, 2008 3:39 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D still won't start
When was the last time you put in fuel? Maybe gelled summer fuel?
An incandescent bulb in a trouble light under the
hood by the IP overnight might warm it enough to find out.
I'm still voting for valves.
-Curt
Date: Wed
I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there wouldn't
mind, I would like to be reminded of
the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.
My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it is not cold
out. The orange light came on as
normal
Easy to install. Take out the old glow plugs and toaster wires, put in the
new plugs, wire them in series, and do NOT hook up the ground strap at the
front side.
On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:37 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out
OK, but please clarify. Is there a ground strap there now? And if so, why
wouldn't I reconnect it?
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Wonko the Sane
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 11:54 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ
PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start
OK, but please clarify. Is there a ground strap there now? And if so, why
wouldn't I reconnect it?
Randy
-Original Message
-0600
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there wouldn't
mind, I would like
have someone hold out the glow switch. with a volt meter check for
voltage on each busbar. when you get to the one that has no voltage,
moving forward, then the plug behind that is the bad one.
If you replace loop type with loop type, then everything, including
the ground goes back as
of something less than one ohm. I also assume one must disconnect
and test each separately.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:50 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:50 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start
have someone hold out the glow switch. with a volt meter check for
voltage
First, the glow plug lamp will light as normal in a W115 300D with
series plugs even if the hot wire at the rear is off, it's not
current operated. Likely you have a burned out plug.
The way to check is to get a volt meter and check the voltage to
ground from the glow plugs from back to
The 300D has a keyswitch operated relay and vacuum shutoff, not a
pull knob.
Peter
On Nov 3, 2008, at 12:49 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:
have someone hold out the glow switch. with a volt meter check for
voltage on each busbar. when you get to the one that has no
voltage, moving forward,
I would like to be reminded of
the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.
While glowing, measure the voltage between the center pin
and the collar of each plug, you should see approximately
1V between these two pins. (Neither pin is ground.) This
is much simpler and more
PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:50 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start
have someone hold out the glow switch. with a volt meter check for
voltage on each busbar. when you get to the one that has
I've done it on a 114 and a 108, both were jobs from Hades. I would not
encourage anyone to do it unless they had a lot of time and were willing to
shred their hands and arms in the process.
I think the 114 was the first one I did (1970 250C) and it took me all of two
very long days. I
Thanks for the input, everyone.
I'm tempted to follow OK Don's method of through the top, except I still
have no idea how anything goes together in there, and without his experience
of Already Having Done It Once, I'm not at all sure what I'd be doing under
there; how it all goes together is
You need the manual (or CD) to see what you're working with. There's a
rubber boot between the housing and the center vents that comes off
the housing, and clips down the sides of the housing (IIRC) that have
to come off so you can split the housing to get to the fan.
The right way took me two 12
Did the job on Gump. She had no AC, so the job was really straight
forward. The heat exchanger and fan for AC are near impossible to
remove without breakage, at least for a ham fist like me. Took a
weekend (about 12 shop hours) to remove and replace dash with blower
fan install. Take
Hi, list -
The blower in my (76 300D) 115's been dead for a year or two now, and I'm
thinking of jumping in to replace it.
(As Marshal suggests periodically, I wouldn't bother to replace it, EXCEPT
that it makes an intolerable rattling/groaning/grinding noise at speed if
the A/C isn't on - this
but the heater core/evap/fan area is inaccessible and strange. I still
don't
understand the point of that squirrel-cage fan at the...)
The squirrel-cage fan in the hump is the recirculating AC fan.
The heater fan is in the firewall, and is a propeller fan.
-- Jim
,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Stuart Saxonberg
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:22 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 115 heater blower
Hi, list -
The blower in my (76 300D) 115's been
I've done it twice, and that's enough. The first time I followed the
MB repair manual - pretty much what Tom said, but I also removed the
entire dash, if memory proves correct.
The second time, (different car - no rust), I pulled it out through
the center speaker hole. It took half the time, but
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-IMMACULATE-MERCEDES-240D-3-LITRE_W0QQitemZ170153394096QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6329QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
91 300D, 90 420SEL,
Interestink?
Nice car.Car is offered by a guy? in Derbyshire, England. The car has R.A.C and
A.A. badges on the front and where was the picture taken? Pick-up in Florida?
Methinks something in the stinks in the state of Denmark!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
R.A.C = Royal Automobile Club
A.A. U.K. equivalent
I have the cover off the hole in the dash. I see the steering lock
assembly with the lock in it. The chrome front of the lock tumbler
is visible, but has no hole like the 123 lock tumbler. Is the sleeve
you refer to the chrome cover on the tumbler? (with the slot for the key)
Thanks a
Should be almost identical to the 110 and the 123 -- I think the
cylinders exchange on all of them!
The sleeve surounds the cylinder, and overlaps it, with the chrome
cover with the key slot uncovered. The hole is, I think, behind the
top part of the sleeve.
You will need a pick to pull it
Just checked -- the chrome face is two parts -- the tumbler chromed
face is just a tiny bit larger than the key slot, and there is a large
chromed ring around that which does not turn. That is the part you
pull up. On earlier models you could pull the key in position I, but
the Feds stopped
So the sleeve looks like part of the steering lock? If so, I should
be able to get it out then. Thanks much!
Loren
76 300D 115 (parts for sale!)
At 11:07 PM 6/8/2007, you wrote:
Should be almost identical to the 110 and the 123 -- I think the
cylinders exchange on all of them!
The sleeve
ok, that sounds like some of the older 123s, but this one seems to
have a one piece chrome cover, with only the key slot in it. I will
look next week when i get a chance to try again. Thanks much!
Loren
At 11:20 PM 6/8/2007, you wrote:
Just checked -- the chrome face is two parts -- the
if you unfold a large paperclip, i've found that that fits the hole
perfectly in my 123 and 124 cars. can't recall specifically my 115. But
you have no need for a formal pick.
On 6/9/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So the sleeve looks like part of the steering lock? If so, I
I was trying to get the starter lock assembly out of the steering
/ignition lock a few weeks ago on my 76 300D junker and there was no
hole for the pin.
Can anyone tell me how to get the thing out?
Can anyone tell me how to get the steering lock out of the column? I
have it loose, and can
Insert key, turn to position 1.
Pull steel sleeve away from tumbler (it covers the hole).
Turn key back to position 0 and remove key and sleeve.
Insert key, turn to position 1, insert small screwdriver, etc into
hole, pull cylinder out.
Install in reverse order.
The sleeve will only pull
Well after surfing around on my 114/115 MB Service Manual CD I discovered to my
chagrin that the vacuum pump on my 74 240D requires maintenance by
addition of oil. I cant tell from the diagram in the procedure, but it
looks like you have to unbolt and remove the pump from the engine in
order to
Im not sure what you are talking about really. This is the first time I
have ever heard of such a thing. I dont see why it would need to be oiled.
Eric Anderton wrote:
Well after surfing around on my 114/115 MB Service Manual CD I discovered to my
chagrin that the vacuum pump on my 74 240D
Eric Anderton wrote:
Well after surfing around on my 114/115 MB Service Manual CD I discovered to my
chagrin that the vacuum pump on my 74 240D requires maintenance by
addition of oil. I cant tell from the diagram in the procedure, but it
looks like you have to unbolt and remove the pump from
In a message dated 1/20/2007 5:50:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Well after surfing around on my 114/115 MB Service Manual CD I discovered to
my
chagrin that the vacuum pump on my 74 240D requires maintenance by
addition of oil. I cant tell from the diagram
: [MBZ] 115 Vacuum Pump Oiling
In a message dated 1/20/2007 5:50:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Well after surfing around on my 114/115 MB Service Manual CD I discovered
to
my
chagrin that the vacuum pump on my 74 240D requires maintenance by
addition of oil
-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2007 7:57 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 Vacuum Pump Oiling
On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 19:48:43 -0500 Eric Anderton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote
If anyone should happen to have a copy of the 114/115 CD handy, please check out
job# 704 titled checking oil level in vacuum pump. Glad to hear that
this is not a common practice, but it is in the Maintenance Manuel
Index. I would be happy to email a pdf to anyone who would like to
take a look
job# 704 titled checking oil level in vacuum pump.
I have never seen one of those belt-driven vacuum pumps.
Ours are all cam-driven from the front of the injection
pump. If you did have a belt-drive vacuum pump, of
course it would need oiling.
That page is for the 115.01X car, which is a
ahh,
Thanks Jim. That fact escaped my attention. One less item is now on my
to-do list.
Eric
job# 704 titled checking oil level in vacuum pump.
I have never seen one of those belt-driven vacuum pumps.
Ours are all cam-driven from the front of the injection
pump. If you did have a
Thats the V-belt driven vacuum pump used on a couple of the gas powered
models. Its a completely different pump than the engine mounted/driven
one on the diesels. Attatched is the PDF.
Eric Anderton wrote:
If anyone should happen to have a copy of the 114/115 CD handy, please check
out
Eric Anderton wrote:
If anyone should happen to have a copy of the 114/115 CD handy, please check out
job# 704 titled checking oil level in vacuum pump. Glad to hear that
this is not a common practice, but it is in the Maintenance Manuel
Index. I would be happy to email a pdf to anyone who would
Pulls from whatever the PnP had that carried the sort of clock. There
have been some 116, a few slc, a bunch of 114/115. Not remembering
which offered what clock, since I tried and failed, so moved on.
I can't imagine that a 116 or 107 uses the right sort of clock at all.
I think only the 76
Not sure where I sourced the clocks. Came PnP, but model escapes me.
I gave it much more thought and finally remembered that the 12v tab was
what did not fit in the proper place. Could be that I was not spinning
the dial fast enough to get it to screw in all the way. I was in the
middle of
That is because you are a mechanical God who can make a car out of
spare microwave sheet metal. I am simple and can not figure out how to
make that quartz fit the hole in Gump. It is a wonder I even
procreated.
Not really. The clock, of course, wouldn't be giving you any help!
Seriously, it
Perhaps some photos of the board it should mount to, and the back of
the clock would help?
Seriously, it was a zero-brainer. Something must be fishy about
the Gumpster if it doesn't just drop right in.
-- Jim
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run
The console is original and I found two of the quartz at PnP that no
matter how I spun them would not line up with the holes for the post.
Off by degrees. I sat them next to the spare mechanicals, and there
were differences. Maybe I got the really odd quartz clocks out of non
115 cars
On
Standard board, but I sold the clocks on eBay to further my
accumulation of old Benz junk.
On Dec 31, 2006, at 7:12 PM, OK Don wrote:
Perhaps some photos of the board it should mount to, and the back of
the clock would help?
Seriously, it was a zero-brainer. Something must be fishy about
The console is original and I found two of the quartz at PnP that no
matter how I spun them would not line up with the holes for the post.
Off by degrees. I sat them next to the spare mechanicals, and there
were differences. Maybe I got the really odd quartz clocks out of non
115 cars
Well
Pulls from whatever the PnP had that carried the sort of clock. There
have been some 116, a few slc, a bunch of 114/115. Not remembering
which offered what clock, since I tried and failed, so moved on.
Should I snag more quartz, I will look at the issue harder and figure
out what I am doing
Working on getting a working clock into my 115 and have come across
two OE
VDO clocks. My question is. One is a VDO Kienzle and the other is a
VDO Quarz-Zeit. What is the difference between the two? Is one more of
a mechanical (ticking) clock?
Exactly. Other differences: the quartz clock is
That is because you are a mechanical God who can make a car out of
spare microwave sheet metal. I am simple and can not figure out how to
make that quartz fit the hole in Gump. It is a wonder I even
procreated.
On Dec 30, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
I tried to install a quartz in
The Kienzle goes tick tick tick, gets slow in the cold, and regular
time in the warmer months. Jim C does not repair them, but he does
work on the quartz. I tried to install a quartz in Gump, but the pin
out for posts was wrong.
On Dec 28, 2006, at 5:06 PM, Eric Anderton wrote:
Working on
Working on getting a working clock into my 115 and have come across two OE
VDO clocks. My question is. One is a VDO Kienzle and the other is a
VDO Quarz-Zeit. What is the difference between the two? Is one more of
a mechanical (ticking) clock? Also what would be an easy way to power
them up for a
The original is a mechanical clock -- it is wound by a solenoid that flips a
weight up, and when working will periodically click once. The Quartz clock
is most likely an electric clock with quartz oscillator control.
The most usual problems with the mechanical clocks are a blown fuse (low
List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Why? I have a 76 300D and highly recommend one.
Randy
-Original Message-
Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds.
They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
Tom Hargrave wrote:
Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds.
They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another
Til you have to replace the heater blower motor!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh
the
same
effect.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 3:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis blower access difficulty
I wonder if it could be replaced with the 80s GMC/80s Volvo 740 Squirrel
cage fan mounted facing inward on the engine bay side of the firewall. It
would require cutting a hole in the firewall from the outside, and a
little bit of thin sheet metal work, but would result in an order of
magnitude
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I wonder if it could be replaced with the 80s GMC/80s Volvo 740 Squirrel
cage fan mounted facing inward on the engine bay side of the firewall.
The tricky thing about squirrel cage fans is they usually need a
volute-shaped housing to get any real efficiency out of them.
I had the radiator for the 450SLC rodded just a few months ago at a
local Ma Pa shop.
On 11/6/06, Tyler Backman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I can't seem to find a place that will do this anymore. All of the
radiator shops just replace the radiator. I have the old style brass
radiators on all four
Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David Brodbeck
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 7:08 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis blower access difficulty
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I wonder if it could be replaced with the 80s GMC/80s Volvo 740
Of R A Bennell
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 3:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis blower access difficulty
OK - I can't say I have looked that closely but if it is so difficult to get
to the blower motor assembly on these
cars, is it not possible to come up
as an
upgrade to something that was not quite
up to spec at the outset.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 6:30 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis blower access
steering, and four on the floor. 0-60 in 10 minutes.
I find our 200D quite torquey, and usually leave it in fourth
gear for most driving, once I'm up to speed. It'll even hit
about 65 by the end of the onramp, if I'm alone. The 240D auto
took 'til almost the next exit to get up to speed.
I
Nov 2006 14:45:38 -0800
From: Tyler Backman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1
I am
Curt:
It is so unlikely that you will be able to clean out that rad that you
would be better off catching meteors
Check for a cold spot in front of the fan -- if there is one, dump the
rad.
Sadly, the stuff that collects is only dissolved by acids that will
also eat the aluminum, and
it's old enough to be president. almost. That, and that whole Born in the
US thing.
On 11/5/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Curt:
It is so unlikely that you will be able to clean out that rad that you
would be better off catching meteors
Check for a cold spot in front of
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Hash: SHA1
Curt,
You might be right. I can run mine full throttle up hills if I turn
both heater cores and the blower fan on full blast, so I probably
have a clogged radiator. I've never had any luck with radiator flush,
and I have no chance of affording
I think Tyler is driving a 115 chassis 240D - it should have the
copper radiator like the 220D (?). If so, take it to a radiator shop
for rodding, cleaning, and flow testing.
Mercedes recommends using a citric acid flush - it's covered in the
service manual. There was recent thread on the
If the engine is cared for and the transmission is good, you can cruise
all day at 74 mph. I can get Gump to top speed of 87 mph for a few
miles, but back down since she does not like to go that fast.
The cars are slow to get to top speed but will hold it as well as any
other diesel, expect
Use citric acid, that will take out anything stronger acids will.
Chances are, unless the core is badly corroded, your local radiator
shop will be able to unsolder the tanks and rod out the core, then
solder the tanks back on.
Make SURE they either seal or remove the oil cooler while doing
On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 20:50:37 -0800 Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The cars are slow to get to top speed but will hold it as well as any
other diesel, expect those new turbo or CDI things. Gump will climb a
hill in second or third and gain speed. Slowly, but she will gain at
WOT. If
The blower is a DIY, but get a friend or two for dash install and
removal. You will need that many hands to man handle it out. I think
the windscreen got installed after the dash. If you can have friends
hitting all the parts, you could do it in a few hours. Alone it is 10
hours shop time.
YES
to Everything
Best place to get to know the car is to putter around town for a day
and then get out on the highway and go for 80 miles to open her up.
They drive like old cars or like cars used to long ago.
On Nov 5, 2006, at 7:03 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:
They feel a bit breathless
Jim, I thought the Frankenheap had a 616 head. Makes it a 240D then?
On Nov 5, 2006, at 8:39 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general
consensus of those who have
driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars.
I think they'd make a real
Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:44 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
What are the bad actors on the car please.
Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many
crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil
is messy
@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim,
Since you mentioned the oil filter - there is one other item you need
to
watch for.
There should be a plastic assembly inside the filter housing along
with
the
main replaceable filter. The assembly
In a message dated 11/5/2006 7:38:54 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general
concessis of those who have
driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one
I have come
across
Jim, I thought the Frankenheap had a 616 head. Makes it a 240D then?
It may. But it still is a 2l motor, not a 2.4, it's just got
a little better breathing through slightly larger valves. Or
so I understand.
-- Jim
The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the
cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are other
differences as well -- I believe the IP is lubed by engine oil as in
the 617, and that the head is slightly different.
Peter
Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 12:17 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the
cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are other
differences as well -- I believe the IP is lubed
Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part? Wouldn't it make
more sense to install a tested but new part? How pissed would you bee two
weeks later when you have to do it again. Even if the PnP guy gave you a
refund.
Chris Kueny ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
78 Chevy Custom deluxe
'85
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part? Wouldn't it make
more sense to install a tested but new part? How pissed would you bee two
weeks later when you have to do it again. Even if the PnP guy gave you a
refund.
Chris
The blower motors run a long time before they fail...
Especially if, knowing the car's weakness, you turn them off as soon
as ram air can take over. They can also, albeit with difficulty, be
lubricated from the air intake side.
-- Jim
Not the 2.4 in the 115, the ip still have to be filled with the oil.
Only ones that were lubed from the engine was the 115 300D and later
diesels.
Peter Frederick wrote:
The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the
cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are
I can't seem to find a place that will do this anymore. All of the
radiator shops just replace the radiator. I have the old style brass
radiators on all four of my vehicles (74 mercedes, 84 volvo, 87
volvo, and 89 honda).
On Nov 5, 2006, at 8:44 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Use citric
Jim Cathey wrote:
The blower motors run a long time before they fail...
Especially if, knowing the car's weakness, you turn them off as soon
as ram air can take over.
Wow, that brings back memories. I used to do that in my Volvo 240.
That's another car with a hard-to-get-at blower --
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David Brodbeck
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 1:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim Cathey wrote:
The blower motors run a long time before they fail...
Especially
Why? I have a 76 300D and highly recommend one.
Randy
-Original Message-
Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds.
They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
OK - I can't say I have looked that closely but if it is so difficult to get to
the blower motor assembly on these
cars, is it not possible to come up with some sort of retrofit setup? Cut a
hole and mount a blower in place of the
radio - who knows but why give up on a car just because the
The blower was fully tested and reconditioned with assistance from BiL.
He also helped with the install. For the $5 it cost for the part, I
saved $395 over retail. Worth the price to me.
On Nov 6, 2006, at 4:33 AM, Chris Kueny wrote:
Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part?
If you can crawl up in the place the blower services, a few large
computer fans with the neon lights would work. I thought about it, but
decided it was easier to just replace the thing.
On Nov 6, 2006, at 1:48 PM, R A Bennell wrote:
OK - I can't say I have looked that closely but if it is so
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general
concessis of those who have
driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one
I have come
across well maintained, standard, low rust, relatively low miles all
records ect for low dollars.
What are the
If the blower motor fails, either only drive in good weather or scrap the
car - replacement is a bear. The whole car is built around it. Otherwise,
watch out for cancerous rust (it spreads pretty quickly), and the steering
wheel is a -little- too high to drive with your knees.
Does yours have
- Original Message -
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
If the blower motor fails, either only drive in good weather or scrap the
car - replacement is a bear
They feel a bit breathless at highway speeds due to the low gearing
(84 mph is the top speed with an auto, you might get a couple more mph
out of a standard).
A long trip on the interstate might be tiring, but they DO go forever
on fuel, usually in the mid 30's on the road. I used to drive
On a blower motor, the book gives a shop time of 20 hours of labor. If you
go through the speaker hole in the dash, -supposedly- this cuts it to 8-10
hours. And you'll mangle your hands. Plan on an entire weekend.
Those silly Germans built the car around the blower motor. They fixed this
in
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general
consensus of those who have
driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars.
I think they'd make a real nice highway car. A dead blower motor
then makes no difference, because they have a good ram air supply.
Having driven
What are the bad actors on the car please.
Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many
crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil
is messy, it (probably) predates the topsider sucker tube, and
the oil filter is the all-over-your-arm from the bottom type.
And,
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