian

Mark C. Stephens schrieb:

Hi Nigel,


The only screw type electro can find is 29000uf@10V. it's the same dimensions.
Should I risk the strain on the rectifiers (another 10Kuf is rather a lot)?
Without this timer I am dead in the water so I need to do the right thing 
here...

That's why I posted on the Agilent group too, I need to be sure that I do the 
right thing!

By the way, the failed electro measures 39uf :)

I reckon, the line voltage here is 250v and the equipment is set for 240V, that 
extra 10V on the mains is why I am having so much equipment failure.
Also the Heat sink on the 5370B got so hot I mounted a 5 fan across it to keep 
it at a respectable temperature.

How can I drop the Mains to 240V, I have a boat load of gear that needs to be 
powered concurrently.
(8566A, 8568B, 3585A, 5335A, 5370B, 8901A, etc, powered on together) we are 
starting to talk some serious current there.


-marki


-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of gandal...@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 9:37 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB ...

As per my reply to the same question on the HP group, you've  identified the 
problem so just go for a reasonably close-ish equivalent and  replace it!
  
Regards
  
Nigel

GM8PZR
  
  
In a message dated 06/07/2013 12:18:44 GMT Daylight Time, ma...@non-stop.com.au writes:


C3  (17000uf @ 10v) is open circuit.
Where am I going to get one of those  from.

I need some advice here, Should I just use modern low ESR solder  lug type 
soldered directly onto the board?
Or Should I try and locate a  screw terminal type Capacitor?

Obviously, I want to do the best for  this timer as I rely on it tremendously.


-marki

-Original Message-
From:  time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of  Mark C. Stephens
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:47 PM
To: Discussion of  precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B  Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears  to be reading o/k

Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the  10811.
The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
Took a look with the scope and instead  of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak to 
Peak spike @ 100Hz.
Trying to track  down a service manual.
Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was  shorted, it would be a lot 
more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able  to sink all that current...


-marki


-Original  Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com  [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Mark C. Stephens
Sent:  Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject:  [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, 
PB LEDS  scannning and appears to be reading o/k

I went to use my 5370B todayt  and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
sort of pulsing bright one  after another.
Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by  one.
The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via  HPIB.

I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature  analyser.

Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has  gone kaput?
Has anyone seen this issue  before?


-marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Chuck Harris

Mark C. Stephens wrote:

Correct, C3 (17000uf @ 10v) is measuring 39uf :)
I have a 29000@10V, same dimensions, do you think the rectifiers can hack that 
big fella?


Without a blush!

-Chuck Harris

1uf is quite a bit more.

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Chuck Harris

Mark C. Stephens wrote:

Correct, C3 (17000uf @ 10v) is measuring 39uf :)
I have a 29000@10V, same dimensions, do you think the rectifiers can hack that 
big fella?


Without a blush!

Except for the 10V part.  (Which I missed on the first post)

You have to use a capacitor that is at least 2x the operating voltage,
and is also greater than any peak voltages that could occur in the
boundary cases, such as the power line being at the scope's rated
maximum power line voltage.

-Chuck Harris

1uf is quite a bit more.

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB ...

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Yeah, I was looking at the local suppliers and comparing items.
They all seem to stop at 10,000uf for the normal places.
I wonder what CR4 is, It's the -5.2 bridge before C3.
I'd better check it too, must be a reason for the second time that caps failed.
I suppose I could replace CR4 with a higher rated bridge and replace C3 with 
the 29,000uf
Then I'll have prey to the transformer gods for the 8VAC that supplies CR4 
doesn't go open circuit under the strain :)
HP had some odd values for things on occasion, but look at what they achieved 
for 1970-1990...


-marki




-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Adrian
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 10:55 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB ...

Mark,

I wouldn't replace a 20V cap with an only 10V rated one, especially when the 
nominal working voltage is alrady 10V. That would be a very bad idea.
You can always use caps with higher voltage ratings as replacements which is 
good for reliability, but don't do the other way.

The exotic values HP was using (17.000 uF) are probably near impossible to 
find, except old stock (not so great with electrolytics) or you go to a 
manufacturer and get them custom made.
The closest commonly available standard value is 22.000 uF, voltage rating at 
least 20V (25...35V would be great). 15.000 uF would work as well if available. 
For higher reliability you may go for a 105°C model.

Don't care too much about the mounting style. For repeated outdoor use and 
transport you can fix the cap with hot glue and / or binding straps. 
Otherwise I hope your lab isn't moving and shaking enough for the cap to 
loosen... ;)

Adrian

Mark C. Stephens schrieb:
 Hi Nigel,


 The only screw type electro can find is 29000uf@10V. it's the same dimensions.
 Should I risk the strain on the rectifiers (another 10Kuf is rather a lot)?
 Without this timer I am dead in the water so I need to do the right thing 
 here...

 That's why I posted on the Agilent group too, I need to be sure that I do the 
 right thing!

 By the way, the failed electro measures 39uf :)

 I reckon, the line voltage here is 250v and the equipment is set for 240V, 
 that extra 10V on the mains is why I am having so much equipment failure.
 Also the Heat sink on the 5370B got so hot I mounted a 5 fan across it to 
 keep it at a respectable temperature.

 How can I drop the Mains to 240V, I have a boat load of gear that needs to be 
 powered concurrently.
 (8566A, 8568B, 3585A, 5335A, 5370B, 8901A, etc, powered on together) we are 
 starting to talk some serious current there.


 -marki


 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] 
 On Behalf Of gandal...@aol.com
 Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 9:37 PM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
 normally, PB ...

 As per my reply to the same question on the HP group, you've  identified the 
 problem so just go for a reasonably close-ish equivalent and  replace it!
   
 Regards
   
 Nigel
 GM8PZR
   
   
 In a message dated 06/07/2013 12:18:44 GMT Daylight Time, 
 ma...@non-stop.com.au writes:

 C3  (17000uf @ 10v) is open circuit.
 Where am I going to get one of those  from.

 I need some advice here, Should I just use modern low ESR solder  lug type 
 soldered directly onto the board?
 Or Should I try and locate a  screw terminal type Capacitor?

 Obviously, I want to do the best for  this timer as I rely on it tremendously.


 -marki

 -Original Message-
 From:  time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] 
 On Behalf Of  Mark C. Stephens
 Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:47 PM
 To: Discussion of  precise time and frequency measurement
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B  Leds pulsing slowly, buttons 
 selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears  to be reading o/k

 Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the  10811.
 The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
 Took a look with the scope and instead  of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak to 
 Peak spike @ 100Hz.
 Trying to track  down a service manual.
 Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was  shorted, it would be a 
 lot more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able  to sink all that 
 current...


 -marki


 -Original  Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com  [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] 
 On Behalf Of Mark C. Stephens
 Sent:  Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject:  [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
 normally, PB LEDS  scannning and appears to be reading o/k

 I went to use my 5370B todayt  and noticed the LEDS on the display are slowly 
 sort of pulsing bright one  after another.
 Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by  one.
 The strangest thing is that it appears

Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Most of the Caps I have of that size are around ~1/2 the capacitance but twice 
the voltage.
I'll go check the dumpster (...err garage) for some old gear that's due to be 
scrapped.
I am going hate myself if I have to part mule a probably working 8568A/B for a 
some sort of PSU cap.
Yeah, I see your point about the cap voltage, that hadn't occurred in my 
electrolytic candidates to me for some reason!
I'll take that one on-board definitely :)

-marki

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Chuck Harris
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 11:05 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

Mark C. Stephens wrote:
 Correct, C3 (17000uf @ 10v) is measuring 39uf :) I have a 29000@10V, 
 same dimensions, do you think the rectifiers can hack that big fella?

Without a blush!

Except for the 10V part.  (Which I missed on the first post)

You have to use a capacitor that is at least 2x the operating voltage, and is 
also greater than any peak voltages that could occur in the boundary cases, 
such as the power line being at the scope's rated maximum power line voltage.

-Chuck Harris
 1uf is quite a bit more.
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB ...

2013-07-06 Thread GandalfG8
Running load might not be quite as bad as you'd expect, switching them  all 
on at exactly the same time would probably cause a nice fat  pulse but 
perhaps that's a bit extreme:-), allowing an adequate margin  though is always 
a 
good idea.
 
If you could tap into the supply and get an idea of running  current that 
would be a good start, after that it's likely to come  down to an appropriate 
autotransformer, fixed or variable, one of the older  style saturable 
reactance type constant voltage transformers, or perhaps an  online UPS, 
sinusoidal to be preferred, that will handle the input  voltage and regulate 
the 
output.
 
The latter would probably be the best, or easiest anyway, option these  
day, and assuming it meets your voltage and current needs then the off mains  
hold up time, unless you do need that too, probably wouldn't be too  much of 
an issue so that could help keep the cost down.
 
Regards
 
Nigel
GM8PZR
 
 
 
In a message dated 06/07/2013 13:26:06 GMT Daylight Time,  
ma...@non-stop.com.au writes:

I  reckon, the line voltage here is 250v and the equipment is set for 240V, 
that  extra 10V on the mains is why I am having so much equipment failure.
Also  the Heat sink on the 5370B got so hot I mounted a 5 fan across it to 
keep it  at a respectable temperature.

How can I drop the Mains to 240V, I have  a boat load of gear that needs to 
be powered concurrently.
(8566A, 8568B,  3585A, 5335A, 5370B, 8901A, etc, powered on together) we 
are starting to talk  some serious current there.
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB ...

2013-07-06 Thread GandalfG8
You wouldn't even need a UPS, check Google for mains voltage  conditioners.
 
APC's kit, for example, should be available worldwide and they  make a 
range that, here in the UK anyway, starts for under 50  GBP.
 
Regards
 
Nigel
GM8PZR 
 
 
In a message dated 06/07/2013 13:26:06 GMT Daylight Time,  
ma...@non-stop.com.au writes:

I  reckon, the line voltage here is 250v and the equipment is set for 240V, 
that  extra 10V on the mains is why I am having so much equipment failure.
Also  the Heat sink on the 5370B got so hot I mounted a 5 fan across it to 
keep it  at a respectable temperature.

How can I drop the Mains to 240V, I have  a boat load of gear that needs to 
be powered concurrently.
(8566A, 8568B,  3585A, 5335A, 5370B, 8901A, etc, powered on together) we 
are starting to talk  some serious current there.

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Orin Eman
What's the specified tolerance on the 17,000 uF?  You probably have quite a
range to work within.  If you are lucky, they specified something like
+80/-20% and the 29,000 uF might be OK (measure it).


On Sat, Jul 6, 2013 at 4:18 AM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.auwrote:

 C3 (17000uf @ 10v) is open circuit.
 Where am I going to get one of those from.

 I need some advice here, Should I just use modern low ESR solder lug type
 soldered directly onto the board?
 Or Should I try and locate a screw terminal type Capacitor?

 Obviously, I want to do the best for this timer as I rely on it
 tremendously.


 -marki

 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
 Behalf Of Mark C. Stephens
 Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:47 PM
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting
 normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

 Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the 10811.
 The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
 Took a look with the scope and instead of a nice flat DC I see a 4V Peak
 to Peak spike @ 100Hz.
 Trying to track down a service manual.
 Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was shorted, it would be a
 lot more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able to sink all that
 current...


 -marki


 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
 Behalf Of Mark C. Stephens
 Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting
 normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

 I went to use my 5370B todayt and noticed the LEDS on the display are
 slowly sort of pulsing bright one after another.
 Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by one.
 The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via HPIB.

 I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature analyser.

 Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has gone kaput?
 Has anyone seen this issue before?


 -marki

 ___
 time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
 https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
 and follow the instructions there.


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 To unsubscribe, go to
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
How Does that Work Robert?
I mean why out of phase?

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Robert Atkinson
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 12:57 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

Hi Marki, 

Dropping the mains voltage is easy. Get a mains to low voltage transformer. 
Connect the primary across the mains and the secondary in series opposition 
(out of phase) with the mains supply. Foar example a 100VA 12V transformer will 
drop your mains to just under 238V with a maximum load of 8A (the current 
rating of the secondary). 


HTH,
Robert G8RPI.




 From: Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com 
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013, 13:25
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB ...
 

Hi Nigel, 


The only screw type electro can find is 29000uf@10V. it's the same dimensions.
Should I risk the strain on the rectifiers (another 10Kuf is rather a lot)?
Without this timer I am dead in the water so I need to do the right thing 
here...

That's why I posted on the Agilent group too, I need to be sure that I do the 
right thing!

By the way, the failed electro measures 39uf :)

I reckon, the line voltage here is 250v and the equipment is set for 240V, that 
extra 10V on the mains is why I am having so much equipment failure.
Also the Heat sink on the 5370B got so hot I mounted a 5 fan across it to keep 
it at a respectable temperature.

How can I drop the Mains to 240V, I have a boat load of gear that needs to be 
powered concurrently.
(8566A, 8568B, 3585A, 5335A, 5370B, 8901A, etc, powered on together) we are 
starting to talk some serious current there.


-marki


-Original Message-
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Hopefully HP Voltage Derated the Cap as well  so it can handle our 250V here..
We are across the road from the main transformer for the area so the voltage is 
highest at our place, I checked the meter box this morning - it is 255-258V on 
all 3 phases, no wonder I am having problems.


-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Orin Eman
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 2:12 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

What's the specified tolerance on the 17,000 uF?  You probably have quite a 
range to work within.  If you are lucky, they specified something like
+80/-20% and the 29,000 uF might be OK (measure it).


On Sat, Jul 6, 2013 at 4:18 AM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.auwrote:

 C3 (17000uf @ 10v) is open circuit.
 Where am I going to get one of those from.

 I need some advice here, Should I just use modern low ESR solder lug 
 type soldered directly onto the board?
 Or Should I try and locate a screw terminal type Capacitor?

 Obviously, I want to do the best for this timer as I rely on it 
 tremendously.


 -marki

 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] 
 On Behalf Of Mark C. Stephens
 Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:47 PM
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons 
 selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

 Checked the PSU voltages on the PSU card next to the 10811.
 The -5.2 is reading -4.2.
 Took a look with the scope and instead of a nice flat DC I see a 4V 
 Peak to Peak spike @ 100Hz.
 Trying to track down a service manual.
 Any ideas on this one guys, if the Pass tranny was shorted, it would 
 be a lot more than 4.2V unless the overvoltage Zener is able to sink 
 all that current...


 -marki


 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] 
 On Behalf Of Mark C. Stephens
 Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 8:18 PM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
 normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

 I went to use my 5370B todayt and noticed the LEDS on the display are 
 slowly sort of pulsing bright one after another.
 Also all the push button LEDS are going on and off one by one.
 The strangest thing is that it appears to be working o/k via HPIB.

 I don't have extender boards but I do have a signature analyser.

 Could it be something silly like one of the PSU regulator has gone kaput?
 Has anyone seen this issue before?


 -marki

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

2013-07-06 Thread Jim Lux

On 7/6/13 2:39 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:

How Does that Work Robert?
I mean why out of phase?


Then the voltage on the secondary of the buck transformer is subtracted 
from the line voltage.


This is a very common thing commercially where you have what's called a 
buck/boost transformer to adjust the line voltage.  Typically to boost 
it at the end of a long run where resistive drops make the voltage too low.


The low voltage secondary must be big enough to carry the entire load 
current, of course.





-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Robert Atkinson
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 12:57 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

Hi Marki,

Dropping the mains voltage is easy. Get a mains to low voltage transformer. 
Connect the primary across the mains and the secondary in series opposition 
(out of phase) with the mains supply. Foar example a 100VA 12V transformer will 
drop your mains to just under 238V with a maximum load of 8A (the current 
rating of the secondary).


HTH,
Robert G8RPI.



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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Jim Lux

On 7/6/13 2:46 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:

Hopefully HP Voltage Derated the Cap as well  so it can handle our
250V here.. We are across the road from the main transformer for the
area so the voltage is highest at our place, I checked the meter box
this morning - it is 255-258V on all 3 phases, no wonder I am having
problems.




Is that nominally 240 phase to neutral/ 415 phase to phase.  typically,
the utility is allowed 10% tolerance.. I see that wikipedia says AS60038
calls out 230V +10% -6% so that's 253 to 216

One thing to be wary of is that the utility supplies voltages at, say, 
120V or 240V (in the US), but utilization equipment (motors, for 
instance) is labeled as 115V or 230V.  This accounts for the 2% voltage 
drop in the branch circuit, among other things.




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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
I just checked the HP manual, most of the linear equipment is specified: 240V 
+5/-10%
So, I am a little over at 258V here ):
I am going to unplug everything until I can get this sorted out.
Can't afford to lose anything more, in both time and spares obtainability.


marki



-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Jim Lux
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 8:01 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

On 7/6/13 2:46 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:
 Hopefully HP Voltage Derated the Cap as well  so it can handle our 
 250V here.. We are across the road from the main transformer for the 
 area so the voltage is highest at our place, I checked the meter box 
 this morning - it is 255-258V on all 3 phases, no wonder I am having 
 problems.



Is that nominally 240 phase to neutral/ 415 phase to phase.  typically, the 
utility is allowed 10% tolerance.. I see that wikipedia says AS60038 calls out 
230V +10% -6% so that's 253 to 216

One thing to be wary of is that the utility supplies voltages at, say, 120V or 
240V (in the US), but utilization equipment (motors, for
instance) is labeled as 115V or 230V.  This accounts for the 2% voltage drop in 
the branch circuit, among other things.



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[time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

2013-07-06 Thread Burt I. Weiner
This is an old trick that I learned many years ago.  By taking a 
transformer, driving its primary from the mains and then feeding that 
transformer's secondary voltage in series (either in phase or out of 
phase) will either add (in phase) voltage to the transformer primary, 
or subtract (out of phase) voltage to the transformer thereby 
reducing the transformer's primary voltage by the amount of the 
buck/boost transformers secondary voltage.  It's important to use a 
transformer for the buck or boost circuit that can handle the amps 
necessary for the particular load.


I often used Healthy filament transformers to do the job.For 
example... At one time I had a Kenwood 820S transceiver that I picked 
up in Japan.  Japan's mains voltage was 100 VAC.  When I got back 
home I needed to get the 120 VAC stepped down to 100 VAC to properly 
run this rig.  What I did was to take a Triad multi-voltage 
Dry-Disk transformer and connect the primary winding across the 120 
VAC mains.  In this case I used the 18 VAC secondary windings and put 
that in series but out of phase, with the Kenwood Radio's 
primary.  This reduced the 120 VAC going into the Kenwood to about 
102 VAC (120V-18V=102 Volts).  Had I connected the Dry-Disk 
transformer's winding in series and in phase I would've had 138 volts.


I hope this helps.

Burt, K6OQK


Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage


How Does that Work Robert?
I mean why out of phase?

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] 
On Behalf Of Robert Atkinson


Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

Hi Marki,

Dropping the mains voltage is easy. Get a mains to low voltage 
transformer. Connect the primary across the mains and the secondary 
in series opposition (out of phase) with the mains supply. Foar 
example a 100VA 12V transformer will drop your mains to just under 
238V with a maximum load of 8A (the current rating of the secondary).



HTH,
Robert G8RPI.


Burt I. Weiner Associates
Broadcast Technical Services
Glendale, California  U.S.A.
b...@att.net
www.biwa.cc
K6OQK 


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Ed Palmer
Check with your power company.  They may be able to switch taps on the 
transformer to reduce the voltage.  I don't know what the situation is 
for you, but in some places power companies can be forced to 
repair/replace equipment that they fry due to faults in their system.


Ed

On 7/6/2013 5:14 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:

I just checked the HP manual, most of the linear equipment is specified: 240V 
+5/-10%
So, I am a little over at 258V here ):
I am going to unplug everything until I can get this sorted out.
Can't afford to lose anything more, in both time and spares obtainability.


marki



-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Jim Lux
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 8:01 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

On 7/6/13 2:46 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:

Hopefully HP Voltage Derated the Cap as well  so it can handle our
250V here.. We are across the road from the main transformer for the
area so the voltage is highest at our place, I checked the meter box
this morning - it is 255-258V on all 3 phases, no wonder I am having
problems.



Is that nominally 240 phase to neutral/ 415 phase to phase.  typically, the 
utility is allowed 10% tolerance.. I see that wikipedia says AS60038 calls out 
230V +10% -6% so that's 253 to 216

One thing to be wary of is that the utility supplies voltages at, say, 120V or 
240V (in the US), but utilization equipment (motors, for
instance) is labeled as 115V or 230V.  This accounts for the 2% voltage drop in 
the branch circuit, among other things.

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Yes that is true in Australia, but one has to prove that it is the utility 
companies fault.
The main problem is we are right across the street for the main transformer for 
the area.
So, the start of the 240V run for the whole neighbourhood basically. 
Our switchbox meter has a voltage function that I checked this morning, the 
voltage is ~255-258V on all 3 phases.
I will give a call to power Co stating this is not no, but I don't like my 
chances.

Boo..


-marki



-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Ed Palmer
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 9:29 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

Check with your power company.  They may be able to switch taps on the 
transformer to reduce the voltage.  I don't know what the situation is for you, 
but in some places power companies can be forced to repair/replace equipment 
that they fry due to faults in their system.

Ed

On 7/6/2013 5:14 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:
 I just checked the HP manual, most of the linear equipment is specified: 240V 
 +5/-10%
 So, I am a little over at 258V here ):
 I am going to unplug everything until I can get this sorted out.
 Can't afford to lose anything more, in both time and spares obtainability.


 marki



 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On 
 Behalf Of Jim Lux
 Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 8:01 AM
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
 normally, PB LEDS scannning and appears to be reading o/k

 On 7/6/13 2:46 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:
 Hopefully HP Voltage Derated the Cap as well  so it can handle our
 250V here.. We are across the road from the main transformer for the
 area so the voltage is highest at our place, I checked the meter box
 this morning - it is 255-258V on all 3 phases, no wonder I am having
 problems.


 Is that nominally 240 phase to neutral/ 415 phase to phase.  typically, the 
 utility is allowed 10% tolerance.. I see that wikipedia says AS60038 calls 
 out 230V +10% -6% so that's 253 to 216

 One thing to be wary of is that the utility supplies voltages at, say, 120V 
 or 240V (in the US), but utilization equipment (motors, for
 instance) is labeled as 115V or 230V.  This accounts for the 2% voltage drop 
 in the branch circuit, among other things.
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

2013-07-06 Thread Mark C. Stephens
The elephant in the room thing with me is SAFETY :)
I mean, can this be a fire hazard, what about the insulation breakdown on the 
secondary winding etc..

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Burt I. Weiner
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 9:28 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

This is an old trick that I learned many years ago.  By taking a transformer, 
driving its primary from the mains and then feeding that transformer's 
secondary voltage in series (either in phase or out of
phase) will either add (in phase) voltage to the transformer primary, or 
subtract (out of phase) voltage to the transformer thereby reducing the 
transformer's primary voltage by the amount of the buck/boost transformers 
secondary voltage.  It's important to use a transformer for the buck or boost 
circuit that can handle the amps necessary for the particular load.

I often used Healthy filament transformers to do the job.For example... At 
one time I had a Kenwood 820S transceiver that I picked up in Japan.  Japan's 
mains voltage was 100 VAC.  When I got back home I needed to get the 120 VAC 
stepped down to 100 VAC to properly run this rig.  What I did was to take a 
Triad multi-voltage Dry-Disk transformer and connect the primary winding 
across the 120 VAC mains.  In this case I used the 18 VAC secondary windings 
and put that in series but out of phase, with the Kenwood Radio's primary.  
This reduced the 120 VAC going into the Kenwood to about
102 VAC (120V-18V=102 Volts).  Had I connected the Dry-Disk transformer's 
winding in series and in phase I would've had 138 volts.

I hope this helps.

Burt, K6OQK

Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage


How Does that Work Robert?
I mean why out of phase?

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]
On Behalf Of Robert Atkinson

Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

Hi Marki,

Dropping the mains voltage is easy. Get a mains to low voltage 
transformer. Connect the primary across the mains and the secondary in 
series opposition (out of phase) with the mains supply. Foar example a 
100VA 12V transformer will drop your mains to just under 238V with a 
maximum load of 8A (the current rating of the secondary).


HTH,
Robert G8RPI.

Burt I. Weiner Associates
Broadcast Technical Services
Glendale, California  U.S.A.
b...@att.net
www.biwa.cc
K6OQK 

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

2013-07-06 Thread Chuck Harris

Using a common filament transformer as a buck/boost reduces
the insulation requirement between the primary and secondary.
It does this by connecting the primary to the secondary.

-Chuck Harris


Mark C. Stephens wrote:

The elephant in the room thing with me is SAFETY :)
I mean, can this be a fire hazard, what about the insulation breakdown on the 
secondary winding etc..

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

2013-07-06 Thread Jim Lux

On 7/6/13 5:26 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:

The elephant in the room thing with me is SAFETY :)
I mean, can this be a fire hazard, what about the insulation breakdown on the 
secondary winding etc..




Most transformers have a voltage rating on ALL windings that is greater 
than several times the line voltage (e.g. 600V), and most undergo some 
sort of HiPot test as well, at several kV.


If you're ripping the transformer out of some value engineered low cost 
piece of gear (like a $20 sprinkler timer), you might be worried about 
the LV winding. But anything sold as a standalone transformer.



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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

2013-07-06 Thread Robert LaJeunesse
Marki,

I used an old thyratron filament transformer from a computer tape drive to 
compensate for low line voltage in Detroit. Even though the transformer was 
rated 10A it ran our old room air conditioner just fine. From the core size it 
seemed more like a 200W transformer, and it never gave any problems. So just 
make sure the secondary current rating of the transformer you get exceeds your 
expected load current some and heating should not be a problem. Better yet, 
have it exceed your mains fuse / breaker rating some. 

As for insulation resistance any quality filament transformer will have a 
secondary insulation voltage rating called out, as long as it exceeds the mains 
voltage you should have no concern. Beware of so-called rectifier 
transformers that may not have a published insulation rating, they may not be 
suitable for your task.

For how one company promotes and wires their buck-boost transformers see 
http://www.signaltransformer.com/sites/all/pdf/ICT.pdf

Another possibility is to find a transformer with a 230V primary having a 208V 
tap (not too uncommon in the US). Feed the 230V point, use the 208V tap for 
your loads. Be aware that in this case the transformer would need a primary 
current rating to exceed your your load, so the transformer would be much 
bigger than the filament buck-boost transformer approach.   

And do package things so there are no exposed transformer leads or terminals. 
My transformer had wire leads, I was able to button everything up in a 4 x 4 
x 2 electrical wiring box, and use common 15A pigtail connectors on short 
cables for mains and load.

Good luck,

Bob LaJeunesse




 From: Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com 
Sent: Saturday, July 6, 2013 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...
 

The elephant in the room thing with me is SAFETY :)
I mean, can this be a fire hazard, what about the insulation breakdown on the 
secondary winding etc..



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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

2013-07-06 Thread Randy D. Hunt

On 7/6/2013 5:26 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:

The elephant in the room thing with me is SAFETY :)
I mean, can this be a fire hazard, what about the insulation breakdown on the 
secondary winding etc..

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Burt I. Weiner
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 9:28 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

This is an old trick that I learned many years ago.  By taking a transformer, 
driving its primary from the mains and then feeding that transformer's 
secondary voltage in series (either in phase or out of
phase) will either add (in phase) voltage to the transformer primary, or 
subtract (out of phase) voltage to the transformer thereby reducing the 
transformer's primary voltage by the amount of the buck/boost transformers 
secondary voltage.  It's important to use a transformer for the buck or boost 
circuit that can handle the amps necessary for the particular load.

I often used Healthy filament transformers to do the job.For example... At one time I 
had a Kenwood 820S transceiver that I picked up in Japan.  Japan's mains voltage was 100 VAC.  When 
I got back home I needed to get the 120 VAC stepped down to 100 VAC to properly run this rig.  What 
I did was to take a Triad multi-voltage Dry-Disk transformer and connect the primary 
winding across the 120 VAC mains.  In this case I used the 18 VAC secondary windings and put that 
in series but out of phase, with the Kenwood Radio's primary.  This reduced the 120 VAC going into 
the Kenwood to about
102 VAC (120V-18V=102 Volts).  Had I connected the Dry-Disk transformer's 
winding in series and in phase I would've had 138 volts.

I hope this helps.

Burt, K6OQK


Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage


How Does that Work Robert?
I mean why out of phase?

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]
On Behalf Of Robert Atkinson

Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

Hi Marki,

Dropping the mains voltage is easy. Get a mains to low voltage
transformer. Connect the primary across the mains and the secondary in
series opposition (out of phase) with the mains supply. Foar example a
100VA 12V transformer will drop your mains to just under 238V with a
maximum load of 8A (the current rating of the secondary).


HTH,
Robert G8RPI.

Burt I. Weiner Associates
Broadcast Technical Services
Glendale, California  U.S.A.
b...@att.net
www.biwa.cc
K6OQK

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Check the ARRL Radio AmateurHandbook.  This trick has been around for years.

KI6WAS
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

2013-07-06 Thread Randy D. Hunt

On 7/6/2013 2:39 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:

How Does that Work Robert?
I mean why out of phase?

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Robert Atkinson
Sent: Sunday, 7 July 2013 12:57 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage

Hi Marki,

Dropping the mains voltage is easy. Get a mains to low voltage transformer. 
Connect the primary across the mains and the secondary in series opposition 
(out of phase) with the mains supply. Foar example a 100VA 12V transformer will 
drop your mains to just under 238V with a maximum load of 8A (the current 
rating of the secondary).


HTH,
Robert G8RPI.




  From: Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013, 13:25
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Leds pulsing slowly, buttons selecting 
normally, PB ...
  


Hi Nigel,


The only screw type electro can find is 29000uf@10V. it's the same dimensions.
Should I risk the strain on the rectifiers (another 10Kuf is rather a lot)?
Without this timer I am dead in the water so I need to do the right thing 
here...

That's why I posted on the Agilent group too, I need to be sure that I do the 
right thing!

By the way, the failed electro measures 39uf :)

I reckon, the line voltage here is 250v and the equipment is set for 240V, that 
extra 10V on the mains is why I am having so much equipment failure.
Also the Heat sink on the 5370B got so hot I mounted a 5 fan across it to keep 
it at a respectable temperature.

How can I drop the Mains to 240V, I have a boat load of gear that needs to be 
powered concurrently.
(8566A, 8568B, 3585A, 5335A, 5370B, 8901A, etc, powered on together) we are 
starting to talk some serious current there.


-marki


-Original Message-
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Because, when you wire the secondary in series with the primary out of 
phase, the voltage sum drops.  this is because when thewave in the 
primary is high positive, the wave in the secondary is high negative.  
so a 12 volt transformer will reduce the voltage by 12 volts. If you 
wire them in series, it will add 12 volts.  It is nothing more than an 
auto-transformer.


KI6WAS
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B dropping mains voltage...

2013-07-06 Thread Bob Camp
Hi

It's a rare filament transformer that does not have fairly substantial voltage 
ratings on the secondary. They rated them so you could directly heat rectifiers 
off of them. That could / would put the full high voltage winding onto the 
filaments. 

Bob

On Jul 6, 2013, at 9:02 PM, Jim Lux jim...@earthlink.net wrote:

 On 7/6/13 5:26 PM, Mark C. Stephens wrote:
 The elephant in the room thing with me is SAFETY :)
 I mean, can this be a fire hazard, what about the insulation breakdown on 
 the secondary winding etc..
 
 
 
 Most transformers have a voltage rating on ALL windings that is greater than 
 several times the line voltage (e.g. 600V), and most undergo some sort of 
 HiPot test as well, at several kV.
 
 If you're ripping the transformer out of some value engineered low cost piece 
 of gear (like a $20 sprinkler timer), you might be worried about the LV 
 winding. But anything sold as a standalone transformer.
 
 
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[time-nuts] HP 5370B Questions

2013-03-04 Thread Ed Palmer
The recent thread on the 5370B resolution reminded me of a couple of 
questions I have about my unit.  Mine has a bit of a noise problem so I 
thought I'd work through the operator verification tests and a couple of 
the diagnosic flowcharts and see what popped up.  The results turned out 
to be more confusing than enlightening.


In the Operator Verification tests on page 3-12, the format of the 
frequency readings in step 19 don't match the resolution shown in the 
specifications on page 1-3.  The values in Step 19 seem to have one less 
digit than they should have.  e.g.  for the 1 sec. interval they show a 
target of 10.000 000 0XX MHz while my unit displays 10.000 000 000 X 
MHz.  The other values are also short a digit.  Is this a typo in the 
manual?


When I was working through Figure 8-18 (DAC/N0 Logic flowchart), Box 
number 50 towards the left-center of the figure states that I should see 
a result of 10.001 630 MHz.  I don't understand where this number comes 
from since the test is measuring the 10 MHz Ref Out signal.  In any 
case, I'm getting a reading of 10.001 512 MHz.  Is this better than 
spec, worse, or just wrong?


My unit has a serial number prefix of 2732.  The manual is for prefix 
2904.  I looked at the manual backdating pages but didn't see anything 
to explain these items.


Thanks,
Ed

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[time-nuts] HP 5370B is sold

2011-03-14 Thread David Kirkby
I put a post on here a day or two ago saying I had a 5370B for sale.
It has now been sold.


Dave

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[time-nuts] HP 5370B manual - missing page

2011-02-09 Thread Roberto Barrios
Hello,

I’m re-building the User  Service manual for the 53070B counter, cleaning the 
pages and stitching all the schematics so they are easier to read.

I’ve found several different manuals on the internet but all of them are 
missing the page fifth part of page 8-99, which folds out on page 297 of the 
PDF file.

Does anyone have that elusive page?

Regards,
Roberto EB4EQA
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B manual - missing page

2011-02-09 Thread Poul-Henning Kamp
In message bay146-ds4f2c6323b4ea3f3ad2f96b2...@phx.gbl, Roberto Barrios wri
tes:

I belive the pdf file is made from my manual, so presumably that part of
the page should still be physically in it, so if nothing else I can
scan a copy of that...

-- 
Poul-Henning Kamp   | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
p...@freebsd.org | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer   | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B manual - missing page

2011-02-09 Thread Poul-Henning Kamp
In message bay146-ds4f2c6323b4ea3f3ad2f96b2...@phx.gbl, Roberto Barrios wri
tes:

I belive this is the bit you are missing:

http://phk.freebsd.dk/misc/hp5370b-p8-99.pdf


-- 
Poul-Henning Kamp   | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
p...@freebsd.org | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer   | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

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[time-nuts] HP 5370B Output Help Needed

2010-10-27 Thread Perry Sandeen
Distinguished Gents,

As soon as I get my replacement GPS hockey puck antennas, and get my Lucent GPS 
receivers going I want to get into some serious testing and calibration of my 
rubidium and Xtal oscillators.  I plan to run two GPS receivers independently 
into two 5370B TICs simultaneously for cross-checking the measurements.

Here are my problems.

I don’t know how to take data off of the HPIB connector on the back of the 
5370B.

What I want to accomplish is to have the readings go into a computer and be 
graphed.
I don’t have the money to buy some fancy piece of interface equipment like 
Fluke1 on Ebay has and I have no ability to write any type of software program.

I also need a Dummies book or course on how to setup and do Allan variations.

I do have a dedicated computer that I can use for the project.

TIA for any help that can be given on or off line.

Regards,

Perrier



  

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Output Help Needed

2010-10-27 Thread John Miles
To run two 5370Bs at once, you could drive the START inputs of the two counters 
with the 1-pps outputs from your GPIB clocks, and drive each STOP input with 
the opposing clock's 10 MHz output.  With the counters running in their default 
(+TI) mode you should see the 0-100 ns phase difference between each clock on 
the display.  

Getting at the data is a bit complicated, unfortunately, because the only 
turnkey timing/ADEV application I'm aware of (mine) will not let you perform 
more than one simultaneous GPIB acquisition, even if you install multiple 
copies of the program.  You would need two separate Windows PCs; two cheap/used 
laptops would work.  Someone else may have a favorite solution in mind for this 
problem.  

Worst-case, I can tell you how to install two copies of a separate GPIB 
package, and use them to spool the counter readings to two separate files that 
can then be monitored by the timing app.  It will be rather hackish, but it can 
be made to work.

-- john, KE5FX


 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]on
 Behalf Of Perry Sandeen
 Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 9:53 PM
 To: time-nuts-requ...@febo.com
 Subject: [time-nuts] HP 5370B Output Help Needed
 
 
 Distinguished Gents,
 
 As soon as I get my replacement GPS hockey puck antennas, and get 
 my Lucent GPS receivers going I want to get into some serious 
 testing and calibration of my rubidium and Xtal oscillators.  I 
 plan to run two GPS receivers independently into two 5370B TICs 
 simultaneously for cross-checking the measurements.
 
 Here are my problems.
 
 I don’t know how to take data off of the HPIB connector on the 
 back of the 5370B.
 
 What I want to accomplish is to have the readings go into a 
 computer and be graphed.
 I don’t have the money to buy some fancy piece of interface 
 equipment like Fluke1 on Ebay has and I have no ability to write 
 any type of software program.
 
 I also need a Dummies book or course on how to setup and do Allan 
 variations.
 
 I do have a dedicated computer that I can use for the project.
 
 TIA for any help that can be given on or off line.
 
 Regards,
 
 Perrier
 
 
 
   
 
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result

2010-09-15 Thread Charles P. Steinmetz
After cooling and restarting the 5370B and observing its behavior, we 
judged that it was more likely it had an unheated 10811 than an 
oscillator of lower stability, so we popped the lid (the possibility 
that it didn't have a 10811/10544 was the reason for leaving it 
intact so it could be returned).  Sure enough, we found a cold 10811 
and an open thermal fuse.  After replacing the thermal fuse with a 
jumper, all appears normal.  (As others have noted, it appears to me 
that if the heater control failed the crystal and heater would suffer 
major trauma before the thermal fuse opened, so we deemed it superfluous.)


Thank you all for your comments and suggestions!

Charles





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Re: [time-nuts] HP-5370B Running Hot...

2010-09-15 Thread Charles P. Steinmetz

Paul wrote:


Speaking of filters.
   *   *   *
many if not all of the filter material is degenerated.
Its soft and sticky. At a min get rid of it.
My environments clean so I leave them out.
Have never found a replacement. Maybe some home depot air filter.


The HP 5345A manual specifically directs one to remove the filters.

The coarser grades of ScotchBrite pads make good air filters, if 
one determines there is a need and is willing to check them once in a 
while.  The coarser ones I have are decades old and white.  Some 
grades are available at grocery stores as pot-and-pan scrubbers.


Best regards,

Charles






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Re: [time-nuts] HP-5370B Running Hot...

2010-09-15 Thread Chuck Harris

The black/green Scotchbrite pads contain an abrasive which
might be friable.  I am not sure about the white, but they
probably contain something as well.  Just something I worry
about when using non filter materials as filters.

I find that the easiest source of the exact material is in
the passive electrostatic air filters sold at Home Depot,
etc.  They cost about $20 for the large adjustable size, and
you get enough of the material to do many scopes and instruments.

You really have to be careful not to get a filter material
that resists the air flow too greatly.

-Chuck Harris

Charles P. Steinmetz wrote:

Paul wrote:


Speaking of filters.
* * *
many if not all of the filter material is degenerated.
Its soft and sticky. At a min get rid of it.
My environments clean so I leave them out.
Have never found a replacement. Maybe some home depot air filter.


The HP 5345A manual specifically directs one to remove the filters.

The coarser grades of ScotchBrite pads make good air filters, if one
determines there is a need and is willing to check them once in a while.
The coarser ones I have are decades old and white. Some grades are
available at grocery stores as pot-and-pan scrubbers.

Best regards,

Charles


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result

2010-09-15 Thread Neville Michie
The catch with the thermal fuse in an un-plated socket is that as it  
ages the socket oxidises and
the heater current generates enough ohmic heating through a high  
resistance socket
to heat the fuse through its leads. This opens the fuse the next time  
the oven is heated from cold.

I just repaired a 10811 today with the same problem.
Does anyone know the rated temperature for the fuse to drop out?
cheers, Neville Michie


On 15/09/2010, at 8:40 PM, Charles P. Steinmetz wrote:

After cooling and restarting the 5370B and observing its behavior,  
we judged that it was more likely it had an unheated 10811 than an  
oscillator of lower stability, so we popped the lid (the  
possibility that it didn't have a 10811/10544 was the reason for  
leaving it intact so it could be returned).  Sure enough, we found  
a cold 10811 and an open thermal fuse.  After replacing the thermal  
fuse with a jumper, all appears normal.  (As others have noted, it  
appears to me that if the heater control failed the crystal and  
heater would suffer major trauma before the thermal fuse opened, so  
we deemed it superfluous.)


Thank you all for your comments and suggestions!

Charles





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time-nuts

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Re: [time-nuts] HP-5370B Running Hot...

2010-09-15 Thread Stan, W1LE

 The blue Scotch Brite pads also have friable material in them, avoid.

Consider visiting your local HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air 
conditioning) shop

Sheet filter material is commonly available from them,
and it does not deteriorate like the foam stuff.
Review all grades and thicknesses they offer.

Cut to size for your application

Stan,W1LE Cape Cod FN41sr



On 9/15/2010 7:47 AM, Chuck Harris wrote:

The black/green Scotchbrite pads contain an abrasive which
might be friable.  I am not sure about the white, but they
probably contain something as well.  Just something I worry
about when using non filter materials as filters.

I find that the easiest source of the exact material is in
the passive electrostatic air filters sold at Home Depot,
etc.  They cost about $20 for the large adjustable size, and
you get enough of the material to do many scopes and instruments.

You really have to be careful not to get a filter material
that resists the air flow too greatly.

-Chuck Harris

Charles P. Steinmetz wrote:

Paul wrote:


Speaking of filters.
* * *
many if not all of the filter material is degenerated.
Its soft and sticky. At a min get rid of it.
My environments clean so I leave them out.
Have never found a replacement. Maybe some home depot air filter.


The HP 5345A manual specifically directs one to remove the filters.

The coarser grades of ScotchBrite pads make good air filters, if one
determines there is a need and is willing to check them once in a while.
The coarser ones I have are decades old and white. Some grades are
available at grocery stores as pot-and-pan scrubbers.

Best regards,

Charles


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result

2010-09-15 Thread Mike Feher
I believe it is marked on the fuse body, and, possibly may be around 125C.
However it has been a long long time since I have looked at one. Regards -
Mike

Mike B. Feher, N4FS
89 Arnold Blvd.
Howell, NJ, 07731
732-886-5960



-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Neville Michie
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 8:32 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result

The catch with the thermal fuse in an un-plated socket is that as it  
ages the socket oxidises and
the heater current generates enough ohmic heating through a high  
resistance socket
to heat the fuse through its leads. This opens the fuse the next time  
the oven is heated from cold.
I just repaired a 10811 today with the same problem.
Does anyone know the rated temperature for the fuse to drop out?
cheers, Neville Michie


On 15/09/2010, at 8:40 PM, Charles P. Steinmetz wrote:

 After cooling and restarting the 5370B and observing its behavior,  
 we judged that it was more likely it had an unheated 10811 than an  
 oscillator of lower stability, so we popped the lid (the  
 possibility that it didn't have a 10811/10544 was the reason for  
 leaving it intact so it could be returned).  Sure enough, we found  
 a cold 10811 and an open thermal fuse.  After replacing the thermal  
 fuse with a jumper, all appears normal.  (As others have noted, it  
 appears to me that if the heater control failed the crystal and  
 heater would suffer major trauma before the thermal fuse opened, so  
 we deemed it superfluous.)

 Thank you all for your comments and suggestions!

 Charles





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 time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result

2010-09-15 Thread J. L. Trantham
According to my manual, it is HP Part Number 10811-80008, which is described
as UTG Fuse-Thermal 115C 1.0A 250V, in stock at HP for $5.69, available
until gone.  The old part number is 2110-0617.

I presume that means 115 degrees C.

I purchased a few several months ago (price was lower as I recall) then
found some elsewhere, perhaps Mouser, that were close but not exact.

Joe



-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Neville Michie
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 7:32 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result


The catch with the thermal fuse in an un-plated socket is that as it  
ages the socket oxidises and
the heater current generates enough ohmic heating through a high  
resistance socket
to heat the fuse through its leads. This opens the fuse the next time  
the oven is heated from cold.
I just repaired a 10811 today with the same problem.
Does anyone know the rated temperature for the fuse to drop out? cheers,
Neville Michie


On 15/09/2010, at 8:40 PM, Charles P. Steinmetz wrote:

 After cooling and restarting the 5370B and observing its behavior,
 we judged that it was more likely it had an unheated 10811 than an  
 oscillator of lower stability, so we popped the lid (the  
 possibility that it didn't have a 10811/10544 was the reason for  
 leaving it intact so it could be returned).  Sure enough, we found  
 a cold 10811 and an open thermal fuse.  After replacing the thermal  
 fuse with a jumper, all appears normal.  (As others have noted, it  
 appears to me that if the heater control failed the crystal and  
 heater would suffer major trauma before the thermal fuse opened, so  
 we deemed it superfluous.)

 Thank you all for your comments and suggestions!

 Charles





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 time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result

2010-09-15 Thread Mike Feher
Guess my memory was not that bad :). - Mike

Mike B. Feher, N4FS
89 Arnold Blvd.
Howell, NJ, 07731
732-886-5960




-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of J. L. Trantham
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 9:07 AM
To: 'Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement'
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result

According to my manual, it is HP Part Number 10811-80008, which is described
as UTG Fuse-Thermal 115C 1.0A 250V, in stock at HP for $5.69, available
until gone.  The old part number is 2110-0617.

I presume that means 115 degrees C.

I purchased a few several months ago (price was lower as I recall) then
found some elsewhere, perhaps Mouser, that were close but not exact.

Joe



-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Neville Michie
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 7:32 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B - result


The catch with the thermal fuse in an un-plated socket is that as it  
ages the socket oxidises and
the heater current generates enough ohmic heating through a high  
resistance socket
to heat the fuse through its leads. This opens the fuse the next time  
the oven is heated from cold.
I just repaired a 10811 today with the same problem.
Does anyone know the rated temperature for the fuse to drop out? cheers,
Neville Michie


On 15/09/2010, at 8:40 PM, Charles P. Steinmetz wrote:

 After cooling and restarting the 5370B and observing its behavior,
 we judged that it was more likely it had an unheated 10811 than an  
 oscillator of lower stability, so we popped the lid (the  
 possibility that it didn't have a 10811/10544 was the reason for  
 leaving it intact so it could be returned).  Sure enough, we found  
 a cold 10811 and an open thermal fuse.  After replacing the thermal  
 fuse with a jumper, all appears normal.  (As others have noted, it  
 appears to me that if the heater control failed the crystal and  
 heater would suffer major trauma before the thermal fuse opened, so  
 we deemed it superfluous.)

 Thank you all for your comments and suggestions!

 Charles





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Re: [time-nuts] HP-5370B Running Hot...

2010-09-14 Thread Greg Burnett
Good advice Burt.

While we're on the subject of over-heating issues, on instruments with fan 
filters, I'd like to mention the importance to clean their fan filters at 
regular intervals.

See:
http://www.hparchive.com/Bench_Briefs/HP-Bench-Briefs-1995-01-03.pdf

Greg

-

Burt wrote:
...One day whilst I had my back turned on it the pass transistor
in the power supply shorted and in turn took out most of the devices
on the mother board turning the mother board into a wind chime
vane.  I was fortunate enough to find another mother board, replaced
it and it now was up and running again but still too hot in my ongoing 
opinion.

Here's what I discovered: On the rear of the HP-3336A are two power
selector switches.  Instead of mine being set to 120 VAC I discovered
they were set to 100 Volts.  I don't know why or how they came to be
set at 100 VAC since the instrument came from a local engineering
firm, not Japan.  Maybe somewhere along the way one of the switches
simply got bumped.  Anyway, it was just one position off from where
the combination should've been set.  Correcting the primary voltage
selector cleared the heat problem and the instrument, with my monster
heatsink, now runs quite cool.  So, for whatever little bit it might
be worth, if you think it's running unusually hot, check the voltage
selector switches on the rear and possibly the primary DC voltages
into the regulators.

clip 


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[time-nuts] HP-5370B Running Hot...

2010-09-14 Thread Burt I. Weiner
I'm not familiar with the 5370B and I may be way off on this, but I 
wanted to pass along some information regarding another piece of HP 
gear that I have which ran pretty hot, too hot in my 
opinion.  Hopefully this will save someone else from the same grief I 
went through.


I have a HP-3336A signal generator.  Shortly after I got it I noticed 
that it was running pretty hot.  I was assured by a few folks that 
they did indeed run hot and not to worry.  I did worry and discovered 
that some of the units had a much beefier heatsink than did 
mine.  I beefed up the heatsink but the instrument still ran pretty 
hot.  One day whilst I had my back turned on it the pass transistor 
in the power supply shorted and in turn took out most of the devices 
on the mother board turning the mother board into a wind chime 
vane.  I was fortunate enough to find another mother board, replaced 
it and it now was up and running again but still too hot in my ongoing opinion.


Here's what I discovered: On the rear of the HP-3336A are two power 
selector switches.  Instead of mine being set to 120 VAC I discovered 
they were set to 100 Volts.  I don't know why or how they came to be 
set at 100 VAC since the instrument came from a local engineering 
firm, not Japan.  Maybe somewhere along the way one of the switches 
simply got bumped.  Anyway, it was just one position off from where 
the combination should've been set.  Correcting the primary voltage 
selector cleared the heat problem and the instrument, with my monster 
heatsink, now runs quite cool.  So, for whatever little bit it might 
be worth, if you think it's running unusually hot, check the voltage 
selector switches on the rear and possibly the primary DC voltages 
into the regulators.


Burt, K6OQK


On Sep 14, 2010, at 3:12 AM, Charles P. Steinmetz 
charles_steinm...@lavabit.com wrote:


 A friend just received an HP 5370B that was said to be properly 
working and accurate, and asked my opinion.  I'm not familiar with 
these, so I thought I'd ask the experts.  All we've done so far is 
hook it to a Tbolt that I know is operating properly.


 The 5370B took hours (8 or so, which seems like a long time for a 
10811) to drift to a reasonably stable reading, a bit over 100 Hz 
high (which seems like an awful lot for a 10811, even after a trip 
across the country ten years since its last calibration).  The 
front-panel oven indicator is off; I did not notice if it was on 
when we first powered it up.  The 5370B reads its own oscillator 
within spec ( 2 mHz error; spec is +/-5 mHz).  We have not opened 
it to tweak the oscillator (or to verify that the 10811 is, in 
fact, still present).


 Timing seems to work OK, giving the expected 100 nS and 50 nS 
figures when I feed the internal oscillator into the start input, 
tie start to stop (START COM), and switch the trigger phase of the 
stop channel.


 Finally, the external heatsink (left rear) runs pretty darn hot 
-- somewhat warmer than you'd really like to leave your hand on, 
which is WAY warmer than I'd ever design.  Concerning (to me), but 
not completely beyond reason.  I suppose it could be normal for 
these.  It didn't burn down or shut off during the 8 hour warmup.


 I appreciate any input from those knowledgeable about the 5370B.

 Thank you,

 Charles



Burt I. Weiner Associates
Broadcast Technical Services
Glendale, California  U.S.A.
b...@att.net
www.biwa.cc
K6OQK 



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Re: [time-nuts] HP-5370B Running Hot...

2010-09-14 Thread paul swed
Speaking of filters.
Thanks for putting the HP brief up. They are always a good read.
Especially since these days I can afford that gear.
That said many if not all of the filter material is degenerated.
Its soft and sticky. At a min get rid of it.
My environments clean so I leave them out.
Have never found a replacement. Maybe some home depot air filter.
Regards

On Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 11:04 AM, Greg Burnett gb...@comcast.net wrote:

 Good advice Burt.

 While we're on the subject of over-heating issues, on instruments with fan
 filters, I'd like to mention the importance to clean their fan filters at
 regular intervals.

 See:
 http://www.hparchive.com/Bench_Briefs/HP-Bench-Briefs-1995-01-03.pdf

 Greg

 -

 Burt wrote:
 ...One day whilst I had my back turned on it the pass transistor
 in the power supply shorted and in turn took out most of the devices
 on the mother board turning the mother board into a wind chime
 vane.  I was fortunate enough to find another mother board, replaced
 it and it now was up and running again but still too hot in my ongoing
 opinion.

 Here's what I discovered: On the rear of the HP-3336A are two power
 selector switches.  Instead of mine being set to 120 VAC I discovered
 they were set to 100 Volts.  I don't know why or how they came to be
 set at 100 VAC since the instrument came from a local engineering
 firm, not Japan.  Maybe somewhere along the way one of the switches
 simply got bumped.  Anyway, it was just one position off from where
 the combination should've been set.  Correcting the primary voltage
 selector cleared the heat problem and the instrument, with my monster
 heatsink, now runs quite cool.  So, for whatever little bit it might
 be worth, if you think it's running unusually hot, check the voltage
 selector switches on the rear and possibly the primary DC voltages
 into the regulators.

 clip


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Re: [time-nuts] HP-5370B Running Hot...

2010-09-14 Thread Greg Burnett
Yeah, good advice to get rid of the fan filter material, Paul. With the HP 
8568B  8566B, Signal Analysis Division (SAD) weighed the pros and cons of 
keeping the instrument clean vs. risk of over-heating if the fan filters 
were not kept clean. They decided in favor of reduced risk of heat damage, 
and eliminated the fan filters, from then on shipping the boxes without the 
fan filters.

Greg

--

Paul wrote:
...That said many if not all of the filter material is degenerated.
Its soft and sticky. At a min get rid of it.
My environments clean so I leave them out.
--clip---


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Re: [time-nuts] HP-5370B Running Hot...

2010-09-14 Thread paul swed
I guess with humor, I clean up 20 years of stuff on/in the gear. Almost
always straight off.
Reason. That forces a very good inspection. You find all kinds of clues as
to what might be up. Burnt caps, resistors, loose wires and such.
Other thing I do is measure all supplies while cold looking for dead shorts.
Amazing how many caps show up that way.


On Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 2:16 PM, Greg Burnett gb...@comcast.net wrote:

 Yeah, good advice to get rid of the fan filter material, Paul. With the HP
 8568B  8566B, Signal Analysis Division (SAD) weighed the pros and cons of
 keeping the instrument clean vs. risk of over-heating if the fan filters
 were not kept clean. They decided in favor of reduced risk of heat damage,
 and eliminated the fan filters, from then on shipping the boxes without the
 fan filters.

 Greg

 --

 Paul wrote:
 ...That said many if not all of the filter material is degenerated.
 Its soft and sticky. At a min get rid of it.
 My environments clean so I leave them out.
 --clip---


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[time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images

2009-10-26 Thread Joe Geller
I thought I would contribute a 5370B ROM version and possibly add a 
later ROM image to the collection.  I should have left it to the experts.  I am 
afraid that all I accomplished was to brick my 5370B: Serial number 2438A 
01154, Board 05370-60109, U3.  U3 is a plastic chip with no window, so probably 
it was an OTP (one time programmable).  I think this was before hp went over to 
EEPROMs.

U3 markings:

AMI 8449HS
1818-3373
KOREA

No urgency; any help most appreciated.

Regards,
Joe Geller
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[time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images - success

2009-10-18 Thread Mike S

Just a quick report.

The 5370B ROM image seems to work just fine in a 5370A. At least one 
GPIB sequence which would cause the original firmware to hang now seems 
to work fine.


I put up a page describing how to change to the newer firmware, based 
mostly upon an earlier post by Mark Sims: 
http://www.flatsurface.com/5370A/index.html



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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images - success

2009-10-18 Thread Bruce Lane
Thanks, Mike. I've archived that page along with the firmware, just in 
case. Nice work, BTW!

*** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***

On 18-Oct-09 at 11:44 mi...@flatsurface.com wrote:

Just a quick report.

The 5370B ROM image seems to work just fine in a 5370A. At least one 
GPIB sequence which would cause the original firmware to hang now seems 
to work fine.

I put up a page describing how to change to the newer firmware, based 
mostly upon an earlier post by Mark Sims: 
http://www.flatsurface.com/5370A/index.html


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images - success

2009-10-18 Thread Sylvain RICHARD

Mike S a écrit :

Just a quick report.

The 5370B ROM image seems to work just fine in a 5370A. At least one 
GPIB sequence which would cause the original firmware to hang now 
seems to work fine.


I put up a page describing how to change to the newer firmware, based 
mostly upon an earlier post by Mark Sims: 
http://www.flatsurface.com/5370A/index.html



Hi,

I've archived this page just in case. What exactly was fixed by using 
the newer firmware? Random hangs or specific bugs?


Regards,

--
Sylvain RICHARD


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images - success

2009-10-18 Thread Magnus Danielson

Mike S wrote:

Just a quick report.

The 5370B ROM image seems to work just fine in a 5370A. At least one 
GPIB sequence which would cause the original firmware to hang now seems 
to work fine.


I put up a page describing how to change to the newer firmware, based 
mostly upon an earlier post by Mark Sims: 
http://www.flatsurface.com/5370A/index.html


Very neat mod, compliments!

Being able to use the DIP switch to switch between old and new ROM 
version is very neat. Getting to the 2764 level should help.


Cheers,
Magnus

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images - success

2009-10-18 Thread Mike S

At 12:28 PM 10/18/2009, Sylvain RICHARD wrote...
What exactly was fixed by using the newer firmware? Random hangs or 
specific bugs?


It's not documented, AFAIK. Mine seemed to hang pretty regularly if I 
tried to do a GPIB interface clear/device clear while it was in talk 
mode and in the middle of a measurement.


That seems to have gotten better with the newer firmware, but I noticed 
one new bug - I used to be able to do an ST8ST1 to set the reference 
and immediately go back to mean. With the newer firmware, it seems I 
have to pause between the two, or the reference isn't set correctly.


The firmware Mark so kindly provided is from a unit with date code 
2332A (32nd week of 1983), which is a fairly early revision of the 
5370B (1st rev was 2316A, 16th week of 1983). 5370B revisions went to 
at least 2904A (4th week of 1989). There may be even newer firmware 
which has more bug fixes.


I put cksum and md5sum for this image on the web page, if someone with 
a newer 5370B wants to compare with what they have. 



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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images - success

2009-10-18 Thread swingbyte

Mike S wrote:

Just a quick report.

The 5370B ROM image seems to work just fine in a 5370A. At least one 
GPIB sequence which would cause the original firmware to hang now 
seems to work fine.


I put up a page describing how to change to the newer firmware, based 
mostly upon an earlier post by Mark Sims: 
http://www.flatsurface.com/5370A/index.html



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Great job - I might do this to my A model - first I have to get the rest 
of it working though.   The only improvement I would suggest is 
installing a socket into the board socket and soldering to it rather 
than soldering onto the ic.   One can also still remove the ic later

Have you diff'ed the two rom images to see how much code changed?
Tim

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images?

2009-10-17 Thread Mike S

At 01:29 PM 10/17/2009, J. Forster wrote...

Have you tried the BlueFeather site?


The one associated with the Society for Creative Anachronism? No.

There's a bluefeathertech.com domain, they have 5370A images on their 
ftp server, but nothing for the 5370B. 



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[time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images?

2009-10-17 Thread Mark Sims

Dieder and Bruce now have the image to put in their archives...  


  
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images?

2009-10-17 Thread Bruce Lane
And it's now in a directory all its own.

Thanks much!

*** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***

On 17-Oct-09 at 22:25 Mark Sims wrote:

Dieder and Bruce now have the image to put in their archives...  


 
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images?

2009-10-17 Thread Mike S

At 06:35 PM 10/17/2009, Joseph Gray wrote...
Didn't someone here say that there were two different firmwares for 
the 5370B? The early one is supposed to have its own issue with GPIB. 
If true, then how to tell which version you are burning?


Reference: 
http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/2005-April/018240.html


I don't know. I assume the version is what's marked on the chips, I 
know of know way to query the device for the version number.


Mark,

Assuming you grabbed this image from your own 5370B, could you let us 
know the serial number? The prefix would date it, and might provide 
some info. I did a quick compare, and it is different than the 5370A 
images which are posted elsewhere.


What's not known is if the early, bad, 5370B firmware was just 
brought over from the 5370A, or whether there were 2 5370B versions in 
addition to the 5370A version.  



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[time-nuts] HP 5370B ROM images?

2009-10-17 Thread Mark Sims

The ROM image came from a unit with date code 2332A.   There was no ID on the 
EPROM chip.  The window was covered by a piece of green tape that had no 
markings.

  
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[time-nuts] HP-5370B part needed

2009-09-26 Thread Mark Sims

I got in a HP5370B counter that was oh so very dead.  I think this was a parts 
unit where all the dead boards went after they died horrible deaths...  Well,  
I have it working now except one channel (the right one) on the input card is 
blown.  The problem is the 5088-7062 amplifier chip (this unit uses the same 
input board as the HP-5345A counter input board).  Does any body out there have 
either:
1) A spare 5088-7062 chip.
2) A spare 5088-7061 chip (the one used on the left channel...  can be made to 
work)
3) A spare 5370B input card
4) A spare 5345A input card
5) A spare kilo or two of unobtanium (or its alloys... gold or diamonds can be 
made to work)




  
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[time-nuts] HP 5370B, prologix and Saunders 150C F.S. in UK

2009-08-19 Thread Robert Atkinson
Hi All,
I'm downsizing at the moment and am somewhat unwillingly considering disposing 
of my 5370B and prologix USB-HPIB converter. I thought I'd look for offers from 
any interested UK list members before considering dealers or e...@.
I Also have a Saunders 150C Crystal activity meter. It would probably be 
shipable to the USA.

Contact me off list for more information.
Robert G8RPI.


  

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-20 Thread Roy Phillips

Bruce/Magnus
Thank you for your comments.
Roy

- Original Message - 
From: Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
time-nuts@febo.com

Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620



Hej Magnus

One issue is that the SR620 is still in production.
Thus obtaining spare parts may be a little easier than for the HP5370A.

Bruce

Magnus Danielson wrote:

Roy Phillips skrev:

Jim
I was interested to hear that you are very fond of your vintage
Counter (HP5370B), and I have downloaded the manual from the Agilent
website.
I recently purchased an HP 5335A, again a vintage model, and I have
yet to assess it completely  -  is the 5370B much superior ? The
facilities on the 5335A seem to be similar.


These are two different animals. I like my 5335A for its directness
and versatility, where as both 5370B and SR-620 takes a litte more
bending.

Resolution and jitter wise the 5370B outperforms the 5335A, and the
SR-620 outperforms the 5370B.

Cheers,
Magnus



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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Jim Palfreyman
I have a 5370B and love it.

It's big, and postage to Australia was as much as the unit itself, but what
it can do - especially given its vintage - makes it a perfect unit for my
rack!

And the manual (plus people here) make it really great if there are ever any
problems.

Don't underestimate the 5370B!

Regards,

Jim

2009/5/19 Jim Hall persei...@hotmail.com

 I'm looking to buy either an HP 5370B or SR620 counter.  I can probably get
 the HP unit for less money but don't mind paying more if the SR counter is
 definitely better for Time Nuts type measurements (e.g. Allen Deviation).

 Thanks!

 Jim Hall W4TVI
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Roy Phillips

Jim
I was interested to hear that you are very fond of your vintage Counter 
(HP5370B), and I have downloaded the manual from the Agilent website.
I recently purchased an HP 5335A, again a vintage model, and I have yet to 
assess it completely  -  is the 5370B much superior ? The facilities on the 
5335A seem to be similar.

Roy

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Palfreyman jim77...@gmail.com
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
time-nuts@febo.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620



I have a 5370B and love it.

It's big, and postage to Australia was as much as the unit itself, but 
what

it can do - especially given its vintage - makes it a perfect unit for my
rack!

And the manual (plus people here) make it really great if there are ever 
any

problems.

Don't underestimate the 5370B!

Regards,

Jim

2009/5/19 Jim Hall persei...@hotmail.com

I'm looking to buy either an HP 5370B or SR620 counter.  I can probably 
get
the HP unit for less money but don't mind paying more if the SR counter 
is

definitely better for Time Nuts type measurements (e.g. Allen Deviation).

Thanks!

Jim Hall W4TVI
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Jim Palfreyman
Hi Roy,

I'm not familiar with the 5335A but when I got advice from this group, the
5370B was definitely the way to go. I'm sure they'll tell you.

It does actually out perform even some modern timers. The only negative is
that it's big and clunky. But *so* well designed. I just wish they made
stuff like this nowadays.

Regards,

Jim

2009/5/19 Roy Phillips phill...@btinternet.com

 Jim
 I was interested to hear that you are very fond of your vintage Counter
 (HP5370B), and I have downloaded the manual from the Agilent website.
 I recently purchased an HP 5335A, again a vintage model, and I have yet to
 assess it completely  -  is the 5370B much superior ? The facilities on the
 5335A seem to be similar.
 Roy

 - Original Message - From: Jim Palfreyman jim77...@gmail.com
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
 time-nuts@febo.com
 Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 10:35 AM
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620



  I have a 5370B and love it.

 It's big, and postage to Australia was as much as the unit itself, but
 what
 it can do - especially given its vintage - makes it a perfect unit for my
 rack!

 And the manual (plus people here) make it really great if there are ever
 any
 problems.

 Don't underestimate the 5370B!

 Regards,

 Jim

 2009/5/19 Jim Hall persei...@hotmail.com

  I'm looking to buy either an HP 5370B or SR620 counter.  I can probably
 get
 the HP unit for less money but don't mind paying more if the SR counter
 is
 definitely better for Time Nuts type measurements (e.g. Allen Deviation).

 Thanks!

 Jim Hall W4TVI
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Chuck Harris

Jim Palfreyman wrote:

I have a 5370B and love it.

It's big, and postage to Australia was as much as the unit itself, but what
it can do - especially given its vintage - makes it a perfect unit for my
rack!

And the manual (plus people here) make it really great if there are ever any
problems.

Don't underestimate the 5370B!


I'll take that one step further: Don't underestimate the 5370A!

The 5370A is functionally identical to the 5370B.  It has the same specs as
the 5370B.  It programs with the same feature set as the 5370B.  And, it makes
its readings, and reports its data on HPIB just as fast as the 5370B.  The
only difference between the A and B model is they combined the CPU, RAM and ROM
cards into one, and they made some changes to the circuitry to make manufacture
easier.

-Chuck Harris

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Didier Juges
The HP catalog lists the 5370A as capable of 6000 readings/sec in binary
mode, the 5370B is listed as capable of 8000/sec, probably as a result of a
slightly faster processor. Not a significant difference, but there may be
other subtle improvements between the two. The catalog pages are laid out
quite differently for the two instruments, making a comparison difficult.

I have two 5370A but no 5370B, so I cannot comment on practical differences,
beyond the catalog specs.

I am not sure if the 5370B suffers from the bad socket syndrome like the
two 5370A I have. I had to replace all the sockets with machined pin sockets
because the instruments would regularly turn on stupid (display frozen)
after a few days of inactivity. I am not sure if it was a tin-whisker
problem or bad contacts, but by judging how hard it was to extract the chips
from the sockets, it was not due to insufficient contact pressure...

This job was made very easy because I have access to excellent PWB rework
tools. The cost of the sockets was nominal, I got them from Mouser I think.

Since the sockets I got are gold plated and I did not pre-tin them to remove
the gold from the solder joint, I expect the instrument to develop problems
due to lead-gold corrosion in some years. Hopefully, I will not care by
then...

Didier KO4BB

 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com 
 [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris
 Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 7:20 AM
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620
 
 Jim Palfreyman wrote:
  I have a 5370B and love it.
  
  It's big, and postage to Australia was as much as the unit 
 itself, but 
  what it can do - especially given its vintage - makes it a perfect 
  unit for my rack!
  
  And the manual (plus people here) make it really great if there are 
  ever any problems.
  
  Don't underestimate the 5370B!
 
 I'll take that one step further: Don't underestimate the 5370A!
 
 The 5370A is functionally identical to the 5370B.  It has the 
 same specs as the 5370B.  It programs with the same feature 
 set as the 5370B.  And, it makes its readings, and reports 
 its data on HPIB just as fast as the 5370B.  The only 
 difference between the A and B model is they combined the 
 CPU, RAM and ROM cards into one, and they made some changes 
 to the circuitry to make manufacture easier.
 
 -Chuck Harris
 
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Pete

Roy,

The 5370s have a few quirks that you should know about to avoid
possible surprises. These aren't newly discovered  have been the
subject of various postings a few years ago.

1) Both instruments have some front end coupling with the data path
the timebase. This was mostly corrected in the 5370B. 


2) Both instruments have a low level issue with non-linearity of the
   interpolator which provides the ~20ps resolution.

The result of these imperfections is jitter readings taken on the 
reference output signal (this is used in performance verification)

will display the lowest readings you'll ever see. Real world signals
locked to this source behave the same way. These readings are
satisfying, but not real. When H-P spec'd the jitter floor at 30-
35ps, that's the true performance limit. Still quite good by any
measure.

Another candidate counter you should check out is the Fluke/
Pendulum PM6681. These aren't common, but sometimes are
on *bay for reasonable ($500-600) prices. This is a much 
more versatile instrument than the 5370s with lower front end

noise, thus somewhat better jitter floor.

Regards,
Pete Rawson

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Poul-Henning Kamp
In message 54d2d91a9dd3422b80f4f02de65e9...@d400, Didier Juges writes:

I have two 5370A but no 5370B, so I cannot comment on practical differences,
beyond the catalog specs.

I belive there is a difference in the input circuitry also, I recall
that the B has a more capable input section than the A.

-- 
Poul-Henning Kamp   | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
p...@freebsd.org | TCP/IP since RFC 956
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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Roy Phillips

Pete
Thanks for the information.
Regards
Roy

- Original Message - 
From: Pete peteraw...@earthlink.net
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
time-nuts@febo.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620



Roy,

The 5370s have a few quirks that you should know about to avoid
possible surprises. These aren't newly discovered  have been the
subject of various postings a few years ago.

1) Both instruments have some front end coupling with the data path
the timebase. This was mostly corrected in the 5370B.
2) Both instruments have a low level issue with non-linearity of the
   interpolator which provides the ~20ps resolution.

The result of these imperfections is jitter readings taken on the 
reference output signal (this is used in performance verification)

will display the lowest readings you'll ever see. Real world signals
locked to this source behave the same way. These readings are
satisfying, but not real. When H-P spec'd the jitter floor at 30-
35ps, that's the true performance limit. Still quite good by any
measure.

Another candidate counter you should check out is the Fluke/
Pendulum PM6681. These aren't common, but sometimes are
on *bay for reasonable ($500-600) prices. This is a much more versatile 
instrument than the 5370s with lower front end

noise, thus somewhat better jitter floor.

Regards,
Pete Rawson

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Chuck Harris

According to the 1986 catalog, the 5370B is capable of 6000 readings per sec
in the fast binary mode.

According to the 1983 catalog, the 5370A is capable of 6000 readings per sec
in the fast binary mode.

In 1992, they upped the spec to say: up to 8000 readings per second in the
fast binary mode.

I find it interesting that for the 5370A, they say 6000 readings per second, and
the 5370B they say up to 8000 readings per second.

As to the socket issue, my 5370A has been dead reliable.  No problems at
anytime.

I think your socket issue is unique to your unit, or perhaps the series your
unit came from.

-Chuck Harris

Didier Juges wrote:

The HP catalog lists the 5370A as capable of 6000 readings/sec in binary
mode, the 5370B is listed as capable of 8000/sec, probably as a result of a
slightly faster processor. Not a significant difference, but there may be
other subtle improvements between the two. The catalog pages are laid out
quite differently for the two instruments, making a comparison difficult.

I have two 5370A but no 5370B, so I cannot comment on practical differences,
beyond the catalog specs.

I am not sure if the 5370B suffers from the bad socket syndrome like the
two 5370A I have. I had to replace all the sockets with machined pin sockets
because the instruments would regularly turn on stupid (display frozen)
after a few days of inactivity. I am not sure if it was a tin-whisker
problem or bad contacts, but by judging how hard it was to extract the chips
from the sockets, it was not due to insufficient contact pressure...

This job was made very easy because I have access to excellent PWB rework
tools. The cost of the sockets was nominal, I got them from Mouser I think.

Since the sockets I got are gold plated and I did not pre-tin them to remove
the gold from the solder joint, I expect the instrument to develop problems
due to lead-gold corrosion in some years. Hopefully, I will not care by
then...

Didier KO4BB


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Chuck Harris

Poul-Henning Kamp wrote:

In message 54d2d91a9dd3422b80f4f02de65e9...@d400, Didier Juges writes:


I have two 5370A but no 5370B, so I cannot comment on practical differences,
beyond the catalog specs.


I belive there is a difference in the input circuitry also, I recall
that the B has a more capable input section than the A.


There is a difference, but the specifications remain the same.  I was told
that the difference made manufacture of the 5370B easier.  Probably less need
to select parts.

-Chuck Harris

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Chuck Harris

There is an interesting application note on the differential linearity
issue. Apparently the problem was found by a Tektronix engineer, and HP
provided a correction to fix the problem in the 5370A.  That correction,
I believe, is available on Bama.

-Chuck Harris

Pete wrote:

Roy,

The 5370s have a few quirks that you should know about to avoid
possible surprises. These aren't newly discovered  have been the
subject of various postings a few years ago.

1) Both instruments have some front end coupling with the data path
the timebase. This was mostly corrected in the 5370B.
2) Both instruments have a low level issue with non-linearity of the
   interpolator which provides the ~20ps resolution.

The result of these imperfections is jitter readings taken on the 
reference output signal (this is used in performance verification)

will display the lowest readings you'll ever see. Real world signals
locked to this source behave the same way. These readings are
satisfying, but not real. When H-P spec'd the jitter floor at 30-
35ps, that's the true performance limit. Still quite good by any
measure.

Another candidate counter you should check out is the Fluke/
Pendulum PM6681. These aren't common, but sometimes are
on *bay for reasonable ($500-600) prices. This is a much more versatile 
instrument than the 5370s with lower front end

noise, thus somewhat better jitter floor.

Regards,
Pete Rawson

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread John Miles

 As to the socket issue, my 5370A has been dead reliable.  No problems at
 anytime.

 I think your socket issue is unique to your unit, or perhaps the
 series your
 unit came from.

I've heard of socket failures happening on at least one 5370A besides
Didier's, but I don't think it's reached pandemic proportions yet.  Seems
that the socket manufacturers didn't really understand their own reliability
figures back then.  I've been bitten by them myself -- not by my 5370, but
by the Apple II+ I had as a high-school kid, which used similar DIP sockets
on every chip.

My guess is that the gold-plated machined-pin sockets will be fine for the
duration.  The pins probably saw enough tinning during soldering, and if
not, you can just reheat them later if needed.  So far, I've seen problems
with gold-to-copper solder joints only in cases where the rule against
making a physically-stressed solder connection has been violated.  The 8662A
is prone to those problems because HP failed to use pigtails to connect
their SMC center pins to the PC boards.  A bigger problem with the
machined-pin DIP sockets is that they can let go of their chips if subjected
to vibration in some orientations, another fun phenomenon that the
manufacturers don't seem to talk about.

5370s are nice boxes but they can be a challenge to work on.  There are a
couple of editions of the service manual, both apocryphal at best.  One
concern is that the interpolators are hard to calibrate properly without an
8082A pulse generator (read: I'm not sure how you'd even attempt it.)

-- john, KE5FX


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Magnus Danielson

Jim Palfreyman skrev:

I have a 5370B and love it.

It's big, and postage to Australia was as much as the unit itself, but what
it can do - especially given its vintage - makes it a perfect unit for my
rack!

And the manual (plus people here) make it really great if there are ever any
problems.

Don't underestimate the 5370B!


Have you moded your A8 assembly like I did?

Cheers,
Magnus

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Magnus Danielson

Roy Phillips skrev:

Jim
I was interested to hear that you are very fond of your vintage Counter 
(HP5370B), and I have downloaded the manual from the Agilent website.
I recently purchased an HP 5335A, again a vintage model, and I have yet 
to assess it completely  -  is the 5370B much superior ? The facilities 
on the 5335A seem to be similar.


These are two different animals. I like my 5335A for its directness and 
versatility, where as both 5370B and SR-620 takes a litte more bending.


Resolution and jitter wise the 5370B outperforms the 5335A, and the 
SR-620 outperforms the 5370B.


Cheers,
Magnus

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Bruce Griffiths
Hej Magnus

One issue is that the SR620 is still in production.
Thus obtaining spare parts may be a little easier than for the HP5370A.

Bruce

Magnus Danielson wrote:
 Roy Phillips skrev:
 Jim
 I was interested to hear that you are very fond of your vintage
 Counter (HP5370B), and I have downloaded the manual from the Agilent
 website.
 I recently purchased an HP 5335A, again a vintage model, and I have
 yet to assess it completely  -  is the 5370B much superior ? The
 facilities on the 5335A seem to be similar.

 These are two different animals. I like my 5335A for its directness
 and versatility, where as both 5370B and SR-620 takes a litte more
 bending.

 Resolution and jitter wise the 5370B outperforms the 5335A, and the
 SR-620 outperforms the 5370B.

 Cheers,
 Magnus


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Jim Palfreyman
No I haven't. What does this mod do?

2009/5/20 Magnus Danielson mag...@rubidium.dyndns.org

 Jim Palfreyman skrev:

 I have a 5370B and love it.

 It's big, and postage to Australia was as much as the unit itself, but
 what
 it can do - especially given its vintage - makes it a perfect unit for my
 rack!

 And the manual (plus people here) make it really great if there are ever
 any
 problems.

 Don't underestimate the 5370B!


 Have you moded your A8 assembly like I did?

 Cheers,
 Magnus


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Chuck Harris

Hi John,

I know that socket problems in the 1970's could be a real
bear, but most of them started very early in the life of
the product.  For instance, I had heard about smacking
Apple I memory on the table to fix problems by the time
they had been out for only a couple of years.

Maybe my 5370A already has replacement sockets?  I'd have
to look, but since it is working reliably, I am not feeling
really inclined to de-rack it to check.

I have used gold plated machined-pin sockets for many years,
and never saw a failure due to the gold/solder interface.
I am certain that to some degree the problem is real, but
it is also not real most of the time.  Stressed joints are
certain to be a contributing factor.

If you look carefully at the augat machine-tool sockets, you
will likely notice that there is a tunnel that runs under the
socket so that you can strap the IC into the socket.  A good
idea much of the time.  I have never had a plastic packaged
IC fall out under any circumstances, but I can see where the
more massive ceramic packages (eg. 5400 TTL) might be a real
problem.

It always bothered me a little bit how the fingers in a machined
pin socket are not in any way aligned with the faces of the IC
pin.  They are clearly designed for a round pin!  ... and are
being used on a square pin with random orientation.  Probably
not an ideal situation.

When I bought my 5370A, I also bought an 8082A so that I could
service it.  The 8082A is about the only generator that is up
to the task.

It was a major disappointment when the 5370A turned out to be
working well, and in specification.  Hopefully it will drift
out so I can put in the differential linearity modification,
and calibrate the beast... in the mean time I will just use
it.

-Chuck Harris

John Miles wrote:

As to the socket issue, my 5370A has been dead reliable.  No problems at
anytime.

I think your socket issue is unique to your unit, or perhaps the
series your
unit came from.


I've heard of socket failures happening on at least one 5370A besides
Didier's, but I don't think it's reached pandemic proportions yet.  Seems
that the socket manufacturers didn't really understand their own reliability
figures back then.  I've been bitten by them myself -- not by my 5370, but
by the Apple II+ I had as a high-school kid, which used similar DIP sockets
on every chip.

My guess is that the gold-plated machined-pin sockets will be fine for the
duration.  The pins probably saw enough tinning during soldering, and if
not, you can just reheat them later if needed.  So far, I've seen problems
with gold-to-copper solder joints only in cases where the rule against
making a physically-stressed solder connection has been violated.  The 8662A
is prone to those problems because HP failed to use pigtails to connect
their SMC center pins to the PC boards.  A bigger problem with the
machined-pin DIP sockets is that they can let go of their chips if subjected
to vibration in some orientations, another fun phenomenon that the
manufacturers don't seem to talk about.

5370s are nice boxes but they can be a challenge to work on.  There are a
couple of editions of the service manual, both apocryphal at best.  One
concern is that the interpolators are hard to calibrate properly without an
8082A pulse generator (read: I'm not sure how you'd even attempt it.)

-- john, KE5FX


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B vs SR620

2009-05-19 Thread Magnus Danielson

Jim Palfreyman skrev:

No I haven't. What does this mod do?


Disabling the 10 MHz presence detector that spews out wideband 5 MHz and 
lots of overtone noise on among other things the 10 MHz output.


I did a very simple short which brings one of the transistors out of 
bias and thus disabling the detector. All the detector does is to lit a 
LED for you when you have the hood open to do maintainence, so it is 
fairly safe to do it.


Cheers,
Magnus


2009/5/20 Magnus Danielson mag...@rubidium.dyndns.org


Jim Palfreyman skrev:


I have a 5370B and love it.

It's big, and postage to Australia was as much as the unit itself, but
what
it can do - especially given its vintage - makes it a perfect unit for my
rack!

And the manual (plus people here) make it really great if there are ever
any
problems.

Don't underestimate the 5370B!


Have you moded your A8 assembly like I did?

Cheers,
Magnus


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-11 Thread Poul-Henning Kamp
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Didier Juges writes:

 If a piece of black tape covering the lsd would turn
 2.01 into 2.0, would that solve the problem?

Doesn't that only solve the problem if the black tape knows about 4/5
rounding ?

-- 
Poul-Henning Kamp   | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
[EMAIL PROTECTED] | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer   | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-11 Thread marks twotoe.com
Hi All,


This is my first 5370B so I knew nothing about its expected behaviour.

I bought it on eBay as the song goes and when it arrived I could see damage 
to the top right corner of the front frame that the operator panel screws 
into.

It looked like it had been dropped and dropped quite hard.

Although I could not detect any drift on the oscillator, I thought I'd try 
some of the 10811's I have collected.

While I was about it I replaced the front frame.

Interestingly enough, when the oscillator was replaced, the frequency 
stopped jittering around and sits quite happily at 11 digits resolution.

Now, although it seems deceptively simple, I can't decide whether to tune 
the multiplier or not.

I'd hate to be fixing something that wasn't broken in the first place.

Here is an interesting page on leapsecond depicting a drifting HP 10811. 
http://www.leapsecond.com/pages/10811-slow/


Many thanks,
Mark




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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-11 Thread Poul-Henning Kamp
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], marks twotoe.com writ
es:

Now, although it seems deceptively simple, I can't decide whether to tune 
the multiplier or not.

If you have a good spectrum analyser and follows the procedure, it's
not tricky at all.

-- 
Poul-Henning Kamp   | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
[EMAIL PROTECTED] | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer   | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-11 Thread Magnus Danielson
From: Poul-Henning Kamp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 06:36:26 +
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Didier Juges writes:
 
  If a piece of black tape covering the lsd would turn
  2.01 into 2.0, would that solve the problem?
 
 Doesn't that only solve the problem if the black tape knows about 4/5
 rounding ?

The tape does not know anything about the rounding, but it proves to show that
it solves a stupid problem to start with. It makes it bleeding obvious.

Cheers,
Magnus

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-11 Thread Mike S
At 10:48 PM 5/10/2008, Tom Van Baak wrote...
If a piece of black tape covering the lsd would turn
2.01 into 2.0, would that solve the problem?

Why not tape over the whole display, or better yet, just completely 
avoid the cost of instrumentation and ship the DUT without testing? 


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-11 Thread Didier Juges
I can see we now agree this was a silly discussion :-)

Didier KO4BB 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike S
 Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:43 AM
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B
 
 At 10:48 PM 5/10/2008, Tom Van Baak wrote...
 If a piece of black tape covering the lsd would turn
 2.01 into 2.0, would that solve the problem?
 
 Why not tape over the whole display, or better yet, just 
 completely avoid the cost of instrumentation and ship the DUT 
 without testing? 
 
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.23.11/1422 - Release Date: 5/8/2008
5:24 PM
 


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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-10 Thread Magnus Danielson
From: Didier Juges [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 20:11:42 -0500
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Mark,
 
 The 5335 is specified at 9 digits/second of resolution, the 5370 is
 specified at 12 digits/second.

That is severly overoptimistic on the 5370's part and just about overoptimistic
on the 5335's part. I think you should not use those sales-numbers, as they are
there to give you a one-figure-of-merit hint, but they are not qualitative
values.

 That's 3 orders of magnitude better resolution. That brings up noise that at
 9d/s is simply negligible.

I'd suspect something like 40 times better, not 1000 times better.
The 5335 singel-shot resolution is 500 ps while the 5370 has 25 ps, a factor of
20. The front-ends is not that good on the 5335 thought, so let's add some
noise there.

I could make some tests if you like...

 My two 5370s are rock stable if I only look at the 9 left-most digits.

Maybe you should trim your multiplier chain?

 While it would be nice to have the same stability at 12d/s on the 5370 as we
 get on the 5335 at 9d/s, that simply does not happen.

I don't see how you could expect that. 10 digits stable should be possible, but
again it is just a very very rought estimate of performance.

Cheers,
Magnus

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-10 Thread Bruce Griffiths
Magnus Danielson wrote:
 Mark,

 The 5335 is specified at 9 digits/second of resolution, the 5370 is
 specified at 12 digits/second.
 

 That is severly overoptimistic on the 5370's part and just about 
 overoptimistic
 on the 5335's part. I think you should not use those sales-numbers, as they 
 are
 there to give you a one-figure-of-merit hint, but they are not qualitative
 values.

   
 That's 3 orders of magnitude better resolution. That brings up noise that at
 9d/s is simply negligible.
 

 I'd suspect something like 40 times better, not 1000 times better.
 The 5335 singel-shot resolution is 500 ps while the 5370 has 25 ps, a factor 
 of
 20. The front-ends is not that good on the 5335 thought, so let's add some
 noise there.

 I could make some tests if you like...

   
Actually the 5370 single shot resolution is 20ps, however the noise is a 
little larger than that.
It can be much larger if the input signal slew rate at the trigger point 
is much less than about 7.5V/us (input attenuation = 1X).
The performance also deteriorates when the input amplifiers are severely 
overdriven.
Since the 5370 input amplifier noise bandwidth is 500MHz the wideband 
noise seen by the 5370 inputs should also be low.
 My two 5370s are rock stable if I only look at the 9 left-most digits.
 

 Maybe you should trim your multiplier chain?

   
Aligning the various filters in the 10MHz to 200MHz multiplier chain can 
make a considerable difference to the apparent noise.
 While it would be nice to have the same stability at 12d/s on the 5370 as we
 get on the 5335 at 9d/s, that simply does not happen.
 

 I don't see how you could expect that. 10 digits stable should be possible, 
 but
 again it is just a very very rought estimate of performance.

 Cheers,
 Magnus
   
Bruce

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-10 Thread Didier Juges
 -Original Message-
 From: Magnus Danielson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 5:09 AM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B
 
 From: Didier Juges [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B
 Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 20:11:42 -0500
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  Mark,
  
  The 5335 is specified at 9 digits/second of resolution, the 5370 is 
  specified at 12 digits/second.
 
 That is severly overoptimistic on the 5370's part and just 
 about overoptimistic on the 5335's part. I think you should 
 not use those sales-numbers, as they are there to give you a 
 one-figure-of-merit hint, but they are not qualitative values.
 
  That's 3 orders of magnitude better resolution. That brings 
 up noise 
  that at 9d/s is simply negligible.
 
 I'd suspect something like 40 times better, not 1000 times better.
 The 5335 singel-shot resolution is 500 ps while the 5370 has 
 25 ps, a factor of 20. The front-ends is not that good on the 
 5335 thought, so let's add some noise there.
 
 I could make some tests if you like...
 
  My two 5370s are rock stable if I only look at the 9 
 left-most digits.
 
 Maybe you should trim your multiplier chain?
 
  While it would be nice to have the same stability at 12d/s 
 on the 5370 
  as we get on the 5335 at 9d/s, that simply does not happen.
 
 I don't see how you could expect that. 10 digits stable 
 should be possible, but again it is just a very very rought 
 estimate of performance.
 
 Cheers,
 Magnus
 

Sorry if my answer was confusing. I did not mean to imply that the 5370 was
3 orders of magnitude more accurate than the 5335, simply that it attempts
to display data with 3 orders of magnitude greater resolution (3 orders of
magnitude more precise). The 5370 spec indicates 20 pS accuracy in
single-shot TI measurements, while it displays the data with 1 pS
resolution. In that mode, even with ideal signals coming in, there is
significant jitter on the displayed value.

That's a good illustration of the difference between precision and accuracy.

I think it shows where the limits of conventional technology lies. There are
a lot of 9 d/s counters, and most of those I have seen are perfectly stable
at that level. Some are even very simple and inexpensive. To get
significantly better requires exponentially more difficult technology, at
least considering what was available 20 years ago.

Didier KO4BB 

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-10 Thread Didier Juges
  -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Didier Juges
 Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 8:08 AM
 To: Time-Nuts
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B
 
 
 That's a good illustration of the difference between 
 precision and accuracy.
 

This is not unique to the 5370 counter. Many instruments have precision that
far exceeds their accuracy. Most microwave network analyzers have amplitude
resolution of 0.01dB, while their accuracy is just around 1dB in most cases.

There are a few cases where it can actually be useful, but in the vast
majority of cases, it simply confuses the hell out of the unsuspecting QA
person.

I have had to argue too many times that a piece of equipment with a 2dB p-p
requirement on flatness was just fine when it measured 2.01dB on the HP
network analyzer. I would not have gotten in that argument if the data had
been 1.99dB. Go figure.

Didier

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Re: [time-nuts] HP 5370B

2008-05-10 Thread Mike S
At 09:22 AM 5/10/2008, Didier Juges wrote...
Most microwave network analyzers have amplitude
resolution of 0.01dB, while their accuracy is just around 1dB in most 
cases.

I have had to argue too many times that a piece of equipment with a 
2dB p-p
requirement on flatness was just fine when it measured 2.01dB on the 
HP
network analyzer. I would not have gotten in that argument if the data 
had
been 1.99dB. Go figure.

I figure you're both wrong. If the measuring instrument is no better 
than 1 dB absolute, you can't expect to do it - a flat line measurement 
could represent an actual + or - 1 db, the limit of the spec. 


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