My tach was getting "stuck" a lot last summer. Replaced the harnesses at
the engine and control panel this spring...that problem and a lot of other
minor sporadic issues vanished.
Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto
On Tue., Jul. 26, 2022, 8:48 p.m. Dave S via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Thanks for all the replies.
I was able to fairly easily turn the starboars SS rod that is inside the
boat. The head rotated inside the aluminum block without much resistance. 1
1/2 turns did the trick and got it as tight as the port side rod.
I backed off the nuts on the brass bolts that pass
Hi all,
I'm about to start rebedding some of my deck hardware on my C 33 mkii
(1986) and have moved onto the chainplates.
Inside the boat, there is a tie rod that is connected to the hull and runs
up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The block is directly
under the chainplate;
Hi all,
I'm rebedding most of my deck hardware this spring and have come to my
chainplates. I have a C 33 mkii (1986). Inside the boat, a tie rod runs
from the hull up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The
chainplate is attached to the aluminum block by 4 bolts.
The starboard
So I had a forward bulkhead problem too on my 33ii. But it was at the base
of the bulkhead on the port side. The cause of the rot was that there was
no limber hole in the bulkhead so that any water that seeped out of the
shower sump would just sit against the bulkhead.
I ended up cutting and
I just sew two flat oil lamp wicks into a T and place through the hole in
the toe rail. The T holds them in place. Available online or in any outdoor
store.
Mike
Atacama 33ii
On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:55 a.m. James Hesketh via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> A while back there was
Hi Andy,
Could you elaborate on "if you do it right" with respect to single handing
an outside gybe with an asymmetrical spin? :)
I'll set and douse mine single handed, but have yet to attempt a single
handed gybe.
Mike
On Mon., Mar. 8, 2021, 10:41 a.m. Andrew Burton via CnC-List, <
So there is some water that comes down the mast. But the mast sits in a
metal box. I sealed the bottom with silicone, drilled a hole in the aft
side and ran a tube into the bilge. So any water that comes down the mast
runs directly into the bilge.
Somehow water is getting into the keel stub
t; up in the bilge. I think your boat guy meant that if the hatches are
> leaking the water will end up there.
>
> Adam
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> ------------------
> *From:* Michael Crombie via CnC-List
> *S
I'm at a complete loss for ideas on this and would like to ask the group
for some suggestions.
I have had my C 33 mkii for 6 years now. There has always been a small
leak in the bilge, i.e. water is actually seeping in through the forward
bilge wall about half-way down.
The bilge is about 2
Hi Alan,
I had that issue last summer. Suspected both the heat exchanger and the hot
water tank. So I disconnected the coolant hoses from the hot water tank and
just connected them together (thereby just by-passing the HW tank).
Then I replaced the seals on the heat exchanger, which definitely
I had my topsides painted with awlgrip 3 years ago. It looks fantastic and
maintenance is pretty straight forward It takes a lot less effort than
gelcoat in the spring. I follow the recommended cleaning and protection 2x
per season.
However, as I found out while docking single handed in a very
My marina won't haul you out in the winter if you have any sails still on.
One of the yard guys told me that it was for precisely that reason!
Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto
On Wed, Jan 8, 2020, 4:46 PM Tom Alessi via CnC-List Went to check up on my boat the other day and found that my lower port
Hi Glen,
I'm game! Perfect excuse to get a new mainsail.
Mike
Atacama
C 33 mkii
Toronto
On Wed, Oct 23, 2019, 4:45 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> Just checking in to see if there is any interest in a 2020 regatta on the
> north shore of Lake Ontario? I know the National
Michael Crombie
Atacama, C 33, mkii, 1986
Toronto
michaelcrombi...@gmail.com
On Thu, Oct 3, 2019, 9:14 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
> Charlie Nelson/Water Phantom/C 36XL/kcb/1995/US 83309/
> cenel...@aol.com/Greenville, NC
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the
I too am following this thread with interest.
My 33 mkii leans slightly to starboard and is faster on starboard tack.
Was always a source of mild anxiety.
I was very careful with my mast tuning, so i felt i had eliminated that as
the cause. My water tank and ice box (always full of beer) are on
Hi Lee,
I have a 33 mkii on Lake Ontario and have a second reef. I use it a lot,
in fact probably more than my first reef.
I'll have to check when I get home on the exact location of the reef
points.
Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
On Fri, Mar 22, 2019, 6:33 PM Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List <
Hi Charlie - you are right to be hesitant about any type of cleaning pad
(scotch-brite, etc). They will scratch your paint!
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
On Wed, Nov 28, 2018, 2:12 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Hey all;
>
> I finally managed to remove the 2018
Thanks everyone! All great ideas and solutions...now I just need to figure
out which is best for me and Atacama.
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 3:02 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
> My solution is a rotating pod on a platform. The photo is mark I.
>
>
Hi all, I purchased a 7" Raymarine chartplotter for my 33 mkii. I am
looking for mounting suggestions. Should I get a "pod" and, if so, from
whom? I don't really want a large, disproportionate one. Or should I just
make my own out of plastic?
Thanks,
Mike
Atacama
C 33 mkii
On Fri, Oct 19,
I just got an asym chute this year and ran the tack line through the bow
roller and back to a cleat near the cockpit on my 33.
Given that I was just trying it out this year and don't have an experienced
crew, I only flew it in winds up to 9-10 knots. Worked quite well under
those conditions.
Hi Sean. I had the same "chirping" problem with my 2GM20F. My oil level
was fine. The ground on the sensor was good. So I replaced the sensor,
but still had the chirping. My mechanic came by and we put on a pressure
gauge...pressure was good!
So, for now I'm just living with the chirping
Hi all, does anyone know which solenoid terminals I need to connect (with a
screwdriver) when i'm jump starting a yanmar 2gm20f?
Thanks,
Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
On Fri, Jul 13, 2018, 9:43 PM Persuasion37 via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Sorry I have limited data. But there is a
Hi Ray,
I had the same problem with my 33. I think it was due to 2 issues...1. The
PO had a hard grounding at some point and 2 the 33 mkii mast steps need to
be strengthened. My mast was compressing the step.
Your description matches mine exactly...water seeping in the side walls of
the bilge.
Hi Bev,
I'm a bit confused by your description. By "round" attachment, do you mean
cylindrical? My first thought is that this is your secondary fuel filter
and the bleed nut is open. This filter is located on the front of the
engine (trace the fuel line from the fuel pump). But then your
Hi Rod,
If it hasn't already gone, please contact me off list at
mcrom...@interrockminerals.com.
Thanks,
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
On Dec 5, 2017 4:28 PM, "Rod Stright via CnC-List"
wrote:
> One like new Doyle Racing Asymmetrical spinnaker in like new condition will
Hi Bill,
I was going to drop by and ask how the race went...but now I know!
Like Neil, I just installed a Garhauer rigid vang and tapped out holes in
mast (8) and boom (6). Haven't been out in anything more than 18-20 knots
yet, but so far so good.
Drop by anytime and take a look.
Mike
Atacama
Hi Dave,
I have a 33-2 as well and the PO had just simply run some speaker wires through
the foreward bulkhead walls and had the speakers sitting on the shelves. That
was an obvious pain as they kept falling all over the place every time i went
for a sail. Also it was pretty unsightly where
I have the hose leading to a foot pump under the sink. The pump output just
goes up into the sink. I'm now adept at mixing cocktails and foot pumping at
the same time.
(I have a valve just before the footpump that allows me to switch over to the
fresh water tank in the event that the
Mine is on the starboard side. As mentioned already by other listers, storage
on the port side is a pain since I have to list off cushions and fold out the
extra bed.
Mike
Atacama 33ii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal
Hi gang,
Last fall I wrote about removing my depth sounder as water was leaking in. It
was a traditional external depth sounder with a mushroom head. It was held in
place with a locking nut that screwed down against a wood backing block.
I dug out the rotten wood and ground down all the
Larry, I switched to soft shackle this year from bowline because the bowlines
were always getting hung up on my baby stay and i'd'have to run forward.
Didn't happen once this season!
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon
For the non-mechanic; The oil pressure alarm should sound for a second or two
when you start your engine and then shut off. (Assuming your alarm speaker,
wiring, and ignition circuit are all ok)
Or you can disconnect the wire from the sending unit and measure the resistance
from the sending
Thanks again everyone! I have a much clearer picture now.
I'll dismantle over the next weekend or two and will do installation in the
spring when it is warmer.
Will keep you posted...
Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile
Thanks for the tips and info Dave...you clearly know a lot more about this than
I do!
You are right, everything is plastic. As far as I understand it, no matter
what I end up doing, I need to get the backing nut off, get the wet rotten
plywood off, and get the sender out. Yes, I concur
Thanks Joel! Yes, no extra holes is the priority here.
Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
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-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sender:
Hi all,
I need to replace the plywood backing plate and rebed my depth sounder as the
throughull has been leaking the past couple of seasons. It usually stops after
a few days once the plywood expands.
Is there any way to do this without destoying the depth sounder?
As a first step, I
I single hand a lot and prefer the slip on my port. I come in bow first so I
pull towards the slip when i go into reverse to stop the boat (as I'm returning
to the slip.) It is a slight hassle departing, but i just give the stern a bit
of a push off as I step aboard.
I also made sure that i
I don't mean to be flippant, but maybe it is just because it is getting colder.
It certainly takes longer to get diesels started out here in Ontario in the
fall.
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile
Hi Charlie,
Every week a different boat is assigned RC duty...they just need to provide a
suitable person whether they be from the boat crew or not. You can of course
vary this...2 boats assigned RC if you need 2 people, etc. You can't sign up
for racing unless you are prepared to accept
I believe the confusion here is because in the COLREGS the "steaming light" is
referred to as a masthead light. On most sailboats it is not at the top of
the mast. People confuse "masthead" with the all around anchor light.
If you are under power (sails up or not) you must display the
Excellent suggestion!
Thanks
Mike
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-Original Message-
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List
Sender: "CnC-List"
Interesting discussion...i changed out my extinguishers this summer because
they were 15 years old.
Does anyone know how to properly dispose of old extinguishers that are still
charged??
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil
I race wednesdays! But on a J24..does that count??
When i was racing vice-commodore i tried to change it to Mondays to help my
travel schedule, but no one would go for it.
Mike
Atacama 33 mkii.
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal
I sewed dogbones for my first and second reefs a few weeks ago...i LOVE them!
My tack would inevitably come off the reef hook when I was hooking directly
onto the sail grommet.
Mike
Atacama 33ii.
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal
Yes, there is sales tax between private owners on boat sales in Canada. I
found this out recently. I bought my boat in Ontario three years ago from a
private individual...sales tax didn't even enter into my head. Then I
dutifully registered the change of ownership with the federal government.
Just wrote my exam on the colregs! No you cannot use tricolour at the top of
mast AND running lights. You can have running lights with an all round red over
an all round green on the mast, but I have to say that I have never actually
seen this.
Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry
Hi Doug,
I have same boat and same engine. Cooling water intake through-hull valve
access is via starboard cockpit locker. I have a start button and a stop cable.
If you can't find things, just trace back from the engine.
Cheers,
Mike
Atacama 33ii
Toronto (but now in Port Hardy about to
Does anyone have an opinion or experience with Dramamine vs Scopolamine?? If
one takes Dramamine, should it be taken for 1-2 days before heading out?
I've used Scopolamine before and it was moderately effective, but i'll be going
on a long rough passage on the outside of of Vancouver Island
Yup! I did. Mine stopped after about 3 days as the wood expanded. Keep your
bilge pump on automatic and keep an eye on it.
It that doesn't work...I had a couple of suggestions from the list. Tighten the
nut or else back it off a bit (water will pour in) and get some teflon tape
around it and
I headed down the the boat yesterday armed with wrenches to try tightening the
through-hull and, if that failed, teflon to follow John's suggestion of
backing off the nut and getting some teflon under there. I met the yard
mechanic at the boat as I figured it would be good to have a second
It is existing. I was a bit nervous to try that today...will attempt early this
week. I have a plug handy...
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-Original Message-
From: Paul Fountain
Unfortunately my leak seems to be between the hull and the throughhull.
The water in Lake Ontario is a bit nippy for me to take a splash and my marina
crane is pretty busy with launches these days.
Still thinking...
Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé
Launch was Friday, went smoothly. Yesterday when I came down I noticed water in
the bilge and traced it to a leaking depth transducer throughhull.
Is there a fix for this to get me through the season?
Thanks,
Mike
Atacama. 33mkii
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell
While we are on the topic of preventers, my understanding of the proper way to
rig one is as follows;
A big bowline around the boom, led up to a block as far forward as possible,
the back to a winch in the cockpit.
My confusion is about the purpose of a preventer:
1. is it to hold the boom
leech of the sail, you may need to
readjust the halyard, but that's boat dependant and crew savvy
Good luck,
Ron
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 9:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.
Hi Ron,
You refer to a "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle. I think this
is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or how do I make one?
For the past two years i've just been trying to hook the cringle onto the
reefing hook on the boom...this doesn't work very
I'm a fan of keeping the boat pretty flat, so I usually reef my 33 at about
13kn if i know its blowing that before I head out.
If i'm already out, i'll wait until around 15 kn before doing the main but will
usually furl in the genoa a bit before that.
The wind on Lake Ontario is rarely steady,
While we are on mixing elbows, I plan on replacing mine this spring on my
Yammar 2GM20F. I am a bit worried about making a mess of this job as it looks
like the old one has never been touched and is firmly rusted in place. Any tips
for removing it?
Also, when I go to install the new one
Thanks all!! Always a good call to double check with this list.
I'll stick with separate sheets.
Mike
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___
Email
The Toronto Boat show is approaching and i'm putting together my list. My jib
sheets have seen better days so I need to replace them.
Am thinking of going with a single sheet with a ring hitch at the clew because
my bowlines tend to snag on the baby stay. Is there any reason NOT to do this??
I have a 33mkii with that engine. I find it on occasion slightly underpowered,
but it wouldn't change my decision to buy the boat.
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de
Eyestrap! Yes that's what i rivetted on - thanks! :)
I did it just the way you describe and have never been anxious about it when
reefed.
Mike
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Tis the season...i just replaced my leaking pressure relief valve too!! (and
the element and anode!).
I also noticed that the valve didn't have a drain hose on it, so it was
dripping around the base of the tankand that provides the explanation for
the shock that I received when I changed
What strikes me is that you stated that the alarm "stayed" on after you started
the engine following your half hour of sailing. My experience with cooling
problems (either with the fresh water or the internal recirculating cooling) is
that is usually takes a few to several minutes for the
Nick did the work on my 33 mkii. The PO had a hard grounding and that's really
where the mast step becomes a problem. Sooner or later most of us seem to run
aground, so i'd recommend the step re-inforcement.
Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell
I saw a Mirage 27 the other day called "The Whole Nine Yards"
Mike
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___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To
I'm not aware of a site, but Bristol Marine in Port Credit, ON has done quite a
few of these repairs.
Mike
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___
I bought a 33 mkii 3 years ago (my first boat!)
The main issue was the mast step...it needs to be re-inforced. One of the POs
had a hard grounding and the weak mast step was a problem. I had part of the
keel stub re-built and the mast step done at Bristol Marine last winter.
The engine access
I had my jacket inflate this summer. I was helming a J24 in a race on a very
light air day and was slouched against the lifeline in a state of sheer
boredom...when (i'm sure you see this coming) the shackle gave way and suddenly
i was in the water.
The jacket inflated like it was supposed to
Another thing to check is the belt tension on your cooling water pump. I
started my engine last summer and noticed less than usual water coming out with
the exhaust...it was just a matter of tightening up the belt.
Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the
I'm working my way down my project list and finally got to my hot water tank.
The PO just told me that it didn't work. I was getting 120V at the heating
element so I checked the element and it was fried.
I installed a new element and turned it on for a test. Got hot water after
about 10
Glad to hear it Francois. I ordered a switch and will hopefully have it by next
week. In the meantime, this weekend I will take the advice of the others and
will clean all connectors, check engine ground, and solenoid this weekend.
Cheers,
Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the
I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my
Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts
right up.
What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at
the push button switch or at the solenoid?
overhaul
I have an access port under the helm seat to give access to ours.
Paul. :)
On Jul 12, 2015, at 3:39 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Not much wind here in Toronto today so thought it would be a good day to
overhaul the pedestal on my 33' mkii. First
Not much wind here in Toronto today so thought it would be a good day to
overhaul the pedestal on my 33' mkii. First step of course is to loosen
steering cables and chain so that I can lift the chain off the sprocket. I
don't know how big other C+C 33 owners are, but there doesn't seem to
Thanks guys! The complete hose kit sounds like the right solution for me. I had
noticed that most of the hoses seem worse for wear.
As with most of my boat projects...one thing seeems to lead to another.
Cheers,
Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans
Hi all,
The bearings were starting to go on my freshwater coolant recirculating pump. I
have a Yanmar 2GM20F. I decided to tackle the job myself and yesterday I
removed the old pump. While disconnecting the hoses, I noticed that most of
them also need replacing.
Can anyone tell me what type
You could try calling Outer Harbour Marina.
Mike
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-Original Message-
From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sender: CnC-List
Hi Derek,
I would concur with the others that have suggested a survey. On my 33, the
mast had pushed the cabin sole down a lot and I had a small leak in my bilge.
I kept futzing around with things myself until I had a proper survey done this
past fall. The surveyor sent me straight to
I just bought that model at the Toronto Boat Show...for a lot more than $125!!
Getting the mmsi from industry canada was easy. I obviously haven't used it
yet but have gone though the manual and like all the features.
Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Yes, those two innocent little hooks counter the upward pull of the halyards so
that there is no net force lifting up on the deck! I just realized that myself
this year.
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
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I paid about $1,200 in materials for a holly+teak sole for my 33' last summer.
A friend and I did the work (actually he did most of it). I was told that the
cost would be about $5,000 if I hired someone.
So your materials cost seems a bit low and labour seems a bit high. $5 - $6k
might be
That's exactly why I got my boat checked by a surveyor with lots of CnC
experience once I realized fixing my bilge leak wasn't just a matter of
tightening the keel bolts. He figured that the starboard side of the keel stub
had delaminated from the internal filler.
Mike
Atacama CnC 33 Mk ii
I have to agree. I had a small leak in my bilge two summers ago that strangely
enough didn't go away by itself and got worse this past summer. The PO had told
me about a hard grounding.
I got it surveyed this fall after haul-out by a surveyor with lots of CC
experience. Turns out I have
Hi Charlie,
I don't know all the details, but assuming you had rights to head up the other
boat (the middle one) and you actually attempted to, then what happens between
the middle boat and other boats above her is irrelevant. Your protest is valid.
As far as I know, the middle boat cannot
Hi Tom,
I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take forever to
switch off. It finally fried itself after a season. When I installed my new
one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge like you did), I had
the same problem! But then I played with the angle
. My line
from the pump to the back of the boat was about 15 feet long.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
CC 44
Portland, Or
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Hi Tom,
I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take
forever
A couple of the screws are loose on my companionway hood, so I am planning on
removing it and giving it a good cleaning (and cleaning the gunk underneath it).
What type of sealant should i put into the screwholes when I put it back on?
4200? Silicon? Any advice would be appreciated.
There
I'd'like to have a look inside my pedestal because the shaft that my wheel is
mounted on slides in and out about 1/2 which is a bit disconcerting.
I have a 1986 CC 33' mk2 with an Edson pedestal. The compass is mounted on a
circular wooden plate. The wood is mounted on a cylinder that has the
Hi Charlie,
I have an '86 33 Mark II. I happen to have my table bolts handy as i haven't
put in the the table yet...I like the extra space, but will put it in before i
do a trip.
My table bolts are 3 3/4 long, with hex 3/4 head, the actual bolt diameter is
3/8.
Cheers,
Mike
Atacama,
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