/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27137
that made radio control seem like a good idea. (I have zero experience
w/ R/C.) The water tank car has way more capacity than the Philly has
alcohol, so I started thinking about how to "hide" R/C gear in the water
tank (it's going to be an SP "bat
Bert,
one thing thats worth trying is to buy a spare set of crystals and
install..I had a dreadful glitcher once and new crystals fixed
it..apparently sometimes they are not a good match and this causes poor
performance.
Having said that, RCS gear will not glitch,Tony does a lot of his test
Paul,
I understand!!
Fellow Glitching finger Geoff.
That was a glitching finger that sent that message
That was a glitching finger that sent that message
Paul Gamlin wrote:
I love your solution Paul!!
Geoff.
On 14/8/04 9:30 am, "Bert & Edmunda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Vance,
>
> On this subject I tried this system without a lot of success. I then met a
> guy with a model submarine who recommended wrapping the antenna around
> a piece of 10mm dia wood or plastic tube. Then wrapping the w
Hello Vance,
On this subject I tried this system without a lot of success. I then met a
guy with a model submarine who recommended wrapping the antenna around
a piece of 10mm dia wood or plastic tube. Then wrapping the whole in
aluminium foil, leaving about 1" outside. I tried it and it works. I
p
First thing to check would be your antenna. The best design I have seen --
compact and pretty effective -- involves cutting a piece of cardboard or
styrene with pinking scissors to give is a zig-zag edge. Then, wrap your
antenna around it, moving to the next point on each turn. This keeps the
a
-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of paul gamlin
Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 2:52 PM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: R/C Glitching
I would like to here from members of this group that have and are using
radio control and how they improved its performance .
I
I would like to here from members of this group that have and are using
radio control and how they improved its performance .
I just purchased a FM R/C unit and am trying to control the rusty bolt /
glitching problem .
Thanks
Paul
At 08:03 PM 27/07/03 -0700, Gary from Terror Trestle country wrote:
I have been told it is and is not possible to R/C my Aster Alisan shay.
I attended Portland's mini layout tour (9 layouts in one day, found 8 within
the time constraints). A SR&RL #24 had very small servos activating
thr
> Any recommendations for brand, model, and best units for live steam?
>
Gary -
Although I have not seen the Aster Alisan I have been around RC for many
years. I don't think it should be a problem getting servos in the
size/power you are looking for.
You can take a look at: www.towerhobbies.com
I have been told it is and is not possible to R/C my Aster Alisan shay.
I attended Portland's mini layout tour (9 layouts in one day, found 8 within
the time constraints). A SR&RL #24 had very small servos activating
throttle and reversing lever. While fitting a receiver and battery
> As others said, a cheap GROUND radio will work. Do NOT let
> anyone talk you
> into an air frequency! It is illegal to use for ground applications, and
> (because) it can cause all kinds of havoc if used while someone
> is using it
> to control an aircraft.
Yes, I'm well aware of the restricti
Evans wrote:
If you want ground-frequency with more than two channels look at model
boat suppliers and r/c vehicle suppliers ie model tanks, where more than
2 channels are often required.
Sam E
Tom Wrote:
Supposedly, it
should be a ground-frequency unit, and those I've seen only
If you want ground-frequency with more than two channels look at model
boat suppliers and r/c vehicle suppliers ie model tanks, where more than
2 channels are often required.
Sam E
> Tom Wrote:
>
Supposedly, it
> should be a ground-frequency unit, and those I've seen
her items if desired.
RCS is not for everyone of course.
It is expensive compared to low cost 2 stick AM R/C but it does do
what I claim it will do and the functionality should really be
compared to a 5 channel proportional rig.
I have recently introduced an upgraded programme that offers a snap
As others said, a cheap GROUND radio will work. Do NOT let anyone talk you
into an air frequency! It is illegal to use for ground applications, and
(because) it can cause all kinds of havoc if used while someone is using it
to control an aircraft.
I have the RCS system in my Ruby, I like it b
Hi Earle
The only thing to watch is the heat build up in the batteries while
charging. This is dependent on the charger used (a trickle charger
builds minimal heat and produces minimal punch) I use a charger from
my RC racing days and set it at 1.5 amps - usually charges them in 20
minutes.
The
Thanks for the response! Your setup would be great for my Forney as I could
mount a charging plug under the bunker and avoid having to remove it to swap
batteries (on the Forney you must unscrew the bunker mounting screws and
carefully remove it to avoid scratching the paint!). Thanks!
> Hi Earle
ECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On
Behalf Of Trent Dowler
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 7:14 PM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: Re: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]
Harley,
I have the schematic that you suggested. At first it seems simple
enough. But...
On the sche
Hi Trent and list.
The positive line does not go on any further in the water gauge, but in the
designers locos it probably went on to the R/C gear - using the same
batteries for both, - many of his locos are radio controlled. There are
two probes in that version, and the two indicating LEDs
Harley,
I have the schematic that you suggested. At first it seems simple
enough. But...
On the schematic that I was sent, the "+ve rail" near the top of the
page appears to go off the left edge of the drawing with no indication of
further connections. Should it have stopped at the junct
Subject: Re: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]
What type of sensor?
Mike Eorgoff
- Original Message -
From: "Harley Kelsey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 3:51 PM
Subject:
What type of sensor?
Mike Eorgoff
- Original Message -
From: "Harley Kelsey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 3:51 PM
Subject: RE: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]
This gentleman has a very neat electronic sensor and will send you a
schematic and parts drawing. Has up to 4 mark points.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Harley Kelsey
It just occured to me that there is, possibly, a method of detecting
boiler
water level which is much simpler that sensing it in the glass or
It just occured to me that there is, possibly, a method of detecting boiler
water level which is much simpler that sensing it in the glass or using
probes within the boiler. I'm sure this method must have been used but I've
never done it myself in gauge 1.
This would only work in a boiler with a c
more trouble to add
auto control.
Victor Lacy
--- Original Message -
From: "Alison & Jim Gregg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 12:55 AM
Subject: Re: 360 Servo conversion [wa
sslivesteam
Subject: Re: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]
This sort of experience happens when the pump is oversize compared to the
boiler's needs. The tipoff is the pump producing "an incredible amount of
water." The output of the pump for most gauge 1 locos needs to be only
iple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]
> The capacitance sensor is subject to the effects of its environment. With
the
> small ammount of water in the glass I would tend to t
Hello All,
I, too, am starting to think that a sensor on the sight glass isn't
possible- regardless of sensor type used. Too many problems with bubbles,
capillary action, fluctuations, etc., etc.. But, I still like the probes in the
boiler as someone mentioned.
For anyone interested, I o
ts of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 7:29 PM
Subject: RE: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]
>
>
> Do not try an axle driven pump. I took the Regner off the servo and
mounted
> it into my Accucraft Shay. I connected the pump with an e
Do not try an axle driven pump. I took the Regner off the servo and mounted
it into my Accucraft Shay. I connected the pump with an eccentric mounted on
the crankshaft next to the rear valve eccentric. The pump would pump an
incredible amount of water and worked well when it wasn't connected to t
on in the sight glass, the boiler will go dry.
Victor Lacy
- Original Message -
From: "Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C qu
These sight glasses for water levels, are they a large enough diameter to
hold a small bead or such that might be read by an opticle sensor? I am new
to most of this stuff but hey, just a thought... Dan McGrath
_
Add photos to
The capacitance sensor is subject to the effects of its environment. With the
small ammount of water in the glass I would tend to think that the false
trigger rate would be a real problem. The infrared optical sensor is the best
bet for reliability. Conductivity probes in the boiler work well
The capacitive sensor I speak of is a proximity sensor that is supposed to
be good for a variety of materials. They are adjustable so you'd set it
for water in the glass then ensure it changed states when the water went
away. I'm now thinking that there may not be enough water mass in a small
sig
I might be able to offer advice... What'cha got cookin'? {:]
Trot, the semi-audiophilic, fox...
On Sun, 29 Dec 2002, Dave Cole wrote:
> all hands:
>
> since it's clear that there are lots of people with useful physics
> and engineering info on this list, i pose this question:
>
> is there some
I would suggest that the question be posted to the list and then request that
specific technical details be sent to you off list. This will give wider
exposure to the question. There is the possibility that the solution to the
problem is known by another list member and they can point you in t
all hands:
since it's clear that there are lots of people with useful physics
and engineering info on this list, i pose this question:
is there somebody out there who would like to help me with an
electronics/audio problem **for my live steam layout** (to keep on
topic here)? If so, please con
The trick to get the photocell to detect water is to realise that a liquid
(water) filled column has a different refractive index as compared to the steam
filled glass tube. You have to position the cells at an acute angle to the
veridical axis of the sight glass. As a demonstration place a pe
Hello All,
If it is- or ever was- of interest to anyone, I found the item below on
eBay. It is only the electronics from one of the paintball marker hoppers that
was being discussed earlier as a possible donor for boiler feed pump use.
The servo is not shown or being auctioned, but it gi
If you're going to go to that amount of trouble you may as well just use a
capacitive sensor to detect the actual liquid in the glass. I suspect you
could also detect the liquid level optically by depending on the
refraction difference of the water though.
Trot, the semi-versed, fox...
On Tue, 1
e electronics of the hopper is nothing more than a servo intended for
R/C use, but modified to spin 360 degrees.
Also present in the hopper is an electronic board and two photoelectric
eyes attached. The eyes see the balls pass through the neck and when there is
the lack of a ball, the board send
servo intended for
R/C use, but modified to spin 360 degrees.
Also present in the hopper is an electronic board and two photoelectric
eyes attached. The eyes see the balls pass through the neck and when there is
the lack of a ball, the board sends power to the servo which in turn spins an
agitator
iscussions. Because you have had lots
of previous experience with R/C airplanes, and now small live steam locos,
have you ever looked at the http://www.flysteam.co.uk/ website?
Now, to get back on topic. Thank you for the kind words about my
chain-driven teakettles. I did get my latest 4-2-0 project i
Steve,
That's a great site! Glad to see that there are so many people as obsessed
as we are!
Bob
Tony D.,
Been following the servo and linkage discussions. Because you have had lots
of previous experience with R/C airplanes, and now small live steam locos,
have you ever looked at the http://www.flysteam.co.uk/ website?
Now, to get back on topic. Thank you for the kind words about my
chain
Hi Pete,
Ref. Throttle spindle rotation requirements.
I agree, which was one of my points of discussion yesterday, with or
without R/C.
i.e. 360 degr. rotation is not an absolute neccessity for operating
these steamers, even with "heavy" loads.
Due to the mating fit and an
Hi Tony,
Very interesting site, of which I was not previously aware. So I had
already gone a slightly different route, and made up my own drive system
from regular R/C car parts. But good for future needs.
Thanks,
Tony D.
At 09:17 PM 12/5/02 +, Tony wrote:
Hello listers.
I thought I
ike,
>Sounds as if you are looking to increase effective control from the
>limited servo movement?.
>I have an assortment of various servo,s, and have used both the
>following servo,s for steam engine R/C. For direct or indirect push pull,
>or rotary controls.
>Futaba S3
Hi All.
This modification simply converts the servo into a geared motor marginally
stopable - and reversable by R/C, it is not suitable for control of loco
throttles. It is a good cheap way of drivingan electric water pump though
as Karl suggested.
Jim Gregg.
At 08:07 AM 12/5/02 -0700, you
I am purchasing a new kit Aster Alisan Shay. Well, it is a 1/4 century old,
but never built. In any case, has anyone installed R/C into this relatively
small loco? The idea of a chain drive to turn valves sounds very useful.
Does one replace the standard valve knobs with gears?
Gary - Slipping on
I added r/c to my Accucraft C-16 last year. (SitG published the article in 3 parts,
but the photos weren't very visible. I have a .ZIP with most of them - email me
offline if you'd like a copy.)
One thing I learned was that, although the throttle spindle could be opened 360+
degre
isk.
Ken Vogel
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
> Behalf Of James Curry
> Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 6:42 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> Subject: Re: R/C question
>
>
> >Most servos have stop
>Most servos have stops molded into
the case (upper) these can be removed and the servo will travel 360
degrees.<
At Diamondhead I've seen tender mounted water pumps with a servo operating
360 deg. to drive the pump. Now I know how they did it. I'll have to look
at one of mine. When I operate m
Hi Ferdinand,
I also liked Robbe products when in the UK. But they are non existant
in Central California. Have not seen anything at all from them here.
Tony D.
At 08:54 PM 12/4/02 -0500, FBM Studios wrote:
Hi
On servo choices there are many. Most servos have stops molded into
the case (uppe
Hi
On servo choices there are many. Most servos have stops molded into
the case (upper) these can be removed and the servo will travel 360
degrees.
Sailing servos are designed in this manner without the stops thus they
can operate a winch.
I use the radio to control the actual amount of servo tra
t;limited servo movement?.
>I have an assortment of various servo,s, and have used both the
>following servo,s for steam engine R/C. For direct or indirect push pull,
>or rotary controls.
>Futaba S3102 Metal Geared @ 51 in oz 1.1"HT x 1.17 L. x .51" W. with
>190
Hi Mike,
Sounds as if you are looking to increase effective control from the
limited servo movement?.
I have an assortment of various servo,s, and have used both the
following servo,s for steam engine R/C. For direct or indirect push pull,
or rotary controls.
Futaba S3102 Metal Geared
Gentelmen, In regards to "cheap " 2-3 channel R/C gear, take a look into the
Hobby Lobby catalog, or else the "Tower Hobby" catalog. In the past I've
been able to purchase good brand name equiptment for $20.00. Futaba, MRC,
and a few other companies offer some great dea
n with a 1" long "L" shaped lever into
> servo arm to increase torque.
>
> Thought I may need full rotation, so I Increased
> effective rotation and
> torque by fastening a 60 tooth x 1" dia gear wheel
> quadrant (cut in half),
> to the servo, and d
On 4/12/02 14:37, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I saw the commercial last night for those little tiny R/C cars that Radio
> Shack is now selling. Has anybody torn into one of those for a look at
> useable servos and parts? I heard that they were only
Post script on the R/C car:
The transmitter range was only about 3 feet. The local hobby shop showed my
son how to remove a 8 pf capacitor in the transmitter to extend the range.
With it removed the range is now about 8 feet.
The 8 pf capacitor looked to be a shunt to ground in the antenna
of sslivesteam
Subject: Re: R/C question
I saw the commercial last night for those little tiny R/C cars that Radio
Shack is now selling. Has anybody torn into one of those for a look at
useable servos and parts? I heard that they were only $20.
Bob
I saw the commercial last night for those little tiny R/C cars that Radio
Shack is now selling. Has anybody torn into one of those for a look at
useable servos and parts? I heard that they were only $20.
Bob
Have you fellows considered using a secondary 90 degree bellcrank to
transfer horizontal push-pull motion into vertical push-pull to control the
various valve controls? I am not familar with the layout of the engine
being discussed, just a thought. Also, as I remember some of the R/C units I
lever into servo arm to increase torque.
Thought I may need full rotation, so I Increased effective rotation and
torque by fastening a 60 tooth x 1" dia gear wheel quadrant (cut in half),
to the servo, and drove a smaller 20 tooth gear on the end of an R/C
wheels universal coupling driv
Walt;
Good post. I never thought of using telescoping square tubing. Great idea.
Plenty stiff and yet flexible going around curves. Have to try this .
Phil
> Hi,
> Some thoughts and observations on R/C for alcoholicser alky fired
loco's!
> The Aster Mikado is easy to R/C. I
Hi,
Some thoughts and observations on R/C for alcoholicser alky fired loco's!
The Aster Mikado is easy to R/C. I made a little fitting to go over the
existing handle
and connected via turnbuckle to the servo mounted with a strip of blackened
copper to the cab floor
I have found I r
t;[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 12:39 PM
Subject: R/C question
> My target loco is an Aster Alison shay.
> Scale is listed as 1:25 or 1:23 depending on who is listing the scale.
> Gary - selling my sparkies in Eugene, Oregon
> http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
Hi Geoff,
This was the direction I was heading for R/Cing my U1 232.i.e. open
one, close the other, with one servo. Simple, once you have defined the
servo rod lengths and positions on servo driver arm. Originally I tried
driving these from the tender with R/C car universal joints. OK when
My target loco is an Aster Alison shay.
Scale is listed as 1:25 or 1:23 depending on who is listing the scale.
Gary - selling my sparkies in Eugene, Oregon
http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor
Barry Harper of Diamondhead fame R.Cs his alky locos--no
> Barry Harper of Diamondhead fame R.Cs his alky locos--no problem. I forget
> how he controls the blower--but one servo could open the blower and close
> the regulator and vice versa.--this may be what he does. Those 1/32 cabs
> are small.
Further to which I now design my alcohol fired boilers w
ttp://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
>http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthorWhy do so many say it is
>impossible to R/C an alcohol fired loco?
>My logic says if a servo is available for throttle, blower, and reversing
>lever then the loco should be R/C controllable. What am I overlooking?
>
Same as a gas burner, they just don't have that blasted howling.
Steve Ciambrone
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 10:55 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> Subject: R/C question
>
>
Gary - chilling in Eugene, Oregon
http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthorWhy do so many say it is
impossible to R/C an alcohol fired loco?
My logic says if a servo is available for throttle, blower, and reversing
lever then the loco should be R/C
> And while I'm on the subject of the C-16, I think someone (Vance?) found
some small tools for the little screws and allen keys. Where can they be
bought?
Clark Lord suggested using Allen-head screws for sockets, and they do work
very well. I screwed one into a dowel and then turned it down s
Being fairly idle this week, I managed to complete the installation of two servos on
my Accu C-16 and took it outside for a test.
It was a great feeling when I turned on the tramsitter, moved the lever to put it in
gear, and it moved slowly off - spitting great gobs of oil and water, as usual.
Thanks, a completely different approach. I will examine that concept
tonight. You called it a steam stop valve which might explain how sensitive
it was to just the slightest change.
Sincerely
Steve Ciambrone
Sr. Test Engineer
L-3 Ocean Systems
Dunno what the hash is Steve but Excelsio
On Wednesday, October 3, 2001, at 05:17 pm, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote:
> Has anyone installed R/C into an Excelsior yet? The rear bunker is
> fitted
> with a R/C switch cutout as supplied and I have some ideas of what to
> do but
> would like to see how someone has at
Has anyone installed R/C into an Excelsior yet? The rear bunker is fitted
with a R/C switch cutout as supplied and I have some ideas of what to do but
would like to see how someone has attacked the same problem. I am only
interested in controlling the throttle at this point.
Sincerely
Steve
Chris,
Thanks for sharing the information with us.
Later,
Trent
In a message dated 09/17/01 11:03:33 AM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< http://webpages.charter.net/cwolcott/Ruby/RadioCtl.html >>
Chris
This worked fine for me this time. Thanks
Jim Crabb
Seabrook
It seems a lot of folks are having trouble with my web site. Below is
the actual URL of the frame source you're trying to get to:
http://webpages.charter.net/cwolcott/Ruby/RadioCtl.html
If you can't get that, try
html://webpages.charter.net/cwolcott/Ruby/images/RCSrvo1.jpg ,
RCSrvo2.jpg,
In a message dated 9/17/01 6:15:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< http://webpages.charter.net/cwolcott/Ruby/RubyMods.html >>
Chris,
You seem to have some sort of problem going on. On this url, all I get is a
bracket. On the other, I get a not found.
Bob
You may be getting CACHED versions. Several pages have changed names
and no longer exist. If you're getting a lot of 404 errors, clear your
cache and/or refresh the frames. (index.html itself has changed, I
don't know how to refresh a container. . . )
To the left there should be a set of IN
Chris, I'm not getting anything on that site but "Hello World".
-vance-
Let there be peace on earth, and let it begin with me.
Jill Jackson and Sy Miller
After much procrastination, I've finally updated my web site to show
pictures (if somewhat fuzzy) and plans of how I installed the RCS R/C
system in my Ruby. (No follower car required!)
Please point your browser to http://webpages.charter.net/cwolcott/ and
after getting coffee, follo
e 2" long. This is also the case if it touches anything
metal.
I may have misunderstood the article in Garden Railways and would certainly
appreciate any feedback otherwise.
Also, please understand that I'm NOT very knowledgeable on R/C equipment and am
only relaying what I had read a
he's found to "shorten" the antenna and still get
good reception is to cut a piece of cardboard or stiff plastic with pinking
shears, when wind the antenna wire around it so it is in a flat spiral, without
crossing over itself. (Did that make sense?) Jeff Young's upcoming ar
I'm planning on mounting my receiver under the cab in a psuedo-firebox
and running the antenna around the frame to the front pilot and back on
the other side. Will this work OK, or will the metal of the frame block
the signal? I can't think of a way to get it from under the cab to the
top of
Bob and Everyone,
First off, I am NOT criticizing the article on myLargescal.com. In fact I made
the exact same assumption that Dwight (the writer) did.
Looking over the R/C for Ruby article, I see where he made stops for the
Johnson Bar by drilling and tapping holes for two small bolts on
In a message dated 8/6/01 1:55:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
<< I haven't seen a better setup on the servos for a
Ruby so far. >>
Dwight is a real craftsman and deserves credit for his ideas. I have seen
some of his work in electric trains and it is nice to see the Ru
wight Ennis, I'm off to the shop to do some new modifications
to my Ruby's R/C setup (again). I haven't seen a better setup on the servos for a
Ruby so far.
Later,
Trent
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> There is an article at MyLargescale.com on installing RC in a Ruby written by
>
Chris,
There is an article at MyLargescale.com on installing RC in a Ruby written by
Dwight Ennis. He did put the recievers in a tender though. Nice brackets
for the servos though. Here is the page:
http://www.mylargescale.com/resources/articles/ruby/ruby01.asp
Hope this helps a little
Bo
Chris, Garden Railways will feature an article on installing R/C in the Ruby in
the October issue. There are photos of the installation that should give you
enough info to install one yourself, though it will take come cobbling. The
author put the entire system in the cab (!), using a
I just got an RCS R/C setup for my Ruby. Has anyone used one with a
RUBY? How did you end up placing you batteries, receiver, decoder and
servos? I'd like to keep my side tanks off, but I'm not sure were else
to put all the stuff. Also, how did you arrange you antenna?
Thanks!
Please do not use the Aircraft bands, since I also fly R/C Aircraft. Hitec
makes a nice Single stick 2-3 channels radios on 27Mhz and Dual stick 2
channel Radios on 27 and 75 Mhz at very reasonable prices. The Single stick
radios are sold with Micro servos. The micros servos sold separately
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