Re: Performa

[Hardware Mack]

All those plastics are brittle you’ll have to make sure to go to Home Depot
buy a $20 roll hundred feet, and wrap it at least 6to 7 layers. Or else
it’ll show up a box full of broken plastic.

On Sun, Jul 4, 2021 at 10:15 AM super star  wrote:

> It has to make it to northeast Ohio.
>
> On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 4:34 PM Art  wrote:
>
>> Not sure how, but to where?
>>
>> On Saturday, July 3, 2021 at 8:01:31 AM UTC-7 superstar64 wrote:
>>
>>> If you're willing to ship it, name a price.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, July 3, 2021 at 10:51:46 AM UTC-4 Art wrote:
>>>
 Anyone interest in a working Performa 575 in very good condition?

 Art (in AZ)
 Sent from my iPad mini 4.
>>>
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Re: Performa

[Hardware Mack]

How much? Does it work?

Thank you.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 10:51 AM Art  wrote:

> Anyone interest in a working Performa 575 in very good condition?
>
> Art (in AZ)
> Sent from my iPad mini 4.
>
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Re: Mac IIci with blank monitor

[Hardware Mack]

try poping all the ram out,  and installing just 4 matched smmms in
RAM BANK A,  also take a tooth brush and some 91% IPA alcohol and
scrub the ram slots of bank a as well. i have seen flux residue cause
issues many times. if there is any issue with ram in bank A you will
get NO video.
On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 12:06 PM  wrote:
>
> I don’t have another Mac available, although I could get another Apple 
> display from eBay and try that.
>
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Re: Mac IIci with blank monitor

[Hardware Mack]

with the Mac IIci you NEED to make sure RAM is installed in Bank A...
if you have ram in bank B, you will get no video.
On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 2:35 PM  wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I’m rebuilding a Mac IIci, starting with a recapped mainboard.  The boots 
> with a normal chime and the 13”
> RBG monitor powers up, although the display remains blank.  The PRAM battery 
> is new as well.
>
> I have read through some posts on similar problems and I’m looking for 
> suggestions on isolating the problem; could this be a problem with the 
> onboard video or has the monitor finally died?
>
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Re: Help: Macintosh Plus died, no longer boots

[Hardware Mack]

Try adjusting the 5v cutoff on the ab

On Thu, May 24, 2018, 12:19 AM TransportLayer <
vintagem...@transportlayer.org> wrote:

> This is a Macintosh I've spent a long time on, and it has just suddenly
> died. I'm very saddened by this, and am hoping to get help figuring out
> what's wrong and how to fix it.
>
> Around a month ago, I replaced every component listed in this spreadsheet:
> (
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/132RwzC8HM5ask-BdY_31txErOCwJDSkz099GY2XLpE0/edit?usp=sharing).
> Other than still needing some display size adjustments, it seemed to be
> working fantastically -- I had even bought 4MB of RAM for it, installed a
> ROM-inator (https://www.bigmessowires.com/mac-rom-inator/), and two small
> fans. Yesterday, I booted off of a Central Point Emergency/DiskFix disk,
> and noticed the ROM-inator startup image appear while the Finder was
> loading. I thought that was strange, and hit "R" to see if it was really
> loaded or not. It seemed to just continue booting, however, DiskFix showed
> my ROM disk, which shouldn't have been there unless I booted from the ROM
> instead. I went into the settings menu for DiskFix, and the moment I
> pressed the OK button to save my changes, the screen went off. I'm unsure
> if this is related to the issue or not, but because of how it happened, I'm
> not convinced it was just a coincidence.
>
> Now, the Macintosh just makes the little short high-pitched noise it makes
> when first powering on the CRT, immediately followed by the disk drive
> making a little noise, and then repeating, over and over (CRT, disk, CRT,
> disk, etc.), at about 2 cycles per second (so one "CRT, disk, CRT, disk"
> every second). There is no startup sound, and the display never comes on. I
> removed my custom ROMs, re-flashed and verified them, and put them back in,
> but the Macintosh has the same issue. I checked the cables, and there is
> continuity between the analogue and logic board's connectors. I removed my
> custom ROMs and put the original ROMs back in, and there is still no
> difference. I unplugged the internal floppy drive, and could not hear the
> CRT come on anymore, but I could hear the speaker turn on (no audio, just
> the little clicking noise of power being applied) and my fans turn on, so I
> know there was still power.
>
> I replaced the logic board with one that I know works, and there was a
> startup bong, and blinking question mark disk. I inserted a known good
> disk, there was a Happy Mac, followed by the screen going off. The Mac now
> briefly makes a very quiet sound when switching it on, but it is otherwise
> completely dead.
>
> I would appreciate any help I can get in trying to rescue my poor little
> Mac. I've spent so long with it, and I'm very sad that it's no longer
> working. I'm very worried I may have killed two logic boards now as well.
>
> Please let me know if you need any additional details, and I will do my
> best to provide them.
>
> Thank you for your time,
> TransportLayer
>
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Re: Bridge Fuse

[Hardware Mack]

By the way quick question is this a 220 or a 120 analog board because they
were separate I have like five spare 1:20 analog boards here

On Dec 24, 2017 12:04 PM, "Hardware Mack" <hardwarem...@gmail.com> wrote:

> When they were developing the 128k Mac mainboard, they had a short and
> couldn't find it finally Bridge the fuse, wasn't very beneficial to the
> project but I'm sure they had a good time.
>
> On Dec 24, 2017 11:08 AM, "Don Peterson" <dlp...@chartermi.net> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately, bridging the fuse works very well,
>> BUT there is likely to be some or much collateral
>> damage!!
>>
>> --
>> Don Peterson
>> dlp...@dlptir.us
>>
>> * http://dlptir.us <http://dlptir.us/>*
>> * ** *
>> *Quote without comment: *If fifty million people say a foolish thing,
>> it is still a foolish thing. - Anatole France
>>
>> As the wise man says: “Wherefore profit it a
>> man to be learned, if he remains stupid in his
>> mind?”
>>
>> Everything that is really great and inspiring is
>> created by the individual who can labor in freedom
>> -- Albert Einstein
>>
>> There is never enough time to do something right
>> the first time. There is always enough time to do
>> it over and over and over again.  -   Murphy
>>
>> Any sufficiently advanced technology is
>> indistinguishable from magic. - A. C. Clark
>>
>> Rule of thumb for evaluating computer technology:
>> if it works, it's obsolete.
>>
>> "The difference between the right word and the
>> almost-right word is the difference between the
>> lightning and the lightning-bug." - Mark Twain
>>
>> You need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape.
>> If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40.
>> If it moves and shouldn't, use duct tape.
>>
>> Handle every Stressful situation like a dog.
>> If you can't eat it or play with it,
>> Pee on it and walk away
>> 
>>
>>
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient_term=icon>
>>  Virus-free.
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>>
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Re: Bridge Fuse

[Hardware Mack]

When they were developing the 128k Mac mainboard, they had a short and
couldn't find it finally Bridge the fuse, wasn't very beneficial to the
project but I'm sure they had a good time.

On Dec 24, 2017 11:08 AM, "Don Peterson"  wrote:

> Unfortunately, bridging the fuse works very well,
> BUT there is likely to be some or much collateral
> damage!!
>
> --
> Don Peterson
> dlp...@dlptir.us
>
> * http://dlptir.us *
> * ** *
> *Quote without comment: *If fifty million people say a foolish thing,
> it is still a foolish thing. - Anatole France
>
> As the wise man says: “Wherefore profit it a
> man to be learned, if he remains stupid in his
> mind?”
>
> Everything that is really great and inspiring is
> created by the individual who can labor in freedom
> -- Albert Einstein
>
> There is never enough time to do something right
> the first time. There is always enough time to do
> it over and over and over again.  -   Murphy
>
> Any sufficiently advanced technology is
> indistinguishable from magic. - A. C. Clark
>
> Rule of thumb for evaluating computer technology:
> if it works, it's obsolete.
>
> "The difference between the right word and the
> almost-right word is the difference between the
> lightning and the lightning-bug." - Mark Twain
>
> You need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape.
> If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40.
> If it moves and shouldn't, use duct tape.
>
> Handle every Stressful situation like a dog.
> If you can't eat it or play with it,
> Pee on it and walk away
> 
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_5025280223244842692_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
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Re: Macintosh Classic analog board blows fuse

[Hardware Mack]

Bridge the fuse, and see what catches fire. And that is your issue. :)

On Dec 24, 2017 5:22 AM, "Beniamino Cenci Goga" <ben...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes, I have replaced:
>
> -) the group of leaking caps
>
> -) IC TDA 4605
>
> -) opto isolator
>
> -) mosfet (it goes bad any time the fuse blows)
>
> when he fuse blows, I think that also something else, besides the mosfet,
> goes bad.
>
>
> bcg
>
> On Dec 24, 2017, at 10:25 AM, Hardware Mack <hardwarem...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Opto isolater can go bad for classic ab's
>
> On Dec 24, 2017 3:54 AM, "Beniamino Cenci Goga" <ben...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thank you! Yes I have replaced all leaking caps and it has worked
>> flawlessly for a day or 2. Then suddenly it blown the fuse.
>>
>> bcg
>>
>> On Dec 24, 2017, at 9:51 AM, Hardware Mack <hardwarem...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Replace caps on ab leaakers... espica lly on smps output side...
>>
>> On Dec 24, 2017 3:43 AM, "Beniamino Cenci Goga" <ben...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> This Classic was showing the usual video artifacts due to bad capacitors.
>>>
>>> So I replaced the group of capacitors which are known to cause the video
>>> problem and an IC, the TDA4605. The Mac has worked flawlessly for a day or
>>> 2 and suddenly started blowing fuses.
>>>
>>> I replaced the mosfet but still no luck.
>>>
>>> Any idea why it started blowing the fuse two days after the replacement,
>>> but not immediately after it?
>>>
>>> bcg
>>>
>>>
>>> bcg
>>>
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Re: Macintosh Classic analog board blows fuse

[Hardware Mack]

Opto isolater can go bad for classic ab's

On Dec 24, 2017 3:54 AM, "Beniamino Cenci Goga" <ben...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thank you! Yes I have replaced all leaking caps and it has worked
> flawlessly for a day or 2. Then suddenly it blown the fuse.
>
> bcg
>
> On Dec 24, 2017, at 9:51 AM, Hardware Mack <hardwarem...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Replace caps on ab leaakers... espica lly on smps output side...
>
> On Dec 24, 2017 3:43 AM, "Beniamino Cenci Goga" <ben...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> This Classic was showing the usual video artifacts due to bad capacitors.
>>
>> So I replaced the group of capacitors which are known to cause the video
>> problem and an IC, the TDA4605. The Mac has worked flawlessly for a day or
>> 2 and suddenly started blowing fuses.
>>
>> I replaced the mosfet but still no luck.
>>
>> Any idea why it started blowing the fuse two days after the replacement,
>> but not immediately after it?
>>
>> bcg
>>
>>
>> bcg
>>
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Re: Macinato Classic analog board blows fuse

[Hardware Mack]

Replace caps on ab leaakers... espica lly on smps output side...

On Dec 24, 2017 3:43 AM, "Beniamino Cenci Goga"  wrote:

> This Classic was showing the usual video artifacts due to bad capacitors.
>
> So I replaced the group of capacitors which are known to cause the video
> problem and an IC, the TDA4605. The Mac has worked flawlessly for a day or
> 2 and suddenly started blowing fuses.
>
> I replaced the mosfet but still no luck.
>
> Any idea why it started blowing the fuse two days after the replacement,
> but not immediately after it?
>
> bcg
>
>
> bcg
>
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Re: Vintage Macs purge

[Hardware Mack]

Okay
Merry xmas

On Dec 23, 2017 4:18 PM, "Dan Knight, LowEndMac.com" 
wrote:

> It's been too many years since I purged the membership list of email
> addresses that result in bounces. I am doing that today. If you end up off
> the list and wish to return, please go to https://groups.google.com/ and
> rejoin us.
>
> Daniel Knight, listmom
>
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Re: Quantum Prodrive not recognized

[Hardware Mack]

Haha,i agree, the fix is definitely not for the light-hearted,  haha...
your best bet is to get one of those scsi to SD, adapters there's a
gentleman that was selling on eBay but he now has his own website I forget
the name of the website but between 60 and 70 bucks you can't go wrong, the
guy is based in California and is a good guy that sells those.

On Sep 6, 2017 10:16 AM, "Dylan McDermond"  wrote:

>
> > On Sep 5, 2017, at 10:17 PM, dlewis1...@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > I found an exact match for the Quantum Prodrive 105Mb drive
>
>
> ProDrive? Most of those have rubber head stops that have turned to goo
> causing the heads to stick. Even if it was “new”, it’s nearly 30 years old
> at this point and the rubber is breaking down. Look it up and you’ll find a
> few “fixes” but none for the light hearted.
>
> - Dylan
>
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Re: Mixing RAM

[Hardware Mack]

Should be fine,

On Jul 11, 2017 7:22 PM, "DB"  wrote:

> Hi. I want to max out my Plus with the full 4MB. It currently has 2.5 MB
> installed. The two 1MB sticks have 9 chips. I found 2 1MB sticks for sale
> on eBay but they're the 8 chip kind. Can they be mixed or should it be one
> or the other? The seller said that "in theory" they could but "best
> practice" is to not. Is that just code for *I'd really like you to buy my
> lot of four instead of two?*
>
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Re: Digest for vintage-macs@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 2 topics

[Hardware Mack]

Anything vintage can go at anytime and should not seem strange when it does.

On Jul 2, 2017 9:55 AM, "'Marcio Luis Teixeira' via Vintage Macs" <
vintage-macs@googlegroups.com> wrote:

>
> Will,
>
> I agree. It seems highly unlikely that a PCMCIA card would destroy the
> power supply, it also seems odd that it would die right after I had
> successfully installed Mac OS on the card. It could have been a strange
> coincidence, but I've tried resetting the PMU serveral times and the
> machine seems dead as a doornail.
>
>
> Jason,
>
> Yesterday I found a service manual and did a complete tear down of the
> 3400c, since I had heard that sometime the power module comes loose. There
> are no signs of damage anywhere and the backup battery is still good. I
> even tried booting with it disconnected. No go.
>
> However, in doing my tear down I did see the solder pads for the power
> jack on the MB and I tested them using my voltimeter. There were three
> pads. I was getting a reading of 0V between two of the pads, and a reading
> of about 3V on the other which seems peculiar. Either the power adapter
> does some sort of negotiation with the PMU prior to delivering full
> voltage, or it is delivering a severe under-voltage.
>
> I may consider getting a new power brick in the off chance mine is bad.
>
> -- Marcio
>
>
>
>
> Jason Johnson : Jul 01 05:03PM
>
> the 3400 has a pram battery that is mounted over the left side speaker.
> when it leaks the acid rots the screen, keyboard and motherboard connectors
> under it. You may want to take it apart and see if you can clean and
> salvage it. Out of 3 I have had only 1 I could save (not mine, bought off
> eBay).
>
> 
> From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com  on
> behalf of William Bowles 
> Sent: Saturday, July 1, 2017 8:28:35 AM
> To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: PowerBook 3400c Power Supply
>
> I would think that the psu is still good and a compact flash card doesn't
> draw enough power to fry the psu as it is basically just a big ram card
> with no moving parts what I would do is reset the pmu after removing the
> compact flash card reinstall the cd rom then restart the book normally and
> see if you get any joy let me know.
>
>
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Re: Classic II

[Hardware Mack]

http://store.inertialcomputing.com/default.asp

On Tue, Jun 27, 2017 at 9:30 AM, Ian Tonge  wrote:
> Hello Dylan
>
> He never got back to me about this?
>
> So I guess I’ll need to try somone else in the UK for a replacement HD for
> my Mac Classic II, any idea’s?
>
> Ian
>
>
> On 17 Jun 2017, at 11:06, Ian Tonge  wrote:
>
> Hello Dylan
>
> I can’t seem to source the items that you suggested to replace my faulty
> Classic II hard-drive, so I can’t get it up-and-running at the moment.
>
> Do you have a supplier in mind who I can contact?
>
> Regards
>
> Ian
>
> On 9 Jun 2017, at 15:19, Dylan McDermond  wrote:
>
> You are not going to find a “new” 50-pin SCSI drive. Like hardwaremack said,
> I’d look at getting a SCSI2SD. More reliable. Quieter. Plugs right into the
> the existing wiring. About the same price as a large, old SCSI drive on the
> used market (USD 59).
>
> http://www.codesrc.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=SCSI2SD
>
> http://store.inertialcomputing.com/category-s/100.htm
>
> - Dylan
>
>
> On Jun 8, 2017, at 7:59 PM, Ian Tonge  wrote:
>
> Can anyone suggest a replacement hard drive for my Mac Classic II? I’d
> prefer to buy a new low spec hard drive and not rely on an old unit which
> may fail after a short time. I’ll need to know what manufacturer to choose,
> type, part number, and spec of hard drive?
>
> What the connection compatibility is and a wiring diagram, and are the
> physical dimensions able to directly ’swap-out’ the hard drive. A small
> capacity is fine, I just need to know what to order to replace my original
> hard drive?
>
>
>
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Re: Did Apple mix RAM/ROM in original Mac 128k?

[Hardware Mack]

haha pretty interesting   must have came from apple that way.
i have seen re-work and inconsistencies before.


Sent from the office of MacCaps.com

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Charles Phillips
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On Jun 18, 2017, at 7:23 PM, Phab4Phan  wrote:

> I bought an original Mac 128K in May 1984. It was the 1729th made in the 11th 
> week of 1984 according to the serial number.
> 
> It was NEVER opened from the day I brought it home. Never service, never 
> repaired--of this I am 99.9% certain.
> 
> So, how did my logic board end up with 3 different brands of RAM and the 2 
> ROM modules come from different countries? (Japan & Korea)
> 
> I'll include a picture of front and back of board, because the soldering on 
> the back is perfectly aligned, tiny dots--like a never-touched board should 
> look.
> 
> Any ideas, thoughts, etc will be appreciated.
> 
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Re: Classic II

[Hardware Mack]

Ya dylan is the man!  And has a killer collection too!  :)

On Jun 9, 2017 10:25 AM, "Ian Tonge"  wrote:

> That’s great information Dylan, Thank you for your patience I’ll go with
> what you have suggested
>
> Ian
>
>
> On 9 Jun 2017, at 15:19, Dylan McDermond  wrote:
>
> You are not going to find a “new” 50-pin SCSI drive. Like hardwaremack
> said, I’d look at getting a SCSI2SD. More reliable. Quieter. Plugs right
> into the the existing wiring. About the same price as a large, old SCSI
> drive on the used market (USD 59).
>
> http://www.codesrc.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=SCSI2SD
>
> http://store.inertialcomputing.com/category-s/100.htm
>
> - Dylan
>
>
> On Jun 8, 2017, at 7:59 PM, Ian Tonge  wrote:
>
> Can anyone suggest a replacement hard drive for my Mac Classic II? I’d
> prefer to buy a new low spec hard drive and not rely on an old unit which
> may fail after a short time. I’ll need to know what manufacturer to choose,
> type, part number, and spec of hard drive?
>
> What the connection compatibility is and a wiring diagram, and are the
> physical dimensions able to directly ’swap-out’ the hard drive. A small
> capacity is fine, I just need to know what to order to replace my original
> hard drive?
>
>
>
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Re: Classic II

[Hardware Mack]

scsi2sd when they are up on ebay for a reasonable price are a good buy
between 60-70 bucks...  also the classic and classic II support HD20
hard drive mode from the floppy port so a BMOW FLOPPY emu is really
great to own! floppy disks and floppy drives are also unreliable!

On Thu, Jun 8, 2017 at 2:41 PM, Ian Tonge  wrote:
> I’ll try that and check that it’s free to spin
>
> On 8 Jun 2017, at 18:16, Jason Johnson  wrote:
>
> At 27 years old most of them  go bad.  Might try pulling the cover and
> putting a new rubber stopper substance on the pin as the arm gets stuck to
> those sometimes.
> 
> From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com  on
> behalf of Ian Tonge 
> Sent: Thursday, June 8, 2017 9:37:07 AM
> To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: Classic II
>
> It’s the original Classic II Apple drive which worked fine until I fitted
> the recapped board back, I know it’s the original HD because I bought the
> Classic II new myself back in the day.
>
> It’s quite frustrating to know that the Hard Drive was OK until the repairs.
>
> Ian
>
>> On 8 Jun 2017, at 15:18, Dylan McDermond  wrote:
>>
>>
>>> On Jun 8, 2017, at 4:09 AM, Ian Tonge  wrote:
>>>
>>> I used the Disk first Aid floppy and it reported no fault, however, the
>>> initialise button was ‘dimmed out’ so I couldn’t do it?
>>
>> It sounds like it is not an Apple-branded drive. If it is not, you either
>> need an Apple branded drive or a different formatting tool (the “hacked” HD
>> SC Setup, Lido, etc).
>>
>> - Dylan
>>
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Re: Help: iici doesn't boot with 16mb ram Simms ?

[Hardware Mack]

https://www.bigmessowires.com/mac-rom-inator-ii/

oh yes forgot Big Mess Of wires picked up the 68k mac hac rom project...
i wish he did the 8meg rom... i guess 4mb was a compromise... between 2mb and 
8mb
its ok i still have like 4 or 5 8meg roms here... :)


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Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812






On Apr 25, 2017, at 3:32 AM, Hardware Mack <hardwarem...@gmail.com> wrote:

> correction to my previous email... i meant 128 megs of ram, though 64 megs 
> does still take a bit to boot up as well.   I use that that same company too 
> they are good... 18004memory or whatever they are on ebay and amazon... good 
> folks.
> 
>> yeah 64 meg of ram takes almost 2 minutes or more before it will even 
>> boot... keep in mind back then 128megs of ram would have cost like $80,000 
>> dollars... lol don't quote me on that price... but ALOT... anyways yeah if 
>> you want to look into a HACKED rom simm... DOUGG3 use to be the guy that 
>> Sold them...  and BBraun is the guy that made the ROM image that worked so 
>> well with the IIci and SE/30 as well. part of that beautiful rom that 
>> rob braun patched is a NO ram test for those with massive amounts of ram.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from the office of MacCaps.com
>> 
>> MACCAPS.COM 
>> 14511 W ELEVEN MILE ROAD
>> Oak Park, Mi 48237
>> UNITED STATES
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> Charles Phillips
>> 248 325 8812
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Apr 25, 2017, at 2:38 AM, Clark Martin <cm...@sonic.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> Give it plenty of time to boot.  The RAM test for 64 Mb will take quite a 
>>> while.  Try letting it boot for an hour, that should be more than enough 
>>> time.
>>> 
>>> There is a way to stop it from running the RAM test at startup.  IIRC you 
>>> hold down the Command key while opening the Memory control panel and an 
>>> additional option appears.  
>>> 
>>> Clark Martin
>>> A designated driver on the information Super Highway
>>> 
>>>> On Apr 24, 2017, at 8:39 PM, 'mossheart9' via Vintage Macs 
>>>> <vintage-macs@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hi again!
>>>> I bought 4 sticks of 16mb (4 x 16= 64mb total) 30-pin 80ns non-parity ram 
>>>> from 18004memory.com
>>>> 
>>>> I have working 4 x 4mb=16mb total old ram that boots just fine.
>>>> I am running system 7.5 (no updates, just 7.5, I chose 'for my machine 
>>>> only' when I installed the system. I have the Apple official floppy set.)
>>>> I do NOT have a parity chip on my iici board.
>>>> I have a delta powersupply (just replaced and functions great)
>>>> I re-capped the motherboard.
>>>> 
>>>> There are 8 ram slots in my iici. 
>>>> I installed the 4 (4x16mb)ram sticks in bank a and then left bank b empty.
>>>> I tried booting and I get the chime and then the screen just doesn't get a 
>>>> picture and nothing happens.
>>>> I tried adding 4 x 4mb into bank b and 4 x 16mb into bank a and booting 
>>>> and the same thing happens.
>>>> 
>>>> I put the 4 x 16mb into bank b and the 4 x 4mb into bank a and the same 
>>>> thing happens.
>>>> 
>>>> I put the 4 x 4 Mb into bank a and leave bank b empty and it boots 
>>>> perfectly.
>>>> 
>>>> I thought the ram was bad and I returned it and they sent 4 new 
>>>> replacement 16mb Simms.
>>>> 
>>>> I did the above again and got the same results with the replacement 4 x 
>>>> 16mb
>>>> 
>>>> I also tried holding the shift key down and it still wouldn't start.
>>>> 
>>>> I have no cards installed. (Not even the 32kb cache card).
>>>> I have zapped the pram.
>>>> The system battery is about 6 months old.
>>>> I have no external devices connected except Apple monitor, Apple keyboard, 
>>>> Apple mouse.
>>>> 
>>>> Is there something I'm doing wrong?
>>>> Can system 7.5 not see 16mb ram Simms?
>>>> It can't be possible that I would get 2 sets of 4 x 16mb ram and both sets 
>>>> would be bad?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> (Note: I had put a small red dot hidden in the corner of the ram so I 
>>>> would know if they just sent me the same ones back. The replacement were 
>>>> in fac

Re: Help: iici doesn't boot with 16mb ram Simms ?

[Hardware Mack]

correction to my previous email... i meant 128 megs of ram, though 64 megs does 
still take a bit to boot up as well.   I use that that same company too they 
are good... 18004memory or whatever they are on ebay and amazon... good folks.

> yeah 64 meg of ram takes almost 2 minutes or more before it will even boot... 
> keep in mind back then 128megs of ram would have cost like $80,000 dollars... 
> lol don't quote me on that price... but ALOT... anyways yeah if you want to 
> look into a HACKED rom simm... DOUGG3 use to be the guy that Sold them...  
> and BBraun is the guy that made the ROM image that worked so well with the 
> IIci and SE/30 as well. part of that beautiful rom that rob braun patched 
> is a NO ram test for those with massive amounts of ram.
> 
> 
> Sent from the office of MacCaps.com
> 
> MACCAPS.COM 
> 14511 W ELEVEN MILE ROAD
> Oak Park, Mi 48237
> UNITED STATES
> 
> Thanks.
> Charles Phillips
> 248 325 8812
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Apr 25, 2017, at 2:38 AM, Clark Martin  wrote:
> 
>> Give it plenty of time to boot.  The RAM test for 64 Mb will take quite a 
>> while.  Try letting it boot for an hour, that should be more than enough 
>> time.
>> 
>> There is a way to stop it from running the RAM test at startup.  IIRC you 
>> hold down the Command key while opening the Memory control panel and an 
>> additional option appears.  
>> 
>> Clark Martin
>> A designated driver on the information Super Highway
>> 
>>> On Apr 24, 2017, at 8:39 PM, 'mossheart9' via Vintage Macs 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi again!
>>> I bought 4 sticks of 16mb (4 x 16= 64mb total) 30-pin 80ns non-parity ram 
>>> from 18004memory.com
>>> 
>>> I have working 4 x 4mb=16mb total old ram that boots just fine.
>>> I am running system 7.5 (no updates, just 7.5, I chose 'for my machine 
>>> only' when I installed the system. I have the Apple official floppy set.)
>>> I do NOT have a parity chip on my iici board.
>>> I have a delta powersupply (just replaced and functions great)
>>> I re-capped the motherboard.
>>> 
>>> There are 8 ram slots in my iici. 
>>> I installed the 4 (4x16mb)ram sticks in bank a and then left bank b empty.
>>> I tried booting and I get the chime and then the screen just doesn't get a 
>>> picture and nothing happens.
>>> I tried adding 4 x 4mb into bank b and 4 x 16mb into bank a and booting and 
>>> the same thing happens.
>>> 
>>> I put the 4 x 16mb into bank b and the 4 x 4mb into bank a and the same 
>>> thing happens.
>>> 
>>> I put the 4 x 4 Mb into bank a and leave bank b empty and it boots 
>>> perfectly.
>>> 
>>> I thought the ram was bad and I returned it and they sent 4 new replacement 
>>> 16mb Simms.
>>> 
>>> I did the above again and got the same results with the replacement 4 x 16mb
>>> 
>>> I also tried holding the shift key down and it still wouldn't start.
>>> 
>>> I have no cards installed. (Not even the 32kb cache card).
>>> I have zapped the pram.
>>> The system battery is about 6 months old.
>>> I have no external devices connected except Apple monitor, Apple keyboard, 
>>> Apple mouse.
>>> 
>>> Is there something I'm doing wrong?
>>> Can system 7.5 not see 16mb ram Simms?
>>> It can't be possible that I would get 2 sets of 4 x 16mb ram and both sets 
>>> would be bad?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> (Note: I had put a small red dot hidden in the corner of the ram so I would 
>>> know if they just sent me the same ones back. The replacement were in fact 
>>> ones I had not tried.)
>> 
>> -- 
>> -- 
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Re: Help: iici doesn't boot with 16mb ram Simms ?

[Hardware Mack]

yeah 64 meg of ram takes almost 2 minutes or more before it will even boot... 
keep in mind back then 128megs of ram would have cost like $80,000 dollars... 
lol don't quote me on that price... but ALOT... anyways yeah if you want to 
look into a HACKED rom simm... DOUGG3 use to be the guy that Sold them...  and 
BBraun is the guy that made the ROM image that worked so well with the IIci and 
SE/30 as well. part of that beautiful rom that rob braun patched is a NO 
ram test for those with massive amounts of ram.


Sent from the office of MacCaps.com

MACCAPS.COM 
14511 W ELEVEN MILE ROAD
Oak Park, Mi 48237
UNITED STATES

Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812






On Apr 25, 2017, at 2:38 AM, Clark Martin  wrote:

> Give it plenty of time to boot.  The RAM test for 64 Mb will take quite a 
> while.  Try letting it boot for an hour, that should be more than enough time.
> 
> There is a way to stop it from running the RAM test at startup.  IIRC you 
> hold down the Command key while opening the Memory control panel and an 
> additional option appears.  
> 
> Clark Martin
> A designated driver on the information Super Highway
> 
>> On Apr 24, 2017, at 8:39 PM, 'mossheart9' via Vintage Macs 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi again!
>> I bought 4 sticks of 16mb (4 x 16= 64mb total) 30-pin 80ns non-parity ram 
>> from 18004memory.com
>> 
>> I have working 4 x 4mb=16mb total old ram that boots just fine.
>> I am running system 7.5 (no updates, just 7.5, I chose 'for my machine only' 
>> when I installed the system. I have the Apple official floppy set.)
>> I do NOT have a parity chip on my iici board.
>> I have a delta powersupply (just replaced and functions great)
>> I re-capped the motherboard.
>> 
>> There are 8 ram slots in my iici. 
>> I installed the 4 (4x16mb)ram sticks in bank a and then left bank b empty.
>> I tried booting and I get the chime and then the screen just doesn't get a 
>> picture and nothing happens.
>> I tried adding 4 x 4mb into bank b and 4 x 16mb into bank a and booting and 
>> the same thing happens.
>> 
>> I put the 4 x 16mb into bank b and the 4 x 4mb into bank a and the same 
>> thing happens.
>> 
>> I put the 4 x 4 Mb into bank a and leave bank b empty and it boots perfectly.
>> 
>> I thought the ram was bad and I returned it and they sent 4 new replacement 
>> 16mb Simms.
>> 
>> I did the above again and got the same results with the replacement 4 x 16mb
>> 
>> I also tried holding the shift key down and it still wouldn't start.
>> 
>> I have no cards installed. (Not even the 32kb cache card).
>> I have zapped the pram.
>> The system battery is about 6 months old.
>> I have no external devices connected except Apple monitor, Apple keyboard, 
>> Apple mouse.
>> 
>> Is there something I'm doing wrong?
>> Can system 7.5 not see 16mb ram Simms?
>> It can't be possible that I would get 2 sets of 4 x 16mb ram and both sets 
>> would be bad?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> (Note: I had put a small red dot hidden in the corner of the ram so I would 
>> know if they just sent me the same ones back. The replacement were in fact 
>> ones I had not tried.)
> 
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Re: SCSI2SD

[Hardware Mack]

the one for around 60 bucks is fine.


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On Feb 25, 2017, at 10:11 PM, Julian Templeman  
wrote:

> I've got an SE/30 with a dead hard disk, and several people have recommended 
> using a SCSI2SD board.
> 
> Looking at the InertialComputing site, there seem to be several options with 
> quite a price difference, and to my untrained eye, not that much difference 
> between them. Does anyone have any opinions on which might be the best one to 
> get?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> julian
> 
> -- 
> Templeman Consulting Limited
> IT Consulting and Training 
> 
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Re: LC 520 - Yet more issues....

[Hardware Mack]

That's probably just a bad hard drive the only way to tell for sure will be
to pull it out and try to another Mac

On Dec 29, 2016 5:38 PM, "John-Robert La Porta" 
wrote:

> Anything that might cause the machine to work fine, but not power the HD
> correctly to be able to spin up?
>
> On Thursday, December 29, 2016 at 4:10:47 PM UTC-5, Notgoing Totellyou
> wrote:
>>
>> yeah the ab's on those need caps bad  the output filter side
>> always has leakers at the base.
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 29, 2016 at 11:41 AM, John-Robert La Porta
>>  wrote:
>> > That battery is brand new, should be just fine and I will make sure to
>> check
>> > it this evening. I will remark that this machine has been in storage
>> for a
>> > good 7+ years or so, and needed the re-capping as it would not turn on
>> at
>> > all. There was no damage to traces that could be found and I cleaned
>> the
>> > entire board before putting it back into service. My next question is:
>> is
>> > there a possibility that some caps or something else in the power
>> supply
>> > could be going bad? Everything else works fine, so I'm not sure...
>> >
>> > On Thursday, December 29, 2016 at 10:58:15 AM UTC-5, flags wrote:
>> >>
>> >> On 12/29/16 2:42 AM, Jason Johnson wrote:
>> >> > is the motherboard recapped? (new capacitors?)?  if not thats first.
>> >> >  Needs cap goo  washed off and dried during the process.  After that
>> you
>> >> > can start really troubleshooting.
>> >> >
>> >> > *From:* vintag...@googlegroups.com  on
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> How is the battery voltage?
>> >>
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Re: LC 520 - Yet more issues....

[Hardware Mack]

yeah the ab's on those need caps bad  the output filter side
always has leakers at the base.

On Thu, Dec 29, 2016 at 11:41 AM, John-Robert La Porta
 wrote:
> That battery is brand new, should be just fine and I will make sure to check
> it this evening. I will remark that this machine has been in storage for a
> good 7+ years or so, and needed the re-capping as it would not turn on at
> all. There was no damage to traces that could be found and I cleaned the
> entire board before putting it back into service. My next question is: is
> there a possibility that some caps or something else in the power supply
> could be going bad? Everything else works fine, so I'm not sure...
>
> On Thursday, December 29, 2016 at 10:58:15 AM UTC-5, flags wrote:
>>
>> On 12/29/16 2:42 AM, Jason Johnson wrote:
>> > is the motherboard recapped? (new capacitors?)?  if not thats first.
>> >  Needs cap goo  washed off and dried during the process.  After that you
>> > can start really troubleshooting.
>> >
>> > *From:* vintag...@googlegroups.com  on
>>
>>
>> How is the battery voltage?
>>
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Re: 630DOS random shutdowns :(

[Hardware Mack]

chances are you need caps on the mainboard and the psu.
a replacement will probably need the sane thing.


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On Nov 6, 2016, at 5:07 AM, Dr. Zeissler  wrote:

> Apple Macintosh 630DOS

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Re: Mac Classic boot problem

[Hardware Mack]

yep,   Get readings for the +5 and +12


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On Mar 9, 2016, at 5:20 PM, Stephen Collins wrote:

> Should I be able to test with a multimeter and get 12V on the drive's power 
> lead?
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 4:19:09 PM UTC-6, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:
> my guess is the 12v rail is shot... as that is the first to go because of the 
> bad caps on the ab.
> Charles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from the office of MacCaps.com
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> 248 325 8812
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mar 9, 2016, at 5:15 PM, Stephen Collins wrote:
> 
>> Well good news and bad news. I successfully replaced all the capacitors and 
>> cleaned the MB thoroughly. Sure enough, it fixed the sound issue.
>> 
>> Bad news is still no internal hard drive. Last week, it would occasionally 
>> recognize on startup. Now it never does. I know the drive is good because it 
>> works fine in another machine. What should I try next?
>> 
>> 
>> On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 10:41:42 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
>> 
>> > On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Stephen Collins  wrote: 
>> > 1) As described above, the internal hard drive is missing most of the 
>> > time, but will occasionally appear on bootup alongside the Floppy EMU 
>> > drive. 2) No sound. 
>> > 
>> > I ask again, does this still sound like an issue that a recap will solve? 
>> > I 
>> 
>> More than likely. Be sure to wash the board well to remove any dried 
>> electrolyte and inspect for broken traces. 
>> 
>> - Dylan
>> 
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Re: Mac Classic boot problem

[Hardware Mack]

my guess is the 12v rail is shot... as that is the first to go because of the 
bad caps on the ab.
Charles




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On Mar 9, 2016, at 5:15 PM, Stephen Collins wrote:

> Well good news and bad news. I successfully replaced all the capacitors and 
> cleaned the MB thoroughly. Sure enough, it fixed the sound issue.
> 
> Bad news is still no internal hard drive. Last week, it would occasionally 
> recognize on startup. Now it never does. I know the drive is good because it 
> works fine in another machine. What should I try next?
> 
> 
> On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 10:41:42 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
> 
> > On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Stephen Collins  wrote: 
> > 1) As described above, the internal hard drive is missing most of the time, 
> > but will occasionally appear on bootup alongside the Floppy EMU drive. 2) 
> > No sound. 
> > 
> > I ask again, does this still sound like an issue that a recap will solve? I 
> 
> More than likely. Be sure to wash the board well to remove any dried 
> electrolyte and inspect for broken traces. 
> 
> - Dylan
> 
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Re: Performs 450 with no hard drive detected

[Hardware Mack]

could be dead hd,  but could be the TDK psu needing caps 12v rail goes 
first.
also the MB needs caps.

so i would suggest re-capping the PSU and then the MB, then try it.

Charles


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On Mar 5, 2016, at 4:33 PM, Scott Brant wrote:

> I've got a Performa 450, one day it worked fine, the next day it can't detect 
> the hard drive.  Any ideas?  Thank you 
> 
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Re: Mac Classic boot problem

[Hardware Mack]

I use those caps alot but not that method.   There are methods to
removing SMT caps,using 2 soldering irons, using SMT hot air
station, Twist off or Wiggle off.   Some swear by hot tweezers, The
majority of the time I remove the bad caps with hot air.

On 68kmla/ThinkClassic we have always talked about ways to do things
your self, even if you don't have the proper equipment, and Twist off
is like'd by some folks,  Other folks swear by the 2 soldering iron
method.

Sometimes with some boards... they are so F'ed up... that no matter
what you do, the partially rotted pad will come off.  Doesn't happen a
lot to me... but it all depends on how nasty the boards is... Lately i
have been getting some really nasty ones in. to each is own.

Charles
MacCaps.com

On Fri, Mar 4, 2016 at 1:15 PM, Wesley Furr  wrote:
> I understand that is the method Charles (Mr. MacCaps himself) uses with
> good success...that's how I learned it.  I've done several that way with
> no problems so far...one or two were at least medium-ugly from the leaks.
> On the other hand, I pulled a pad loose on one fighting with it trying to
> use the de-solder method.  If you don't like the grip & twist method, the
> other route I've done that works (but is still more work) is using wire
> cutters to cut them off at the base, then extract the remains...though I
> worry a bit about that because the cutting process seems to pull upwards,
> which may or may not be a problem...
>
> Wesley
>
>
> On Fri, March 4, 2016 1:08 pm, Louis Ciotti wrote:
>> Grabbing and twisting just seem like the pad will get ripped off,
>> especially on a board that is slightly damaged from a leaky cap.
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 4, 2016 at 1:03 PM, Wesley Furr  wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Sounds good to me...but of course you're working from my play book.
>>> :-)
>>> Removing the caps like that makes me nervous, but I've not yet had a
>>> problem...and it's so much easier and faster.  Make sure you keep
>>> twisting and not pulling up after it starts coming loose...if a leg is
>>> hanging on, that could more easily cause damage to the pad than the
>>> sideways twisting...or so it seems to me anyway.
>>>
>>> Wesley
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, March 4, 2016 12:10 pm, Stephen Collins wrote:
>>>
 I have inspected around the caps, and see no evidence of leakage.
 Regardless I think they are weak, and it's probably a matter of time.
 Here's the procedure I'm going with (via Wesley above).



 Capacitor replacement:
 - Grab cap with pliers, push down & twist
 - Clean area with isopropyl and q-tips
 - Add flux, remove legs with soldering iron
 - Clean again
 - Use braid to wick remaining solder on pad
 - Clean again
 - Flow solder onto 1st pad
 - Hold component in position and heat pad
 - Solder in the other side




 On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 10:57:24 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:


>
>
>> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:50 AM, Stephen Collins
>> >
>>
> > wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Ok will do. Not as nervous about the surface mount repair since I
>>  looked
> at Dave Jones' EEVlog video on the topic. Thanks for the help
> everyone. Fingers crossed!
>
>
>
> Just be sure to CLEAN ti well. Not only the general surface but
> clean as much crust from the pads as possible. Use a high percentage
> isopropyl or an acetone/IPA mix. I like to tin the pads, place the
> cap on top, then heat each lead until it sucks down to the pad.
>
> Here is a good picture of a leaked cap (C8) on an SE/30:
>
>
>
> http://www.applefool.com/applefool/Macintosh_SE_30_%28Soldered%29_f
> iles /Media/DSC06831/DSC06831.jpg
>
>
>
> Here is a good picture of a replacement cap (C69) on an Quadra
> 840AV
>
>
>
> http://www.applefool.com/applefool/Quadra_840av_files/Media/DSC0704
> 7/DS
> C07047.jpg
>
>
>
> - Dylan
>
>

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Re: Connecting a Classic to the internet?

[Hardware Mack]

contact TED hodges... he has a whole box of them.
tell him charles phillips sent you... that way he will give you the best deal.
Ted Hodges 



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On Mar 1, 2016, at 8:57 AM, Harold Appel wrote:

> Anyone know where I can get a Asante Desktop EN/SC-10T adapter?
> 
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Re: SE/30 analog board

[Hardware Mack]

they are!
Thanks
Charles
MacCaps.com

On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 6:17 PM, Jochen Schäfer
 wrote:
> Hi.
>
> Can somebody tell me, whether the analog boards of SE and SE/30 are 
> compatible?
>
>
> Bye Jochen
>
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Re: Copying OS 8 from CD to floppies

[Hardware Mack]

well first... pay attention to the caps... they are probably already leaking 
and should be changed as caps are a huge problem with 68kmac's
also depending on what PSU you have in there... it probably needs caps too...   
and your old board, if it stopped working ... that was due to bad caps.

Mac os 8.1 you can find external scsi cd rom drives...  but ha. even though are 
needing caps these days too...
you could use a newer mac and a scsi zip drive, and copy the install over from 
the cd to the zip disk and install that way.

also you could get a floppy emu from BMOW

also you could get a SCSI 2 SD, there is a guy selling those on ebay... you can 
put what ever you want on the sd cards of the EMU or SCSI 2 sd

also there is a guy in japan that sells SCSI 2 CF adaptors as well.

all things to think about.



Sent from the office of MacCaps.com

MACCAPS.COM 
2 ROETHEL DRIVE
SUITE D
NOVI, MICHIGAN 48375
UNITED STATES

Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812





On Feb 2, 2016, at 8:12 PM, Lee Kolb wrote:

> I have been given an LC475 to replace my recently deceased LC.
> It came with a very abbreviated operating system, and asks that the operating 
> system be loaded from the appropriate floppies when I start it. I suspect it 
> has some sort of emergency OS loaded, but I am not very technical, just a Mac 
> user.
> I have obtained OS 8.1 on a CD. Is there some way I can transfer to a set of 
> floppies (using another computer with both floppy and CD drives) so I can get 
> the LC475 operational?
> 
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Re: 128k M0001P error with sad face

[Hardware Mack]

yes ALL bad.. especially the apple logo'd ones... You get it working
by changing one or 2... then 2 months one more,  then 6 months 1 or 2
more.  etc. The 128k and some Apple IIc 's with that apple logo
suffer.

changing all 16 chips is a big nasty job... but i am really good at it
and complete it with repeatable success.  Its the best way to go, get
it done and your good.

Charles

PS: Techknight from 68kmla suggested the ram might have been rushed to
production, and contamination might of been the issue.  Problems with
the ram have been quite an issue.


On Mon, Feb 1, 2016 at 1:37 PM, Dylan McDermond  wrote:
>
>> On Feb 1, 2016, at 10:34 AM, Britt Dodd  wrote:
>>
>> I think something in the error code (last set of numbers maybe) indicate 
>> *which* bank is bad. I'd say it would be highly unlikely all of them would 
>> be bad.
>
> In my experience, when one goes bad, the rest will follow soon if not 
> immediately. The best course of action is to replace them all when you have 
> it apart.
>
> - Dylan
>
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Re: LC 520 - Failure to start

[Hardware Mack]

no your board needs work... i have dealt with these things hundreds of times.

Sent from the office of MacCaps.com

MACCAPS.COM 
2 ROETHEL DRIVE
SUITE D
NOVI, MICHIGAN 48375
UNITED STATES

Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812





On Nov 24, 2015, at 1:50 AM, coverturtle wrote:

> If it started OK previously and no huge changes were made and it wasn't 
> abused then the failure is often due to an old battery.  A trick we often 
> used to start it was to restart it quickly by pressing the start button 
> quickly in succession.  Those are the easy fixes.  YMMV!
> 
> On 11/23/2015 10:40 PM, John-Robert La Porta wrote:
>> Hi everyone,
>> 
>> 
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Re: Question about Macs? // AOL shuts down AOL 4.0 and 5.0 (drat!)

[Hardware Mack]

pots line... what is a pots line? :)

just build your self a network with a bridge mac.
then you can do things on your own terms.

or just freely enjoy IRC / FTP / Pine / NS Communicator :-)
Find an isp that still allows Telnet .

http://www.jagshouse.com/classicinternet.html

the cool news is MacII and forward can accept reasonably priced Nubus
ethernet cards,   Mac SE has a PDS slot you could get some hard to
find NIC's for.  SE/30 is a little easier.   And there is always the
SCSI 2 Ethernet adaptors, I know a guy in Denver, Ted Hodges, has a
whole box of these things.

I seriously doubt you will be successful in making AOL support older
software versions.

I kinda feel sorry for AOL a little bit.. I don't even know how they
are able to stay in business.

What Britt Dodd said...  :-)  yeah i mean that sounds kind of interesting too!


On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 1:19 PM, Britt Dodd  wrote:
> Someone will need to implement an open-source version of the OSCAR protocol,
> which would "allow" AOL 4/5 systems to continue working. Up until now,
> requests from AOL 4/5 would still be accepted, but would display a banner
> saying that this isn't supported anymore.
>
> What would be done would be to tailor a version of OSCAR to accept and
> respond to calls to and from AOL4/5.
>
> This would be relatively easy to implement, especially for TCP/IP
> connections. There is a neat trick to apply to a router that would "fool"
> your PC into talking to another server instead of AOL's server when
> connecting, and an open-sourced OSCAR endpoint can be created to "accept"
> these requests.
>
> Now, this would initially have to be very limited in scope, and really would
> re-implement most internet functions (email, web, etc) into a form that
> AOL4/5 would understand.
>
> I think the protocols involved were TOS 1 and 2, but I could be wrong there.
> I do know that OSCAR itself wasn't well-document, and I regret now that I
> didn't take more snapshots of when this still worked to get an idea of what
> responses will need to be implemented/working.
>
> It is on my list of things to-do though, as I have a bunch of Macs that I'd
> like to use AOL with.
>
>
> Britt
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 1:05 PM Ken Daggett  wrote:
>>
>>
>> On 19 Oct 2015, at 09:29:27 AM PDT, BigClaim via Vintage Macs wrote:
>>
>> > I can't believe this.
>> >
>> > There must be a way the  MAC community can force AOL to continue to
>> > provide
>> > old Mac software versions of  AOL - how about a class action
>> > lawsuit.  I
>> > have done personally class  action lawsuits - they are very doable
>> > and most of
>> > the time work in getting the  relief desired.
>> >
>> > I have to find as many online Mac groups as I can and see  who cares
>> > about
>> > AOL 4.0 and 5.0
>> >
>> > Thanks for listening and any help  offered.
>> >
>> > Michael Smith
>> > Palm Desert CA
>> >
>> > In a message dated  10/18/2015 10:55:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> > cockatoo.syst...@bigpond.com  writes:
>> >> May I ask a question about Macs on  this board?
>> >
>> > O  course, that is why we are here!
>> --
>> You originally asked about a question. What is it?
>>
>> You appear to have a gripe about AOL refusing support for a free
>> service. As a user, your option appears to be to stop using the
>> service and thus deny them the advertising revenue they might gain
>> from your patronage. Requiring them to maintain dial-up access for a
>> service that provides no revenue seems a bit self serving.
>>
>> Ken
>>
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Re: Caps parts list and Radio Shack close out

[Hardware Mack]

+1 yup,  MLCC Caps...   RS probably won't even have enough 47uf 16v
radials for you to even purchase.  They surely will not have any SMT
Lytics.

On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 4:30 PM, Wesley Furr wes...@megley.com wrote:
 If you compare with online prices, you'll probably find that even at 90%
 off they still aren't all that great of a deal.  You probably also won't
 be able to find the surface mount parts...unless you want to try soldering
 on big can capacitors (as I saw someone online advocating one time), but
 that just doesn't seem like a good idea to me.  Might be able to find caps
 for the power supply if those need replacing...not sure how the LC475
 power supplies compare to early LC ones that seem to be failing...also not
 sure those are worth worrying about until the power supply ceases to
 function, but someone here maybe can correct me if that's not a good idea.

 I successfully re-capped an LCII with MLCC capacitors, and they were WAY
 easier to deal with than matching original electrolytic can
 capacitors...should also last longer too.  I've got caps to do I think two
 more, but haven't gotten around to it yet.  I did look a short while back
 and found someone on ebay selling MLCC's in small quantities for a good
 price...I really need to take stock and order what I need.  Got a handful
 of LC series machines and they all either need or likely will need new
 caps.  The LC475 I have looks good so far, but probably should go ahead
 and replace them anyway before they fail and leak...

 While you are at RS, check out their batteries section, you can probably
 pick up 1/2AA PRAM batteries cheap.  If yours has a red Maxell PRAM
 battery, I would replace it whether it needs it or not...they seem to have
 a high failure rate...making a mess of the motherboard in the process.

 Wesley


 On Wed, June 24, 2015 4:08 pm, Brian wrote:


 Hi our local RS closing has 90% off caps … wondering if somewhere /
 someone has a caps parts list appropriate for my quadra 605 / performa
 475. The caps are ok now but presume is not long before they go


 Btw I have a working 630 CD with heavy upgrades working but dilapidated
 that could use a good home as well as an AV monitor, zip code 94110

 Brian




 On Jun 24, 2015, at 6:18 AM, vintage-macs@googlegroups.com wrote:



 vintage-macs@googlegroups.comGoogle Groups Today's topic summary
 View all topics
 Mac 128k / 512k I have a Mac Plus tube - is that too old to work in your
 - 1 Update
 Mac 128k / 512k - 1 Update
 macintosh ii - 5 Updates Mac 128k / 512k I have a Mac Plus tube - is that
 too old to work in your bigcl...@aol.com: Jun 24 01:19AM -0400


 I have a Mac Plus tube - is that too old to work in your situation?



 In a message dated 6/21/2015 9:43:56 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
 rya...@mac.com writes:

 Are you going to end up with ...more
 Back to top
 Mac 128k / 512k
 Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 02:35PM -0700


 Hey notgoingtotell you, saw the mac scrolls on your website, great
 manual, but i would prefer the schematic , can you get me one please?
 Cheers


 On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 9:59:03 AM UTC+1, ...more
 Back to top
 macintosh ii Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 08:31AM
 -0700


 got a macintosh ii, removed both batteries , did a forced startup using
 a 3v power source, but i get no picture or chime.
 Capacitors on these machine seem to have all leaked, could a no boot /
 no ...more coverturtle covertur...@gmail.com: Jun 23 12:41PM -0400

 Is this a plain Mac ii with the large rectangular box? Just curious.
 If the tops of the caps are visibly open or popped, then they are
 best replaced before even attempting to power up for ...more Matt Patoray
 mspproducti...@gmail.com: Jun 23 12:52PM -0400


 Are you sure it is a mac II, the mac II was a 68020 machine not a
 68030.


 It could be an issue with your power supply?



 --
 Matt Patoray
 Owner, MSP Productions
 (330)542-3698 ...more
 Kevin Dady osg...@cheesefactory.us: Jun 23 11:28AM -0700


 On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-5, Jon Kettenhofen wrote:

 with a reworking station, better if you use a vacuum assisted
 soldering gun but doable with much care taken with a normal ...more
 Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 11:53AM -0700


 this is a mac ii with a 68030 16mhz alright...

 Jon: Yes it's the large box mac. it could be a power supply issue, i
 have a iifx it uses the same power supply i can try and swap it. ...more
  Back to top
 You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this
 group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To
 unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an
 email to vintage-macs+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.

 --
 --
 -
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 group. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and
 our netiquette guide is at
 

Re: Caps parts list and Radio Shack close out

[Hardware Mack]

hahah Dylan.  :-)

On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com
wrote:


 http://maccaps.com/MacCaps/Capacitor_Reference/Entries/1993/10/21_Macintosh_Quadra_605.html

 On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Brian cymraeg...@gmail.com wrote:


 Hi our local RS closing has 90% off caps … wondering if somewhere /
 someone has a caps parts list appropriate for my quadra 605 / performa 475.
 The caps are ok now but presume is not long before they go

 Btw I have a working 630 CD with heavy upgrades working but dilapidated
 that could use a good home as well as an AV monitor, zip code 94110

 Brian



 On Jun 24, 2015, at 6:18 AM, vintage-macs@googlegroups.com wrote:

 vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email#!forum/vintage-macs/topics
   Google
 Groups
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email/#!overview
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email/#!overview
   Today's topic summary
  View all topics
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email#!forum/vintage-macs/topics

-  Mac 128k / 512k I have a Mac Plus tube - is that too old to work
in your #14e273e9965d360c_14e272f81856c4ba_group_thread_0 - 1 Update
-  Mac 128k / 512k #14e273e9965d360c_14e272f81856c4ba_group_thread_1
- 1 Update
-  macintosh ii #14e273e9965d360c_14e272f81856c4ba_group_thread_2 - 5
Updates

   Mac 128k / 512k I have a Mac Plus tube - is that too old to work in
 your
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/t/afe3b3e36cca8551?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   bigcl...@aol.com: Jun 24 01:19AM -0400

 I have a Mac Plus tube - is that too old to work in your situation?


 In a message dated 6/21/2015 9:43:56 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
 rya...@mac.com writes:

 Are you going to end up with ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/6a971df328b6b3d6?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Back to top #14e273e9965d360c_14e272f81856c4ba_digest_top
   Mac 128k / 512k
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/t/bf8c53b00e2c545?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 02:35PM -0700

 Hey notgoingtotell you, saw the mac scrolls on your website, great
 manual,
 but i would prefer the schematic , can you get me one please?
 Cheers

 On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 9:59:03 AM UTC+1, ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/cd6797216b3e72ce?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Back to top #14e273e9965d360c_14e272f81856c4ba_digest_top
   macintosh ii
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/t/53aaf35128bf9934?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 08:31AM -0700

 got a macintosh ii, removed both batteries , did a forced startup using a
 3v power source, but i get no picture or chime.
 Capacitors on these machine seem to have all leaked, could a no boot / no
 ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/fa27f55c892cd2f0?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   coverturtle covertur...@gmail.com: Jun 23 12:41PM -0400

 Is this a plain Mac ii with the large rectangular box? Just curious.
 If the tops of the caps are visibly open or popped, then they are
 best replaced before even attempting to power up for ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/7aff0b757fe7c1f?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Matt Patoray mspproducti...@gmail.com: Jun 23 12:52PM -0400

 Are you sure it is a mac II, the mac II was a 68020 machine not a 68030.

 It could be an issue with your power supply?


 --
 Matt Patoray
 Owner, MSP Productions
 (330)542-3698 ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/49de4c86f4ea4c55?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Kevin Dady osg...@cheesefactory.us: Jun 23 11:28AM -0700

 On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-5, Jon Kettenhofen wrote:
  with a reworking station, better if you use a vacuum assisted soldering
 gun
  but doable with much care taken with a normal ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/8a5f5fca46c17cd5?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 11:53AM -0700

 this is a mac ii with a 68030 16mhz alright...

 Jon: Yes it's the large box mac. it could be a power supply issue, i have
 a
 iifx it uses the same power supply i can try and swap it. ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/8eca10d58d36177d?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Back to top #14e273e9965d360c_14e272f81856c4ba_digest_top
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Re: Caps parts list and Radio Shack close out

[Hardware Mack]

http://maccaps.com/MacCaps/Capacitor_Reference/Entries/1993/10/21_Macintosh_Quadra_605.html

On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Brian cymraeg...@gmail.com wrote:


 Hi our local RS closing has 90% off caps … wondering if somewhere /
 someone has a caps parts list appropriate for my quadra 605 / performa 475.
 The caps are ok now but presume is not long before they go

 Btw I have a working 630 CD with heavy upgrades working but dilapidated
 that could use a good home as well as an AV monitor, zip code 94110

 Brian



 On Jun 24, 2015, at 6:18 AM, vintage-macs@googlegroups.com wrote:

 vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email#!forum/vintage-macs/topics
   Google
 Groups
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email/#!overview
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email/#!overview
   Today's topic summary
  View all topics
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email#!forum/vintage-macs/topics

-  Mac 128k / 512k I have a Mac Plus tube - is that too old to work in
your #14e272f81856c4ba_group_thread_0 - 1 Update
-  Mac 128k / 512k #14e272f81856c4ba_group_thread_1 - 1 Update
-  macintosh ii #14e272f81856c4ba_group_thread_2 - 5 Updates

   Mac 128k / 512k I have a Mac Plus tube - is that too old to work in
 your
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/t/afe3b3e36cca8551?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   bigcl...@aol.com: Jun 24 01:19AM -0400

 I have a Mac Plus tube - is that too old to work in your situation?


 In a message dated 6/21/2015 9:43:56 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
 rya...@mac.com writes:

 Are you going to end up with ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/6a971df328b6b3d6?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Back to top #14e272f81856c4ba_digest_top
   Mac 128k / 512k
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/t/bf8c53b00e2c545?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 02:35PM -0700

 Hey notgoingtotell you, saw the mac scrolls on your website, great manual,
 but i would prefer the schematic , can you get me one please?
 Cheers

 On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 9:59:03 AM UTC+1, ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/cd6797216b3e72ce?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Back to top #14e272f81856c4ba_digest_top
   macintosh ii
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/t/53aaf35128bf9934?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 08:31AM -0700

 got a macintosh ii, removed both batteries , did a forced startup using a
 3v power source, but i get no picture or chime.
 Capacitors on these machine seem to have all leaked, could a no boot / no
 ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/fa27f55c892cd2f0?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   coverturtle covertur...@gmail.com: Jun 23 12:41PM -0400

 Is this a plain Mac ii with the large rectangular box? Just curious.
 If the tops of the caps are visibly open or popped, then they are
 best replaced before even attempting to power up for ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/7aff0b757fe7c1f?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Matt Patoray mspproducti...@gmail.com: Jun 23 12:52PM -0400

 Are you sure it is a mac II, the mac II was a 68020 machine not a 68030.

 It could be an issue with your power supply?


 --
 Matt Patoray
 Owner, MSP Productions
 (330)542-3698 ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/49de4c86f4ea4c55?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Kevin Dady osg...@cheesefactory.us: Jun 23 11:28AM -0700

 On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-5, Jon Kettenhofen wrote:
  with a reworking station, better if you use a vacuum assisted soldering
 gun
  but doable with much care taken with a normal ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/8a5f5fca46c17cd5?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Vasco Morais vascodanielmor...@gmail.com: Jun 23 11:53AM -0700

 this is a mac ii with a 68030 16mhz alright...

 Jon: Yes it's the large box mac. it could be a power supply issue, i have
 a
 iifx it uses the same power supply i can try and swap it. ...more
 http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs/msg/8eca10d58d36177d?utm_source=digestutm_medium=email
   Back to top #14e272f81856c4ba_digest_top
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Re: Mac 128k Sad Mac Error Help (newbie)

[Hardware Mack]

sounds to me like it needs 16 chips of fresh new memory, and she will be good 
as new!
Charles



Sent from the office of MacCaps.com

MACCAPS.COM 
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Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812




On Jun 22, 2015, at 11:50 PM, Dan T. wrote:

 Hey guys! Thanks for this group, I think its really going to help me. 
 
 I purchased a Mac 128k from eBay with an Sad Mac error code. At boot, it 
 shows 02 with a little graphic (a line of bits?) moving across the 
 bottom of the error code. My googling shows that it should be a memory chip 
 that is broken but since it's giving no subcode I have no idea which chip is 
 bad. Is there a way to find which one is messed up or is it hopeless?
 
 I have let it sit for awhile and the bits did not go away.
 
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Re: Powermac 6500/225 capacitors

[Hardware Mack]

awesome can you link the ad you bought, we can tell you if maybe the
ones you picked up are ok.

On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 1:40 AM,  jrreid...@gmail.com wrote:
 Alright, thanks you two for the help.

 Got them picked out on eBay already.



 On May 17, 2015, at 11:34 PM, 'Keith Jamison' via Vintage Macs
 vintage-macs@googlegroups.com wrote:

 http://industrial.panasonic.com/lecs/www-data/pdf/ABA/ABACE115.pdf

 On Page 1, look for the box labelled 'Marking' near the bottom of the page.

 Yep, can't argue with Dylan.

 100 microFarad 6.3V Hi temp.

 7P4 is the lot or batch number used to identify the manufacturing date and
 location. In case there's a recall.

 Regards,

 Keith





 On Monday, 18 May 2015, 3:20, Dylan McDermond dy...@mcdermond.net wrote:



 On May 17, 2015, at 6:14 PM, jrreid...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae92/jreidsma/image.jpg1_zpsx8xfgbqt.jpg

 Like I said, 100 mfd, 6.3v

 http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/PCE3852CT-ND

 - Dylan
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Re: 1/2AA PRAM Batteries at Radio Shack

[Hardware Mack]

I bought 100 from this guy a year ago,  and just bought another 150 last month.

looks like he has 2 ad's up
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-15x-ER14250M-3-6V-1-2-AA-Lithium-Battery-with-LED-light-/171098716663?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item27d64739f7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-50x-ER14250M-3-6V-1-2-AA-Lithium-Battery-with-LED-light-/181193036942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item2a2ff2548e

if you ask him nicely he will cut them out for you :)
other wise you get the whole board.   Apparently they made up 10,000 of these 
for some cruise liner in Quebec 
and the the buyer didn't end up coming through so he is stick with 10,000 of 
these things.
they are a high intensity strobe that detects water and will automatically 
start to strobe once once detected.  they are for life vests.


Charles



Sent from the office of MacCaps.com

MACCAPS.COM
2 ROETHEL DRIVE
SUITE F
NOVI, MICHIGAN 48375
UNITED STATES

Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812



On Mar 21, 2015, at 9:11 PM, Wesley Furr wrote:

 Hope it helps someone else out.  If you can't find anything local, you might 
 check ebay...I looked there to see what the going price was and found lots 
 for sale in Radio Shack packaging...obviously for more than $2 though!  I 
 don't recall what prices were the last time I looked (obviously $20 list at 
 Radio Shack is way high), so not sure if the current prices on ebay are good 
 or not...
  
 Wesley
  
 
 From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com] On 
 Behalf Of Peter R
 Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 5:41 PM
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: 1/2AA PRAM Batteries at Radio Shack
 
 Thanks for the tip, Wesley. I actually could use one. I'll keep an eye out if 
 any stores are still around.
 
 
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Re: Mac Plus flpppy drive - cleaned and lubed, but no love!

[Hardware Mack]

bmow offers a Loaded SD card now, that you can buy with your floppy emu.
( big mess of wires )

On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 5:50 PM, j...@cimmeri.com j...@cimmeri.com wrote:

 Just curious, what floppy emu are you going to use?


 On 2/10/2015 5:03 PM, Ronathan2001 wrote:

 Well now, doesn't it always help to read the instructions? I was following
 the 68mla wiki on floppy lubrication, but I had the little black plastic tab
 covering the tab on the top head, instead of under it.

 Now the drive seems to be working okay... wish I had a boot disk! Ah well,
 my floppy emu and sd software card is on its way!


 On Tuesday, 10 February 2015 16:28:28 UTC-5, Ronathan2001 wrote:

 I tried inserting a cleaning disk into my cleaned and re-lubriicated
 floppy drive, but the cleaning disk hits the top head (please see attached
 photos). Any ideas as to what I need to do to correct this?

 Thanks,

 Ron

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Re: Mac SE error messages when attempting to boot up

[Hardware Mack]

well those miniscribe hard drives can be fickle.
i would assume you are trying to boot from it, and not the floppy drive.

try booting from a floppy disk.
then wipe the HD, ( erase )

and reinstall your os onto it.

also it wouldn't hurt to pull your mainblard out,
clean the layer of filth off it,  pop out your ram, clean the ram sockets.
if you have (4) one meg simms laying around pop those in, do not forget about 
the Jumper or resistor depending on the rev of your mb. 256k / 1mb simms

or just pop the same ram back in, Either way pop your ram out , clean and pop 
it back in.

Bourns filters are a big problem with these ( SE / SE30 )
One of the best way you can tell if your Bourns filter has gone is
when you boot up your os from the HD/zip,  When you get to the desktop
it will keep asking you if you want to initialize the disk in the drive.
but there is no floppy disk in the drive!!! haha.

a temporary solution is to disconnect your floppy drive from the mainboard,
until you can get that filter changed out.

Charles

Sent from the office of MacCaps.com

2 ROETHEL DRIVE
SUITE F
NOVI, MICHIGAN 48375
UNITED STATES

Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812



On Feb 6, 2015, at 12:14 PM, Dylan McDermond wrote:

 
 On Feb 6, 2015, at 8:18 AM, 'Keith Jamison' via Vintage Macs 
 vintage-macs@googlegroups.com wrote:
 
 
 Can you tell us if your SE is original? That is, have the capacitors on the 
 Analog board and Digital (Logic) board ever been replaced?
 
 The SE used a couple of axial capacitors that don’t see too much leakage. 
 They are not like the SE/30 and late with lots of aluminum electrolytic caps. 
 Hardware Mac (Charles) can probably chime in here but I think more common 
 problems are the Bourns filters and/or a bad SWIM chip.
 
 - Dylan
 
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Re: Mac SE error messages when attempting to boot up

[Hardware Mack]

well those miniscribe hard drives can be fickle.
i would assume you are trying to boot from it, and not the floppy drive.

try booting from a floppy disk.
then wipe the HD, ( erase )

and reinstall your os onto it.

also it wouldn't hurt to pull your mainblard out,
clean the layer of filth off it,  pop out your ram, clean the ram sockets.
if you have (4) one meg simms laying around pop those in, do not forget about 
the Jumper or resistor depending on the rev of your mb. 256k / 1mb simms

or just pop the same ram back in, Either way pop your ram out , clean and pop 
it back in.

Bourns filters are a big problem with these ( SE / SE30 )
One of the best way you can tell if your Bourns filter has gone is
when you boot up your os from the HD/zip,  When you get to the desktop
it will keep asking you if you want to initialize the disk in the drive.
but there is no floppy disk in the drive!!! haha.

a temporary solution is to disconnect your floppy drive from the mainboard,
until you can get that filter changed out.

Charles

Sent from the office of MacCaps.com

MACCAPS.COM
2 ROETHEL DRIVE
SUITE F
NOVI, MICHIGAN 48375
UNITED STATES

Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812



On Feb 6, 2015, at 12:14 PM, Dylan McDermond wrote:

 
 On Feb 6, 2015, at 8:18 AM, 'Keith Jamison' via Vintage Macs 
 vintage-macs@googlegroups.com wrote:
 
 
 Can you tell us if your SE is original? That is, have the capacitors on the 
 Analog board and Digital (Logic) board ever been replaced?
 
 The SE used a couple of axial capacitors that don’t see too much leakage. 
 They are not like the SE/30 and late with lots of aluminum electrolytic caps. 
 Hardware Mac (Charles) can probably chime in here but I think more common 
 problems are the Bourns filters and/or a bad SWIM chip.
 
 - Dylan
 
 -- 
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Re: SE30 looking for a good home

[Hardware Mack]

i know of a young gentleman there in the UK
he is 17 years old just starting out.

he saved up his whole summers of lawn mowing just so he could do a run of hand 
made Terminated SCA to 50 pin adaptors
and offer then to the vintage mac community...

I know he has been looking for an se/30 for like 3 years.
ITs really the only vintage mac he has only ever wanted.

If Max sends you an email please consider him, he is an outstanding young lad.
( gave him your contact info )  

Charles
MacCaps.com



On Jan 11, 2015, at 12:09 PM, Dan wrote:

 Hi guys, thanx for the interest, it is indeed first come first served basis!  
 
  I have messaged Keith about possibility of paying postage etc, if that 
 doesn't work out then next on the list :-) 
 
 Dan, 
 
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Re: Horizontal line on screen

[Hardware Mack]

sounds like c15 has gone bad to me.

pretty common cap to go.

if you replace it with this, it will never go bad ::-)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECW-FD2W395K/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF5m%252btQWx%252bSdKfqDEEG59TPQ%3d


Charles
MacCaps.com


On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 3:18 PM, 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs 
vintage-macs@googlegroups.com wrote:

 you can simply remove a board, and touch each connection (on the bottom,
 solder side) with a hot iron. I fixed a power supply like that once.
  Will the operator be subject to discharge from a capacitor? Not if you
 avoid those altogether. Soldering iron handles are plastic anyway. You
 could also ground the iron w/a strap. Discharging caps and tubes is no big
 deal though. Just short each lead to ground through a suitable sized
 resistor (resistance and power). There will be numerous details on the
 around the net.

   --
  *From:* Dylan McDermond dy...@mcdermond.net
 *To:* vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Friday, November 7, 2014 6:56 PM
 *Subject:* Re: Horizontal line on screen


  On Oct 27, 2014, at 8:46 AM, fa...@gottick.com wrote:
 
  Have a SE FDHD that starts up fine but all i get on the screen is a
 bright horizontal line. About a milimeter wide. Any suggestions on this?

 You can try refreshing the solder on the yoke connector on the Analog
 board. A quick test would be to knock on the left side of the Mac. if the
 screen freaks out, just resolder those connections.

 There’s an outside chance it could be the chip at U2 on the analog board.
 If that’s the case, you’ll need to find a suitable replacement.

 Try refreshing the solder on the yoke connection first.

 - Dylan

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Re: Mac Classic M0420 - several issues - plus a paint question

[Hardware Mack]

hamstudy.org?



 KK6ISP

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Re: Mac Classic M0420 - several issues - plus a paint question

[Hardware Mack]

Ohhh hahah oops... i just looked you up and saw that you passed the Tech/Gen 
one month and then passed the extra the next.
and my first thought was hamstudy.org



Charles
MacCaps.com



On Oct 14, 2014, at 10:24 PM, Clark Martin wrote:

 Huh?
 
 KK6ISP
 Yet another designated driver on the information super highway.
 
 On Oct 14, 2014, at 7:18 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 hamstudy.org?
 
 
 
 KK6ISP
 
 
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Re: Mac Classic M0420 - several issues - plus a paint question

[Hardware Mack]

Yep, some guys take the extra 6 times before they pass it, after studying the 
books front to cover.
Some guys show up and guess, and it seems like they pass.

I'm Personally trying to figure all this out.

I studied for my Technician Passed
I did not study for my general, took it and missed it by one.
I studied for my general, took it again and passed.
Took the Extra the same night, and only got 32 right... i needed to get 35 
right.
the Examiner was pretty surprised how well i did for not studying at all for 
the extra.

I am going to use hamstudy.org for my extra, too many specifics to remember, in 
my normal life would never have any use knowing.
I have Gordon West's Extra Class book here. but i'm finding it really hard to 
keep my self awake while studying it.  -- maybe i am over worked?
:-)


Good job on your success though...  I have been told by other ham's  people 
that go and take all their tests in a row, most likely used hamstudy.org 
but then the old tymer extras still want to feel important,  With their CW 
proficiency. They had to walk 300 miles up hill bare foot, to the testing 
center.
had to sit in-front of a panel of FCC Officers, the written test was taken at 
gun point, after they demonstrated 50 WPM CW.




On Oct 14, 2014, at 11:21 PM, Clark Martin wrote:

 
 
 KK6ISP
 Yet another designated driver on the information super highway.
 
 On Oct 14, 2014, at 7:26 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Ohhh hahah oops... i just looked you up and saw that you passed the Tech/Gen 
 one month and then passed the extra the next.
 and my first thought was hamstudy.org
 
 
 I used the ARRL Technician exam book to study for the Tech Exam.  I passed 
 the General Exam without studying for it.  I studied for he Extra Exam by 
 using one of the only practice test sites and looking up stuff when I got 
 something wrong.
 
 When I went in for the Tech they said I could also test for General so I gave 
 it a whirl.  It kind of helped that I'm an EE.
 
 
 
 Charles
 MacCaps.com
 
 
 
 On Oct 14, 2014, at 10:24 PM, Clark Martin wrote:
 
 Huh?
 
 KK6ISP
 Yet another designated driver on the information super highway.
 
 On Oct 14, 2014, at 7:18 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 hamstudy.org?
 
 
 
 KK6ISP
 
 
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Re: LEM needs your help

[Hardware Mack]

Me too!  Thanks Dan.

Charles
MacCaps.com



On Jul 24, 2014, at 12:16 AM, bigclaim via Vintage Macs wrote:

 I gave you a donation
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Dan Knight, LowEndMac.com lowend...@gmail.com
 To: vintage-macs vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Wed, Jul 23, 2014 9:06 am
 Subject: LEM needs your help
 
 Monthly reminder: Low End Mac is a community-based resource. If we've helped 
 you, please help us pay our bills. Thanks! http://goo.gl/yqqsRr
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Re: Any value in Mac IIs, low-end Quadras or early PPCs?//50mhz accelerator

[Hardware Mack]

GEEZ what about all the machine ya got from me?

-- jeff
Life is short..
Life is what you make it.

Jeff G.
Heretic In Thoughts And Ideas

Hasn't done too much for you...
You need some action and some doing something.
Chop Chop.



On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 11:59 AM, Dylan McDermond dy...@mcdermond.net
wrote:


 On Jun 27, 2014, at 8:45 AM, 'J.S. Garrison' via Vintage Macs 
 vintage-macs@googlegroups.com wrote:

  But the time I spent 'refurbing' Old Macs in the 90s was very cathartic
 and therapeutic

 And I for one, thank you for it, Jeff. I have a machine or two in my
 collection that went through your refurbing hands well over a decade ago.

 - Dylan

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-- 
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Re: Dead Colour Classic..maybe

[Hardware Mack]

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Polymer-Capacitors/_/N-bjucq?P=1z0z7ymKeyword=10uf+25vFS=TrueNs=Pricing%7C0

25V is absolutely fine.


On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 4:18 PM, James Kelly jrkell...@gmail.com wrote:


 On Wednesday, 11 June 2014, 18:48, TT tam...@gmail.com wrote:

 Just an FYI. For the 47uF capacitors, I recently found a 16V version of
 polymer SMD aluminum can types that are more reasonably priced if you order
 more than 10. They don't have fluid inside them like the OEM version and
 are the same form-factor as the original, so they will fit the pads
 properly and look the same as the stock version. These type of capacitors
 are also supposed to be higher reliability with longer life ratings
 compared to the OEM type.


 TT, yes thanks for the link. I saw they carried the 47uf 16v and the
 100uf 6.3v, from Nichicon but not a 10uf 16v. ...oh well.

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Re: who sells powerbook G3s in mint condition with a warranty?

[Hardware Mack]

listen the best thing to do is this...
buy what you want, and maybe get 2.  -- one  for parts.
Vintage macs are a lot like owning vintage cars... you are going to have break 
downs, and lots of them...
unless your independent wealthy, you are going to need to learn how to make 
repairs your self.

Just like Vintage Mac Collections, and Not knowing how to solder do not really 
go well together.

But if you are independently wealthy ... or just very comfortable, and don't 
mind spending money.
you could pay me to fix your machines... in Michigan here not too far away.




Charles
MacCaps.com



On Apr 6, 2014, at 11:10 AM, moochachanyc wrote:

 thanks for all the information. i didn't ask a very well-informed question 
 but what i was wondering was what you stated -- are there any sources for 
 nearly new in the box older macs. after reading this thread i feel like i 
 might be better off just taking the one i have in for repair. it's probably 
 the video cable since the amount of horizontal rolling increases or decreases 
 when you open or close the monitor. that said, any rough idea what that would 
 cost at a place like tekserve (nyc mac repair shop)? 
 
 thanks so much for all of your answers.
 
 moo
 
 On Saturday, April 5, 2014 10:07:37 AM UTC-4, James Fraser wrote:
 
 Hello, 
 
  anyone? i'm looking for a laptop that runs system 9 and is in mint 
  condition. i bought a G3 from ebay and the video has rolling horizontal 
  lines thru it. any stores sell this kind of thing with a warranty? 
 
 Saying you've purchased a G3 Powerbook covers a lot of ground.  Can you 
 please fill us in on the particular model of G3 PowerBook you purchased? 
 
 (Also, unless what you bought was specifically sold as is, I assume you've 
 contacted the seller about getting a refund, yes?) 
 
 or is it just an ebay kinda thing at this point. 
 
 It's worth taking into account the fact that OS 9 was released more than a 
 decade ago (1999) and that OS X is currently on 10.9.X.  That being the case, 
 you won't find a computer store able to sell you a brand-new machine running 
 it natively. 
 
 As far as eBay goes, you'll occasionally come across people selling 
 seldom-used (or even new-in-box) tech toys.  However, I would think that a 
 new/nearly new OS 9-capable laptop would likely pit you against the Legions 
 of the Damned (sorry, I meant to say Apple collectors there), with their 
 irritating habit of bidding old Apple Computer-related items into the 
 stratosphere. :/ 
 
 Someone suggested the LEM Swap List earlier and, honestly, I think that would 
 likely be your best bet: 
 
 http://lowendmac.com/lists/swap.html 
 
 If a warranty is a must-have, please be sure to stipulate this in your 
 Want-To-Buy post.  However, I doubt if you're going to find anyone willing to 
 warranty what they sell for very long, seeing as how were talking about 
 decade-old laptops here. 
 
 Is this something you need for a one-off project (i.e. recovering old data), 
 or are you looking to run OS 9 over the long term?  If the latter, you're 
 going to need to learn how to maintain and repair your own machines as, given 
 their age, there's just no way around it. 
 
 You also might want to try asking this same question on the OS 9 list: 
 
 http://lowendmac.com/lists/macos9.html 
 
 ...as it's entirely possible that someone there might have something to offer 
 you. 
 
 
 HTH, 
 
 James Fraser 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: LC memory question

[Hardware Mack]

if you can get ahold of a laptop 2.5 scsi hd, and one of those 2.5 to 3.5
scsi adaptors,
you can have 2 floppies and internal hd :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CvgkJrH9Sc
( kinda like what this fellow did )
-- all though he went the extra mile and installed 2 scsi devices internally
:)






On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 8:07 PM, Wesley Furr wes...@megley.com wrote:

  Interesting...it covers the right-hand side drive bay?  Is it different
 than a left-hand cover flipped over?

 LC's were the Mac of choice when I was in later middle and high school.
 In one of the labs there was an odd LC up in front that had an external
 hard drive and dual internal floppies.  I'm hoping to do that with one of
 mine once I get the capacitors replaced...assuming it works when I get
 done!  Something cool about decked-out machines...  I'm thinking dual
 internal floppies, external hard drive, IIe card with dual 5.25
 drives...yeah, that should do it.  :-)

 Wesley


  --
 *From:* vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 vintage-macs@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *J.S. Garrison
 *Sent:* Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:33 PM

 *To:* vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* Re: LC memory question

  I got lucky enough to find a blanking bezel for one of my LCs that
 fitted into the slot the floppy disk drive went into for school Admins that
 didn't want the kids using them for destructive purposes.

 Jeff Garrison

   --
 *From:* Wesley Furr wes...@megley.com
 *To:* vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Sunday, March 23, 2014 5:57 AM
 *Subject:* RE: LC memory question

  Would be nice!  You always have to wonder about un-used spaces on boards
 like that.  I stumbled into that one researching capacitor replacements...
 The similar case I wondered about was what looked like a 2nd floppy header
 on the other side of the LCII...but then someone pointed out that it didn't
 have enough pins in the blank holes.  Oops!  Hadn't counted, but they were
 right.

 Wesley

  --
 *From:* vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 vintage-macs@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Keith Jamison
 *Sent:* Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:08 AM
 *To:* vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* Re: LC memory question

  Thanks, Wesley, that's exactly what I was looking for!

 It saves me the trouble of finding out that it doesn't work.

 Although there are different reasons for only populating half the pads,
 I'm leaning towards the claim that Apple originally planned for 256kB chips
 but swapped them to 512kB chips. It could be that the price dropped
 considerably on the 512kB and it was easy to reprogram the ROMs.

 Great link!

 Cheers,

 Keith
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 To 

Re: WTB: Nubus Ethernet 10/100 Card

[Hardware Mack]

contact trag from 68kmla... i am pretty sure he still has some.

Charles
MacCaps.com



On Mar 15, 2014, at 2:48 PM, TT wrote:

 Hello,
 
 I am looking for a Nubus 10/100 Ethernet card to run in my Mac IIci in 
 working condition.  As an alternative, I would be interested in a non-Asante 
 branded Nubus ethernet card with the standard RJ-45 jack connector.  If you 
 have one you are interested in selling, please contact me off-list.
 
 Thanks,
 TT
 
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Re: Mac SE error message on screen what does it mean?

[Hardware Mack]

looks to me like an issue with ram... or improperly seated ram.   what
jonathan said :)

try to pop that ram out.. and pop in some known 1meg sticks.


On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 3:44 PM, Tom Pirlet pirle...@gmail.com wrote:


 Guys,

 How can I fix this issue? I cannot find it anywhere on the interweb.





 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MfmE8H8OyxU/UyC47wHd1wI/JIE/SbiOSJtfVrk/s1600/2014-03-12+20.41.31.jpg


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Re: Re-Capper wanted

[Hardware Mack]

I'm out in michigan, .
And i am equipped to handle jobs that big.

You might not want to bog down a rookie with that kind of work.

Let me know.

Charles
MacCaps.com




On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 3:56 PM, rhoarcl...@aol.com wrote:

  Jaber needs a ReCapper near the Pacific Northwest ( Hopefully Seattle
 )...!

 Will have maybe 5 done...we have more than 30...REALLY !

 Jaber

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Re: Mac 512 Rom question

[Hardware Mack]

also i wanted to add this in there too... if your in a pinch, you could throw 
an 800k floppy drive in a 128k or 512k,  and it will work as long as you cut 
lines 9 and 20 on the floppy cable.

Charles
MacCaps.com



On Mar 7, 2014, at 1:28 PM, Jeff Walther wrote:

 
 
 On Thursday, March 6, 2014 9:34:01 PM UTC-6, James Fraser wrote:
 
 Hello, 
 
  The 800k drive reads and writes to two sides of an 800k floppy. To make a 
  400k 
  floppy, the option is to format then write to only one side of that disk. 
 
 Did 400k floppy disks work the same way that the old 5-1/4 floppy disks did 
 in the sense that both sides of the 400k disk were potentially 
 writable/readable, but only *one* side was inspected and quality-assured? 
 
 Yes.  There was a period there during which one could buy a box of 400K disks 
 at one price, or a box of identical 800K disks for a much higher price, but 
 the only difference was that the 800K disks had both sides guaranteed -- 
 whether they were actually inspected I can't say, but it seems unlikely based 
 on cost.
 
 One was generally much better off buying the 400K disks.  Occasionally you 
 got one in the box which would only work as a 400K disk, but for the savings 
 it was well worth it.
 
 Jeff Walther
  
 
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Re: Mac 512 Rom question

[Hardware Mack]

yes


Charles
MacCaps.com



On Mar 6, 2014, at 8:12 PM, Tom Frikker wrote:

 Good to know. Thanks guys! 
 Also, just curious: can a 512k board run with 128k ROMs?
 
 On Thursday, March 6, 2014 8:06:15 PM UTC-5, Mark Kronquist wrote:
 Used to do it every day. The 800K is just dual sided...
 
 400k reads fin in Apple and most other 800k drives and the Drive 3.5 but not 
 the UniDrive 3.5 as I recall
 On Mar 6, 2014, at 4:39 PM, Tom Frikker wrote:
 
 I've always been a little fuzzy on that... so reading from 400k disks on an 
 800k drive won't damage the disks?
 On Thursday, March 6, 2014 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, The Old Geek wrote:
 You know that that the 800k drives can read, format and copy to 400k disks, 
 right?
 
 
 
 Jeff Garrison
 
 From: Tom Frikker tom.f...@gmail.com
 To: vintag...@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, March 6, 2014 4:30 PM
 Subject: Re: Mac 512 Rom question
 
 To clarify: I need a Mac with at least 512k RAM that can support an internal 
 400k drive. I have two 128ks and several Pluses at my disposal, and would be 
 willing to buy a 512k board if needed.
 
 On Thursday, March 6, 2014 7:26:22 PM UTC-5, Tom Frikker wrote:
 Hello,
 I want to use a Mac 512k board with 512ke ROMs to run a 400k internal floppy 
 drive. Will this work, or can I replace the ROMs with 128k ones?
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Re: Dead SE/30

[Hardware Mack]

replace all the LV electrolytic caps. they appear bad.
All the caps on the HV caps are probably ok.
they can be bad + leaking and you would never know until you remove them.
they can be bad even if they are not leaking.




On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Keith Jamison
keithjamison...@yahoo.co.ukwrote:

 Hi Guys!

 Thanks for all the tips and things to look out for.

 I pulled the PSU and opened it on my bench. Under a magnifying lens, I
 visually checked the solder joints I made when I replaced the caps. I
 reflowed them to be certain. I also checked that the caps were correctly
 polarised.

 I reassembled it apart from the metal lid and there was only the slight
 hum of the supply when I turned it on.

 With my meter, I recorded the following voltages against what they should
 be and again after 5minutes. Then I adjusted RV251 (V ADJ) and checked
 again.

 V#  PinColourExpected   Recorded   After 5min  After Adjustment
 V1  #4 Orange+ 5V+ 5.56V + 5.39V+ 5.84V (Max)
 V2  #9 Orange+ 5V+ 5.56V + 5.39V+ 5.84V (Max)
 V3  #5 Yellow+12V+14.42V +10.91V+10.92V (Max)
 V4  #10Red   +12V+13.83V +10.31V+10.53V (Max)
 V5  #6 Green -12V- 8.81V  -8.11V- 8.85V (Max)

 (I hope the table lines up okay)

 By maxing out RV251, I heard the clicking sound again, more of a 4Hz or
 5Hz rapid cheep or chirrup.

 The noise is coming from the LV side rather than the HV Supply side. Seems
 to be coming more from the second heatsink with the medium and small
 transformers under it.

 So, in summary, the PSU fires up and gives wildly out of tolerance
 readings for 3-5 minutes, then settles down to lower readings. By adjusting
 RV251, the readings cannot be made to achieve their expected values. The
 green cable does not reach the -12V output state. All of this is
 accompanied by a characteristic 4-5Hz chirrup when RV251 is turned to the
 max.

 Where might we go from here, please?

 Cheers,

 Keith



   On Wednesday, 26 February 2014, 3:15, Doug McNutt 
 dougl...@macnauchtan.com wrote:
  At 18:39 -0800 2/25/14, Peter R wrote:
 Sounds like you might have a short somewhere after the harnesses.

 Yep.  Check the solder joints on the connectors that probably got
 unplugged during the work.

 I can't prove it but I really believe that the larger solder joints don't
 get quite hot enough during the wave soldering operation which has a bunch
 of much smaller connections to get right.


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Re: Dead SE/30

[Hardware Mack]

whoops, you did change the caps...

have you tried to unplug the hard drive?
also was there cap goo, when you removed the old caps in the psu?
you really have to get all that cap goo, it is a conductive fluid!.

you might want to check your solder job on the se/30 mainboard as well.
maybe you have a solder bridge some where... or a cap that was installed
backwards.

wash the mainboard... and maybe dump some IPA in the psu and then , blast
both the psu and the main-board off with the air compressor.



On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 5:10 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.comwrote:

 replace all the LV electrolytic caps. they appear bad.
 All the caps on the HV caps are probably ok.
 they can be bad + leaking and you would never know until you remove them.
 they can be bad even if they are not leaking.




 On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Keith Jamison 
 keithjamison...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

 Hi Guys!

 Thanks for all the tips and things to look out for.

 I pulled the PSU and opened it on my bench. Under a magnifying lens, I
 visually checked the solder joints I made when I replaced the caps. I
 reflowed them to be certain. I also checked that the caps were correctly
 polarised.

 I reassembled it apart from the metal lid and there was only the slight
 hum of the supply when I turned it on.

 With my meter, I recorded the following voltages against what they should
 be and again after 5minutes. Then I adjusted RV251 (V ADJ) and checked
 again.

 V#  PinColourExpected   Recorded   After 5min  After Adjustment
 V1  #4 Orange+ 5V+ 5.56V + 5.39V+ 5.84V (Max)
 V2  #9 Orange+ 5V+ 5.56V + 5.39V+ 5.84V (Max)
 V3  #5 Yellow+12V+14.42V +10.91V+10.92V (Max)
 V4  #10Red   +12V+13.83V +10.31V+10.53V (Max)
 V5  #6 Green -12V- 8.81V  -8.11V- 8.85V (Max)

 (I hope the table lines up okay)

 By maxing out RV251, I heard the clicking sound again, more of a 4Hz or
 5Hz rapid cheep or chirrup.

 The noise is coming from the LV side rather than the HV Supply side.
 Seems to be coming more from the second heatsink with the medium and small
 transformers under it.

 So, in summary, the PSU fires up and gives wildly out of tolerance
 readings for 3-5 minutes, then settles down to lower readings. By adjusting
 RV251, the readings cannot be made to achieve their expected values. The
 green cable does not reach the -12V output state. All of this is
 accompanied by a characteristic 4-5Hz chirrup when RV251 is turned to the
 max.

 Where might we go from here, please?

 Cheers,

 Keith



   On Wednesday, 26 February 2014, 3:15, Doug McNutt 
 dougl...@macnauchtan.com wrote:
  At 18:39 -0800 2/25/14, Peter R wrote:
 Sounds like you might have a short somewhere after the harnesses.

 Yep.  Check the solder joints on the connectors that probably got
 unplugged during the work.

 I can't prove it but I really believe that the larger solder joints don't
 get quite hot enough during the wave soldering operation which has a bunch
 of much smaller connections to get right.


 --
 --  The best programming tool is a soldering iron --


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Re: Dead SE/30

[Hardware Mack]

gotcha... well good job.

The only thing I can think of right now is maybe there is still a cap in the 
psu that was installed backwards.
or there is a solder bridge on the bottom side some where.


maybe check the 'optoisolator'  ?
http://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7t=22630#p223860





Charles
MacCaps.com



On Feb 27, 2014, at 6:28 PM, Keith Jamison wrote:

 Hi Charles, I've already recapped the PSU, Analog Board and Logic Board 
 electrolytics. Should I maybe recap the metal films? (C260, C267, C268, C272, 
 C273, C274, C280) I have ordered replacements for C151 and C158 on the HV 
 side.
 
 BTW, two metal films went bad on me in my Mac Plus (C36 and C37 - I replaced 
 C33 at the same time as C36). Two metal films also went bad (split tops) in 
 the Classic but I don't recall the exact component labels. They were white 
 and on the HV side.
 
 I replaced the caps on the SE/30 logic board first and everything worked 
 fine. Then I replaced the caps on the analog board and it still worked fine.
 
 Only after I recapped the PSU did the problem show up.
 
 The analog board (minus PSU) was given dishwasher treatment after a dose of 
 IPA. It was the difference between night and day. When I remove caps, I 
 remove all of the previous solder using a desoldering pump and then some 
 solder wick. Then the pads get a clean with IPA to remove excess flux resin. 
 After soldering the new component in place, I use a Q-Tip/cottonbud soaked in 
 IPA to remove excess flux resin again.
 
 None of the caps in the SE/30 appeared to have leaked but as a precaution I 
 used the IPA to remove any contamination.
 
 The method I use has so far worked on a Classic, a Classic II, an LC and a 
 Mac Plus.
 
 The Mac Plus did go awry but I replaced CR1, CR5, CR20, CR21 and Q2 based on 
 some internet searching, with the recommended new beefier components. Larry 
 Pina's Dead Mac Scrolls prompted me to change CR29 and the Plus is working 
 like a charm.
 
 Try as I might, I haven't found out about the SE/30 PSU - maybe because it's 
 SONY and discrete from Apple. I have most of the knowledge, I just need to 
 organise the time to trace it and build a schematic. I did all this at Uni 
 but that's like 22 years ago now - sheesh! 
 
 Anyway, I really appreciate all the help I'm getting, it helps to rule more 
 stuff out to narrow it down. It's 23.30 here so I'm going to hit the sack.
 
 Cheers,
 
 Keith
 
 
 
 On Thursday, 27 February 2014, 22:20, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 whoops, you did change the caps...
 
 have you tried to unplug the hard drive?
 also was there cap goo, when you removed the old caps in the psu?
 you really have to get all that cap goo, it is a conductive fluid!.
 
 you might want to check your solder job on the se/30 mainboard as well.
 maybe you have a solder bridge some where... or a cap that was installed 
 backwards.
 
 wash the mainboard... and maybe dump some IPA in the psu and then , blast 
 both the psu and the main-board off with the air compressor. 
 
 
 
 On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 5:10 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com wrote:
 replace all the LV electrolytic caps. they appear bad.
 All the caps on the HV caps are probably ok.
 they can be bad + leaking and you would never know until you remove them.
 they can be bad even if they are not leaking.
 
 
 
 
 On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Keith Jamison keithjamison...@yahoo.co.uk 
 wrote:
 Hi Guys!
 
 Thanks for all the tips and things to look out for.
 
 I pulled the PSU and opened it on my bench. Under a magnifying lens, I 
 visually checked the solder joints I made when I replaced the caps. I 
 reflowed them to be certain. I also checked that the caps were correctly 
 polarised.
 
 I reassembled it apart from the metal lid and there was only the slight hum 
 of the supply when I turned it on.
 
 With my meter, I recorded the following voltages against what they should be 
 and again after 5minutes. Then I adjusted RV251 (V ADJ) and checked again.
 
 V#  PinColourExpected   Recorded   After 5min  After Adjustment
 V1  #4 Orange+ 5V+ 5.56V + 5.39V+ 5.84V (Max)
 V2  #9 Orange+ 5V+ 5.56V + 5.39V+ 5.84V (Max)
 V3  #5 Yellow+12V+14.42V +10.91V+10.92V (Max)
 V4  #10Red   +12V+13.83V +10.31V+10.53V (Max)
 V5  #6 Green -12V- 8.81V  -8.11V- 8.85V (Max)
 
 (I hope the table lines up okay)
 
 By maxing out RV251, I heard the clicking sound again, more of a 4Hz or 5Hz 
 rapid cheep or chirrup.
 
 The noise is coming from the LV side rather than the HV Supply side. Seems to 
 be coming more from the second heatsink with the medium and small 
 transformers under it.
 
 So, in summary, the PSU fires up and gives wildly out of tolerance readings 
 for 3-5 minutes, then settles down to lower readings. By adjusting RV251, the 
 readings cannot be made to achieve their expected values. The green cable 
 does

Re: Newer Technologies MacClip Jr and DIP switch settings

[Hardware Mack]

i have one too... just looked at the manual and looks like 84mhz is the best 
that can do.

witch would be 42mhz... so if you got it to do 45 mhz... and you run norton 
utilitys and its accurate and stable then keep it that way.

if you have not recapped your 840av... then you need to re-cap that asap...


i used mine to go from 33mhz in my q800 to 40,
seemd to get kind hot.. so i popped a 40mhz cpu in there and it was much better.


 

Charles
MacCaps.com



On Feb 18, 2014, at 11:36 PM, Scott Holder wrote:

 Hey folks,
 
 Recently picked up a still-in-shrinkwrap MacClip Jr for my Quadra 840AV I've 
 been reviving. Basically it's a little clip that fits over the top of the 
 clock chip for easy overclocking, plus a better heat sink and fan for the 
 processor.
 
 The problem I'm running into is it seems to have come with the wrong manual. 
 The manual is for a MacClip/PowerClip, which has 8 dip switches, while this 
 is a MacClip Jr with 4 dip switches. I've spent a lot of time playing with it 
 and the settings in the manual don't seem to correspond to the frequency I 
 end up with at all. Some Googling led me to a page that said I should use the 
 four left switches in the manual, but that doesn't seem to be correct either.
 
 Does anyone have the correct manual for the MacClip Jr lying around and can 
 give me a picture of the frequencies page? I've managed to get it to 45mhz 
 through trial and error but I'd rather have the correct settings.
 
 Thanks!
 
 Scott
 
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Re: My Signed Mac 128k

[Hardware Mack]

i would only want signatures to match the ones that are on the inside.


Charles
MacCaps.com



On Feb 1, 2014, at 9:04 AM, Richard Darner wrote:

 FYI, Sculley had no affiliation with Apple Computer, Inc. back in those days 
 as he came later...
 
 Richard Darner
 A  D Land  Minerals, Inc.
 6001 W. Parmer Lane
 Suite 370-103
 Austin, Texas 78727
 (210) 837-2695
 rhdar...@yahoo.com
 
 
 On Feb 1, 2014, at 6:18 AM, William  Stillwell wkst...@franz-family.com 
 wrote:
 
 It is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.
  
 Without a COA for the signatures, or pictures of them signing it, the 
 signatures don't add much value L
  
 But still, a cool piece, and worth more than an unsigned one J
  
 Thanks for sharing!
  
  
 From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com] 
 On Behalf Of Tom Frikker
 Sent: Friday, January 31, 2014 10:29 PM
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 Subject: My Signed Mac 128k
  
 I thought I'd share my newest and most amazing Mac computer with the vintage 
 Mac forums.
  
 Last weekend, I went to the Macintosh 30th anniversary festival in 
 Cupertino, CA. I brought with me a Mac 128k back shell, hoping I could get a 
 few signatures from the original Mac team. I ended up getting around 25!
 I uploaded a picture here: http://imgur.com/tJtEk59
 The signatures are as follows:
 Bill Fernandez
 ?
 Donn Denman
 John Sculley
 Larry Kenyon
 Patti Kenyon (King)
 Matt Carter
 Bryan Stearns
 Rod Holt
  
 Mike Markkula
 Bob Belleville
 Chris Espinosa
 Steve Capps
 Bruce Horn
 Andy Hertzfeld
 Lynn Takahashi
 Bill Atkinson
 Caroline Rose
 Bob Martin
 Daniel Kottke
 Brian Berkeley
 Randy Wiggington
 Terry Oyama
 Gerald Manock
 D? P?
  
 Signatures in red worked on the original Mac, and their names are engraved 
 in the case.
 Signatures in green worked on the original Mac, but started working after 
 the molding was done (they are not in the case).
 Names in purple weren't in the case, but they were part of management 
 positions.
 Signatures in black I have either been unable to identify or I don't know 
 what their contribution was to the project. If anyone can help me out here, 
 that'd be great.
  
 This is a great part of my collection, and I doubt I'll be parting with it 
 any time soon. Does anyone have any idea of what this might be worth, 
 working, right now? I'm not planning on selling it, I just want to know out 
 of curiosity.
  
 Tom
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Re: 512k horizontal line on screen

[Hardware Mack]

yeah when he slides his plus main board in there it works fine, so its not the 
analog board..
Also when he turns up the brightness up, the line gets brighter.. there is 
nothing else on the crt other then the horizontal line on the tube.
done the VIDOUT signal pass through a transistor on the main board, i see that 
vidout does come from the BMU0 i'C


Charles
MacCaps.com



On Feb 1, 2014, at 6:32 PM, Tom Frikker wrote:

 I think your vertical sweep is broken. A possible fix is to resolder the 
 joints of connector P1. If this doesn't work, let me know and I'll keep 
 looking for clues.
 Tom
 
 On Saturday, February 1, 2014 6:21:04 PM UTC-5, jWs wrote:
 
 Have him turn up the brightness to see if it's scanning the full screen.
 
 If it's not, then the prob is still on the A/B board.
 
 - JS
 
 On 2/1/14 6:00 PM, Tom Frikker wrote:
 Hi Charles,
 It sounds to me like the component that stretches the video vertically has 
 failed, and therefore, it's just a horizontal line in the center of the 
 screen. Does this sound correct? I'm pretty sure that maybe electromagnets? 
 do the stretching, so maybe something that powers the vertical ones 
 failed. Sorry for the bad terminology, but this might be something to look 
 into.
 Tom
 
 On Saturday, February 1, 2014 5:10:06 PM UTC-5, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:
 I re-capped my buddys A/B, really all it needed was C1, pretty typical ...
 
 I changed those caps, sent it back,  didn't bother to test it because he 
 said it still sorta worked.
 
 Anyways. he got it back, and now when he flips it on,  hears the bong,  but 
 on the screen all he has is a horizontal line.
 I think it even boots from a disk too!
 
 Anyways i told him to try his plus main board, just to make sure something 
 funny didn't happen with the A/B i re-capped for him.
 and sure enough the plus main board works fine with the A/B ,  so the Issue 
 is not the A/B.
 
 He said that when he removed the A/B originally, to send it to me, He used 
 an alligator jumper and connected it to the screwdriver and the case, and 
 not to the ground lug at the top of the screen,
 said it made a pretty good pop too.
 They make sure to say, on most of those apple sites. connect to the ground 
 to the ground lug.
 
 
 So i my question is,  What do you think went out on his main board?
 he is probably going to send it to me to fix, I don't mind.. ill help em out.
 But just not sure where to start looking.
 
 let me know if you have any pointers.
 
 maybe i will get him to send you something out for helping me fix it :)
 
 Thanks
 Charles
 
 
 
 I am looking at the schematic here.
 either i am getting older or this one just looks blurry.
 http://www.digibarn.com/collections/diagrams/mac-512klogicboard/mac-logic-schematic.jpg
 
 
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Re: 512k horizontal line on screen

[Hardware Mack]

that may be!
there is that 15.667mhz oscillator on the main board.


hey what is in-between pin 1(VIDOUT) and VIDOUT on the BMU0,  seems like the 
commonly available schematic is just that one pager.


Charles
MacCaps.com



On Feb 1, 2014, at 9:09 PM, Doug McNutt wrote:

 At 15:51 -0800 2/1/14, Tom Frikker wrote:
 Interesting... if it's not the analog board, maybe it'd be some capacitor on 
 the main board or something? I have no clue...
 
 On Saturday, February 1, 2014 6:45:44 PM UTC-5, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:
 
 yeah when he slides his plus main board in there it works fine, so its not 
 the analog board..
 Also when he turns up the brightness up, the line gets brighter.. there is 
 nothing else on the crt other then the horizontal line on the tube.
 done the VIDOUT signal pass through a transistor on the main board, i see 
 that vidout does come from the BMU0 i'C
 
 
 There are software things that depend on an interrupt synchronized with the 
 vertical sweep.
 
 Is the clock for that generated on the mother board?  If not, is it possible 
 that a motherboard could short out a signal needed by the analog vertical 
 sweep circuitry?
 
 
 -- 
 
 -- From the U S of A, the only socialist country that refuses to admit it. 
 --
 
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Re: Mac 30th Anniversary//what to expect at Flint Center on 1/24/2014

[Hardware Mack]

( your signature )

if you were really hard core you would still be using pine :)


Charles
MacCaps.com



On Jan 11, 2014, at 12:11 AM, James Fraser wrote:

 
 Hello,
 
 THIS ISSUE IS WORTH A LOT IF YOU HAVE IT:
 
 For reasons I'm too tired to attempt to work out right now (it's been a long 
 week), the image under the above text won't load when I look at the html 
 version* of your message. 
 
 Can you please tell us what magazine (?) issue you refer to there and relieve 
 the suspense? :)
 
 
 Best,
 
 James Fraser
 
 *Call me daring or stupid (you choose) for viewing an email as anything other 
 than plaintext  in 2014. :-[
 
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Re: need serious help with imac g5

[Hardware Mack]

could be 2 things.

1. the gpu needs to be re-flowed
2. the radial caps on the main board have gone bad.

take the back off, and take a nice 2+ mp picture of the main board and send 
that to me. I could probably rule out caps.


PS:  lol, i guess peoples idea of what a vintage mac is changing.  if G5's 
are now considered vintage, then that must make 68k's Ancient relics :)
and that makes me a cave man :) uga uga :)

Charles
MacCaps.com



On Jan 1, 2014, at 10:08 AM, Dan wrote:

 At 9:58 PM -0800 12/31/2013, Ed Menting wrote:
 Im new to macs
 
 Welcome!
 
 i have a imac g5
 
 This list is for the vintage 68k Macs.  For your iMac G5, you should post in 
 our iMac list, or (better; the much larger) G3-5-List.
 
 , two weeks ago it started fine , no issues , today upon startup the screen 
 was pixelated and would not go past the apple logo i tried , safe boot, 
 resetting the pram, ran it in verbose mode it hangs on airport link down on 
 enl i have a picture of the screen where it starts and stops. Anyone know 
 of what this issue is, or how to fix it , i bought this from craigslist with 
 everything i needed pre installed so i have no recovery disks , i have a 
 copy of disk warrior that will not boot at all.
 
 Given the age of the machine, have you tried replacing the PRAM battery?
 
 What OS are you running?   ... check our LEM Swap list for OS DVDs.
 
 - Dan.
 -- 
 - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth.
 
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Re: Macintosh Portable - Failed HD and weak sound

[Hardware Mack]

if your portable has not been re-capped … it needs it asap regardless.
check your hd for leaked spindle oil.
those connors like to leak.
The hd might be a goner ether way. Running it with bad caps like how you are, 
is putting a unreasonable amount of stress.
are you using a charged battery to run it?
i hope so.



Charles
MacCaps.com



On Dec 23, 2013, at 8:51 AM, John-Robert La Porta wrote:

 Are you guys referring to the sound issue (which I figured) or the HD one? 
 Was your HD not being read due to a capacitor issue?
 
 On Monday, December 23, 2013 12:30:29 AM UTC-5, John Carmonne wrote:
 I had mine re capped for the same issue
 
 John Catmonne
 
 Sent from my Apple Lisa
 
 
 On Dec 22, 2013, at 9:12 PM, John-Robert La Porta johnrl...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Hey everyone,
 
 I am having a few issues with my non-backlit Portable. First, the hard drive 
 has stopped responding. It still starts up and spins up, but there is no 
 response as far as the machine is concerned. I can start the machine up by 
 either floppy or external SCSI hard drive. Not sure if it is something with 
 the internal SCSI jack, or the drive itself. An suggestions?
 
 Also, the sound on maximum is pitifully low...what would be the potential 
 cause of this?
 
 -John
 
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Re: Macintosh Portable - Failed HD and weak sound

[Hardware Mack]

if you get a minute, Check out this thread.
http://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10t=21500





On Mon, Dec 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM, John-Robert La Porta 
johnrlapo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Been running it with a PB 100 power adaptor. I'd like to run it with a new
 battery, but I'm not sure where to get cells...even if they can just fit in
 the battery compartment I'd be fine with that. I've got the original AC
 adaptor so it wouldn't be a problem.

 As for the HD, no leakage or nastiness, no clicks of death, it spins up
 fine. The machine simply does not see anything there on the bus.

 I'd like to replace the capacitors, does anyone have a guide as to how to
 do so on the portable?

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Re: Macintosh Portable - Failed HD and weak sound

[Hardware Mack]

you can find some info to help you re-cap that at my website
maccaps.com  -   also i can do it for you, if ya wanted to go the
professional route.



On Mon, Dec 23, 2013 at 2:05 PM, John-Robert La Porta 
johnrlapo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks for the info. I must have turned it on less than 10 times over 6+
 years with the PB 100 adaptor, so hopefully there isn't too much damage.
 Now to find a decent battery and capacitor replacement guide...

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Re: Macintosh Portable - Failed HD and weak sound

[Hardware Mack]

thanks.

i don't have any schematics for the macII yet.
apparently hap knows of an x apple engineer, and has a boat load of schematics.
as soon as i get them ill post em up.

ok and for caps... Yeah I haven't made any diagrams for Mac II - x -fx yet, I 
need to.


and i am sure in the next 2-5 years all the ppc macs are going to need caps 
too. 
the SMT 16v 47uf caps on my 6100 are already bulging at the top, no leaks yet :)


Charles
MacCaps.com



On Dec 23, 2013, at 5:49 PM, John-Robert La Porta wrote:

 Charles,
 
 Very impressive! I think I will make a go of it myself, and contact you if 
 things don't work all that well. By the way, I was checking the site for 
 diagrams for a Mac II, and I can't seem to find it. I wanted to know if you 
 had one (I need to work on that, too). Thanks again.
 
 -John
 
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Re: Macintosh Portable - Failed HD and weak sound

[Hardware Mack]

sounds like your ready for some cap's sir.

Charles
MacCaps.com




On Dec 23, 2013, at 12:12 AM, John-Robert La Porta wrote:

 Hey everyone,
 
 I am having a few issues with my non-backlit Portable. First, the hard drive 
 has stopped responding. It still starts up and spins up, but there is no 
 response as far as the machine is concerned. I can start the machine up by 
 either floppy or external SCSI hard drive. Not sure if it is something with 
 the internal SCSI jack, or the drive itself. An suggestions?
 
 Also, the sound on maximum is pitifully low...what would be the potential 
 cause of this?
 
 -John
 
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Re: Macintosh II - Dead after storage

[Hardware Mack]

I do like the CR2032 idea!!
you can buy those batteries in these little tea lights at the dollar tree for 
99cents ea.



Charles
MacCaps.com



On Dec 19, 2013, at 2:20 AM, Kevin wrote:

 CR2032

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Re: 400k Floppy Drive Pads

[Hardware Mack]

Were the drives in a machine? or just sitting out in a box…
Seems like this happens a lot. When end up working on them,  I always find 
the little buggers… they are inside the case… some where … or stuck in the 
drive some where…
Ya gotta spend some time and look for em.

I always put a little dap of goop on them and pop em back into place.

i have no idea where you would go to buy replacments.

Charles
MacCaps.com



On Dec 14, 2013, at 7:02 PM, Tom Frikker wrote:

 Does anyone know where I can buy 1 or 2 of the pads for the 400k drives (Mac 
 128k)? Mine both seem to be missing them and I have no idea where to get a 
 replacement. Or is there any way I can fashion a replacement?
 
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Re: Macintosh II - Dead after storage

[Hardware Mack]

check the voltage of your 2 pram batteries… you need 3.6 at those
batteries… one of them is used just to kick on the psu.

and yes its going to need a cap job soon.


On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 1:57 PM, John-Robert La Porta 
johnrlapo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey everyone,

 Went to get an image of the ROM of my Mac II, and it's been in my parent's
 closet of 10+ years. When I hook it up, not a thing will happen: nothing
 turns on. I know that it has a soft power switch and all, but i tried the
 keyboard with another mac and everything worked properly. Since it is a
 soft switch that works through the motherboard, I am not sure if the issue
 is with the power supply or the board itself. I've seen a lot of people
 talk about capacitor replacement here, not sure if that would have anything
 to do with this. I did check the two fuzes in the power supply, and they
 also appear intact. Any suggestions?

 As a note, the last time I used it, I noticed that the sound output was
 very low, leading me to believe that it may be a capacitor issue.

 -John

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Re: Macintosh II - Dead after storage

[Hardware Mack]

yeah you could clip them off right at the battery, and solder the old leads
to the new battery's

scavenge some battery holders from some dead mac boards, or maybe that is
just me with a pile like that lol.

mcdermd buys new holders from some place maybe he wants to share where he
gets them and how much  :O)


On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 3:53 PM, John-Robert La Porta 
johnrlapo...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'll check the voltage, the unfortunate thing is that mine has two
 soldered-in batteries. I've never taken out anything like that...would I
 unsolder from the battery terminals themselves, or from the board? Come to
 think of it, can I really check the voltage with the thing soldered in
 there?

 -John

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Re: Mac Plus repair and checkerboard screen problem

[Hardware Mack]

i agree, i hate working on dishwasher boards. - i can always tell with one look.
nothing annoys me more.

i mean if they took it right from the dish waster, ( NO DRY CYCLE )
and blasted it off with the air compressor… might be ok?

Plus the pads get squrley with the dishwasher boards aswell. 

When they let them sit wet for days….  and don't think to blast them off with 
the air compressor.
The moisture wicks under the pads and weaken the pad adhesive.

warm water + tooth brush a little TLC,  then a good rinse, followed up buy a 
really good hit with the compresor blow gun.
This way is going to get them the most clean anyways. the light mechanical 
scrubbing with the tooth brush always does the trick.

Charles
MacCaps.com



On Dec 6, 2013, at 11:50 AM, Dylan McDermond wrote:

 
 On Dec 6, 2013, at 8:32 AM, Tom Frikker tom.frik...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 At this point I think I'm ready to attempt a dishwasher cleaning of the 
 motherboard. Can you also clean the analog board in this fashion, or just 
 the motherboard?
 
 I know I’ll get some flak from some people who swear by the dishwasher but I 
 can’t stand getting a board to recap and it’s been through the one. You can 
 always tell those boards because you have to clean all the white corrosion 
 and deposits off of anything soldered down and out from under the chips. It’s 
 tedious. I prefer to use warm water and a toothbrush in a shallow, plastic 
 tub followed by a good blasting with compressed air to dry. Even then, it can 
 take a little time with the cotton swabs and alcohol to get it all.
 
 Carry on,
 
 - Dylan
 
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Re: Getting files off of a Quadra 700

[Hardware Mack]

lol nice edit job on your video…

anyways.
I suggest just FTPing the files over… that works much better.

just  Share or Setup FTP on your OSX or what ever box , go to the vintage mac 
with ethernet connected up.
type in the ftp server ip and drag and drop with transmit or something of the 
like.
main.system7today.com

** make sure you either have a static IP set or make sure your vintage mac is 
getting an ip from your DHCP server


Charles
MacCaps.com



On Dec 5, 2013, at 1:43 AM, Eleni Varveri wrote:

 Use OS X 10.3 on Mac mini, see this video   
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHCzykwpzZ0
 
 
 On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 12:39 PM, Quadet pegrid...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm trying to copy some files off of my old Quadra 700 to a Mac Mini and am 
 stuck. I have the Quadra running System 7.1 and MacTCP 2.0.5. It has an 
 AAUI-to-Ethernet transceiver connected to a crossover Ethernet cable that's 
 connected at the other end to my Mini. It also has a working CD-ROM drive.
 
 I read the networking guide at applefool.com/se30 and did my best to follow 
 its instructions. I played around with the Control Panel / Network, MacTCP, 
 File Sharing, etc. and thought I had succeeded in sharing the Quadra's 
 hard-drive but my Mini sees nothing. But I don't really know what I'm doing 
 and, to be specific, I don't know what to do on Mac Mini side other than 
 stare at a Finder window and hope a server icon magically appears. On the 
 Mini I tried pinging the IP address that I had specified in MacTCP on the 
 Quadra and it timed out.
 
 This has probably been done a hundred times so if someons could point me to 
 the right website page I would be immensely grateful. 
 
 THANKS!
 
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Re: Mac Plus repair and checkerboard screen problem

[Hardware Mack]

solder the resistor?


On Mon, Dec 2, 2013 at 4:54 PM, Tom Frikker tom.frik...@gmail.com wrote:

 I considered trying the RAM from the other board, but since this model's a
 4 MB configuration and the other one is a 1 MB, it wouldn't work (the
 resistor's cut).

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Re: Mac Plus repair and checkerboard screen problem

[Hardware Mack]

unless you have some other simms laying around?

notice trag went right for cleaning the ram slots.

next is verify the ram its self :)





On Mon, Dec 2, 2013 at 5:07 PM, Tom Frikker tom.frik...@gmail.com wrote:

 I was gonna do that as a last resort if I couldn't get the 4 MB
 configuration working, but I'll probably have to do that, yeah.


 On Monday, December 2, 2013 4:55:55 PM UTC-5, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:

 solder the resistor?


 On Mon, Dec 2, 2013 at 4:54 PM, Tom Frikker tom.f...@gmail.com wrote:

 I considered trying the RAM from the other board, but since this model's
 a 4 MB configuration and the other one is a 1 MB, it wouldn't work (the
 resistor's cut).

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Re: Getting files off of a Quadra 700

[Hardware Mack]

just ftp the files back and forth.

start a ftp server on the mini
then log into it with transmit for mac or something.

i know that works good because i do it all the time.


On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 5:41 PM, Quadet pegrid...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks for all the advice! I'm not sure I understand all of what everyone
 said but this gives me a couple of ideas to pursue. I'm sure I'll be back
 with more questions.

 It sounds like the odds are low of getting it to work straight away with a
 crossover cable but it won't take much time to trying a local IP address
 and looking at the transceiver's status lights - so that's what I'll start
 with. If that fails then I suppose I'll try to find a small hub to avoid
 using a crossover cable and then try 7.5.3.

 By the way, am I overlooking an easier alternative for getting the files
 off of the Quadra? There's no gadget that makes a thumb drive recognizable
 to the Quadra, is there?

 Thanks!


 On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 6:05:32 PM UTC-5, Clark Martin wrote:


 On Nov 12, 2013, at 12:39 PM, Quadet wrote:

 I'm trying to copy some files off of my old Quadra 700 to a Mac Mini and
 am stuck. I have the Quadra running System 7.1 and MacTCP 2.0.5. It has an
 AAUI-to-Ethernet transceiver connected to a crossover Ethernet cable that's
 connected at the other end to my Mini. It also has a working CD-ROM drive.

 I read the networking guide at applefool.com/se30 and did my best to
 follow its instructions. I played around with the Control Panel / Network,
 MacTCP, File Sharing, etc. and thought I had succeeded in sharing the
 Quadra's hard-drive but my Mini sees nothing. But I don't really know what
 I'm doing and, to be specific, I don't know what to do on Mac Mini side
 other than stare at a Finder window and hope a server icon magically
 appears. On the Mini I tried pinging the IP address that I had specified in
 MacTCP on the Quadra and it timed out.

 This has probably been done a hundred times so if someons could point me
 to the right website page I would be immensely grateful.


 Accessing your Quadra (server) from the Mini (client) will be difficult
 to impossible.  OS 7.1 doesn't support AppleShare over IP.  Newer versions
 of Mac OS X don't support using AppleShare over AppleTalk and there are
 problems with the version that do support it, particularly with older
 versions of Personal File Sharing such as on System 7.1.

 OS 7.1 doesn't support AppleShare over IP as a client.

 If you can upgrade the OS to 7.5.3 then you can install an AppleShare
 over IP client.

 You could use an intermediate computer to accomplish the transfer.

 You could setup the Mini to serve FTP then run Anarchie or Fetch on the
 Quadra to upload the files.

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Re: SE30 SCSI Repair Questions

[Hardware Mack]

good job man!


On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 11:47 AM, Scott Lawrence yor...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes.  The pics helped completely!

 -s


 On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 12:50:30 AM UTC-5, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:

 did that picture i sent you help at all?


 Charles
 MacCaps.com



 On Nov 12, 2013, at 12:49 AM, Scott Lawrence wrote:

 Okay.  For the heck of it, I re-buzzed these two traces, and
 lo-and-behold... the SCSI DMA line was not connected to the GLUE chip.  One
 wire-wrap-wire soldered into place, and Bammo... it booted from the SCSI
 drive!  HUZZAH!

 Now, it seems to have power glitches, so I suppose I need to recap the
 analog/power board too. heh.

 Thanks to all of you again for helping me track this down, and to get
 reacquainted with an old friend!

 -s

 On Saturday, November 9, 2013 9:50:07 AM UTC-5, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:

 check continuity between these 2 traces
 if you don't get any, then run patch wires as seen here.
 and then your scsi will probably work.

 http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5438mode=view
 http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5439mode=view
 http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5440mode=view

 SE/30 has issues with leaking cap goo, causing via and trace rot.
 so i would check lines going too the scsi chip before you assume its the
 scsi I/C is bad.

 SE30 
 Schematics.ziphttp://maccaps.com/MacCAPS.COM/Schematics_Bonus_Info_files/SE30%20Schematics.zip



 Charles
 MacCaps.com



 On Nov 9, 2013, at 8:10 AM, J.S. Garrison wrote:

 That's why I mentioned going with either another, newer Mac that takes a
 SCSI drive, or the Pentium II or III PC with the advantage of being able to
 use the bootable CD of MHDD and the Adaptec SCSI (50 pin) Card. I have also
 used an external SCSI CD ROM case, plugging in the hard drive in place of
 the CD ROM.

 Once  you've acertained that the physical parts are not damaged, (SCSI
 cable, motherboard socket pins, hard drive pins, seeing that terminators
 (hard drive, not external drive case/internal motherboard) are present,
 what you're left with is the software problem with the hard drive's
 formatting.

 I don't trust, so I don't depend on, Apple's Drive Setup. I do trust
 Silverlining for it's seldom-fail drive prep ability. Lido 7.5.6 too. MHDD
 in a PC too because it, with the right Adaptec card, will positively find
 and prep a drive, unless it's controller card
 is fried or the jumpers are wrongly set or missing.

 Most hard drive makers, or third party collectors/repair people will
 have settings info online. Google is your friend there.

 Yes, I'm advocating the purchase of a second, newer Mac or the P2/P3 PC
 and Adaptec Card. Mac Collecting can be a
 costly hobby. But without the right tools you get more dead ends and
 frustration than you need to in diagnosing a problem
 that keeps your Mac from, in your case, seeing the hard drive.

 And maybe there IS a problem with the SCSI chip on the motherboard. But
 when I did a lot of refurbising, this was never the case.

 Jeff


   --
  *From:* Scott Lawrence yor...@gmail.com
 *To:* vintag...@googlegroups.com
 *Cc:* J.S. Garrison garri...@yahoo.com
 *Sent:* Friday, November 8, 2013 8:21 PM
 *Subject:* Re: SE30 SCSI Repair Questions

 Well, like I said, I know the drive, scsi cable, power supply are all
 good, since I have my SE board in that case right now, running System 7.1
 off of a 340 meg hard disk.  (Which I installed using that SE/30 before it
 failed.)

 I'd love to try out those formatting tools, but I can't get the machine
 to see any device on the SCSI chain.  HDSC setup and the hacked version of
 HDSC setup both claim that the scsi chain is not terminated.

 It's not that the drive isn't formatted, it's got a working install of
 OS 7.1.  It's just not visible with the SE/30 board.

 -s

 On Friday, November 8, 2013 10:08:36 PM UTC-5, The Old Geek wrote:

 ccee
 The method I used is, with a known-working internal and external floppy
 drive, is boot a system 6.0.8. disk find and use the Micromat system 6
 removable and internal disk utility.

 Another, easier to find utility is the usually fail-proof La
 CieSilverlining which I will use in a bootable System 7.5 environment. If
 that drive is mountable, the La Cie utility will indoctrinate it to a
 mounted condition.

 Many folks don't like Silverlining because of the problems it manifested
 in System 7. But it, along with Lido 7.5.6, which wants system 7.1 to OS8.x
 to work, almost always, for me anyway, made a rogue hard disk appear on the
 desktop.

 I want to be absolutely sure that the hard drive isn't bad so I look at
 the SCSI cable, motherboard connector and drive connector conditions (i.e
 bent or missing pins), and potentially missing terminators on the hard
 drive's controller board. I look at drive-controller jumpers and use Google
 to see if these are set correctly (from the maufacturer's site or other
 trusted sites).

 To foolproof my testing, I will 

Re: SE30 SCSI Repair Questions

[Hardware Mack]

did that picture i sent you help at all?


Charles
MacCaps.com



On Nov 12, 2013, at 12:49 AM, Scott Lawrence wrote:

 Okay.  For the heck of it, I re-buzzed these two traces, and lo-and-behold... 
 the SCSI DMA line was not connected to the GLUE chip.  One wire-wrap-wire 
 soldered into place, and Bammo... it booted from the SCSI drive!  HUZZAH!
 
 Now, it seems to have power glitches, so I suppose I need to recap the 
 analog/power board too. heh.
 
 Thanks to all of you again for helping me track this down, and to get 
 reacquainted with an old friend!
 
 -s
 
 On Saturday, November 9, 2013 9:50:07 AM UTC-5, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:
 check continuity between these 2 traces
 if you don't get any, then run patch wires as seen here.
 and then your scsi will probably work.
 
 http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5438mode=view
 http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5439mode=view
 http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5440mode=view
 
 SE/30 has issues with leaking cap goo, causing via and trace rot.
 so i would check lines going too the scsi chip before you assume its the 
 scsi I/C is bad.
 
 SE30 Schematics.zip
 
 
 
 Charles
 MacCaps.com
 
 
 
 On Nov 9, 2013, at 8:10 AM, J.S. Garrison wrote:
 
 That's why I mentioned going with either another, newer Mac that takes a 
 SCSI drive, or the Pentium II or III PC with the advantage of being able to 
 use the bootable CD of MHDD and the Adaptec SCSI (50 pin) Card. I have also 
 used an external SCSI CD ROM case, plugging in the hard drive in place of 
 the CD ROM.
 
 Once  you've acertained that the physical parts are not damaged, (SCSI 
 cable, motherboard socket pins, hard drive pins, seeing that terminators 
 (hard drive, not external drive case/internal motherboard) are present, what 
 you're left with is the software problem with the hard drive's formatting.
 
 I don't trust, so I don't depend on, Apple's Drive Setup. I do trust 
 Silverlining for it's seldom-fail drive prep ability. Lido 7.5.6 too. MHDD 
 in a PC too because it, with the right Adaptec card, will positively find 
 and prep a drive, unless it's controller card
 is fried or the jumpers are wrongly set or missing.
 
 Most hard drive makers, or third party collectors/repair people will have 
 settings info online. Google is your friend there.
 
 Yes, I'm advocating the purchase of a second, newer Mac or the P2/P3 PC and 
 Adaptec Card. Mac Collecting can be a
 costly hobby. But without the right tools you get more dead ends and 
 frustration than you need to in diagnosing a problem
 that keeps your Mac from, in your case, seeing the hard drive.
 
 And maybe there IS a problem with the SCSI chip on the motherboard. But when 
 I did a lot of refurbising, this was never the case.
 
 Jeff
  
 
 From: Scott Lawrence yor...@gmail.com
 To: vintag...@googlegroups.com 
 Cc: J.S. Garrison garri...@yahoo.com 
 Sent: Friday, November 8, 2013 8:21 PM
 Subject: Re: SE30 SCSI Repair Questions
 
 Well, like I said, I know the drive, scsi cable, power supply are all good, 
 since I have my SE board in that case right now, running System 7.1 off of a 
 340 meg hard disk.  (Which I installed using that SE/30 before it failed.)
 
 I'd love to try out those formatting tools, but I can't get the machine to 
 see any device on the SCSI chain.  HDSC setup and the hacked version of HDSC 
 setup both claim that the scsi chain is not terminated.  
 
 It's not that the drive isn't formatted, it's got a working install of OS 
 7.1.  It's just not visible with the SE/30 board.
 
 -s
 
 On Friday, November 8, 2013 10:08:36 PM UTC-5, The Old Geek wrote:
 ccee
 The method I used is, with a known-working internal and external floppy 
 drive, is boot a system 6.0.8. disk find and use the Micromat system 6 
 removable and internal disk utility. 
 
 Another, easier to find utility is the usually fail-proof La CieSilverlining 
 which I will use in a bootable System 7.5 environment. If that drive is 
 mountable, the La Cie utility will indoctrinate it to a mounted condition.
 
 Many folks don't like Silverlining because of the problems it manifested in 
 System 7. But it, along with Lido 7.5.6, which wants system 7.1 to OS8.x to 
 work, almost always, for me anyway, made a rogue hard disk appear on the 
 desktop.
 
 I want to be absolutely sure that the hard drive isn't bad so I look at the 
 SCSI cable, motherboard connector and drive connector conditions (i.e bent 
 or missing pins), and potentially missing terminators on the hard drive's 
 controller board. I look at drive-controller jumpers and use Google to see 
 if these are set correctly (from the maufacturer's site or other trusted 
 sites).
 
 To foolproof my testing, I will connect the drive to an Adaptec SCSI Card in 
 a Pentium II or III PC and run MHDD, which is a bootable Linux-based CD that 
 checks sectors for condition, and can repair damaged sectors software-wise, 
 AND format the drive with MHDD.
 
 This opens the door for the La 

Re: SE30 SCSI Repair Questions

[Hardware Mack]

check continuity between these 2 traces
if you don't get any, then run patch wires as seen here.
and then your scsi will probably work.

http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5438mode=view
http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5439mode=view
http://68kmla.org/forums/download/file.php?id=5440mode=view

SE/30 has issues with leaking cap goo, causing via and trace rot.
so i would check lines going too the scsi chip before you assume its the 
scsi I/C is bad.

SE30 Schematics.zip



Charles
MacCaps.com



On Nov 9, 2013, at 8:10 AM, J.S. Garrison wrote:

 That's why I mentioned going with either another, newer Mac that takes a SCSI 
 drive, or the Pentium II or III PC with the advantage of being able to use 
 the bootable CD of MHDD and the Adaptec SCSI (50 pin) Card. I have also used 
 an external SCSI CD ROM case, plugging in the hard drive in place of the CD 
 ROM.
 
 Once  you've acertained that the physical parts are not damaged, (SCSI cable, 
 motherboard socket pins, hard drive pins, seeing that terminators (hard 
 drive, not external drive case/internal motherboard) are present, what you're 
 left with is the software problem with the hard drive's formatting.
 
 I don't trust, so I don't depend on, Apple's Drive Setup. I do trust 
 Silverlining for it's seldom-fail drive prep ability. Lido 7.5.6 too. MHDD in 
 a PC too because it, with the right Adaptec card, will positively find and 
 prep a drive, unless it's controller card
 is fried or the jumpers are wrongly set or missing.
 
 Most hard drive makers, or third party collectors/repair people will have 
 settings info online. Google is your friend there.
 
 Yes, I'm advocating the purchase of a second, newer Mac or the P2/P3 PC and 
 Adaptec Card. Mac Collecting can be a
 costly hobby. But without the right tools you get more dead ends and 
 frustration than you need to in diagnosing a problem
 that keeps your Mac from, in your case, seeing the hard drive.
 
 And maybe there IS a problem with the SCSI chip on the motherboard. But when 
 I did a lot of refurbising, this was never the case.
 
 Jeff
  
 
 From: Scott Lawrence yor...@gmail.com
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
 Cc: J.S. Garrison garriso...@yahoo.com 
 Sent: Friday, November 8, 2013 8:21 PM
 Subject: Re: SE30 SCSI Repair Questions
 
 Well, like I said, I know the drive, scsi cable, power supply are all good, 
 since I have my SE board in that case right now, running System 7.1 off of a 
 340 meg hard disk.  (Which I installed using that SE/30 before it failed.)
 
 I'd love to try out those formatting tools, but I can't get the machine to 
 see any device on the SCSI chain.  HDSC setup and the hacked version of HDSC 
 setup both claim that the scsi chain is not terminated.  
 
 It's not that the drive isn't formatted, it's got a working install of OS 
 7.1.  It's just not visible with the SE/30 board.
 
 -s
 
 On Friday, November 8, 2013 10:08:36 PM UTC-5, The Old Geek wrote:
 ccee
 The method I used is, with a known-working internal and external floppy 
 drive, is boot a system 6.0.8. disk find and use the Micromat system 6 
 removable and internal disk utility. 
 
 Another, easier to find utility is the usually fail-proof La CieSilverlining 
 which I will use in a bootable System 7.5 environment. If that drive is 
 mountable, the La Cie utility will indoctrinate it to a mounted condition.
 
 Many folks don't like Silverlining because of the problems it manifested in 
 System 7. But it, along with Lido 7.5.6, which wants system 7.1 to OS8.x to 
 work, almost always, for me anyway, made a rogue hard disk appear on the 
 desktop.
 
 I want to be absolutely sure that the hard drive isn't bad so I look at the 
 SCSI cable, motherboard connector and drive connector conditions (i.e bent or 
 missing pins), and potentially missing terminators on the hard drive's 
 controller board. I look at drive-controller jumpers and use Google to see if 
 these are set correctly (from the maufacturer's site or other trusted sites).
 
 To foolproof my testing, I will connect the drive to an Adaptec SCSI Card in 
 a Pentium II or III PC and run MHDD, which is a bootable Linux-based CD that 
 checks sectors for condition, and can repair damaged sectors software-wise, 
 AND format the drive with MHDD.
 
 This opens the door for the La CieSilverlining to take charge and make a 
 working drive Mac-accessible, IF it's not toast.
 
 Jeff
   
 
 
 From: Scott Lawrence yor...@gmail.com
 To: vintag...@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, November 8, 2013 4:27 PM
 Subject: Re: SE30 SCSI Repair Questions
 
 Yes. The drive is running. It does it's startup seek, same as if it were 
 unplugged or when it was plugged into the SE motherboard. It takes it a few 
 moments then it shows the ? Mac icon.
 
 
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Re: Local Talk connection

[Hardware Mack]

sounds like you are ready for some new caps on that main board sir.

also give the rear vent a good sniff… if it smells like fishy,  then your AB 
needs caps as well.

Charles




On Oct 24, 2013, at 1:46 PM, Marek Drvota wrote:

 It seems like something's wrong with my Color Mac.
 
 Not only the connection doesn't work but to start it I always need to remove 
 the logic board and then put it back - any ideas here ?
 
 I definitely don't want to throw it in the bin just trying to find out how to 
 have (as I can't do anything myself) it fixed
 
 CHeers
 
 M
 On Sep 24, 2013, at 12:46 AM, Jeff Walther t...@prismnet.com wrote:
 
 
 
 On Monday, September 23, 2013 2:31:15 PM UTC-5, Marek Drvota wrote:
 
 Am I doing something wrong or skipped I some steps ? 
 
 
 If you're using PhoneNet cabling, check the telephone cable between the 
 PhoneNet connectors.   Make sure it has the yellow and black wires and not 
 just the red and green wires.   There were an awful lot of really cheap 6' 
 lengths of telephone cord shipped with modems which omitted the yellow and 
 black conductors to save than 1/2 cent in manufacturing costs.
 
 Jeff Walther
  
 
 
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Re: Local Talk connection

[Hardware Mack]

its not really that strange. The same things happen to LC520/LC550/LC575's when 
the AB and MB caps go…
i re-cap these all the time.

Charles
maccaps.com

If you wanted me to do it i can, or you could do it your self.


PS:
I would assume you have checked the voltage of your PRAM battery?
you always want to make sure your PRAM battery is charged to 3.6v.



On Oct 24, 2013, at 1:53 PM, Marek Drvota wrote:

 Could be the case - it's quite strange as visually there's nothing out of 
 order 
 
 Once it's up and running everything's just fine
 
 M
 
 On Oct 24, 2013, at 7:50 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 sounds like you are ready for some new caps on that main board sir.
 
 also give the rear vent a good sniff… if it smells like fishy,  then your AB 
 needs caps as well.
 
 Charles
 
 
 
 
 On Oct 24, 2013, at 1:46 PM, Marek Drvota wrote:
 
 It seems like something's wrong with my Color Mac.
 
 Not only the connection doesn't work but to start it I always need to 
 remove the logic board and then put it back - any ideas here ?
 
 I definitely don't want to throw it in the bin just trying to find out how 
 to have (as I can't do anything myself) it fixed
 
 CHeers
 
 M
 On Sep 24, 2013, at 12:46 AM, Jeff Walther t...@prismnet.com wrote:
 
 
 
 On Monday, September 23, 2013 2:31:15 PM UTC-5, Marek Drvota wrote:
 
 Am I doing something wrong or skipped I some steps ? 
 
 
 If you're using PhoneNet cabling, check the telephone cable between the 
 PhoneNet connectors.   Make sure it has the yellow and black wires and not 
 just the red and green wires.   There were an awful lot of really cheap 6' 
 lengths of telephone cord shipped with modems which omitted the yellow and 
 black conductors to save than 1/2 cent in manufacturing costs.
 
 Jeff Walther
  
 
 
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Re: Mac Plus won't start up

[Hardware Mack]

With it on you can give it a hard wrap on the side of left side of the case,
if there is a loose solder joint in the A/B, the the video might come right 
back.





On Oct 20, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Chris Tofu wrote:

 
 Visually inspect all capacitors for starters.  Marred, charred, corrosion, 
 explosions. Possibly a bad solder joint, crack. My first guess would be the 
 analog board. 
 
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Re: Dead PowerPC-Macs

[Hardware Mack]

usually what happens is the BGA grid breaks up with that geforce go video
processor.
if you flood the array with flux and heat it up till the solder reflows, it
usually works,
but sometimes it doesn't.

obviously there is a professional way to do it if you have a BGA re-work
station etc.


On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 5:28 PM, peteru...@gmail.com peteru...@gmail.comwrote:

 Pardon me if I’m posting to the wrong list, but I figure you might give me
 a hint, even so:
 I have a PowerBook G4 that went weird on me this summer. First a kernel
 panic, and then only able to boot from DVD, although ocasionally able to
 boot on its own, all the way to being able to open a few apps such as iCal
 and Address book to export backups. Apple Hardware Test, after much
 grinding, gave me a number, but it was undreadable, due to the screen
 turning all stripey (half centimete horizontal dark grey unreadble
 stripes). The mouse pointer turned to a largish block, about 1-2
 centimetres square before this happens. It reminds me of how an iBook
 (those thick white plastic dual bootable machines) failed due to a loose
 soldering in a videochip, temporarily amandable by squeeszing the right
 hand side of the machine. It didn’t work on my PB, but even if it won’t
 boot, I could still get all the stuff of the HD with Targer Mode. But I
 think it’s toast, considering its age.
 The iMac G5, also PowerPC, had been sitting in a closet for half a year.
 Dug it out, booted it, and the logins screen and deksktop came up fine, but
 the time and date never showed up, and I got the spinnig beach ball all the
 time. Turned it off, and on again (after a wait), and then first just got a
 gray screen,, and then a flashing folder icon, flashing the Apple icon
 (face) and a question mark, which I guess means the HD is dead. Is it
 worth it to stuff in a new HD, or is it best tossed away, considering its
 age? (It is a good machine for surfing and e-mail, although slow for the
 modern media such as youtube etc.).
 If I have posted to the worng group, I humbly ask for forgiveness and for
 the use of your time!
 Peter, Oslo, Norway

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Re: Re-Capping a Mac LCII (Soldering Issues)

[Hardware Mack]

 it's messy, corrosive and with these small surfaces

um no, its not

 I don't think it's needed

its more important when you are trying to clean up the pads, especially when 
they are all corroded up / nasty.

To each is own.. i have a production environment here, I recap mac boards just 
about every day now.








On Oct 6, 2013, at 11:05 PM, Dylan McDermond wrote:

 
 On Oct 6, 2013, at 8:02 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 i have a fan, but the whole corner gets all smoky from the flux.
 
 the best bet is to use flux / solder wick / iron and get those pads nice and 
 new looking.
 
 I prefer not to use any flux at all. It's messy, corrosive and with these 
 small surfaces I don't think it's needed. I just use silver bearing solder.
 
 - Dylan
 
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Re: Local Talk connection

[Hardware Mack]

plug them both into the printer port.  then you know its printer.

and yes,  as long as your local talk cable is good, from chooser you should
see the other mac.

Obviously you will have to share a folder or 2, and set up a UN and PW on
the one that is serving.


On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 3:31 PM, Marek Drvota marek.drv...@me.com wrote:

 Hi,

 not so happy camper reporting back.
 Trying to connect My Performa 630  Colour Classic.
 On Performa there's 7.6.1 I select AppleTalk to modem, enable file
 sharing. Next to that there's 7.1 running on colour classic - in Network
 control panel I selected Local talk built in (is it modem or printer ?)

 Then in Chooser I select AppleShare and both of the computers should see
 each other - which is not the case

 Am I doing something wrong or skipped I some steps ?

 Cheers

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Re: Startup sound - CC dead ?

[Hardware Mack]

sounds likes bad caps to me.
maybe also try to remove the ram and try it again?





On Sep 21, 2013, at 6:02 AM, Marek Drvota wrote:

 Hi all,
 
 trying to resurrect one of my favorite Macs - Color Classic
 When started it just plays the strange sound - the one you can find in the 
 linked video - 32second.
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTVmrX6Lee0
 
 Does it mean logic board is dead or something's missing ?
 
 Thx for advice
 
 M
 
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Re: 80 pin SCSI in an 8600 w/ 8.1

[Hardware Mack]

I sent you a message to your email, I'd be happy to help you out.
Charles



On Thu, Sep 19, 2013 at 12:59 PM, Miguel Nevermind mrsl...@gmail.comwrote:

 Yes the adapter also has SCCI ID jumpers. No I cannot see it in any way.
 No I do not have access to a windows based computer with SCSI access.

 I think I am going to send this back and get a refund and start over.

 Hopefully Charles will reply to the email I sent ;-)


 On Tuesday, September 17, 2013 12:42:35 AM UTC-7, Miguel Nevermind wrote:

 I got a hard drive off ebay

 
 Hard Drive SCSI Disk Western Digital WDE 4360 WDE4360-6008A7 JABCBEDC Ent
 IBM
 Western Digital Enterprise 4.3GB 3.5” 50-Pin SCSI HARD DRIVE WDE4360
 
 Guess what? it was really 80 pin.

 I got an adapter, but I can't get it to show up in SCSI probe. The drive
 and the adapter both have SCSI id jumpers.I'm not sure if they should be
 set to the same ID or different ID's, but neither seem to work.

 Is this drive just too new to work in this mac? I am not above installing
 8.5 or 9 if that will make the difference.
  Am I making some SCSI voodoo mistake? The chain is terminated at the end
 of the ribbon by the cd drive.


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Re: 8600 needs Double Boot

[Hardware Mack]

sorry for the spam -js  :-D

I would like to add that my 7500 started started doing this about 2 months
ago.
The only thing i can think of that might be the cause is a bum cap in
either the PSU or mainboard.

what i do is power it up and then instantly hit the ctrl-option-command +
power button on my AEK-II and then it boots  fine.

Charles



On Thu, Sep 19, 2013 at 1:13 PM, Miguel Nevermind mrsl...@gmail.com wrote:

 So my 8600 is having an issue where I have to turn it on, off and then on
 again to get it to boot.

 The first time I turn it on the chime plays, but the screen never lights
 up. I also hear the hard drive spin up but eventually it stops.

 Is this a power supply issue? Do these 8600 use standard ATX power
 supplies?

 More context: I replaced the PRAM battery and zapped the PRAM. I haven't
 tried the CUDA switch yet.

 I got this computer with no drive and put a drive from a diff computer
 isn't, should I try a clean install? This seems like a pre-software/hard
 drive issue.

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Re: SE/30 With Stripe Patterns

[Hardware Mack]

Good night folks,
Take a hot bath, and maybe you will feel better in the morning.

In a perfect world we would all know everything.  I'm sure if that was the 
case, We would take care of everything ourselves.
This world is not perfect.  I spent some time putting together MacCaps.com,  
and all those threads at 68kmla.org
1 - because I like mac's
2 - its a good feeling, to bring macs back from the dead.
3 - because I naturally like to help people

no, not for dollar signs.
Not at all.

There are many people that like macs to!
That is the reason for this forum and many others.

I wouldn't even say I offer a service. I'm not a busness.
I mean how much do you get paid an hour?  Many boards take like 2 hours to 
properly complete.

Heck i even take on boards nobody else will touch. Guys that tried to do it 
them selves lifted pads, got fusterated  - what ever.
i do those to… same price.

If I sent you (a) friendly email saying  Hey i'll do that for you, If ya need 
me.  - No Problem 
and that made you upset, Hey sorry.

By all means if you want to do it your self please do so.
Feel free to use any content at my site as needed.
-hope you find success in solving your SE/30 issue.



 


On Sep 17, 2013, at 9:43 PM, J.S. Garrison wrote:

 There are places where people can reasonably expect not to be sold to. A list 
 created to help people manage issues with Vintage/Classic Macs really
 is one of them, unless the majority of its members allow it to be so. Then, 
 the ones not wanting help attached to dollar signs can find a list that 
 doesn't offer parts and services for sale.
 
 
 Jeff
 
 From: j...@cimmeri.com j...@cimmeri.com
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 4:32 PM
 Subject: Re: SE/30 With Stripe Patterns
 
 
 Overly sensitive people need to grow a pair, or even just one.   If it was a 
 PM, then the issue is a private one (private message) between Charles and 
 Dodger.   If it was a post, then this is the internet (obviously).  Insisting 
 that only certain things be said on the internet is like insisting from your 
 mailman that you only receive love letters from people you consider beautiful.
 
 - jS
 
 
 J.S. Garrison wrote:
 
 You see, Mack, this is why I don't advocate advertising on a list like this. 
 You are helpful to some, obtrusive to others. If you include what you
 do in your signature, it will seem less in-your-face to people sensitive 
 to being sold to.
 
 Jeff
 
 
 From: Dodger Emmons dodger...@gmail.com
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 2:24 PM
 Subject: Re: SE/30 With Stripe Patterns
 
 I came here for advice, not for getting service advertisements. I did not 
 ask for a quote for service, but basically got one just for asking a 
 question.
 
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Re: 80 pin SCSI in an 8600 w/ 8.1

[Hardware Mack]

i sell 73 gig, 2.5 10k rpm drive that will drop in and work for $20, /wo SCA 
to 50 pin adaptor.  
Comes partitioned and ready to use. let me know.
Charles
 

On Sep 17, 2013, at 11:45 AM, Jonathan Morton wrote:

 
 On 17 Sep, 2013, at 10:42 am, Miguel Nevermind wrote:
 
 Guess what? it was really 80 pin.
 
 I got an adapter, but I can't get it to show up in SCSI probe. The drive and 
 the adapter both have SCSI id jumpers.I'm not sure if they should be set to 
 the same ID or different ID's, but neither seem to work. 
 
 Is this drive just too new to work in this mac? I am not above installing 
 8.5 or 9 if that will make the difference.
 Am I making some SCSI voodoo mistake? The chain is terminated at the end of 
 the ribbon by the cd drive.
 
 You have three devices on the chain - the controller, the hard disk, and the 
 optical drive.  All three need to have different IDs.  Since you have a 
 50-pin cable between them, all of the IDs need to be in the 0-7 range; 
 generally the controller gets ID 7, the primary hard disk gets ID 0, and the 
 optical drive gets ID 3.
 
 Do you have a terminator on the bus at either end?  It is sometimes built 
 into a drive but is selectable with a jumper or a pluggable resistor bank.  
 Since you have more than two devices on the bus, you probably should have a 
 terminator at each end of the bus - this will be at the optical drive *and* 
 at the controller card.  If the card doesn't have a built-in terminator, add 
 one to the external port - it's part of the same bus, usually.
 
 Occasionally wide SCSI drives have trouble talking to narrow SCSI buses.  
 (They shouldn't per spec, but...)  If nothing else helps, you might have run 
 into that problem.  Or, y'know, the drive might be a dud.
 
 - Jonathan Morton
 
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Re: 80 pin SCSI in an 8600 w/ 8.1

[Hardware Mack]

Yes i had similar issues, but then i found these really great drives i have
now, they are 100% backwards compatible with old scsi standards.  they even
work with the mac plus.

The Adapetec 160 scsi card in my PM 7500 sees many modern scsi drives.
Only few modern scsi hd's will allow them selves backward compatibility to
the 68k macs older PPC/mac's



On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 12:17 PM, Miguel Nevermind mrsl...@gmail.comwrote:

 Do the adapter and the drive need different SCSI id's or the same?

 I tried inserting the drive into the middle of a known working SCSI chain
 and it still won't show up. Can adding a device cause termination issues
 that weren't there before? I am confident that all the devices have
 different ID's (except for the issue of the adapter). Am I right in
 thinking that SCSI prove will see unformatted drives? This was a new drive
 (still might be a dud).


 On Tuesday, September 17, 2013 12:42:35 AM UTC-7, Miguel Nevermind wrote:

 I got a hard drive off ebay

 
 Hard Drive SCSI Disk Western Digital WDE 4360 WDE4360-6008A7 JABCBEDC Ent
 IBM
 Western Digital Enterprise 4.3GB 3.5” 50-Pin SCSI HARD DRIVE WDE4360
 
 Guess what? it was really 80 pin.

 I got an adapter, but I can't get it to show up in SCSI probe. The drive
 and the adapter both have SCSI id jumpers.I'm not sure if they should be
 set to the same ID or different ID's, but neither seem to work.

 Is this drive just too new to work in this mac? I am not above installing
 8.5 or 9 if that will make the difference.
  Am I making some SCSI voodoo mistake? The chain is terminated at the end
 of the ribbon by the cd drive.


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Re: SE/30 With Stripe Patterns

[Hardware Mack]

What in the hell are you talking about.
Why are you allowed to spread lies, I'm not the best, just trying to help
you out.
And this is the thanks i get…  Good luck bud.


On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 3:39 PM, Dodger Emmons dodger...@gmail.com wrote:

 Can someone who runs this board explain to me why Charles is allowed to
 spam me?  I got a private email about his services in addition to the web
 link he posted here advertising/reference he thinks is the best repair
 resource.

 I looked into his past messages and found this guy will use substandard
 components and advocates twisting off capacitors as part of the replacement
 process. =(

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Re: Macintosh Classic logic board

[Hardware Mack]

USPS - First Class International shipping is very inexpensive now.as
long as its under 4lbs


On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 1:19 PM, Dylan McDermond dy...@mcdermond.netwrote:

 But I'm not in Greece or Turkey.

 - Dylan

 On Sep 13, 2013, at 10:18 AM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 if mcdermd wants to chime in, i know he has a few extras


 On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 10:22 AM, spiderman sgiansaki...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hi people.
 I want to buy a logic board (Model Macintosh Classic) because mine is
 totally destroyed from battery liquids,
 based in Greece and Turkey at reasonable price.

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Re: Macintosh Classic logic board

[Hardware Mack]

yeah seriously though, with this new stuff USPS has recently instated its
cheap and easy to send internationally now.
to Turkey:   @ 8 OZ witch is what the classic main-board weighs.  might
take a full 9-10 days to get there.

First-Class Mail® International Large Envelope**[image: More info about
First-Class Mail® International Large
Envelope**]http://ircalc.usps.com/MailServices.aspx?country=10432m=2p=0o=8MailingDate=9/13/2013MailingTime=8:00%20AMdv=5#
Maximum Value for Contents: $400.00
Max. length 15, height 12 or thickness 3/4
Varies by destination
$8.00


On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 1:20 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.comwrote:

 USPS - First Class International shipping is very inexpensive now.as
 long as its under 4lbs


 On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 1:19 PM, Dylan McDermond dy...@mcdermond.netwrote:

 But I'm not in Greece or Turkey.

 - Dylan

 On Sep 13, 2013, at 10:18 AM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 if mcdermd wants to chime in, i know he has a few extras


 On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 10:22 AM, spiderman sgiansaki...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hi people.
 I want to buy a logic board (Model Macintosh Classic) because mine is
 totally destroyed from battery liquids,
 based in Greece and Turkey at reasonable price.

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