I test drove a 76 300D this afternoon. It drove quite nice and I intend to
look at it further. I want to get it on a hoist so I can poke around
underneath.
Is there anything that I should really look for before I agree to buy this
thing?
Advice appreciated. I have never owned one of these.
Im sure it all boils down to something is going on with richard. He
seems to have no interest in the deal at all. Im sure you are right on
the copyright stuff so if anybody has any of the old articles saved,
might want to send them on down the line for future use.
Steve MacSween wrote:
Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap
this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my
85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT
degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever
seen 134 do
Timing chain stretch.
condition or fuel and vac lines
rust at the front quarter panel before the doors
Water intrusion into the trunk and passenger sections
Blower motor function
rust in the foot wells up front
driver seat springs
Odometer function and Instrument cluster lights
Wipers and
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap
this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my
85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT
degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think
WOW, that is as good as 134 just about. Anybody got any work on when
the damn price of this crap will go back down? Hopefully by the time
fall gets here.
John Ervine wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap
this year, it cools
I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and charge
after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer. I am very
sceptical about how bad R-134 is.
From: John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing
must not have been charged right then, if it gets that cold I would
think the evaporator would freeze up.
Ali Al-Abbasi wrote:
I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and
charge after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer.
I am very sceptical about
For a late model 123 ign lock (The one with a face about 3/4 inch dia as
opposed to the older 3/8 inch exposed face) I'd like to know how to get the
wafers out of the lock. I have the lock out of the car in my hand. THere
is a pin on the side, just behind the face that looks like it might be
Loren:
I have no idea how to take the lock apart, but if it was sticking,
cleaning won't fix it (they tend to go bad around 200,000 miles, more
or less). Get a new one, they are only about $70 or so. Take the
registration to a dealer or good independent parts supplier and order
one from
Dragging parking brakes, or dragging service brakes. Dragging service
brakes are usually caused by swollen hoses. Try pushing the caliper pucks
in while still on the car. If they won't push in all the way, open the
bleeder screw. if they push in then (squirting out fluid) then the hoses
Rust, rust filled with body putty, structural rust covered with new
sheet. Look over the headlights, over the readr wheels, behind the front
wheels, (inside the fender), in front of the rear wheels (inside the
fender) and in the trunk wells. Anything else is not terminal in most
cases.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=33613item=7985130119rd=1
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD,
81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Just wanted to thank everyone that has piped in with info and suggestions on
this project. I have been being VERY concerned about this thing, and to get
a little more input is very valuable. I feel much better about the TON of
fuel it is drinking, as someone reminded me that it has an
20 degrees is under charged.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
http://stores.ebay.com/Tom-Hargrave-Sales
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Ali Al-Abbasi
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 7:48 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] did
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
http://stores.ebay.com/Tom-Hargrave-Sales
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 2:10 PM
To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices
Subject: Today's Diesel Prices
** ** **
How's the ignition? Does your car have that bastardized
semi-electronic/semi-breaker point setup with the control box conveniently
located under the battery tray? If so, an aftermarket electronic ignition
like a Pertronix would make a big difference. The stock setup is a huge
headache.
Thing is, I just did a car with no working return line and no working fuel
cut off. It seems to run OK.
--
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 10:03:39 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay?
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
rust. 115s like to rust.
At 09:40 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
I test drove a 76 300D this afternoon. It drove quite nice and I intend to
look at it further. I want to get it on a hoist so I can poke around
underneath.
Is there anything that I should really look for before I agree to buy this
The 92 300TDt has a nice becker mexico shortware/longwave/AM/FM/
Traffic radio in it. Problem is the lights are burned out, and my
wife says it crackles.
It's a head unit, with amp in the back. I'm wondering here if I
should spend the $$ to have it serviced via becker usa, or replace it?
Kaleb,
I can help with a web site but I need to be careful with my time.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
http://stores.ebay.com/Tom-Hargrave-Sales
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 11:47
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/82621774.html --76 300d $1500
Still no french cars
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
Kaleb,
My W123 with R-134a conversion would also generate 38F (approx) duct
temps with 85-90F ambients, especially with the car rolling at 35mph
or more. At idle or not moving the temps are higher. And at high
ambients (100F+ with low humidity) it's not very good even at freeway
speeds.
But,
In a message dated 7/5/2005 4:42:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap
this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my
85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38,
Loren,
I found that I could get a lot of dirt and gunk out of the cylinder just by
soaking it. I cleaned up two of them about 18 months ago and they still seem
to be better than before.
I also used compressed air repeatedly to blow out the dirt and cleaner.
Don't remember what I used for
the big worry would be rust
(thankfully not a big problem here in Oregon), and the heater fan.
Where in Oregon are you?
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1978 300D 132K miles, Ingrid
1978 300CD 200K+ miles, Vinnie, all washed and waxed, finally!
1982 Mazda B2200 diesel pickup, 142K miles, Gopher, just
Joseph Shaw wrote:
It also supposedly ran fine when parked four or five years prior, which I
have come to believe, only because everything else I was told by the prior
owners has proven to be true, and they seemed pretty honest about it when I
bought it, so I trust them at their word at this
Thanks!
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gerald R. Flintrop
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 9:28 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: [MBZ] ATE Brake Fluid (Blue)
Rusty,
Late last week, I ordered three liters of ATE Super Blue Racing
Joseph Shaw wrote:
It also supposedly ran fine when parked four or five years prior, which
I
have come to believe, only because everything else I was told by the
prior
owners has proven to be true, and they seemed pretty honest about it
when I
bought it, so I trust them at their word
Maybe 20 degrees Celsius?
Otherwise, horsefeathers..
Richard
--- Ali Al-Abbasi [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It stayed like that for a good few years until I sold the car.
In TX summers, I never complained.
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL
Have yet to see a later one, Loren, but if it's anything at all like
the one that was in my '80 when I got it it's not really intended to
be serviceable in that fashion and has to be drilled out. Rather
tedious.
http://my.sanbrunocable.com/joeknight/
joe
On 7/5/05, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have plenty of airflow coming out of the vents.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 7/5/2005 4:42:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap
this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put
Is this 20 deg C ?
On 7/5/05, Ali Al-Abbasi [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and charge
after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer. I am very
sceptical about how bad R-134 is.
From: John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Wed, 6 Jul 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am currently looking at the blower circuit on my 116 after finding that
the maximum voltage reaching the blower is 9 VOLTS, this with the engine
running and about 13 .5 volts at the alternator. Air flow is way down. I
ran a
heavy jumper from
Those of you familiar with the 722.6 tranny (used in I believe all e and c
class cars 96 - ??, for sure in my 97 e320) know the fluid is supposed to be
a lifetime fluid. Well, I do not believe in lifetime fluid so I ordered a
filter and the special $8/L fluid from Rusty awhile back and finally
In a message dated 7/6/2005 5:08:23 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have had it running well enough to drive-about four months ago-though it
would NOT get up to speed at that time-would rev fine when sitting still,
and would start out, but would max out at
JabbaHursty wrote:
do the 124s rust up north? i ask this because outside of a few common
spots, I am yet to see a 124 with rust. just looking at my 109 and 115
brings up bubbles or rust, my 123s have considerable rust, but my 2 124s
show nearly nothing.
The rust protection on 124/201s is
In a message dated 7/6/2005 7:51:01 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Those of you familiar with the 722.6 tranny (used in I believe all e and c
class cars 96 - ??, for sure in my 97 e320) know the fluid is supposed to be
a lifetime fluid. Well, I do not believe
R A Bennell wrote:
I test drove a 76 300D this afternoon. It drove quite nice and I intend to
look at it further. I want to get it on a hoist so I can poke around
underneath.
Is there anything that I should really look for before I agree to buy this
thing?
Advice appreciated. I have never
Thanks to all for your input.
I am concerned about rust that may have been repaired as it has had a
recent paint job. I intend to get it on a hoist and have a better look
underneath before I make any deal on it. The trunk looks good under the mat
but has been recently sprayed with a black
Checkout: http://duracoolky.com/
I've used their HC-22 product to top off industrial cooling units. So
far, so good.
I have not yet tried their HC-12a product.
-Dave Walton
On 7/5/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Dave M. wrote:
Hi all,
My friend has a W124 with no A/C. I
Josh Poage wrote:
--
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 10:03:39 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay?
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;
Joe,
That is the one i want to open. How did you get the face off? Are you
saying the little pin I see on the side of the face has to be pulled or
drilled to get the face off so it will come apart?
TIA
Loren
At 08:58 AM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
Have yet to see a later one, Loren, but if
I bought a service dipstick for it but didn't use it (yet). From other forums,
7.3L is the magic number. I measured what I drained, and got just about 7.
Figured the filter still had some, and my wiring harness had wicked a few
tablespoons into the computer (found that over the winter with a
Dave Wakin wrote:
I agree. 20 F is below freezing and doubtfull an automotive's AC is
going to produce it. My newer e320 maybe blows 55 F.
Well, it *can* happen, but the evap would freeze up. Most AC systems that monitor evap temps would then disable the
compressor until the evap thawed out.
Dave Wakin wrote:
Those of you familiar with the 722.6 tranny (used in I believe all e and
c class cars 96 - ??, for sure in my 97 e320) know the fluid is supposed
to be a lifetime fluid. Well, I do not believe in lifetime fluid so I
ordered a filter and the special $8/L fluid from Rusty
The outside temp gauge in my 1994 E500 rarely works, and when it does, it does
so intermittently, or only shows partial numbers. My mechanic assures me that
the problem is not the sensor in the front bumper, but the read-out gauge
itself. Replacement cost including labor is estimated at several
The part alone retails for $510.00. If your mechanic can do it for
several hundred, that sounds like a real bargain. My cost is over
$300.00. I would love to know his source.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
Its the same as duracool, or is supposed to be. I have tried duracool
but not the new name. The last batch of duracool I got must have been
bad or something as it didnt work worth a darn.
dave walton wrote:
Checkout: http://duracoolky.com/
I've used their HC-22 product to top off
Joseph Shaw wrote:
I have had it running well enough to drive-about four months
ago-though it would NOT get up to speed at that time-would rev fine
when sitting still, and would start out, but would max out at about
20-25 MPH and simply not go any faster. This is when I decided to
start
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am concerned about rust that may have been repaired as it has had a
recent paint job. I intend to get it on a hoist and have a better look
underneath before I make any deal on it.
Absolutely.
The trunk looks good under the mat
but has been recently sprayed with a
Starting issue may just be tired battery not up to charge, so a weak
starting after glow sucks juice. More driving will get it back up to
snuff for a few more years... maybe.
If it has spent most of its life just stored, should be ok. Going to
have to drive it hard to get it back into shape
Josh Poage wrote:
after I replaced the compressor this time the clutch has started
cutting in and out rapidly after it has been running for a while, and
the aux fan with it. The new relay chatters in time with this.
In my experience, chattering relays are often a symptom of a bad ground
For just the LCD? Any brains circuitry? I have heard of custom LCD's
being built if a large enough order is put in. Similar problem with a
lexus climate control LCD display... guy ordered a couple hundred and sold
them for about $10-20 (if memory serves correctly, either way it was
cheap).
Brian Baker wrote:
The rear hubs on both sides are very hot to the touch after a short trip,
(say less than 10 miles).
And then later:
Loren suggested parking brake dragging. NOPE!
Peter said parking brake or time to rebuild caliper. NOPE!
It was easier than I thought to fix this
On the side that was causing the problem, yes the hub is only slightly warm
after a 10 mile trip. Didn't check the other side, I still suspect some
brake drag as the pads I put on last summer are down about 40%. The
calipers move freely. Hoses?
Brian from Columbia MO
'82 240D 275,8XX
-
Howdy all-
I've been battling with a windshield wiper problem for almost a year
now. One of the ball joints that connects to the driverside wiper is
worn out. Judging by the comments I've read on here, that seems to be
cause for a whole new linkage. Is this correct? Are there any other
Rusty;
I probably stopped listening at the word hundred, and he may well have said:
five hundred plus.
Hard to believe that anything involving a commodity LED would be so expensive,
but I don't know what else is involved in it.
Any other solutions? Junkyard/used?
Joseph
---BeginMessage---
I would just remember what the temp was when I got in the car or roll
down my window for $500.00. That is why I don't own anything newer than
1981!
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 2:50 PM
Thanks again for the input.
I hope it looks good on the next inspection 'cause I want it.
Randy
Joe Mendyka wrote:
Howdy all-
I've been battling with a windshield wiper problem for almost a year
now. One of the ball joints that connects to the driverside wiper is
worn out. Judging by the comments I've read on here, that seems to be
cause for a whole new linkage. Is this correct? Are
FYI:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/ is back on line
Paul
Visalia, CA
1985 300TD-T Mommy Wagon
1984 300D-T Hot Rod
PaulRaheb(at)comcast.net
http://www.prankplace.com/stickers9.htm
It is the ultipenultimate next to next to last on the page
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
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