from:"Scott Howell"

Re: [BlindHandyMan] home owner insurance

2010-08-31 Thread Scott Howell

I also have to add to this Jennifer and it is an unpleasant topic. Aside from 
what Dale has mentioned, you need to find out why your spouse is not motivated 
to address the issues and he needs to understand that without insurance, the 
entire family is at risk. If you have a mortgage on the property, it is likely 
one of the requirements is that appropriate homeowners insurance be maintained. 
If you cannot get him to understand these issues, you may need to seek outside 
assistance such as a counselor etc.
He needs to understand that this is a team effort and his participation is 
necessary and desired for success of obtaining insurance.
I wish you luck, you do have some issues ahead of you. I agree with Dale 
however, that you do need to determine what is the cause of these problems with 
the house as well.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!

2010-08-30 Thread Scott Howell

I have lost a little hair when cooking burgers, but I do not believe gas grills
are dangerous for blind people. My wife who is sighted did a rather silly
thing. She looked into the hole where a match can be inserted if the igniter
fails. She continued to press the igniter and damn near burned her face. She
never moved so fast and not realized it in her life. She did end up with some
singed eye brows and we can laugh about it now. THe point is if you take care
and pay attention to what you are doing, you will do just fine.
On Aug 30, 2010, at 12:55 PM, Dale Leavens wrote:

The thermometer on the face of my grill reads 650 degreesF when it runs off
the scale. I find that even with long handled tools the hairs of my forearms
tend to smoke. If something flares up while in there it gets pretty hot in a
hurry. Gloves are a good idea blind or sighted.

- Original Message -
From: RJ
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!

I don't like using a gas grill, but do use it with a glove that is made for
heat. It allows me to locate the food that I am cooking.

- Original Message -
From: Claudia
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 6:25 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!

Hi,

The honey I, being both totally blind, want to know how easy or difficult
it is to use a gas outdoor grill?
We're both pretty confident cookds, but something just scares me about the
whole gas thing!
I guess I'd like to know how doable it is?
Thanks.

Claudia

Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
Skype: claudiadr10

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Beware of that noisy hybrid car

2010-08-30 Thread Scott Howell

Tom, it is unfortunate this would be made optional, however, not surprising.
COnsider the fact that it seems to be optional when driving to use common sense
and attention to what and who is around you. Perhaps that puts things into
perspective just a bit.
On Aug 30, 2010, at 1:56 PM, Tom Fowle wrote:

Should be obvious it needs to sound like what it is! a car.
The stupid thing is that they are going to make it optional for the
idiot drivers.

What other safety feature is optional?

Tom Fowle

On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 02:16:07AM -0400, Spiro wrote:
I can understand wanting to cut down on traffic noise, but it should have
seemed obvious; just give it a car sound and be done with it.

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010, Ray Boyce wrote:

ONE of the world's quietest cars will use a fake engine noise to help save
lives.

Toyota has fitted its petrol-electric Prius, the world's best-selling
hybrid, with a speaker that emits an artificial sound to help warn
pedestrians of its approach.

General Motors, Nissan and Lotus are among other car makers set to follow
with similar pedestrian-alert systems as the motor industry responds to
criticism that hybrids such as the Prius endanger lives, particularly
those
of the blind.

Some safety groups have called hybrids silent killers, and research has
shown hybrids are more likely to be involved in low-speed accidents with
pedestrians because of their ability to run in virtual silence on battery
power alone with the petrol engine switched off.

Toyota's Approaching Vehicle Audible System device is mounted inside the
Prius's front bumper and makes an exaggerated, synthesised sound of an
electric motor up to speeds of about 25 km/h. The company says the system,
which costs about $170 in Japan, is under consideration for Australia.

Such warning tones are expected to become mandatory for hybrids and
electric
vehicles in the United States.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

2010-08-16 Thread Scott Howell

SOmetimes the lack of support is not as obvious. My wife and I had a bed that 
lasted for a long time and in fact we both thought it was still in great shape. 
HOwever, I was having problems with my neck and shoulder. After changing 
pillows we decided to try a new bed. Well sure enough, we switched to one of 
the Sleep COmfort Beds and that was the best decision we could have made. That 
and a good pillow has made a real difference in the quality of sleep I get.
On Aug 16, 2010, at 5:05 PM, Claudia wrote:

 Cy,
 
 Our mattresses are in great condition, from what we and other sighted people 
 can tell. There is no cradling, no unevenness, etc.
 I don't know!
 
 Claudia
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Cy Selfridge 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 3:26 PM
 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
 
 Claudia,
 
 I seriously doubt if the height of the bed is the problem with your
 husband's back.
 
 One of my daughters has a Sleep Number bed and that thing has got to be 40
 inches tall at the top of the mattress and it is ever so comfortable.
 
 I would suggest that it is the mattress or box springs which have seen
 better days and are not offering the support where your husband's back needs
 it.
 
 We replaced the water bladder with two twin air mattresses and we are much
 happier as each of us can adjust the air pressure in the mattress to what we
 want.
 
 I'll bet that you need a new mattress.
 
 Cy, The Anasazi 
 
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Claudia
 Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 2:12 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
 
 Si,
 
 I have no idea; I'd say that it's 6 to 8 inches from the ground!
 The problem is that my other half thinks that, due to the height of the
 frame, his back is constantly hurting.
 He tested his theory by sleeping on our son's bed, while we were out of
 town; he has a captain's bed, and he slept very well!
 So, this is why we're looking for a lower frame.
 
 Ours can't be lowered because it has four wheels and a stablizer bar, in the
 middle.
 
 Claudia
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Cy Selfridge 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:21 AM
 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
 
 Claudia,
 
 Sorry I ran across this after I posted my other response.
 
 Now, what exactly is the problem with the current bed frame?
 
 How high is the bottom of the box spring off of the floor currently?
 
 Cy, The Anasazi
 
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]
 On Behalf Of Claudia
 Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 2:16 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
 
 The new bed will also be a queen, with both matress  box spring.
 
 Claudia
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Cy Selfridge 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 2:13 PM
 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
 
 Claudia,
 
 First question, what size is the new bed?
 
 Second question, what type of bed is it, matress and box springs or some
 sort of air bed?
 
 Cy, The Anasazi 
 
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]
 On Behalf Of Claudia
 Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 12:31 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
 
 Okay,
 
 I need some explanation here.
 We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels. The bed
 has both its matress and box spring!
 The headboard is what's called a bookcase style. It's the width of the bed,
 with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle.
 We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.
 
 However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found. The beds don't
 seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base or
 frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed or
 not?
 
 As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some
 height; we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it seems
 that wood frames are the way to go. But, again, we also want this book case
 style headboard, and they're difficult to find.
 Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm
 thinking of doing.
 
 Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed
 itself? Am I right in thinking that you can't

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

2010-08-06 Thread Scott Howell

Claudia,

My wife and I had a similar headboard and we did not need to connect it to the
bed. It pretty much could stand on its own and the bed kept it pretty much from
ever moving. So, if your headboard can stand more or less own its own, you may
not have to worry about connecting it.

On Aug 6, 2010, at 2:31 PM, Claudia wrote:

Okay,

I need some explanation here.
We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels. The bed has
both its matress and box spring!
The headboard is what's called a bookcase style. It's the width of the bed,
with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle.
We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.

However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found. The beds don't
seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base or
frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed or not?

As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some height;
we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it seems that wood
frames are the way to go. But, again, we also want this book case style
headboard, and they're difficult to find.
Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm
thinking of doing.

Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed
itself? Am I right in thinking that you can't connect headboards to wooden
frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is this done? Would it be by drilling
holes into the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but since I don't have any sight,
all of what I'm picturing here has been things that I've only been able to
touch!

Claudia

Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
Skype: claudiadr10

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

2010-08-06 Thread Scott Howell

Ah, well with our new vacuum we do not have to move the bed. However, when we
had a similar arrangement, the headboard could stand on its own well enough
that we just pushed the bed over about 3/4 the width of the headboard, cleaned,
and then moved it 3/4 the other way. THe idea being is the bed was in contact
enough as to keep the headboard from having to work at standing on its own for
to long. grin. We did not move the bed and headboard because there was stuff on
it and well we could easily clean around all that.
On Aug 6, 2010, at 2:41 PM, Claudia wrote:

Scott,

How do you move the bed, if you guys want to clean there?
With the current grame, we can just wheel it from one side of the room to
the other because there's enough room.
That way, we can get under it!
I'm just trying to think of all the possible things we may run into.

Claudia

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

Claudia,

My wife and I had a similar headboard and we did not need to connect it to
the bed. It pretty much could stand on its own and the bed kept it pretty
much from ever moving. So, if your headboard can stand more or less own
its own, you may not have to worry about connecting it.

On Aug 6, 2010, at 2:31 PM, Claudia wrote:

Okay,

I need some explanation here.
We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels. The bed
has both its matress and box spring!
The headboard is what's called a bookcase style. It's the width of the
bed, with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle.
We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.

However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found. The beds don't
seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base
or frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed
or not?

As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some
height; we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it
seems that wood frames are the way to go. But, again, we also want this
book case style headboard, and they're difficult to find.
Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm
thinking of doing.

Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed
itself? Am I right in thinking that you can't connect headboards to
wooden frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is this done? Would it be by
drilling holes into the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but since I don't have any
sight, all of what I'm picturing here has been things that I've only been
able to touch!

Claudia

Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
Skype: claudiadr10

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

2010-08-06 Thread Scott Howell

Yep, most places will sell just a frame. Of course they sure wouldn't mind
selling you the entire bed, but hey I guess that is why they are salespeople.
grin
On Aug 6, 2010, at 6:19 PM, Claudia wrote:

Okay,

So, here is the latest thinking on this.
When we truly look at the whole bed, we don't think that the mattress and box
spring need to be replaced.
They seem to be in very good condition.
So, we're thinking of ordering the headboard that I mentioned from
www.walmart.com
and then, buying a frame once we know what to expect, in terms of the
headboard's set-up!

Can you purchase just the frames, whether they be metal or wooden, relatively
easily? Will furniture stores sell just frames?

Claudia

- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

Aloha Claudia,
You can purchase just a frame by itself. Some
metal frames have adjustable height. The legs are
kind of telescoping. The trick with those is to get them level.

Some of the wooden frames I have seen already
have holes that are supposed to be able to be used to connect to a headboard.
Betsy
At 08:31 AM 8/6/2010, you wrote:

Okay,

I need some explanation here.
We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal
frame with wheels. The bed has both its matress and box spring!
The headboard is what's called a bookcase style.
It's the width of the bed, with shelves on each
side and an open space in the middle.
We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.

However, we've been hunting, and this is what
we've found. The beds don't seem to have metal
or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood
base or frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a
headboard to this type of bed or not?

As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so
that gives the bed some height; we need
something that's a little lower to the ground,
so it seems that wood frames are the way to go.
But, again, we also want this book case style
headboard, and they're difficult to find.
Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put
together, and this is what I'm thinking of doing.

Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame
separately from the bed itself? Am I right in
thinking that you can't connect headboards to
wooden frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is
this done? Would it be by drilling holes into
the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but
since I don't have any sight, all of what I'm
picturing here has been things that I've only been able to touch!

Claudia

Windows Messenger:
mailto:cdelreal1973%40sbcglobal.netcdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
Skype: claudiadr10

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Scott Howell

Hey Alan,

I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not want
to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have to do
something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic thing the
unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer.

On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:

The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends
on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better
off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just get a
new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing the
right way.

Alan

Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
available upon request.

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Hi folks,

Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat
pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad,
remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, and
set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of course
this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a
contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit.
I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there is
it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, but
the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it is
better to protect it from the sun if possible.
The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is slowly
eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be
easy to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it up
enough to really get under there and build up the ground. However, perhaps
it is possible and any thoughts appreciated.

THanks,

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Scott Howell

Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions on the 
actual digging part here.
I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under the 
unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree without 
breaking lines and the like.
Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in order 
to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 3 to 4 
inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, I will need 
to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as much as possible 
with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything else? I am thinking 
that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump and I think the idea is 
water etc. runs under the unit and on down the hill. I wonder if building that 
up and trying to direct the water to run elsewhere would help. I know this is 
hard to describe, but all thoughts appreciated.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

 They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units come 
 with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.
 
 I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines to 
 the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the unit.
 
 I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they were 
 higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.
 
 Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.
 
 It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then 
 stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one end 
 at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.
 
 Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the 
 pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out 
 for it.
 
 Finally you will have to make a new pad.
 
 With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and 
 then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it 
 apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete 
 as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills up, 
 you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from 
 falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart. 
 Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for longer 
 than the unit will last.
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
  Hey Alan,
 
  I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not 
  want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have 
  to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic 
  thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer.
 
  On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
 
  The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends
  on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better
  off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just 
  get a
  new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
  probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing 
  the
  right way.
 
  Alan
 
  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
 
  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
   Hi folks,
  
   Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat
   pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad,
   remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, 
   and
   set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of 
   course
   this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a
   contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit.
   I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
   moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there 
   is
   it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, 
   but
   the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it 
   is
   better to protect it from the sun if possible.
   The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is 
   slowly
   eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be
   easy to dig under

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Scott Howell

Thanks Dan, I don't really look forward to the project since the ground here
has been so hard, but soon I will get on this project. I am hoping I can draft
my brother for labor since this will take some effort.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 7:34 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

Scott,

There is always a way. If they can jack up a house and rebuild the
foundation, you can jack up your heat pump. *GRIN*

I don't envy you the job of digging under it, or trying to stuff concrete
under there, but it sounds doable.

You may wish to dig a nice trench along the uphil side of the pad and then
along the front edge. Lay in a bunch of gravel, a perforated pipe wrapped
in a mesh sock, more gravel, and cover. The pipe will run along the uphil
side, then turn and go down along the front edge. This will carry the
water away without it washing out under the pad.

Happy digging.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Scott Howell

Thanks John, that is the direction I'm going to go here. I think what ground
has eroded, is probably done for the most part. THe unit does not seem to be
listing really all that bad, but enough to cause the housing to rattle and I'm
thinking once this is done, the world will be right as ever and I will then
enjoy being in the same yard with the evil beast.

Thanks,
On Aug 2, 2010, at 10:48 AM, John Sherrer wrote:

I have central air with natural gas heat. The outside unit is on a fairly
steep grade. The contractor used cinder block to level the ready made
concrete pad.
I had thought about filling it up with concrete under the pad, but it has
been their 18 years and have had no problems. We do have a very hard red clay
soil.
If you are going thru the trouble to move the unit, you may conceder making
your own pad with concrete. It is heavy work, but you would not be concerned
about it for as long as you live their.

John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 7:21 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Hi folks,

Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat pump.
THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad, remove the
existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, and set the pad on
the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of course this requires the
unit be pumped down and I would have to have a contractor come out and remove
and reinstall the unit.
I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there is it
would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, but the
HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it is better
to protect it from the sun if possible.
The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is slowly
eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be easy
to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it up enough to
really get under there and build up the ground. However, perhaps it is
possible and any thoughts appreciated.

THanks,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Scott Howell

Thanks John, I'll keep this in mind once I get in there and start digging 
around. The fun part will be balancing the monster while I work on it. But you 
know, I think it'll work just perfectly with patience.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 11:10 AM, John Sherrer wrote:

 You may not need to be concerned with the water problem since your ground is 
 hard,. The concrete should fill in with the ground and leave no gaps. If 
 the slope is higher than the pad, you definately will not have a problem.
 I would fill the whole pad with concrete and skip the gravel. The gravel 
 wsaves some of the back breaking work of mixing concrete since it reduces 
 your concrete needs. If the pad is made in such a way that it is always dry 
 you will have mo movement.
 In North Carolina where I live the soil will absorb gravel, so in a few 
 years it will be gone. But if kept dry, it will not happen. But with our 
 hard soil, we have no problems with pouring concrete directly on the clay.
 
 John
 http://WhiteCane.org
 http://BlindWoodWorker.com
 http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
 http://anellos.ws
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
  Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions 
  on the actual digging part here.
  I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under 
  the unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree 
  without breaking lines and the like.
  Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in 
  order to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 
  3 to 4 inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, 
  I will need to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as 
  much as possible with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything 
  else? I am thinking that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump 
  and I think the idea is water etc. runs under the unit and on down the 
  hill. I wonder if building that up and trying to direct the water to run 
  elsewhere would help. I know this is hard to describe, but all thoughts 
  appreciated.
 
  On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:
 
  They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units 
  come
  with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.
 
  I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines 
  to
  the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the 
  unit.
 
  I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they 
  were
  higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.
 
  Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.
 
  It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then
  stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one 
  end
  at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.
 
  Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the
  pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out
  for it.
 
  Finally you will have to make a new pad.
 
  With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and
  then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it
  apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete
  as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills 
  up,
  you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from
  falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart.
  Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for 
  longer
  than the unit will last.
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
   Hey Alan,
  
   I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do 
   not
   want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will 
   have
   to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this 
   plastic
   thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any 
   longer.
  
   On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
  
   The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It 
   depends
   on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be 
   better
   off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just
   get a
   new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
   probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth 
   doing
   the
   right way.
  
   Alan
  
   Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
   There, you'll find files of my

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heat pump rattling

2010-08-02 Thread Scott Howell

Yep, and only if it were that simple, I'd be so happy.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 11:30 AM, RJ wrote:

Have you checked the covers or panels to see that they aren't loose. Or the
belt isn't worn or off center. Or if there isn't some duct work that isn't
fasten? I would before pouring a pad.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Scott Howell

Thanks Bob, I think the challenge would be getting any pipe under there and
getting it below the frost line would be interesting. Of course I guess I need
to make sure there isn't anything I would want to hit. grin Actually the only
line I cannot account for is the waste line. My thought is it probably runs
from the back of the house, under the house, and out to the street. The only
reason I think this is the water line is in the front of the house, but the
sinks and other stuff is in the rear of the house. Ah what fun.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 1:55 PM, chiliblindman wrote:

If you want to keep it at the current location and level it, it can be
quite simple. There should be some play in moving the unit and at least one
direction. Move it so ever gently in one direction. On the side you moved
it from, cut galvinized conduit pipe length to go below frost line. Pound
at least 2 or three into the ground along that side leaving the top at the
level you want the bottom of the pad to be.
Now shift the pad over those pipes with a little extra and pound pipe
along the other side. Once in place just put something under the middle to
hold level.
Check under the pad to see what the base is like on the underside.
Some have partitions to add strength and other can have a foam concrete mix.
Keep in mind what kind of give there is in the copper lines.
.bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Scott Howell

Thank you sir, this is valuable info and I will file it for when I begin the 
project.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 4:38 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

 I wouldn't think 2 inches is necessary for something that light. The gravel 
 will let the water run through it without eroding the ground so much under 
 everything.
 
 I'd go with an inch of gravel myself. If you are on a slope, then you may 
 want to think about wings on the inside of the form. Put the closed end 
 at the upper part of the slope and then use a piece of half inch plywood on 
 the inside of the form to level everything out. The wings will touch the 
 ground and you can help keep the concrete from running under the edges of 
 the form that way.
 
 Depending on the amount of slope, you can use extra gravel on the downhill 
 side. Then just dump the concrete, I like Quikrete mix personally, in on 
 the gravel and let it set.
 
 As you probably know, you will most likely need a wing to help close in the 
 open end, to keep the gravel from running away. You know how things go when 
 you have to improvise.
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
  Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions 
  on the actual digging part here.
  I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under 
  the unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree 
  without breaking lines and the like.
  Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in 
  order to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 
  3 to 4 inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, 
  I will need to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as 
  much as possible with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything 
  else? I am thinking that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump 
  and I think the idea is water etc. runs under the unit and on down the 
  hill. I wonder if building that up and trying to direct the water to run 
  elsewhere would help. I know this is hard to describe, but all thoughts 
  appreciated.
 
  On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:
 
  They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units 
  come
  with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.
 
  I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines 
  to
  the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the 
  unit.
 
  I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they 
  were
  higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.
 
  Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.
 
  It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then
  stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one 
  end
  at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.
 
  Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the
  pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out
  for it.
 
  Finally you will have to make a new pad.
 
  With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and
  then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it
  apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete
  as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills 
  up,
  you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from
  falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart.
  Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for 
  longer
  than the unit will last.
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
   Hey Alan,
  
   I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do 
   not
   want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will 
   have
   to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this 
   plastic
   thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any 
   longer.
  
   On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
  
   The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It 
   depends
   on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be 
   better
   off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just
   get a
   new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
   probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth 
   doing
   the
   right way.
  
   Alan
  
   Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
   There, you'll find files of my arrangements

[BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-01 Thread Scott Howell

Hi folks,

Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat 
pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad, remove 
the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, and set the pad 
on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of  course this requires the 
unit be pumped down and I would have to have a contractor come out and remove 
and reinstall the unit.
I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond moving 
the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there is it would be 
exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, but the HVAC 
contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it is better to 
protect it from the sun if possible.
The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is slowly 
eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be easy to 
dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it up enough to 
really get under there and build up the ground. However, perhaps it is possible 
and any thoughts appreciated.

THanks,

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Copper/pex pipe comparison

2010-07-31 Thread Scott Howell

I don't know about all this health concerns business, but my parents have had 
pex in their home for over 10 years and have had no issues at all. A friend of 
mine switched over to CPVC when the copper lines in his house began to fail and 
he has had no issues at all. I would have to think that if there was such a 
health concern, these products would not be used. Copper may be superior in a 
number of ways, but surely copper, pex, or CPVC would not allow for any 
bacteria growth or it would not be used, but what do I know.
Here in our house we still have all of the copper lines, but the sinks have 
CPVC feeds off the main copper lines and we have had no issues either.
On Jul 30, 2010, at 9:33 PM, John Sherrer wrote:

 I have been told by a helth person that people should not even touch 
 polyethelene, even though it is found in some food products. Is it safe to 
 drink water from Tex.
 I have a house that uses well water and it will quickly corrode copper pipe.
 
 John
 http://WhiteCane.org
 http://BlindWoodWorker.com
 http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
 http://anellos.ws
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: RJ 
 To: handyman 
 Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 6:16 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Copper/pex pipe comparison
 
 http://www.plumbingnetworks.com/info/pex-copper/
 There are different fitting that can be used on pex pipe.
 
 xof PEX Piping and Copper Piping
 
 If you are like the rest of us non-plumbers, then there is a good chance 
 that you don't know which plumbing pipe is better. You may not even know 
 what a PEX pipe is. Relax: Not many of us do. We're not plumbers, but maybe 
 it's time that increase our basic knowledge so that we know what we are 
 getting and whether it is something we truly want. Once you know the basics, 
 you'll feel more comfortable to find a plumber to help you with your piping 
 needs.
 
 Now you're probably wondering what PEX piping is. Well, it is cross-linked 
 polyethylene pipe. After going through several processes, the material 
 becomes durable for extreme temperatures (hot or cold), creep deformation 
 which happens from long-term exposure to stress, and chemical attack from 
 acids, alkalies and the like. All of this makes PEX an excellent piping 
 substance for hot and cold water systems, especially since PEX is flexible 
 and well adapted for temperatures below freezing all the way up to 200° 
 Fahrenheit.
 
 As mentioned above, PEX is a good plumbing material because it is flexible 
 and easy for plumbers to install. PEX is also resistant to breaks in cold 
 weather and has fewer joints, bringing your costs down.
 
 Since copper piping has been around for decades, we know that the metal is 
 durable and flexible, making it easy to install - especially compared to 
 iron pipes. Copper piping also provides a biostatic atmosphere, making it 
 difficult for bacteria to grow inside of it, which is an important health 
 consideration.
 
 Copper also resists corrosion and is unaffected by ultraviolet rays, which 
 means it can be used for outside needs. This is unlike PEX pipes, which are 
 affected by ultraviolet rays and therefore should not be used outside. 
 However, copper can corrode due to the pH of the water if it is too acidic 
 or too basic for the pipes. But just because it corrodes doesn't mean that 
 the water is bad for you. Try to think of it like this: the Pacific 
 Northwest region of the US and, of course, Canada, has some of the best 
 drinking water in the world, but that very same water has a corrosive effect 
 on the pipes.
 
 So the choice between PEX and copper is solely yours, but keep in mind a few 
 of the advantages and disadvantages of each system before you decide.
 
 Some Advantages of PEX Are:
 1. Adaptable and easy-to-use plumbing system
 2. Can be used with hot and cold water
 3. Can also be used with metal and PVC piping
 4. PEX has fewer fittings, making it faster to install and with less of a 
 chance to leak
 5. PEX is more burst-resistant due to its flexibility to expand and contract
 6. It has a shutoff valve at each supply line, making it more convenient for 
 you when you have to get repairs done
 7. PEX can have a pressure balanced system
 8. Since it is flexible, the pipes can be bent around most corners and 
 usually won't need a coupling or fitting
 
 PEX Has Some Disadvantages that You Should be Aware Of:
 1. It cannot be used outside
 2. Cannot be recycled, due to its shorter life use
 3. It provides an impermeable membrane that may allow the possibility of 
 water contamination
 4. The pipes may be damaged if left outside for a long period of time
 
 The Advantages of Copper Are:
 1. Durable and flexible, making it easy to install
 2. Safer in natural disasters
 3. Weather and bacteria-resistant
 4. Resists corrosion, more so than other metals
 5. Unaffected by ultraviolet rays, so it can be used outside
 6. Copper does not release toxic gases in a fire because it resists burning
 7. In earthquakes, the slightly

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!

2010-07-24 Thread Scott Howell

Hey Michael,

I had not heard of a system that allowed for operation of the water etc. with 
the filter out. THis is of course a nice benefit in the event you do not have 
one and need to still use the water. I know the replacement process is pretty 
simple for all the units I have encountered. If they made the process to 
complicated,, no one would bother replacing the filter. grin
On Jul 23, 2010, at 10:58 PM, Michael baldwin wrote:

 i do not need to with mine,and it is a Kenmore.
 just twist and pull. i am guessing there is a valve that is turned when i
 have to twist the filter to disengage it. 
 My ice and water keep working with no filter installed as well.
 
 When replacing one, it is good to run water through the system, this helps
 to clean out any manufacturing debris, and purge air from the system.
 Michael
 
 _ 
 
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Max Robinson
 Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 12:07 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!
 
 Don't you have to shut off the water while changing the filter?
 
 Regards.
 
 Max. K 4 O D S.
 
 Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com 
 
 Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
 Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
 Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
 
 To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
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 mailto:funwithtransistors-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com 
 
 To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
 funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 
 Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 4:29 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!
 
  Hi Claudia,
 
  To the best of my knowledge, most will have these filters. You generally 
  will find the filter in one of two places. The first place is inside the 
  fridge, near the top. It may be a short cylinder, which hangs vertically 
  near the rear of the cabinet. Some filters are long cylinders that are 
  mounted horizontaly and generally mounted on either side of the cabinet.
  Another place you will find filters is at the bottom of the unit behind 
  the kick plate. In most cases you should not have to remove the kick plate
 
  to access the filter. In this case the filter will be mounted parallel to 
  the floor.
  Regardless of the configuration, these filters generally require just a 
  twist to unlock them from the mounting. You will find that most of these 
  filters will have a handle that you can grab to remove or install it and I
 
  have even seen one where you remove the filter, pull a cap off the bottom,
 
  which is actually a part of the fridge and matches the kick plate, and you
 
  put on the new filter, before installation.
  I hope this helps and there may be other configurations I am not aware of 
  that others can share.
  On Jul 22, 2010, at 11:14 PM, Claudia wrote:
 
  hi,
 
  Our fridge has a water dispenser. Are there filters that are supposed to 
  be changed periodically, and if so, where do I find these filters!
 
  Claudia
 
  Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
 mailto:cdelreal1973%40sbcglobal.net 
  Skype: claudiadr10
 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?

2010-07-24 Thread Scott Howell

I coudl not agree more. The safety devices were included for a reason and if
you remove or disable them, you automatically assume responsibility for the
risk of operating the device. In other words, once it has been proven you
rendered the safety features inoperable, you should really not be able to
request compensation from the manufacturer.
On Jul 24, 2010, at 5:46 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

This is truly a disgusting reflection on the legal system.

To reward some idiot for disabling any safety features that were available is
crazy.
I've researched this case for an article I am helping write for another list
I'm on. For those that don't know the details, here are the important ones.

The guy was working for a hardwood flooring company. He was using a bench
top saw, not on a table or bench top, but on the floor.

Next, he was trying to run a piece of 3 quarter inch thick by 2 and a quarter
inches wide piece of oak wood through the blade of this saw without any
available safety devices.

If you read the instruction manual for any saw, they advise having the blade
set so the teeth are just above the surface of the wood being cut.

Court papers show he had the blade set to 3 inches, almost 2 and a quarter
inches higher than recommended, and almost the limit for blade height on that
particular saw.

All table saw manufacturers recommend keeping the blade guard in place. This
one had been removed.

Anyone that uses a table saw knows the fence is required to make a straight
cut. The fence in this case was not on the saw either. The victim admitted in
court, both the blade guard and fence were not in place.

Finally, when he started the cut, he said the wood started to chatter so he
shut the saw down. He brushed the surface of the table clean and resumed his
cut. When the wood started chattering again, he started pushing harder,
completely opposite what you should do, and that is when his mishap occurred.

In the court papers, he admitted to having operated the saw while on one knee
on the floor. A completely off balance position.

It is important to note that the law suit doesn't involve the flooring
company this guy worked for.

This is an attempt to mandate that all saws carry the blade break system in
place on the SawStop brand.

The model saw used cost $159 from home Depot. A bench top saw is designed to
be lighter in weight, and is smaller so it can be used on a bench top. Adding
a blade brake would greatly increase the size of the saw, and probably make
it unsafe to sit on a bench. Not to mention the fact that you can forget
about $159 for a price. The same saw would most likely double in price if not
more.

If the congress really wants to do something productive, something that would
help all of us, they need to put a stop to law suits like this. Suing
McDonalds because you are fat, or because their coffee is too hot?

When I owned a shop years ago, we were all terrified as business owners when
some jerk picked up a running lawn mower and tried to cut his hedges with it.

This guy lost his finger tips but sued because there wasn't a warning label
saying a mower wasn't fit for trimming hedges.

His win in this law suit put a whole company out of business. You can't
legislate against stupidity. If I use a machine designed to cut something as
hard as oak wood, I know it won't have a problem cutting my fingers or hand
off.

If I take off the blade guard and fence and still try to cut wood, I deserve
any punishment the saw dishes out for being that stupid.

Have a problem paying for health insurance? Paying claims like these are what
helps boost the cost.
- Original Message -
From: Shane Hecker
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 4:35 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?

I thought this was interesting.

Shane

Feed: Productopia: The ConsumerSearch Blog
Posted on: Saturday, July 24, 2010 8:02 AM
Author: Catherine Jo Morgan
Subject: How much is a finger worth?

How about a hand? Do table saw
http://www.consumersearch.com/table-saw-reviews manufacturers have an
obligation to use the safest technology available? The first jury to consider
this question -- in a civil lawsuit against the maker of Ryobi table saws --
answered quite a definite yes, to the tune of a 1.5 million dollar award
http://www.boston.com/yourtown/malden/articles/2010/03/06/man_wins_15m_in_first_of_its_kind_saw_case/%20
to the plaintiff.

read
http://www.consumersearch.com/blog/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0?utm_source=RSSutm_medium=RSS
more

http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:yIl2AUoC8zA

http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:qj6IDK7rITs

http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:V_sGLiPBpWU

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!

2010-07-23 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Claudia,

To the best of my knowledge, most will have these filters. You generally will
find the filter in one of two places. The first place is inside the fridge,
near the top. It may be a short cylinder, which hangs vertically near the rear
of the cabinet. Some filters are long cylinders that are mounted horizontaly
and generally mounted on either side of the cabinet.
Another place you will find filters is at the bottom of the unit behind the
kick plate. In most cases you should not have to remove the kick plate to
access the filter. In this case the filter will be mounted parallel to the
floor.
Regardless of the configuration, these filters generally require just a twist
to unlock them from the mounting. You will find that most of these filters will
have a handle that you can grab to remove or install it and I have even seen
one where you remove the filter, pull a cap off the bottom, which is actually a
part of the fridge and matches the kick plate, and you put on the new filter,
before installation.
I hope this helps and there may be other configurations I am not aware of that
others can share.
On Jul 22, 2010, at 11:14 PM, Claudia wrote:

hi,

Our fridge has a water dispenser. Are there filters that are supposed to be
changed periodically, and if so, where do I find these filters!

Claudia

Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
Skype: claudiadr10

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!

2010-07-23 Thread Scott Howell

I have not heard of any need to shut off the water. THe fridge will have an
interlock that will disable use of the ice maker and water dispenser while you
change the filter. In fact with the filter that is inside the fridge cabinet,
typically opening the door is sufficient for disabling the use of water.
SO, you do not need to shut off the water supply to change the filter and if
you do, find another brand of fridge because that surely would be a very poorly
designed unit.
On Jul 23, 2010, at 1:28 PM, RJ wrote:

Only if you don't want water all over the place. There should be a shut off
at the filter.
RJ
- Original Message -
From: Max Robinson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!

Don't you have to shut off the water while changing the filter?

Regards.

Max. K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
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Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

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- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 4:29 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!

Hi Claudia,

To the best of my knowledge, most will have these filters. You generally
will find the filter in one of two places. The first place is inside the
fridge, near the top. It may be a short cylinder, which hangs vertically
near the rear of the cabinet. Some filters are long cylinders that are
mounted horizontaly and generally mounted on either side of the cabinet.
Another place you will find filters is at the bottom of the unit behind
the kick plate. In most cases you should not have to remove the kick plate
to access the filter. In this case the filter will be mounted parallel to
the floor.
Regardless of the configuration, these filters generally require just a
twist to unlock them from the mounting. You will find that most of these
filters will have a handle that you can grab to remove or install it and I
have even seen one where you remove the filter, pull a cap off the bottom,
which is actually a part of the fridge and matches the kick plate, and you
put on the new filter, before installation.
I hope this helps and there may be other configurations I am not aware of
that others can share.
On Jul 22, 2010, at 11:14 PM, Claudia wrote:

hi,

Our fridge has a water dispenser. Are there filters that are supposed to
be changed periodically, and if so, where do I find these filters!

Claudia

Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
Skype: claudiadr10

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator filter instructions

2010-07-23 Thread Scott Howell

This sure is a lot more work than is absolutely necessary. I have not had to
drain water from the filter system. I simply open the fridge, twist the filter
loose, and just make sure things look good in there, and finally install the
new filter. I wonder if these instructions are for a particular fridge.
On Jul 23, 2010, at 4:25 PM, RJ wrote:

When you are going to change and add your refrigerator water filter
replacement, ensure that you have at least cut down the supply of water. It
will hasten the replacement process.

3. Reduce the pressure that is present in your filter.

Besides the water supply, you must also lower down the pressure that you can
find inside your existing refrigerator water filter. You do not want the
sudden outburst of water to hinder your ability to change your water filter.
What's more, it makes things much messier, and you will be dealing with a
lot of cleanup later on.

4. Remove the filter casing.

Water filters are usually protected with casing. For you to successfully add
your refrigerator water filter replacement, you have to remove the casing at
least temporarily.

It is so much convenient for you to do this process first as you exactly
identify the water filters. To remove it, you may have to unscrew the bolts
first.

5. Clean the filtration system.

Do not automatically replace the refrigerator water filter. You still have
to clean the casing and the entire area first. Watch out for any present
debris, impurity, and sediment that can mix with your water and your new
filter.

http://www.allwaterpurification.com/replace-refrigerator-water-filter.html

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] iPhone SIM card question

2010-06-26 Thread Scott Howell

Dale, from what I recall, you could use a different simm card, but all the
details I am not sure of. THe iPhone does use a standard simm card.
On Jun 26, 2010, at 11:55 AM, Dale Leavens wrote:

Those of you with iPhones might be able to tell me if they have a SIM card?
Can I install one in Europe and use the phone like a local phone there?

The in-laws don't have Internet and I would dearly love to be able to keep
connected while there.

Thanks.

dale leavens.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jaw Horse

2010-06-21 Thread Scott Howell

The Lowes in Frederick Maryland had them for $159. I grabbed one knowing it
would come in handy for some door projects my wife and I need to do this Fall.
I also have some other plans for the device as well.
On Jun 21, 2010, at 9:42 AM, Alan Terrie Robbins wrote:

Dan

What was the price @ Loes? Did you stumble on the special by accident or how
did you learn of it?

Al
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 9:16 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse

I just picked one up today. They were having a special at Lowes, and I
had a gift card. It has three legs, two in front, and one further back
along a rail. The top rail holds two clamping jaws. They can open to
about 24 inches I think. There is a foot peddle that you can use to close
the jaws of the clamp.

The jaws extend beyond the legs so that you can hold items by their edge,
vertically. The picture shows a door being held vertically in place while
the hinges are positioned on the door jam.

The claim is that clamping force is 2200 pounds.

Looks pretty handy.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jaw Horse

2010-06-21 Thread Scott Howell

Dan,

The DVD does show instructions on setting it up etc. My wife and son found it
interesting, but it is not overly useful to a blink.
The jaw seems to slide regardless of the lock setting, but I suspect the lock
does play a role in preventing it from sliding back. Now how exactly I am not
sure, but I do believe (from memory) if the lock is pressed down, it is in the
locked position and the foot peddle can be locked in the depressed state. So,
if the foot peddle is pressed and does not return, you will know why and if you
unlock it, you will want to have a foot on it. I think there is enough kick in
that spring, that if it flew back and your shin was in the way, it would hurt
like hell.
I do like the idea that you can remove the jaw and turn it around to get up to
37 inches of jaw capacity. I am not sure I would need the extension to take it
out to 48 inches, but I am thinking there may be uses for the worktable
accessory. I have not checked them all out, but they also have the miter saw
attachment, but I bet you could fabricate something.
Of course what do I know, I have not really tried much with this yet.

On Jun 21, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

The horse weighs 43 pounds so there is definitely some heft to it. but it
makes it feel pretty solid. I haven't done anything with it yet, short of
taking it out of the box and setting it up and trying to get used to it's
parts.

One review I read said to make sure you don't try and clamp it with the
switch in the unlock position. I am not exactly sure how the whole clamp
thing works yet, so I am going to have Teresa take a look at the manual
just to make sure I know what locked and unlocked means. There is a slide
switch on the front, but from 30 seconds of toying with it, I'm not sure
exactly what that switch does. I was able to slide the jaws, by hand,
with the switch in either position. I think it has to do with the foot
peddle though.

It comes with a CD / DVD, I brought the disk to work with me today, but
don't hold much hope that it will offer anything useful to a blink. I'll
give it a shot and let you know what I find.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] JawHorse Manual

2010-06-21 Thread Scott Howell

Ah thanks for all that info Dan. Now I know I can horse around with success. I
know my wife will enjoy horsing around with the jaws as well.
On Jun 21, 2010, at 12:04 PM, Dan Rossi wrote:

I didn't have much luck with the DVD, there isn't anything on it other
than videos. I did find the PDF User Manual on the web though. Not much
to it. Basically, with the lock release switch in the up / release
position, you manually slide the moving jaw and clamp the work piece
between the two jaws. Then flip the lever down to the lock position and
use the foot peddle to apply pressure. The foot peddle will lock in
place. You can use the foot peddle to slide the moveable jaw as well. It
moves one inch per peddle push.

TO release, flip the lever up, and press down on the foot peddle to
release it.

The lever should be in the release position when you fold up the unit.

That's about all I got out of it. Other than things like don't burn it,
use it as a hammer, blah blah blah. The foot peddle will take 220 pounds,
don't jump on it. Maximum clamping force is 2200 pounds. Guess that
means there is a 10 to 1 ratio between downward force on the peddle and
clamping force.

Happy horsing.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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[BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Hi good people,

Well let me tell you a little story and try not to bore you to tears or 
make this a super long message.  My wife and I walk by this home and have done 
so for several years. She has always commented on how lovely the house looks 
and incredibly it went on the market about 10 days ago. Apparently the couple 
that owned it has passed on and the kids have decided to sell the property.
So, here is a description, which will help set the tone of the 
question. The house is a custom-built Rambler, constructed in 1954, and is all 
brick. The house is not very large (according to the tax record is 1,500 square 
feet) and has a living room, dining room, kitchen, full bath, and four 
bedrooms; on one level. I neglected to bring a tape when we took a tour, but 
think I would if we take another look. There is an attic with a fixed set of 
stairs and it has flooring down and the roof is not plywood, but (I can't think 
of the correct name) some sort of planks with shingles over that. The basement 
is partially finished with solid pine paneling and interesting it has a solid 
block wall running down the middle and apparently this was common in the 50's. 
It has an oil-fired boiler that provides baseboard heat and it does have 
central air, but that was added later and the air handler is in the attic and 
the vents are in the ceiling.
Ok, so the purpose of describing this house is I am curious what things 
I should be looking for if we seriously entertain the idea of purchasing it. I 
understand there is a breaker panel and not a fusebox. However, let me mention 
a couple other things as well. There is a separate two-car garage that does 
have a fusebox, but this is a very substantial structure that they even put in 
some ceiling fans since one of the kids used to detail cars in there. In 
addition, there are two (I know this sounds nuts) walk-in freezers. I am 
talking freezers that are stand-alone buildings. Apparently this gent used to 
cut up meat for people if they would bring him the animal. Now the freezers are 
no longer operational, but they have been used for storage and either would 
make an excellent workshop. Oh as a side note, they are tossing in two 
tractor/mowers, a big walk-behind mower, and a snow blower. SO, honestly, the 
only issues for me is little if any closet space and that apparently was common 
in the 50[s as well and I know I would have to install a dish washer and a few 
other changes. The place has all hardwood floors under carpet and I can't 
imagine it would take much to fix these up. So, of course I am researching 
whether I could purchase the place that does sit on 2.5 acres and gee I could 
sell one of them and make half my investment bak.
So, again, what stuff should I look at that could really be an issue for a home 
of this age. Btw, I did not smell any wet oders or anything that would indicate 
leaking of the basement or house in general. 
SOrry for going on so, but hope it planted some neat images. As one final side 
note/question, the windows are the single-pane type with storm windows. The 
agent showing the home tried to tell me these are more efficient than the newer 
double-pane windows and I think he's way-off-track on this. I remember these 
growing up and having ice on the inside. So, is it possible that these could 
really be efficient in some way? Just curious.

Thanks

Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Dan,

Thanks and I would get a home inspector or my brother-in-law who might
as well be one. I did run my hands along the exposed walls in the basement
where I could get without the agent thinking I was nuts, but I did not notice
any cracks or things flaking off. I also neglected to mention that the ac and
heating systems are about two or three years old, which is nice. All doors we
checked out seem to be in good working order, but I would want to go back and
try them again.
Thanks for the tips and input. Unfortunately, this house did not have a pig to
remove, but that would have been neat. grin
On Jun 14, 2010, at 8:45 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

Scott,

You don't know what an old house is. Built in the fifties is like brand
new. *GRIN* My house was built in the twenties, and one of the Toms on
the list is working on a house that's over a hundred years old.

Get a home inspector to go through the house. He can find lots of issues
if you want. Check the wiring to make sure it is grounded to all outlets
and such. I don't think they started using Aluminum wiring until the
sixties, so you should be OK there.

Look for cracking in the foundation walls.

Look for patches in the ceilings to see if there has been issues with
water damage in the past.

Do doors and windows open and close without binding. That can mean
something as innocent as a poorly hung door, or just humidity expansion,
but can also indicate shifting of the house.

I'm sure you will get many other responses for things to look for as well.
But a home inspection by a pro can be very useful. You can also get an
inspection by a structural engineer if you are so inclined.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Dale,

Well one thing they did is switch over to electric for heating water 
and I agree the windows would be first on my list probably. I do need to 
checkout the electric situation again since I did not look for every outlet. I 
have to admit that although they had the ac on to keep the house comfortable 
for folks doing a walk-through, it seemed like it was insulated pretty well 
since the ac never kicked on while we were their. I would of course have to 
check out the insulation and on that note the roof actually is very new. 
Apparently these people didn't just fix something, they had it removed and 
replaced. Apparently perfect working order meant literally perfect working 
order. I did not notice even a sound from the floors, which was surprising. I 
have obviously to check this out further and also another note, apparently 
selling the land would not be a problem and it was more a thought than 
something I would probably do. I think at the end of the day, I probably will 
not be able to unload/rent what I have and that would kill the deal for me, but 
I might as well check it out.
Thanks for the input.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Paul,

Thanks, I have mixed feelings, but I see a lot of potential in this home and 
certainly in the property. In fact I even see where it would be possible to add 
on to the existing home or even build a new one since there is sufficient land 
on which to build. The water/suage system is connected to the public service, 
but older pipes certainly are a concern and something I would also want to 
check, as well as the insulation. This is purely a Gee if I can deal. I 
appreciate the advice and feedback from everyone.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Yeah, that is the only problem; finding a good inspector. I have had two homes
inspected and both missed important stuff. However, you get a good one and you
are correct, they can find the really small, but yet important stuff.
On Jun 14, 2010, at 9:36 AM, Lenny McHugh wrote:

Dan,even you have a new home. Mine was built in the 1880s. But I must agree
what yousaid. I really would get a good inspector. I saw one report where
they indicated a scratch in the tub.
- Original Message -
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

Scott,

Look for cracking in the foundation walls.

Look for patches in the ceilings to see if there has been issues with
water damage in the past.

Do doors and windows open and close without binding. That can mean
something as innocent as a poorly hung door, or just humidity expansion,
but can also indicate shifting of the house.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement stairs

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Congrats my friend. I eventually will have to learn about how to build steps
myself and luckily not quite as many as you. grin.

On Jun 14, 2010, at 9:36 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

I can now mostly, safely, traverse from the first floor of my house, to
the basement, without having to leave the house. The last step is a bit
of a doozy since I haven't completed the landing, so there is a
double-high step at the bottom.

As per usual, my design far exceeded any actual skill I might possess.
Overall, I believe the stairs look pretty nice, albeit, with a few
imperfections showing here and there.

On two or three of the treads, the nose does not seat completely against
the stringer, leaving a very slight gap. There is one noticeable notch in
the corner of a tread where I made a booboo with my router. I was using a
plunge router with the multi-step little doodad. Well, I turned the
doodad the wrong way, and instead of plunging 1/4 of an inch, I plunged
3/4 of an inch before I realized what I did.

Apparently, looking from the bottom up, the illusion is that the steps are
sloping. The problem is that the treads are dead level, but the kitchen
floor isn't. So when you are looking up the stairs, you see a noticeable
difference between the edge of the top tread, and the kitchen floor.

I completely screwed up the bottoms of the stringers, but can essentially
compensate for that when I build the landing.

I routed a decorative Roman Ogee profile on the inside top edge of the
stringers.

Lifting the stairs into place was challenging, but not impossible. I just
kept lifting the upper end and wedging boards between the floor and one of
the treads, until it was wedged into place.

I hope to finish the lower landing this week, then I just need to think
about a railing at some point.

I'm just happy to be able to walk up and down to and from the basement
again.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Thanks Bill and all good points to keep in mind. See I knew I was asking the
experts.
On Jun 14, 2010, at 10:53 AM, Bill Gallik wrote:

The roof and basement would be my chief concerns. The roof may need new
shingling and possibly some roofing board replacement. The basement
(foundation) may have cracks or compromised structure if a cement block
foundation. Also, windows and doors should be carefully inspected to make
sure they close properly -- not doing so would indicate a structural problem
an even if they close properly you might need to think about window
replacement because I can't believe that those windows could possibly be as
efficient as modern windows.

As for the plumbing, if it's galvanized pipe keep in mind that that material
tends to grow inside and limit water flow as well as compromise material
strength.

And finally, will the electrical system hold up under modern appliance
requirements?

I'd hire a professional inspector and make certain he/she is aware you have
these concerns.

Holland's Person, Bill
E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
- By trying we can easily learn to endure adversity -- another man's I mean.
- US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Hi ALan,

Actually I do not believe it is required because when I sold my home, the buyer 
waived it. I was very surprised, but apparently his only interest was in me 
getting the hell out of the house so he could move in. I think he would have 
packed the truck for me if I had asked. In any event if I decide to purchase 
the home, I would either get an inspector and most likely would or hire my 
brother-in-law who would provide a very fair assessment of the property. The 
only thing preventing me is how much debt I want to take on. As long as I have 
a renter, I would be about where I am and perhaps ahead or even if I sold it I 
would be fine. However, if I rented and purchased the other house and then had 
a renter default, I would have to really crank in my belt. I would prefer to 
rent then sell, so told my wife don't get your hopes up. There will be other 
opportunities and if it was to be, it would happen. I could put the money into 
this place and ready it for sale. I then could go out shopping for something we 
really want and sacrifice nothing. Of course with the market the way it is, I 
wait long enough, I will improve my position and that house will drop in price. 
grin.

tnx,
On Jun 14, 2010, at 12:18 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:

 The guy's full of it. The house I grew up in was of that type. The glass 
 was always cold and formed ice. You could put storm windows on the outside 
 which would give you several inches between the windows which would help. 
 Isn't inspections mandatory in your state with selling a home?
 
 You should hire an inspector who does this for a living. It's not what you 
 can see but rather what you can't. Water damage, dry rot, termites etc. 
 Those things often can't bee seen and it takes somebody who is trained in 
 knowing what to look for. The inspection is mandatory in many states and 
 the home owner should have that done in order to sell the house. If your 
 state doesn't require it, you can hire a professional to do the job for you. 
 The fee is around 400 to 500 dollars but if your really serious about buying 
 it it's well worth the price especially if you live in an area with high 
 humidity.
 
 Alan
 
 Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
 There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
 the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
 
 The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
 available upon request.
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 4:03 AM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for
 
  Hi good people,
 
  Well let me tell you a little story and try not to bore you to tears or 
  make this a super long message. My wife and I walk by this home and have 
  done so for several years. She has always commented on how lovely the 
  house looks and incredibly it went on the market about 10 days ago. 
  Apparently the couple that owned it has passed on and the kids have 
  decided to sell the property.
  So, here is a description, which will help set the tone of the question. 
  The house is a custom-built Rambler, constructed in 1954, and is all 
  brick. The house is not very large (according to the tax record is 1,500 
  square feet) and has a living room, dining room, kitchen, full bath, and 
  four bedrooms; on one level. I neglected to bring a tape when we took a 
  tour, but think I would if we take another look. There is an attic with a 
  fixed set of stairs and it has flooring down and the roof is not plywood, 
  but (I can't think of the correct name) some sort of planks with shingles 
  over that. The basement is partially finished with solid pine paneling and 
  interesting it has a solid block wall running down the middle and 
  apparently this was common in the 50's. It has an oil-fired boiler that 
  provides baseboard heat and it does have central air, but that was added 
  later and the air handler is in the attic and the vents are in the 
  ceiling.
  Ok, so the purpose of describing this house is I am curious what things I 
  should be looking for if we seriously entertain the idea of purchasing it. 
  I understand there is a breaker panel and not a fusebox. However, let me 
  mention a couple other things as well. There is a separate two-car garage 
  that does have a fusebox, but this is a very substantial structure that 
  they even put in some ceiling fans since one of the kids used to detail 
  cars in there. In addition, there are two (I know this sounds nuts) 
  walk-in freezers. I am talking freezers that are stand-alone buildings. 
  Apparently this gent used to cut up meat for people if they would bring 
  him the animal. Now the freezers are no longer operational, but they have 
  been used for storage and either would make an excellent workshop. Oh as a 
  side note, they are tossing in two tractor/mowers, a big walk-behind

Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Well I think in his case, he's just clueless because even I knew these windows 
would not be efficient, but hey, it has been so long since I lived in a house 
with these windows, I had forgotten how bad they were. grin.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Betsy, you are correct and although I am sure he is generally an honest enough 
person, I know he has to make the sale and in these difficult market 
conditions, they will twist their own ethics to get what they want. I spoke to 
the gal that sold me my home and asked her to represent us if we decide to go 
forward. I however, might just pull my horns in and focus on other things for 
now. We are not in need of a new home, but this was one of those Gee that 
would be cool sort of situations and something we wanted to explore. There are 
a lot of attractive options here, but not having owned a home of this age, I 
wanted to see what others thought. So, it is nice being in a position where I 
can do something if I wanted to live on the edge or just sit tight and stash my 
cash. It feels good to have options and that has not always been the case. grin.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Tom, I'm in Maryland and they are asking $349,000, which honestly the land 
alone is probably worth that much itself.

On Jun 14, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Tom Fowle wrote:

 Don't know where in the country you are, but if there is any risk of earth
 quakes, I think presumably un reinforced brick would be a real earthquake 
 problem.
 
 Otherwise it sounds very nice, maybe you shouldn't tell us
 where you are and what they're asking, many of us would probably cry!
 GRIN
 Tom Fowle near San Francisco which is still either overpriced or no where 
 you'd
 want to live.
 
 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the tips and information. It sounds like you had quite a staff
working on your behalf. grin.

On Jun 14, 2010, at 8:49 PM, William Stephan wrote:

Scott: you've gotten a lot of good suggestions here. My house was built in
1927, and has generally been well maintained. My wife was living in
southern California and I was bivouacking in an apartment in downtown Kansas
City when we bought the place in 2004. We were planning significant
remodeling, and so the choice of a contractor as well as the inspection were
critical for us. My personal practice is to try and only do business with
people who have the resources to either pay up or settle if I have to sue
them later on, and apparently the inspection outfit I dealt with understood
that. I think I paid about $600 for the inspection and the resulting
report, which was thorough and very professionally done. I actually used
the report as a basis for preparing the request for offer for all the little
minor stuff, e.g. replacing the garage door, some paving etc.

The team I had consisted of a structural engineer, a plummer, an
electrician, a roofer, a heating and ac guy and a pest control fellow.
Apparently these guys are all engaged in their respective trades but are
partners in the inspection company. In addition to finding stuff I would
surely have missed, they were also able to date the major appliances and
predict how much longer they'd live before I needed to replace them, and so
far, they've been mighty close. My realetorwas/is a niece of a good friend,
so I let her pick the inspection service. Had I not had that kind of
relationship I

Probably would have done the research and hired my own inspection firm just
to keep everybody honest.

I'd be a little leary about the carpet too. I have a friend who took up
carpet in the house she just bought, and apparently, the hardwood floor
underneath it had been burned pretty badly and had to be replaced.

Good luck.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 14:39
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

Tom, I'm in Maryland and they are asking $349,000, which honestly the land
alone is probably worth that much itself.

On Jun 14, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Tom Fowle wrote:

Don't know where in the country you are, but if there is any risk of earth
quakes, I think presumably un reinforced brick would be a real earthquake
problem.

Otherwise it sounds very nice, maybe you shouldn't tell us
where you are and what they're asking, many of us would probably cry!
GRIN
Tom Fowle near San Francisco which is still either overpriced or no where
you'd
want to live.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Few AC questions for outside unit only

2010-05-17 Thread Scott Howell

Matt,

If you can reach the junk at the bottom of the unit by removing the side panel,
you probably do not need to remove the top and in fact I would avoid doing so
unless you must. Not knowing what type of unit you have, let me describe how I
have cleaned mine. I can remove the side panel and reach everywhere inside the
unit, including the fan on the top. The fan on my unit is bolted to the top
half of the outdoor unit and the coil goes around three sides of the unit.
There is a wire cage that is screwed into the top and bottom halves of the
unit, so removing the top would be a challenge in any case. So, all I did was
to clean out the bottom and then take a hose and spray from the inside out,
which got all the crap off the coil I could not otherwise get with a vac.
Whatever you do, don't make the job any more difficult. grin I think some may
have to remove the top if there is not a panel on the side that would give
access to all parts of the unit. My unit actually is rather empty inside with
the fan at the top and the compressor at the bottom and a bundle of wires in
between.
I hope this helps some and if the unit is fairly new, you probably won't have
to oil anything.

Best of luck,

Scott

On May 17, 2010, at 10:12 AM, Matt wrote:

My main questions, before you have to read all this are, 1 what's the fuzzy
coiled rope looking thing inside the outside unit.
2 Do I have to remove screws from around outside of the top of the unit and
lift the whole fan out in order to gain access to all sides and the inside of
the unit to get at all possible debris?

I'm still pondering the AC stuff, I took my drill out yesterday and opened
the only side panel I could find.
I had cut off all breakers to inside and outside unit before hand.
So I explored around in there.
Not much to do from there that I could tell.
I see a coiled like rope, or hose looking thing, it's fuzzy textured. I blew
it off a little with the air hose from the air compressor, and vacuumed at it
a bit with a shop vac. Just playing, lightly as not to hurt anything and
mainly exploring at this point. Unit's working fine for now, I did not want
to do the water hose thing yet, as I just wasn't in the mood to get sopping
wet and be in a big puddle.
I blew out and sucked out all the vents around the unit. I did very little
good, and no harm as yet.
I did use my shop-vac to suck a lot of grass and junk out of the bottom of
that little panel.
I noticed many of the same sorts of screws around a lip around the top of my
unit, These are on the outside, facing my stomach you understand, not on top
facing the sky.
From what I have read on line, are you supposed to remove those and lift the
fan totally out to get to the inside of the unit to clean in there?
I have not tried this yet.
Someone told me not to remove screws from the top of the unit if I found them
there as that was what held the fan and if you remove those the fan drops.
I'll put my questions right up top.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Few AC questions for outside unit only

2010-05-17 Thread Scott Howell

Matt,

Not sure about the thing you are describing. The coil is rough, but it is very 
thin strips running vertically and it is sort of fragile in that pressing on it 
can damage the fins. This probably surrounds the fan, but you should be able to 
access it I would think because the compressor is or should be in the bottom of 
the unit. In my unit which is a heat pump, this is a dome-shaped unit, which is 
covered in a weather-proof plastic-type material. You can feel the fins of the 
coil through the front of the unit or sides of the unit, assuming the vents 
allow you to insert a finger. If your unit has solid panels all around the 
unit, it is possible then you would have to remove the top in order to reach 
the inside of the unit. If that is the case, you likely only need to remove the 
screws around the top edge and take care when lifting to avoid pulling out the 
wires that connect the fan. Beyond this, I do not know how those wires are 
connected, but likely they are plugged in and would be easily removed. I wish I 
could provide more thoughts, but perhaps others on the list may be familiar 
with that model if you can provide its manufacture and model.
On May 17, 2010, at 3:09 PM, Matt wrote:

 I couldn't tell that I could get around the coil, I'm assuming that's what 
 the fuzzy brillow pad type feeling coil of chord or whatever it is in there. 
 I never found the fan, figure it is behind or in that coil, I saw a couple of 
 wires down near the back where the two lines go in, one being the copper, and 
 the other being the one which is covered with pipe insolation. I'll open the 
 panel and look again soon but it looks pretty full to me in there, and I 
 don't think that I can reach much beyond stuff on that side. The house and 
 air and all is only around 7 to 8 years old.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 11:36 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Few AC questions for outside unit only
 
 Matt,
 
 If you can reach the junk at the bottom of the unit by removing the side 
 panel, you probably do not need to remove the top and in fact I would avoid 
 doing so unless you must. Not knowing what type of unit you have, let me 
 describe how I have cleaned mine. I can remove the side panel and reach 
 everywhere inside the unit, including the fan on the top. The fan on my unit 
 is bolted to the top half of the outdoor unit and the coil goes around three 
 sides of the unit. There is a wire cage that is screwed into the top and 
 bottom halves of the unit, so removing the top would be a challenge in any 
 case. So, all I did was to clean out the bottom and then take a hose and 
 spray from the inside out, which got all the crap off the coil I could not 
 otherwise get with a vac.
 Whatever you do, don't make the job any more difficult. grin I think some may 
 have to remove the top if there is not a panel on the side that would give 
 access to all parts of the unit. My unit actually is rather empty inside with 
 the fan at the top and the compressor at the bottom and a bundle of wires in 
 between.
 I hope this helps some and if the unit is fairly new, you probably won't have 
 to oil anything.
 
 Best of luck,
 
 Scott
 
 On May 17, 2010, at 10:12 AM, Matt wrote:
 
  My main questions, before you have to read all this are, 1 what's the fuzzy 
  coiled rope looking thing inside the outside unit.
  2 Do I have to remove screws from around outside of the top of the unit and 
  lift the whole fan out in order to gain access to all sides and the inside 
  of the unit to get at all possible debris?
  
  I'm still pondering the AC stuff, I took my drill out yesterday and opened 
  the only side panel I could find.
  I had cut off all breakers to inside and outside unit before hand.
  So I explored around in there.
  Not much to do from there that I could tell.
  I see a coiled like rope, or hose looking thing, it's fuzzy textured. I 
  blew it off a little with the air hose from the air compressor, and 
  vacuumed at it a bit with a shop vac. Just playing, lightly as not to hurt 
  anything and mainly exploring at this point. Unit's working fine for now, I 
  did not want to do the water hose thing yet, as I just wasn't in the mood 
  to get sopping wet and be in a big puddle.
  I blew out and sucked out all the vents around the unit. I did very little 
  good, and no harm as yet.
  I did use my shop-vac to suck a lot of grass and junk out of the bottom of 
  that little panel.
  I noticed many of the same sorts of screws around a lip around the top of 
  my unit, These are on the outside, facing my stomach you understand, not on 
  top facing the sky.
  From what I have read on line, are you supposed to remove those and lift 
  the fan totally out to get to the inside of the unit to clean in there?
  I have not tried this yet.
  Someone told me not to remove screws from the top of the unit if I found 
  them

Re: [BlindHandyMan] linking wii to internet

2010-05-02 Thread Scott Howell

The Wii is capable of wireless access if the Verizon modem supports that.
However, if not, she could purchase a switch, but it would be just as simple to
head to a Best Buy or the web and purchase a Linksys router. Most all routers
are now wireless and wired and can be purchased for generally under $50. I have
a spare router here in the event my main router fails and it is a Linksys
WRT54G. This router is also accessible as it uses a web interface for
configuration etc. Although she may not be able to get this specific router, I
am sure most Linksys will also offer a web interface and are good and my
understanding is Netgear is another good router as well. She would connect the
Verizon modem to the WAN port on the router and all computers etc. to the
router either via the ethernet ports or wirelessly.

hth,
On May 1, 2010, at 10:57 PM, Lenny McHugh wrote:

My grandson has a wii and wants to link it to the internet. My daughter has
a verizon modem. She purchased an either net adaptor and a 25 foot cable for
the wii. Since her computer and modem only have one either net connection,
is there a splitter or hub that could be used to hook up the wii?
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] linking wii to internet

2010-05-02 Thread Scott Howell

Actually I would disagree on the internal verses external antennas in all
cases. I can only speak from experience with my Apple routers, but they all
have internal antennas and they work extremely well. In fact I have one down in
the basement and I can get a signal on the second floor of the house, despite
the metal ductwork and other stuff in the way. Sure the signal is not 100%, but
it was not even with the Linksys that has external antennas. Of course I am
only referring to my experience since I have not used any routers other than
Apple's routers with internal antennas.

On May 2, 2010, at 8:11 AM, Trouble wrote:

For that type of connection a router would be preferred. now a days
just about all routers come with wireless and you can get some good
ones for around $50. Just make sure you get one with external
antennas because the internal type don't pick up very good.

At 10:57 PM 5/1/2010, you wrote:
My grandson has a wii and wants to link it to the internet. My daughter has
a verizon modem. She purchased an either net adaptor and a 25 foot cable for
the wii. Since her computer and modem only have one either net connection,
is there a splitter or hub that could be used to hook up the wii?
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.

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trouble
Verizon FIOS support tech
Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance.
--Sam Brown

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] linking wii to internet

2010-05-02 Thread Scott Howell

Betsy,

No, a Mac can connect to the router and in fact before I switched to
using an Apple router, I was using a Linksys and connecting my Mac to it.
Currently I have about 3 Macs that belong to me and my family, my employer's PC
and their Mac as well that connect to the Apple router. I don't know what
security settings you are using, but for wireless connections I strongly
encourage you use WPA2 Personal, which will work beautifully with the Mac. If
you are using WEP, it is possible there is a problem with the key. If you want
to explain your issue off list, send me a note at scottn3...@gmail.com or reply
to this e-mail address and I'll see what I can do to help you. I would however
say if your within a few feet of the router normally, you might want to use the
wired connection unless it is a laptop. I do this mainly to get better
throughput with other wired machines on the network, but that may not be a
concern for you.

On May 2, 2010, at 8:36 AM, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote:

I'm so glad this subject came up. Scot, you mention using an Apple
router. I have 3 PCs in the house and one Mac. I can connect my PCs
to my router and get a wireless connection for my laptop. Router has
external antennas and is a linksys. However, when I try to connect
the Mac to the router it refuses to work. I have to keep it connected
to the hub directly.
Do Macs only work with Apple routers?
Betsy
At 02:28 AM 5/2/2010, you wrote:
Actually I would disagree on the internal verses external antennas
in all cases. I can only speak from experience with my Apple
routers, but they all have internal antennas and they work extremely
well. In fact I have one down in the basement and I can get a signal
on the second floor of the house, despite the metal ductwork and
other stuff in the way. Sure the signal is not 100%, but it was not
even with the Linksys that has external antennas. Of course I am
only referring to my experience since I have not used any routers
other than Apple's routers with internal antennas.

On May 2, 2010, at 8:11 AM, Trouble wrote:

At 10:57 PM 5/1/2010, you wrote:
My grandson has a wii and wants to link it to the internet. My
daughter has
a verizon modem. She purchased an either net adaptor and a 25
foot cable for
the wii. Since her computer and modem only have one either net
connection,
is there a splitter or hub that could be used to hook up the wii?
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.

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The Pod

Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!

2010-04-09 Thread Scott Howell

Hey that sounds similar to the Staber that we have. The Staber acts like a
front-load, but is a top-load.
On Apr 9, 2010, at 1:28 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

We have a Fisher Paykel and it's great. It is still a top loading model, and
I labeled the buttons I need to use.

It gives feedback through tones which is kind of nice. But I guess the
feature I like most is the sensing technology. It only runs enough watter to
clean the weight of the load inside. No filling to the top no matter what.

And when it spins, it sounds like a jet winding up. My wife likes to hang
clothes out most of the time. When it's done spinning, everything including
big towels are only damp.

We got ours from Lowes a few years back but it does a great job still.

BTW, for anyone wondering, Lowes contracts through Sears to service the
appliances they sell.
- Original Message -
From: Jim Gatteys
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!

Hi Tom!

Well this is an old maytag neptune the one that had the class action problem.
I replaced the control board to the tune of 285 dollars and now the bearings
are screaming and I don't know anything about replacing them. They wanted 600
dollars for the maytag people to do it--maybe more. Can't remember. Anyway by
the time I did that I could have a new machine. The problem is with the flat
panels, you have a cycle button that you have to press once for normal, twice
for heavy and that sort of thing. Same for the temperature. I'd like to have
a front loader if possible but I did see an old dial roper at Lowes for 339
dollars and might have to r esort to that.
Still if anybody has ideas I'd appreciate them. I'm looking at a samsung that
seems really nifty---has an element to heat water if its not hot enough.
Thanks for any help.
Jim

On Apr 9, 2010, at 11:18 AM, Tom Hodges wrote:

Jim, My Sears washing machine, which was about 12 years old, started
sounding like someone was beating it with a hammer. I called the service
department and was told that it was probably the transmission and it would
be cheaper to buy a new one.

We went to Sears and got a good deal on a floor model. Both machines were
top loaders,.

We got the new one home and it sounded exactly like the one we just
replaced. I called the store and they sent a serviceman the next week. The
problem was, you guessed it, the transmission. Oh well, sometimes you just
can't win.

Anyway, I was talking to the service man and he told me that sometime, in
the near future, all washing machines will be front loaders. He said they
clean the clothes much more efficiently and the problem with the door
leaking is a thing of the past.

As far as the controls are concerned, my microwave is a flat panel, but I
use those self adhesive nubs to find my way around the panel.They are like
little buttons that you put on keyboards and such. They come in all
different sizes. Anywaythat may be a consideration for you if the control
panel is an issue. Maybe someone else on here has a flat panel washing
maching and will comment on it.

Tom

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jim Gatteys
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 10:09 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!

Hi all!
My washer has finally bitten the dust and its time to be replaced. And
they've definitely changed since the last time I made a purchase. I
currently have a front loading model but it seems like most of those
nowadays have touch panels and don't seem to be very accessible to blind
folks.
Anybody have any suggestions on what you might have purchased that is
accessible?
Thanks for any help,
Jim

-
Find me on facebook or:
Skype: jimintexas
Yahoo or Aim/Ichat: jgatteys
Msn: jgatt...@gmail.com mailto:jgatteys%40gmail.com

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-
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!

2010-04-09 Thread Scott Howell

Wow, your washer does have some neat features. Mine foams at the mouth at times
and when that happens I get a little concerned.
On Apr 9, 2010, at 4:19 PM, Victor Gouveia wrote:

Tom, we have the same model.

Does yours come with a built in head swatter?

I was kind of lucky in that regard, in that the head swatter on mine works
all the time, and especially when the white laundry is mixed in with the
coloured.

I've argued with my washer over and over again, that's just racist, but the
darn thing won't have any of it.

Mine was made in the Philippines, where most of the stuff is. I hear it's
cheap labour over there, and no television, hence the sheer number of them
coming into the country. LOL.

Victor

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

2010-04-07 Thread Scott Howell

Thanks everyone for all the tips. I don't know if or when I'll have the chance
to use a saw, but this old electric bugger I got for a dollar is probably not
worth using. It has no chain break and well hey, I got it thinking I might want
to use it for a job, but I'm not sure it really works all that well. Might be
worth trying on a small task, but then again, I'm still trying to determine the
amount of work to ensure it operates correctly.
However, the tips are certainly valuable either way.

On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:43 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

It depends on what you are cutting as to which direction to hold it. But
keeping the tip away from things is very important. I've had many cases of
kick back while sawing and it's nothing like we talk about with a table saw.

When a chain saw kicks back it isn't throwing wood at you, it's throwing
itself.

The best way to avoid kick back is to keep a good grip on the handle. It
will help control any movement by the saw. The chain brake is a good thing
to have in place but it won't necessarily engage every time the saw kicks
back. Letting go of the trigger and keeping control of the front handle is
the only way to stop the saw from getting to you.

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way
to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this
chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could
cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I
hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the
saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However,
being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations,
it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the
motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it
best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical?
Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held
perpendicular to the work?
I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a
problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back
and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than
a handsaw. grin

On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote:

I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can
use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for
your job unless you have future use.
If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is
your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you
want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good.

If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off
your hands.

By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But
if I had a good enough reason, I would use it.

John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

- Original Message -
From: RJ
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job
nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well,
if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to
handle.
RJ
- Original Message -
From: Scott Berry
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

Hello there,

I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in
diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do
you recommend.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Crashing Burning!

2010-04-06 Thread Scott Howell

Claudia,

I do understand how you feel and I often feel very overwhelmed with a full-time
job, classes, and way more projects than I have time to cope with. So, here is
a suggestion. Make a list of work projects to be done or at least tasks you
must perform. Make a list of personal projects and this could be getting a
haircut etc. Finally make a list of issues your trying to cope with and rank
them in order of most important/must be dealt with now. Then consider the job
provides income, so you probably need to give some time here unless you really
can afford to take a little time off. Then look at the list of personal tasks
and rank these and see what you can do during your non-work time and allocate
time to each project. Finally look at the other issues and based on the rating
of importance, set aside time to deal with each.
The idea here is to allocate specific blocks of time for each thing in your day
and leave yourself some downtime If you do not structure your day as much as
possible, you stand there flinging crap around and waiting to see what sticks.
Generally this is not an effective way to manage your time and will probably
result in limited productivity and one very frustrated Claudia. Now is my
method the best way? Nope, but you have to start somewhere. So, I offer that as
a suggestion. I could sit here and type all those things about how sorry I am
your having a tough time, but that only confirms what you already know and
doesn't really offer any ideas to ease your burdens so to speak.
I hope that was of some help.

On Apr 6, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Claudia wrote:

Hi All,

I am really going through something, at the moment! I am thankful to have a
job, but I'm just so tired, burned out, stressed out, etc. I barely get any
sleep, maybe, about 3 to 4 hours per night, and when I get home, I can't
sleep because there are things to do, of course.
My concentration leaves a lot to be desired, and I'm just struggling to
really get to work, every morning. I just feel like I'm on a downward slide,
and I don't know how to bring myself back out of it!
My job is very demanding and mentally taxing, and I just want some time off;
I'm part-time though, but I put in at least 30 hours per week, and i'm just
finding it harder harder to maintain the status quo here!
I realize that you all can't do anything, but if you don't hear from me for a
while, this is why!
There are a lot of other things going on, on the personal front that are
keeping me busy, so that just adds to my stress levels. I just feel so very
unmotivated and don't know how to get back to being upbeat, optimistic
productive!
Thankss for letting me vent!

Claudia

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

2010-04-06 Thread Scott Howell

You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use
one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that
is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at
you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the
tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and
take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as
many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever
your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and
are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side
instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the
chain run always be held perpendicular to the work?
I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem
with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the
handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin

On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote:

I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use
it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job
unless you have future use.
If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your
only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good
one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good.

If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your
hands.

By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I
had a good enough reason, I would use it.

John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

- Original Message -
From: RJ
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job
nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if
close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle.
RJ
- Original Message -
From: Scott Berry
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

Hello there,

I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in
diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do
you recommend.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Does iPod Nano Have Voice Over?

2010-03-31 Thread Scott Howell

That is correct, iTUnes puts small MP3 files on the unit. It works quite well.
I've got a previous generation iPod sitting here not being used any longer
since i started using the iPhone. I however found the Nano to be a very nice
device and very easy to operate.
On Mar 31, 2010, at 9:20 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

Bill,

From what I remember, the Nano does not have VoiceOver, but ITunes places
small mp3 files on the nano that allow it to announce the names of the
files. So it is nnot a complete screen reader, just simulated.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

2010-03-30 Thread Scott Howell

I believe the Vitimix can be had for about $300 from Costco. Check around, I 
did not pay that much for mine, I think it was a little over $300 or $350. Of 
course I got mine over 10 years ago and it is still just as good as new. 
Whatever you get, just make sure it meets your needs, that is more important 
than which brand/model.
On Mar 30, 2010, at 8:13 AM, Andrew J. LaPointe wrote:

 If you want a vita mix, check out the Health Master, it is like the Vita Mix
 but much much cheaper. They can be purchased at Bed Bath and Beyond for
 $200.00 I paid $450.00 for my Vita Mix.. Andy
 
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Eugene Baroni
 Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 8:09 AM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix
 
 I have a vitamix. The blades are not sharp at all. It is made that way on
 purpose. It is a powerful machine and works well.
 - Original Message -
 From: Spiro
 To: Blindhandyman
 Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 11:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix
 
 I have a quisineard (spelling) and it's like a blender with changible
 blades. Watch out, they are sharp.
 
 On Mon, 29 Mar 2010, Alan  Terrie Robbins wrote:
 
  I have been considering getting a Vita Mix machine (kind of
  like a blender, or food processor) for the kitchen.
  Wondering if anyone on this list has or has had one and how
  blind friendly the units are?
 
  thanks
  Al
 
 
 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

2010-03-29 Thread Scott Howell

My wife and I have had one for a number of years. They are very friendly as 
last I checked the controls are still switches and a rotating knob. I will tell 
you that this is one serious machine that has the ability to take a solid 
potato and turn it into liquid. In my opinion, they are well worth the money 
and will last a very long time.

On Mar 29, 2010, at 8:36 AM, Alan  Terrie Robbins wrote:

 I have been considering getting a Vita Mix machine (kind of
 like a blender, or food processor) for the kitchen.
 Wondering if anyone on this list has or has had one and how
 blind friendly the units are?
 
 thanks
 Al
 
 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking multimeter

2010-03-28 Thread Scott Howell

Makes sense to me, but wish it did not blend colors and instead gave the true
color. I'm sure there is a reason, but...

On Mar 27, 2010, at 12:22 PM, Spiro wrote:

As clear as I can be, as I've said before;
I have a cobalt (spelling) color I.D.
My hand comes out as something like dark pink.
If it's a red wire I get something like dark red and if it's a black wire
in my hand I get dark purple.
So white comes out as light pink.
This is because the color identifiers blend the colors.
A striped white shirt, will be very light gray if the stripes are gray and
light gray if the stripes are black.
Does that make sense to anyone; I want to be clear with the reality of the
process and resultant opportunities for our independance.
Best to you all.

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010, Rick Hume wrote:

Hey, Terry, I've asked dozens of people about this before, without anyone
being able to supply a precise answer. You say that you use a color
identifier. I assume that you use it to determine wire coating colors? Does
your color identifier accurately identify the color of wire coatings? What
make and model of identifier do you have? Thank you for your information.

Rick
- Original Message -
From: Terry Klarich
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 9:02 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] talking multimeter

Just got my multimeter yesterday. Already used it on the sailboat trailer.
Works great. I appreciate the info very much.
Anything I can do completely by myself makes my life much easier. With the
multimeter and my color identifier, I'm pretty much set
as far as wiring goes. I'm pretty pumped.

Thank you all very much.

Terry

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: color identification.

2010-03-28 Thread Scott Howell

Tom, I understand now. I was under the impression that even with the black 
background, I may still have issues with the wire. Well hey, don't know until 
you try. grin
On Mar 28, 2010, at 5:50 PM, Tom Fowle wrote:

 As Terry said, if the object whose color you want to identify is smaller
 than will cover the sensor of the identifier, you need a black background on
 which to put the unknown object E.G. wire etc.
 
 Otherwise a colored, nonm-black background must optically combine colors
 with the color of the unknown object. The identifier is doing exactly what
 you asked it to do, you just have to ask the right question.
 
 Tom Fowle
 



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[BlindHandyMan] Rescreening a long screen

2010-03-22 Thread Scott Howell

Hey all,

I am attempting to put new screen material on a 36 by 80-inch frame. I have the 
idea down, and even got the hang of how to do it. However, where I'm having 
problems and where I'm so damned frustrated I can't think straight, is how in 
the hell to keep the frame from pulling slightly in toward itself. This is 
occurring in the middle section of the frame and that causes the screen not to 
fit correctly into the door. I almost had it, but discovered a tear in the damn 
screen and I just had to stop because I was out of screen and just to 
irritated. I think the problem is as I apply the roller and push the spline in, 
the frame starts to pull. What was suggested to me and may be the issue is I 
was told it is easier to start at the top and work down both sides at the same 
time; well do a little of each side as I go. Perhaps I should start at one 
corner and work my way around the entire frame? Any advice would be really 
appreciated. I've already wasted two screens at this point since the first one 
went great until I discovered I could not fit it for the pulled frame problem.
If I had some scrap around here, I imagine I could have made a couple of cross 
members just to keep the frame spread in a uniform manner. Well again, any 
thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rescreening a long screen

2010-03-22 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Tom, that is indeed a fine ida. I was hoping to avoid spending money on 
scrap. I know I know I should have scrap around here, but honestly most scrap 
was junk, which was not worth keeping and I was out of storage space. It's bad 
enough now my wife is constantly irritated by the insulation panels on top of 
the freezer. grin So, if I can dig up anything at all, I'll try that. Thanks 
for the idea, it really is what I should have done initially.

On Mar 22, 2010, at 3:55 PM, Tom Fowle wrote:

 cott,
 Speaking from absolutely no experience, how about making a spreader that'll
 fit across the door in the middle of the long sides, maybe of 1 by 2 inc cott,
 Speaking from absolutely no experience, how about making a spreader that'll
 fit across the door in the middle of the long sides, maybe of 1 by 2 inch
 wood. Might have to cut notches into the ends to hold the door frame
 or maybe temporarilly tack the spreader in place with hot glue that
 should come off pretty easilly.
 
 Just off the top of head.
 
 Tom Fowle
 
 wood 
 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rescreening a long screen

2010-03-22 Thread Scott Howell

Tom,

Now that is an interesting idea. What did occur to me is I could work down one
side, and then the other. My good friend Bruce provided this idea, but I think
I could take it a step further. If I were to take one side off the frame, that
would keep most the tention out and that would help as well. This is of course
assuming I cannot find some scrap to make a piece in the middle to keep the
frame spread apart. I would take it to the local hardware store, but there is a
pretty big backlog and it is in my opinion expensive. Now yes I am sure once
I'm done I will have spent that much in materials, but man I am now determined
to get this right. Yes, I'm irritated enough to do something about it. grin

Thanks,

On Mar 22, 2010, at 5:18 PM, Tom Hodges wrote:

Here is how I re screen a door or window. I take it to my local old
fashioned hardware store and have them do it. As a matter of fact, I am
taking the upper half, screen frame of my front, screen door to the hardware
store this weekend. I will present your problem to him and ask him for some
pointers for correcting the problem. If he doesn't think the info is for
me, and he might not lose a customer, he might tell me. Incidently, the
last time I was there, they had samples of the different screen materials.
One was the regular aluminum mesh, the second was the cloth, or maybe
fiberglas mesh stuff. The third was very interesting, it was a nylon
material, that you could actually push in the middle and it would flex
inward, up to about ten inches and go right back to it's original position.
It was like holding up some panty hose material and stretching it or pulling
it, and it goes right back to it's original shape. Not that I've ever done
that with a pair of panty hose, no matter what my wife might tell you.
Anyway, I'll let you know if he has any pointers at the hardware store.

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 3:21 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rescreening a long screen

Hey all,

I am attempting to put new screen material on a 36 by 80-inch frame. I have
the idea down, and even got the hang of how to do it. However, where I'm
having problems and where I'm so damned frustrated I can't think straight,
is how in the hell to keep the frame from pulling slightly in toward itself.
This is occurring in the middle section of the frame and that causes the
screen not to fit correctly into the door. I almost had it, but discovered a
tear in the damn screen and I just had to stop because I was out of screen
and just to irritated. I think the problem is as I apply the roller and push
the spline in, the frame starts to pull. What was suggested to me and may be
the issue is I was told it is easier to start at the top and work down both
sides at the same time; well do a little of each side as I go. Perhaps I
should start at one corner and work my way around the entire frame? Any
advice would be really appreciated. I've already wasted two screens at this
point since the first one went great until I discovered I could not fit it
for the pulled frame problem.
If I had some scrap around here, I imagine I could have made a couple of
cross members just to keep the frame spread in a uniform manner. Well again,
any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] TALKING DIGITAL MULTI METER WITH LIGHTED LEADS-MPJA, Inc.

2010-03-17 Thread Scott Howell

Ah geez, you guys are going to make me buy one. grin I have an old RS meter,
but I am not always sure it behaves as it should. Btw, the one thing I do not
recall seeing is a continuity tester on this unit, but I may have missed that.
So, does it have such a beast? Just nice to have.

tnx,
On Mar 16, 2010, at 10:39 AM, Lenny McHugh wrote:

The other day someone was looking for information on a multi-meter. Today on
the blind bargains page they refferenced this model. With about $8
additional shipping they could not find a cheaper model. Here is the
specifications and contact information.
Product:
TALKING DIGITAL MULTI METER WITH LIGHTED LEADS

Talking, back lit, auto ranging , 3-3/4 digit, digital multimeter.
With Lighted test leads. Rubber case for protection. Soft sided, zippered
belt case. Requires 3 AA batteries (not included).
Pressing button on Red Test Probe causes meter to tell the Range
Value
SPECIFICATIONS/FEATURES:
Volume control on back
10M ohm input impedance
1KV Max DC/750V Max AC
1KV Max DC+AC
RANGES:
DC VOLTS: .4 to 1KV in 5 ranges
DC CURRENT: 40mA/400mA in 2 Ranges
AC VOLTS: TRUE RMS: 4 to 750V in 4 ranges
AC CURRENT: 40mA/400mA in 2 Ranges
RESISTANCE: 400 to 40M in 6 ranges
CAPACITANCE: 52nF to 100uF in 5 ranges
FRENQUENCY: 5.000Hz to 20.00MHz in 4 ranges
CONTINUNITY: BEEP 35 ohms
T: 6-1/4 W: 3-3/8 D: 1-1/2 WT: 1.3

Stock No.:
16562 TE Price:
$ 39.95

Availability: In Stock Units: 218

Marlin P. Jones Assoc, Inc.
1133 Old Dixie Highway
P.O. Box 530400
Lake Park, Florida 33403

Order Line: 1-800-652-6733
Local: 561-848-8236
Tech Info: 561-848-8236

http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16562+TE
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Smith Wesson® 44 Mag To ol®

2010-03-15 Thread Scott Howell

Where is this on sale? Does sound interesting.

On Mar 15, 2010, at 8:40 AM, Lenny McHugh wrote:

Does anyone have this multi-tool? If so do you like it. Grizzly has it on
clearance for $10. I am thinking about ordering several. One for me and 6
for some Christmas stocking stuffers.
Smith Wesson® 44 Mag Tool®
escription
Without a doubt, the best multi-tool around. Aside from its superior
quality, the 44 Mag Tool® is the only one to feature a double-sided diamond
file.
Features:

a.. Needlenose pliers
b.. Wire cutters
c.. Crimpers
d.. Scissors
e.. Bottle opener
f.. Can opener
g.. 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 straight Phillips® type screwdrivers
h.. Double-sided diamond file
i.. Awl
j.. Lanyard
k.. Regular blade
l.. Serrated blade
m.. Criss-cross saw
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
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Help stop identity theft.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement floor update.

2010-03-15 Thread Scott Howell

Hell nail the door shut or something. :)
On Mar 15, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Tom Fowle wrote:

Dan,
I'd hang a piece of cardboard or something else to run into at the top of
the empty shaft to help remind you. Of course it will just annoy you and
you'll push by it anyhow but maybe worth a try.
Maybe a nice hippy bead curtan.

Tom

On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 01:38:34PM -0400, Dan Rossi wrote:
Not much to update. I have the majority of the floor structure in place,
and all joists are blocked in nicely. That was quite tedious.

I now need to put some PVC piping in place to limit the damage of any
basement flooding due to a washer or water tank disaster, or incursion of
water from the exterior door. Basically, just some pipes to channel the
water directly to the main floor drain.

Once that is done I can start laying down the decking.

I am probably going to have to go a couple of weeks without basement
stairs though. I can't put the last two joists in place until I rip out
the old stairs. Then I will have to lay down, and block those last two
joists, then put the decking down in that area, then build the new steps.
Since I only get to work on this stuff on weekends, and have lots of other
things to also get done on weekends chances are, that little bit of work
will take two, or even three weekends to get done. Will have to be on my
toes to remember not to just go running down to the basement during the
time the stairs are missing.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] buying a used car

2010-03-13 Thread Scott Howell

Jennifer,

See what the insurance company offers. Do not immediately accept that amount.
Check to see what similar cars sold for. In other words, look at the year,
condition, etc. and get pricing from wholesale to retail. My wife was in an
accident over 15 years ago and the insurance company tried offering us
considerably less than what the vehicle was worth. I got my numbers and twisted
their arm into giving me a fair price for the totaled car.
Knowledge is power.

On Mar 12, 2010, at 9:16 PM, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

I convinced my husband to be patient and not buy a $1500 car. His car was
totaled a little while back and we are still waiting to find out about the
insurance. but we are going to be upside down and do not want to turn over a
loan like that. We have one cheap get a round car, but it does not hold our
entire family, very inconvenient , but livable for a few months.

Jennifer

- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] buying a used car

One thing most dealers will provide if asked is a car fax or car facts. Don't
know which way it is spelled. Basically it lists the mileage and number of
times the car has changed hands, been titled. If a major wreck or flooding
then it should show as a salvage title somewhere. Also shows any odometer
tampering.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer Jackson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] buying a used car

Thanks Everyone,

I was really just thinking in terms of things to know as a blind person
specifically, not the general car buying stuff. I have gotten some good
answers, and I do appreciate it.

Jennifer

- Original Message -
From: Tom Hodges
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 7:20 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] buying a used car

I think the list of things to look for are too numerous to list here. I
would advise you to get ahold of a few buyer's guides for used cars. Again,
the list on here could go on, and on, and on, and on, and on. And it
probably will.

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 12:06 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] buying a used car

Ok, what should I ask and look for when buying a used car? Any special tips?
I know very little about cars, and have forgotten some of that in the last
23 years since I drove. *smile* Just to remind you, I am totally blind.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] buying a used car

2010-03-12 Thread Scott Howell

You will get all sorts of advice on what to ask, but consider anything said to
be suspect. I hate to be so negative, but in some cases the dealer does not
even know the total history of a vehicle. A certified pre-owned vehicle is a
good option if you can get a good deal. At least in this case the manufacturer
is standing behind the vehicle with a warranty. Also make sure you have checked
out buying guides for vehicles you are interested in. This will give you some
idea of their value when you are on the lot. Oh and one final note, never be
afraid to walk away from a deal no matter how much pressure they try to apply
and hell if they try to pressure you, tell them to go pound sand. My wife and I
just purchased a new vehicle and it was actually a pretty pleasant experience.
Apparently this dealer got it.
On Mar 12, 2010, at 12:05 AM, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

Ok, what should I ask and look for when buying a used car? Any special tips?
I know very little about cars, and have forgotten some of that in the last 23
years since I drove. *smile* Just to remind you, I am totally blind.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

THanks, that is what I wanted, a T connection. Just could not seem to recall 
what I wanted. Well yeah, I think I even have one of those caliper things 
around here. In any case, I am not fond of the saddle valve and considering how 
this one is designed, it's got to go.

Thanks,
On Mar 7, 2010, at 2:06 PM, Dale Leavens wrote:

 Replacing the saddle valve should be fine. You may prefer to buy a higher 
 quality one but like you I am not all that thrilled with them.
 
 The correct way to do what you wish to do is to insert a 'T' connection then 
 a valve on the branch then on to the fridge.
 
 I don't have any experience with the bite fittings but certainly there are 
 compression 'T' fittings but they are not cheap.You will need to reduce out 
 of the valve to the much thinner flex line to the fridge.
 
 You can measure outside diameter with a caliper. You can make a caliper by 
 sliding a stick down one leg of a square keeping it parallel to the other leg 
 and when both contact the pipe at opposite sides you will have the diameter.
 
 Think that covers it.
 
 If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 1:49 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves
 
 Folks,
 
 I am wondering if there is a valve made by Shark Bite or would have 
 compression fittings. I do not know what it would be called, but let me 
 describe the valve and the problem. Well first the problem. I heard a hissing 
 noise from the fridge and we were about to leave the house, but I just 
 couldn't leave it alone, I had to at least determine what the hissing sound 
 was. So, finally I pulled the fridge out and am I glad I did. Yes, you 
 probably guessed by now that the water line from the fridge to the basement 
 had sprung a leak. A pin-hole leak, but a leak nevertheless. It was spitting 
 water all over the place and I'm not sure how long it had been doing that, 
 but I think I caught it early enough that it was not to large of a mess to 
 clean up. Unfortunately this meant I had to cut the water to the entire house 
 because the saddle valve had also failed to function when I turned it off. 
 So, off to the box store and back home with a very very heavy, duty water 
 line and included a new saddle valve. THe saddle valve was in my opinion a 
 piece of fecal matter and I have little confidence in it holding up. I'm sure 
 I'll get all sorts of opinions about saddle valves, but in my mind they do 
 not thrill me very much. So, what I would much rather have is a valve that is 
 of course a ball valve that would go inline. I would like to be able to cut 
 out that piece of pipe where the saddle valve is, install a valve that would 
 have a connection, which I could attach the water line too. Now, it may 
 require more than what I am looking to do because I suspect to even install a 
 mini branch to just accommodate the water line would be more complicated. I 
 do have the option of adding another flexible water line and running that 
 from under the kitchen sink with a T-splitter, run the water line along the 
 basement ceiling, and back up to the fridge and I may end up doing this. Of 
 course this means connecting to hoses and that is not a difficult problem 
 either, just more work and more effort to be sure I tie things up to prevent 
 anyone from possibly hitting it with something and damaging the line. Either 
 way I may end up doing this and use a SHark connector to just replace that 
 section of the line where there is that small hole. However, I thought I 
 would ask if there is some sort of splitter I could put into the line that 
 would have some sort of ball valve I could use to shut off the water to the 
 fridge, but not the rest of the downstream line.
 Also, one other question. I despariately need to replace the old gate valves 
 at the meeter, and there is one on either side of the meter. These things are 
 leaking only when messed with, bu they are really rusty feeling and will fail 
 at some point. I understand the Shark valves may be used as well. Of of 
 course I need to get someone to come and turn off the water at the street 
 unless I could find a tool to do it myself. However, more important, how can 
 I be sure I know the size of the pipe coming off the meeter? I am assuming it 
 is 3/4 off the meeter and probably reduces to 3/4 at some point. The gent at 
 the HD said to measure the pipe's outside diameter and that makes sense if I 
 can use a tailor's tape, which I have. Otherwise, how could I determine this? 
 I sure can't cut and then measure because that will never fly with the 
 spouse. grin
 
 tnx,
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

Thanks for the info and from what I have been told at least in this area is 
everything from the curb-cock to the house is my problem. Yes, the meter itself 
is their problem, but anything from the curb to the meter, and beyond the meter 
is my problem. SO, that means both gate valves are my problem, but they will 
turn off the water at the street for me to replace the bad valves. Of course 
getting them to wait while I do it instead of having them come back might be a 
challenge. Might have to work on that. grin
On Mar 7, 2010, at 3:07 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

 The valves at the meter are typically the responsibility of the city or town 
 you pay for water. It's their meter thus their responsibility.
 
 The trouble with the fridge line is that line is a quarter inch. Most lines 
 in the house are going to be 3 quarters or a half inch. You can find 
 compression ball valves for either size, but you will still need to step down 
 to the quarter inch. I think you may end up at a plumbing shop for a 
 compression reducer from half to quarter. 
 
 This isn't to say they don't make step down ball valves, just most box stores 
 I've dealt with don't tend to carry them. A toilet or shut off for a sink is 
 typically half to 3 eighths, with the fridge being about the only thing in 
 the house running quarter inch line. 
 
 A thought that just came to me is to use a half to 3/8 ball valve. I bet you 
 could find a 3/8 to quarter compression step down in an automotive parts 
 store if nothing else. 
 
 You can try the boxes first, then I'd call a plumbing supply place next with 
 the automotive last. 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 1:49 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves
 
 Folks,
 
 I am wondering if there is a valve made by Shark Bite or would have 
 compression fittings. I do not know what it would be called, but let me 
 describe the valve and the problem. Well first the problem. I heard a hissing 
 noise from the fridge and we were about to leave the house, but I just 
 couldn't leave it alone, I had to at least determine what the hissing sound 
 was. So, finally I pulled the fridge out and am I glad I did. Yes, you 
 probably guessed by now that the water line from the fridge to the basement 
 had sprung a leak. A pin-hole leak, but a leak nevertheless. It was spitting 
 water all over the place and I'm not sure how long it had been doing that, 
 but I think I caught it early enough that it was not to large of a mess to 
 clean up. Unfortunately this meant I had to cut the water to the entire house 
 because the saddle valve had also failed to function when I turned it off. 
 So, off to the box store and back home with a very very heavy, duty water 
 line and included a new saddle valve. THe saddle valve was in my opinion a 
 piece of fecal matter and I have little confidence in it holding up. I'm sure 
 I'll get all sorts of opinions about saddle valves, but in my mind they do 
 not thrill me very much. So, what I would much rather have is a valve that is 
 of course a ball valve that would go inline. I would like to be able to cut 
 out that piece of pipe where the saddle valve is, install a valve that would 
 have a connection, which I could attach the water line too. Now, it may 
 require more than what I am looking to do because I suspect to even install a 
 mini branch to just accommodate the water line would be more complicated. I 
 do have the option of adding another flexible water line and running that 
 from under the kitchen sink with a T-splitter, run the water line along the 
 basement ceiling, and back up to the fridge and I may end up doing this. Of 
 course this means connecting to hoses and that is not a difficult problem 
 either, just more work and more effort to be sure I tie things up to prevent 
 anyone from possibly hitting it with something and damaging the line. Either 
 way I may end up doing this and use a SHark connector to just replace that 
 section of the line where there is that small hole. However, I thought I 
 would ask if there is some sort of splitter I could put into the line that 
 would have some sort of ball valve I could use to shut off the water to the 
 fridge, but not the rest of the downstream line.
 Also, one other question. I despariately need to replace the old gate valves 
 at the meeter, and there is one on either side of the meter. These things are 
 leaking only when messed with, bu they are really rusty feeling and will fail 
 at some point. I understand the Shark valves may be used as well. Of of 
 course I need to get someone to come and turn off the water at the street 
 unless I could find a tool to do it myself. However, more important, how can 
 I be sure I know the size of the pipe coming off the meeter? I am assuming it 
 is 3/4 off the meeter and probably reduces to 3/4 at some point. The gent at 
 the HD said to measure the pipe's outside

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

THanks Jim, that is very helpful.
On Mar 7, 2010, at 3:06 PM, jim wrote:

 i am doing some re plumbing also.
 for a caliper i used a bar clamp and just measured between the jaw pads.
 Jim
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

This does make sense and in my  case they only had the heavy-duty PVC line. 
THis stuff is really tough and is probably 3 or 4 times thicker and larger than 
the previous line. In fact the water now blasts through the line as compared to 
the crappy thin thing that was on there. 

thanks,
On Mar 7, 2010, at 10:00 PM, Dave Andrus wrote:

 Hi Scott, 
 
 I do not like those saddle valves as in my oppinion they do not let enough
 volume of water go through to properly run an ice maker. As Dale mentioned,
 putting in a t and from the t run the valve is the best. When I have had to
 do this, of course I don't do the sweating of the pipes but I do the rest. I
 usually then used 3/8 flexable copper. I prefer copper to plastic for
 several reasons, mainly because I think copper gives off less taste to the
 water than plastic. 
 
 Dave A.
 
 Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of
 Jesus
 
 Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
 Lutheran Blind Mission
 888 215 2455
 HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Scott Howell
 Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 12:50 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves
 
 Folks,
 
 I am wondering if there is a valve made by Shark Bite or would have
 compression fittings. I do not know what it would be called, but let me
 describe the valve and the problem. Well first the problem. I heard a
 hissing noise from the fridge and we were about to leave the house, but I
 just couldn't leave it alone, I had to at least determine what the hissing
 sound was. So, finally I pulled the fridge out and am I glad I did. Yes, you
 probably guessed by now that the water line from the fridge to the basement
 had sprung a leak. A pin-hole leak, but a leak nevertheless. It was spitting
 water all over the place and I'm not sure how long it had been doing that,
 but I think I caught it early enough that it was not to large of a mess to
 clean up. Unfortunately this meant I had to cut the water to the entire
 house because the saddle valve had also failed to function when I turned it
 off. So, off to the box store and back home with a very very heavy, duty
 water line and included a new saddle valve. THe saddle valve was in my
 opinion a piece of fecal matter and I have little confidence in it holding
 up. I'm sure I'll get all sorts of opinions about saddle valves, but in my
 mind they do not thrill me very much. So, what I would much rather have is a
 valve that is of course a ball valve that would go inline. I would like to
 be able to cut out that piece of pipe where the saddle valve is, install a
 valve that would have a connection, which I could attach the water line too.
 Now, it may require more than what I am looking to do because I suspect to
 even install a mini branch to just accommodate the water line would be more
 complicated. I do have the option of adding another flexible water line and
 running that from under the kitchen sink with a T-splitter, run the water
 line along the basement ceiling, and back up to the fridge and I may end up
 doing this. Of course this means connecting to hoses and that is not a
 difficult problem either, just more work and more effort to be sure I tie
 things up to prevent anyone from possibly hitting it with something and
 damaging the line. Either way I may end up doing this and use a SHark
 connector to just replace that section of the line where there is that small
 hole. However, I thought I would ask if there is some sort of splitter I
 could put into the line that would have some sort of ball valve I could use
 to shut off the water to the fridge, but not the rest of the downstream
 line.
 Also, one other question. I despariately need to replace the old gate valves
 at the meeter, and there is one on either side of the meter. These things
 are leaking only when messed with, bu they are really rusty feeling and will
 fail at some point. I understand the Shark valves may be used as well. Of of
 course I need to get someone to come and turn off the water at the street
 unless I could find a tool to do it myself. However, more important, how can
 I be sure I know the size of the pipe coming off the meeter? I am assuming
 it is 3/4 off the meeter and probably reduces to 3/4 at some point. The gent
 at the HD said to measure the pipe's outside diameter and that makes sense
 if I can use a tailor's tape, which I have. Otherwise, how could I determine
 this? I sure can't cut and then measure because that will never fly with the
 spouse. grin
 
 tnx,
 
 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

Dan, how would you hook it up without the manifold, would you just use a T etc?

tnx,
On Mar 8, 2010, at 10:21 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

 I'm not Dale, but I am trying to avoid work this morning. PEX is 
 cross-linked polyethylene. It is essentially flexible plastic tubing that 
 is strong enough, and non-reactive enough, to carry potable water through 
 your house. It is great to work with because you don't have to sweat 
 fittings, you just crimp them on. You don't have to make lots of T 
 connections or put in elbows, you just run one continuous line and bend it 
 where it needs to be bent.
 
 If you want to get fancy, you can put a manifold in one place, then run 
 direct feeds from the manifold to each outlet, toilet, sink, shower, blah 
 blah blah.
 
 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail:   d...@andrew.cmu.edu
 Tel:  (412) 268-9081
 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

That does interest me because I am sure at some point the laws of averages,
time, etc. will catch up with me and require replacement of the copper lines in
this house. If I have to do this, I think I could really get into the idea of a
manifold arrangement and just run lines to each fixture. Sure it may be a
little more work since you have two lines to run, but it sure would make
finding shutoff valves and the like incredibly easy to setup. I also believe a
retrofit could be done in stages. First I'd install the manifold, connect that
to the system, and then set about running lines. The only problem I can see for
myself is the line coming into the house off the meter is on one side of the
basement and the water heater is on the other side. This would really mean I
would have to locate the manifold in the area where the water heater is and not
near the main shutoff. Currently killing the water flow to the entire house
could be done by one of the rather tired gate valves. I imagine I could
relocate the meter and such, but I suspect that would violate some code because
one would have to assume a valve on the main line coming into the house would
have to be within a certain number of feet of the entry point. Of course if one
got super silly, the line could be accessed outside the house, modified, and
run clear around the house to the back of the structure and brought in there.
This of course would be very silly considering the amount of digging that would
be required and that would just not work. grin

On Mar 8, 2010, at 1:09 PM, Dan Rossi wrote:

There are others here who have actually done the work with PEX, I have
just been reading about it, but yes, you can bridge from Copper to Pex so
can make parcial runs of PEX. For example, I had considered ripping down
the main section of Copper going from my meter to the far end of the
basement where everything begins branching. I considered replacing just
that main section with Pex so I could easily move the line to a more
convenient location, without having to re-plumb the entire place.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Dan, I know where the curb shutoff is, but I understand a special tool is
required to turn off the water. What I can't recall is how to repack the valve
without having the water off. My hope is to fix this once and for all so I can
reduce the massive hole in the wall where the meter and valves are. This sucker
is about 3 or so feet across and 2 feet high. My wife wants the hole reduced to
something more reasonable so replacing the valves may result in a plumber
coming in either way. Well I think they should never allow gate valves to be
installed. grin

thanks,
On Mar 8, 2010, at 7:54 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

Scott,

I had the same issue, where my main shut-off was leaking slightly. I
tried to get it changed, but ended up not being able to. I wasn't going
to touch it myself, an 80 year old valve and pipe, no way. So I got a
plumber. Unfortunately, the plumber was unable to get the curb box valve
shut off. We compromised and shut-off the main valve, put a better
shut-off valve inside of the old one, then opened the old valve and
tightened it up and packed it so that it wouldn't leak, and never has to
be touched again.

You can save yourself some aggravation if you find the curb box yourself.
It took me a couple of days of looking and probing. Somehow, the water
company was able to shut it off, but the plumber who showed up later
couldn't.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Copper vs. PVC Pipe - Was: Shark Bite Inline Valves

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

Dave,

I would have to concur with your comments. I often wonder where some of
these codes come from because some simply seem to ensure a professional does
the job and not your typical homeowner. Now I have to say that seeing how some
of the wiring was done in this house, there is no question the person who did
this work should never be allowed to touch anything electrical and should be
required by law to hire professionals. THis way they would avoid the next
sucker from loosing their home. grin I do not have a problem with anyone trying
to make a living, but I would prefer to reserve their services for projects
beyond my skill set.

On Mar 8, 2010, at 2:37 PM, Dave Andrus wrote:

Hi,

I wish I could agree with you completely. An earth quake will get either
pipe, and in fact the more ridgid it is as with copper, the more likely it
is to break.

I hate to say it but the main reason cities and their codes do not want
plastic is because of the unions. Most people can do plastic. Most can not
do copper, thus giving union pipe fitters a job.

This is real evident in chicago with their electrical codes. All electrical
wire must be in conduet. They say conduet prevents a person putting a nial
through the wire. As true as that is, it rarely happens.

Please do not assume I am a union basher. I am not. I am simply pointing out
the practical reason for some of the codes.

Dave A.

Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of
Jesus

Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
Lutheran Blind Mission
888 215 2455
HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bill Gallik
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 3:43 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Copper vs. PVC Pipe - Was: Shark Bite Inline Valves

I can't speak to where anybody else lives, but water supply lines cannot be
PVC and meet code in most metropolitan locations. At least, none of the
metropolitan areas where I've lived allow PVC supply lines. The reason for
this is that in case of a fire, earthquake, tornado or some other disaster
that could rupture those lines the municipality doesn't want water supplies
compromised. Of course, an earthquake might very well rupture a main line,
but that's much easier to correct than a number of private homes leaking
kilo gallons of water during an emergency.

Holland's Person, Bill
- Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint.
- US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX

2010-03-08 Thread Scott Howell

Ahha, that makes to much sense. grin Thanks, I guess my problem is I like
everything centralized, so no one has to run about looking for something.
Although, in the end it probably doesn't make a lot of difference. Of course
ensuring a secure installation will help the lines stay put as well because I
can imagine the force generated when water flows through the lines. grin

On Mar 8, 2010, at 6:30 PM, Dale Leavens wrote:

You can have a hot and a cold manifold in different locations.

If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX

That does interest me because I am sure at some point the laws of
averages, time, etc. will catch up with me and require replacement of the
copper lines in this house. If I have to do this, I think I could really
get into the idea of a manifold arrangement and just run lines to each
fixture. Sure it may be a little more work since you have two lines to
run, but it sure would make finding shutoff valves and the like incredibly
easy to setup. I also believe a retrofit could be done in stages. First
I'd install the manifold, connect that to the system, and then set about
running lines. The only problem I can see for myself is the line coming
into the house off the meter is on one side of the basement and the water
heater is on the other side. This would really mean I would have to locate
the manifold in the area where the water heater is and not near the main
shutoff. Currently killing the water flow to the entire house could be
done by one of the rather tired gate valves. I imagine I could relocate
the meter and such, but I suspect that would violate some code because one
would have to assume a valve on the main line coming into the house would
have to be within a certain number of feet of the entry point. Of course
if one got super silly, the line could be accessed outside the house,
modified, and run clear around the house to the back of the structure and
brought in there. This of course would be very silly considering the
amount of digging that would be required and that would just not work.
grin

On Mar 8, 2010, at 1:09 PM, Dan Rossi wrote:

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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List Members At The Following address:
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[BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves

2010-03-07 Thread Scott Howell

Folks,

I am wondering if there is a valve made by Shark Bite or would have 
compression fittings. I do not know what it would be called, but let me 
describe the valve and the problem. Well first the problem. I heard a hissing 
noise from the fridge and we were about to leave the house, but I just couldn't 
leave it alone, I had to at least determine what the hissing sound was. So, 
finally I pulled the fridge out and am I glad I did. Yes, you probably guessed 
by now that the water line from the fridge to the basement had sprung a leak. A 
pin-hole leak, but a leak nevertheless. It was spitting water all over the 
place and I'm not sure how long it had been doing that, but I think I caught it 
early enough that it was not to large of a mess to clean up. Unfortunately this 
meant I had to cut the water to the entire house because the saddle valve had 
also failed to function when I turned it off. So, off to the box store and back 
home with a very very heavy, duty water line and included a new saddle valve. 
THe saddle valve was in my opinion a piece of fecal matter and I have little 
confidence in it holding up. I'm sure I'll get all sorts of opinions about 
saddle valves, but in my mind they do not thrill me very much. So, what I would 
much rather have is a valve that is of course a ball valve that would go 
inline. I would like to be able to cut out that piece of pipe where the saddle 
valve is, install a valve that would have a connection, which I could attach 
the water line too. Now, it may require more than what I am looking to do 
because I suspect to even install a mini branch to just accommodate the water 
line would be more complicated. I do have the option of adding another flexible 
water line and running that from under the kitchen sink with a T-splitter, run 
the water line along the basement ceiling, and back up to the fridge and I may 
end up doing this. Of course this means connecting to hoses and that is not a 
difficult problem either, just more work and more effort to be sure I tie 
things up to prevent anyone from possibly hitting it with something and 
damaging the line. Either way I may end up doing this and use a SHark connector 
to just replace that section of the line where there is that small hole. 
However, I thought I would ask if there is some sort of splitter I could put 
into the line that would have some sort of ball valve I could use to shut off 
the water to the fridge, but not the rest of the downstream line.
Also, one other question. I despariately need to replace the old gate valves at 
the meeter, and there is one on either side of the meter. These things are 
leaking only when messed with, bu they are really rusty feeling and will fail 
at some point. I understand the Shark valves may be used as well. Of of course 
I need to get someone to come and turn off the water at the street unless I 
could find a tool to do it myself. However, more important, how can I be sure I 
know the size of the pipe coming off the meeter? I am assuming it is 3/4 off 
the meeter and probably reduces to 3/4 at some point. The gent at the HD said 
to measure the pipe's outside diameter and that makes sense if I can use a 
tailor's tape, which I have. Otherwise, how could I determine this? I sure 
can't cut and then measure because that will never fly with the spouse. grin

tnx,

[BlindHandyMan] Off topic- help needed in Kansas City MO

2010-03-01 Thread Scott Howell

Hey folks,

Pleas forgive this off topic message, but this is the only group I 
subscribe too where there are possibly dog handlers. I have to travel to Kansas 
City MO this May and I will be staying at the Marriott Kansas CIty DOwntown and 
it seems there is not many places to walk a working dog for the purposes of 
relief. So, if anyone lives in that area or is familiar with that area and has 
any thoughts, would you please contact me off list at s.how...@verizon.net?
I'm sure I'll find a little scrap of grass for him and yeah yeah concrete 
training and all that is wonderful, but funny enough, finding concrete areas 
where I work/live is more difficult than grassy areas and well what can I say. 
grin

THanks,

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

2010-02-26 Thread Scott Howell

Funny this topic has come up. I saw a parabolic heater that I swear when you
stood right in front of it, you felt like you were standing outside on a very
Sunny day. These things are apparently incredibly efficient. I haven't
purchased one, but I have been rather tempted. Has anyone tried a parabolic
heater? The one I saw at Costco was made by Presto.
On Feb 25, 2010, at 11:33 AM, Alan Terrie Robbins wrote:

Lee,

Yes, I still have one. Not sure of the spelling but believe it is called a
Pelonis.

Al
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 10:52 AM
To: Blind Handyman
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

do any of you remember the name of the original small box type of
electric heater which had a clay disc and a blower built in? I was
going to look for one with friend but wanted to know the real name as
there are so many copies being sold. thanks. Lee

--
You will be audited by the Internal Revenue Service.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

2010-02-26 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Bob, thanks for the info. I am considering this just to take the chill out
of the basement. Generally I dont' mind at all, but there are those days where
it does seem a bit cooler than is comfortable while working. Apparently some
use these instead of their central heat. Well okay, they turn the heat way down
and use these in whatever room they are in. I have read they use about as much
electricity as a nightlight and that does seem a little hard to believe. Of
course it could all be true.

On Feb 26, 2010, at 9:10 AM, chiliblindman wrote:

Scott, I had one of these 50 years ago. Because of the shape it can reflect
the heat quite a distance forward in the direction it is pointed. The only
draw back was anything close to it in line got really hot and nothing could
be close in front of it. On the other hand if you wanted to make something
hot fast, they did the trick.
bob

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

2010-02-26 Thread Scott Howell

Thanks Bill. I know when I passed this thing at Costco, I could not believe how
much heat was pouring out of it. Of course it is directional and so would take
some time to really warm an area up unless you are directly in front of it. An
interesting idea for sure. It was interesting that the backside of the dish was
not that hot and I could actually put my hand almost on the cage in the front
without it burning me. grin
Quite an interesting heater.
On Feb 26, 2010, at 2:55 PM, wstep...@everestkc.net wrote:

Scott: Years and years ago, I had something similar to what you're talking
about I think. If you can recall those flying saucers, we had as kids
for sliding down hills, you'd have the basic shape. There was a little metal
stand on the back end of the thing, and the one I had, had a lightbulb socket
into which you screwwed the heating element. They really did work well as
long as you were within the line of sight of the thing. There are, or used to
be, some 35,000 BTU cyramic heaters that mounted on a propane tank that
worked very well too.

Bill Stephan
Kansas Citty MO
Email: wstep...@everestkc.net
Phone: (816)803-2469

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
Date: Friday, February 26, 2010 12:43 pm
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

Hi Bob, thanks for the info. I am considering this just to take
the chill out of the basement. Generally I dont' mind at all, but
there are those days where it does seem a bit cooler than is
comfortable while working. Apparently some use these instead of
their central heat. Well okay, they turn the heat way down and use
these in whatever room they are in. I have read they use about as
much electricity as a nightlight and that does seem a little hard
to believe. Of course it could all be true.

On Feb 26, 2010, at 9:10 AM, chiliblindman wrote:

Scott, I had one of these 50 years ago. Because of the shape it
can reflect
the heat quite a distance forward in the direction it is
pointed. The only
draw back was anything close to it in line got really hot and
nothing could
be close in front of it. On the other hand if you wanted to make
something
hot fast, they did the trick.
bob

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] my notions about gutters

2010-02-22 Thread Scott Howell

I had a sample of a product called the Gutter Brush, 
http://www.gutterbrush.com. At the time I thought perhaps they were a little 
expensive, but I'm rethinking this and I am wondering how effective they were.  
I would say it looks like a giant bottle brush and all the big stuff is 
apparently flushed off the top, while the little bits that make it down through 
the brush will flush down the spout. I only had the one gutter with a small 
piece to test and I found all the little crap piled up at the point where the 
brush started. So, I have to assume it would not have made it there if I had 
the entire gutter loaded with the brush. I would be curious if anyone on the 
list has ever used one of these and especially anyone who lives where snow and 
ice are a regular event.
On Feb 21, 2010, at 9:51 PM, clifford wrote:

 Dear List Members:
 My gutters are rarely iced over, as Hillbilly country only gets snow in 
 significant amounts about one out of three years. 
 Listening to some of the posts relating to ice problems, I recall the heat 
 tape which is used to wrap above ground water lines, here in this area. I am 
 wondering how effective electrical heat tape would be to thaw
 the gutters and keep them running?
 I have also wondered about the feasibility of installing a light weight 
 auger, similar to a widely spaced coil spring, which would be used to pull 
 the material which ends up in the gutter, in to a grinder located at the end 
 of the gutter at the down spout. I am enjoying the process of cleaning 
 gutters less and less as I mature. It would be nice to simply hit a button to 
 clean the gutters.
 
 Yours Truly,
 
 Clifford Wilson
 
 __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
 database 4885 (20100221) __
 
 The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
 
 http://www.eset.com
 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fwd: Speaking of icicles!!

2010-02-21 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Dave,

I sort of suspected that would be a little normal.  After all, we did only get 
a total of about 50 inches of snow or so and that is not including the snow we 
got just before Christmas.  We certainly have gotten more snow than I can 
recall in all the years I've been living in this area.  I mean I remember some 
pretty big storms back in my youth, but I don't think they quite were this 
large. grin.
On Feb 20, 2010, at 10:07 PM, Dave Andrus wrote:

 Hi Scott, 
 
 It does sound like you have insulated well. That is good. You are correct.
 There does need to be airflow and so not covering up the vents at the end
 was a good thing. 
 
 Sometimes icicles do happen. 
 
 Dave A. 
 
 Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of
 Jesus
 
 Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
 Lutheran Blind Mission
 888 215 2455
 HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Scott Howell
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 1:42 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fwd: Speaking of icicles!!
 
 Hi,
 
 I could easily see how this is a problem. I just added insulation
 to my attic and it was R30, which was rolled out over what was already
 there. The way my attic is configured is that at the ends of the roof,
 there is an empty area, which I gather is called the eves. The reason why I
 say gather is because what is interesting to me and I can't compare this to
 any other roofs as I have not crawled into a tun of attics, but there are
 vented panels that are on the underside of the roof. These have no wood,
 they are instead open. What I mean is if you removed the panels, you would
 be able to put your hand directly into the attic and touch the underside of
 the roof. So, I did not put insulation clear to the edge, but instead took
 it out to just the point behind this open area because I did not want to
 block the airflow. So, I found some small ice sickles, which seem to be more
 likely water that may have run backward or maybe more accurately off the
 edge of the gutter and flowed back under the eve. I'm making an assumption
 here because the ice sickles just seem to be hanging there, not quite
 attached to a flow, other than what was coming down over the edge of the
 gutter. When I have the roof replaced at some point and I mean replaced, not
 reshingled, I will check into barriers etc. I have not gone into the attic
 to see what is going on and I probably should. So, far we have not noticed
 any water coming into the home and I did go up and tear off the leaf guard
 things and busted up a lot of the ice in the gutters. So, maybe this will
 help get things flowing properly. :) This has been the worst WInter I can
 recall. And imagine, it will apparently rain or snow some on MOnday, which
 should add insult to injury.
 On Feb 19, 2010, at 10:24 PM, Dave Andrus wrote:
 
  Hi everyone,
  
  I grew up in northern Wisconsin. We were always told that if you have 
  icicles it means you do not have enough insulation in the attic. When 
  the sun melts snow from the top the water runs off the top. If you 
  have ice dams and icicles this means melt from the underside. This can 
  only happen from heat coming up from the rooms below.
  
  Certainly there are a few exceptions to this situation, but I suggest 
  you find out how much insulation you have. We now live in st. Louis. 
  Both here and up north they suggest an R30 or above for the attic.
  
  Dave A.
  
  Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the 
  cross of Jesus
  
  Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
  Lutheran Blind Mission
  888 215 2455
  HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG
  
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of john schwery
  Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 4:14 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fwd: Speaking of icicles!!
  
  Dan, here is an article from a Burgh paper. My wife is from the Burgh 
  and gets articles like this.
  
  text of forwarded message follows:
  
  Don't flip, homeowners, just let the water drip Friday, February 19, 
  2010 Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
  
  When water is dripping down your walls and pooling on the floor, you 
  don't want to hear someone say: Do nothing.
  
  Yet, that's probably the best advice roofers and insurance agents 
  have for the thousands of homeowners affected this week by ice dams.
  
  If you are one of them, your best hope for relief is that 
  temperatures go up or down -- soon.
  
  Every house has tons of icicles hanging from gutters. It's very 
  picturesque but it's bad news for homeowners and for us, said David 
  Thomas of Thomas  McMenamin, an Upper St. Clair insurance agency.
  
  Mr. Thomas, a part owner, has heard from nearly two dozen homeowners 
  complaining of interior leaking over the last two weeks. And he's 
  expecting

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fwd: Speaking of icicles!!

2010-02-21 Thread Scott Howell

I think I have now a total of 12 to 16 inches of insulation, but can't quite 
recall because I did not measure.  I was so determine to get it down and get 
out that I forgot to measure, but it for sure is not less than 12 inches and 
probably a bit more than that.  I purchased R30 insulation unfaced and added 
that on top of what was there and I have no idea what that stuff was because it 
probably is the original insulation installed when the house was built.
I'm pretty certain it has helped this WInter in either case. If I didn't use 
some of my attic for storage, I would have done the blown-n method for sure.
Good info to have, thanks.

On Feb 20, 2010, at 10:39 PM, Dave Andrus wrote:

 Hi,
 
 I believe its 8 inches of bat insulation is r30. 
 
 It does not hurt to have 36 to 40. this would be ganed by blowing in
 insulation. The company would factor the depth based on how much R factor
 you ask for. 
 
 Dave A.
 
 
 Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of
 Jesus
 
 Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
 Lutheran Blind Mission
 888 215 2455
 HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Spiro
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 9:29 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fwd: Speaking of icicles!!
 
 sorry, how many inches of fiberglass per R?
 So r30 is ?
 Congrats on your relocation.
 
 On Fri, 19 Feb 2010, Bob Kennedy wrote:
 
  They suggest R30 in the attic here too but that's to keep the air
 conditioning in the house during the summer. Thank God there is not enough
 snow to worry about any longer. Those years in Buffalo still bring bad
 memories now and then...
  - Original Message -
  From: Dave Andrus
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 10:24 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fwd: Speaking of icicles!!
 
 
 
  Hi everyone,
 
  I grew up in northern Wisconsin. We were always told that if you have 
  icicles it means you do not have enough insulation in the attic. When 
  the sun melts snow from the top the water runs off the top. If you 
  have ice dams and icicles this means melt from the underside. This can 
  only happen from heat coming up from the rooms below.
 
  Certainly there are a few exceptions to this situation, but I suggest 
  you find out how much insulation you have. We now live in st. Louis. 
  Both here and up north they suggest an R30 or above for the attic.
 
  Dave A.
 
  Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the 
  cross of Jesus
 
  Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
  Lutheran Blind Mission
  888 215 2455
  HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG
 
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of john schwery
  Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 4:14 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fwd: Speaking of icicles!!
 
  Dan, here is an article from a Burgh paper. My wife is from the Burgh 
  and gets articles like this.
 
  text of forwarded message follows:
 
  Don't flip, homeowners, just let the water drip Friday, February 19, 
  2010 Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
 
  When water is dripping down your walls and pooling on the floor, you 
  don't want to hear someone say: Do nothing.
 
  Yet, that's probably the best advice roofers and insurance agents 
  have for the thousands of homeowners affected this week by ice dams.
 
  If you are one of them, your best hope for relief is that 
  temperatures go up or down -- soon.
 
  Every house has tons of icicles hanging from gutters. It's very 
  picturesque but it's bad news for homeowners and for us, said David 
  Thomas of Thomas  McMenamin, an Upper St. Clair insurance agency.
 
  Mr. Thomas, a part owner, has heard from nearly two dozen homeowners 
  complaining of interior leaking over the last two weeks. And he's 
  expecting a lot more.
 
  As long as temperatures stay around freezing, snow and ice will 
  continue to thaw and refreeze on the roof, where ice at the edge 
  holds back water behind it. That water works its way through the 
  shingles -- even climbing up a pitched roof -- and drips down inside 
  the walls, damaging wallboard, trim, insulation and sometimes flooring.
 
  So what can you do? Nothing, except catch or mop up the water you can 
  see and maybe poke a hole in the wall or ceiling to drain what you 
  can't see.
 
  Sam W. Gregg, 79, of Peters, said that about four days ago, he and 
  his wife noticed water dripping down a window in the dining room of 
  their 50-year-old home. Then, the same thing happened in their living 
  room and two bedrooms.
 
  Since it was a little warmer today, it's getting heavier, he

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Great idea.

2010-02-18 Thread Scott Howell

Well I just want all the damn snow to go away and how it gets done is not
important. I had to get my ladder and reach the most offending gutter with a
rather large ice dam on it. I had installed some covers that prevented leaves
from getting into the gutter, but it seems the end result may have been a
problem. THe problem seems in this case that the snow melted and turned to ice
and of course covered the slots in the cover. So , next thing I know I have
these rather large ice sickles hanging down and well little ice sickles back
under the over-hang. Of course I got ice running down the side of the house, so
I could only envision ice forming between the walls etc. I do not believe this
is the case, but I got my hammer and pry bar and went to war against the ice.
Well I cleared all the ice from the cover, but I can't quite get it off yet. I
think there is still a bit to frozen or something preventing me from removing
it. I however think maybe these covers are not such a great idea.
So, maybe I need a torch instead. grin.
On Feb 18, 2010, at 2:50 PM, Spiro wrote:

the snow to water conversion is either 10 inch to 1 inch or 8 inch of snow
to 1 inch.

On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Victor Gouveia wrote:

Only problem I see with this idea is the amount of water you'd generate,
thereby flooding the path of least resistance.

In other words, you'd go from walking in 10 feet of snow, to swimming in 10
feet of freezing water.

Hmm, not much of a trade off.

Better stick with your original plan, that of working from home, and
enjoying Teresa and Sofia's company, nes pas, mon ami? Smile.

Victor

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

2010-01-24 Thread Scott Howell

Yep, not a good idea in my opinion and I wouldn't even consider doing something 
like that.  Now I do remember people doing this back in the day and they would 
plug in interesting stuff like humidifiers and the like.  Just a bad idea and 
even as a kid who knew little about electricity, I pondered the wisdom of such 
things.  I do recall Lee the old-style porcelain fixtures and those adapters 
you could screw into the fixtures. I in fact remember my father having one in 
the basement and I'm trying to recall what was plugged into it. I'm sure it was 
something the fixture wasn't really rated for of course.  The things people 
will do .
Now here is one for you that falls along the same topical line. Using one of 
those work lights (the type with the metal housing) attached directly to the 
wire coming off the switch with a couple of wire nuts and allowed to hang 
freely.  Yep, that is what the previous owner did here. Now that was clever, 
don't you agree? Oh and of course I took care of that as soon as I moved in. :)

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

2010-01-22 Thread Scott Howell

I would not plug a computer into a light socket for any reason. Your better
off installing an proper outlet. There is nothing to be gained by feeding
extension cords through walls etc. and certainly not using a light socket. Of
course this is just my opinion and I am not an electrician. My concern would be
the amount of current being drawn, possible overheating of the light socket,
and I am not an insurance expert either, but let's just say it was not up to
code using a light socket in this manner and there was a fire. It is possible
the insurance company would use this as a means to avoid paying a claim. Just a
few thoughts.
On Jan 21, 2010, at 9:35 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

Well the least expensive will be to avoid an electrician. I don't think the
light socket will be harmed running a computer. My concern is the weight of
the cord staying plugged in at that height and angle. I'd not drill a hole in
the wall and run a cord through the hole. That will look worse than a cord
running along the wall.

What you can do if you don't care what it looks like inside the closet would
be to plug a short extension cord into the light socket and then a couple
pieces of Gorilla tape across the cord would keep it from pulling out because
of its weight. Red neck I know but it would work.

While you're at it, you may want to run a piece of tape across the light
switch so it doesn't get turned off while the computer is running. It would
be a reminder strip.
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer Jackson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 9:24 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

Hello Everyone,

I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It has
certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of the
things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to monopolize my
dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all it's accessories
inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is going to fit nicely,
but I am not certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.

I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the corner
to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an unsightly
hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and
I have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to screw into that,
but I am concerned that it might not be meant to have that much of an
electrical draw on it. My third idea is to use the bit on the drill that is
used for installing deadbolts and making a small round whole in the wall that
is shared with my living room and just plugging it into the outlet there.
Lastly, I could have an electrician or some other skilled person install a
new outlet in the closet.

I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on this.
So given that, what are your thoughts please?

Jennifer

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wireless video transmission.

2010-01-05 Thread Scott Howell

There are devices that can take video/audio streams and push them over the 
network such as an Apple TV. However the faster the network if your doing this 
wirelessly, will provide the best experience. If it is possible to connect the 
device to the router directly, that will provide the best possible results. YOu 
can stream Hulu programming from the web using a computer, but not sure if 
there is a dedicated device for this. You might want to consider a computer 
such as an APple Mac Mini, which is physically small and has been used as a 
multimedia center with great success.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] slip resistant footware another great test

2010-01-05 Thread Scott Howell

Do you know if they make the Ultra Grip that would fit cowboy boots or boots
with a more pointed toe or are they more universal?
Oh and would you mind sharing the contact info again? I thought I had filed it
away, but cannot put my cursor on it. grin.

THanks,
On Jan 4, 2010, at 11:15 PM, Lenny McHugh wrote:

Well, today I went for almost a mile walk. Most of the sidewalks were
cleared but there was an occasional icy spot. I had no problem walking on
the clear dry pavement and could tell when on ice but no sliding. Once or
twice my foot slid less than an inch. then later we had to go looking for a
new microwave. I kept my boots on with the ultra grip lite attached. Walked
across a dry parking lot into wall-mart and walked all around the store with
not removing them or experiencing any difference than just walking with the
boots. When we came out there was a light covering of snow and again no
problem.
I talked to the manufacturer about sizing. I want to get some for my wife
and daughters. He told me that his wife wears a size 6 and uses the very
small. For my wife size 8 they suggested a small. If there is any problem
with the size exchange is no problem. I also learned that there is a life
time warranty against manufacturer defects.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] slip resistant footware another great test

2010-01-05 Thread Scott Howell

Thank you for that information.
On Jan 5, 2010, at 7:25 AM, Lenny McHugh wrote:

Hey Scott, The distributor that I used is http://www.slipresistant.net

Or you could contact the manufacturer:
Jordan David Safety
400 Babylon Road
Horsham, PA 19044

i...@jordandavid.com

P 1-888-NO-SLIPS
P 1-888-667-5477

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 5:35 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] slip resistant footware another great test

THanks,
On Jan 4, 2010, at 11:15 PM, Lenny McHugh wrote:

Well, today I went for almost a mile walk. Most of the sidewalks were
cleared but there was an occasional icy spot. I had no problem walking on
the clear dry pavement and could tell when on ice but no sliding. Once or
twice my foot slid less than an inch. then later we had to go looking for
a
new microwave. I kept my boots on with the ultra grip lite attached.
Walked
across a dry parking lot into wall-mart and walked all around the store
with
not removing them or experiencing any difference than just walking with
the
boots. When we came out there was a light covering of snow and again no
problem.
I talked to the manufacturer about sizing. I want to get some for my wife
and daughters. He told me that his wife wears a size 6 and uses the very
small. For my wife size 8 they suggested a small. If there is any problem
with the size exchange is no problem. I also learned that there is a life
time warranty against manufacturer defects.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.

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Visit

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roku's...new set-top box for connecting Internet entertainment to the TV... is a real winner.

2010-01-05 Thread Scott Howell

Yep, that is the direction I would go and plan to go in the future.
On Jan 5, 2010, at 8:53 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

I am not interested in the Roqu mainly because it isn't accessible, and, I
have no desire to purchase something that is a dedicated media center.
They typically can only handle a subset of media formats. I see no reason
not to use a full blown computer with a full operating system so that I
can stream any formats I want, including displaying digital photos and
such.

I am considering just purchasing a used laptop and a wireless keyboard and
hardwiring the laptop to the TV and the rest of the audio visual system.
Then I can still sit on my couch and operate the laptop even though it is
tucked away over by the TV.

To be honest, it won't be much more expensive to do it that way than to
purchase one of these adapters. Then I can play my music through the
stereo as well as stream video from Hulu and such.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wireless video transmission.

2010-01-05 Thread Scott Howell

Ah Dan, you are killing me. Man I have been a Mac user for about five years now
and I wouldn't go back to windows, but then I haven't owned a windows machine
since the late 90's. I was and am still a big fan of Linux. grin.
Only my employer makes me use windows. However, seriously, a number of folks
have used a Mac Mini as a means to play all sorts of content on a TV.
Apparently it works extremely well.
Whatever route you go, I hope you find something that meets your needs.
On Jan 5, 2010, at 8:56 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

Scott,

But that would require me touching a .. ug, I can hardly say it, .. a
mac. *GRIN*

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Special Happy Birthday

2010-01-05 Thread Scott Howell

I'd like to echo the same comments. Many more sir.
On Jan 5, 2010, at 2:16 PM, Ray Boyce wrote:

 Hi Dave
 
 I also would like to wish you a happy birthday have lots of fun.
 
 Ray
 
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of David Ferrin
 Sent: Wednesday, 6 January 2010 2:47 AM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Special Happy Birthday
 
 Thanks, I already called miss Harris to tell her to stop picking on the soon
 
 to be elderly.
 David Ferrin
 www.jaws-users.com
 Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Bill Gallik billgal...@centurytel.net
 mailto:BillGallik%40centurytel.net 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 9:46 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Special Happy Birthday
 
 David 21? Yep, your right Cathy.
 
 David was born the same year as I was so that makes me only 20 years old. 
 Ah yes, life is goo'oo'oo'oo'oo'oo'oo'ood!
 
 Holland's Person, Bill
 E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net mailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.net 
 - The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 Send any questions regarding list management to:
 blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com 
 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_
 pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
 PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
 Or
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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 List Members At The Following address:
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 address for more information:
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 just send a blank message to:
 blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo
 mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo ! Groups Links
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Send any questions regarding list management to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] toilet supply line exploded

2010-01-05 Thread Scott Howell

I have been using the brayed hoses and so far and knock on wood, none have 
failed.
On Jan 5, 2010, at 6:49 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

 I had the same problem and mine was only a little over 2 years.

[BlindHandyMan] insulation question

2009-12-29 Thread Scott Howell

Hi all,

I have a question about a type of insulation that would best fit this specific 
application. I don't know if this particular application is so much unique, but 
any thoughts are appreciated.
The way my house sits on the foundation, results in one section hanging over 
the basement walls by about 14 inches or so. When I first moved here there was 
no insulation and you can bet the floors in the bedrooms over that short area 
got quite cold. So, I stuffed some insulation in there and can't recall what R 
rating etc. is in there, but it is faced. So, I'm thinking that perhaps I'll 
add or replace that insulation with something, which may be even more 
effective. So, I'm looking for some ideas for what might be a proper insulation 
such as maybe attic insulation? Would the fiberglass be best in this 
application or some of that foam material or maybe a combo of the two? I think 
what is there does help, but I've noticed some cold air getting in, so I wanted 
to remove what is there, inspect, plug any holes or gaps and then re-insulate.

THanks,

Re: [BlindHandyMan] insulation question

2009-12-29 Thread Scott Howell

Yes, this is very helpful and thank you very much.
On Dec 29, 2009, at 9:07 AM, Dale Leavens wrote:

Hi Scott,

Some of the modern spray-in foams are probably a little better than glass
fiber but they can be pretty expensive to have installed particularly a small
area like you describe. The main advantage is that they will fill the space
snugly and completely and in the process probably help seal some air
infiltration points. This will require an installer though so a small area
becomes relatively expensive.

Sealing all air infiltration leaks is the first an most helpful. This might
include where the wall meets the floor if you can get some access to that.

The main advantage to using fiberglass bats is that you can more easily fit
them into the spaces if you cut and fluff them with care. Snug but not tight
or compressed.

If the joist bays run over the basement wall then my advice is to extend the
bats through the bay space a foot or more over the basement wall so you are
insulating some part of the floor over the edge of the basement. Don't be shy
to fill the entire bay, if a 2 by 10 bay then fill it with fully 10 inches of
fiber glass. Depending on the design and how much exterior wall extends below
the floor you can install what ever thickness of extruded foam board under
the fiber glass to hold it up under the floor and to form another contiguous
layer of insulation over the under side of the joists. This will hold the
fiber glass up into the bay space and provide some insulation to reduce the
thermal bridging through the wooden joists.

I have a similar situation to yours, where I extended the master bedroom out
over the first story wall by 2 feet. I filled the space with fiber glass and
had room for 3 and a half inches of the blue foam under then strapping and
soffit. We have had it as cold as minus 40 with no perceptible additional
cold on the hardwood floor along the edge of that room. Mind you the poly air
barrier up the wall also wraps under the fiber glass and on up the second
story wall as well then on up over the ceiling.

Hope this is helpful.

If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 8:35 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] insulation question

Hi all,

I have a question about a type of insulation that would best fit this
specific application. I don't know if this particular application is so much
unique, but any thoughts are appreciated.
The way my house sits on the foundation, results in one section hanging over
the basement walls by about 14 inches or so. When I first moved here there
was no insulation and you can bet the floors in the bedrooms over that short
area got quite cold. So, I stuffed some insulation in there and can't recall
what R rating etc. is in there, but it is faced. So, I'm thinking that
perhaps I'll add or replace that insulation with something, which may be even
more effective. So, I'm looking for some ideas for what might be a proper
insulation such as maybe attic insulation? Would the fiberglass be best in
this application or some of that foam material or maybe a combo of the two? I
think what is there does help, but I've noticed some cold air getting in, so
I wanted to remove what is there, inspect, plug any holes or gaps and then
re-insulate.

THanks,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List
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http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

2009-12-24 Thread Scott Howell

I'd also like to say merry Christmas and happy New Year to each of you as well.

[BlindHandyMan] Ooma Phone Service

2009-12-15 Thread Scott Howell

Hi folks,

Well this is sort of handy man related in that I recently purchased the 
Ooma VOIP phone service and have been trying it out for a couple of days.  
Overall it seems to live up to all the hype.  I am curious first if any of you 
have used it or know someone that has used it and do you know if anyone has 
ever connected a satellite receiver to it?
I have a number of options available to me and one of those is to keep the most 
basic landline service and have the Ooma device share that service. So, most 
calls accept toll-free calls go out over the Ooma line from what I can tell, 
but all other calls go out on the Ooma. THe advantage of this of course offers 
fail-over capability. The other option is to split my phone lines off from the 
lines coming into the house and what this allows is for me to take a dry-loop 
for the DSL line and tie that directly to one phone jack in the home and the 
other jack would allow me to possibly serve all the phones in the house just 
from the Ooma device. I'm not entirely sure how all the magic works in the box, 
but let me further explain something.
The Ooma hub has a few ports and just to give you an idea how this works, there 
you connect this between your dsl/cable modem and your router. You can attach 
it directly to your router, but apparently the benefit of putting it before the 
router is the ability to prioritize voice calls over large file transfers and 
the like. Now there are two RJ11 phone jacks and one is marked phone and the 
other is marked wall port. How you apparently hook this up regardless of 
whether you have dial tone is the phone goes to the phone jack and provides a 
simulated dial tone and the wall port goes to the jack on the wall. There is a 
relay in the box that apparently can detect dial tone and my assumption is that 
based on the type of call, the unit can switch between the VOIP and copper 
service.  Apparently if you disconnect the dial tone and you want to have other 
phones on the VOIP service, you purchase what amounts to a satellite that you 
connect in the same manner.  What I was thinking is wether it would be possible 
to skip the satellites and just reverse the connection or better yet just 
connect the wall jack to the phone port and share the dial tone with all the 
phones.  I know of course that isn't supported and would mean I'd have to 
likely split the DSL line from all other lines in the house, but just giving 
the idea some thought and wanted to see what others thought.

tnx,

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ooma Phone Service

2009-12-15 Thread Scott Howell

Tom, that is pretty cool and unlimited cell service would be interesting. I
almost see a day coming when mobile phones will achieve speeds of cable perhaps
and everyone will have their own computer tethered to the phone and well copper
will slowly be replaced. Okay, I'm being a little nuts here, but truth is I'm
just looking to reduce my cost as much as possible. I am working toward perhaps
dropping the landline and only using the computer, but just want to see how
this whole VOIP thing works out.

On Dec 15, 2009, at 9:38 AM, Tom Hodges wrote:

Scott, I know what you mean about the kids Phone service for the adults
begins to deteriorate when the kids come of age.

. We had cell phones only in our house until we went with the phone company
for computer service and we had to get the landline to get the wireless
router. We hardly ever use the landline, since our cell phone service with
A T and T doesn't charge us time if we talk to anyone else on the same
service. I think, in the future, there won't be any time restrictions on
cell phones since it's getting more competitive. We already get free
evenings, weekends and some companies are already advertising unlimited
minutes.

Regards, Tom

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 9:01 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ooma Phone Service

Tom,

That is great and I respect your choice. I however have a problem paying
about $80 a month to the phone company for a service I really done need. I
could cut the landline off completely and save about $40 a month and that
translates into some real cash. The only reason I do not want to do this is
I have a kid and although he's not a phone hog yet, give him a couple more
years and the damn thing will likely ring off the hook. So, giving him a
cell phone ain't gonna happen. So, the Ooma provides me free local/long
distant calls for only the cost of the box. You can get more info at
http://www.ooma.com.
So, this is purely a cost-cutting measure on my part. If I did not have a
child, trust me, my wife and I could do just fine with the cell phones
alone.

On Dec 15, 2009, at 8:32 AM, Tom Hodges wrote:

I prefer to keep life a lot more simple than that. I have no idea what
this
thing is for. My landline and my cell phone provide me with all I need in
phone service.

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 5:35 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Differences in Ipods?

2009-12-04 Thread Scott Howell

Claudia,

Since I have both a Nano and an iPhone, which is essentially an iPod Touch, let
me explain for you. First a Nano is very simple in it's operation. You have a
wheel that you move through the menus including music genres, artists, etc.
There are a few items that as far as I know still do not speak and that is
items like the clock, contacts, and a few other items. THe iPod Touch (you must
purchase the 16Gb or greater models for speech) contain VoiceOver, which is the
same screen reader on the Macintosh computer and iPHone. This enables a greater
range of functionality such as e-mail, web surfing, purchasing content such as
music, audio books, applications etc. from the unit itself. All menus and stock
applications are accessible and so are a wide range of applications. The
interface of the iPod Touch as with the iPHone is a completely touch
screen-based interface and there is a learning curve, but it is not impossible
to learn to use the device. In short, you use your fingers to navigate and tap
on the items of interest and even text entry is very easy once you have had an
opportunity to learn. It really will come down to what you are looking for in a
device. If you want something that is very simple, provides the ability to play
content only, a Nano will meet your needs. However, if you are looking for a
device that provides greater access to a wide range of content such as
streaming audio, allowing you to surf the web, play some games, and so forth,
an iPod Touch will be the device of choice.
As far as getting content on the devices, iTunes is the only way. I know this
is an issue for some people, but I see no disadvantage in using iTUnes as it
provides a pretty powerful way to manage content such as providing you the
ability to create and manage playlists based on a wide range of criteria,
central way of managing the content, and etc.
I am a Mac user so my experience with iTunes is different than on the PC, but
there are a number of people using iTunes on the PC successfully. The nice part
about iTunes is you can keep your content on the external drive and configure
iTunes to access the content from that drive and that drive only.
Here is a URL you can look at that provides some information on the gestures
used with the iPhone, which are basically the same gestures for the iPod Touch
with the exception of those used for answering/ending calls etc.
http://help.apple.com/iphone/3/voiceover/en/iphddd0db38.html

I hope this helps and feel free to contact me with other questions.

On Dec 4, 2009, at 3:35 AM, Claudia wrote:

Hi,

I am really considering an Ipod, but I truly don't even know where to begin.
What is the difference between the Ipod Touch the Ipod Nano?

Is it difficult to use Itunes to load your music, onto the unit?
Can you load existing music from your computer's hardrive or an external
unit, onto the Ipod, without having to use Itunes?

I have my entire CD collection on an external hardrive, but will I need to
load it all into Itunes, in order for it to work?
Thanks.

Claudia
MSN: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net

Skype: claudiadr2009

Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while
the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address
for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Differences in Ipods?

2009-12-04 Thread Scott Howell

Hi Tom,

Unfortunately none of the hard drive-based iPods, which are referred to as the 
iPod Classic has the capability for speech. I know that you can hack the iPod 
Classic and add Rockbox, but you loose I believe some functionality with iTunes 
and honestly when I tried RockBox several years ago, I did not find it at all 
satisfactory. My chief complaint was the speech seemed flaky at times and so I 
can't recommend that solution.
However, there apparently is a device that is a bit expensive and is a separate 
unit that can be attached, which provides pretty good access to that model. I'm 
trying to remember the name, but I heard a podcast on BLind COol Tech, 
http://www.blindcooltech.com. Some reason the name iPod Tell or something like 
that sticks in my mind and it was made by Cobolt (probably spelled that 
incorrectly), but think it is the same company that makes the talking tape 
measure.

On Dec 4, 2009, at 8:06 AM, Tom Hodges wrote:

 Scott, I just read your posting and I didn't know any of the ipods had
 speech. I have a 80 gig one, I don't know what they call that model.
 Anyway, I've had it for two years and was wondering if there is a way this
 one will talk to me. If not, do you know if it can be converted to have
 speech?
 
 Any information regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated.
 
 Regards, Tom Hodges
 Newport, Kentucky
 
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Scott Howell
 Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 6:30 AM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Differences in Ipods?
 
 Claudia,
 
 Since I have both a Nano and an iPhone, which is essentially an iPod Touch,
 let me explain for you. First a Nano is very simple in it's operation. You
 have a wheel that you move through the menus including music genres,
 artists, etc. There are a few items that as far as I know still do not speak
 and that is items like the clock, contacts, and a few other items. THe iPod
 Touch (you must purchase the 16Gb or greater models for speech) contain
 VoiceOver, which is the same screen reader on the Macintosh computer and
 iPHone. This enables a greater range of functionality such as e-mail, web
 surfing, purchasing content such as music, audio books, applications etc.
 from the unit itself. All menus and stock applications are accessible and so
 are a wide range of applications. The interface of the iPod Touch as with
 the iPHone is a completely touch screen-based interface and there is a
 learning curve, but it is not impossible to learn to use the device. In
 short, you use your fingers to navigate and tap on the items of interest and
 even text entry is very easy once you have had an opportunity to learn. It
 really will come down to what you are looking for in a device. If you want
 something that is very simple, provides the ability to play content only, a
 Nano will meet your needs. However, if you are looking for a device that
 provides greater access to a wide range of content such as streaming audio,
 allowing you to surf the web, play some games, and so forth, an iPod Touch
 will be the device of choice.
 As far as getting content on the devices, iTunes is the only way. I know
 this is an issue for some people, but I see no disadvantage in using iTUnes
 as it provides a pretty powerful way to manage content such as providing you
 the ability to create and manage playlists based on a wide range of
 criteria, central way of managing the content, and etc.
 I am a Mac user so my experience with iTunes is different than on the PC,
 but there are a number of people using iTunes on the PC successfully. The
 nice part about iTunes is you can keep your content on the external drive
 and configure iTunes to access the content from that drive and that drive
 only.
 Here is a URL you can look at that provides some information on the gestures
 used with the iPhone, which are basically the same gestures for the iPod
 Touch with the exception of those used for answering/ending calls etc.
 http://help.apple.com/iphone/3/voiceover/en/iphddd0db38.html
 
 I hope this helps and feel free to contact me with other questions.
 
 On Dec 4, 2009, at 3:35 AM, Claudia wrote:
 
  Hi,
  
  I am really considering an Ipod, but I truly don't even know where to
 begin.
  What is the difference between the Ipod Touch  the Ipod Nano?
  
  Is it difficult to use Itunes to load your music, onto the unit?
  Can you load existing music from your computer's hardrive or an external
  unit, onto the Ipod, without having to use Itunes?
  
  I have my entire CD collection on an external hardrive, but will I need to
  load it all into Itunes, in order for it to work?
  Thanks.
  
  Claudia
  MSN: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
  
  Skype: claudiadr2009
  
  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  our-safe-haven-subscr

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Differences in Ipods?

2009-12-04 Thread Scott Howell

Ah, that's right because there is no longer a 16Gb version if I recall
correctly. SOrry about that, it's the iPhone that has to be the 3GS and that
starts as far as I know with the 16Gb model. Thanks for correcting that error.
On Dec 4, 2009, at 10:31 AM, Don wrote:

Hi Scott, good post, I just purchased the I-pod touch. just one correction,
on the I-phone, it does need to be the 16, are 32 GB versions in order to
talk with voice over, but with the I-pod touch, only the 32 and 64 GB
version, have voice over.
I bought the 32 GB version.
I love it, I can check my mail quicker than on the computer, I am quickly
becoming an apple fan. safari is great for surfing the web. Talk later.

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Differences in Ipods?

Claudia,

Since I have both a Nano and an iPhone, which is essentially an iPod
Touch, let me explain for you. First a Nano is very simple in it's
operation. You have a wheel that you move through the menus including
music genres, artists, etc. There are a few items that as far as I know
still do not speak and that is items like the clock, contacts, and a few
other items. THe iPod Touch (you must purchase the 16Gb or greater models
for speech) contain VoiceOver, which is the same screen reader on the
Macintosh computer and iPHone. This enables a greater range of
functionality such as e-mail, web surfing, purchasing content such as
music, audio books, applications etc. from the unit itself. All menus and
stock applications are accessible and so are a wide range of applications.
The interface of the iPod Touch as with the iPHone is a completely touch
screen-based interface and there is a learning curve, but it is not
impossible to learn to use the device. In short, you use your fingers to
navigate and tap on the items of interest and even text entry is very easy
once you have had an opportunity to learn. It really will come down to
what you are looking for in a device. If you want something that is very
simple, provides the ability to play content only, a Nano will meet your
needs. However, if you are looking for a device that provides greater
access to a wide range of content such as streaming audio, allowing you to
surf the web, play some games, and so forth, an iPod Touch will be the
device of choice.
As far as getting content on the devices, iTunes is the only way. I know
this is an issue for some people, but I see no disadvantage in using
iTUnes as it provides a pretty powerful way to manage content such as
providing you the ability to create and manage playlists based on a wide
range of criteria, central way of managing the content, and etc.
I am a Mac user so my experience with iTunes is different than on the PC,
but there are a number of people using iTunes on the PC successfully. The
nice part about iTunes is you can keep your content on the external drive
and configure iTunes to access the content from that drive and that drive
only.
Here is a URL you can look at that provides some information on the
gestures used with the iPhone, which are basically the same gestures for
the iPod Touch with the exception of those used for answering/ending calls
etc.
http://help.apple.com/iphone/3/voiceover/en/iphddd0db38.html

I hope this helps and feel free to contact me with other questions.

On Dec 4, 2009, at 3:35 AM, Claudia wrote:

Hi,

I am really considering an Ipod, but I truly don't even know where to
begin.
What is the difference between the Ipod Touch the Ipod Nano?

Is it difficult to use Itunes to load your music, onto the unit?
Can you load existing music from your computer's hardrive or an external
unit, onto the Ipod, without having to use Itunes?

I have my entire CD collection on an external hardrive, but will I need
to
load it all into Itunes, in order for it to work?
Thanks.

Claudia
MSN: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net

Skype: claudiadr2009

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!

2009-12-03 Thread Scott Howell

Holy crap! That is one big dog and guiding you? That size you might as well
just ride the bugger. Man I can only imagine the harness that had to be made to
fit that monster. No wonder he can reach and gee, I'll be very interested in
how you resolved. THis. I guess my techniques would never work for a dog that
size. grin
On Dec 3, 2009, at 5:29 PM, Jewel wrote:

Tom! I train my own guides and have done so since 1960. My new bloke is a
mastiff so that will
give you some idea how big he is.
I cast my mind back 11 years to when Guido who I retired last weekend was the
same age as Buddy is
now: 13 and a half months: and I reckon that Buddy is even better. He is
going to be, given a bit
more experience and age, a fantastic guide.
This struggle I am having with his helping himself to things on the kitchen
counter or on the table
is render that much more of a battle because I am having to prove that I am
smarter than he is. I
am * almost sure that I am, but he is not going to be defeated without very
definite proof of that,
and, to date, I have not presented that proof!

Jewel

- Original Message -
From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!

Jewel,
Yeah considering the size of some of the guide dogs I've seen recently I'm
not surprised about Buddy's reach.

One advantage, i think, of the babby monitor idea is that
the correction comes from you, the boss lady, where corrections should
come from, not from some unknown noise maker. but the system made for pets
might be good if it's not too expensive.

Tom Fowle

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The
Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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information:
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question

2009-11-16 Thread Scott Howell

I agree and btw, CLiff if you can find that screwdriver I've temporarily lost,
I'd appreciate it.grin
On Nov 15, 2009, at 10:44 PM, Lee A. Stone wrote:

and all of us here Brother Cliff are glad you were Exposed to the
rest of the world . Makes a person feel good if you tried. Now I bet
you have a good bit of wooden handled screw drivers in your lot and
that is good too. I am out of here in a few mimnutes up u and away. Lee

On
Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 09:51:45PM
-0500, clifford wrote:
Dear List members:
I was in a chat room on a site for blind folks and their friends, and the
subject turned to the events of the day. My first wife and I engaged in
some spring cleaning in November, and we can not figure out whether we are
behind several months, or ahead several months. In any event, I was
commenting about my collection of screw-drivers, which has gotten out of
control, and I am telling all of my friends and family that this Christmas
need not involve screw-drivers.
One of the participants on the site asked me, what would a blind person do
with a screw-driver. I explained that I had disassembled a chair today and
reassembled the good parts from two chairs to make one good one. This
gentleman apparently has not been exposed to handyman activities at all.
While I don't perform as many tasks as I did as a younger man, I am
astounded at the lack of opportunity some blind folks have. Their parents,
teachers, and friends have protected them too much, in my country boy's
opinion.

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
Moustache rides, 50 cents.
.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question

2009-11-16 Thread Scott Howell

I find that to be true and probably more so at Home Depot, but I think a lot of 
this has to do with the fact we've gotten to know some of the employees. Lord 
knows I never miss a chance to pick on the cute young female employees. grin.

On Nov 16, 2009, at 2:33 PM, Alan  Terrie Robbins wrote:

 Where I live in upstate New York, Lowes  Home Depot are actually right next
 door to each other. I have had good luck with both
 
 Al
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Tom Hodges
 Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 2:29 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question
 
 They try a little harder around here in Newport, Kentucky. The reason is
 lowes and Home Depot are about 8 miles apart. I am just across the bridge
 from Cincinnati, Ohio and there are probably three more of each in the
 general area.
 
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
 Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 2:08 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question
 
 Our Home Depot learned this lesson when we went
 to buy a $700 item. My husband was with me so
 they thought they could ignore my request to open
 a large box. When I said that we would be going
 to Lowes which is located 125 miles away on the
 other side of the island because they knew the
 value of customer service, the man had the nerve
 to actually laugh. I laughed too, on my way out
 of the store. I won't deal with that clerk anymore.
 Betsy
 At 09:01 AM 11/16/2009, you wrote:
 
 
 I agree with you a hundred percent Betsy. Lowes is very good about
 opening
 packages for inspection. Home Depot, on the other hand, is not so
 accommodating but if you tell them what you said, all of a sudden, they
 change their attitude.
 
 Tom Hodges
 
 From:
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]
 On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
 Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 1:41 PM
 To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question
 
 Aloha Matt,
 I would take one of your bits with you and tell
 them to open the package for you so you know what
 you're buying. If they are doing their job, they
 won't mind opening it if they think you're going
 to buy it. If they open the wrong one, or sell
 you the wrong one, they'll have to deal with an
 open package when you return it anyway. I hate
 those plastic packages. If they give me trouble,
 I ask them if they would buy something they
 couldn't see and didn't know if it would work. Changes their attitude
 quickly.
 Betsy
 At 06:03 AM 11/16/2009, you wrote:
  
  
  Does anyone know a good handle out there I can get for my screw driver
 bits?
  I have a ton of those and my good ratcheting
  handle walked off in my brother's pocket. My
  brother is no longer welcome in my home much
  because of general untrustworthyness stemming
  from drug use and bad choices, so I feel pretty
  confident in searching for a new one to buy.
  This handle had a ratcheting and locking piece,
  and you could change the direction of the
  ratcheting with a switch. The only thing it
  didn't do was bend, or fold sideways and I figure they have those.
  I got this handle in a socket and wrench set, it
  was a package deal, probably by craftsman
  The screw driver bits are probably six sided
  ends which fit into the screwdriver handle. I
  think that's pretty standard. I had another handle, but it's not
 ratcheting.
  Just figured someone might have a suggestion
  which would save me the frustration of buying
  that which I can't see under the plastic.
  Thanks,
  
  Matt
  - Original Message -
  From: Tom Hodges
  To:
 
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroup
 s.
 comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 9:32 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question
  
  I just counted my screw drivers. I have 57 of them. I must have lost
 one
  or two of them, I thought I had more.
  
  Tom
  
  From:
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]
  On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 10:02 AM
  To:
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question

Re: [BlindHandyMan] best talking thermostat

2009-11-15 Thread Scott Howell

Al, I also agree the VIP is very good in deed. I've been using one for about 
five years and have not had any difficulties with it.
On Nov 15, 2009, at 7:12 AM, Alan  Terrie Robbins wrote:

 Ron,
 
 I did not see a lot of response to your post so i thought I'd add my two
 cents. The 800 + choices you found as a result of your search must have
 considerable duplication as I don't think there are that many vendors our
 there. I have only used one model and that is the VIP talking thermostat.
 The website is:
 
 www.talkingthermostat.com
 
 I actually have two of them in my home and have never had any problem with
 either one The support from the company is fantastic should you need it. The
 directions that accompany the unit are very blind friendly and the unit can
 be installed without sighted assistance if needed. The unit is easy to
 program or simply use as a standard thermostat. Visit the website and write
 back with additional questions if needed. When you log onto the site, you
 will actually hear what the voice in the thermostat sounds like
 
 Al
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Ron Yearns
 Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 10:11 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] best talking thermostat
 
 Well someone at our Blind amateur radio club asked about the best talking
 thermostat. I saw about eight hundred plus choices on google.
 
 What is the experiences of the group?
 Ron
 
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