All the best, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all fellow listers.
I wish you all great sailing, very generous Santa, good winds and, as
always, at least a foot of water under the keel. And to those of us who are
on the hard, so that the winter is quickly over (they forecast +16 °C for
tomorro
Hi Ryan,
Like most others, my blower (3" commonly found) exhaust via an aft cowl vent.
I don't recall anyone mention that gas fumes be
heavier than air, so the intake hose should be as
low as practical and below the lowest possible ignition point.
I have the intake laying alongside the aft po
as used along the
>> toe rail. Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant
>> differences, so I think the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems
>> like if they had made the anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't
>> hav
DON'T DO IT!
If you must use a fuel line anti-freeze, use a very small amount of 99%
isopropyl alcohol.
Do not use a lower percentage, and again, don't use very much.
That was the advice I got from a Shell chemical engineer.
If you are not sailing in below freezing conditions, use a commercia
Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> o
Danny,
I know Peter over at Triad so I can ask for a quote. They do nice work.
Thanks!
Chuck Gilchrest
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 23, 2015, at 3:27 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi Chuck,
>
> I have my boat in Mattapoisett at triad boatworks. The walnut was a lot less
>
My fridge compressor/radiator is in the engine compartment. I ran the intake
vent piping to the radiator to get the cooler air. The exhaust vent pipe runs
to forward lowest area of the engine compartment. I upgraded to 4" to Max the
air movement and tried for a quieter exhaust fan. I run exhaust
I also have a used Martec available. It has been a nice decoration in my
office since I switched it for a Flex-o-Fold a few years back, but it does
still work (just not in reverse...). It's for a 1" shaft and free with
shipping costs to a good home.
Tim
Branford, CT
On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 9:41
+1
You want to separate water, not burn it!
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 3:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List methyl hydrate
You're far better of
On my Viking i ran all new hose to the vents on the transom. I used the blower
to pull air out of the back of the engine compartment and attached the other
end of the hose to one vent and faced its scoop aft. The other scoop I faced
forward and ran the hos attached to it to the front of the en
You're far better off investing in Racor filter/water separators. Do not try to
force water through your injectors!
Andy
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
> On Dec 23, 2015, at 15:18, Bev Parslow via
Hi Chuck, I have my boat in Mattapoisett at triad boatworks. The walnut was a
lot less than $5000! They gave me a per ft number but I can't remember it
right now. However, the complete bottom job start to finish with materials was
about $5k to $6K If I pull my notes out later I'll give you be
No. My diesel guys hate it. It doesn't make the water burnable. Don't do it!
That's all in capitals as if I'm shouting!
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
> On Dec 23, 2015, at 1
Is it worthwhile putting this into diesel fuel to absorb water. Some say it is
beneficial and others say not. What is the consensus?___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
Something like this might be what you are looking for:
3” in-line bilge blower DetMar Cat No. 7-5-4; 12 VDC 3.5A; Ignition protected –
6 AMP fuse (http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-1C-4-Blower-Bilge/dp/B0009TQ2WC or
http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge/dp/BAYG8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie
edrill.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
s.
> Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each hole, dry it out for 3-7
> days (which may not be doable till the summer), fill with thickened epoxy and
> redrill.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> ___
Lee,
You aren't going to win any races with it! I have not used it in a couple
years. It is currently buried behind Christmas presents. I'll pull it out
in a couple days.
I believe it has a luff rope (no slides) and is loose footed. It was the
better of the two mains that came with the boat.
Joel,Iam interested, please let me know the condition. Thanks Lee,35-3.
-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: Joel Aronson
Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 1:55 pm
Subject: Stus-List Free main off of 35/3
All,
my new main has arrived. I have an old but usa
All,
my new main has arrived. I have an old but usable dacron main I no longer
need. It should fit a 35 or Landfall 38.
Just pay shipping and add battens Otherwise it will become a duffle bag.
--
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis
301 541 8551
___
Ema
Make sure the replacement is designed specifically for venting explosive
gasses, and not just general ventilation.
Bill Bina
On 12/23/2015 1:44 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote:
Hey all,
I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C&C 30
mki. I'm almost through rewiring
iberglass layer isn't thick
> enough to fit the screws. Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each
> hole, dry it out for 3-7 days (which may not be doable till the summer),
> fill with thickened epoxy and redrill.
> >
> > -Patrick
> > 1984 C&C L
Chuck:
I have no first hand experience with either soda or walnut blasting. I
did however have the bottom of my boat 'dry ice blasted' to remove the
antifouling paint down to the gelcoat.
Dry ice blasting is a very quick, clean and effective method to strip
bottom paint. Perhaps another op
My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges. So, in 1983
that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing--absolutely n
One advantage to adding a barrier coat even if there are no blisters, is
that you apply the first coat of bottom paint while the barrier is not
completely set, and you get a chemical as well as a mechanical bond.
This will improve subsequent bottom paint adhesion far into the future.
Barrier co
Hi Danny,
Can I ask who did the walnut stripping on your boat and at which yard? I'm
having my "new" 1983 Landfall 35 brought down from the North Shore of Mass
to the South Coast in early January and the bottom paint is flaking off in
chunks, revealing the shiny original gel coat underneath in mo
There is a used Martec on Annapolis Craigslist. No relationship to the
seller.
Joel
On Wednesday, December 23, 2015, S Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Agree also.
> I replaced the original Michigan Wheel 2 blade on my 27 with a 2 blade
> geared Gori and got better "traction"
Most paints and barrier coats call for 80 grit random orbital to get the
right tooth. This is as much for your satisfaction as it is for the
manufacturer's guarantee. That doesn't mean that the paint won't stick if
you don't do this. I'm confident that the engineers at the paint lab don't
perfor
Agree also.
I replaced the original Michigan Wheel 2 blade on my 27 with a 2 blade
geared Gori and got better "traction" in reverse, due I think to the
increased surface area.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
- Original Message -
From: "ahycrace
Danny,
I had my hull soda blasted a couple years back. The surface needed nothing
more than a wipe down before I applied a barrier coat. The blasting left a
finish with plenty of tooth for the barrier coat to adhere. Sanding the
hull should not be needed, but if you hull is as shiny as you s
Danny
Are you adding barrier coat?
I'd start by reading the directions on the can. Sounds like a waste of
time to me.
Joel
On Wednesday, December 23, 2015, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello guys,
>
> I just heard from the yard. they walnut strip the bottom. H
Hello guys, I just heard from the yard. they walnut strip the bottom. He told
me it was the best looking bottom he'd seen in a long time (well, thank you
very much!)! he even said the original coat of paint was still on it and the
hull was shiny as the day it came out of the factory after the
In following this thread, and for the new owners out thereI recommend
taking a look at the C&C photo album specs; for many of the models, it seems
that the early designs used the external "strap" hinges which the first poster
asked about; then somewhere in the late 1970s or early 1980s, C&C
Maybe other LF38 owners could confirm, but all other LF38 anchor locker lid
attachments I have seen photos of use SS strap hinges.
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> On Dec 22, 2015, at 9:12 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wro
I hear ya! I upgraded again in October and I'm in the save situation, waiting
for spring...
Danny
MassachusettsOn Dec 23, 2015 8:12 AM, Headgorilla via CnC-List
wrote:
>
> Thanks Dan!
>
> The O'day is wrapped up and put away for long storage, I redid the interior
> completely last winter in
Thanks Dan!
The O'day is wrapped up and put away for long storage, I redid the interior
completely last winter including all new bulkheads, teak dinette, electric,
watermay sell it eventually or give it to one of my kids...
I appreciate the input, and I can hardly wait to get the 34 back
Paul,
My 86 model has piano hinges everywhere on deck. Three cockpit lockers, the
lazarette, and the anchor locker are all stainless piano hinges. Mine have
loosened up over time and I have had to repair and tighten each of them.
Adding some epoxy filler really helps the small screws get
A bit late to this thread but again, but another chuckle when recognizing a
very similar experience.
As Martin said about those years in the late 70’s, my friend Charlie and I were
asked to help out new owners of a 3/4 ton IOR boat of which I can’t remember
the name, designer or builder. It was
Hi Mike! Welcome to the list. My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and
the I moved up to a c&c designed Viking 33.
Ed is right! You're going to love the c&c 34! The power in the sails is
probably the first that will impress you! Congratulations on your new boat!
As for the hot water,
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