Agree in general but has such high tech line solved its limited lifetime under
constant UV?
This problem led me to go with bare SS a few years ago instead of such high
tech line.
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36XL/kcbWater Phantom
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On
Don't know about the 35-3 outhaul system but my 36XL/kcb there is a purchase
system buried in the boom as well likely similar to yours.
Mine can be accessed by undoing a shackle near the gooseneck on the underside
of the boom after the the outhaul is free to move.
IIRC, you should undo the
Hey Chris; +1 to comments thus far--you need to find out what or how your
diesel shuts down. I suspect that somewhere on it is a lever which allows you
to manually cut-off the fuel supply when all else fails. My Beta has a
shut-off button which activates a solenoid to close the fuel off--and
Thanks for all the replies--and I agree that throwing a kedge anchor is not
very practical.
OTOH, without a dinghy or other anchor 'float', getting any anchor out with any
scope for it to set is problematic. With a delivery crew of 2, hanging on the
boom is the same--little effect.
Ideal is
Also be sure your overflow tank/fittings and the ‘radiator’ cap are both
working and have good seals.
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On Friday, April 5, 2019, Gary Russell via CnC-List
wrote:
You can't rule out a head gasket, either. Look for a milky
IIRC, McMaster-Carr has various sizes and colors of these covers. Charlie
Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the
I appreciate your desire to keep the original gel coat but I have had the yard
do the ‘standard’ application using gel coat similar to Dennis’ suggestion.
A few years later it needed it again and I had them use Kiwi. It is now about 6
years out and it’s still good—plus it’s easy for me to apply
Agree with philosophy of not using main in heavy winds astern.
OTOH, I wonder about the unbalanced forces on the stays/boat when a stern wind
is 30+ knots even with some ofthe 'telephone pole' masts on some C when only
a head sail is flown.
Mine mast is rather bendy with check stays and in high
¾” or ½” bolts.
Give me a call and we can arrange to meet some place.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 9:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
-250-ft-lbs-1-2-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H2DTWA/205914009
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Thu, Feb 21, 2019, 5:47 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
Thanks for chiming in Josh. I like not buying a multiplier!
Will have a look for a 250 ft-lb wrench etc. and review your
Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: February-21-19 3:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bolts, nuts and torque
Renting a large torque wrench is a easy solution...
>From my Android
From: CnC-List on behalf of Charlie Nelson via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February
drive
extensions and a 1/2 inch drive, deep, 6 point, 1-1/2" socket.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Thu, Feb 21, 2019, 1:41 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___
Thanks everyone for supporting
It appears per list comments that it is OK to tighten my keel/centerboard
'trunk' without putting her on the hard. Since I can reach most of the nuts by
removing the cabin sole, I figure its worth a try. I cannot reach the bolts
under the mast this way but I can probably get to most of the
Great information Jeff---it certainly shows that tightening on the hard is not
necessary--and as soon as I can round-up the proper torque wrench I will give
it a go while she is in the water. If I can tighten those that I can reach, it
might stop the leak--or at least slow it significantly.
If
I am not an engineer in any sense of the word but perhaps someone on the list
can critique these thoughts of mine:
Keel bolts can be tightened on the hard (while resting on the keel) or in the
water while the keel is hanging from the bolts.
I suspect the job would be considerably easier
Perhaps but not all 'new' things last or displace others- Edsels, New Coke,
push button transmissions in cars, self-cleaning bathrooms, are a few that come
to mind.
OTOH, the foiling cats are great fun to watch in anticipation of a crash of
some sort--sort of like Formula-1 or NASCAR. However,
Can you come in stern to?
Prop walk, etc. is exacerbated when moving slowly in forward or reverse.
If there is open water near your slip, get going with rudder control in
reverse, gird your loins, tell yourself you can do it and with judicious use of
throttle, neutral and reverse drive your
Can you come in stern to?
Prop walk, etc. is exacerbated when moving slowly in forward or reverse.
If there is open water near your slip, get going with rudder control in
reverse, gird your loins, tell yourself you can do it and with judicious use of
throttle, neutral and reverse drive your
Love that idea--will add it to mine but probably have to fill in the cove strip
'groove' where the name would go.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36 XL/kcb
-Original Message-
From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List
To: Rob Ball
Cc: Randy Stafford ; cnc-list
; Bria Knowles
Sent: Sun, Jan
Thanks to all who responded. Not unexpectedly the solutions are as varied as
the circumstances within the clubs!
However, they did suggest some ideas that we may need to consider, especially
ensuring that a paper club affiliation
with a club with real estate is fair to all concerned.
Hello all CnCers;
I have some questions for those of you who belong to Sailing or Yacht Clubs,
especially those with buildings and grounds, etc. Those whose clubs are 'paper
only' can also chime in.
Blackbeard Sailing Club (BSC) has ~ 200 members and is exclusively a sailing
club founded
1+ on this from Dennis! Been there and done that when I replaced T-handle with
pressure gauge.
My diesel mechanic (having replaced/tightened all other fittings) suggested
replacing the Racor filter top.
Done and problem gone--when Racor says hand-tighten this top--PAY ATTENTION.
Sometimes
Some parts of my engine (Beta 28) are flaking their Ford red paint and before I
clean and paint the entire engine, I would like to
soda blast these parts--sanding or even wire brushing would be ineffective
since much of the flaking is in places where it
is difficult if not impossible to fit,
Some of the early 90s C actually came from the factory with Corian (?) sinks
and counter tops, including my 1995 36 XL/kcb.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
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On Friday, November 30, 2018, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
wrote:
Hi
Thanks to all who sent suggestions on this glue residue removal.
I am going to try acetone with a soft rag and hope that it evaporates so fast
that it won't bother the Awlgrip.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
___
True but these were large Charleston Race Week stickers (2018) and that was
held back in April!!
Of course it may have been easier if I had not procrastinated 7+ months in
tending to their removal!!
Charlie
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
Hey all;
I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my boat--talk about
delaying things!
Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip painted hull.
Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.
I am thinking I need a petroleum based
Monel is probably the best way to go--but it will cost you.
My mechanic was surprised I went with a new tank (he did the tank repair) since
he thought it would be a ~ $2000 for a new monel tank.
He was even more surprised when I told him it was $450 for a custom fitted
aluminum tank--which
My 24 yr old Alum tank came with the boat. On delivery from NC to CRW in April
2018, tank developed several leaks at bottom forward edge where it sat in some
brackish water, probably for years. Crew made temp repairs after tank removal
with a black epoxy made for such repairs. All fine but I
Racor sells a vacuum gauge which can be mounted in place of the T-handle on the
top plate of some of their filter housings.
If anyone adds a gauge there, be VERY careful not to tighten it (or the T
handle for that matter) too much. Racor warns about this as well.
It took several trips by my
+1 on the uselessness of polishing your fuel.
+1 on use of vacuum gauges if properly installed—their installation can
introduce air leaks where they are installed.
Screen on pick-up tube could also be clogged.
+1 on removing all current fuel and crud by getting tank out of boat. A pita
but
My 1995 36XL/kcb was on the hard for the past several months for bottom work.
She had many layers of bottom paint sanded off to the gelcoat, barrier coats
(x2) applied and then spray painted with
Black Widow bottom paint which was then burnished/fine sanded to a very smooth
finish.
Before
My 1995 XL/kcb was originally fit with baby stays, which as others have noted
are generally a big PITA. However, since they ‘came as standard’ on my boat,
who was I to think that they were not essential—I am hardly a naval
architect/engineer or otherwise qualified to question their necessity.
I noticed a small water leak at the very aft end of the centerboard (cb)
trunk/keel (where it meets the hull) of my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb while she was
hanging from the travel lift awaiting to be splashed. It is not anything like
the C 'smile'.
My assumption is that it was bilge water seeping out
If your Gori is sized properly based on the engine, transmission and clearance
(all likely given your performance), you probably have the lowest drag
propeller available.
Tests years ago on propeller drag in a water tank(published in Yachting
magazine) showed that the Gori had the least drag
Along these lines, has anyone on the list done something similar (glued
laminate?) to refinish a cabin sole? If so, what comments about the job do you
have.
Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: Danny
I still find it a little unnerving to swap the paddle wheel out with a plug—you
and your cabin sole will definitely get wet no matter how practiced you are.
OTOH, neither you nor the sole will melt or wash away and the brief gusher
gives you an idea of why a holed bottom will overcome ANY bulge
Before the pressure tests, etc. suggested by Josh, check/replace radiator cap.
Gasket on it may be leaking or spring may be tired after many years of life and
lots of engine time.
Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom
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Owned Water Phantom since 1995–only boat I would move up to would be C 37/40
KCB or 40 or 41–all with KCBs.
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On Thursday, September 27, 2018, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello Al,
I have a question for the list.
How
Its is hard to tell for sure from the computer pictures but the color could be
Aristo Blue--which is what I used on my boat 7 years ago.
Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
If the Harken Halyard restrainer is too expensive and/or bulky for your
forestay/mast angle, you can mount as simple bale to the mast that will work as
well.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Wade Harrogate via CnC-List
To:
I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to
seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and
possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the
yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
Opinions and experiences of the list
No-in a fleet of about 18 PHRF spin boats with ratings from -62 to 180, we were
mid fleet!
Thanks for hair dryer tip. I definitely want to minimize Aelfric damage.
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On Wednesday, July 18, 2018, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List
wrote:
I have Charleston Race Week stickers on my bow (OK, I have been busy with other
things!) that I need to remove.
The boat has Awl-Grip on its hull which I would prefer to preserve.
Aside from plastic scrapers, soap and water, and elbow grease, does anyone have
a magic remedy to remove this.
Don’t know what they are called but rubber kitchen type table leg protectors
work for me.
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On Monday, July 16, 2018, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello again, are there any clever ways to protect the transom from the
Depending on your rigger, it might be easier and less expensive to have him add
a low profile ‘bale’ or mast mounted small block to provide what you need.
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On Sunday, July 15, 2018, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Guys,
I've
Thanks to all who replied to my query regarding hydraulic auto-pilots--I have
committed/sent the check to have a Raymarine unit installed!
Charlie Nelson
1995 C XL/kcb
Water Phantom
cenel...@aol.com
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list
My Raymarine wheel pilot has given up the ghost and I am considering a below
deck hydraulic replacement. The cost is reasonable since most of my Raymarine
stuff will be used by the hydraulic unit.
My concern is how responsive (or not!) the wheel will be when the pilot is
disengaged. With the
I think most polars assume a kite will be used downwind.
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: David Knecht via CnC-List
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Sent: Sat, Jun 30, 2018 7:48 am
Subject: Stus-List downwind polars
The polars for my boat predict an optimal
Have decided to bite the bullet and brighten up my cabins by cleaning up the
teak which has only ever been oiled—and not really that often!
I am leaning toward using the spray on stuff from Clorox similar to ‘scrubbing
bubbles’ to clean and remove what little oil/dirt remains before applying a
My 36 XL/kcb 1995 also has a purchase arrangement inside the boom--I think it
is 2 or 3 to 1. Adjustment never requires winches.
Getting the purchase straightened out and the length correct when the line
needs replaced is, however, a PITA!
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire) failed
after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since then, I
replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the yard's
recommendation although I have considered using high tech line.
On
I like NER Endure braid 10mm/3/8" for my 36. Rated for 11,000 lbs, nice hand
and works in my clutches fine.
My guess is that a VPC that works in your clutches would be overkill in
addition to bring expensive.
Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom
Greenville, NC
cenel...@aol.com
This bring back bad memories of my Yammer's demise about 10 years ago.
Unknown to me then, either or both of these (sensor and gauge) failed or were
incapable of measuring temperature without coolant when the coolant was very
low.
Motoring along my engine died (just slowly quit running as
I will take some this weekend.
Charlie
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 3:28 pm
Subj
After I had Water Phantom awl-gripped professionally about 7 years ago, I had a
canvas maker build a 'boot' for the transom.
This is made of some kind of relatively tough vinyl, complete with graphics,
and is attached to the stern pulpit with
simple fasteners around the pulpit supports. It
I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am thinking
of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them.
I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get
something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
rust/tarnish (forget about the
I used the heaviest solid wood I could find--I think it was 1/2" thick,
relatively cheap and available at Lowes and relatively easy to work with normal
tools. The available Starboard in that thickness was pretty expensive.
Coated it with the thin type epoxy (forgot the name) that soaks into
IIRC, at least on my 36 XL, the toe rail bolts also hold the deck to the hull
at the hull-deck joint.
I had an old water leak from a collision 15 years ago repaired this past
summer. The leak was at about 6 ft aft of the bow on the starboard side. The
fix was to undo the toe rail and bolts
All the posts about exterior teak have got me thinking about redoing my cabin
teak.
(I am fortunate that my 1995 36 C XL/kcb has no exterior teak!)
My interior teak, however, is extensive and never varnished although I did
'oil' it once or twice in the 20+ years of ownership.
Some of it has
e Genoa Cars, 1994 C 37/40+
Hi Charlie,
Any chance you have a photo of your setup you can post/send?
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Original message ----
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date:
That looks like a standard low-profile Lewmar track/car and it looks like it
has the internal blocks to make it adjustable. Add a suitable block on the fore
and aft ends of the track, run a line appropriately and eventually to the
cockpit and you have adjustable cars.
Mind that you face the
I believe they produced many of this model--however, there is also a
possibility that not every number used was sequential.
Some manufacturers in other fields will change the serial number when a minor
change is made. Thus you might have gaps in the number sequence with some
numbers not used
Another solution--years ago I used a mast boot that had adhesive around the
edges (maybe only the ends) of the ~ 8" wide soft white
plastic/rubber strip. Don't recall the vendor.
Either per the instructions that came with it (or not--too many years ago!), I
used LARGE SS hose clamps to secure
A few suggestions:
Have a look at a similar sized boat on the hard and contemplate holding a
sander (~5-6 inches in diameter) above your head while you move it along the
bottom while moving a chair to sit on or doing it standing or kneeling.
Remember that you must not poison yourself with the
My 36XL/kcb is of a different vintage but I believe it was a slightly scaled
down version of the C 37/40 of the late 80s/early 90s. Yours may be very
different.
FWIW, the center boards of the above vintages were fiberglass filled with lead.
On my 36, the board weighs about 1000 lbs.
My pin
Good luck with any 'spot' repairs.
The yard just fixed a collision based leak of longstanding on my starboard bow
quarter hull-deck joint and had to remove the bolts back to about mid-ship to
get enough separation to reach the joint. This was about 6-8 times the
length of the leaking portion
On the same note, does the list have any thoughts on covering the sole with a
thin teak and holly laminate/plastic(?) that is basically 'stuck/glued' to the
original sole.
I saw an article in Sail Magazine about how to do this but don't know how it
might hold up--probably a lot cheaper and
I used to ride to meetings with an older (then!) fellow who was involved in
maintenance for a large long-haul freight trucking company. They followed a
simple formula that they probably learned from experience about the diesel
engines on their trucks--they probably had several hundred, maybe
If an Edson pedestal, talk to their technical support. I just received a new
handle, shaft and bushing for mine for less than a boat buck.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: bruce via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
I replaced mine a few years ago and went with Northstar AGMs (Group 31). These
were highly rated then by several reviews.
They claim to be made from 'virgin' (as opposed to recycled) lead, are ~ $350
each and weigh at least 70 lbs.
The ones I got previously from Sams club (AGM--forgot the
It is time for me to replace my centerboard pennant--now 6 years old.
The yard likes to go with stainless steel wire, which is the same as the
original pennant delivered with the boat when new in 1995.
I am considering using an equivalent or stronger dyneema line but have a few
questions
Is this boat the C 37/40 or a different animal altogether?
Charlie Nelson
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: rshibe via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: rshibe
Sent: Wed, Jul 5, 2017 1:49 pm
Subject: Re:
If any lister is interested, I keep my boat in Oriental for the summer and will
be down there this weekend so I could have a look (FWIW!).
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
To:
ee the pump should be
downstream of the primary filter.
Dennis C.
On Mon, Jun 26, 2017 at 8:34 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Thanks for your responses. To answer some of the questions raised, the pumps
were placed downstream of the Racor for a couple o
a jumper
line with a cheap inline filter in it. If the problem persists, look elsewhere.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jun 25, 2017 at 7:31 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
My Beta 28 fuel system has recently developed a penchan
Thanks for your responses. To answer some of the questions raised, the pumps
were placed downstream of the Racor for a couple of reasons.
1. The pump original location was upstream of the Racor (30 micron) which was
recommended by the Beta engineer because these small pumps do not have much
Note that you may also have an O ring or 2 on the shaft that the impeller turns
on that are on the engine side of the impeller. On my Beta, there were 2 O
rings between the impeller and the engine--these keep the water out of the
crankcase, etc.
If these are bad or the shaft is 'scored',
One of my jib sheets' cover split during my last racing adventure--of course a
little too far from either end to just cut or reverse the line. The line is
3/8" Endura braid with a dyneema core which is fine--and at 10,000 lbs breaking
strength should stay fine!
I have some experience in
What needs to be considered in this discussion of best sails for pointing, vmg,
etc., is where and why you are sailing.
1. In light summer airs in shore within the rivers and sounds of the NC coast,
you may outpoint a 12 meter with a 90% headsail--but good luck even approaching
your 'hull
1+ on the Milwaukee right angle drill.
A local rigger who is up and down many masts many times has one and his
assistant drives him skyward easily with it.
Not cheap but definitely capable of many trips up the mast but much much
cheaper than an electric winch and it is easily useable on any
I think the sending unit has a gasket (flat AFAIK) and it may have
disintegrated or stiffened and broke after many years. This may be all you need
to replace. I wouldn't worry about finding a exact replacement, just a soft,
diesel fuel resistant flat rubber-like sheet of ~ 1/16" can be used.
Geez--this list is starting to sound like a gathering of English sports car
buffs (I used to house a classic MG and a Aston-Martin in my large garage with
only a single wide door--the door was not a problem since the owners spent so
much time fixing their cars, they hardly ever left the
Hello all;
I want to clean up my diesel engine/compartment/etc. now that I have corrected
a belt problem which has, over the years, sent lots of black belt dust over
everything thanks partly to the alternator cooling fan--no need to go into that
disaster! Of course some of the dust attached
I would bet that your diesel fuel and possibly the tank inside surfaces will be
filled with and/or covered by crud from whatever living or dead bacteria, etc.
that can live in that environment in the boat's climate.
Before you get the engine running, I suggest you 'polish' the fuel yourself or
I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and bilge
prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the alternator and
the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting panel before
I begin blasting away with the washer.
I could never reach
Another reason to use good quality butyl tape IMHO. The old usually peels off
easily and can be replaced with new without further cleaning of the surface.
Since it doesn't come out of a tube like most caulks but comes off a roll,
there is minimal mess in applying it and cleaning up the excess.
I have had my windows replaced twice in my boat's lifetime: In the spring of
2016 and about 10 years earlier in ~ 2005 which was 10 years from her delivery
from the factory in 1995.
Since I did not have the time (and likely the expertise!) to repeat the
factory's method of gluing them to the
Replacing the seals is ~ $300 and any decent hydraulic shop can do it. If the
piston sleeve is scored (unlikely), its junk. Otherwise, a seal replacement
makes it perform like new.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Dave via
As is sometimes the case, 2 of my 8 crew were no shows for racing yesterday. Of
course it was "blowing the dogs off the chains" wind--8-20 knots!
Short-handed we struggled with a chicken/reaching chute during the first race
(total disaster on douse!) so we did the next 2 races without the kite
Get the adjustable ones fro APSLTD--held under cleat with bungee cords and easy
on and off-~ $35/pair.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: Rick
have the baby stay but no check stays.
Jacob Fuerst
'78 C 36
303-520-4669
On Dec 4, 2016 8:04 PM, "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Not any longer--ditched that many years ago on the advice on my sailmaker who
saw little reason for it on a masthea
-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: jacob fuerst <jjfue...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 4, 2016 9:34 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
Do you have a baby stay?
Jacob Fuerst
'78 C 36
303-520-4669
On Dec 4, 2016 6:21 PM, "
We use a carbon fiber pole on Water Phantom, C 36 XL/kcb, for our kite(s) and
have 'oscillated' back and forth between doing dip-pole jibes or end-for-end.
The pole is a relatively light Forte carbon fiber pole with snap-in fitting on
both ends.
We always use lazy sheets and guys.
As the
I am toying with the idea of chartering a 40+ foot mono or cat around memorial
Day and the following week in the Southern Bay- the further south the better
for traveling from NC or GA.
Need room for ~ 4 adults and 4 kids (10-14) but we would not stay on board all
week.
Any recommendations
My 1995 XL has a port and starboard set of bullseyes for a double ended
downhaul that can be secured on both sides of the cockpit.
The bullseye tracks end in a cam cleat at the end of the cabin top and run
about 1/2 way up the cabin sides to a double block forward under the pole that
I have used a Gori geared folding 2 blade for the last 5+ years without a
problem. It replaced a feathering 3 blade Maxi-prop which had been rebuilt once
and was very tired.
Of course the 2 blade Gori does not have the thrust in reverse that my Max-prop
had but I doubt that it is much less
I have mid-ship cleats that need to be prevented from catching any lines while
club racing.
The boat originally had stainless steel cleat covers that lay flat on the deck
when the cleat was in use and then could be 'raised' to a vertical position
during racing to prevent line from catching on
Shipping the rod may not be practical but it is possible if necessary.
Rod can be 'rolled' into a circle whose diameter depends on the rod
diameter--IIRC for my 36 XL, I think the yard rolled it into about a 6'
diameter circle before it was securely tied up and shipped via UPS or FedEx to
Hey all;
Although I have VMG (or at least its approximate equivalent) available from my
Garmin 746 Chart plotter and can display it on one of my 4 Garmin displays
above the companionway, I find it difficult to see it with crew in the cockpit
and I don't like putting my head into the boat
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