Good evening,
I had a very busy day helping license and upgrade a number of
amateurs. I enjoy working as a VE and get a kick out of copying CW at 5
wpm. T EE EEEEE EEE ETETTE ETE ... and so forth. It
takes a little while but it comes back to me :) Then we went in search
yea that ssb board is really tight and a things that you might think
touching won't cause a problem do.
after checking every solder joint with a magnifying glass I start checking
clearances of all the parts and made sure a piece of heavy paper could go
between every thing than reinstalled the ssb a
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Now my question: I have a very loud pop when using CW with the Henry
Amp,I adjusted the T-R setting and for the most part takes it out,but I
like T-R setting to be 0.00 is there another way to remove this Pop
I had a Henry ss-750 and it has a pretty slow t/r rel
Thanks one more time. Didn't take long to cure a short in that tight area by
RFC2 on the SSB board - as Jim Younce K4ZM mentioned was a trouble area for
him. SSB works fb now and what a pleasure. Thanks to you all my day's building
ended in successful install of another module!
73 Tim NZ7C
I am building the KPA 100. I have just tried the resistance measurements on
page 41 of the Alignment and Installation.
Sounds like you are maybe running into the photoelectric effect on
the PA transistors too. Do you have a strong light on the workbench?
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html
Thanks folks -
I love this reflector!! Thanks to Don, David, Gary, and many others who
quickly told me how to jumper the RF board - which I did. The K2 still works
perfectly in cw mode - to my immense pleasure and relief. That just leaves the
SSB board to trouble shoot - a far less daunting
On Sun, 2005-06-02 at 13:31 +1300, ZL1TW wrote:
> I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
> for a while. I removed the top
> and side panels, then countersunk the screw holes. I then re-installed them
> using 4-40 flathead screws that sit flush with the case.
N
Tim:
Install a scrap resistor lead or piece of solid hookup wire from pin 1 to
pin 3 on J9 and J10 and install a 103 Cap from pin 7 to pin 12 of J 11 and
you will be back to what you had before... I would bet you have a problem on
the SSB board. I had this on one SSB generator and it was eith
Tim,
Troubleshooting the basic K2 is even easier that all that - just put a
jumper from pins 1 to 3 on J9 and J10 and your receive path should be
restored. If you want to restore the transmit path you will have to insert
a .001 uF capacitor into pins 7 and 12 of J11.
My guess is that you will fi
My objection to the round heads is that they pick up junk in the
slots, and that they scratch things next to the K2. One of these
days, I'll do the countersink thing myself. I've got the extended
side panels on one of my K2's, whoch are countersunk, and it does make
just a bit more "sociable".
7
Ron ZL1TW wrote:
I just made an alteration to my K2/100 ... I removed the top
and side panels, then countersunk the screw holes. I then re-installed them
using 4-40 flathead screws that sit flush with the case.
In my humble opinion it looks heaps better, rather than having "warts"
sticking
I finished my KFL1-4 board tonight. All resistance check seem okay.
Started to peak the filters.I use my other rig at low power into a dummy
load for the signal.
30 meters peaked up fine. Signal was very close to where it was
supposed to be.
40 meters couldn't even find a signal. Went to nex
Hi all,
I don't remember if I read this or I heard it from Wayne years ago during
the prototyping of the K2, but I remember Wayne stating that they put quite
a lot of thought into the "style" of the K2 case and front. As I recall
Wayne said he liked the big screws because it looked "retro". I t
Hello all -
My basic K2 #4667 was operating on cw EXTREMELY well (audio outstanding
by the way compared to two prior K2's).
However, today I finished and installed the SSB board. W2-W3and C167
were removed from the RF board per instructions. According to the menu
the SSB board is communicatin
Shadows of Doug Hendricks
For those of you who have not been following the Elecraft Reflector for more
than 5 years now, Doug's major objection to the K2 was the lack of
countersunk screws.
You note on this subject brought a smile of nostalgia to my face - apologies
to those who may not understa
> I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
> for a while. I removed the top and side panels, then countersunk the
> screw holes. ... I have to wonder why Elecraft used flathead screws
> on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the K2?
Having just comple
Sounds interesting Ron.
Could you post some pics somewhere so we could have a look?
Tony W7GO
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http
Hi
I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
for a while. I removed the top
and side panels, then countersunk the screw holes. I then re-installed them
using 4-40 flathead screws that sit flush with the case.
In my humble opinion it looks heaps better, rather than
I've uploaded a new version (1.1) of the KRC2 download utility to the
Elecraft web page. This version includes an option to disable the
requirement for KRC2 ACK's on each download line. It may solve the
download problem owners of earlier KRC2s were seeing.
See http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual
Hello,
Again, thanks for all the responses. After receiving my S16 switch and
installing it, the message no longer appears. I did all the checks and
tests that you all suggested and there were no problems. Looks like the
missing switch was the problem.
Thanks,
Chris KC9GSV
On Feb 3, 2005
I am building the KPA 100. I have just tried the resistance measurements on
page 41 of the Alignment and Installation. The resistance measurements for
the Q1 and Q2 collectors will flash 11 or 12K ohms then jump down to -6.5K
ohms and then count up to -3.5K and then stabilize. When I first chec
Thanks to all who replied to my query re my K2 power readings. You are
great people.
73
Slater VE5OA
SN 4519
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub,
Finally got my K1 on the air today. First contact with NJ2OM working FYBO (I
didn't feel guilty with my 72 degree exchanges against his 41F), then half a
dozen other FYBO'ers and mobiles on the County Hunter's CW Net (14.0565). I
always wondered what the big deal was with Elecraft rigs. Now I know.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This is why it is so inviting to spend $150 on the LDG Z-100 or $200 on the
LDG AT-100. When I then choose to upgrade, I will only have to spend the $359
and I can continue to use the external tuner.
Any more suggestions?
Ci Jones
WU7R
FISTS 10789
NAQCC 306
Hi Ci
When my K2 was new, quite a while before the ATU kit became available,
I operated with the original LDG QRP autotuner and it worked just fine.
You should have no trouble with your autotuners, as long as they are happy
with about 3 watts input during tuning.
73, Bob N6WG
-- Origin
Slater,
You likely do not have a problem. Take away the antenna, in-line SWR meter,
and the ATU - and substitute a good 50 ohm dummy load. Be certain it is 50
ohms resistive and has no capacitive or inductive component at the frequency
you want to do your testing (you can measure it with an ante
Ci,
Yes, there is another alternative.
There are a few methods of bringing the proper signals out of the K2 to use
the KAT100 - in fact these are the same signals that are needed for remoting
the KPA100. So you could use the same techniques as folks have used for
remoting the KPA100 without insta
Thanks to all who responded. My delemma is that if I buy the KAT 100 for use
with my K-2, I would also have to purchase either the 100 watt amp (KPA100)
for $359 (which I evenutally plan to do) or I have to have KIO2 for $89 to use
with my K-2.
So my options with Elecraft tuners are (1) to
Slater, VE5OA wrote:
I have noticed an irregularity on my K2 output.
When setting the power level a 2 watts, and then using the ATU I get a
reading on my SWR/power meter in the line of 4 watts. Setting power
on the K2 to 3 watts, I get 4 watts on the in line meter. I thought the
meter might
In a message dated 05/02/05 17:50:03 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
I have noticed an irregularity on my K2 output.
When setting the power level a 2 watts, and then using the ATU I get a
reading on my SWR/power meter in the line of 4 watts. Setting power
on the K2 to 3 wa
I have noticed an irregularity on my K2 output.
When setting the power level a 2 watts, and then using the ATU I get a
reading on my SWR/power meter in the line of 4 watts. Setting power
on the K2 to 3 watts, I get 4 watts on the in line meter. I thought the
meter might be faulty, so replace
I am considering using an LDG AT-100Pro or LDG Z-100 tuner with my K-2. My
reasoning is that I haven't upgraded to 100 watts yet, but I need a tuner now.
Also, I operate CW almost exclusively, what other K-2 options would folks
suggest. Any advice and suggestions will be appreciated.
Ci Jo
Hello Rolf,
>
> Another topic. My headset is Heil Pro Set plus, normal version (not Icom
> version). Could it be used with K2?
>
I have always used a Heil Pro-Set plus, normal version, without any
modification made to the K2. Get full 100W PEP out on all bands, speaking in
normal voice, and often
Rolf:
On the other hand, you are spending lots of money on the radio, possibly
over $1500 depending on the accessories you end up buying. Plus
you'll be investing several weeks of your time in the project. Earlier
this week, there were several notes about a grounded tip soldering
station
On Sat, February 5, 2005 10:05, Rolf Moberg, OH6KXL said:
> How you folks have managed with no-ESD-soldering stations?
Hello, Rolf, nice to see you here too! 8-)
I built my KX1 with a no-ESD Weller (can't remember model no.) on a wooden
table covered with a slightly damp flat sponge (sorry, fla
Hello,
I am looking for a good tranceiver. It seems K2/100 could be good
solution. I have some questions. My soldering station is Weller WHS 40.
It's the cheapest one temperature controlled soldering iron from Weller.
It is not ESD-solder.
My plan is to use ESD-carpet on the table, connect m
36 matches
Mail list logo
