Re: [Chevelle-list] Body is off the frame!

[Thomas Ringlein]

Sorry the late reply, but I got the car done and hit the road that night
(Wednesday) for the Thanksgiving holiday.

As for the plans for the car for 08, that depends on what the Air Force does
with me the next few years.  The plan should look something like follows:

 

Nov 07 - start work on the frame

Mar 08 - finish work on frame

Apr 08 - Get car in and on the rotisserie - get firewall smoothed, bottom of
car repaired, painted.

Jun 08 - Get car back - finish up the LS1 install (figure out induction
setup, stroker or not?, etc.)

Nov 08 - Get car back in for full paint (body work is already done)

Dec 08 - I will be hot for another trip to the sand.  I anticipate 12 months
in hell this time around.

Dec 09 - Return (with bills paid) and reassess from there - I may be ready
for another move (perhaps St. Louis area?)

 

Realistically, the car will be 100% done in about 4-5 years - deployment
cycle notwithstanding.  If the Air Force leaves me here, then it can be done
in about 3-4 years.  I get started on the frame tomorrow.  If the rest of
the job pleasantly surprises me like pulling the body did, I could be done
in 2 years (If I had a pile of money).

 

T.J. Ringlein

Clovis, CA

United States Air Force (Active)

72 Chevelle - in pieces

 

  _  

From: Rick Schaefer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 7:07 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body is off the frame!

 

   Isn't it amazing how sometimes the worry is far worse than the event.
On the other hand its good to cover your bases.  And congrats on your
progress.  On the road in 08?

On 11/21/07, Thomas Ringlein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 

Well - I learned how easy it was to take a body off the frame today.  Here I
had my cell phone queued to 911 and in my pocket all day, expecting to have
to make the call.  I also learned that my frame is rust free - aside from
some surface rust.  Looks like the good California weather took care of her
the past 40 years.

The points that I lifted the body caused no flex whatsoever - even the door
gaps stayed perfect the whole time.  I will see tomorrow if the windshield
is cracked - it needs replacing anyway.

Now I have some work to do.  I have to get the frame blasted, boxed, welds
reinforced (they look like crap), and get it galvanized.  Then the short
process of bolting up all the Global West suspension pieces.  Wish me luck.

T.J. Ringlein

Clovis, Ca

1972 Chevelle - in pieces




-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body is off the frame!

[Josh Campbell]

All I got to say is it must be nice to work on Cali cars!!! No serious rust, no 
real metalwork to pursue unless its accident damage, replace all the soft stuff 
and go!!! (I'm sure it makes a difference with cars on the coast though) One of 
these days I'll import one over to my side of the rust belt! Its great to hear 
that everything went fine but number 1 is it was all SAFE!!! Congrats hope the 
rest goes just as smoothly!!



Josh Campbell
  66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
  66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
  87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the right 
stuff)
  71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on)

   
-
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Re: [Chevelle-list] Body is off the frame!

[DeBlk3Rulz]

And I was all in a panic about sharpening the family knife set for the bird  
today...LOL!
 
GR8 work TJ!
 
And to all...Happy Thanksgiving!
 
Remember & Pray for our Armed Forces and their Families on  this day of 
Thank's
 
 
 
Johnnie & Lisa Lawson
Team Chevelle # 0145
' 72 Chevelle  SS
"Cheaptrick"



**Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop000301)

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body is off the frame!

[Rick Schaefer]

   Isn't it amazing how sometimes the worry is far worse than the event.
On the other hand its good to cover your bases.  And congrats on your
progress.  On the road in 08?

On 11/21/07, Thomas Ringlein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>  Well – I learned how easy it was to take a body off the frame today.
> Here I had my cell phone queued to 911 and in my pocket all day, expecting
> to have to make the call.  I also learned that my frame is rust free –aside 
> from
> some surface rust.  Looks like the good California weather took care of her
> the past 40 years.
>
> The points that I lifted the body caused no flex whatsoever – even the
> door gaps stayed perfect the whole time.  I will see tomorrow if the
> windshield is cracked – it needs replacing anyway.
>
> Now I have some work to do.  I have to get the frame blasted, boxed, welds
> reinforced (they look like crap), and get it galvanized.  Then the short
> process of bolting up all the Global West suspension pieces.  Wish me
> luck.
>
> T.J. Ringlein
>
> Clovis, Ca
>
> 1972 Chevelle – in pieces
>



-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

[Tom Rightler]

Body off on WednesdayI've lifted several cars in that locationa and have yet to 
encounter an issue with it.

Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim H. Thompson 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 7:50 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday


  That is a weak area on the fire wall. The factory used large J hooks in the 
opening above the front body mounts.

   

   

One suggestion though, why not pick up the body on the top of the firewall 
where the top fender bolts go

   



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  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
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7:05 PM

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

[Josh Campbell]

I left the doors and glass in my 66, I left the doors on because it helps 
strengthen the body from flexing and the glass because I was too lazy to pull 
it out, I got the back glass out ok (of course the one I didn't care about, it 
was pitted real bad because someone years back used a blowtorch to cut out 
speaker holes) and I broke the windshield when I was pulling it out (cutter 
slipped). If you go to replace any major panels such as quarters it needs to be 
back on the frame but rockers and pieces of the floors are ok as long as you 
don't cut the entire floor out. I hope this helps.



Josh Campbell
  66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
  66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
  87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the right 
stuff)
  71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on)

   
-
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Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

[Tony]

Body off on WednesdayI've lifted two 69's with the glass in. Even rotated one 
on my rotisserie several times and had it on the rotisserie for 8 months with 
no glass clacking problems.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim H. Thompson 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 6:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday


  Having done this myself. The body is heavy towards the rear. Even with the 
gas tank removed.

   

  I suggest removing the front wind shield and rear window. I didn't and the 
next morning the front glass had cracked over night. Keep the doors on. 

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein
  Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 6:15 PM
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

   

  Folks-

  I have heard both sides of this question - so I send it to the collective for 
some opinions.

  I have my car stripped in order to pull the body off the frame this 
Wednesday.  There is zero interior (aside from the dash), no wiring, firewall 
is stripped, A/C is removed, basically I have a steel shell.  I do, however, 
still have the glass in the car, and the doors mounted.  I do not plan to 
remove the glass - so do I have to remove the doors before I yank the body off 
the frame?  If it makes sense, I will do it.  If it does not matter - they are 
staying on the car.  

  The method used will be an engine hoist (cherry picker) with chains connected 
to the access holes for front body mounts (bottom right and left of firewall), 
and also lifted from the two holes in the trunk that feed the wiring down 
behind the bumper.  Again, chains fed through the wiring holes, through a 2x4 
with 1 ¼" hole, bolted through (like the guy on 72chevelle.com).  

  Thoughts?

  Tom Ringlein

  Clovis, Ca.

  1972 Chevelle 2-door coupe

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

[Jim H. Thompson]

That is a weak area on the fire wall. The factory used large J hooks in the
opening above the front body mounts.

 

 

  One suggestion though, why not pick up the body on the top of the firewall
where the top fender bolts go

 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

[Jim H. Thompson]

Having done this myself. The body is heavy towards the rear. Even with the
gas tank removed.

 

I suggest removing the front wind shield and rear window. I didn’t and the
next morning the front glass had cracked over night. Keep the doors on. 

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 6:15 PM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

 

Folks-

I have heard both sides of this question – so I send it to the collective
for some opinions.

I have my car stripped in order to pull the body off the frame this
Wednesday.  There is zero interior (aside from the dash), no wiring,
firewall is stripped, A/C is removed, basically I have a steel shell.  I do,
however, still have the glass in the car, and the doors mounted.  I do not
plan to remove the glass – so do I have to remove the doors before I yank
the body off the frame?  If it makes sense, I will do it.  If it does not
matter – they are staying on the car.  

The method used will be an engine hoist (cherry picker) with chains
connected to the access holes for front body mounts (bottom right and left
of firewall), and also lifted from the two holes in the trunk that feed the
wiring down behind the bumper.  Again, chains fed through the wiring holes,
through a 2x4 with 1 ¼” hole, bolted through (like the guy on
72chevelle.com).  

Thoughts?

Tom Ringlein

Clovis, Ca.

1972 Chevelle 2-door coupe

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

[Tom Rightler]

Body off on WednesdayIf they doors do not NEED to come off, then leave them on, 
makes fitting and adjusting easier once it is back on the frame.  One 
suggestion though, whynot pick up the body on the top of the firewall where the 
top fender bolts go?  It would be a tad easier to just put a bolt in the chain 
there instead of screwing around fishing it through the body mount hole and 
messing around with a bolt AND a nut.  
Another FYI, if you are doing sheetmetal work, might I suggest you do it or 
have it done before pulling the body off the frame.  I learned the hard way why 
not to do it while it's off the frame.

Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ Winkler 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 7:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday


  I left my doors on and didn't have any trouble.   Its defiantly some added 
weight but if you have a decent hoist it shouldn't be any problem.  -RJ

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein
  Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 6:15 PM
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

   

  Folks-

  I have heard both sides of this question - so I send it to the collective for 
some opinions.

  I have my car stripped in order to pull the body off the frame this 
Wednesday.  There is zero interior (aside from the dash), no wiring, firewall 
is stripped, A/C is removed, basically I have a steel shell.  I do, however, 
still have the glass in the car, and the doors mounted.  I do not plan to 
remove the glass - so do I have to remove the doors before I yank the body off 
the frame?  If it makes sense, I will do it.  If it does not matter - they are 
staying on the car.  

  The method used will be an engine hoist (cherry picker) with chains connected 
to the access holes for front body mounts (bottom right and left of firewall), 
and also lifted from the two holes in the trunk that feed the wiring down 
behind the bumper.  Again, chains fed through the wiring holes, through a 2x4 
with 1 ¼" hole, bolted through (like the guy on 72chevelle.com).  

  Thoughts?

  Tom Ringlein

  Clovis, Ca.

  1972 Chevelle 2-door coupe



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  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007 
7:05 PM

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

[RJ Winkler]

I left my doors on and didn’t have any trouble.   Its defiantly some added
weight but if you have a decent hoist it shouldn’t be any problem.  -RJ

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 6:15 PM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday

 

Folks-

I have heard both sides of this question – so I send it to the collective
for some opinions.

I have my car stripped in order to pull the body off the frame this
Wednesday.  There is zero interior (aside from the dash), no wiring,
firewall is stripped, A/C is removed, basically I have a steel shell.  I do,
however, still have the glass in the car, and the doors mounted.  I do not
plan to remove the glass – so do I have to remove the doors before I yank
the body off the frame?  If it makes sense, I will do it.  If it does not
matter – they are staying on the car.  

The method used will be an engine hoist (cherry picker) with chains
connected to the access holes for front body mounts (bottom right and left
of firewall), and also lifted from the two holes in the trunk that feed the
wiring down behind the bumper.  Again, chains fed through the wiring holes,
through a 2x4 with 1 ¼” hole, bolted through (like the guy on
72chevelle.com).  

Thoughts?

Tom Ringlein

Clovis, Ca.

1972 Chevelle 2-door coupe

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Eddie Bumgarner]

I pulled the body off the frame using the rafters in the shop, with a chainfall 
and a truckers heavyduty tiedown straps. But i ran a round pipe crossways of 
the rafters, that way the weight was on 4 or 5 rafter on each end. Hope this 
helps. Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv.

Howard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Thomas Ringlein wrote:
> I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers. Hopefully we
> won't get any on this topic.
> 
> I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some problems that need to be
> addressed occasionally on cars that have not been apart in 30-plus years.
> One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the frame mounts that are
> prone to rusting. I want to inspect my frame for rust, and in the process,
> put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the next 30 years or so. I
> plan to pull the car apart starting in January, but I don't have any high
> dollar tools or access to a local shop. Is there an easy way (or not too
> incredibly hard way) to pull the body in my garage? Can I use an engine
> hoist to lift the front, support it on some concrete blocks and a 4x4, do
> the same with the back, and roll the frame out from underneath it? Without
> buying some special tools and/or shop time, I am not sure of any other way.
> Any local guys know a place that can help me with this endeavor? My body
> shop of choice will only work on the body when it is on the frame. The
> ideal situation would be a good body guy that would work on the body while
> it was on a rotisserie so I could have 6-8 months to work on the chassis.
> There are at least a few guys here that have done this - what did you do?
> Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a cookie" routine...
> 
> T.J. Ringlein
> 72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and drives)
> Clovis, California
> 
T.J.
I have a video out that show's you how to pull the body off the
frame.Its the way you were talking about,using the hoist.My video also
will show you how to do your own repairs and save some money,if your in
to saving money. www.howardsbackyardautobody.com Its the adv.vol 2
video.I rebuilt a total out 69 Chevelle.

Howard




Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv.

 
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Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Howard]

Malibu wrote:
> Body off Frame How-To?Tom, try this link. I found it to be valuable when I 
> was restoring my '66. Click on BODY ROTISSERIE.
> http://www.si.hhs.nl/~rob/
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Thomas Ringlein 
>   To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
>   Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 12:24 AM
>   Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?
> 
> 
>   I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.  Hopefully we 
> won't get any on this topic.
> 
>   I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some problems that need to be 
> addressed occasionally on cars that have not been apart in 30-plus years.  
> One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the frame mounts that are 
> prone to rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for rust, and in the process, 
> put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the next 30 years or so.  I 
> plan to pull the car apart starting in January, but I don't have any high 
> dollar tools or access to a local shop.  Is there an easy way (or not too 
> incredibly hard way) to pull the body in my garage?  Can I use an engine 
> hoist to lift the front, support it on some concrete blocks and a 4x4, do the 
> same with the back, and roll the frame out from underneath it?  Without 
> buying some special tools and/or shop time, I am not sure of any other way.  
> Any local guys know a place that can help me with this endeavor?  My body 
> shop of choice will only work on the body when it is on the frame.  The ideal 
> situation
 would be a good body guy that would work on the body while it was on a 
rotisserie so I could have 6-8 months to work on the chassis.  There are at 
least a few guys here that have done this - what did you do?
> 
>   Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a cookie" routine...
> 
>   T.J. Ringlein
> 
>   72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and drives)
> 
>   Clovis, California
> 
Tom

www.howardsbackyardautobody.com

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Malibu]

Body off Frame How-To?Tom, try this link. I found it to be valuable when I was 
restoring my '66. Click on BODY ROTISSERIE.
http://www.si.hhs.nl/~rob/
  - Original Message - 
  From: Thomas Ringlein 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 12:24 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?


  I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.  Hopefully we 
won't get any on this topic.

  I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some problems that need to be 
addressed occasionally on cars that have not been apart in 30-plus years.  One 
of those happens to be the frame - notably, the frame mounts that are prone to 
rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for rust, and in the process, put some 
POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the next 30 years or so.  I plan to pull 
the car apart starting in January, but I don't have any high dollar tools or 
access to a local shop.  Is there an easy way (or not too incredibly hard way) 
to pull the body in my garage?  Can I use an engine hoist to lift the front, 
support it on some concrete blocks and a 4x4, do the same with the back, and 
roll the frame out from underneath it?  Without buying some special tools 
and/or shop time, I am not sure of any other way.  Any local guys know a place 
that can help me with this endeavor?  My body shop of choice will only work on 
the body when it is on the frame.  The ideal situation would be a good body guy 
that would work on the body while it was on a rotisserie so I could have 6-8 
months to work on the chassis.  There are at least a few guys here that have 
done this - what did you do?

  Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a cookie" routine...

  T.J. Ringlein

  72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and drives)

  Clovis, California

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Karl Groves]

I'd like to reiterate something everyone has said: THIS IS DANGEROUS.
During my first attempt, I was rather naïve in thinking it would be easy.
The body came up so effortlessly, but then that first sawhorse buckled and
the car fell and I spent the next several minutes thanking God there wasn't
anyone underneath the car. It really set me straight.   BE CAREFUL

Karl Groves
Master Certified CIW
http://www.karlcore.com 

Grayscale Content Management System:
http://www.grayscalecms.com

 

> -Original Message-
> From: mike f [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 11:46 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?
> 
> T.J, that is just about "exactly" the way I did it. If you 
> look carefully at the body of the car, the bottom sheet metal 
> has additional bracing located in the trans tailhousing area, 
> and further back. Find these sections and put your 4x4's 
> there. Jack it up from inside the frame first carefully. If 
> you can get under it, you can make the necessary block 
> arrangements to lift the body. Once it's up from the frame, 
> you replace the 4x4's and blocks and jackstands to the 
> "outside" of the frame. That way, you can just pull the frame 
> out from underneath it.  For goodness sakes, be carefull! 
> This lifting and do this will kill you if you are not 
> careful. It scared me and I was so careful. 
> 
> mike
> --- Karl Groves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > First thing you need to do is remove EVERYTHING you can 
> from the car.
> > Chevelle bodies are HEAVY. 
> >  
> > Now, others may have different tricks & tips to share, but the end 
> > goal is the same: Take the body off the frame and roll the 
> frame out 
> > from under the body.
> >  
> > My method is this:
> > 1. Place 1 saw horse at each corner of the body.
> > 2. Jack up the body
> > 3. Place pieces of wood (4x4s at least) between the saw horses, so 
> > you're supporting the body 4. Roll the frame out
> >  
> > Seems simple, right?
> > Well, I've demolished 2 sets of saw horses (that's right, 8 saw 
> > horses) this way.
> > The first set was metal, and the manufacturer claimed they 
> supported 
> > 800lbs each.  I think they got their lbs and grams confused because 
> > the legs buckled on the two front ones causing a chain 
> reaction an the 
> > car fell The second set was (seemed) more substantial, with 
> a claimed 
> > capacity of 1000lbs per pair.  I'm guessing that the Chevelle body 
> > weighs more than 2000lbs because one sawhorse completely 
> shattered and 
> > 2 of them buckled, but did not break.
> >  
> > I've now constructed my own saw horses out of 4x4 wood, 
> held together 
> > with
> > 1/2 inch threaded rod, bolted up nice & tight.
> > I have a 4x4 top piece, 4 legs that are 4x4s and braces 
> (front & back, 
> > and each side) made from 2x6s.
> >  
> > I do not know for sure that this will hold, but I'm almost 
> positive it 
> > will.
> > If it doesn't, the next step is welding some up!
> >  
> > I'll let you know how it goes
> > 
> > Karl Groves
> > Master Certified CIW
> > http://www.karlgroves.com
> > <http://www.karlgroves.com/>
> > 
> > Grayscale Content Management System:
> > http://www.grayscalecms.com
> > <http://www.grayscalecms.com/>
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> >   _
> > 
> > From: Thomas Ringlein
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 12:25 AM
> > To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers. 
>  Hopefully 
> > we won't get any on this topic.
> > 
> > I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some problems 
> that need 
> > to be addressed occasionally on cars that have not been apart in 
> > 30-plus years.
> > One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the frame 
> mounts that 
> > are prone to rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for rust, 
> and in the 
> > process, put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for 
> the next 30 
> > years or so.  I plan to pull the car apart starting in 
> January, but I 
> > don't have any high dollar tools or access to a local shop. 
>  Is there 
> > an easy way (or not too incredibly hard way) to pull the body in

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Jim H. Thompson]

I used 4x4, jack stands, cinder blocks, and two large jacks.

Strip the car first and take your time marking items as they come off. Write
a master list of where you put items or groups of items. i.e.: under the
bed, the shed, the attic, etc.

Raise the car as high as you can go. I used cinder blocks and two foot
square pieces of ?" plywood to place the jack stands and jack on to get as
much clearance as possible. You need almost four feet to get the frame to
roll out on tires. Remove the body bolts with an impact gun. The two in the
trunk were so rusted I air chiseled them out.

Support the body inside the frame, old tires, 55 gal drums, cinder blocks,
anything. Drop the frame, then you now need to support the body on the
outside of the frame. I used four stacks of cinder blocks and two 4x4. Roll
the frame out. Now you need to stabilize the body.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 12:25 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.  Hopefully we
won't get any on this topic.
I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some problems that need to be
addressed occasionally on cars that have not been apart in 30-plus years.
One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the frame mounts that are
prone to rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for rust, and in the process,
put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the next 30 years or so.  I
plan to pull the car apart starting in January, but I don't have any high
dollar tools or access to a local shop.  Is there an easy way (or not too
incredibly hard way) to pull the body in my garage?  Can I use an engine
hoist to lift the front, support it on some concrete blocks and a 4x4, do
the same with the back, and roll the frame out from underneath it?  Without
buying some special tools and/or shop time, I am not sure of any other way.
Any local guys know a place that can help me with this endeavor?  My body
shop of choice will only work on the body when it is on the frame.  The
ideal situation would be a good body guy that would work on the body while
it was on a rotisserie so I could have 6-8 months to work on the chassis.
There are at least a few guys here that have done this - what did you do?
Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a cookie" routine...
T.J. Ringlein
72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and drives)
Clovis, California

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Mike Holleman]

The 66 Chevelle I'm currently building broke off all but one of the cage nuts. 
Repairing them added a ton of time to the job. Luckily, the floors and trunk 
pans were coming out anyway. The ones above the axle are the worst to fix. Good 
luck. Take Rick's suggestion to heart and soak them boys good with a penetrate.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 2:16 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?


  Tom
 Seems like you have a pretty good handle on things.  Just take it 
slow and if something does not look right or safe , STOP and regroup.   Its not 
rocket science but it will take some planning.
 
   I'd suggest that you SOAK all the body mount bolts in some type 
of rust penetrator, starting now.   After 35 years those bolts maybe rusted to 
the nut.   You can easily break the nut plate loose and the bolt & nut plate 
will just spin.  You'll want to SOAK the bolt & nut with penetrant 2 or 3 times 
before you try to loosen them.   I was lucky in that I only broke 1 bolt when I 
removed mine.  I've heard horror stories of people who have broken 3 or 4 and 
had to cut thru the floor pan to get a hold of a spinning nut. 

  Good luck & keep us posted on your progress.

   
  On 11/22/06, mike f <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
T.J, that is just about "exactly" the way I did it. If
you look carefully at the body of the car, the bottom 
sheet metal has additional bracing located in the
trans tailhousing area, and further back. Find these
sections and put your 4x4's there. Jack it up from
inside the frame first carefully. If you can get under 
it, you can make the necessary block arrangements to
lift the body. Once it's up from the frame, you
replace the 4x4's and blocks and jackstands to the
"outside" of the frame. That way, you can just pull 
the frame out from underneath it.  For goodness sakes,
be carefull! This lifting and do this will kill you if
you are not careful. It scared me and I was so
careful.

mike
--- Karl Groves < [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> First thing you need to do is remove EVERYTHING you
> can from the car.
> Chevelle bodies are HEAVY.
>
> Now, others may have different tricks & tips to 
> share, but the end goal is
> the same: Take the body off the frame and roll the
> frame out from under the
> body.
>
> My method is this:
> 1. Place 1 saw horse at each corner of the body. 
> 2. Jack up the body
> 3. Place pieces of wood (4x4s at least) between the
> saw horses, so you're
> supporting the body
> 4. Roll the frame out
>
> Seems simple, right?
> Well, I've demolished 2 sets of saw horses (that's 
> right, 8 saw horses) this
> way.
> The first set was metal, and the manufacturer
> claimed they supported 800lbs
> each.  I think they got their lbs and grams confused
> because the legs 
> buckled on the two front ones causing a chain
> reaction an the car fell
> The second set was (seemed) more substantial, with a
> claimed capacity of
> 1000lbs per pair.  I'm guessing that the Chevelle 
> body weighs more than
> 2000lbs because one sawhorse completely shattered
> and 2 of them buckled, but
> did not break.
>
> I've now constructed my own saw horses out of 4x4
> wood, held together with 
> 1/2 inch threaded rod, bolted up nice & tight.
> I have a 4x4 top piece, 4 legs that are 4x4s and
> braces (front & back, and
> each side) made from 2x6s.
>
> I do not know for sure that this will hold, but I'm 
> almost positive it will.
> If it doesn't, the next step is welding some up!
>
> I'll let you know how it goes
>
> Karl Groves
> Master Certified CIW
> http://www.karlgroves.com
> <http://www.karlgroves.com/>
>
> Grayscale Content Management System:
> http://www.grayscalecms.com 
> <http://www.grayscalecms.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: Thomas Ringlein
> [mailto: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 12:25 AM
> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?
>
>
>
> I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid 
> answers.  Hopefully we
> won't get any on this topic.
>
> I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some
&g

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Rick Schaefer]

Tom
  Seems like you have a pretty good handle on things.  Just take it
slow and if something does not look right or safe , STOP and regroup.   Its
not rocket science but it will take some planning.

I'd suggest that you SOAK all the body mount bolts in some type
of rust penetrator, starting now.   After 35 years those bolts maybe rusted
to the nut.   You can easily break the nut plate loose and the bolt & nut
plate will just spin.  You'll want to SOAK the bolt & nut with penetrant 2
or 3 times before you try to loosen them.   I was lucky in that I only broke
1 bolt when I removed mine.  I've heard horror stories of people who have
broken 3 or 4 and had to cut thru the floor pan to get a hold of a spinning
nut.

Good luck & keep us posted on your progress.


On 11/22/06, mike f <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


T.J, that is just about "exactly" the way I did it. If
you look carefully at the body of the car, the bottom
sheet metal has additional bracing located in the
trans tailhousing area, and further back. Find these
sections and put your 4x4's there. Jack it up from
inside the frame first carefully. If you can get under
it, you can make the necessary block arrangements to
lift the body. Once it's up from the frame, you
replace the 4x4's and blocks and jackstands to the
"outside" of the frame. That way, you can just pull
the frame out from underneath it.  For goodness sakes,
be carefull! This lifting and do this will kill you if
you are not careful. It scared me and I was so
careful.

mike
--- Karl Groves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> First thing you need to do is remove EVERYTHING you
> can from the car.
> Chevelle bodies are HEAVY.
>
> Now, others may have different tricks & tips to
> share, but the end goal is
> the same: Take the body off the frame and roll the
> frame out from under the
> body.
>
> My method is this:
> 1. Place 1 saw horse at each corner of the body.
> 2. Jack up the body
> 3. Place pieces of wood (4x4s at least) between the
> saw horses, so you're
> supporting the body
> 4. Roll the frame out
>
> Seems simple, right?
> Well, I've demolished 2 sets of saw horses (that's
> right, 8 saw horses) this
> way.
> The first set was metal, and the manufacturer
> claimed they supported 800lbs
> each.  I think they got their lbs and grams confused
> because the legs
> buckled on the two front ones causing a chain
> reaction an the car fell
> The second set was (seemed) more substantial, with a
> claimed capacity of
> 1000lbs per pair.  I'm guessing that the Chevelle
> body weighs more than
> 2000lbs because one sawhorse completely shattered
> and 2 of them buckled, but
> did not break.
>
> I've now constructed my own saw horses out of 4x4
> wood, held together with
> 1/2 inch threaded rod, bolted up nice & tight.
> I have a 4x4 top piece, 4 legs that are 4x4s and
> braces (front & back, and
> each side) made from 2x6s.
>
> I do not know for sure that this will hold, but I'm
> almost positive it will.
> If it doesn't, the next step is welding some up!
>
> I'll let you know how it goes
>
> Karl Groves
> Master Certified CIW
> http://www.karlgroves.com
> 
>
> Grayscale Content Management System:
> http://www.grayscalecms.com
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: Thomas Ringlein
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 12:25 AM
> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?
>
>
>
> I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid
> answers.  Hopefully we
> won't get any on this topic.
>
> I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some
> problems that need to be
> addressed occasionally on cars that have not been
> apart in 30-plus years.
> One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the
> frame mounts that are
> prone to rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for
> rust, and in the process,
> put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the
> next 30 years or so.  I
> plan to pull the car apart starting in January, but
> I don't have any high
> dollar tools or access to a local shop.  Is there an
> easy way (or not too
> incredibly hard way) to pull the body in my garage?
> Can I use an engine
> hoist to lift the front, support it on some concrete
> blocks and a 4x4, do
> the same with the back, and roll the frame out from
> underneath it?  Without
> buying some special tools and/or shop time, I am not
> sure of any other way.
> Any local guys know a place that can help me with
> this endeavor?  My body
> shop of choice will only work on the body when it is
> on the frame.  The
> ideal situation would be a good body guy that would
> work on the body while
> it was on a rotisserie so I could have 6-8 months to
> work on the chassis.
> There are at least a few guys here that have done
> this - what did you do?
>
> Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a
> cookie" routine...
>
> T.J. Ringlein
>
> 72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and
> driv

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[mike f]

T.J, that is just about "exactly" the way I did it. If
you look carefully at the body of the car, the bottom
sheet metal has additional bracing located in the
trans tailhousing area, and further back. Find these
sections and put your 4x4's there. Jack it up from
inside the frame first carefully. If you can get under
it, you can make the necessary block arrangements to
lift the body. Once it's up from the frame, you
replace the 4x4's and blocks and jackstands to the
"outside" of the frame. That way, you can just pull
the frame out from underneath it.  For goodness sakes,
be carefull! This lifting and do this will kill you if
you are not careful. It scared me and I was so
careful. 

mike
--- Karl Groves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> First thing you need to do is remove EVERYTHING you
> can from the car.
> Chevelle bodies are HEAVY. 
>  
> Now, others may have different tricks & tips to
> share, but the end goal is
> the same: Take the body off the frame and roll the
> frame out from under the
> body.
>  
> My method is this:
> 1. Place 1 saw horse at each corner of the body.
> 2. Jack up the body
> 3. Place pieces of wood (4x4s at least) between the
> saw horses, so you're
> supporting the body
> 4. Roll the frame out
>  
> Seems simple, right?
> Well, I've demolished 2 sets of saw horses (that's
> right, 8 saw horses) this
> way.
> The first set was metal, and the manufacturer
> claimed they supported 800lbs
> each.  I think they got their lbs and grams confused
> because the legs
> buckled on the two front ones causing a chain
> reaction an the car fell
> The second set was (seemed) more substantial, with a
> claimed capacity of
> 1000lbs per pair.  I'm guessing that the Chevelle
> body weighs more than
> 2000lbs because one sawhorse completely shattered
> and 2 of them buckled, but
> did not break.
>  
> I've now constructed my own saw horses out of 4x4
> wood, held together with
> 1/2 inch threaded rod, bolted up nice & tight.
> I have a 4x4 top piece, 4 legs that are 4x4s and
> braces (front & back, and
> each side) made from 2x6s.
>  
> I do not know for sure that this will hold, but I'm
> almost positive it will.
> If it doesn't, the next step is welding some up!
>  
> I'll let you know how it goes
> 
> Karl Groves
> Master Certified CIW
> http://www.karlgroves.com
>  
> 
> Grayscale Content Management System:
> http://www.grayscalecms.com
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   _  
> 
> From: Thomas Ringlein
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 12:25 AM
> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?
> 
> 
> 
> I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid
> answers.  Hopefully we
> won't get any on this topic.
> 
> I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some
> problems that need to be
> addressed occasionally on cars that have not been
> apart in 30-plus years.
> One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the
> frame mounts that are
> prone to rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for
> rust, and in the process,
> put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the
> next 30 years or so.  I
> plan to pull the car apart starting in January, but
> I don't have any high
> dollar tools or access to a local shop.  Is there an
> easy way (or not too
> incredibly hard way) to pull the body in my garage? 
> Can I use an engine
> hoist to lift the front, support it on some concrete
> blocks and a 4x4, do
> the same with the back, and roll the frame out from
> underneath it?  Without
> buying some special tools and/or shop time, I am not
> sure of any other way.
> Any local guys know a place that can help me with
> this endeavor?  My body
> shop of choice will only work on the body when it is
> on the frame.  The
> ideal situation would be a good body guy that would
> work on the body while
> it was on a rotisserie so I could have 6-8 months to
> work on the chassis.
> There are at least a few guys here that have done
> this - what did you do?
> 
> Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a
> cookie" routine...
> 
> T.J. Ringlein
> 
> 72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and
> drives)
> 
> Clovis, California
> 
> 



 

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Online degrees - find the right program to advance your career. 
www.nextag.com

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Karl Groves]

First thing you need to do is remove EVERYTHING you can from the car.
Chevelle bodies are HEAVY. 
 
Now, others may have different tricks & tips to share, but the end goal is
the same: Take the body off the frame and roll the frame out from under the
body.
 
My method is this:
1. Place 1 saw horse at each corner of the body.
2. Jack up the body
3. Place pieces of wood (4x4s at least) between the saw horses, so you're
supporting the body
4. Roll the frame out
 
Seems simple, right?
Well, I've demolished 2 sets of saw horses (that's right, 8 saw horses) this
way.
The first set was metal, and the manufacturer claimed they supported 800lbs
each.  I think they got their lbs and grams confused because the legs
buckled on the two front ones causing a chain reaction an the car fell
The second set was (seemed) more substantial, with a claimed capacity of
1000lbs per pair.  I'm guessing that the Chevelle body weighs more than
2000lbs because one sawhorse completely shattered and 2 of them buckled, but
did not break.
 
I've now constructed my own saw horses out of 4x4 wood, held together with
1/2 inch threaded rod, bolted up nice & tight.
I have a 4x4 top piece, 4 legs that are 4x4s and braces (front & back, and
each side) made from 2x6s.
 
I do not know for sure that this will hold, but I'm almost positive it will.
If it doesn't, the next step is welding some up!
 
I'll let you know how it goes

Karl Groves
Master Certified CIW
http://www.karlgroves.com  

Grayscale Content Management System:
http://www.grayscalecms.com  



 


  _  

From: Thomas Ringlein [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 12:25 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?



I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.  Hopefully we
won't get any on this topic.

I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some problems that need to be
addressed occasionally on cars that have not been apart in 30-plus years.
One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the frame mounts that are
prone to rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for rust, and in the process,
put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the next 30 years or so.  I
plan to pull the car apart starting in January, but I don't have any high
dollar tools or access to a local shop.  Is there an easy way (or not too
incredibly hard way) to pull the body in my garage?  Can I use an engine
hoist to lift the front, support it on some concrete blocks and a 4x4, do
the same with the back, and roll the frame out from underneath it?  Without
buying some special tools and/or shop time, I am not sure of any other way.
Any local guys know a place that can help me with this endeavor?  My body
shop of choice will only work on the body when it is on the frame.  The
ideal situation would be a good body guy that would work on the body while
it was on a rotisserie so I could have 6-8 months to work on the chassis.
There are at least a few guys here that have done this - what did you do?

Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a cookie" routine...

T.J. Ringlein

72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and drives)

Clovis, California

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Shawn Price]

T.J.
 When I pulled the body off of my '69, I used two military carrier  
straps bolted to the rafters in my garage. The straps had nice  
racheting mechanisms so that once I had one placed under the roof at  
the A pillar and the other under the rear wheel wells, I was able to  
lift it slowly off the frame by myself. Once I had the frame rolled  
out, I put the body on jack stands and left the straps attached for  
the re-install. It was pretty easy and required no fancy tools.


--
Shawn
'69 Corvette 427 4-Speed
'69 Chevelle SS 396 4-Speed
'69 Charger R/T 383 4-Speed
'67 Chevy C-10 3-On The Tree
'00 Suzuki GSX-R 750 1-Down, 5-Up


On Nov 22, 2006, at 10:10 AM, Howard wrote:


Thomas Ringlein wrote:
I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.   
Hopefully we

won't get any on this topic.

I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some problems that  
need to be
addressed occasionally on cars that have not been apart in 30-plus  
years.
One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the frame mounts  
that are
prone to rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for rust, and in the  
process,
put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the next 30 years  
or so.  I
plan to pull the car apart starting in January, but I don't have  
any high
dollar tools or access to a local shop.  Is there an easy way (or  
not too
incredibly hard way) to pull the body in my garage?  Can I use an  
engine
hoist to lift the front, support it on some concrete blocks and a  
4x4, do
the same with the back, and roll the frame out from underneath  
it?  Without
buying some special tools and/or shop time, I am not sure of any  
other way.
Any local guys know a place that can help me with this endeavor?   
My body
shop of choice will only work on the body when it is on the  
frame.  The
ideal situation would be a good body guy that would work on the  
body while
it was on a rotisserie so I could have 6-8 months to work on the  
chassis.
There are at least a few guys here that have done this - what did  
you do?
Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a cookie"  
routine...


T.J. Ringlein
72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and drives)
Clovis, California


T.J.
I have a video out that show's you how to pull the body off the
frame.Its the way you were talking about,using the hoist.My video also
will show you how to do your own repairs and save some money,if  
your in

to saving money. www.howardsbackyardautobody.com Its the adv.vol 2
video.I rebuilt a total out 69 Chevelle.

Howard





smime.p7s
Description: S/MIME cryptographic signature

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off Frame How-To?

[Howard]

Thomas Ringlein wrote:
> I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.  Hopefully we
> won't get any on this topic.
> 
> I know the classic "A-body" cars we love have some problems that need to be
> addressed occasionally on cars that have not been apart in 30-plus years.
> One of those happens to be the frame - notably, the frame mounts that are
> prone to rusting.  I want to inspect my frame for rust, and in the process,
> put some POR-15 on it to prevent it rusting for the next 30 years or so.  I
> plan to pull the car apart starting in January, but I don't have any high
> dollar tools or access to a local shop.  Is there an easy way (or not too
> incredibly hard way) to pull the body in my garage?  Can I use an engine
> hoist to lift the front, support it on some concrete blocks and a 4x4, do
> the same with the back, and roll the frame out from underneath it?  Without
> buying some special tools and/or shop time, I am not sure of any other way.
> Any local guys know a place that can help me with this endeavor?  My body
> shop of choice will only work on the body when it is on the frame.  The
> ideal situation would be a good body guy that would work on the body while
> it was on a rotisserie so I could have 6-8 months to work on the chassis.
> There are at least a few guys here that have done this - what did you do?
> Now if I can only prevent the "if you give a mouse a cookie" routine...
> 
> T.J. Ringlein
> 72 Chevelle in shambles (but it still runs and drives)
> Clovis, California
> 
T.J.
I have a video out that show's you how to pull the body off the
frame.Its the way you were talking about,using the hoist.My video also
will show you how to do your own repairs and save some money,if your in
to saving money. www.howardsbackyardautobody.com Its the adv.vol 2
video.I rebuilt a total out 69 Chevelle.

Howard

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[Bill Bradley IV]

my thoughts exactly, but thats also an excuse of 
mine.
Bill Bradley
67 Malibu
Edmond Ok

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ryan 
  Langstraat 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 9:12 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on 
  rotisserie - support door openings?
  
  With all this talk of rotisserie's I was 
  wondering if anyone out there had a set of plans to build one that they would 
  be willing to share.  I have found a couple plans on the net but I figure 
  you guys on here would probably have one that worked for Chevelles a little 
  better.  Thank you
   
   
  Ryan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[Mike Holleman]

Karl, Don't try to replace major 
structural panels while on a rotissisory. You need the car supported by the 
chassis support points when changing a quarter,roof etc.  
Mike Holleman

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Karl Groves 
  
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 8:45 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on 
  rotisserie - support door openings?
  
  I am building mine.
  In fact, I'm thinking of building them and selling 
  them.
  There are a lot of pretty good rotisseries out there, but 
  the shipping costs are insane.  I figure if I build them, I could have a 
  good market on the east coast, since the guy with the cheapest rotisseries is 
  in CA.  Shipping something that heavy from CA is just out of the 
  question.
   
  Anyway, I think I might need to brace these doors anyway, 
  since I'm gonna be cutting my roof off to do a roof 
  transplant.
   
  Anyone know where to find door 
  supports?
   
  Karl GrovesMaster Certified CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.comWill 
  Work For Parts:http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3 
  
   
  


From: Dan McIntosh 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 7:26 
PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: 
[Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door 
openings?

Yep, if your car is a hardtop , the roof 
supplies all the support needed.  
 
Did you make your rotisserie, or buy one.  
I'd really like to use one for my car but dont really want the cost of 
buying one new, nor the time of building one, 
since I dont presume to ever need it again.
 
Dan McIntosh1960 Impala Sport 
CoupeStreet Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com
 
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ron 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:48 
      AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on 
  rotisserie - support door openings?
  Not that I'm an expert, but the only time I have seen the 
  support in placewas on convertible bodies because they tend to 
  flex.-Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED][mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  On Behalf Of Karl GrovesSent: Friday, January 27, 2006 6:04 AMTo: 
  'The Chevelle Mailing List'Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie 
  - support door openings?Can any of you body guys answer this?I 
  am getting ready (in a few weeks) to take the body off the frame and 
  putit on a rotisserie. I've seen pics where people put a rod in to 
  supportwhere the doors were, and I've seen other pics where people did 
  not.  Do Ineed to support the door openings?Karl 
  GrovesMaster Certified CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.com 
  Will Work For Parts:http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3
  
  

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  Edition.Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.23/243 - Release Date: 
  1/27/2006

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[Ryan Langstraat]

With all this talk of rotisserie's I was wondering 
if anyone out there had a set of plans to build one that they would be willing 
to share.  I have found a couple plans on the net but I figure you guys on 
here would probably have one that worked for Chevelles a little better.  
Thank you
 
 
Ryan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[Dan McIntosh]

Yep, if your car is a hardtop , the roof supplies 
all the support needed.  
 
Did you make your rotisserie, or buy one.  I'd 
really like to use one for my car but dont really want the cost of buying one 
new, nor the time of building one, since I dont 
presume to ever need it again.
 
Dan McIntosh1960 Impala Sport CoupeStreet 
Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com
 
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ron 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:48 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on 
  rotisserie - support door openings?
  Not that I'm an expert, but the only time I have seen the 
  support in placewas on convertible bodies because they tend to 
  flex.-Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED][mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  On Behalf Of Karl GrovesSent: Friday, January 27, 2006 6:04 AMTo: 'The 
  Chevelle Mailing List'Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - 
  support door openings?Can any of you body guys answer this?I am 
  getting ready (in a few weeks) to take the body off the frame and putit on 
  a rotisserie. I've seen pics where people put a rod in to supportwhere the 
  doors were, and I've seen other pics where people did not.  Do Ineed 
  to support the door openings?Karl GrovesMaster Certified CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.com Will 
  Work For Parts:http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[Michael Pell]

If you can build a rotisserie, then you can build a door support also.

Use the threaded hole at the striker, and the threaded holes for the
door hinges (for each top and bottom).  Bolt a flat piece to each of
these (3 places), then cut a length of square tube (2 of these) to fit
between them, and weld each end.  Voila, It's supported.  :-)

Maybe a piece of angle iron for the striker end.  Might make it easier
to weld to.

Mike
--
  I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my
  life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -author unknown
  http://www.christianet.com

  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
  TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
  Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
  Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6


Karl Groves wrote:

  
  
  
  I am building mine.
  In fact, I'm thinking of
building them and selling them.
  There are a lot of pretty good
rotisseries out there, but the shipping costs are insane.  I figure if
I build them, I could have a good market on the east coast, since the
guy with the cheapest rotisseries is in CA.  Shipping something that
heavy from CA is just out of the question.
   
  Anyway, I think I might need to
brace these doors anyway, since I'm gonna be cutting my roof off to do
a roof transplant.
   
  Anyone know where to find door
supports?
   

  Karl Groves
Master Certified CIW
  http://www.karlgroves.com
  
Will Work For Parts:
  http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3
  
   
  
  

 From: Dan
McIntosh [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] 
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 7:26 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
    Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support
door openings?


Yep, if your car is a hardtop ,
the roof supplies all the support needed.  
 
Did you make your rotisserie, or
buy one.  I'd really like to use one for my car but dont really want
the cost of buying one new, nor the time
of building one, since I dont presume to ever need it again.
 
Dan McIntosh
1960 Impala Sport Coupe
Street Metal Fabrications
http://www.lowriderimpala.com
 
 

  -
Original Message - 
  From:
  Ron 
  To:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
; 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
  
  Sent:
Friday, January 27, 2006 8:48 AM
  Subject:
Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?
  
  
Not that I'm an expert, but the only time I have seen the support in
place
was on convertible bodies because they tend to flex.
  
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Karl Groves
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 6:04 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?
  
Can any of you body guys answer this?
I am getting ready (in a few weeks) to take the body off the frame and
put
it on a rotisserie. I've seen pics where people put a rod in to support
where the doors were, and I've seen other pics where people did not. 
Do I
need to support the door openings?
  
Karl Groves
Master Certified CIW
  http://www.karlgroves.com
  
  
Will Work For Parts:
  http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3
  
  
  

  
  


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Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[Karl Groves]

I am building mine.
In fact, I'm thinking of building them and selling 
them.
There are a lot of pretty good rotisseries out there, but 
the shipping costs are insane.  I figure if I build them, I could have a 
good market on the east coast, since the guy with the cheapest rotisseries is in 
CA.  Shipping something that heavy from CA is just out of the 
question.
 
Anyway, I think I might need to brace these doors anyway, 
since I'm gonna be cutting my roof off to do a roof 
transplant.
 
Anyone know where to find door 
supports?
 
Karl GrovesMaster Certified CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.comWill Work 
For Parts:http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3 

 

  
  
  From: Dan McIntosh 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 7:26 
  PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door 
  openings?
  
  Yep, if your car is a hardtop , the roof supplies 
  all the support needed.  
   
  Did you make your rotisserie, or buy one.  
  I'd really like to use one for my car but dont really want the cost of buying 
  one new, nor the time of building one, since I 
  dont presume to ever need it again.
   
  Dan McIntosh1960 Impala Sport CoupeStreet 
  Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com
   
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Ron 

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:48 
AM
    Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on 
rotisserie - support door openings?
Not that I'm an expert, but the only time I have seen the 
support in placewas on convertible bodies because they tend to 
flex.-Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED][mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of Karl GrovesSent: Friday, January 27, 2006 6:04 AMTo: 
'The Chevelle Mailing List'Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - 
support door openings?Can any of you body guys answer this?I am 
getting ready (in a few weeks) to take the body off the frame and putit 
on a rotisserie. I've seen pics where people put a rod in to 
supportwhere the doors were, and I've seen other pics where people did 
not.  Do Ineed to support the door openings?Karl 
GrovesMaster Certified CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.com Will 
Work For Parts:http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[Michael Pell]

I put my 69 Malibu on a homemade rotisserie with no door support.  It
didn't flex that I know of, and I even worked inside it with no
additional support.
Here's some pics:
http://www.prostreetcar.com/body_rotisserie.html
--
  I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my
  life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -author unknown
  http://www.christianet.com

  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
  TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
  Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
  Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
  
  Correct, only on a Convertible 
  Should you Do that, and even then I restored a Convertible on a
rotisserie was careful ,and it did not flex 
  Joe P. 
 
-Original Message-
From: Ron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'The Chevelle Mailing List'

Sent: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 06:48:57 -0700
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?
  
  
  
  Not that I'm an expert, but the only time I have seen the support in place
was on convertible bodies because they tend to flex.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Karl Groves
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 6:04 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

Can any of you body guys answer this?
I am getting ready (in a few weeks) to take the body off the frame and put
it on a rotisserie. I've seen pics where people put a rod in to support
where the doors were, and I've seen other pics where people did not.  Do I
need to support the door openings?

Karl Groves
Master Certified CIW
http://www.karlgroves.com 

Will Work For Parts:
http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3





  

  
  


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Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[rottyjoe]

Correct, only on a Convertible 
Should you Do that, and even then I restored a Convertible on a rotisserie was careful ,and it did not flex 
Joe P.  -Original Message-From: Ron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 06:48:57 -0700Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?


Not that I'm an expert, but the only time I have seen the support in place
was on convertible bodies because they tend to flex.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Karl Groves
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 6:04 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

Can any of you body guys answer this?
I am getting ready (in a few weeks) to take the body off the frame and put
it on a rotisserie. I've seen pics where people put a rod in to support
where the doors were, and I've seen other pics where people did not.  Do I
need to support the door openings?

Karl Groves
Master Certified CIW
http://www.karlgroves.com 

Will Work For Parts:
http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[MICRLASER]

In a message dated 1/27/2006 8:08:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Can any 
  of you body guys answer this?I am getting ready (in a few weeks) to take 
  the body off the frame and putit on a rotisserie. I've seen pics where 
  people put a rod in to supportwhere the doors were, and I've seen other 
  pics where people did not.  Do Ineed to support the door 
  openings?Karl GrovesMaster Certified 
  CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.com 

I would if it were a convertible.  I've done 2 Chevelles on 
rotisseries, never braced them, never had a problem.  Also have my 69 
Charger up on the rotisserie now, not braced.  There is another guy at the 
school that has a 69 GTO convertible up on a rotisserie and he braced the whole 
inside.  I can take pictures of it on Monday if needed.
 
Tom

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[SHOVEL6793]

i have done chevelles on rotary before  and never used a 
brace with no problems. but i wouldn't go cutting the structor apart on a rotary 
but foor pans ect.  arnt a problem 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

[Ron]

Not that I'm an expert, but the only time I have seen the support in place
was on convertible bodies because they tend to flex.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Groves
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 6:04 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body on rotisserie - support door openings?

Can any of you body guys answer this?
I am getting ready (in a few weeks) to take the body off the frame and put
it on a rotisserie. I've seen pics where people put a rod in to support
where the doors were, and I've seen other pics where people did not.  Do I
need to support the door openings?

Karl Groves
Master Certified CIW
http://www.karlgroves.com 

Will Work For Parts:
http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel Question - 66/67 Chevelle

[Larry Shouse]

I took my car to a guy that works at a restoration 
shop doing body and paint. He does bodywork at his home shop, then trailers 
it in to his place of employment to use the booth to paint. His boss allows 
it for a fee.
 
Anyway, he is stripping the car down to bare metal, 
then he will have his shop's "lead man" come in to redo the seams where the 
patch panels were used, then he's going to epoxy primer to seal the car, then 
block and paint. I'll just have him get those two seams while the "lead man" is 
working.
 
Can't wait to see the car in about 6 weeks. I'll 
have to visit and take pictures every week or two...
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mike 
  Holleman 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 1:09 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
  Question - 66/67 Chevelle
  
  Larry, I did not intend to imply that lead is 
  better. You might find it more than a little difficult to find someone with 
  that skill. Unless you are building a car for the purpose of a national level 
  showcar I would simply let your bodyman cover the seams using a good quality 
  modern filler.
  Mike
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 12:52 
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
Question - 66/67 Chevelle

Mike and Gene, thanks for your insight. I'll 
have it leaded in.
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mike 
  Holleman 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 9:35 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Panel Question - 66/67 Chevelle
  
  Larry, Those seams are where the rear quarter 
  panels attach to the rear deck filler panel. I believe in 66 this seam was 
  still being leaded. On a original factory job the seams never are 
  completely hidden with filler. They did their best but this was mass 
  production. With modern materials and modern body work methods they can be 
  made to go away.
  Mike  
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: Chevelle List 
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 
10:03 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
Question - 66/67 Chevelle

On a 66/67 Chevelle - on the back corners 
of the roof line, where the roof comes down to the read deck lid, there 
is a rectangular piece of sheetmetal. This piece would be flanked on the 
left and right by the roof line coming down, the rear window glass is 
above it and the truck lid is just below it.
 
Now that you know what I'm talking about (I 
hope), can you guys familiar with this area please tell me on an 
original 66 or 67, is there a seam at the left and right edge where this 
panel meets the roof line?
 
In mine, which is in primer, I can see the 
seam at both ends, but it's filled with Bondo. Last time I went to Old 
Town in Kissimmee and looked closely, both restored 66's did not have a 
seam there. It was totally covered with Bondo and painted over. Which is 
correct?
 
Thanks,
Larry



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Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel Question - 66/67 Chevelle

[Mike Holleman]

Larry, I did not intend to imply that lead is 
better. You might find it more than a little difficult to find someone with that 
skill. Unless you are building a car for the purpose of a national level showcar 
I would simply let your bodyman cover the seams using a good quality modern 
filler.
Mike

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 12:52 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
  Question - 66/67 Chevelle
  
  Mike and Gene, thanks for your insight. I'll have 
  it leaded in.
   
  Larry
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Mike 
Holleman 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 9:35 
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
Question - 66/67 Chevelle

Larry, Those seams are where the rear quarter 
panels attach to the rear deck filler panel. I believe in 66 this seam was 
still being leaded. On a original factory job the seams never are 
completely hidden with filler. They did their best but this was mass 
production. With modern materials and modern body work methods they can be 
made to go away.
Mike  

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 
  10:03 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
  Question - 66/67 Chevelle
  
  On a 66/67 Chevelle - on the back corners of 
  the roof line, where the roof comes down to the read deck lid, there is a 
  rectangular piece of sheetmetal. This piece would be flanked on the left 
  and right by the roof line coming down, the rear window glass is above it 
  and the truck lid is just below it.
   
  Now that you know what I'm talking about (I 
  hope), can you guys familiar with this area please tell me on an original 
  66 or 67, is there a seam at the left and right edge where this panel 
  meets the roof line?
   
  In mine, which is in primer, I can see the 
  seam at both ends, but it's filled with Bondo. Last time I went to Old 
  Town in Kissimmee and looked closely, both restored 66's did not have a 
  seam there. It was totally covered with Bondo and painted over. Which is 
  correct?
   
  Thanks,
  Larry
  
  

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  Date: 9/30/2005
  
  

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Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel Question - 66/67 Chevelle

[Larry Shouse]

Mike and Gene, thanks for your insight. I'll have 
it leaded in.
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mike 
  Holleman 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 9:35 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
  Question - 66/67 Chevelle
  
  Larry, Those seams are where the rear quarter 
  panels attach to the rear deck filler panel. I believe in 66 this seam was 
  still being leaded. On a original factory job the seams never are 
  completely hidden with filler. They did their best but this was mass 
  production. With modern materials and modern body work methods they can be 
  made to go away.
  Mike  
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: Chevelle List 
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 10:03 
PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
Question - 66/67 Chevelle

On a 66/67 Chevelle - on the back corners of 
the roof line, where the roof comes down to the read deck lid, there is a 
rectangular piece of sheetmetal. This piece would be flanked on the left and 
right by the roof line coming down, the rear window glass is above it and 
the truck lid is just below it.
 
Now that you know what I'm talking about (I 
hope), can you guys familiar with this area please tell me on an original 66 
or 67, is there a seam at the left and right edge where this panel meets the 
roof line?
 
In mine, which is in primer, I can see the seam 
at both ends, but it's filled with Bondo. Last time I went to Old Town in 
Kissimmee and looked closely, both restored 66's did not have a seam there. 
It was totally covered with Bondo and painted over. Which is 
correct?
 
Thanks,
Larry



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Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/116 - Release 
Date: 9/30/2005

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel Question - 66/67 Chevelle

[Mike Holleman]

Larry, Those seams are where the rear quarter 
panels attach to the rear deck filler panel. I believe in 66 this seam was still 
being leaded. On a original factory job the seams never are completely 
hidden with filler. They did their best but this was mass production. With 
modern materials and modern body work methods they can be made to go 
away.
Mike  

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 10:03 
  PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
  Question - 66/67 Chevelle
  
  On a 66/67 Chevelle - on the back corners of the 
  roof line, where the roof comes down to the read deck lid, there is a 
  rectangular piece of sheetmetal. This piece would be flanked on the left and 
  right by the roof line coming down, the rear window glass is above it and the 
  truck lid is just below it.
   
  Now that you know what I'm talking about (I 
  hope), can you guys familiar with this area please tell me on an original 66 
  or 67, is there a seam at the left and right edge where this panel meets the 
  roof line?
   
  In mine, which is in primer, I can see the seam 
  at both ends, but it's filled with Bondo. Last time I went to Old Town in 
  Kissimmee and looked closely, both restored 66's did not have a seam there. It 
  was totally covered with Bondo and painted over. Which is 
correct?
   
  Thanks,
  Larry
  
  

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  Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/116 - Release Date: 
  9/30/2005

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel Question - 66/67 Chevelle

[Gene Smith]

Hi,
 This part is usually called the deck filler and 
originally there are seams on each side of it that are filled with seam 
sealer
 
Gene

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 9:03 
  PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Panel 
  Question - 66/67 Chevelle
  
  On a 66/67 Chevelle - on the back corners of the 
  roof line, where the roof comes down to the read deck lid, there is a 
  rectangular piece of sheetmetal. This piece would be flanked on the left and 
  right by the roof line coming down, the rear window glass is above it and the 
  truck lid is just below it.
   
  Now that you know what I'm talking about (I 
  hope), can you guys familiar with this area please tell me on an original 66 
  or 67, is there a seam at the left and right edge where this panel meets the 
  roof line?
   
  In mine, which is in primer, I can see the seam 
  at both ends, but it's filled with Bondo. Last time I went to Old Town in 
  Kissimmee and looked closely, both restored 66's did not have a seam there. It 
  was totally covered with Bondo and painted over. Which is 
correct?
   
  Thanks,
  Larry

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Trooper]

Not really. It's a two part primer. Dupont's 2570 is mixed 2:1
Epoxy:Activator. Your pot life is shorter but it lays down pretty easy.

- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Shouse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations


Trooper,
What you're saying makes sense. Is it any harder to mix/shoot an epoxy
primer?

Larry
  - Original Message - 
  From: Trooper
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations


  Larry,
If your going to do it in piece work (one part at a time) I think you
will need to sand the Uroprimer down to bare metal (check with a DuPont rep)
before epoxy primer. You'll need to take it off anywhere you need to do body
work anyway. You can then do your filler work and epoxy prime or epoxy prime
then filler. I prefer the latter then I give it a second coat of epoxy and
let it sit while I work on the next piece. The epoxy primer can sit
indefinately but will need to be sanded when you get to the stage that you
want to finish the job.

  Trooper
- Original Message - 
From: Larry Shouse
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations


My situation is this:

I bought a 66SS with the restoration started. The chassis has been media
blasted and painted. The body has beed on a rotissouri (sp?), the floors
have been replaced and the body is now rust free. The body is currently
coated with DuPont's UroPrimer but still needs some minor bodywork and
blocking. The doors and front fenders haven't been touched. The fenders need
patch panels and the doors have some rust as well, and may get new skins.

I want to do all the bodywork myself, taking my time, piece by piece.
Given my situation above, what would you all recommend? I like the idea of
using an epoxy primer. I would prefer to seal each piece as I "finish" it,
so it doesn't start rusting while waiting for the rest of the body to get
done. I would imagine it may take me 3 to 6 months to get the body where I
want.

I have a compressor, but don't have a gun yet, but plan to buy one. I've
shot paint before many moons ago, but I don't have access to a booth.

I appreciate any/all wisdom...

Thanks,
Larry Shouse


  - Original Message - 
  From: Trooper
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations


  Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer and doesn't
require any special pretreatment to the metal (just clean, oil free, dirt
free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An epoxy primer is the primer
of choice if your going to need time to finish the project, need a water
proof primer, need durability, or want to do body work over the primer.
Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS porous, will absorb
water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen VariPrime start to
rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the car.

  Trooper
- Original Message - 
From: Gene's General Restoration Parts
        To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations


While epoxy is good it requires metal treating whereas the
Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it has a longer
gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, Vari-Prime is the
only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't like the PPG self
etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when block sanding and
the Vari-Prime doesn't.

 On the other hand, epoxy is good on undersides and frames and other
items that can by painted right away as soon as the epoxy flashes, in other
words without sanding.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Shouse
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations


  Thanks to everyone who responded.

  Bill, I will be emailing you further off list.

  Larry
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Vander Werf
        To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations


I would recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before
using a primer surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any
primer surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the
elements, even stored in a garage 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Larry Shouse]

Trooper,
What you're saying makes sense. Is it any harder to 
mix/shoot an epoxy primer?
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Trooper 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:22 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  Larry,
    If your going to do it in piece work (one 
  part at a time) I think you will need to sand the Uroprimer down to bare 
  metal (check with a DuPont rep) before epoxy primer. You'll need to take it 
  off anywhere you need to do body work anyway. You can then do your filler work 
  and epoxy prime or epoxy prime then filler. I prefer the latter then I give it 
  a second coat of epoxy and let it sit while I work on the next piece. The 
  epoxy primer can sit indefinately but will need to be sanded when you get to 
  the stage that you want to finish the job.
   
  Trooper
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:46 
PM
    Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
Recommendations

My situation is this: 
 
I bought a 66SS with the restoration started. 
The chassis has been media blasted and painted. The body has beed on a 
rotissouri (sp?), the floors have been replaced and the body is now rust 
free. The body is currently coated with DuPont's UroPrimer but still needs 
some minor bodywork and blocking. The doors and front fenders haven't been 
touched. The fenders need patch panels and the doors have some rust as well, 
and may get new skins.
 
I want to do all the bodywork myself, taking my 
time, piece by piece. Given my situation above, what would you all 
recommend? I like the idea of using an epoxy primer. I would prefer to seal 
each piece as I "finish" it, so it doesn't start rusting while waiting for 
the rest of the body to get done. I would imagine it may take me 3 to 6 
months to get the body where I want.
 
I have a compressor, but don't have a gun yet, 
but plan to buy one. I've shot paint before many moons ago, but I don't have 
access to a booth.
 
I appreciate any/all wisdom...
 
Thanks,
Larry Shouse
 
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Trooper 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy 
  primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal 
  (just clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for 
  you. An epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need 
  time to finish the project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or 
  want to do body work over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self 
  etch primer is IS porous, will absorb water and will start to rust if not 
  topcoated. I've seen VariPrime start to rust in about a week in places 
  where guys have touch the car.
   
  Trooper
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Gene's General Restoration 
Parts 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

    Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
Paint Recommendations

While epoxy is good it requires metal 
treating whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not 
porous and it has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing 
against PPG, Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, 
I just don't like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog 
sandpaper when block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't.
 
 On the other hand, epoxy is good on 
undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as 
soon as the epoxy flashes, in other words without 
sanding. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing 
  List 
          Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  Thanks to everyone who responded. 
  
   
  Bill, I will be emailing you further off 
  list.
   
  Larry
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Bill Vander Werf 
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing 
List' 
    Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 
4:56 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] 
Body Paint Recommendations


I 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Trooper]

Larry,
  If your going to do it in piece work (one 
part at a time) I think you will need to sand the Uroprimer down to bare 
metal (check with a DuPont rep) before epoxy primer. You'll need to take it off 
anywhere you need to do body work anyway. You can then do your filler work and 
epoxy prime or epoxy prime then filler. I prefer the latter then I give it a 
second coat of epoxy and let it sit while I work on the next piece. The epoxy 
primer can sit indefinately but will need to be sanded when you get to the stage 
that you want to finish the job.
 
Trooper

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:46 
PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  My situation is this: 
   
  I bought a 66SS with the restoration started. The 
  chassis has been media blasted and painted. The body has beed on a rotissouri 
  (sp?), the floors have been replaced and the body is now rust free. The body 
  is currently coated with DuPont's UroPrimer but still needs some minor 
  bodywork and blocking. The doors and front fenders haven't been touched. The 
  fenders need patch panels and the doors have some rust as well, and may get 
  new skins.
   
  I want to do all the bodywork myself, taking my 
  time, piece by piece. Given my situation above, what would you all recommend? 
  I like the idea of using an epoxy primer. I would prefer to seal each piece as 
  I "finish" it, so it doesn't start rusting while waiting for the rest of the 
  body to get done. I would imagine it may take me 3 to 6 months to get the body 
  where I want.
   
  I have a compressor, but don't have a gun yet, 
  but plan to buy one. I've shot paint before many moons ago, but I don't have 
  access to a booth.
   
  I appreciate any/all wisdom...
   
  Thanks,
  Larry Shouse
   
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Trooper 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
Recommendations

Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy 
primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just 
clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An 
epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish 
the project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body 
work over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS 
porous, will absorb water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen 
VariPrime start to rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the 
car.
 
Trooper

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Gene's General Restoration 
  Parts 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  While epoxy is good it requires metal 
  treating whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not 
  porous and it has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing 
  against PPG, Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I 
  just don't like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog 
  sandpaper when block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't.
   
   On the other hand, epoxy is good on 
  undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as 
  soon as the epoxy flashes, in other words without 
  sanding. 
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

        Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
Paint Recommendations

Thanks to everyone who responded. 

 
Bill, I will be emailing you further off 
list.
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Bill Vander Werf 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing 
  List' 
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  
  I would 
  recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer 
  surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer 
  surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the 
  elements, even stored in a garage can…not can…WILL lead to rust later. 
  
   
  I would 
  recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill 
  capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the 
  dinosaur f

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Larry Shouse]

My situation is this: 
 
I bought a 66SS with the restoration started. The 
chassis has been media blasted and painted. The body has beed on a rotissouri 
(sp?), the floors have been replaced and the body is now rust free. The body is 
currently coated with DuPont's UroPrimer but still needs some minor bodywork and 
blocking. The doors and front fenders haven't been touched. The fenders need 
patch panels and the doors have some rust as well, and may get new 
skins.
 
I want to do all the bodywork myself, taking my 
time, piece by piece. Given my situation above, what would you all recommend? I 
like the idea of using an epoxy primer. I would prefer to seal each piece as I 
"finish" it, so it doesn't start rusting while waiting for the rest of the body 
to get done. I would imagine it may take me 3 to 6 months to get the body where 
I want.
 
I have a compressor, but don't have a gun yet, but 
plan to buy one. I've shot paint before many moons ago, but I don't have access 
to a booth.
 
I appreciate any/all wisdom...
 
Thanks,
Larry Shouse
 
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Trooper 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 
PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy 
  primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just 
  clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An 
  epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish the 
  project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body work 
  over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS porous, 
  will absorb water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen VariPrime 
  start to rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the 
  car.
   
  Trooper
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Gene's General Restoration 
Parts 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
Recommendations

While epoxy is good it requires metal treating 
whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it 
has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, 
Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't 
like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when 
block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't.
 
 On the other hand, epoxy is good on 
undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon 
as the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
      Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  Thanks to everyone who responded. 
  
   
  Bill, I will be emailing you further off 
  list.
   
  Larry
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Bill 
Vander Werf 
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing 
List' 
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body 
Paint Recommendations


I would 
recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer 
surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer 
surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the 
elements, even stored in a garage can…not can…WILL lead to rust later. 

 
I would 
recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill 
capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the 
dinosaur family.
 
Basecoat 
clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything 
the factory used “back in the day” but it is easier for a novice to use 
and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage 
metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat 
clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat 
is also much easier to spot repair in the event that something might 
happen to your baby.
 
I sell PPG 
paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of 
paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will make 
you happy.
 
I would be glad 
to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly.  

 
Bill 
Vander 
Werf
 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
-Original 
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[suprsprt72]

i have the ultra 7000  and the entire system 
on my chevelle  yes expencive but well worth it  been on my car for 6 
and half years and looks as good as it did the day it was buffed   
jmo-opinion  suprsprt72

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  suprsprt72 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:52 
PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/
  
- Original Message - check out the 
link    suprsprt72
From: 
Trooper 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
Recommendations

Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy 
primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just 
clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An 
epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish 
the project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body 
work over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS 
porous, will absorb water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen 
VariPrime start to rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the 
car.
 
Trooper

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Gene's General Restoration 
  Parts 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 
  AM
      Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  While epoxy is good it requires metal 
  treating whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not 
  porous and it has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing 
  against PPG, Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I 
  just don't like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog 
  sandpaper when block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't.
   
   On the other hand, epoxy is good on 
  undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as 
  soon as the epoxy flashes, in other words without 
  sanding. 
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 
        AM
    Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
Paint Recommendations

Thanks to everyone who responded. 

 
Bill, I will be emailing you further off 
list.
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Bill Vander Werf 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing 
  List' 
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 
  PM
      Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  
  I would 
  recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer 
  surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer 
  surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the 
  elements, even stored in a garage can…not can…WILL lead to rust later. 
  
   
  I would 
  recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill 
  capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the 
  dinosaur family.
   
  Basecoat 
  clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over 
  anything the factory used “back in the day” but it is easier for a 
  novice to use and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other 
  single stage metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. 
  Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat 
  clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event that 
  something might happen to your baby.
   
  I sell PPG 
  paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of 
  paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will 
  make you happy.
   
  I would be 
  glad to talk more offline with you if you want to email me 
  directly.  
   
  Bill 
  Vander 
  Werf
   
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   
   
  -Original 
  Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry 
  ShouseSent: Monday, 
  June 06, 2005 12:50 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
   
  
  I'd like to 
  poll the list members concerning their choice in paints for their 
  Chevelle

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[suprsprt72]

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/

  - Original Message - check out the 
  link    suprsprt72
  From: 
  Trooper 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 
PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy 
  primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just 
  clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An 
  epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish the 
  project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body work 
  over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS porous, 
  will absorb water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen VariPrime 
  start to rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the 
  car.
   
  Trooper
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Gene's General Restoration 
Parts 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 
AM
    Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
Recommendations

While epoxy is good it requires metal treating 
whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it 
has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, 
Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't 
like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when 
block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't.
 
 On the other hand, epoxy is good on 
undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon 
as the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 
      AM
      Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  Thanks to everyone who responded. 
  
   
  Bill, I will be emailing you further off 
  list.
   
  Larry
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Bill 
Vander Werf 
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing 
List' 
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 
    PM
    Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body 
Paint Recommendations


I would 
recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer 
surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer 
surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the 
elements, even stored in a garage can…not can…WILL lead to rust later. 

 
I would 
recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill 
capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the 
dinosaur family.
 
Basecoat 
clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything 
the factory used “back in the day” but it is easier for a novice to use 
and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage 
metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat 
clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat 
is also much easier to spot repair in the event that something might 
happen to your baby.
 
I sell PPG 
paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of 
paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will make 
you happy.
 
I would be glad 
to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly.  

 
Bill 
Vander 
Werf
 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
-Original 
Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry 
ShouseSent: Monday, 
June 06, 2005 12:50 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
Recommendations
 

I'd like to 
poll the list members concerning their choice in paints for their 
Chevelles. More specifically, did you use enamel, lacquer, base 
/top coat system, etc.

 

Also advice on 
what to look for or avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a 
ways off before my 66 is ready for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, 
I'd like to come up with a plan.

 

Thanks 
Everyone,

 

Larry 
Shouse 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Trooper]

Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer 
and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just clean, oil 
free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An epoxy primer is 
the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish the project, need a 
water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body work over the primer. 
Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS porous, will absorb water 
and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen VariPrime start to rust in 
about a week in places where guys have touch the car.
 
Trooper

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Gene's General Restoration 
  Parts 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  While epoxy is good it requires metal treating 
  whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it has 
  a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, Vari-Prime 
  is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't like the PPG 
  self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when block sanding and 
  the Vari-Prime doesn't.
   
   On the other hand, epoxy is good on 
  undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon 
  as the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. 
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 
AM
    Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
Recommendations

Thanks to everyone who responded. 
 
Bill, I will be emailing you further off 
list.
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Bill 
  Vander Werf 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 
      PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Paint Recommendations
  
  
  I would recommend 
  using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even 
  body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and 
  will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a 
  garage can…not can…WILL lead to rust later. 
   
  I would recommend 
  a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and 
  durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur 
  family.
   
  Basecoat 
  clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything 
  the factory used “back in the day” but it is easier for a novice to use 
  and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics 
  are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems 
  make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier 
  to spot repair in the event that something might happen to your 
  baby.
   
  I sell PPG paints 
  so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has 
  done their homework and can offer you products that will make you 
  happy.
   
  I would be glad 
  to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly.  
  
   
  Bill 
  Vander 
  Werf
   
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   
   
  -Original 
  Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50 
  PMTo: Chevelle 
  ListSubject: 
  [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations
   
  
  I'd like to poll 
  the list members concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. 
  More specifically, did you use enamel, lacquer, base /top coat 
  system, etc.
  
   
  
  Also advice on 
  what to look for or avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways 
  off before my 66 is ready for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd 
  like to come up with a plan.
  
   
  
  Thanks 
  Everyone,
  
   
  
  Larry 
  Shouse 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Gene's General Restoration Parts]

While epoxy is good it requires metal treating 
whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it has a 
longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, Vari-Prime is 
the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't like the PPG self 
etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when block sanding and the 
Vari-Prime doesn't.
 
 On the other hand, epoxy is good on 
undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon as 
the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 
AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  Thanks to everyone who responded. 
   
  Bill, I will be emailing you further off 
  list.
   
  Larry
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Bill 
Vander Werf 
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 
    PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
Recommendations


I would recommend 
using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even 
body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and 
will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a 
garage can…not can…WILL lead to rust later. 
 
I would recommend a 
2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and 
durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur 
family.
 
Basecoat clearcoat 
systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything the factory 
used “back in the day” but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice 
paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more 
difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting 
metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair 
in the event that something might happen to your baby.
 
I sell PPG paints 
so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done 
their homework and can offer you products that will make you 
happy.
 
I would be glad to 
talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly.  

 
Bill 
Vander 
Werf
 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
-Original 
Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50 
PMTo: Chevelle 
ListSubject: 
[Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations
 

I'd like to poll the list 
members concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More 
specifically, did you use enamel, lacquer, base /top coat system, 
etc.

 

Also advice on what to look for 
or avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways off before my 66 is 
ready for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd like to come up with a 
plan.

 

Thanks 
Everyone,

 

Larry 
Shouse 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Larry Shouse]

Thanks to everyone who responded. 
 
Bill, I will be emailing you further off 
list.
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Bill Vander 
  Werf 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  
  I would recommend 
  using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even body 
  filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and will 
  hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a garage 
  can…not can…WILL lead to rust later. 
   
  I would recommend a 2 
  part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and 
  durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur 
  family.
   
  Basecoat clearcoat 
  systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything the factory 
  used “back in the day” but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice 
  paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more difficult 
  to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics 
  even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event 
  that something might happen to your baby.
   
  I sell PPG paints so 
  my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done their 
  homework and can offer you products that will make you 
happy.
   
  I would be glad to 
  talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly.  
  
   
  Bill Vander Werf
   
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   
   
  -Original 
  Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50 
  PMTo: Chevelle 
  ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] 
  Body Paint Recommendations
   
  
  I'd like to poll the list members 
  concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More specifically, did 
  you use enamel, lacquer, base /top coat system, 
  etc.
  
   
  
  Also advice on what to look for or 
  avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways off before my 66 is 
  ready for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd like to come up with a 
  plan.
  
   
  
  Thanks 
  Everyone,
  
   
  
  Larry 
  Shouse 

RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Bill Vander Werf]

I would recommend using an epoxy primer on
all parts before using a primer surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is
waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not
sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a garage can…not can…WILL
lead to rust later. 

 

I would recommend a 2 part primer, any
brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic
lacquer is now in the dinosaur family.

 

Basecoat clearcoat systems will not only
give you a superior finish over anything the factory used “back in the
day” but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice paint job.
Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more difficult to get
metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy.
Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event that
something might happen to your baby.

 

I sell PPG paints so my loyalty is with
them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done their homework and can
offer you products that will make you happy.

 

I would be glad to talk more offline with
you if you want to email me directly.  

 

Bill Vander Werf

 

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 

 

-Original Message-
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50
PM
To: Chevelle List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body
Paint Recommendations

 



I'd like to poll the list members
concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More specifically, did
you use enamel, lacquer, base /top coat system, etc.





 





Also advice on what to look for or
avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways off before my 66 is ready
for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd like to come up with a plan.





 





Thanks Everyone,





 





Larry Shouse 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[C8NDYJ]

Use a clear coat call standox and u won't believe your 
eyes

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations

[Gene's General Restoration Parts]

Base coat clear coat allows you to sand and buff 
the final finish and is much more durable. PPG DBU works good.
 
As for primers I have had good luck with DuPont 
Vari Prime on bare metal and for a high build primer use a two part primer. I 
don't know if duPont still makes Uro-Prime. PPG K-36 is a good substitute if not 
and it use to be cheaper too.
 
Gene

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 11:50 
AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint 
  Recommendations
  
  I'd like to poll the list members concerning 
  their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More specifically, did you use 
  enamel, lacquer, base /top coat system, etc.
   
  Also advice on what to look for or avoid in 
  paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways off before my 66 is ready for 
  paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd like to come up with a 
  plan.
   
  Thanks Everyone,
   
  Larry 
Shouse 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Off

[Copocloner]

i used two 6ft lenth of chain and two comealongs, with my rathers over head 
once up i slide the frame out and split the weight with a good set of saw 
horse's, i remove the front clip first, i put two 8ft 4by 4s over my rathers to 
spread the load on top. it stay there three months no problems, 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Off

[Mike Holleman]

I just did a frameoff on a 67 Vette. I built a box for the 
frame out of 2 x 12s and short 4 x 4s for legs and heavy casters. It worked 
great and only took maybe an hour to build. Now that the car is finished I 
unbolted it and used the wood for other purposes.
Mike

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dan 
  McIntosh 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 8:02 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body 
  Off
  
  If your handy with a welder, you can build a body 
  dolly fairly easily.  
   
  Dan McIntosh1963 Impala SS 
  ConvertibleStreet Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Ryan 
Langstraat 
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 

Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 11:08 
PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Off

I was just wondering if any of you guys had any 
good ideas on how to move around the body after pulling the frame.  I 
need to transport it to another town and am not sure how i want to go about 
getting it on/off the trailer.  Any help is greatly appreciated.  
Thanks
 
Ryan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Off

[Dan McIntosh]

If your handy with a welder, you can build a body 
dolly fairly easily.  
 
Dan McIntosh1963 Impala SS 
ConvertibleStreet Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ryan 
  Langstraat 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 11:08 
  PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Off
  
  I was just wondering if any of you guys had any 
  good ideas on how to move around the body after pulling the frame.  I 
  need to transport it to another town and am not sure how i want to go about 
  getting it on/off the trailer.  Any help is greatly appreciated.  
  Thanks
   
  Ryan

RE: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

[Dale]

I’m sure someone here has some
plans for one but I’d like to as a favor.  If you haven’t started
sanding yet, once you get it partially apart I’d like a photo or two of
the panel between the rear cove and the lower lip of the trunk on each side by
the tail lamp housings.  I’m looking for the satin black paint separation
line and the body color – like those here: http://www.chevelleinfo.com/body/trunk/trunk.htm
.  If this area is original (hasn’t been painted before) if you’d
also include the body date and assembly plant and whether it’s a SS, Malibu, 300 Deluxe, or
300.  I’m doing research on 67 Chevelles and this is one of the areas I’m
interested in right now.

 

Thank you.

 



Dale McIntosh

67 El Camino

1967 Chevelle
Facts CD in progress

ACES #1709/TC
Gold #92











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Tibbits
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2005
2:06 PM
To: The
 Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] body
rotisserie



 



Does anybody have the plans for a body rotisserie. I am
restoring a 67 Chevelle.





Thanks Mark

Re: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

[Dan McIntosh]

Ya I was kinda hoping to find someone selling one 
for that price and save all the fabrication for the car itself.
 
Nice site, if I cannot find one for sale, I'll copy 
yours :-)
 
Dan McIntosh1962 ImpalaStreet Metal 
Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com
 
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Michael Pell 
  To: ChevelleList 
  Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2004 8:38 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] body 
  rotisserie
  I built my own for just over $200, and that was all brand new 
  pieces,ton of grade 8 bolts, etc.   With a welder and maybe some 
  scrap, youcould do it for much less.Then I sold it for $400.  
  :-)And it was quite easy to build, and stable.Here's all the info 
  I have left.http://www.ProStreetCar.com/body_rotisserie.htmlOther 
  Rotisseries on the 'net:http://www.mgbexperience.com/rotator/http://www.sierrasolutions.biz/carotator.htmlGood 
  luck,  it's WELL worth the effort.Mike--  Check 
  out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com  
  TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com  
  Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377  Hoosier 
  State Chevelle Assoc (www.IndianaChevelles.com) 
  #6

Re: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

[Z16CHEVELLEGUY]

whoops didn't see mikes email until after i sent this 
 Larry (Z)

Re: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

[Z16CHEVELLEGUY]

 Body Rotisserie 
here you go 
 Larry (Z)

Re: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

[Dan McIntosh]

Does anyone have these plans on file?
 
Dan McIntosh1962 ImpalaStreet Metal 
Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Trooper 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 4:59 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] body 
  rotisserie
  I built my own using some of Mike Pell's plans and some of my 
  own mods (built mine quite a bit stronger than his). Jim, I would 
  love to see how you integrated hydraulics into yours. The onlyproblem with 
  mine is lifting it to the levels I want. I was going to use acable looped 
  over the vertical end with a crank hoist on each 
  end.Trooper- Original Message - From: "John Nasta" 
  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: 
  "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Sent: 
  Friday, November 12, 2004 9:07 PMSubject: RE: [Chevelle-list] body 
  rotisserie> Mike Pell has (or had) some plans for building your 
  own. Seemed likepeople> who did it were happy with their 
  results.>> John Nasta>>>> 
  -Original Message-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dan McIntosh> 
  Sent: Friday, November 12, 2004 8:34 PM> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
  impala list> Subject: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie>> I 
  know, I spelled it wrong.>> Does anyone know where to get one of 
  these for a good price?>> Thank you.>> Dan 
  McIntosh> 1962 Impala> Street Metal Fabrications> http://www.lowriderimpala.com>>>

Re: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

[Trooper]

I built my own using some of Mike Pell's plans and some of my own mods (
built mine quite a bit stronger than his).
 Jim, I would love to see how you integrated hydraulics into yours. The only
problem with mine is lifting it to the levels I want. I was going to use a
cable looped over the vertical end with a crank hoist on each end.

Trooper

- Original Message - 
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2004 9:07 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie


> Mike Pell has (or had) some plans for building your own. Seemed like
people
> who did it were happy with their results.
>
> John Nasta
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
> Sent: Friday, November 12, 2004 8:34 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; impala list
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie
>
> I know, I spelled it wrong.
>
> Does anyone know where to get one of these for a good price?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Dan McIntosh
> 1962 Impala
> Street Metal Fabrications
> http://www.lowriderimpala.com
>
>
>

RE: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

[John Nasta]

Mike Pell
has (or had) some plans for building your own. Seemed like people who did it
were happy with their results.

 

John Nasta

 

 

 

-Original
Message-
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On
Behalf Of Dan McIntosh
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2004
8:34 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED];
impala list
Subject: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

 

I know,
I spelled it wrong.

 

Does
anyone know where to get one of these for a good price?

 

Thank
you.

 

Dan
McIntosh
1962 Impala
Street Metal Fabrications
http://www.lowriderimpala.com

 

 

RE: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie

[Jim Buckingham]

Dan,
I built mine for about 250 in steel and hyd cyl.
I have pictures someplace.
Jim Buckingham
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Dan McIntosh)
Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,"impala list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Chevelle-list] body rotisserie
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2004 20:34:16 -0500
I know, I spelled it wrong.
Does anyone know where to get one of these for a good price?
Thank you.
Dan McIntosh
1962 Impala
Street Metal Fabrications
http://www.lowriderimpala.com

RE: [Chevelle-list] Body back on frame !

[hansedlund]

herb, you have done a great job on your Elky (not only the firewall). Thanks for the 
idea. first I will lift the body from the fram again and paint the underside with 
POR15.

Hans 



"If you go to this link: http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/El_Camino_Body.htm
and then scroll down about 1/4 of the way, you'll see a picture of how my
firewall was smoothed.  Maybe it will give you some ideas.

Herb Lumpp"

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body back on frame !

[Slate1994]

alittle fill goes a long way to clean up the firewall i do every car i build, most of the holes you need to keep for your insulation inside but you can straighten up most of it,  the right side  and top are  your main concern. has it is most visible, the truck looks nice, good luck  Jim

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body back on frame !

[TC]

NICE WORK !!!
Itsa  BEAUTY!!
- Original Message - 
From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 11:18 AM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body back on frame !


> Hi Hans,
>
> If you go to this link:
http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/El_Camino_Body.htm
> and then scroll down about 1/4 of the way, you'll see a picture of how my
> firewall was smoothed.  Maybe it will give you some ideas.
>
> Herb Lumpp
> http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:14 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body back on frame !
>
>
> Hi
>
> Last weekeend i finally got the bofy back on the frame, I spend the Sunday
> to clean everything up a little bit.
>
> You will the latest status her
> http://public.fotki.com/eldoradoconv/el_camino/page3.html
>
> I almost satisfied with the work, but would like to get a better finish o
> the firewall. any ideas? Todays status
> http://public.fotki.com/eldoradoconv/el_camino/oct_10_2004_045.html
> I am not aiming for show quality but.
>
> Hans
>
>
>
>

RE: [Chevelle-list] Body back on frame !

[Herb Lumpp]

Hi Hans,

If you go to this link: http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/El_Camino_Body.htm
and then scroll down about 1/4 of the way, you'll see a picture of how my
firewall was smoothed.  Maybe it will give you some ideas.

Herb Lumpp
http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body back on frame !


Hi

Last weekeend i finally got the bofy back on the frame, I spend the Sunday
to clean everything up a little bit.

You will the latest status her
http://public.fotki.com/eldoradoconv/el_camino/page3.html

I almost satisfied with the work, but would like to get a better finish o
the firewall. any ideas? Todays status
http://public.fotki.com/eldoradoconv/el_camino/oct_10_2004_045.html
I am not aiming for show quality but.

Hans

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Shop

[Todd Gatesh]

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 5:37 
  PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Shop
  
  Does anyone have any 
  recommendations for a good Body Shop in the Phoenix area?
   
   
   
  Nick Sandoval of Custom & Performance Paint 
  in Chandler, Arizona.
   
  I have known Nick Sandoval for 20 
  years.   He started painting all of our high school hot rods in the 
  auto shop paint booth at Marco de Niza High back in the early 
  80's.  He is very, very good.  I'm not sure if he still owns the 
  above shop however, you should be able to track him down.   He is 
  very well known in the Phoenix area and has been written about in car 
  magazines.
   
  Todd Gatesh
  Eagle, 
Idaho.

RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Shop

[Herb Lumpp]

http://www.cobblersshop.com/
 
Tell him I sent you.
Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 7:37 
  PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: 
  [Chevelle-list] Body Shop
  Does anyone have any 
  recommendations for a good Body Shop in the Phoenix 
area?

RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Shop

[Brad Waller]

Title: Message




What do you mean 
by "in the area" and how good a job do you want?  I don't know if Herb is 
still on the list, but Herb Lumpp's '66 El Camino was done at The Cobblers Shop 
in Apache Junction http://www.cobblersshop.com/
Herb's car has won 
lots of awards and been in a few magazines.
Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed   | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 
BFG R1'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes  | 
275/40/17 Kumho MX

  
  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 4:37 
  PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: 
  [Chevelle-list] Body Shop
  Does anyone have any 
  recommendations for a good Body Shop in the Phoenix 
area?

Re: [Chevelle-list] body

[FishermanRick43]

There's a couple of places here in Ohio , in Columbus and Cincinnati .
I beleive there called American Metal Cleaners .

Re: [Chevelle-list] body

[Mark Tibbits]

Topeka Kansas

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 4:58 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] body
  
  Where do you live ?
   
   
  Rick

Re: [Chevelle-list] body

[mike f]

I don't know if they use acid but the place where I
had my hood, trunk lid, front quarters done was in Ft.
Worth called "Chemical Environmental Strip" as I
recall. 

mike fry

--- Mark Tibbits <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I am restoring a 67 Chevelle and I am looking for a
> place to have the body acid dipped. Does anybody
> know where I can get that done. 




__
Do you Yahoo!?
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 

Re: [Chevelle-list] body

[FishermanRick43]

Where do you live ?
 
 Rick

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF

[Krister Meister]

Thank you Dave!

Krister


   
 
  "Dave Benjamin"  
 
  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>   To:   "The Chevelle 
Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>   
  Sent by:cc:   (bcc: Krister 
Meister/PBU/Nsk-Corp) 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Fax to: 
  
  evelles.net         Subject:  Re: [Chevelle-list] 
Body OFF
   
 
   
 
  02/23/2004 11:21 PM  
 
  Please respond to The
 
  Chevelle Mailing List
 
   
 
   
 




I used the big block of wood just on the back floor brace first then I did
the front floor brace. The balance point of the body is in front of the
back
tires  up further from were I have the 4 X 4.

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My web site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/


- Original Message -
From: "Krister Meister" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF







Dave,

How did you raise the body off the frame enough to slip the 4 X 4's between
the frame and the body?  Also with the 4 X 4 just in front of the rear
wheel well, I'm wondering how much balance there was - a little weight on
the front  4 X 4 or adequate as to keep the body from tipping off the back?

Krister Meister
Bloomingdale, IL
'66 SS #'s matching





I Removed the body from the frame on the  1968 chevelle I am doing right
now. There was questions on how to do it before  so I took some step by
step pictures. The only tools used are heavy duty jack  stands, 4x4 posts,
some other wood, 3 ton floor jack and taking your time doing  it.When done
I also tie the 4x4 together. I only have a double  garage.

If wanting to see the pictures they are on  the 1968 chevelle restoration
under frame.

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My web  site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF

[mike f]

Here is what I did. I used 4x4's inside the frame
rails to support the body. Then I lowered the frame
(takes several Jacks to do this). Then with the frame
down, I used longer 4x4's and blocked the body on the
outsides of the frame and dragged the frame out from
under the car. viola!
Mike fry
texas
--- Dave Benjamin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I used the big block of wood just on the back floor
> brace first then I did
> the front floor brace. The balance point of the body
> is in front of the back
> tires  up further from were I have the 4 X 4.
> 
> Dave
> Ingersoll,Ontario
> My web site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Krister Meister" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 6:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dave,
> 
> How did you raise the body off the frame enough to
> slip the 4 X 4's between
> the frame and the body?  Also with the 4 X 4 just in
> front of the rear
> wheel well, I'm wondering how much balance there was
> - a little weight on
> the front  4 X 4 or adequate as to keep the body
> from tipping off the back?
> 
> Krister Meister
> Bloomingdale, IL
> '66 SS #'s matching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Removed the body from the frame on the  1968
> chevelle I am doing right
> now. There was questions on how to do it before  so
> I took some step by
> step pictures. The only tools used are heavy duty
> jack  stands, 4x4 posts,
> some other wood, 3 ton floor jack and taking your
> time doing  it.When done
> I also tie the 4x4 together. I only have a double 
> garage.
> 
> If wanting to see the pictures they are on  the 1968
> chevelle restoration
> under frame.
> 
> Dave
> Ingersoll,Ontario
> My web  site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


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Re: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF

[Dave Benjamin]

I used the big block of wood just on the back floor brace first then I did
the front floor brace. The balance point of the body is in front of the back
tires  up further from were I have the 4 X 4.

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My web site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/


- Original Message - 
From: "Krister Meister" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF







Dave,

How did you raise the body off the frame enough to slip the 4 X 4's between
the frame and the body?  Also with the 4 X 4 just in front of the rear
wheel well, I'm wondering how much balance there was - a little weight on
the front  4 X 4 or adequate as to keep the body from tipping off the back?

Krister Meister
Bloomingdale, IL
'66 SS #'s matching





I Removed the body from the frame on the  1968 chevelle I am doing right
now. There was questions on how to do it before  so I took some step by
step pictures. The only tools used are heavy duty jack  stands, 4x4 posts,
some other wood, 3 ton floor jack and taking your time doing  it.When done
I also tie the 4x4 together. I only have a double  garage.

If wanting to see the pictures they are on  the 1968 chevelle restoration
under frame.

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My web  site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF

[Krister Meister]

Dave,

How did you raise the body off the frame enough to slip the 4 X 4's between
the frame and the body?  Also with the 4 X 4 just in front of the rear
wheel well, I'm wondering how much balance there was - a little weight on
the front  4 X 4 or adequate as to keep the body from tipping off the back?

Krister Meister
Bloomingdale, IL
'66 SS #'s matching





I Removed the body from the frame on the  1968 chevelle I am doing right
now. There was questions on how to do it before  so I took some step by
step pictures. The only tools used are heavy duty jack  stands, 4x4 posts,
some other wood, 3 ton floor jack and taking your time doing  it.When done
I also tie the 4x4 together. I only have a double  garage.

If wanting to see the pictures they are on  the 1968 chevelle restoration
under frame.

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My web  site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF

[RMilkiewicz]

That's exactly how I 
did my '66 Dave. It sure was scary till I got my dolly under the body. I had 6 
guys help me put it back on. It took 2 minutes to put on and all day to take it 
off by myself. What an experience that was.
Rich

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dave Benjamin 

  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 10:10 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body OFF
  
  I Removed the body from the frame on the 
  1968 chevelle I am doing right now. There was questions on how to do it before 
  so I took some step by step pictures. The only tools used are heavy duty jack 
  stands, 4x4 posts, some other wood, 3 ton floor jack and taking your time 
  doing it.When done I also tie the 4x4 together. I only have a double 
  garage.
   
  If wanting to see the pictures they are 
  on the 1968 chevelle restoration under frame.
   
  DaveIngersoll,OntarioMy web 
  site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/
   
   

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart

[Matthew Post]

Thanks for all the responses.  I talked to a couple of body shops and it 
sounds like they all make their own.  I like the idea of just having 
someone make one.  Since I'm not in the business of restoring cars, there's 
probably no point to paying so much for one.

-Matt

At 08:48 AM 10/18/2003 -0400, you wrote:
If all your looking to do is be able to move it around the garage I can send
you pictures of the one I built from 2x6 and 4x4's. I had mine acid dipped.
If you want to be able to flip it to work on, mine won't work. I know a guy
who bought all the steel at a scrap yard, then took plans to a welder and
had one made.
Rich
- Original Message -
From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 2:57 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart
> I'm looking to pull the body off the frame on my '69 in the coming
> months.  I was thinking that the easiest and safest way for me to have the
> body in my garage would be on a body cart.  It would make it easy to move
> the body around the garage and maybe transport the body on it.  There's a
> company called accessible systems that I found on Team Chevelle that sells
> these and other cool stuff.  Here's the
> link:  http://www.accessiblesystems.com/
>
> The only problem is they are in Tennessee and I'm in California making
> freight pretty expensive.  Anyone know where to find one on the west
> coast.  Any other options or opinions (other than making one, since I
can't
> weld to save my life).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Matt
>
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart

[RMilkiewicz]

If all your looking to do is be able to move it around the garage I can send
you pictures of the one I built from 2x6 and 4x4's. I had mine acid dipped.
If you want to be able to flip it to work on, mine won't work. I know a guy
who bought all the steel at a scrap yard, then took plans to a welder and
had one made.
Rich
- Original Message - 
From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 2:57 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart


> I'm looking to pull the body off the frame on my '69 in the coming
> months.  I was thinking that the easiest and safest way for me to have the
> body in my garage would be on a body cart.  It would make it easy to move
> the body around the garage and maybe transport the body on it.  There's a
> company called accessible systems that I found on Team Chevelle that sells
> these and other cool stuff.  Here's the
> link:  http://www.accessiblesystems.com/
>
> The only problem is they are in Tennessee and I'm in California making
> freight pretty expensive.  Anyone know where to find one on the west
> coast.  Any other options or opinions (other than making one, since I
can't
> weld to save my life).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Matt
>
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart

[TC]

NICE JOB!!!
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart


> I made a rotisserie pretty cheap.  It was safe and sturdy.  I highly
> recommend one.
> Here's some pics:
> http://www.prostreetcar.com/body_rotisserie.html
>
> It was really simple to build, and with a welder would be even simpler.
>
>
> Dale McIntosh wrote:
>
> > I'd bet if you took a picture like this to a competent welding shop,
> > they could build you one. A quick search on "body cart" didn't turn up
> > much but maybe other mfgs use a different term.  I'd also check with
> > local body shops that might specialize in frame-off restorations to see
> > what they might recommend.  Gotta be more than a few in California!
> >
> > http://www.accessiblesystems.com/BodyCartbare.htm
> >
> > Dale McIntosh
> >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matthew Post
> > > Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 12:58 PM
> > > To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> > > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm looking to pull the body off the frame on my '69 in the coming
> > > months.  I was thinking that the easiest and safest way for
> > > me to have the
> > > body in my garage would be on a body cart.  It would make it
> > > easy to move
> > > the body around the garage and maybe transport the body on
> > > it.  There's a
> > > company called accessible systems that I found on Team
> > > Chevelle that sells
> > > these and other cool stuff.  Here's the
> > > link:  http://www.accessiblesystems.com/
> > >
> > > The only problem is they are in Tennessee and I'm in
> > > California making
> > > freight pretty expensive.  Anyone know where to find one on the west
> > > coast.  Any other options or opinions (other than making one,
> > > since I can't
> > > weld to save my life).
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > Matt
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
> --
>   Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
>   TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
>   Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
>   Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6
>
>
>
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart

[Michael Pell]

I made a rotisserie pretty cheap.  It was safe and sturdy.  I highly
recommend one.
Here's some pics:
http://www.prostreetcar.com/body_rotisserie.html

It was really simple to build, and with a welder would be even simpler.


Dale McIntosh wrote:

> I'd bet if you took a picture like this to a competent welding shop,
> they could build you one. A quick search on "body cart" didn't turn up
> much but maybe other mfgs use a different term.  I'd also check with
> local body shops that might specialize in frame-off restorations to see
> what they might recommend.  Gotta be more than a few in California!
>
> http://www.accessiblesystems.com/BodyCartbare.htm
>
> Dale McIntosh
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matthew Post
> > Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 12:58 PM
> > To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart
> >
> >
> > I'm looking to pull the body off the frame on my '69 in the coming
> > months.  I was thinking that the easiest and safest way for
> > me to have the
> > body in my garage would be on a body cart.  It would make it
> > easy to move
> > the body around the garage and maybe transport the body on
> > it.  There's a
> > company called accessible systems that I found on Team
> > Chevelle that sells
> > these and other cool stuff.  Here's the
> > link:  http://www.accessiblesystems.com/
> >
> > The only problem is they are in Tennessee and I'm in
> > California making
> > freight pretty expensive.  Anyone know where to find one on the west
> > coast.  Any other options or opinions (other than making one,
> > since I can't
> > weld to save my life).
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Matt
> >
> >
> >

--
  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
  TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
  Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
  Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6

RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart

[jjabuck]

They are not that hard to weld up.  I made one, cost me about 125 dollars
worth of steel.

Jim Buckingham

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Matthew Post
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 2:58 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart


I'm looking to pull the body off the frame on my '69 in the coming
months.  I was thinking that the easiest and safest way for me to have the
body in my garage would be on a body cart.  It would make it easy to move
the body around the garage and maybe transport the body on it.  There's a
company called accessible systems that I found on Team Chevelle that sells
these and other cool stuff.  Here's the
link:  http://www.accessiblesystems.com/

The only problem is they are in Tennessee and I'm in California making
freight pretty expensive.  Anyone know where to find one on the west
coast.  Any other options or opinions (other than making one, since I can't
weld to save my life).

Thanks.

Matt

RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart

[Dale McIntosh]

I'd bet if you took a picture like this to a competent welding shop,
they could build you one. A quick search on "body cart" didn't turn up
much but maybe other mfgs use a different term.  I'd also check with
local body shops that might specialize in frame-off restorations to see
what they might recommend.  Gotta be more than a few in California!

http://www.accessiblesystems.com/BodyCartbare.htm

Dale McIntosh

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matthew Post
> Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 12:58 PM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body Cart
> 
> 
> I'm looking to pull the body off the frame on my '69 in the coming 
> months.  I was thinking that the easiest and safest way for 
> me to have the 
> body in my garage would be on a body cart.  It would make it 
> easy to move 
> the body around the garage and maybe transport the body on 
> it.  There's a 
> company called accessible systems that I found on Team 
> Chevelle that sells 
> these and other cool stuff.  Here's the 
> link:  http://www.accessiblesystems.com/
> 
> The only problem is they are in Tennessee and I'm in 
> California making 
> freight pretty expensive.  Anyone know where to find one on the west 
> coast.  Any other options or opinions (other than making one, 
> since I can't 
> weld to save my life).
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Matt
> 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?

[RMilkiewicz]

I've got some used ones you can have.
Rich
ACES # 05066
- Original Message - 
From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?


: Hi gang,
: 
: Does anyone have any suggestions for a "temporary" fix
: for body mount bushings?  I've temporarily depleted my
: funds for the car, and need a temp fix for some
: missing body mount bushings.  
: 
: 
: Thanks,
: 
: Jim
: '66 Malibu
: 
: __
: Do you Yahoo!?
: SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
: http://sbc.yahoo.com
: 
: -
: To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
: To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?*

[rocky hill]

Jim,

Check around and see if there is a rubber company in
your area, here in downtown Kansas City there is a
company called Hanna Rubber that sells any size and
shape, and thickness of rubber you can think of. If
there is, you can buy what ever thickness of rubber in
about 80-85 durometer, you could in effect make your
own bushings.

Rocky


--- "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi gang,
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a "temporary"
> fix
> for body mount bushings?  I've temporarily depleted
> my
> funds for the car, and need a temp fix for some
> missing body mount bushings.  
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jim
> '66 Malibu
> 
> __
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
> 
>
-
> To Unsubscribe please visit
> www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?

[Batsy74]

Can you eat them? HaHa

- Original Message -
From: "Dave Benjamin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?


> I have seen my friends use hockey pucks. hard rubber, cut a slot in them
and
> bang them in. Yes this sounds to me, to be very crude. ey if it works it
> works.
>
>  Leave it to Canadians find malty uses for a hockey puck.
>
> Dave
> Ingersoll,Ontario
> My web site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 10:45 AM
> Subject: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?
>
>
> > Hi gang,
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions for a "temporary" fix
> > for body mount bushings?  I've temporarily depleted my
> > funds for the car, and need a temp fix for some
> > missing body mount bushings.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> > '66 Malibu
> >
> > __
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > http://sbc.yahoo.com
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



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RE: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?

[J. Brady]

Nice idea!!!  If it can at least get me through till
the Fall, I'm game!

Thanks,

Jim
'66 Malibu



--- John Nasta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I think you should drill a hole through the center
> before you try to cut a
> slot. Otherwise it is likely to break in half.
> 
> John Nasta
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf
> Of Dave Benjamin
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 12:16 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?
> 
> I have seen my friends use hockey pucks. hard
> rubber, cut a slot in them and
> bang them in. Yes this sounds to me, to be very
> crude. ey if it works it
> works.
> 
>  Leave it to Canadians find malty uses for a hockey
> puck.
> 
> Dave
> Ingersoll,Ontario
> My web site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 10:45 AM
> Subject: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?
> 
> 
> > Hi gang,
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions for a "temporary"
> fix
> > for body mount bushings?  I've temporarily
> depleted my
> > funds for the car, and need a temp fix for some
> > missing body mount bushings.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> > '66 Malibu
> >
> > __
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > http://sbc.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
-
> > To Unsubscribe please visit
> www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
>
-
> To Unsubscribe please visit
> www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
>
-
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> To start a new topic, send mail to:
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RE: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?

[John Nasta]

I think you should drill a hole through the center before you try to cut a
slot. Otherwise it is likely to break in half.

John Nasta



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Benjamin
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 12:16 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?

I have seen my friends use hockey pucks. hard rubber, cut a slot in them and
bang them in. Yes this sounds to me, to be very crude. ey if it works it
works.

 Leave it to Canadians find malty uses for a hockey puck.

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My web site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

- Original Message -
From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?


> Hi gang,
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a "temporary" fix
> for body mount bushings?  I've temporarily depleted my
> funds for the car, and need a temp fix for some
> missing body mount bushings.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> '66 Malibu
>
> __
> Do you Yahoo!?
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Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?

[Dave Benjamin]

I have seen my friends use hockey pucks. hard rubber, cut a slot in them and
bang them in. Yes this sounds to me, to be very crude. ey if it works it
works.

 Leave it to Canadians find malty uses for a hockey puck.

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My web site:   http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

- Original Message -
From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] body mount suggestions?


> Hi gang,
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a "temporary" fix
> for body mount bushings?  I've temporarily depleted my
> funds for the car, and need a temp fix for some
> missing body mount bushings.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> '66 Malibu
>
> __
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RE: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars

[John Nasta]

Thanks Dale. I'll see if I can find out more tomorrow.

John Nasta



-Original Message-

I don't think so - not for a 67 SS hardtop anyway.  When I did mine a
few years ago, there were 8-and 10-bushing kits (if memory serves) and a
convertible was the deciding factor.  As it turned out, they were out of
the 8-bushing kits so I bought the 10 and tossed the remaining 2.  I
never heard of "body mount supplements" either. (?)

Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS/67 Elky


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of John Nasta
> Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 5:41 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars
>
>
> Thanks Kent. These bushings are specifically described as
> being for big block cars, so I have to wonder if they are the
> same thing. The convertible body mount kits come with the
> extra bushings that a convertible needs. Maybe if a coupe got
> a big block, then it also needed the extra bushings?
>
> John Nasta



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RE: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars

[Dale McIntosh]

I don't think so - not for a 67 SS hardtop anyway.  When I did mine a
few years ago, there were 8-and 10-bushing kits (if memory serves) and a
convertible was the deciding factor.  As it turned out, they were out of
the 8-bushing kits so I bought the 10 and tossed the remaining 2.  I
never heard of "body mount supplements" either. (?)

Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS/67 Elky


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of John Nasta
> Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 5:41 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars
> 
> 
> Thanks Kent. These bushings are specifically described as 
> being for big block cars, so I have to wonder if they are the 
> same thing. The convertible body mount kits come with the 
> extra bushings that a convertible needs. Maybe if a coupe got 
> a big block, then it also needed the extra bushings?
> 
> John Nasta
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kent Lewis
> Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 6:28 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars
> 
> John,
> 
>   AFAIK the two additional body mount bushings were used with 
> the convertibles only.  Did not have anything to do with 
> engine size.  On my '68 the additional bushings were mounted 
> slightly "inboard" of the front body bushings.  If you crawl 
> under the car, you will see the extra hole drilled in the 
> frame on each side.
> 
> Kent
> '68 Malibu  ZZ502/502 :)
> ACES #5102
> 
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Chevelle List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 1:39 PM
> Subject: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars
> 
> 
> > As some of you know, there are "body mount supplements" (and 
> > additional
> set
> > of 2 upper & 2 lower bushings) that were used by some if 
> the big block 
> > A-body cars from 1965-67 and 68-72 depending on engine size. Does 
> > anybody know specifically which engine sizes were equipped with the 
> > additional bushings, and where the bushings go?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John Nasta
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> 
> 
> -
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> 
> 
> -
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> 


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RE: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars

[John Nasta]

Thanks Kent. These bushings are specifically described as being for big
block cars, so I have to wonder if they are the same thing. The convertible
body mount kits come with the extra bushings that a convertible needs. Maybe
if a coupe got a big block, then it also needed the extra bushings?

John Nasta



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kent Lewis
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 6:28 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars

John,

  AFAIK the two additional body mount bushings were used with the
convertibles only.  Did not have anything to do with engine size.  On my '68
the additional bushings were mounted slightly "inboard" of the front body
bushings.  If you crawl under the car, you will see the extra hole drilled
in the frame on each side.

Kent
'68 Malibu  ZZ502/502 :)
ACES #5102


- Original Message -
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Chevelle List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 1:39 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars


> As some of you know, there are "body mount supplements" (and additional
set
> of 2 upper & 2 lower bushings) that were used by some if the big block
> A-body cars from 1965-67 and 68-72 depending on engine size. Does anybody
> know specifically which engine sizes were equipped with the additional
> bushings, and where the bushings go?
>
> Thanks,
> John Nasta
>
>
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>


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Re: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars

[Kent Lewis]

John,

  AFAIK the two additional body mount bushings were used with the
convertibles only.  Did not have anything to do with engine size.  On my '68
the additional bushings were mounted slightly "inboard" of the front body
bushings.  If you crawl under the car, you will see the extra hole drilled
in the frame on each side.

Kent
'68 Malibu  ZZ502/502 :)
ACES #5102


- Original Message -
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Chevelle List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 1:39 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] body mount supplements for big block cars


> As some of you know, there are "body mount supplements" (and additional
set
> of 2 upper & 2 lower bushings) that were used by some if the big block
> A-body cars from 1965-67 and 68-72 depending on engine size. Does anybody
> know specifically which engine sizes were equipped with the additional
> bushings, and where the bushings go?
>
> Thanks,
> John Nasta
>
>
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>


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Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff

[TronDD]

Well the budget is tight and I'm buying them as the money comes in.  I hope to be up 
to 3 tires by next fall.

Tim.
Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle (Now I'll have one tire for drivin' and one for steerin'.  
Tough to balance, though)

On Thu, 12 Dec 2002 22:04:20 -0500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (Dan McIntosh) wrote:

> Tim, 
> Both tires? Just what kinda chevy ya got there
> I thought them there cars done had 4 tires on em. LOL.
> 
> Dan McIntosh
> 64 Impala SS
> 
> 
> 
>  - Original Message - 
> From: "TronDD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 9:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff
> 
> 
> " Tim.
> > Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle (Soon to be burning both tires at once)"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff

[Dan McIntosh]

Tim, 
Both tires? Just what kinda chevy ya got there
I thought them there cars done had 4 tires on em. LOL.

Dan McIntosh
64 Impala SS



 - Original Message - 
From: "TronDD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff


" Tim.
> Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle (Soon to be burning both tires at once)"




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Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff

[TronDD]

Is there an echo in here or did my message not go through?

TESTING...ing...ing...

Tim.
Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle (Soon to be burning both tires at once)

On Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:50:51 -0500
"Bob Hiller -1" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Step 1, get a large hammer.
> Step 2, hit dents that stick out until they are going in.
> Step 3, do whatever you usually do for dents that are going in.
> Process complete.
> 
> Sorry, I couldn't resist.
> 
> Bob Hiller
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 12:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff
> 
> 
> > In a message dated 12/10/2002 5:25:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > > Hey im doing the body work on my 72 chevelle by myself, just kind of
> learning
> > > as i go. im doing it for my senior project at school. I was wondering if
> you
> > > guys ahve any suggestions about dents that stick out
> > > instead of going in,
> > > whats the best way to get rid of those?
> > IF YOU CAN GET AT THE BACK OF THE DENT- JUST PUT A DOLLEY BEHIND IT AND
> POUND IT FLAT FROM THE OUTSIDE-EITHER WITH A FLAT BODY HAMMER OR A PICK TYPE
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff

[Bob Hiller -1]

Step 1, get a large hammer.
Step 2, hit dents that stick out until they are going in.
Step 3, do whatever you usually do for dents that are going in.
Process complete.

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Bob Hiller

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff


> In a message dated 12/10/2002 5:25:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > Hey im doing the body work on my 72 chevelle by myself, just kind of
learning
> > as i go. im doing it for my senior project at school. I was wondering if
you
> > guys ahve any suggestions about dents that stick out
> > instead of going in,
> > whats the best way to get rid of those?
> IF YOU CAN GET AT THE BACK OF THE DENT- JUST PUT A DOLLEY BEHIND IT AND
POUND IT FLAT FROM THE OUTSIDE-EITHER WITH A FLAT BODY HAMMER OR A PICK TYPE
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>



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Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff

[HarKemAsso]

In a message dated 12/10/2002 5:25:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

> Hey im doing the body work on my 72 chevelle by myself, just kind of learning 
> as i go. im doing it for my senior project at school. I was wondering if you 
> guys ahve any suggestions about dents that stick out 
> instead of going in, 
> whats the best way to get rid of those?
IF YOU CAN GET AT THE BACK OF THE DENT- JUST PUT A DOLLEY BEHIND IT AND POUND IT FLAT 
FROM THE OUTSIDE-EITHER WITH A FLAT BODY HAMMER OR A PICK TYPE

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Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff

[TronDD]

Hit it with a hammer until the dent sticks in, then fix it the normal way.

:)

Tim.
Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle (Anyone even remember me?)

On Tue, 10 Dec 2002 17:25:04 EST
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hey im doing the body work on my 72 chevelle by myself, just kind of learning 
> as i go. im doing it for my senior project at school. I was wondering if you 
> guys ahve any suggestions about dents that stick out instead of going in, 
> whats the best way to get rid of those?
> 
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Stuff

[MICRLASER]

In a message dated 12/10/2002 5:25:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

> Hey im doing the body work on my 72 chevelle by myself, just kind of learning 
> as i go. im doing it for my senior project at school. I was wondering if you 
> guys ahve any suggestions about dents that stick out 
> instead of going in, 
> whats the best way to get rid of those?

Hammer and a dolly is the best way

Tom

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