Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
It means yer out of gas Just kidding:-D - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:11:28 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge In a message dated 7/13/2010 9:30:57 PM Central Daylight Time, harkema...@aol.com writes: heck the ground to the dash for the gauge. Sounds like your booster has failed, do you have a check valve in the booster? Run the car and pull the valve out it should be under vacuum. Jim Well, Kim was right, my booster was jusk, replaced it and now every thing seems ok, i did not swap the porportioning valve over from the donor car, should i do that? (this is the block on the framewhere all the line run correct?) i assumed the porportioning valve was the round valve that i swapped over that was right under the master cyl that was about 3-4 long. also i checked the fuel gauge connections at the dash and in the back, all seems ok, when i ground the wire in the back the gauge drops down to E so what does this mean? a bad sender? heck the ground to the dash for the gauge. Sounds like your booster has failed, do you have a check valve in the booster? Run the car and pull the valve out it should be under vacuum. Jim Well, Kim was right, my booster was jusk, replaced it and now every thing seems ok, i did not swap the porportioning valve over from the donor car, should i do that? (this is the block on the framewhere all the line run correct?) i assumed the porportioning valve was the round valve that i swapped over that was right under the master cyl that was about 3-4 long. also i checked the fuel gauge connections at the dash and in the back, all seems ok, when i ground the wire in the back the gauge drops down to E so what does this mean? a bad sender?
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
You are correct. In 69 the prop valve was up next to the master. The block on the frame is simply a distribution block. In 71 they did away with the prop valve up by the master and incorporated it into the distribution block down on the frame. - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 6:11 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge In a message dated 7/13/2010 9:30:57 PM Central Daylight Time, harkema...@aol.com writes: heck the ground to the dash for the gauge. Sounds like your booster has failed, do you have a check valve in the booster? Run the car and pull the valve out it should be under vacuum. Jim Well, Kim was right, my booster was jusk, replaced it and now every thing seems ok, i did not swap the porportioning valve over from the donor car, should i do that? (this is the block on the framewhere all the line run correct?) i assumed the porportioning valve was the round valve that i swapped over that was right under the master cyl that was about 3-4 long. also i checked the fuel gauge connections at the dash and in the back, all seems ok, when i ground the wire in the back the gauge drops down to E so what does this mean? a bad sender?
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
In a message dated 7/13/2010 9:30:57 PM Central Daylight Time, harkema...@aol.com writes: heck the ground to the dash for the gauge. Sounds like your booster has failed, do you have a check valve in the booster? Run the car and pull the valve out it should be under vacuum. Jim Well, Kim was right, my booster was jusk, replaced it and now every thing seems ok, i did not swap the porportioning valve over from the donor car, should i do that? (this is the block on the framewhere all the line run correct?) i assumed the porportioning valve was the round valve that i swapped over that was right under the master cyl that was about 3-4 long. also i checked the fuel gauge connections at the dash and in the back, all seems ok, when i ground the wire in the back the gauge drops down to E so what does this mean? a bad sender?
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
The proportioning valve balances the front to rear brakes. Under hard to moderate braking the car will nose dive or the rear brakes will lock if the valve is incorrect. If you feel even braking front to rear, your are fine. Some times the whole gauge cluster needs to be grounded. Simply connect a wire from a screw in the cluster to a solid place on the dash or firewall. Also check the ground on the sending unit at the tank. From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of harkema...@aol.com Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 7:11 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge In a message dated 7/13/2010 9:30:57 PM Central Daylight Time, harkema...@aol.com writes: heck the ground to the dash for the gauge. Sounds like your booster has failed, do you have a check valve in the booster? Run the car and pull the valve out it should be under vacuum. Jim Well, Kim was right, my booster was jusk, replaced it and now every thing seems ok, i did not swap the porportioning valve over from the donor car, should i do that? (this is the block on the framewhere all the line run correct?) i assumed the porportioning valve was the round valve that i swapped over that was right under the master cyl that was about 3-4 long. also i checked the fuel gauge connections at the dash and in the back, all seems ok, when i ground the wire in the back the gauge drops down to E so what does this mean? a bad sender?
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
Harlan, You must have lost a ground while under the dash. Find it and you should solve the gas gauge problem. As for the brakes, where the booster and master cylinder both off the grand prix? On the booster there is a shaft. They can be short or long. They don't mix and match. A long shaft in a shallow master cylinder can be an issue. Also when switching from manual to power, you need to move the pin in the brake pedal to the other hole. If I remember correctly, move to the top hole, but either way, the OTHER hole. Dan From: harkema...@aol.com Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:39:04 -0400 To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge i put power discs in my 68 from a 1969 pontiac grand prix, and now i have to use both feet to stop the car and the stopping distance is great, can anyone help to what might be the problem? seems like they are working because the rotors get warm after a drive. and also the fuel gauge is pegged on full at all times thanks! Harlan
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
Did you change to a disc type master cylinder a disc type proportioning/distribution valve? On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 7:27 AM, Dan Solomon dansolo...@msn.com wrote: Harlan, You must have lost a ground while under the dash. Find it and you should solve the gas gauge problem. As for the brakes, where the booster and master cylinder both off the grand prix? On the booster there is a shaft. They can be short or long. They don't mix and match. A long shaft in a shallow master cylinder can be an issue. Also when switching from manual to power, you need to move the pin in the brake pedal to the other hole. If I remember correctly, move to the top hole, but either way, the OTHER hole. Dan -- From: harkema...@aol.com Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:39:04 -0400 To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge i put power discs in my 68 from a 1969 pontiac grand prix, and now i have to use both feet to stop the car and the stopping distance is great, can anyone help to what might be the problem? seems like they are working because the rotors get warm after a drive. and also the fuel gauge is pegged on full at all times thanks! Harlan -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
ok i checked the inside rod at the pedal, and was going to try it in the other hole, but i could not get it to move into the other hole because it was hitting on things, i put the whole booster/rod ass'y from the gran prix into the car. i used the booster, spindles, porportioning valve from the gran prix, and got the discs, calipers,hoses,brgs, master from NAPA for a 69 gran prix with front discs. i did notice that the original master was somwhat more rounded looking than the one i got from NAPA which is more rectangular and when we measured the outside length of the original and NAPA master the original one out of the gran prix is longer than the one we put in, this was just measuring the outside of the case-- if this matters ?? In a message dated 7/13/2010 1:20:24 PM Central Daylight Time, ric...@gmail.com writes: Did you change to a disc type master cylinder a disc type proportioning/distribution valve? On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 7:27 AM, Dan Solomon dansolo...@msn.com wrote: Harlan, As for the brakes, where the booster and master cylinder both off the grand prix? On the booster there is a shaft. They can be short or long. They don't mix and match. A long shaft in a shallow master cylinder can be an issue. Also when switching from manual to power, you need to move the pin in the brake pedal to the other hole. If I remember correctly, move to the top hole, but either way, the OTHER hole. Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
It sounds to me like the master you got from NAPA is master for a 70-72. The original master you got from the GP sounds like a 69 master. Can't remember which one uses the short push rod and which one the long rod (between the booster and the master) but these two masters use different sized rods. Your problem would indicate you have the short rod in and need the long one. Trooper - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 2:53 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge ok i checked the inside rod at the pedal, and was going to try it in the other hole, but i could not get it to move into the other hole because it was hitting on things, i put the whole booster/rod ass'y from the gran prix into the car. i used the booster, spindles, porportioning valve from the gran prix, and got the discs, calipers,hoses,brgs, master from NAPA for a 69 gran prix with front discs. i did notice that the original master was somwhat more rounded looking than the one i got from NAPA which is more rectangular and when we measured the outside length of the original and NAPA master the original one out of the gran prix is longer than the one we put in, this was just measuring the outside of the case-- if this matters ?? In a message dated 7/13/2010 1:20:24 PM Central Daylight Time, ric...@gmail.com writes: Did you change to a disc type master cylinder a disc type proportioning/distribution valve? On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 7:27 AM, Dan Solomon dansolo...@msn.com wrote: Harlan, As for the brakes, where the booster and master cylinder both off the grand prix? On the booster there is a shaft. They can be short or long. They don't mix and match. A long shaft in a shallow master cylinder can be an issue. Also when switching from manual to power, you need to move the pin in the brake pedal to the other hole. If I remember correctly, move to the top hole, but either way, the OTHER hole. Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
Check the ground to the dash for the gauge. Sounds like your booster has failed, do you have a check valve in the booster? Run the car and pull the valve out it should be under vacuum. Jim From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of harkema...@aol.com Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 10:39 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge i put power discs in my 68 from a 1969 pontiac grand prix, and now i have to use both feet to stop the car and the stopping distance is great, can anyone help to what might be the problem? seems like they are working because the rotors get warm after a drive. and also the fuel gauge is pegged on full at all times thanks! Harlan
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
In a message dated 7/13/2010 6:43:15 PM Central Daylight Time, jimthompso...@gmail.com writes: heck the ground to the dash for the gauge. Sounds like your booster has failed, do you have a check valve in the booster? Run the car and pull the valve out it should be under vacuum. Jim Thanks Jim, i checked the check valve and for vacume at the site, seems ok, removed the booster and actuated it from the back side with my finger over the hole, and it did not hold,,, so you are right, thanks, i will get a replacement on there tomarrow and keep you posted!! Harlan
[Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
i put power discs in my 68 from a 1969 pontiac grand prix, and now i have to use both feet to stop the car and the stopping distance is great, can anyone help to what might be the problem? seems like they are working because the rotors get warm after a drive. and also the fuel gauge is pegged on full at all times thanks! Harlan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes and Suspension
Good advice, as of manufacturers to avoid all the cheap ones!!! Go with a good brand such as Moog or TRW. When I sold parts we carried Moog and Rockhill chassis (later that brand was changed to Falcon). The Moog stuff cost double of what the other brand cost but when you compare them side by side, you can tell you pay for the quality. I cheaped out on my daily driver when it came to putting ball joints on and less than a year later I was right back in there because of a popping ball joint!!! Just my two cents. Devin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I vote to replace the worn parts. Check the rest of the front end and go with what you need. A lot less expensive, and it's not likely that you need EVERYTHING. It may have been 15 years, but how many miles are on it since then, honestly? You obviously keep an eye on it, just check it out when you are under it in the future and maybe once a year give it a good once over. Devin -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad Waller Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 5:47 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes and Suspension I did a lube job this weekend and it looks like the idler arm might be worn. I have the Global West tall spindle conversion and I think everything has been on the car for more than 15 years. I'm thinking that I should just replace everything from the ball joints in (as well as the ball joints). Make sense? Anything I'm overlooking? Manufacturers to go with or avoid? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.7/1286 - Release Date: 2/18/2008 6:49 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.7/1286 - Release Date: 2/18/2008 6:49 PM Josh Campbell 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the right stuff) 71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on) - Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
[Chevelle-list] Brakes and Suspension
I did a lube job this weekend and it looks like the idler arm might be worn. I have the Global West tall spindle conversion and I think everything has been on the car for more than 15 years. I'm thinking that I should just replace everything from the ball joints in (as well as the ball joints). Make sense? Anything I'm overlooking? Manufacturers to go with or avoid? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes and Suspension
I vote to replace the worn parts. Check the rest of the front end and go with what you need. A lot less expensive, and it's not likely that you need EVERYTHING. It may have been 15 years, but how many miles are on it since then, honestly? You obviously keep an eye on it, just check it out when you are under it in the future and maybe once a year give it a good once over. Devin -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad Waller Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 5:47 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes and Suspension I did a lube job this weekend and it looks like the idler arm might be worn. I have the Global West tall spindle conversion and I think everything has been on the car for more than 15 years. I'm thinking that I should just replace everything from the ball joints in (as well as the ball joints). Make sense? Anything I'm overlooking? Manufacturers to go with or avoid? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.7/1286 - Release Date: 2/18/2008 6:49 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.7/1286 - Release Date: 2/18/2008 6:49 PM
[Chevelle-list] Brakes
Just when I thought they were working, I found a puddle of fluid under the rear end. It seems it is coming from the tee there. All new lines and the tee with the block is braided. Any ideas what to do first?? I have tried loosening the connections and re-tightning them. It leaks while just sitting even so it would have to be one of the fittings. Jim 72 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
Pull it back apart, and inspect the metal lines real well. Those should be double flared, and they could be cracked. The threads arent messed up where it might be cross threaded either right? Maybe you could have somebody press the brake pedal while you're under there and you could see where it's leaking/squirting. -Original Message- From: Jim Buckingham [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 1:24 pm Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes Just when I thought they were working, I found a puddle of fluid under the rear end.? It seems it is coming from the tee there.? All new lines and the tee with the block is braided.? Any ideas what to do first?? I have tried loosening the connections and re-tightning them.? It leaks while just sitting even so it would have to be one of the fittings. ? Jim 72 Chevelle Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
Are the new lines stainless - stainless is sometimes harder to get to seat. Ran into this with both brakelines and fuel lines. Krister '66 #'s L34 -- Original message -- From: Jim Buckingham [EMAIL PROTECTED] Just when I thought they were working, I found a puddle of fluid under the rear end. It seems it is coming from the tee there. All new lines and the tee with the block is braided. Any ideas what to do first?? I have tried loosening the connections and re-tightning them. It leaks while just sitting even so it would have to be one of the fittings. Jim 72 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
Have you tried Teflon Tape, or Pipe Dope? Chuck Speake From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Buckingham Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 3:25 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes Just when I thought they were working, I found a puddle of fluid under the rear end. It seems it is coming from the tee there. All new lines and the tee with the block is braided. Any ideas what to do first?? I have tried loosening the connections and re-tightning them. It leaks while just sitting even so it would have to be one of the fittings. Jim 72 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
I have a brand new in the box master power brake rear upgrade kit. It includes, over size drums, cylinders, backing plates and ceramic matrix shoes. Also all hardware, springs, etc. Forced to sell due to divorce. This is around $350-400 new. For 10 bolt rear. New in box if anyone is interested, email [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can check them out at www.masterpowerbrakes.com. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 20:36:00 -0500Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes Have you tried Teflon Tape, or Pipe Dope? Chuck Speake From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim BuckinghamSent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 3:25 PMTo: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes Just when I thought they were working, I found a puddle of fluid under the rear end. It seems it is coming from the tee there. All new lines and the tee with the block is braided. Any ideas what to do first?? I have tried loosening the connections and re-tightning them. It leaks while just sitting even so it would have to be one of the fittings. Jim 72 Chevelle _ Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare! http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews
[Chevelle-list] Brakes
John Nasta was the first to email me...He gets the brakes. I'm sorry I have no more to give!! Dan Mascheck
[Chevelle-list] brakes
hello, i plan on getting a disc brake conversion kit, the one with the aluminum rotors is a bit more money, is there any advantage to these, or should i stick with the standard kit, thanks ronnie Do you Yahoo!? With a free 1 GB, there's more in store with Yahoo! Mail.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
Correcto Clint!(GRIN) -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 3:03 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes Well,if you want to keep the 15 wheels,the problem is solved. 13 rotors require 17 wheels. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] I agree Clint, butI only have so much money to go around for this next project. If I have to go with new wheels and tires, and I plan on changing the suspension to Global West with Coil over, plus add the new brakes. The price keeps getting higher! Of course I could get the wheels now and wait for the brakes and suspension for a later date. First thing I need to find out is how much my incentive check will be!!(GRIN) Heck I might be able to go for the whole enchilada!(GRIN) The only dilemma I have is I do like my 15 on the car. Oh well! Dan Mascheck -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 4:33 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes The larger diameter rotor you have,the more mechanical advantage it has and more heat absorbing/rejection capability,all else being equal. One of the big reasons larger diameter wheels came into being was the ability to utilize larger diameter rotors bigger calipers. Ever noticed the front brake systems on a new Z06 or Viper? Yep, 14 rotors with six piston calipers. Actually,I think you might have misunderstood what Wilwood said about drilled slotted rotors. Holes and slots actually reduce the swept braking area of a rotor and drilled holes are prone to cracking under racetrack conditions. Cast-in holes are less prone to do this as Brembo will tell you. However,I've been running drilled rotors on many street vehicles,for many years,without ever having to replace a rotor due to cracks. The key word here is street,not on a racetrack. The main reason for drilled slotted rotors is aesthetics. Another advantage of 17 and larger diameter wheels is the ability to run ultra high performance tires. There just isn't anything available in 15's and 16's. Great brakes are worthless without great tires. Since you will need the larger diameter wheels to clear the bigger rotors,buy the larger rolling stock first and install some sticky wider tires.(no 1960's widths here) This addition along with your Hydraboost system will make for pretty decent stoppers. Your 72 can handle some large rolling stock. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm planning on upgrading my brakes. I have the old single piston front disk and drums in the back! I run 15 wheels and know it limits me to 11 rotors. I would have to upgrade to 17 or better wheels to get the larger 13 rotors. The question is...how much difference do you gain in stopping power going from 11 to 13? I know you can get 6 piston calipers on a 13 and 4 piston ones on an 11 system. No manufacturer will tell you! Wilwood also said the drilled and cross slotted rotors were only needed for racing purposes, but...I see so many buying them. Is this just overkill? Baer said nothing about the slotted rotors. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for something that gives me so little bang for the buck. If 13 rotors make that much difference, so be it! I am using the Hydraboost system on my 72 Chevelle! Dan Mascheck Wharton, TX
RE: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
I agree! Dan -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 3:06 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes Gassing just isn't the problem everyone makes it out to be,anymore,,especially with today's pad technology. Besides,I doubt you will drive the car hard enough. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint, I forgot to tell you the one rep with Wilwood, told me the slotting of the rotors started in Europe. They used Asbestos brake pads which gassed up pretty bad under severe braking, hence the drilled and slotted rotors to help dissipate the gas. Somewhere I remember reading the same in a magazine! Dan
RE: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
I agree Clint, butI only have so much money to go around for this next project. If I have to go with new wheels and tires, and I plan on changing the suspension to Global West with Coil over, plus add the new brakes. The price keeps getting higher! Of course I could get the wheels now and wait for the brakes and suspension for a later date. First thing I need to find out is how much my incentive check will be!!(GRIN) Heck I might be able to go for the whole enchilada!(GRIN) The only dilemma I have is I do like my 15 on the car. Oh well! Dan Mascheck -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 4:33 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes The larger diameter rotor you have,the more mechanical advantage it has and more heat absorbing/rejection capability,all else being equal. One of the big reasons larger diameter wheels came into being was the ability to utilize larger diameter rotors bigger calipers. Ever noticed the front brake systems on a new Z06 or Viper? Yep, 14 rotors with six piston calipers. Actually,I think you might have misunderstood what Wilwood said about drilled slotted rotors. Holes and slots actually reduce the swept braking area of a rotor and drilled holes are prone to cracking under racetrack conditions. Cast-in holes are less prone to do this as Brembo will tell you. However,I've been running drilled rotors on many street vehicles,for many years,without ever having to replace a rotor due to cracks. The key word here is street,not on a racetrack. The main reason for drilled slotted rotors is aesthetics. Another advantage of 17 and larger diameter wheels is the ability to run ultra high performance tires. There just isn't anything available in 15's and 16's. Great brakes are worthless without great tires. Since you will need the larger diameter wheels to clear the bigger rotors,buy the larger rolling stock first and install some sticky wider tires.(no 1960's widths here) This addition along with your Hydraboost system will make for pretty decent stoppers. Your 72 can handle some large rolling stock. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm planning on upgrading my brakes. I have the old single piston front disk and drums in the back! I run 15 wheels and know it limits me to 11 rotors. I would have to upgrade to 17 or better wheels to get the larger 13 rotors. The question is...how much difference do you gain in stopping power going from 11 to 13? I know you can get 6 piston calipers on a 13 and 4 piston ones on an 11 system. No manufacturer will tell you! Wilwood also said the drilled and cross slotted rotors were only needed for racing purposes, but...I see so many buying them. Is this just overkill? Baer said nothing about the slotted rotors. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for something that gives me so little bang for the buck. If 13 rotors make that much difference, so be it! I am using the Hydraboost system on my 72 Chevelle! Dan Mascheck Wharton, TX
RE: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
Clint, I forgot to tell you the one rep with Wilwood, told me the slotting of the rotors started in Europe. They used Asbestos brake pads which gassed up pretty bad under severe braking, hence the drilled and slotted rotors to help dissipate the gas. Somewhere I remember reading the same in a magazine! Dan -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 4:33 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes The larger diameter rotor you have,the more mechanical advantage it has and more heat absorbing/rejection capability,all else being equal. One of the big reasons larger diameter wheels came into being was the ability to utilize larger diameter rotors bigger calipers. Ever noticed the front brake systems on a new Z06 or Viper? Yep, 14 rotors with six piston calipers. Actually,I think you might have misunderstood what Wilwood said about drilled slotted rotors. Holes and slots actually reduce the swept braking area of a rotor and drilled holes are prone to cracking under racetrack conditions. Cast-in holes are less prone to do this as Brembo will tell you. However,I've been running drilled rotors on many street vehicles,for many years,without ever having to replace a rotor due to cracks. The key word here is street,not on a racetrack. The main reason for drilled slotted rotors is aesthetics. Another advantage of 17 and larger diameter wheels is the ability to run ultra high performance tires. There just isn't anything available in 15's and 16's. Great brakes are worthless without great tires. Since you will need the larger diameter wheels to clear the bigger rotors,buy the larger rolling stock first and install some sticky wider tires.(no 1960's widths here) This addition along with your Hydraboost system will make for pretty decent stoppers. Your 72 can handle some large rolling stock. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm planning on upgrading my brakes. I have the old single piston front disk and drums in the back! I run 15 wheels and know it limits me to 11 rotors. I would have to upgrade to 17 or better wheels to get the larger 13 rotors. The question is...how much difference do you gain in stopping power going from 11 to 13? I know you can get 6 piston calipers on a 13 and 4 piston ones on an 11 system. No manufacturer will tell you! Wilwood also said the drilled and cross slotted rotors were only needed for racing purposes, but...I see so many buying them. Is this just overkill? Baer said nothing about the slotted rotors. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for something that gives me so little bang for the buck. If 13 rotors make that much difference, so be it! I am using the Hydraboost system on my 72 Chevelle! Dan Mascheck Wharton, TX
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
Well,if you want to keep the 15 wheels,the problem is solved. 13 rotors require 17 wheels. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] I agree Clint, butI only have so much money to go around for this next project. If I have to go with new wheels and tires, and I plan on changing the suspension to Global West with Coil over, plus add the new brakes. The price keeps getting higher! Of course I could get the wheels now and wait for the brakes and suspension for a later date. First thing I need to find out is how much my incentive check will be!!(GRIN) Heck I might be able to go for the whole enchilada!(GRIN) The only dilemma I have is I do like my 15 on the car. Oh well! Dan Mascheck -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 4:33 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes The larger diameter rotor you have,the more mechanical advantage it has and more heat absorbing/rejection capability,all else being equal. One of the big reasons larger diameter wheels came into being was the ability to utilize larger diameter rotors bigger calipers. Ever noticed the front brake systems on a new Z06 or Viper? Yep, 14 rotors with six piston calipers. Actually,I think you might have misunderstood what Wilwood said about drilled slotted rotors. Holes and slots actually reduce the swept braking area of a rotor and drilled holes are prone to cracking under racetrack conditions. Cast-in holes are less prone to do this as Brembo will tell you. However,I've been running drilled rotors on many street vehicles,for many years,without ever having to replace a rotor due to cracks. The key word here is street,not on a racetrack. The main reason for drilled slotted rotors is aesthetics. Another advantage of 17 and larger diameter wheels is the ability to run ultra high performance tires. There just isn't anything available in 15's and 16's. Great brakes are worthless without great tires. Since you will need the larger diameter wheels to clear the bigger rotors,buy the larger rolling stock first and install some sticky wider tires.(no 1960's widths here) This addition along with your Hydraboost system will make for pretty decent stoppers. Your 72 can handle some large rolling stock. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm planning on upgrading my brakes. I have the old single piston front disk and drums in the back! I run 15 wheels and know it limits me to 11 rotors. I would have to upgrade to 17 or better wheels to get the larger 13 rotors. The question is...how much difference do you gain in stopping power going from 11 to 13? I know you can get 6 piston calipers on a 13 and 4 piston ones on an 11 system. No manufacturer will tell you! Wilwood also said the drilled and cross slotted rotors were only needed for racing purposes, but...I see so many buying them. Is this just overkill? Baer said nothing about the slotted rotors. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for something that gives me so little bang for the buck. If 13 rotors make that much difference, so be it! I am using the Hydraboost system on my 72 Chevelle! Dan Mascheck Wharton, TX
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
Gassing just isn't the problem everyone makes it out to be,anymore,,especially with today's pad technology. Besides,I doubt you will drive the car hard enough. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint, I forgot to tell you the one rep with Wilwood, told me the slotting of the rotors started in Europe. They used Asbestos brake pads which gassed up pretty bad under severe braking, hence the drilled and slotted rotors to help dissipate the gas. Somewhere I remember reading the same in a magazine! Dan
[Chevelle-list] Brakes
I'm planning on upgrading my brakes. I have the old single piston front disk and drums in the back! I run 15 wheels and know it limits me to 11 rotors. I would have to upgrade to 17 or better wheels to get the larger 13 rotors. The question is...how much difference do you gain in stopping power going from 11 to 13? I know you can get 6 piston calipers on a 13 and 4 piston ones on an 11 system. No manufacturer will tell you! Wilwood also said the drilled and cross slotted rotors were only needed for racing purposes, but...I see so many buying them. Is this just overkill? Baer said nothing about the slotted rotors. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for something that gives me so little bang for the buck. If 13 rotors make that much difference, so be it! I am using the Hydraboost system on my 72 Chevelle! Dan Mascheck Wharton, TX
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes
The larger diameter rotor you have,the more mechanical advantage it has and more heat absorbing/rejection capability,all else being equal. One of the big reasons larger diameter wheels came into being was the ability to utilize larger diameter rotors bigger calipers. Ever noticed the front brake systems on a new Z06 or Viper? Yep, 14 rotors with six piston calipers. Actually,I think you might have misunderstood what Wilwood said about drilled slotted rotors. Holes and slots actually reduce the swept braking area of a rotor and drilled holes are prone to cracking under racetrack conditions. Cast-in holes are less prone to do this as Brembo will tell you. However,I've been running drilled rotors on many street vehicles,for many years,without ever having to replace a rotor due to cracks. The key word here is street,not on a racetrack. The main reason for drilled slotted rotors is aesthetics. Another advantage of 17 and larger diameter wheels is the ability to run ultra high performance tires. There just isn't anything available in 15's and 16's. Great brakes are worthless without great tires. Since you will need the larger diameter wheels to clear the bigger rotors,buy the larger rolling stock first and install some sticky wider tires.(no 1960's widths here) This addition along with your Hydraboost system will make for pretty decent stoppers. Your 72 can handle some large rolling stock. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm planning on upgrading my brakes. I have the old single piston front disk and drums in the back! I run 15 wheels and know it limits me to 11 rotors. I would have to upgrade to 17 or better wheels to get the larger 13 rotors. The question is...how much difference do you gain in stopping power going from 11 to 13? I know you can get 6 piston calipers on a 13 and 4 piston ones on an 11 system. No manufacturer will tell you! Wilwood also said the drilled and cross slotted rotors were only needed for racing purposes, but...I see so many buying them. Is this just overkill? Baer said nothing about the slotted rotors. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for something that gives me so little bang for the buck. If 13 rotors make that much difference, so be it! I am using the Hydraboost system on my 72 Chevelle! Dan Mascheck Wharton, TX
[Chevelle-list] Brakes vacuum?
Is there a better pointof vacuum for the brakes than the top of the intake manifold? Feels as if I dont get as much support from the vacuum as I expect!? Best regards __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
[Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle
Can't figure this out. Have disks on the front (early camaro) and stock drums on the rear. Installed a new 8" brake booster and mastercylinder, and aTilton prop, valve on the rear brakes. After bleeding the brakesI still can't get sufficient pressure to the fronts even with the rears restricted 100% (valve all the way in)to getacceptable front braking. The front calipers are single piston. It all worked before I installed the booster. It has good vacuum. Any suggestions? Copy Dave Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle =2
Real dumb question. I have the rear reservoir on the master cylinder feeding the front brakes. Is this wrong? Larry - Original Message - From: Larry Williams To: Chevelle-list Cc: David Hillberry Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 4:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle Can't figure this out. Have disks on the front (early camaro) and stock drums on the rear. Installed a new 8" brake booster and mastercylinder, and aTilton prop, valve on the rear brakes. After bleeding the brakesI still can't get sufficient pressure to the fronts even with the rears restricted 100% (valve all the way in)to getacceptable front braking. The front calipers are single piston. It all worked before I installed the booster. It has good vacuum. Any suggestions? Copy Dave Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle =2
The bigger of the 2 reservoir is the front brakes usually the back. But you probably have 2 of the same size I am guessing. - Original Message - From: Larry Williams To: Chevelle-list Cc: David Hillberry Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 6:57 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle =2 Real dumb question. I have the rear reservoir on the master cylinder feeding the front brakes. Is this wrong? Larry - Original Message - From: Larry Williams To: Chevelle-list Cc: David Hillberry Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 4:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle Can't figure this out. Have disks on the front (early camaro) and stock drums on the rear. Installed a new 8" brake booster and mastercylinder, and aTilton prop, valve on the rear brakes. After bleeding the brakesI still can't get sufficient pressure to the fronts even with the rears restricted 100% (valve all the way in)to getacceptable front braking. The front calipers are single piston. It all worked before I installed the booster. It has good vacuum. Any suggestions? Copy Dave Larry Williams No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.7.2 - Release Date: 3/11/2005 No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.7.2 - Release Date: 3/11/2005
Fw: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle
I've heard a lot of complaints about those little power boosters. The fact your brakes worked fine before you installed the booster tends to incriminate the latter. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Larry Williams Can't figure this out. Have disks on the front (early camaro) and stock drums on the rear. Installed a new 8" brake booster and mastercylinder, and aTilton prop, valve on the rear brakes. After bleeding the brakesI still can't get sufficient pressure to the fronts even with the rears restricted 100% (valve all the way in)to getacceptable front braking. The front calipers are single piston. It all worked before I installed the booster. It has good vacuum. Any suggestions? Copy Dave Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle
Larry willimas wrote "It all worked before I installed the booster" did you add a new master cylinder ? If you did make sure it's a disk./drum master.. you can also remove the ristrictor in the disk master cyl. chamber. if it is in fact a drum/ drum configured master cylinder.. Wayne - Original Message - From: Larry Williams To: Chevelle-list Cc: David Hillberry Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 7:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle Can't figure this out. Have disks on the front (early camaro) and stock drums on the rear. Installed a new 8" brake booster and mastercylinder, and aTilton prop, valve on the rear brakes. After bleeding the brakesI still can't get sufficient pressure to the fronts even with the rears restricted 100% (valve all the way in)to getacceptable front braking. The front calipers are single piston. It all worked before I installed the booster. It has good vacuum. Any suggestions? Copy Dave Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle
Where is this restrictor in the drum/drum? - Original Message - From: Wayne To: Larry Williams ; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 5:48 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle Larry willimas wrote "It all worked before I installed the booster" did you add a new master cylinder ? If you did make sure it's a disk./drum master.. you can also remove the ristrictor in the disk master cyl. chamber. if it is in fact a drum/ drum configured master cylinder.. Wayne - Original Message - From: Larry Williams To: Chevelle-list Cc: David Hillberry Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 7:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle Can't figure this out. Have disks on the front (early camaro) and stock drums on the rear. Installed a new 8" brake booster and mastercylinder, and aTilton prop, valve on the rear brakes. After bleeding the brakesI still can't get sufficient pressure to the fronts even with the rears restricted 100% (valve all the way in)to getacceptable front braking. The front calipers are single piston. It all worked before I installed the booster. It has good vacuum. Any suggestions? Copy Dave Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle =2
hey larry the front of the master cylinder goes to front brakes, and the rear to the rear, booster size is not your culprit, check your lines, if not new, one might be pinch, or plug up
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle
Ok, Dumb question, but by any chance have you taken off the front calipers? I accidentally mixed mine up when I took them off to paint, and put them back on the wrong sides. This put the bleeder at a higher point than should be. Let's just say I couldn't get them to bleed, and it took me longer than I want to admit to figure it out. Later Charles www.65ss.com - Original Message - From: Larry Williams To: Chevelle-list Cc: David Hillberry Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 6:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brakes - 65 Chevelle Can't figure this out. Have disks on the front (early camaro) and stock drums on the rear. Installed a new 8" brake booster and mastercylinder, and aTilton prop, valve on the rear brakes. After bleeding the brakesI still can't get sufficient pressure to the fronts even with the rears restricted 100% (valve all the way in)to getacceptable front braking. The front calipers are single piston. It all worked before I installed the booster. It has good vacuum. Any suggestions? Copy Dave Larry Williams
[Chevelle-list] brakes and spindles
hey all I was woundering will the dick brakes from a 68- I think 70ish Riviera bolt up to a 64 skylark.I have a chance to get this Riv With a 455/400 for a hundred bucks. he says it does not run but I think the block and tranny is worth it So I guess I will be going BIG inch buick motor in my skylark. I also get to see about A 64 skylark this monday this old lady is giving away. SO parts here I come. Does anyone no anything about Corvair she says she has alot of parts and a convertible she might give away? what should I look for in this type of cars randy g Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
[Chevelle-list] brakes....
Hi If anybody is interested on the other side of US, I give the same offer but out of a Elky 1971. Free to pick up in SoCal Hans I had to clean out the garage over the weekend. As a result, the front drum brake parts that were removed from my 1970 Chevelle during the disc conversion are now outside. If anyone wants them, and is willing to pick them up in York PA, they can have them for free. What's in the box is the components from the spindle on out for both wheels, master cylinder, distribution block hans
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes from '85 Caprice (was: Fw: Why leave thelist?)
ya ho thanks Dave for the info much appreaciated Ken D. 72 HeavyChevy
- Original Message -
From: Dave Studly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 3:38 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Brakes from '85 Caprice (was: Fw: Why leave
thelist?)
Yes, it will fit, but the Caprice is a B-body and the spindle is taller.
It
will physically bolt in, but you'll probably have a tough time getting the
alignment right. The aftermarket upper A-arms from Global West, Hotchkis
and others correct this problem. I think you'll need different tie-rod
ends
for the different spindle. In my spreadsheet of part numbers that I kept
when I did my conversion, I show a Moog 681N inner tie-rod and a Moog
2033RL
outer tie-rod.
You might want to pay close attention to the bolt pattern on that Caprice.
It might be the larger (5x5 vs 5 x 4 3/4) bolt pattern which means you'll
need adapters for different rotors. If the Caprice has 12 rotors, NAPA #
85994 worked for me. ('90 Camaro with 1LE brake option -- gives the proper
5
x 4 3/4 bolt pattern).
The spindles are the only hard part to get, everything else can be bought
at
the parts store. I got my spindles at the boneyard for $50 and used all
new
calipers, rotors, pads, everything. If you're comfortable with the
condition of the rest of the parts on the Caprice, you have a good deal
there.
Upgrading from drums to the 12 Caprice brakes on my '70 was the most
worthwhile upgrade I've done in the 14 years I've had my car. Really.
-Dave
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of suprsprt72
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:58 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
New subject old tpoic lol, anyone know if the front disc brake set up
from
a 1985 Caprice 2dr.coupe will fit or direct bolt up to my 72 HeavyChevy
Chevelle 2dr. coupe? any help on this is appreaciated i can get it for
75.00 if i want it includes everything Thanks Ken D.
- Original Message -
From: Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3 CS/SCBS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
And that's a problem, why?
SARGE
-Original Message-
From: Chevelle Gearheads [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:24 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
But we'd all be alcoholics in no time then ,-)
-Pelle
- Original Message -
From: Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3 CS/SCBS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 8:15 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
I'm with ya on this one buddy! I love reading the going's on in each
of your garages. I wish I could hang out and drink a beer with each
and everyone of you! I also wish some of ya'll lived closer to
Anchorage, so
I
could have ya's over to my garage, to help me work on my Chevelle!
;-)
SARGE
-Original Message-
From: Chevelle Gearheads [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:11 AM
To: Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
I salute you boys girls!
I will never leave this list!
It's the perfect garage buddy mix!
Sometimes we talk about ex gf's or bf's sometimes it's the latest
cooler, shocks or whatever!
I just love being a part of this mix!
Best regards
Pelle Andersson
--
http://hem.bredband.net/gearheads/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes from '85 Caprice (was: Fw: Why leave thelist?)
Just an FYI on the tall spindle conversion, you need to either have the spindle reamed out for the chevelle lower ball joint to fit, or have the caprice lower ball joint machined to fit in the chevelle lower control arm. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] Brakes from '85 Caprice (was: Fw: Why leavethelist?)
Great point Tom, I completely forgot about that. I bought some pre-machined ball joints from Hotchkis. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 5:14 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Brakes from '85 Caprice (was: Fw: Why leavethelist?) Just an FYI on the tall spindle conversion, you need to either have the spindle reamed out for the chevelle lower ball joint to fit, or have the caprice lower ball joint machined to fit in the chevelle lower control arm. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] Brakes from '85 Caprice (was: Fw: Why leave the list?)
Yes, it will fit, but the Caprice is a B-body and the spindle is taller. It
will physically bolt in, but you'll probably have a tough time getting the
alignment right. The aftermarket upper A-arms from Global West, Hotchkis
and others correct this problem. I think you'll need different tie-rod ends
for the different spindle. In my spreadsheet of part numbers that I kept
when I did my conversion, I show a Moog 681N inner tie-rod and a Moog 2033RL
outer tie-rod.
You might want to pay close attention to the bolt pattern on that Caprice.
It might be the larger (5x5 vs 5 x 4 3/4) bolt pattern which means you'll
need adapters for different rotors. If the Caprice has 12 rotors, NAPA #
85994 worked for me. ('90 Camaro with 1LE brake option -- gives the proper 5
x 4 3/4 bolt pattern).
The spindles are the only hard part to get, everything else can be bought at
the parts store. I got my spindles at the boneyard for $50 and used all new
calipers, rotors, pads, everything. If you're comfortable with the
condition of the rest of the parts on the Caprice, you have a good deal
there.
Upgrading from drums to the 12 Caprice brakes on my '70 was the most
worthwhile upgrade I've done in the 14 years I've had my car. Really.
-Dave
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of suprsprt72
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:58 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
New subject old tpoic lol, anyone know if the front disc brake set up from
a 1985 Caprice 2dr.coupe will fit or direct bolt up to my 72 HeavyChevy
Chevelle 2dr. coupe? any help on this is appreaciated i can get it for
75.00 if i want it includes everything Thanks Ken D.
- Original Message -
From: Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3 CS/SCBS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
And that's a problem, why?
SARGE
-Original Message-
From: Chevelle Gearheads [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:24 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
But we'd all be alcoholics in no time then ,-)
-Pelle
- Original Message -
From: Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3 CS/SCBS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 8:15 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
I'm with ya on this one buddy! I love reading the going's on in each
of your garages. I wish I could hang out and drink a beer with each
and everyone of you! I also wish some of ya'll lived closer to
Anchorage, so
I
could have ya's over to my garage, to help me work on my Chevelle!
;-)
SARGE
-Original Message-
From: Chevelle Gearheads [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:11 AM
To: Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Why leave the list?
I salute you boys girls!
I will never leave this list!
It's the perfect garage buddy mix!
Sometimes we talk about ex gf's or bf's sometimes it's the latest
cooler, shocks or whatever!
I just love being a part of this mix!
Best regards
Pelle Andersson
--
http://hem.bredband.net/gearheads/
[Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up Part 2
Thanks for the info guys. Took the wheel and hub off this morning and it was dry inside. What I think was when I replaced the seallast month I didn't get the brakes cleaned off good enough. The reason I'm using my brakes more is I did quite a few changes to my engine and it doesn't want to idle below 1000 RPM. Big cam, big heads and single plane intake. Was told by a friend that is about the best I can hope for with that set up. Now I need a higher stall converter. Not much different from the old set up until about 3000 RPM and then it really comes alive. Next to try the nitrous. Hope this old mans heart will take it. LOL Vernon Central Missouri 64 elky -"Are you still wasting your time with spam?...There is a solution!" Protected by GIANT Company's Spam InspectorThe most powerful anti-spam software available.http://www.giantcompany.com
RE: [Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up
Usually if the seal is bad, the bearing is bad too. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Galen and Melissa Love Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 11:58 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up I'll second that... I just fixed the same problem on my '96 Camaro. Symptoms were exactly the same. Galen - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 7:46 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up Rear axle seal. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of vmckague Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 7:33 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up I have a question that I hope someone can help me with. I took my 64 elky out for a drive a while ago and after running it hard I stopped at a friends shop about a quarter mile from my home. When I got out I could smell what I thought was rear end grease burning. Looking under the back of the car I saw smoke coming out of the right rear brake hub. Alot of smoke. I thought it had a leaking wheel cyl.New bearings and wheel seals about a month ago.I let it cool off for about 20 min and when I started home the back brakes werejust about locked up. I went ahead andstarted home anyway. It took about all the power the old girl had just to get it moving but when I started into my driveway I had to tap the brakes and then they released. Now they are fine. Any ideas? New wheel cyl, and no parking brake. This is a posirear end is out of a 70 pontiac. Vernon Central Missouri 64 El Camino - Are you still wasting your time with spam?... There is a solution! Protected by GIANT Company's Spam Inspector The most powerful anti-spam software available. http://www.giantcompany.com
[Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up
I have a question that I hope someone can help me with. I took my 64 elky out for a drive a while ago and after running it hard I stopped at a friends shop about a quarter mile from my home. When I got out I could smell what I thought was rear end grease burning. Looking under the back of the car I saw smoke coming out of the right rear brake hub. Alot of smoke. I thought it had a leaking wheel cyl.New bearings and wheel seals about a month ago.I let it cool off for about 20 min and when I started home the back brakes werejust about locked up. I went ahead andstarted home anyway. It took about all the power the old girl had just to get it moving but when I started into my driveway I had to tap the brakes and then they released. Now they are fine. Any ideas? New wheel cyl, and no parking brake. This is a posirear end is out of a 70 pontiac. Vernon Central Missouri 64 El Camino -"Are you still wasting your time with spam?...There is a solution!" Protected by GIANT Company's Spam InspectorThe most powerful anti-spam software available.http://www.giantcompany.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up
I'll second that... I just fixed the same problem on my '96 Camaro. Symptoms were exactly the same. Galen - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 7:46 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up Rear axle seal. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of vmckagueSent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 7:33 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Brakes locking up I have a question that I hope someone can help me with. I took my 64 elky out for a drive a while ago and after running it hard I stopped at a friends shop about a quarter mile from my home. When I got out I could smell what I thought was rear end grease burning. Looking under the back of the car I saw smoke coming out of the right rear brake hub. Alot of smoke. I thought it had a leaking wheel cyl.New bearings and wheel seals about a month ago.I let it cool off for about 20 min and when I started home the back brakes werejust about locked up. I went ahead andstarted home anyway. It took about all the power the old girl had just to get it moving but when I started into my driveway I had to tap the brakes and then they released. Now they are fine. Any ideas? New wheel cyl, and no parking brake. This is a posirear end is out of a 70 pontiac. Vernon Central Missouri 64 El Camino -"Are you still wasting your time with spam?...There is a solution!" Protected by GIANT Company's Spam InspectorThe most powerful anti-spam software available.http://www.giantcompany.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] brakes?
Almost anytime the brake goes to the floor, it means that the master cylinder has gone out. You should feel and/or see brake fluid around the brake rod in the inside or out. If you do not see or feel any brake fluid around the rod,then you can pump the brakes going down the road and if they get better, then you let the fluid get too low and you just have air in the system. If you have not done a brake job on the car in a long time and you put a new master cylinder on it now, you will most likely have more trouble later. It is best when changing the master cylinder (If it has been awhile since you did a complete job including rebuilding the wheel cylinders) that you also rebuild the wheel cylinders. The new master cylinder will put extra pressure on the old tired wheel cylinders and cause them to blow out. So if fluid is around the brake rod, then it is a master cylinder. If when driving, you can pump up the brakes and they work or work better, then you got air in the system. So check your wheel cylinders like Rick S. said. Good luck. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Thomas Newell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: , June 15, 2002 1:04 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] brakes? earlier tonight my brakes worked fine on my 69, when i went to leave my brothers house i got in my car and the brake pedal almost went to the floor and the brake light lite up on my dash. i drove home about ten miles with hardly no brakes but they did work some. when i got home i looked and my fluid was real low on one side, i have manual brakes and i was wondering what i should be looking for as far as a problem? i'm far from a mechanic. if i put more brake fluid in, is it ok to drive to the shop or should i get it towed? thank's Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] brakes?
sounds like an air pocket in the brake lines. fill up the resavoir, put the cap back on and bleed the wheel cylinders, all 4 of them. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-List] Brakes
Correct...any A-body up to and including 72 will bolt on. Just be sure to get all the pieces. Dale Subject: [Chevelle-List] Breakes I want to pull all the parts i need of a nother car to put on my 68 chevelle but do not no make or years i can use. Some one once told me i chould go up to 1972 but not after that. Front breakes. Tim Deckard - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] brakes
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Seeing alot of you have done junk yard swaps for disk brake conversions. I was looking at some of the kits on the market (MPB), most are in the $700-$800 range. What are the pros/cons? Price I'm sure is one, and not having to hunt for the donor would be another, but is there any performance difference? Anyone do a '66 conversion that has some insights? Will the '68-72 parts work? thanks Ron http://home.attbi.com/~cutter169/chevelle_page.htm - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] brakes
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List on 3/3/02 7:45 AM, Cutter at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hi i done a swap on a 66 using a new booster master and proportioning valve .then i hit the junkyard for the rest iused 71 parts just had to use new lines .majaor improvement over drums.im very happy with the setup but at the end of the day idont think iended up saving more than $200 on the kit price if idid it over id probably opt for allnew parts just for looks and less aggravation. jason pollock 66 el camino Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Seeing alot of you have done junk yard swaps for disk brake conversions. I was looking at some of the kits on the market (MPB), most are in the $700-$800 range. What are the pros/cons? Price I'm sure is one, and not having to hunt for the donor would be another, but is there any performance difference? Anyone do a '66 conversion that has some insights? Will the '68-72 parts work? thanks Ron http://home.attbi.com/~cutter169/chevelle_page.htm - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] brakes
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List On Sun, 3 Mar 2002 08:45:04 -0700 Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Seeing alot of you have done junk yard swaps for disk brake conversions. I was looking at some of the kits on the market (MPB), most are in the $700-$800 range. What are the pros/cons? Price I'm sure is one, and not having to hunt for the donor would be another, but is there any performance difference? I doubt that there is much difference.Both Stainless Steel Brakes Master Power Brakes seem to use stock components. rick http://home.attbi.com/~cutter169/chevelle_page.htm - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Brakes/ Spindles
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I forgot who it was but someone said that they had the 13 Baer Track system on their car. My question is for that person. Did you leave the stock spindles on your car or replace them? Thanks Michael _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
