I am a little confused though. If you get a clear brew that you think
is primarily ionic,....the idea is that this immediately makes silver
chloride in the stomach and is quickly excreted. Silver chloride is
perhaps not good for argyria either? Im not clear on it yet. Making
silver citrate is supposed to circumvent this. After all of the posts,
you say your predominantly ionic brew is just what you want....
thanks
mg
On 1/20/2012 1:54 PM, Asif Nathekar wrote:
Hi Tony,
I use a circuit with a LM338T in a current control configuration
although a LM317T can also be used with exactly the same bias/control
values (I prefer the LM338T as I have read in a few places that in
current control application its much better behaved than the LM317T
especially in Low current scenarios such as <2ma which is where my
setup needs to be (also forget <1ma its pretty much useless for that -
which is why I only use it with large silver electrodes at 1.5ma ( I
will be migrating to a LM334Z setup ASAP due to its much vastly more
superior characteristics especially for the home brewer, However the
LM338T is very easy to control and bias with resisters that are easy
to obtain - hence why my current setup is based on this)
For details see
http://users.telenet.be/davshomepage/current-source.htm
I have also used a LM334z which was very, very well behaved, when I
wanted a travel Silver Generator for holidays, I used a flat 6 inch by
1/4" wide electrode and 2x9 volt batteries set at 0.3 ma. Although it
took 10 hours to produce 300ml at 18uS reading. Electrodes spaced 3
inches apart, and no agitation.
The LM334z is exceptionally well behaved for low current and has an
excellent voltage range!...Operates from 1V to 40V, Programmable from
1µA to 10mA.
Although because of the resister bias values it is a real pain to
control with resisters, my advice is to use a variable multiturn
resister of some sort to tweak it accurately, and to include diodes to
correct for temperature since its very sensitive to temperature.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm134.pdf
see page 7 for the diode temperature compensated diagram
and see below for the calculator
http://www.a-ling.net/alweb/hifi/lm334_ccs_t_calc/lm334_ccs_t.htm
I hope this helps
Peace to all
Asif.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tony Moody" <a...@new.co.za>
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 7:47 PM
To: <silver-list@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: CS>PPM vs uS
Hallo Asif,
Thank you for your detailed info. I have saved it because (I think)
it is info that is not common
knowledge here. What sort of current control are you using. I use a
simple fet circuit for the
1mA setting and it seems to work very well. I'm not sure that will
reliably turn down to .25mA
with a rod 1^2" area. Must try it soon.
Regards,
Tony Moody
On 20 Jan 2012 at 16:14, Asif Nathekar wrote about :
Subject : Re: CS>PPM vs uS
I asked the question and didn't realise that I kicked the hornets nest!
All I wanted to know is what ppm I was producing given a particular uS
reading!
But I have learnt a lot!
Since I am using a very low current per area and my electrodes are very
large and far apart, with current control I am producing high ionic
content CS ( i believe) and therefore my setup will not be very
representative of anything typical to anyone else and so I stop when
my Us
says around 20us , since it seems to be very stubborn to increase much
after that anyways indicating its done as much as it can. The CS is
clear
and metallic tasting and very effective to myself and others. Since
I am
happy with that I will leave it to that and think no more than that
On a
side note. I used to use a much higher current 1ma per square inch
with
less than double distilled water and was then able to produce CS much
faster and could brew it high enough to produce a slightly yellow brew.
Since I now double distill and use a very low current per square inch
(0.25ma per square inch) I haven't yet produced anything other than
clear
CS and haven't even needed any mechanical stirring as I previously did.
Although to produce. 3 litre batch takes 48 hours! Patience is a
virtue.
Since there is no yellow tinge and with my low current setup, I am
happy
my CS is of a good quality meaning the particles aren't large enough to
absorb and reflect light and filter it to make it appear yellow or
otherwise( again it is only my belief ). I will therefore now leave
it be
since its "good enough". Thank you again for the discussion. And please
continue educating and helping those like myself who seek knowledge and
those who are new to all this. Peace to all Asif.
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