Break out the Dramamine.
Some years ago a very seasoned commercial sailor told me; "there's not a
man alive that under certain sea conditions, won't toss his cookies".
After a few trips, I too learned that to be true. I later inquired
about what to eat for breakfast? He said, "bananas,
Correct installation is usually the key. The line must be supported no
more than 12" from the connector and NEVER at any time by the connector,
even during installation. Also, line supports along all vertical and
horizontal runs is a must.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 1/23/2018 4:27 PM,
From experience, I'd say nearby lightning strikes would be the
culprit. I strongly urge everyone to use protection devices on all
coax and balanced lines at the point where the feed lines and rotor
lines enter the house. I prefer Polyphaser devices. Don't buy cheap
or ham fest bargain
This says the Line Gain on the K3 is too low. Or the PWR slider on the
WSJT right side is too low. Be sure in the F2 menu / Settings, the
Audio panel has the correct Audio IN and Audio OUT selected under
Soundcard. Should be USB CODEC.
Don's info is very correct and very complete.
That is a coax with a double shield except the shields are each insulated.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 16, 2018, at 3:09 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>
>> On 1/16/2018 12:53 PM, David Christ wrote:
>> Twinax under that name was a two conductor shielded coax
I've used some star quad cable in certain pro audio applications.
The braid shield type is necessary where flexibility is required however, just
as in coax, not all braid is the same. Some provides 85% shield (poor) while
others approach near 100% shielding (good). There is a difference in
For a reason Clay stated and that is not using the shield as a current
carrying conductor in audio, I use a 3 wire shielded cable for all my
mike applications, ham radio and professional. There are several good
brands, Alpha, Belden, and others. Also Heil has some cable which is
suitable
All of your questions will be answered in the K3S manual. It is easy to
read and easy to set up the radio.
1. There is the list of Rigs for the Elecraft K3/KX3 in the WSJT Radio
tab along with; Baud rate 38400, 8 bit, no stop, no handshake. PTT is
CAT. Mode is Data/Pkt, Split is Rig.
One thing I do is make a configuration backup using the Utility. I
think is saves this type of data. In any event, when I get things
messed up for some unknown reason {usually mine}, I just revert to the
backup and restore the radio. All is then well.
Usually do my backups for the radio
In the words of another highly regarded ham."what ever makes you
feel comfortable is always best". Personally I'm pleased with my
Vibroplex Iambic paddle. Don't remember what it cost, but are the
standard model, no chrome base just texture grey finish but with
upgraded jewel
I use a switch tapped air inductor with a variable C on one end. It is an L
network thus it is reversible and will match either Hi Z or Lo Z loads. This
always brings the load to within range the ATU in the radio can resolve a
match.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 9, 2018, at 3:48
I think this is what one looks like.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 1/9/2018 1:14 PM, IK4EWX wrote:
Scott, the hex key is a copy of a N2DAN on an hex base, produced by Bencher
after they bought the right of N2DAN paddle.
Sure it is a great key.
Vibroplex/Bencher now sell il for 324 $, I think this is
Darn autocorrect "balun"..not baling!
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 9, 2018, at 10:41 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX <rmcg...@blomand.net> wrote:
>
> Not only winding them wrong but if find more and more being used incorrectly.
> There is no one baling de
Not only winding them wrong but if find more and more being used incorrectly.
There is no one baling design that can be used in all applications. The more
common error is the internal balun contained in tuners.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 9, 2018, at 3:33 AM, Jim Brown
Usually most guitar players have an abundance of "stomp boxes". Of
course select one that doesn't have all the electronics and controls
included inside.
I checked with a local music and instrument store and asked about one
that was perhaps junk just to get the base. The fellow asked what
Have you been operating the K3S using CAT control from an application or
logging program? I've found when terminating some programs or the
computer or radio, during the shut down sequence, things change.
Otherwise, values are not as you normally use them or as you left them
the previous
Wellthat certainly spoiled some kids adventure. Wonder what
the officers wrote in their reports.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 1/7/2018 7:10 PM, Tom wrote:
Mystery Solved
Cops sent two cars, ...climbed the tree...
https://va2fsq.com/geocache/
Click on the pic...
73 Tom
-Original
Hope the surgery and recovery goes well. I doubt there is much RF
around the transmitter. At least there shouldn't be much if any.
However, the radiation from the antenna could be another story.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 1/4/2018 9:34 AM, KQ8M wrote:
I see the Pigremote is out of stock. Is
I like the tuning rates on my K3S just as it is. No changes
requested. And I have radios with variable tuning rates. They are an
annoyance in my usage.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 1/2/2018 6:23 PM, Merv Schweigert via Elecraft wrote:
Set the parameters and use the rate button, push go fast, push
I have the Astron SS30M which I find to be electrically quiet, excellent
regulation. The fan does cycle on and off from time to time and that is
noticeable. I power 3 radios, not at the same time, from this
supply. Originally it has the Pos and Neg connections where you insert
the wire
I prefer the 500Hz filter over more narrow ones. Less IMD on the RX signal.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 31, 2017, at 9:55 PM, K9MA wrote:
>
> I use similar settings for CW, with both filters. I haven't tried DSP
> bandwidth of 250 Hz with the 400 Hz
*From: *"Bob McGraw K4TAX" <rmcg...@blomand.net>
*To: *elecraft@mailman.qth.net
*Sent: *Sunday, December 31, 2017 2:27:01 PM
*Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] 80 meters
I run my power supply at 14.0 volts as measured at the supp
I run my power supply at 14.0 volts as measured at the supply. This is
done to accommodate the ~0.25 - ~0.35 volt drop in the DC line between
the supply and the radio when in transmit.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 12/30/2017 10:20 PM, Barthold Lichtenbelt via Elecraft wrote:
Make sure your power
You will need a duplexer on each ends of the coax. Preferably these
should be identical. One at the bottom end to combine the HF and VHF
signals to one coax and then on the top end to split the HF and VHF
signals to feed each respective antenna. Do be mindful that these
units are a bit
Shucks, our $1000 wireless professional microphones use the ribbon
technique to assist in removing the battery/batteries. Works great until
some apprentice audio tech forgets to put the ribbon UNDER the new
battery and then says "hey, what's this hanging out of the case?"
73
Bob, K4TAX
On
I did download and install V2.008.Zip. Scanned a couple of my
antennas. Seems to work OK as expected with my K3S.
Jim - Thanks for uploading the files and posting same.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 12/25/2017 10:09 PM, Jim N7US wrote:
Eric,
I believe you're thinking about K3_EZ, which was written
As I understand and was taught, the amplifier ALC came about as the
result of exciters having the ability to excessively overdrive the
linear amp. Case and point, the Collins 32S1 transmitter would produce
about 150 watts output when correctly tuned and loaded. That was about
twice the
As a rule ALC is not needed and is not recommended by Elecraft. The K3
power management system with the internal ALC is far superior to the
derived voltage from most all amps. And, unlike many radios which when
operated with reduced power, they do have a propensity to overshoot, the
K3
I get some noise via that K3S to USB computer connection. I applied a
ferrite bead, about 1" long, so that the cable actually makes a 1 turn
loop at each end. This is one of the snap on beads. Cured the
problem and a couple of others.
The 120 Hz signal somewhat indicates a "ground loop"
I would contact the owner and work with him to resolve the issue.
Likely something near the beacon antenna, such as a metal to metal joint
that is acting like a diode and generating spurious radiation. Or if
the signal is strong, it could be in your antenna system causing the issue.
73
My concern would be "does the S meter indicate correctly?"
Thus with 50 uV applied to the antenna input it should read S-9, and
with 0.78 uV applied it should read S-3, and with 5000 uV applied it
should read S-9 +40 dB. I've checked my K3S at these and other values
and I'm confident that
As to bandwidth for RX, since the transmit data is limited in bandwidth
to the SSB bandwidth, I see no need to have the receiver BW any wider
than the TX bandwidth. Also, the RX low end likely doesn't need to be
any lower than the TX bandwidth low end roll off. Of course if you have
SPLIT
I find that WSJT and the radio configured for DATA does not need any
macro to accomplish this feat.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 12/12/2017 10:58 PM, RIchard Williams via Elecraft wrote:
Before I beat my head against the wall (or re-invent the wheel); does someone
have a micro to setup the K3S (or K3)
Is that blank 3.5mm plug a tip-sleeve or a tip-ring sleeve? I believe
it should be a tip-ring-sleeve type.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 12/10/2017 11:58 AM, k...@arkayengravers.com wrote:
Hi Bill
There is no mic, just power, dummy load and blank 3.5 mm plug into the
key jack, as suggested by Don.
One other choice is any paint store or big box hardware store. They can
scan and custom mix the color with a high degree of accuracy. I've used
this approach on several occasions with good results.
I seem to recall that some paint specialty stores can make custom colors
in spray cans.
And
I'll most likely use a transverter. Base band will be 160M. Likely
will design and build my own.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 12/6/2017 4:50 PM, John Seboldt K0JD wrote:
Considering that all I hear down there is broadcast station birdies,
I'm guessing you're right. :-(
On 12/6/2017 16:47, Walter
And "hamfest" Bird slugs have been found to notoriously be in error.
{if they work at all} And remember, the Bird meter is a voltage
sensing instrument and any impedance deviation from the calibrated
value, normally 50 ohms, will introduce an error in the reading.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On
Got one of those "cranky electric fence" across the highway. The Noise
Blanker does a wonderful job of making it go away and not punch holes in
the signal at the same time. Thanks Elecraft!
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 12/2/2017 9:05 AM, Doug Person wrote:
That seems odd. I live in a community of
Don's points are very good. Add to that the resistance or load value
to which the power indicator was calibrated. Ideally it is 50 ohms R
+j0. However, being a voltage sensing circuit, any deviation from 50
ohms will impact the indication. Thus a 55 ohm load, showing a SWR of
1.1:1 can
Agreed. I've always said hams cut an antenna a bit long and then trim
it to get the lowest SWR at the desired frequency. This does not
necessarily make for a resonant antenna. My 75M antenna is resonant
at 3.8 MHz as determined using a Grid Dip Oscillator, but the impedance
is about 35
I find that Jim's thoughts and findings are similar to mine. SWR is
really not a good indication of how well an antenna works. One of my
coax lines has a 1:1 SWR from 160M through 6M. It doesn't receive well
nor transmit well. It' has a dummy load on the distant end.
Along the same line, I
Yes, I find this to be true as well. I also suggest one tweak the TEXT
DEC value to something other than AUTO. In my experience a value of 3
or 4 works well.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 11/30/2017 3:45 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
I get "reasonable" results. What I find is that the faster the sender,
of earlier versions. The K3 to K3S upgrade
path is a good example as is the history of the K2.
73 Bill AE6JV
On 11/29/17 at 6:38 AM, rmcg...@blomand.net (Bob McGraw K4TAX) wrote:
The Elecraft products have been solid for years. That speaks well of
the company and their values. Although no longer
This is one reason that I won't buy a JA brand radio. Seems that all of
the companies have a "new radio of the month" introduction, thus
deflating the value of the brands/models that hams bought in the past
few months. Hams in general a cheap, buy today and loose money on the
deal next
Either put a small 50 ohm load or leave it open. A short to ground may cause a
PA device failure.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 28, 2017, at 5:19 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
>
> Well if you accidentally transmit into it an open might be better than a
> short. Did
I have refrained from working ANY and ALL contests for several years.
For that and other reasons. I view contests today in the same class as
"road rage".
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 11/27/2017 2:39 PM, Fred Moore wrote:
This is exactly why I do not work CW contests anymore. CW contests have
I've had good to moderate success using the CW decoder. I find several
things to being the key to good results. First, usually the ATTN is
required on lower frequency bands, 160M - 40M, along with correct
adjustment of the RF Gain. Here you want to see that only CW elements
flash the
Kevin et al;
I agree, in fact I'd suppose as the CW speed the number of competent
operators decreases proportionally. Now I'm not saying "contest at 5
WPM" but certainly there are more that can copy 15 WPM than 50 WPM.
Just sayin'..so for us slow folks and old folks...QRS.
A relatively new ham asked for a copy or diagram of my portable antenna
design. Here's my response.
Welcome on being a new ham. As to the antenna design..well
there is no such thing in existence.
We usually camp in National parks and State parks. There's
One of my class mates signed up for the Navy right after graduation from
High School. He ended up being a radio operator. Has retold the story
many times of several ops sitting in front of a mill {typewriter} and
all were copying the same message from multiple receivers. The average
message
For that very reason, in our camper operation, I use a end fed antenna.
The matching network is a tapped coil and variable C forming an L
network. The circuit is in a small plastic box with a SO-239 on each
end, thus it is reversible. This allows a wide range of impedance
selections, plus
Don't put all switching power supplies in the same bucket. There are
very good ones that ARE QUIET, and then there are those that generate
noise. Just because it has the side or back posted with all types of
certifications basically says "they met specs at one time".
I have 3 Astron
On PL-259 connectors, make sure they are more than finger tight. I use a
pair of 4" Channel Lock pliers to snug mine after they are finger
tight. Today's PL-259's may look good but indeed with many of them
today, the plating is crap!. Same for coax cable and the way it gets
terminated
me EQ work to make
it sound normal.
73, mike va3mw
On Sat, Nov 11, 2017 at 5:32 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX <rmcg...@blomand.net
<mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>> wrote:
I use the Koss SB-40 which has a dynamic mike. No bias needed.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On
I use the Koss SB-40 which has a dynamic mike. No bias needed.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 11, 2017, at 3:51 PM, wrote:
>
> I was also confused by the posts that the CM500 works best with bias off.
> Thanks for explaining why this works only with
Where does the ICOM 706 series fall in the list? I recall hearing or reading
that the 706 series was and is their most popular radio.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 7, 2017, at 7:25 PM, Raymond Sills wrote:
>
> I say that the Yaesu FT-817 is king of the
The AH-4 inserts an internal 16 dB attenuator between the radio and the
tuner network during the tuning mode. After the match is resolved the
attenuator is switched out of the signal path. This assures the radio
will always see a near 50 ohm load.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 11/6/2017 7:52 PM, Ken
And that rule on disconnect everythingincludes not only
antennas, but any ground path to the outside world.
Remember, all lightning protection MUST be implemented outside of the
structure. AND all driven grounds MUST be bonded together on the
outside of the structure. This is per
Based on the serial number series of my K3S, I think the series' starts
with 1. Mine is an early one which is s/n 10163. I would be
surprised if they started with serial number 1.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 11/6/2017 9:58 AM, Graziano Roccon wrote:
WOW ! More than 10 thousand... incredible !
Congratulations! Great radio.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 4, 2017, at 7:33 PM, JT Croteau wrote:
>
> I know this doesn't mean much to anyone but me but I've wanted one for
> so long. Just received KX3 No. 10,028. Shaves and haircuts coming
> soon.
>
>
Digital modes lend themselves to lower power contacts successfully. It gets
messy for all when a station jumps in with excessive power. I'm seeing more
and more stations with poor to very poor quality signals. It takes very little
effort to be loud, but requires more effort and skill to be
A1500. He wanted to
> hook his P3 TX monitor input to the output of the KPA1500 amp, before the amp
> tuner. Or maybe I misunderstood the original post.
> Gordon - N1MGO
>
>> On 11/02/2017 02:20 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>> Most authorities I read and follow strong
Most authorities I read and follow strongly suggest one NOT use a tuner
between the radio and the amp.
This "old wives tail" goes back to the time many to most early tube type
grounded grid amps did not have a tuned input. Seems that hams today
choose to believe and practice old and outdated
I started in ham radio as a Novice in 1959. That required 5 WPM,
crystal control, 75 watts and only CW. Finally up to 13 WPM and a
General license and later to an Extra class license which I hold
today. Over the 58 years that are now behind me, I drifted away from
CW to a much easier
See the article "Transmit and Receive on Frequency" as published in
Sept. 2015 QST.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 10/31/2017 1:17 PM, Steve Kavanagh via Elecraft wrote:
I was wondering if anyone had tried doing the reference oscillator frequency
calibration for a K2 without the rather troublesome step
Don makes very good points here. Our hour built in 1979 is wired with
#12 for all outlets and lights. HOWEVER, the outlets and switches all
used the"backstab" connections. In my efforts to resolve an issue, I
found that several showed signs of heating. Therefore, I replaced every
outlet
I just avoid 20M. Problem solved. There's other bands which respond as
well with fine gentlemen operators, 17M and 30M as examples. If you've
not tried 60M, it is a wonderful relief from the vocabulary found on 40M.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 10/29/2017 1:47 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:
The ownership
Here is one reliable source for screw torque.
http://www.mgtd.ca/screw%20torque.htm
Now, to get the proper torque tools and use them.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 10/29/2017 8:34 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
It is possible that an explicit torque has never been calculated. It
is not a particularly hard
t the ones used, did show issues with the LED units
showing less than CFL's.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 10/24/2017 11:05 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
On 10/24/2017 5:55 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
When the transmitter was activated, the spikes of noise appeared.
With the transmitter off, the spikes
The only time I've noticed RFI issues from CFL or LED bulbs is when they
are being excited by RF. I've measured 3 or 4 different ones of
different brands and wattage ratings. This was done using a fixture
where by the bulb was mounted on a suitable surface in a socket with the
transmit
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 21, 2017, at 4:25 PM, Robert . wrote:
>
> on
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
As I understand a company can perform self certification. There seems to be no
independent audit system. Thus if the company says it meets specs, then it
meets specs.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 21, 2017, at 3:28 PM, Kevin Cozens wrote:
>
>> On 2017-10-21
causing this. I did carefully checkout some Walmart "100 W" LED lights
> before committing to them and they were fine.
>
>
> _
>
> 73,
>
> Jim - N4ST
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:ele
Makes me wonder if at all or how frequently production lots are
evaluated to determine if they are in FCC Part 15 compliance.
Otherwise, the approach "we evaluated one production lot, deemed it
passed" {a.k.a - I saw it work once, ship it} and then produced a
million or so afterwards
Thanks for the info and update.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 10/20/2017 3:20 PM, Mark E. Musick wrote:
John,
I was informed here on the reflector. I think it was Wayne that sent the
e-mail describing the mods. It is also on the website in the K3/K3S mods
section.
Here are the mods and I think this will
I will amplify Jim's and Wayne's and Lyle's comment regarding audio,
attenuation of a frequency or frequencies produces far superior results
to boosting a given frequency or frequencies. We have become
accustomed to "boost this" and "boost that" when in fact attenuate this
and attenuate
From the Fred Cady manual, page 33, Chapter 3 "Elecraft recommends
that you DO NOT turn your K3s off by turning off the external power
supply. Using the POWER switch allows the K3s to store variables such
as the current VFO frequencies in EEPROM before shutting down. This
might not happen
I would also comment with Knut, AB2TC, that one must always turn the
radio on and off with the power switch. This allows the internal
workings to store the data. If you use a "master station switch" thus
just dump the power supply then the radio may not store the data as
required. I
I suggest the Fred Cady book. He has all the info shown in charts and
tables and explains how things work and how things should be
configured. I view it is too much work to try to figure out via a
schematic what is done and needed.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 10/13/2017 11:17 AM, James Wilson
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku8Gyl0amRY
Max NG7M
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 4:05 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX <rmcg...@blomand.net>
wrote:
I agree with Jim, K9YC on the ALC points.
With older radios, namely tube types which required the exciter PA to be
loaded correctly to be linear, this power
There's nothing like doing the job correct, and Kent's installations
seem to indicate such.
I've used my Tentec 599 Eagle in my 2005 GMC Somona with a Hustler array
on the rear, power cables direct to the battery. No issues any band 80
- 6 meters. Same basic configuration and installation
Yeah, just remember..everything written and printed and found on
the web is not necessarily correct, nor accurate, and not of the current
methodology of doing things. I find that a lot of info borders on what
someone told their brother in law, that has a 3rd cousin who was a
neighbor
I agree with Jim, K9YC on the ALC points.
With older radios, namely tube types which required the exciter PA to be
loaded correctly to be linear, this power level would overdrive many
amplifiers. Hence ALC from the amp to the transceiver/transmitter was
required to control the drive power.
Frank: Are you referring to AC ground {green wire} or AC neutral
{white wire}?
In my installation the battery negative is connected via a green wire to
the trailer frame. The battery negative is also connected to the DC
distribution panel via a #4 black wire. From the DC to AC inverter,
For a 100 watt PEP HF radio or like VHF/UHF radio, the correct solution
is a 3 wire system. Positive - connected and fused at the battery and
radio ends, Negative - connected and fused at the battery and radio
ends, AND a 3rd wire connected to the firewall/frame {not battery
negative} of the
Although when using our travel trailer, I operate the radio from the 12V
battery system, I do have installed a 12 volt to 120 volt pure sine
wave inverter. This takes care of things such as computer, microwave,
TV's and of course the all required "hair dryer" and etc. The unit is
rated at
does not have a separate case/chassis connection
> (the K3/K3S rear mic jack *does not*) leave pin 1 disconnected
> (floating).
>
> 73,
>
> ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
>> On 10/5/2017 9:30 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>> No preamp required. Set the Mike gain via th
No transformer needed. The gain settings on page 55 of the manual are
sufficient for the SM 58. Just wire it as an unbalanced output. I
use both the rear or front MIC inputs with no issues and a variety of
different mikes.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 10/4/2017 12:18 PM, Stewart wrote:
OK
No preamp required. Set the Mike gain via the menu to high. Easy to
wire the mike XLR to an unbalanced circuit. Pin #1 & #3 to ground and
Pin #2 to MIC high. See page 55 of the manual [MIC SEL] for details.
If you close talk the mike it will be bottom end heavy. Typically no
closer than
TEST MSG - NEW SERVER INSTALLED
73
BOB K4TAX
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by:
It's not how many knobs but..how many knobs does the operator know how to
use correctly.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 30, 2017, at 5:54 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> QKK? "How many knobs does your radio have?"
> QKK 146 "My radio has 146 knobs"
>
> QKU?
I'm using the SDR Play {RSP 1} and HDSDR very successfully for my
needs. However, I do not use the IF output on either of my radios. I
use the SDR Play receiver by picking the signal off of the RX ANT IN
and OUT on my K3S and I pick the signal from the Band Pass filter of my
other two
Comments on the R & O - Effective EST on March 5, 2012.
Amateurs are permitted to operate on five specific frequency channels,
each having an effective bandwidth of 2.8 kHz.
*Table 1:*
Channel 1: 5330.5 kHz
Channel 2: 5346.5 kHz
Channel 3: 5357.0 kHz
Channel 4: 5371.5 kHz
Channel 5:
I use memories 61, 62, 63, 64 & 65 for 60 meter frequencies and mode.
You can choose memories of your choice. By doing this then pressing V-M
one can "tune" through the memories. Finding one you wish to use,then
press V-M again and the radio goes there.
Those frequencies are are as follows
Be sure you have updated WSJT-X to v1.8.0-rc2. This version does
correct a couple of issues in the rig configuration file.
73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10163
On 9/29/2017 10:49 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
If all you changed was the computer, then the problem is with the
computer setup. Is the
Use the Elecraft Utility, select Edit Power On Banner and make the
changes you need. Just be sure there are no extra letters or symbols
in the box. Only 22 characters are allowed.
Of course you will need the radio powered up and connected to the
computer. Also check the port number and
With FLDIGI there are two modes for DATA. PKTUSB is preferred for all modes
except where one chooses PKTLSB for AFSK. The CAT command will handle the
radio mode switching. Thus one does not have to turn to the radio and initiate
the REV mode.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 28,
.@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob McGraw K4TAX
> Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 4:35 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New product idea for Elecraft...?
>
> One other point is the hams mentality ; "I've
One other point is the hams mentality ; "I've operated hundreds of ham
radios and I know how this one works". HA! Better read the dang
manual two or three times. Also the Fred Cady, KE7X has a wealth of
information not included in the standard Elecraft K3S Owner's Manual.
Regarding
Between my operation of SSB, CW and digital modes, I find the radio
makes all the changes necessary as I change modes and bands. Thus once
configured as I operate, no changes to any menu's are needed.
One thing I did conclude...the radio is a lot smarter than I
am. Thanks Wayne,
1101 - 1200 of 1608 matches
Mail list logo