Since the KPA500 has its own linear supply, you probably don't need much
more than 20 amp capability. I have used an Astron RS-20 for the past 35
years but I would probably go for the RS-35 or RS-50 if I was getting
another one.
73, Bob N7XY
On 7/20/16 5:57 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
I am
Mike,
You technically don't have to move the filters in the KRX3, but it just
makes more sense to me to have them match.
Yes, if you do not have the K144XV in your K3, then there is no real
sense in installing the 13kHz filter (unless you want to do AM transmit
with that filter).
73,
Don
Aren’t you supposed to have the filters in the sub receiver in the same slot as
the main receiver? I’m not saying that all filters in the main have to be in
the sub, but any that are the same, shouldn’t they be in the sane slot?
…bc nr4c
> On Jul 20, 2016, at 8:15 PM, Don Wilhelm
I use my K3DVR a lot. It is useful for contests as well as day-to-day DXing,
Who enjoys calling “CQ CQ” for hours or, repeating your call when trying to
break tha pileup on K1N, etc?
Get it.
…bill nr4c
> On Jul 20, 2016, at 6:29 PM, Ian - Ham wrote:
>
> All,
>
>
>
Ron ()
I have put a link to my website to access a schematic for a simple transistor
switching interface for the KX2 and KX3. It allows use of standard KUSB cable
to provide CW, PTT and CAT control of the radio. Looks just like a K3 to n1mm.
Http://nr4c.net and use the Projects Tab for some
Okay Don, just ti make sure I understand about the filters. I currently have
three matched filters in both the main and subreceiver. I would insert the
FM filter in FL1 of the main and slide the other three down. Then I would
need to leave the FL1 blank on the subreceiver and slide the three
I am looking for recommendations for a linear power supply to power my shack.
Right this minute I need one just for my K3s and P3, but at some point will be
adding a KPA500, KAT500, dual monitors, etc. Also, looking at building a dummy
battery to run my laptop off the shack supply (11.1VDC, so
Thanks, Don. It was cockpit error. Hopefully I haven’t burned anything up. I
had the KX3 connected to ANT 1 and the antenna selector switch on RF IN. Yep,
I’m feeling pretty small right now.
73,
Joel - W4JBB
> On Jul 20, 2016, at 19:52, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
Joel,
If you have the KXAT100 in your KXPA100 then, you should set the KXAT100
to AUTO while you "train" the ATU. Move the VFO in 50kHz increments and
do a TUNE. Do that for all bands of interest and each antenna of interest.
Then put the KXATU into MAN mode and it will recall the settings
84' with 17' counterpoise = W3EDP, not an oddball thingy!
Bill af4b
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 20, 2016, at 1:56 PM, Detrick Merz wrote:
>
> Results are in!
>
> Test #1: dummy load connected directly to the antenna analyzer
> Result: 1:1 SWR
>
> Test #2: dummy to
I am not completely understanding the tuning performed using the KX3 with the
KXPA100.
First, I’m not even completely sure which mode I should be in: Byp, Man, or
Auto. I have three antennas - one is a vertical which is resonant on 40 - 10
except for 17 and 12 m. I have an OCF that is resonant
Mike,
Not a big problem, but you do have some mechanical work to do.
Remove the 2 meter option and the KRX3.
That will expose the filters for the main receiver.
The 13kHz filter should go into the FL1 slot - that means you may have
to move and reconfigure all the other filters installed in
Thanks Don, I talked with Howard at Elecraft today about the radio. He
thinks there might be a memory problem and the new firmware that is
address-ably larger is causing the problem. They would have to see the
radio to verify this. If this is the case then he would recommend updating
the DSP board
Mike,
Since you moved the filters in the KRX3, you may want to go into the
CONFIG menu and tell it which filters for the KRX3 are installed and in
which slots.
73,
Do W3FPR
On 7/19/2016 8:06 PM, Mike Murray wrote:
After removing one filter from my subRx and moving the remaining filter
Ian,
I agree! I have two K3 with KDVRs and two without. But All four of my K3
are using external Microham Microkeyers II because the internal KDVK is not
responsive enough for high rate contesting.
I would love for this to be address by Elecraft so the investment can be
used every day and not
Yep... I don't have any delay at all at the beginning OR end... Just
a matter of timing the REC button pushes.
__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389
On 7/20/2016 6:17 PM, Rick Prather wrote:
> Ian,
>
> If you get good at making the recording you can have
Ian:
I agree with the observations about the delay times when using the
KDVR3. If you're a S, 1 QSO/hr kind of operator, then it's probably
not a big deal. At 200+ Qs/hr, the delays are noticeable (and
aggravating). On March 11th of this year, I sent a feature request to
the reflector asking for
In a message dated 7/20/2016 3:24:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net writes:
[This e-mail contains a MIME (Multipurpose Internet Mail Extensions) file.
The file was specially formatted to be sent over the Internet. For more
information on opening the
Matthew,
You should not have to do incremental firmware updates.
Keep the 2.19 firmware files "just in case", but delete the latest
firmware files from the folder where you have the firmware stored on
your computer in case the copies you have are corrupt.
Open K3 Utility (make sure it is the
Kevin,
I will be interested in anything you find. I have a RS-50M and I am not
aware of any noise as you describe. It may be my hearing.
I do have a line isolator in-line left there from the days when I had a
G5RV. That is the only time I have known of RFI. It was pretty bad.
Dick, n0ce
Ian,
If you get good at making the recording you can have virtually no delay at
either the beginning or end of the message.
Rick
K6LE
On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 3:29 PM, Ian - Ham wrote:
> All,
>
>
>
> After competing somewhat competitively in the Georgia QSO Party the last
The K3 transceiver for sale is Serial Number 06517 which was purchased in May,
2012.
It includes the following options:
-- 100 watt amplifier, internal
-- 2.8 kHz, 8-pole filter
-- KXV3A, RX Antenna, IF Out and Transverter Interface (needed if you add the
P3 display)
-- Elecraft PR 6-10
Thanks Grant. I thought there'd be a little more inside for charging the
battery. I did a quick look for schematics on Google but didn't find
anything.
Kev
On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 6:12 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN
wrote:
> The PWRgate is just basically Schottky steering diodes
Elecraft K1 QRP HF Transceiver
- K1 Radio
- 4 band board installed in radio (radio covers 40m, 30m, 20m, 17m)
- Additional 2 band board (80m, 15m)
- KAT1 Antenna Tuner
- KNB1 Noise Blanker
- Internal Battery Adapter
- LCD Backlight
- Tilt Stand
See this URL for pictures:
Elecraft KX1 QRP HF Transceiver
- KX1 Radio (covers 20m and 40m)
- KXB3080 band board (covers 30m/80m)
- KXAT1 Antenna Tuner
- Pelican Case
See this URL for pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/B4uCz
I built this radio and have used it portable. It works as it should. The
radio with options
All,
After competing somewhat competitively in the Georgia QSO Party the last few
years, and participating as one of the hunted 13 Colonies special event
stations in Georgia for the last couple of years, I find myself ready to add
a voice keyer to my shack set up. To that end, and in order to
We are at 14 posts on Deoxit(tm) and this topic has been pretty much beaten to
death ;-)
Let's close the thread at this time in the interest of reducing email overload
for others.
73,
Eric
Mooderator
/elecraft.com/
On 7/19/2016 8:12 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Quite so. I used deoxit
The PWRgate is just basically Schottky steering diodes used to direct power
from one terminal to another. It does not generate noise …
Grant NQ5T
> I was (and maybe still am) a little skeptical about …. the PWRgate which I
> think is just the switching
> portion of a switching power supply?
A follow-up to the situation.
I purchased a PWRgate PG40S. On one side I have a marine battery. On the
other side I've got an Alinco DM-330MVT. In the middle is the KX3 and the
Flex. Only one has an antenna at any time.
I added a line isolator right below the BALUN of the OCF and another one
Renze,
Try turning the MONitor setting up. Hold the AF Gain pot in and turn it
- you will see the setting displayed in VFO B area.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/20/2016 4:33 PM, Renze ve6dc wrote:
At last SeaPac I bought a KX3.
It works well and I also practise my CW sending with it.
I also try
Hi everyone,
At last SeaPac I bought a KX3.
It works well and I also practise my CW sending with it.
I also try all the different settings to get to know the KX3 better.
I think I played a little too much because since a few days the CW sending
does not produce a CW tone anymore but a
Jan,
In the "good old days", you could check a serial port by connecting pin
2 to pin3 at the end of the serial cable. Set the port to software
handshaking (or else connect the control pins together in a similar
manner-I don't recall the pin numbers). Then run a dumb terminal
program. What
No …. not close. You can talk to Rob about his tests, but that isn’t what he
does. And any sensors between the signal generator and the radio (or your
antenna and the radio) aren’t going to materially change anything about the
radios performance.
How many tenths of a dB are you concerned
I don't want to start a flurry of emails on this so perhaps if
you could respond privately, it will keep the list traffic down.
I began my question-subject with a curiosity on how the professional
evaluators test & report on modern transceiver performance such as
sensitivity, etc. At the
William,
It is beginning to look like either the tuner or the antenna is the problem.
Don't overlook the possibility that something has come loose or shorted
in your antenna. Baluns can go bad, especially if they get moisture inside.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/20/2016 3:18 PM,
Little extra
Al tests are made on 3604. When I pick diver end bands it gives me diver end
outcome so 3 band are really 1.0. - 1 some 1.3 - 1 so its also depending on
the band,
I have a G5RV I am curious what happens without a tuner
Going to test that later, wife is waiting and have to be the man
PS i have the shield update.
-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens
will...@zendamateur.nl
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 21:18
Aan: donw...@embarqmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 automatic tuner
Ok Don
Ok Don and Knut,
Its getting better :-)
I tryed a antenne analyzer, gives me the same as my K2, so I think K2 is
fine.
The AT-100 ( just bought it second hand, has two antenna connectors wich I
can switch. Put a dummy on the other port then switched an tune the dummy 20
1.0 - 1 so looks ok
Did
Knut and all,
I do agree with that *and* if the band is 40 meters *and* if the KPA100
is not the latest design T/R switch it is entirely possible that there
could be a spurious response above the 40 meter band during the time it
takes to do the antenna tuning - this may cause the ATU to tune
Results are in!
Test #1: dummy load connected directly to the antenna analyzer
Result: 1:1 SWR
Test #2: dummy to PL259 barrel to coax to antenna analyzer
Result: 1:1 SWR
The coax ain't bad.
The "odd ball thingy" is an 84' "random wire" with a 17' counterpoise. The
use of coax was an attempt to
Hi all,
I can think of one other *possible* explanation, although far fetched. If
the K2 transmitter has excessive harmonics or parasitics, this could happen.
The out of band energy is readily absorbed by the dummy load but not by the
tuned load presented by the LDG tuner. The antenna analyzer
William,
That indicates that either you have a bad coax between the K2 and the
tuner, or the tuner's SWR meter has a problem.
If you have an antenna analyzer, connect it to the same coax that you
connect to the K2 and see what it indicates.
It may be that the KPA100 wattmeter could stand
Hi Wes:
Currently the K-Pod LEDs work as described. Functionality is being added to
the K-Pod that, as a mere "scribe" I don't have yet but have been asked to
include tidbits such as the LEDs being programmable.
73, Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
When i just connect a 50 ohm dummy tot he K2 it says 20 1.0 - 1
So I think it is right calibrated :-)
Regards William
-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 19:50
Aan: will...@zendamateur.nl ;
William,
Thanks for that clarification. Connect the KPA100 to a good dummy load
and do the wattmeter alignment and calibration as indicated in the
KPA100 manual page 48 - see the SWR Bridge Null Adjustment and also the
Power Calibration sections.
You must do the bridge null before
Thanks Don fort he answer,
The display is ok
I just did not put every thing there
It says : 202.0 - 1
So I enderstand that as a swr of 2.0 ???
-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Verzonden: woensdag 20 juli 2016 19:27
Aan:
William,
Are you reading the K2 display correctly when you do a TUNE?
Normally the K2 displays the power on the left and the SWR on the right.
The power is normally 20 watts and the SWR will be shown as 2 digits
(1.0 through 9.9).
In other words, you will see something like "20 1.0".
If the
Elecraft K3/100 with KAT3A, 2.7kHz filter, 700Hz filter (INRAD), 400Hz
filter, PR6 preamp, KSYNTH3A upgrade. Elecraft P3 Panadapter with SVGA
and TXMON (2KW sensor). High Serial numbers (K3:86xx, P3:25xx). No
scratches, non-smoker. Package deal only, 7/20: PRICE REDUCED asking
$3500 for both,
Hi group,
Perhaps it's a silly question, but i don't understand something.
I have a K2 100 watt but I don't think any other set will make a deferens.
the set is connected to a tuner (AT-100Pro LDG) and it tunes as far as I can
see ok.
But now what I notice, when I tune the tuner tunes
Hi,
I have tried but been unsuccessful with getting wspr to work with my kx2.
I'm on the right com port (4) it's the only one I can see.
Tried the k3 and k2 from the wspr settings drop down menu, set the rate to the
same as radio 4800.
Has anyone got their kx2 working and if so could you let me
I have approx 35 firmware zips from 2.10 through 5.01. This isn't the
complete set; only the ones for which I was interested in upgrading some
feature on my K3. You can have them if you want but as far as I know
installing intermediate revisions is not required.
73,
Drew
AF2Z
On 07/20/16
Detrick (KI4STU) with his K1 and I with the KX3 took off work on Monday and
headed up to Dickey Ridge on Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park
(NP51). We were both on battery power. CW was the mode of choice. The
antennas were end-fed - Detrick's some odd-ball thingy and mine an LNR
I have looked through the K-POD manual and the programmers guide and find
nothing about programming the D1-D4 LEDs on the pod. Did I miss it? If not, how
do I do this? It would be handy to assign the lights to some functions!
Thanks!
73,
Ed K6CTA
Sent from my iPhone
Hi Jim,
On 7/19/2016 12:51 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
Remember that whether or not you hear more noise with the system running
will depend on how much OTHER noise there is in your neighborhood. Some
(many?) of us have background noise in the range of S8, others in the
range of S3. The difference is
I use some small yellow labels printed off a Brother P-Touch alongside
each button. Also use those labels on all the wires in my wireless
station here! ;-)
73 Dwight NS9I
On 7/20/2016 7:02 AM, Jeff Griffin wrote:
Thanks to all for the macro help. Like a good boy I found the time to read
Thanks to all for the macro help. Like a good boy I found the time to read
more slowly through the programmers reference and all is now well. Only
problem I have now is trying to remember what macro is associated with what
button, and is it tap or hold???
73 Jeff kb2m
I'm happily writing some
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