Jim,
I've never had the issues to know, but have you looked here?
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/PTO/Drake_PTO.htm
Discusses binding PTO gears from someone oiling the nylon gear. It kind of
looks like you have that going in your photos (brown water mark on your nylon
gear).
73,
Ron
Hi Ron:
Yes, I’ve been to your site (excellent site BTW) and cleaned out the gunked up
grease. The thing was a mess when I got it, with grease everywhere including
the nylon gears and in between the dial plates. You’re looking at the “after”
photos. Everything is nice and smooth now,
Jim,
After re-reading your email I do believe your problem is with the
anti-backlash gear/bushing shown in your pictures 6 and 7 as you suspected. The
two anti-backlash gears are suppose to be tight and not easily move on the
brass bushing. I think you could probably tighten them up by
Gary:
You nailed it! Both gears move freely, except for the slight binding I
mentioned in my original e-mail. I’ll have a go at securing the outer gear to
the bushing. Now that you’ve described how it should work I’m confident that
it will solve my problem. My concern is whether or not
I purchased a nice TR4 with NB for a fellow and he also tossed in two other
complete non-working TR4's and an extra AC-4 and a power supply made from a
Heathkit power supply and an extra RV-4. One of the non-working radios has had
the chassis butchered where someone drilled a hole in the side
Ron -
Too bad you didn't send that crystal from John to ICM first! They could
characterize it and add it to the database.
Perhaps John has another one?? :-)
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL
Ron Ries wrote:
Have now purchased and installed two new crystals, one at 32 pf and one at 20
It has been a long time (pronounced 3 DECADES ) since I did the mod on my TR7
as well. I do remember that I did a bit more looking and found that there is a
male pin sticking up from the motherboard and is the transmit inhibit line
(going to Q9001 as I recall). So I put a piece of
Gary: I decided that I couldn’t wait until the end of the week to try the fix,
so I worked on it during lunch. I soldered the aft gear to the bushing as you
had suggested. All fixed, works like new. Thanx again for your trouble and
advice.
Ron: Although the website you pointed me to
Well, many thanks to all for helpful references. I was directed to eBay and
purchased apparently NOS for about $1.60 each. I will let all know the
results. If this is a fix, will be looking to complete the UV# with a 220
MHz module if available. Also, the 440 receives but no output. So, still
I suspect the noise blanker in my R-4C is not working. How can I
definitively test it?
73 de W3NU
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On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:15:10 -0700, Jim Pruitt wrote:
It has been a long time (pronounced 3 DECADES ) since I did the mod on my TR7
as well. I do remember that I did a bit more looking and found that there is
a male pin sticking up from the motherboard and is the transmit inhibit line
(going
On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 23:27:24 -0400, Charles Ring wrote:
I suspect the noise blanker in my R-4C is not working. How can I
definitively test it?
I have tested noise blankers in the past by wiring up a relay to a variable
power supply through one of it's own normally closed contacts to make it
Hello All,
Thanks for the several comments received re this problem (?).
To VK2IFT: That's the easiest approach and I shall probably do as you suggest.
To WA8ULW: The 'just under 6V' can be taken as 6V. The Manual does call for
6.3V. Do not know, at this stage, how far 'out of spec' the HV is.
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