Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Dennis C.]

Start with the backstay adjuster fully off.  Hang a fairly large weight from 
your main halyard and see where the halyard touches the boom.  Measure aft from 
the goose neck.  Should be 6-12 inches depending on the model boat.  See my 
earlier post subject "30 MKI weather helm - mast rake" for more technical info 
on measuring and setting mast rake.

Do NOT crank your backstay adjuster down 7 inches.  A backstay adjuster is 
supposed to adjust headstay sag, not rake.  Mast rake is a static setting which 
is part of your "dock" tune.  That is, it is done when you set up your rig 
tensions, etc. before you go out on the water.  

Increasing backstay tension will also add some bend to most rigs.  This is not 
to be confused with pre-bend which is also part of your "dock" tune.

Inducing pre-bend and increasing it with bend may actually decrease weather 
helm depending on how your main sail is cut.  If it is cut fairly flat, that 
is, without a lot of draft, then bend will flatten it more.  Flatter sails are 
less prone to create weather helm.  However, if your main is cut full or is 
"bagged out", then bend and pre-bend may do little to flatten it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Curtis 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:55 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
> 
>
>
>How can you tell how many inches of rake you have in the mast? I have a back 
>adjuster that is not hooked up to any thing? Should I pull it down 7 inches?
>
>
>
>
>
>On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 3:45 PM, Don Newman  wrote:
>
>Sail condition and trim have a significant impact on weather helm.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 3:06 PM, Frederick G Street  
>>wrote:
>>
>>Speaking from a practical. rather than theoretical standpoint, my experience 
>>with my previous boat, a 1981 30mkI suggests to me that having the top of the 
>>mast about 8-9” AFT of the gooseneck resulted in a well-balanced boat.
>>>
>>>
>>>I guess your mileage may vary...
>>>
>>>
>>>Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>>S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>>
>>>On Nov 27, 2013, at 1:56 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>>
>>>Aaron,


I'm with you.


Joel

On Wednesday, November 27, 2013, Aaron Rouhi wrote:

Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves 
further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a 
result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to 
move COE forward. Am I wrong?
>>>
>>>
>>>___
>>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>-- 
>>
>>Don Newman
>>C&C 44
>>
>>___
>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
>-- 
>“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
>really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
>
>
>
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>___
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Re: Stus-List Hull numbers for other 35 MkII boats

[Eric Frank]

Dwight,

Cat's Paw is hull #  CCY352400174.  My father bought her used (I think from 
someone in Canada) in 1974.  Would that mean it is a 35 MKII, hull #40, with a 
certification date of January 1974?  If so, I wonder if in fact he bought her 
in 1976 - I'll have to check the old bill of sale when I get home.  Jim Watts 
suggests that CCY means she was built by Calder Building Co. in Arizona - or 
are you saying it could have been Canada?  Anyway, Cat's Paw is another one for 
your list.  In excellent shape, currently on the hard in Mattapoisett, MA.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: dwight veinot 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> C&C built 147 C&C 35 MKII's.
> 
> Lately there seems to have been a lot of 35 MKII owners showing up on this
> list.  My 35 MKII, Alianna, is an absolute delight in so many ways, pretty
> to look at, comfortable in heavy seas, fast, responsive, strong, well
> built...what else can I say.
> 
> If other 35 MKII owners would like to reply with contact information I will
> make a list so we can share some specific stuff about that C&C design in
> particular including points on how each of us make the boat go fast.
> 
> There were only 147 ever built and they are all about 40 years old now so
> please realize that we would be sharing info on an "antique".
> 
> 
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII

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Re: Stus-List Wheel wraps

[Wally Bryant]

You can't get a skin 9.6 long, although I understand that Trojan is 
coming out with a 'Sailor Sized' model.  (However, it'll still be tough 
to rip the foil package open with your teeth.)


Seriously, though.  Put the splits on the rungs of the wheel. When 
lacing up the cover, that's the best place to add a few extra lashes of 
waxed whipping thread.   I don't remember the stitch I used, but think 
it was the basic baseball stitch.


I do really like this cowhide, though.  It's brown, and I give it a good 
saddle soap wash when I think of it.  It looks like I have a teak 
wheel.  These Mexican cows seem to have tough hides.


Wal


you wrote:

So, given a 36" diameter, can you get a skin 9'6" long, or where do you split 
it?

Cheers!



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Re: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs

[Bill Connon]

Wally Bryant wrote:
Well, I still give them a whack, but with a light ball peen hammer, 
and then tighten them down really good.


It might not be as important with these 'CAMP' shaft zincs that I use 
these days. They have an imbedded rounded contact point inside each 
half of the zinc, to maintain a good contact with the shaft that won't 
corrode away. I got them from boatzincs.com. www.campcompany.com


Wal

you wrote:
I’ve seen several instructions that say not to smack them with a 
hammer.  Who do we believe…  I know you want a nice tight fit though.
I give them a whack with a hammer but I back up the other side with an 
8# sledge to absorb the shock.

   Bill
Caprice 1







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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Curtis]

How can you tell how many inches of rake you have in the mast? I have a
back adjuster that is not hooked up to any thing? Should I pull it down 7
inches?



On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 3:45 PM, Don Newman  wrote:

> Sail condition and trim have a significant impact on weather helm.
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 3:06 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:
>
>> Speaking from a practical. rather than theoretical standpoint, my
>> experience with my previous boat, a 1981 30mkI suggests to me that having
>> the top of the mast about 8-9” AFT of the gooseneck resulted in a
>> well-balanced boat.
>>
>> I guess your mileage may vary...
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 1:56 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>
>> Aaron,
>>
>> I'm with you.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 27, 2013, Aaron Rouhi wrote:
>>
>>> Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves
>>> further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a
>>> result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to
>>> move COE forward. Am I wrong?
>>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Don Newman
> C&C 44
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Stus-List Wheel wraps

[Alex Giannelia]

So, given a 36" diameter, can you get a skin 9'6" long, or where do you split 
it?

Cheers!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858
www.airsensing.com

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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dennis C.]

I second that.  Any line with a uni-directional or parallel core is a bitch to 
splice.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Wally Bryant 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 8:40 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> 
>
>Dave - If you do your own splices, Sta-set X can be a challenge. 
>Frankly, I think it's *great* rope, and very strong. I used it for my 
>halyards on my last boat, and recall that after I finished the splices I 
>swore I'd hire somebody next time. I think most riggers don't like it 
>because you can do a splice in some of these newer ropes --that have 
>basic double braid construction -- in minutes, while the linear Vectran 
>core of the Sta-Set X requires a different kind of splice.
>
>Wal
>
>
>you wrote:
>> I agree with the observation about the Sta-set X being stiff. That is 
>> something that I wouldn’t mind changing but the price delta would be the 
>> deciding factor.
>
>
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>___
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Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again

[Alex Giannelia]

Based on old research, there was no real difference between the manufacturing 
annotation between the -1 and -2 so serial no's continued.  Then there was an 
interruption of a few years and they came out with the Rob Ball designed -3.

Cheers!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858
www.airsensing.com


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 05:46:01 -0400
From: "dwight" 
To: ,  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
Message-ID: <789431E9C87546A092EAF22D90C9E6E4@your4dacd0ea75>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Right Ken, 351 altogether, 204 were MKI's and 147 were MKII's.not sure how many 
MKIII's were produced but I think the sequential numbering system changed with 
the first MKIII produced



  _

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton
Sent: November 26, 2013 9:59 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again



I seem to remember they didn't start over at hull 1 with the 35 Mk.2  I think 
they just continued the numbering sequentially from the last 35 Mk.1 built.



Ken H.



On 26 November 2013 15:08, Jim Watts  wrote:

Lee, it looks like you have hull # 252, Mithrandir is #224. I thought they were 
all built in NOL, I don't know why yours would prefix ZCC and theirs CCY...ZCC 
is C&C @ NOL, CCY references Calder Building Co. in Arizona.

I see Dwight has just posted that there were only 147 built, so now I'm not 
sure. Maybe they prefixed the 35-2 hull numbers with 2 so you would have #52? I 
dunno.



On 26 November 2013 10:15, Lee Youngblood 
wrote:

Hi All,

Just how many 35-IIs  did C&C build in 1974?
I know there was something about the different codes but don't remember.

Thanks, Lee

Lee Youngblood
s/v Simplicity in Seattle
1974 C&C 35-II
Hull #ZCC352520374





Bill and Gaynor
Mithrandir
'74 C&C 35 MkII
HIN: CCY352241174



--

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--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 05:52:47 -0400
From: "dwight" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

If you don't run the engine after the oil change the new oil will just sit
in the sump all winter long.best to give her a run and get the new stuff
where it's needed.how long you have to run to achieve that I am not sure but
I change oil for the winter storage before my last trip to the marina, for
me that's about a 20 minute run under power.



  _

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: November 26, 2013 11:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing



I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old oil
out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil?  I have just
been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil circulated.
(Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp



--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot  wrote:

Chuck

Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it is
equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil




Dwight Veinot

Alianna
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

Yeah Dwight,
I guess you are right.  I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine
oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature
before winterizing.
I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase.  I have
a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink, then
the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the manual
bilge pump.  This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the pumps and
will use again next year.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _


From: "dwight veinot" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM


Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

Chuck

If I remember you have a Universal M4-30.  Is yours your water cooled and
that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure the t

Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again

[Alex Giannelia]

FWIW, my hull no is 282 according to the mfrs data plate, no stamped number on 
transom, but based on other information I have (May 1974 build date inferred 
from sharing notes with the guy who has a serial no just one away), I believe 
the number would be CCY352820574 as my guess is the Rhode Island factory wasn't 
opened till 1976.

Any comments or corrections?

Also, does anyone know about a blue 35-II that was berthed in WHITBY a few 
years ago?

Cheers!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858
www.airsensing.com

>  Bill and Gaynor
>> Mithrandir
>> '74 C&C 35 MkII
>> HIN: CCY352241174
>>
>
>
> --
>


Lee, it looks like you have hull # 252, Mithrandir is #224. I thought they were 
all built in NOL, I don't know why yours would prefix ZCC and theirs CCY...ZCC 
is C&C @ NOL, CCY references Calder Building Co. in Arizona.

I see Dwight has just posted that there were only 147 built, so now I'm not 
sure. Maybe they prefixed the 35-2 hull numbers with 2 so you would have #52? I 
dunno.


On 26 November 2013 10:15, Lee Youngblood wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Just how many 35-IIs  did C&C build in 1974?
> I know there was something about the different codes but don't remember.
>
> Thanks, Lee
>
> Lee Youngblood
> s/v Simplicity in Seattle
> 1974 C&C 35-II
> Hull #ZCC352520374
>
>
>
>
>  Bill and Gaynor
>> Mithrandir
>> '74 C&C 35 MkII
>> HIN: CCY352241174
>>
>
>
> --
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 12:18:18 -0800
From: Jim Watts 
To: "Dennis C." , 1 CnC List

Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Dennis, why would you put an insulating material (Tef Gel) between the two
elements that have to have good electrical contact? Seems a little
counterintuitive to me.

I stopped whacking the zincs with a hammer a few years ago and haven't had
any problems with zincs not staying on/bonded.
One extra step I do is to paint the "bridge" between the two halves of the
zinc with bottom paint so that the thinnest part of the zinc, where the
fasteners go through, is protected from attack. If that bridge goes the
zinc falls off the shaft.
Also, I keep the zincs far enough away from the strut so that I have enough
room to get the coupler off the gearbox and the gearbox off the engine. I
had to hire a diver once to move zincs so I could get the gearbox off for
some work.


On 26 November 2013 09:59, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Right or wrong here's how I install shaft zincs on Touche'.
>
>
>1. Use a good brand of zinc with a copper contact.  I like Camp zincs
>2. Use emery cloth to make shaft bright
>3. Apply a small amount of TefGel to the copper contact
>4. Place zinc on shaft forward of the strut.  Leave 1/2 to 1 shaft
>diameter space to allow water to flow into cutless bearing
>5. Tighten the zinc's fasteners evenly.
>6. Rotate shaft until one of the copper contact flats is at the bottom
>7. Whack it firmly with a hammer to set the contact against the
>shaft.  Note: striking upward reduces the side loading on the strut which
>may break the sealant or damage the strut
>8. Rotate shaft 180 degrees and whack the other contact
>9. Tighten the fasteners again
>
> I usually install a second zinc immediately forward of the first and
> rotated 90 degrees.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
>


--
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Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 15:22:55 -0500
From: Bill Bina 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
Message-ID: <5295031f.6030...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

C&C in Canada was designated by manufacturer code CCY *U-N-T-I-L*  C&C
opened a US factory in Rhode Island. From that moment on, Canadian boats
were designated ZCC, and the U.S. built boats were designated CCY. When
that iteration of the C&C company folded, the CCY designation became
available, and is now assigned to someone else.

Bill Bina


On 11/26/2013 3:08 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
> Lee, it looks like you have hull # 252, Mithrandir is #224. I thought
> they were all built in NOL, I don't k

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 One Design

[Paul Baker]

I like it.  Now I just need to find someone rich enough to actually buy 
one, that can afford to race one, and that will let me crew on it.  Do I 
see one in my future?  Not a chance.

Cheers,
Paul

Orange Crush
1974 27 MkII
Sidney, BC


On 27 November 2013 13:22, Edd Schillay > wrote:


I'm sure most of you have seen this by now:

http://dlo9dp2r69urx.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/CC30Interactive.jpg


So what's the word? Love it? Hate it?

Me thinks I hate it . . . .


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website



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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 One Design

[Jack Fitzgerald]

Bill is correct I spent the summer sailing the Vx19 class and it nearly beat to 
death exciting but my C&C 39 always brings me back to the reality of how old 
guys should sail
Jack Fitzgerald
Honey US12788  
C&C 39tm

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 21:42, coltrek  wrote:
> 
> I think if you are under 40, you luv it, over that you want something with a 
> fridge and accoutrements.  I did a race a few years ago on a Melges and had a 
> blast,  but I'm glad to have my 39 to come back to.  We're all old farts.
> Well, most of us. 
> 
> 
> Wild Bill
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Jim Watts  
> Date: 11/27/2013 7:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: 1 CnC List  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 One Design 
> 
> 
> That subject came up a couple of weeks ago, and the builder is present to 
> answer questions. 
> 
> 
>> On 27 November 2013 13:22, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>> I’m sure most of you have seen this by now: 
>> http://dlo9dp2r69urx.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/CC30Interactive.jpg
>> 
>> So what’s the word? Love it? Hate it?
>> 
>> Me thinks I hate it . . . . 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>>  All the best,
>> 
>>  Edd
>> 
>> 
>>  Edd M. Schillay
>>  Starship Enterprise
>>  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>  City Island, NY 
>>  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 One Design

[coltrek]

I think if you are under 40, you luv it, over that you want something with a 
fridge and accoutrements.  I did a race a few years ago on a Melges and had a 
blast,  but I'm glad to have my 39 to come back to.  We're all old farts.
Well, most of us. 


Wild Bill

 Original message 
From: Jim Watts  
Date: 11/27/2013  7:32 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 1 CnC List  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 One Design 
 
That subject came up a couple of weeks ago, and the builder is present to 
answer questions. 


On 27 November 2013 13:22, Edd Schillay  wrote:
I’m sure most of you have seen this by now: 
http://dlo9dp2r69urx.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/CC30Interactive.jpg

So what’s the word? Love it? Hate it?

Me thinks I hate it . . . . 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website


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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Wally Bryant]

Dave - If you do your own splices, Sta-set X can be a challenge. 
Frankly, I think it's *great* rope, and very strong. I used it for my 
halyards on my last boat, and recall that after I finished the splices I 
swore I'd hire somebody next time. I think most riggers don't like it 
because you can do a splice in some of these newer ropes --that have 
basic double braid construction -- in minutes, while the linear Vectran 
core of the Sta-Set X requires a different kind of splice.


Wal

you wrote:

I agree with the observation about the Sta-set X being stiff. That is something 
that I wouldn’t mind changing but the price delta would be the deciding factor.



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Re: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs

[Wally Bryant]

Well, I still give them a whack, but with a light ball peen hammer, and 
then tighten them down really good.


It might not be as important with these 'CAMP' shaft zincs that I use 
these days. They have an imbedded rounded contact point inside each half 
of the zinc, to maintain a good contact with the shaft that won't 
corrode away. I got them from boatzincs.com. www.campcompany.com


Wal

you wrote:

I’ve seen several instructions that say not to smack them with a hammer.  Who 
do we believe…  I know you want a nice tight fit though.



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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Andrew Burton]

I am going to be replacing halyards soon and have decided to indulge in some 
form of Dyneema. With stretchier stuff you set the sail and then when load 
comes on you have to grind on the halyard again another few inches. I like to 
have the main luff tension stay the same when I add vang or honk down on the 
sheet for a straighter leech when beating. And on the few occasions when I race 
I'm even more concerned.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Nov 27, 2013, at 19:16, Dave Godwin  wrote:

> Dennis,
> 
> Interesting. I’m at the New England (soon to be Teufelberger in Feb! Say that 
> 3 times real fast…) web site right now. Their calculator is calling for 11mm 
> (7/16’s) Sta-set X which I currently have for my boat. I’m not seeing a Plus 
> version listed but the calculator also recommends the T-900 in 10mm (3/8’s) 
> for   main and jib halyards.
> 
> I agree with the observation about the Sta-set X being stiff. That is 
> something that I wouldn’t mind changing but the price delta would be the 
> deciding factor. As a cruiser these days, the jib goes up in the Summer and 
> comes down in the Fall. We’ve stopped using the symmetrical spinnaker in our 
> dotage so until we get a new asym, that halyard never gets touched.
> 
> Decisions, decisions.
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
>> Dave,
>> 
>> I have both Sta-Set X and Sta-Set X Plus halyards.  The Sta-Set X is 7/16 
>> inch; the Sta-Set X Plus, 3/8 inch.  I prefer the Plus for several reasons.  
>> Lighter, less weight aloft (although not much).  It seems more pliable, that 
>> is, less stiff.  It's easier to splice but only marginally.  
>> 
>> Both use a parallel core.  I read somewhere that uni-directional core lines 
>> don't like to stay bent in the same spot.  This is common with halyards.  
>> They stay bent around the sheaves in the same spot for a while.  However, NE 
>> ropes lists halyard use for both.
>> 
>> With Plus's slightly greater strength, you might be able to drop down a size 
>> and save $$.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> 
>> From: Dave Godwin 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 5:51 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
>> 
>> Jake and others,
>> 
>> Yeah, after doing some simple intertubes searching and pricing I’ve come to 
>> the same conclusion, stick with Sta-set X. It was and has been fine. I was 
>> just assuming that some new wonder line had been invented that would be a 
>> logical replacement. The Dyneema lines were a bit, no, a lot pricey. 
>> Especially for someone that will just be cruising their boat like I intend 
>> to.
>> 
>> Now I just have to decide on the color. :-)
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Dave
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> 
>> 
>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 6:09 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
>> 
>> > Dave,
>> > 
>> > There's nothing wrong with Stat-set-X.  It is much better than the regular
>> > Sta-set by far.  I think Sta-set-X is a great value for what you get.  If
>> > you like it, stick with it.
>> > 
>> > Jake
>> > 
>> > -Original Message-
>> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
>> > Godwin
>> > Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:26 AM
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
>> > 
>> > I'm in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing 
>> > that
>> > is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did
>> > this 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious
>> > little left afterwards so I'm inclined to do the same again.
>> > 
>> > Anyway, I'm out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was
>> > wondering what others were using. Like many, I'd like to keep weight aloft
>> > as low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew
>> > won't complain. Recommendations?
>> > 
>> > Best,
>> > Dave
>> > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> > ___
>> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > ___
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>> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 One Design

[Jim Watts]

That subject came up a couple of weeks ago, and the builder is present to
answer questions.


On 27 November 2013 13:22, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> I’m sure most of you have seen this by now:
> http://dlo9dp2r69urx.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/CC30Interactive.jpg
>
> So what’s the word? Love it? Hate it?
>
> Me thinks I hate it . . . .
>
>
>  All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>
>
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>
>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm - mast rake

[Dennis C.]

Aaron,

It's not a 10" rake, it's a 1 degree rake.  Conventional wisdom for C&C's seems 
to be that a 1 inch rake is optimum.

However, that's dependent on lots of factors, namely the condition of the 
sails.  Flat sails result in less weather helm.  Note that it's not just the 
main but can include the genoa as well.  A larger genoa, 150-170% overlap, with 
a deep draft aft or a cupped leech can increase the propensity for weather 
helm.  

Yes, it's a balance between center of effort (CE) and center of resistance 
(CR).  The draft of the sails affects CE.  The further aft the draft is, the 
more CE moves aft.  The deeper the draft, the more effect it has.

So, 1 degree of rake is probably about 7 inches for your boat.  I run about 11 
inches on Touche' and am contemplating another inch or two more.  Multiply your 
boat's P dimension by the sine of 1 degree or 0.01745.  Your P is 34 feet.  
That gives you 0.5933 feet or 7 inches aft.  Drop a plumb from the masthead to 
the gooseneck.

Increasing the length of your forestay will move the masthead aft and increase 
rake.  I seem to believe 1 inch of forestay will move the masthead about 3-4 
inches.  You can approximate it closely it with the Pythagorean theorem.  Go 
here:

http://www.basic-mathematics.com/pythagorean-theorem-calculator.html

Assuming the technical info on the C&C website is a plumb mast, we do a bit of 
math.  "C" = your I dimension or 39 feet.  "A" will be your J dimension, 13.5 
feet.  This yields a "B" of 36.6.  This will be the new B in our next 
calculation.  Let's add the desired rake, 7 inches to the "old" J to yield a 
new A of 14.08.  Plug that in with the calculated "B" of 36.6 and you get a new 
C of 39.2.  So, you need to increase your I dimension by .2 feet or about 2.5 
inches to move the masthead 7 inches.  

Of course, your mast may not be plumb but you can use the tool above to see 
where you need to be.

Good luck,

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: Aaron Rouhi 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 2:14 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
> 
>
>
>I never tried a 10" rake. I'll give it shot. I think I have enough tread in my 
>forestay turnbuckle...  Thanks guys!
>
>
>
>Cheers,
>Aaron R.
>Admiral Maggie,
>1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
>Annapolis, MD
>
>
>
>
>From: dwight...@gmail.com
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 16:08:37 -0400
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
>   
>Your thinking seems fine: I just have no
experience with forward rake that I can share.  I have never tried that but I
don’t think it would work good upwind…6-10 inches should be good, something
else might be the problem
> 
>
>
> 
>From:CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi
>Sent: November 27, 2013 3:55 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI
weather helm
> 
>Hmmm I always thought with
more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves further
aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a result
weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to move COE
forward. Am I wrong?
> 
>Cheers,
>Aaron R.
>Admiral Maggie,
>1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
>Annapolis, MD
> 
>
>
> 
>From: f...@postaudio.net
>Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 13:43:13 -0600
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
>Aaron — Dwight’s right, you’re going the wrong way!  Rake aft about
six to eight inches and see what happens.
>
>Fred Street-- Minneapolis
>S/V Oceanis (1979
C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:52 PM,
dwight 
wrote:
> 
>>What
is she like after that change?  I am not sure how that would work on a
beat…seems unconventional to me…I would try 6 to 10 inches aft
>> 
>>Are
you talking 10 kts true or apparent wind…is it usual for you have a reef in
when most other boats around you don’t
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi
>>Sent: November 27, 2013 2:20 PM
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>> 
>>It's raked about an inch
forward... It's a recent change I made in an attempt to reduce the weather
helm...
>
>
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>
>
> 
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in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dave Godwin]

Dennis,

Interesting. I’m at the New England (soon to be Teufelberger in Feb! Say that 3 
times real fast…) web site right now. Their calculator is calling for 11mm 
(7/16’s) Sta-set X which I currently have for my boat. I’m not seeing a Plus 
version listed but the calculator also recommends the T-900 in 10mm (3/8’s) for 
main and jib halyards.

I agree with the observation about the Sta-set X being stiff. That is something 
that I wouldn’t mind changing but the price delta would be the deciding factor. 
As a cruiser these days, the jib goes up in the Summer and comes down in the 
Fall. We’ve stopped using the symmetrical spinnaker in our dotage so until we 
get a new asym, that halyard never gets touched.

Decisions, decisions.

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 27, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Dave,
> 
> I have both Sta-Set X and Sta-Set X Plus halyards.  The Sta-Set X is 7/16 
> inch; the Sta-Set X Plus, 3/8 inch.  I prefer the Plus for several reasons.  
> Lighter, less weight aloft (although not much).  It seems more pliable, that 
> is, less stiff.  It's easier to splice but only marginally.  
> 
> Both use a parallel core.  I read somewhere that uni-directional core lines 
> don't like to stay bent in the same spot.  This is common with halyards.  
> They stay bent around the sheaves in the same spot for a while.  However, NE 
> ropes lists halyard use for both.
> 
> With Plus's slightly greater strength, you might be able to drop down a size 
> and save $$.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> From: Dave Godwin 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 5:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> 
> Jake and others,
> 
> Yeah, after doing some simple intertubes searching and pricing I’ve come to 
> the same conclusion, stick with Sta-set X. It was and has been fine. I was 
> just assuming that some new wonder line had been invented that would be a 
> logical replacement. The Dyneema lines were a bit, no, a lot pricey. 
> Especially for someone that will just be cruising their boat like I intend to.
> 
> Now I just have to decide on the color. :-)
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 
> 
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 6:09 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> 
> > Dave,
> > 
> > There's nothing wrong with Stat-set-X.  It is much better than the regular
> > Sta-set by far.  I think Sta-set-X is a great value for what you get.  If
> > you like it, stick with it.
> > 
> > Jake
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
> > Godwin
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:26 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> > 
> > I'm in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that
> > is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did
> > this 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious
> > little left afterwards so I'm inclined to do the same again.
> > 
> > Anyway, I'm out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was
> > wondering what others were using. Like many, I'd like to keep weight aloft
> > as low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew
> > won't complain. Recommendations?
> > 
> > Best,
> > Dave
> > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs

[Dennis C.]

Jake,

I will research this.

Dennis C




>
> From: Jake Brodersen 
>To: 'Dennis C.' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 4:53 PM
>Subject: RE: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs
> 
>
>
>Dennis,
> 
>I’ve seen several instructions that say not to smack them with a hammer.  Who 
>do we believe…  I know you want a nice tight fit though.
> 
>Jake
> 
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
>Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 1:00 PM
>To: Cn Clist
>Subject: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs
> 
>Right or wrong here's how I install shaft zincs on Touche'.
> 
>   1. Use a good brand of zinc with a copper contact.  I like Camp zincs
>   2. Use emery cloth to make shaft bright
>   3. Apply a small amount of TefGel to the copper contact
>   4. Place zinc on shaft forward of the strut.  Leave 1/2 to 1 shaft 
> diameter space to allow water to flow into cutless bearing
>   5. Tighten the zinc's fasteners evenly.
>   6. Rotate shaft until one of the copper contact flats is at the bottom
>   7. Whack it firmly with a hammer to set the contact against the shaft.  
> Note: striking upward reduces the side loading on the strut which may break 
> the sealant or damage the strut
>   8. Rotate shaft 180 degrees and whack the other contact
>   9. Tighten the fasteners again
>I usually install a second zinc immediately forward of the first and rotated 
>90 degrees.  
> 
>Dennis C.
>Touche' 35-1 #83
>Mandeville, LA
>
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dennis C.]

Dave,

I have both Sta-Set X and Sta-Set X Plus halyards.  The Sta-Set X is 7/16 inch; 
the Sta-Set X Plus, 3/8 inch.  I prefer the Plus for several reasons.  Lighter, 
less weight aloft (although not much).  It seems more pliable, that is, less 
stiff.  It's easier to splice but only marginally.  

Both use a parallel core.  I read somewhere that uni-directional core lines 
don't like to stay bent in the same spot.  This is common with halyards.  They 
stay bent around the sheaves in the same spot for a while.  However, NE ropes 
lists halyard use for both.

With Plus's slightly greater strength, you might be able to drop down a size 
and save $$.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Dave Godwin 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 5:51 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> 
>
>Jake and others,
>
>Yeah, after doing some simple intertubes searching and pricing I’ve come to 
>the same conclusion, stick with Sta-set X. It was and has been fine. I was 
>just assuming that some new wonder line had been invented that would be a 
>logical replacement. The Dyneema lines were a bit, no, a lot pricey. 
>Especially for someone that will just be cruising their boat like I intend to.
>
>Now I just have to decide on the color. :-)
>
>Cheers,
>Dave
>1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>
>
>On Nov 27, 2013, at 6:09 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>> 
>> There's nothing wrong with Stat-set-X.  It is much better than the regular
>> Sta-set by far.  I think Sta-set-X is a great value for what you get.  If
>> you like it, stick with it.
>> 
>> Jake
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
>> Godwin
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:26 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
>> 
>> I'm in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that
>> is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did
>> this 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious
>> little left afterwards so I'm inclined to do the same again.
>> 
>> Anyway, I'm out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was
>> wondering what others were using. Like many, I'd like to keep weight aloft
>> as low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew
>> won't complain. Recommendations?
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dave Godwin]

Jake and others,

Yeah, after doing some simple intertubes searching and pricing I’ve come to the 
same conclusion, stick with Sta-set X. It was and has been fine. I was just 
assuming that some new wonder line had been invented that would be a logical 
replacement. The Dyneema lines were a bit, no, a lot pricey. Especially for 
someone that will just be cruising their boat like I intend to.

Now I just have to decide on the color. :-)

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 27, 2013, at 6:09 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

> Dave,
> 
> There's nothing wrong with Stat-set-X.  It is much better than the regular
> Sta-set by far.  I think Sta-set-X is a great value for what you get.  If
> you like it, stick with it.
> 
> Jake
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
> Godwin
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:26 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> 
> I'm in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that
> is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did
> this 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious
> little left afterwards so I'm inclined to do the same again.
> 
> Anyway, I'm out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was
> wondering what others were using. Like many, I'd like to keep weight aloft
> as low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew
> won't complain. Recommendations?
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 2014 Northeast Rendezvous

[David Risch]

Thanks Rob,

Happy Thanksgiving to you too. 

Thank you for coordinating the survey.  I know you sorted through many 
differing opinions.  But with the factory backing the location and their 
motivation as new owners to showcase the marque I think it will be a blast.  

And...allow us the a choice of facilities to accommodate us as all as a group 
together...a very important factor for a successful gathering of fun folks. 

Merry Turkey to you and yours!!!
  
  David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 cell

-Original Message-
From: Robert Gallagher 
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 20:03:54 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List 2014 Northeast Rendezvous


Happy thanksgiving everyone.  Our survey has ended and the results are in. 
The 2014 Northeast Rendezvous will be held in the Newport RI area on the third 
weekend in September. More details to come. 
The 2015 Northeast Rendezvous will be held in mid Long Island Sound in the 
Clinton/Westbrook CT area. 
More details to follow! 
Rob

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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Jake Brodersen]

Dave,

There's nothing wrong with Stat-set-X.  It is much better than the regular
Sta-set by far.  I think Sta-set-X is a great value for what you get.  If
you like it, stick with it.

Jake

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Godwin
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

I'm in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that
is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did
this 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious
little left afterwards so I'm inclined to do the same again.

Anyway, I'm out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was
wondering what others were using. Like many, I'd like to keep weight aloft
as low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew
won't complain. Recommendations?

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Jake Brodersen]

Rick,

 

I remove my wheel several times a year.   Keeping the shaft polished will
enable the wheel to slide off easily.  Although I see nothing wrong with
getting my shaft lubed too..LOL  

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

 

Three arm gear puller. You can rent one from Auto Zone for a couple of bucks
(and maybe from Canadian Tire).

 

And if your wheel is stuck that badly, it needs to get taken off and have
the shaft lubed anyway.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

 

You may need to use some force to slide the wheel off of the axle. I banged
on mine as I pulled on it .. wrong move, If you're going to help get the
wheel off with any tapping or hammering, use a rubber mallet and maybe a
piece of leather or something. Don't pull on the wheel, pull on the spokes
close to the centre to minimize any bending forces.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs

[Jake Brodersen]

Dennis,

 

I've seen several instructions that say not to smack them with a hammer.
Who do we believe.  I know you want a nice tight fit though.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 1:00 PM
To: Cn Clist
Subject: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs

 

Right or wrong here's how I install shaft zincs on Touche'.

 

1.  Use a good brand of zinc with a copper contact.  I like Camp zincs
2.  Use emery cloth to make shaft bright
3.  Apply a small amount of TefGel to the copper contact
4.  Place zinc on shaft forward of the strut.  Leave 1/2 to 1 shaft
diameter space to allow water to flow into cutless bearing
5.  Tighten the zinc's fasteners evenly.
6.  Rotate shaft until one of the copper contact flats is at the bottom
7.  Whack it firmly with a hammer to set the contact against the shaft.
Note: striking upward reduces the side loading on the strut which may break
the sealant or damage the strut
8.  Rotate shaft 180 degrees and whack the other contact
9.  Tighten the fasteners again

I usually install a second zinc immediately forward of the first and rotated
90 degrees.  

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Prop pitch advice needed

[Jake Brodersen]

Fred,

 

Good call, as usual.  I installed a home-made galvanic isolator (Yandina
design) a number of years ago.  I can go a full season or more on a single
zinc.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 12:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop pitch advice needed

 

Joanne - if you're in fresh water, you shouldn't need anodes at all.  The
only reason I have one on my prop shaft is to keep it from backing out of
the hull if the coupler comes loose.

 

If you're seeing that much corrosion in fresh water, there are probably some
serious electrical issues in your marina (or possibly, but less likely, on
your boat).  I'd have the marina bring in an electrician before someone goes
for a swim and gets electrocuted; you should also have a qualified marine
electrician check your inverter setup as soon as possible.  It's also
possible that a neighboring boat has some serious wiring issues.  Are you
docked next to any large power boats?  They're notorious for having issues.

 

The next option would be for you to add a galvanic isolator to your
shorepower inlet; something like the ProMariner ProSafe 30:
http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafe/ .  This would
help isolate you from shorepower-based issues.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Nov 26, 2013, at 11:12 AM, joanne.dowd3...@gmail.com wrote:





Joel

 

the anode had some corrosion but by no means badly. I am going to put on 2
this year. I did question that somehow I got a salt water anode instead of
fresh. We have had some problems with the electrical inverter as well this
year- seems to have stopped working- I did wonder if the unused AC power
from the shore power could have been the cause- but I am not an electrician
so may be WAY off

 

Joanne

 

Sent from Windows Mail

 

 

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Stus-List Enigma

[Antoine Rose]

Hi folks,
Now that winter has started, how about resolving an enigma ? Ready ?

Two sailors are challenging each other for a race to determine who's the 
fastest. They have only one boat and will take turn to cross the river from 
east to west. The goal is to cross the river as fast as possible. The river, 
perfectly linear and oriented north-south has a current flowing to the south at 
a constant speed of 5 knots.The first one to go get a wind from north with a 
constant speed of 6 knots. The second sailor to go, unfortunately saw the wind 
dropping to one knot as soon has he gets on the river. Boat? Choose whatever 
C&C you prefer, as long as both sailors use the same boat, same sails.
Who won the race ? More importantly : why ?
Sorry, there is nothing to win for a good answer.
Believe this was too easy ? What if the first sailor gets a west wind of 5 
knots and the second gets an east wind of 5 knots?
Have fun.

Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)


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Stus-List C&C 30 One Design

[Edd Schillay]

I’m sure most of you have seen this by now: 
http://dlo9dp2r69urx.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/CC30Interactive.jpg

So what’s the word? Love it? Hate it?

Me thinks I hate it . . . . 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

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Re: Stus-List 2014 Northeast Rendezvous

[Harry Hallgring]

Rob,
Happy Turkeylet me know if you need a hand with Newport 2014.

Harry

Sent from my old iPhone

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 15:03, Robert Gallagher  wrote:
> 
> Happy thanksgiving everyone.  Our survey has ended and the results are in.
> 
> The 2014 Northeast Rendezvous will be held in the Newport RI area on the 
> third weekend in September. More details to come.
> 
> The 2015 Northeast Rendezvous will be held in mid Long Island Sound in the 
> Clinton/Westbrook CT area.
> 
> More details to follow!
> 
> Rob
> 
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Don Newman]

Sail condition and trim have a significant impact on weather helm.



On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 3:06 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Speaking from a practical. rather than theoretical standpoint, my
> experience with my previous boat, a 1981 30mkI suggests to me that having
> the top of the mast about 8-9” AFT of the gooseneck resulted in a
> well-balanced boat.
>
> I guess your mileage may vary...
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 1:56 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
> Aaron,
>
> I'm with you.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wednesday, November 27, 2013, Aaron Rouhi wrote:
>
>> Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves
>> further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a
>> result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to
>> move COE forward. Am I wrong?
>>
>
>
> ___
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>
>


-- 
Don Newman
C&C 44
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Hoyt, Mike]

Can it be that raking forward is removing excessive rake and ending up
with only 6-10 inches rake?  is. Maybe was 10-15 and has been reduced to
6-10 inches
 
Also - I second the baggy sails opinion.  Our previous boat had a great
tendency to round up in a puff. Was George Hinterhoeller designed and
buil Niagara 26.  Replacing the 1979 25 year old main with a new sail
made a huge difference.  The new sails were not only significantly
faster but they changed how the boat sailed.  Where before we would
require a double reef after the new sail wa a single reef, where was a
single reef was no reef, where before was a lot of heel after was much
less heel.  Boat also points a bit higher.  Cannot say enough about
replacing a sail that is 20 or more years old - if you can afford it
this is the single best upgrade on an old sailboat.
 
If I am not mistaken there are a lot of sail controls on a C&C30-1 that
can also be adjusted to make the sail flatter and move draft forward.
Starting with halyard tension, cunningham.  
 
We have a very high percentage of the boats at our club as C&C30-1. At
one time we had 6 and I think now still have I think 5.  The boats seem
to really love 15-20 knots and struggle with the light stuff.  The
skippers who push them a bit in 20 knots get a lot of good stuff from
the boat.  I do not recall seeing any of them round up.  Is a great boat
in a breeze
 
Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
dwight
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 4:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm



Your thinking seems fine: I just have no experience with forward rake
that I can share.  I have never tried that but I don't think it would
work good upwind...6-10 inches should be good, something else might be
the problem

 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi
Sent: November 27, 2013 3:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

 

Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves
further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as
a result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward
to move COE forward. Am I wrong?

 

Cheers,

Aaron R.

Admiral Maggie,

1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540

Annapolis, MD

 



From: f...@postaudio.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 13:43:13 -0600
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

Aaron - Dwight's right, you're going the wrong way!  Rake aft about six
to eight inches and see what happens.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:52 PM, dwight  wrote:

 

What is she like after that change?  I am not sure how that
would work on a beat...seems unconventional to me...I would try 6 to 10
inches aft

 

Are you talking 10 kts true or apparent wind...is it usual for
you have a reef in when most other boats around you don't

 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Of Aaron Rouhi
Sent: November 27, 2013 2:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

 

It's raked about an inch forward... It's a recent change I made
in an attempt to reduce the weather helm...



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3629/6371 - Release Date:
11/27/13

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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Aaron Rouhi]

I never tried a 10" rake. I'll give it shot. I think I have enough tread in my 
forestay turnbuckle...  Thanks guys!

Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

From: dwight...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 16:08:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm



























Your thinking seems fine: I just have no
experience with forward rake that I can share.  I have never tried that but I
don’t think it would work good upwind…6-10 inches should be good, something
else might be the problem

 









From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi

Sent: November 27, 2013 3:55 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI
weather helm



 



Hmmm I always thought with
more mast rake the Center
 Of Effort moves further
aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a result
weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to move COE
forward. Am I wrong?



 







Cheers,





Aaron R.





Admiral Maggie,





1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540





Annapolis, MD





 









From: f...@postaudio.net

Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 13:43:13 -0600

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm



Aaron — Dwight’s right, you’re going the wrong way!  Rake aft about
six to eight inches and see what happens.







Fred
  Street -- Minneapolis

S/V Oceanis (1979
C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
 WI   :^(







 







On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:52 PM,
dwight 
wrote:





 



What
is she like after that change?  I am not sure how that would work on a
beat…seems unconventional to me…I would try 6 to 10 inches aft





 





Are
you talking 10 kts true or apparent wind…is it usual for you have a reef in
when most other boats around you don’t





 













From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi

Sent: November 27, 2013 2:20 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm







 







It's raked about an inch
forward... It's a recent change I made in an attempt to reduce the weather
helm...













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No virus found
in this message.

Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3629/6371 - Release Date: 11/27/13







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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[dwight]

Your thinking seems fine: I just have no experience with forward rake that I
can share.  I have never tried that but I don't think it would work good
upwind.6-10 inches should be good, something else might be the problem

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi
Sent: November 27, 2013 3:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

 

Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves
further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a
result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to move
COE forward. Am I wrong?

 

Cheers,

Aaron R.

Admiral Maggie,

1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540

Annapolis, MD

 

  _  

From: f...@postaudio.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 13:43:13 -0600
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

Aaron - Dwight's right, you're going the wrong way!  Rake aft about six to
eight inches and see what happens.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:52 PM, dwight  wrote:

 

What is she like after that change?  I am not sure how that would work on a
beat.seems unconventional to me.I would try 6 to 10 inches aft

 

Are you talking 10 kts true or apparent wind.is it usual for you have a reef
in when most other boats around you don't

 


  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi
Sent: November 27, 2013 2:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

 

It's raked about an inch forward... It's a recent change I made in an
attempt to reduce the weather helm...



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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3629/6371 - Release Date: 11/27/13

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing - MMO

[Stevan Plavsa]

Touche!




On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 3:01 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  I keep a quart on Touche' all the
> time.  A distracted fuel dock worker put a half gallon of gasoline in my
> diesel tank.  I had it pumped out but when I chatted with the Universal
> diesel tech manager a few days later, he said I could have simply thrown a
> quart of MMO in the tank to restore lubricity and motored on down the ditch.
>
> Most Walmarts carry MMO.
>
> I used it when I bought Touche'.  Touche' had been idle for several years,
> I'm guessing nearly a decade.  The engine was stiff and inoperable.  I
> pulled the sparkplugs, poured some MMO down the holes and let it sit 3-4
> weeks while I worked on other tasks.  I then carefully rotated the crank
> back and forth until it spun freely.  After a bit of coaxing, I got it to
> start.  It ran fine for 4 more years.  It was running fine when I replaced
> it with the diesel.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>   --
>  *From:* Stevan Plavsa 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 27, 2013 1:37 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
> I ordered the MMO from Moyer Marine when I bought some parts for my A4.
> Moyer is the authority on the A4 and he swears by the stuff. Either
> because he has an interest in it or because he truly believes it is
> beneficial in the A4. Either way, it's a good idea to lube up those
> cylinders and valves before mothballing the engine for the winter to
> prevent seizing and stuck valves. So as far as I'm concerned, MMO is as
> good as any fogging or engine oil, all of which will work.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 12:10 PM,  wrote:
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> Indigo
> *Sent:* November 26, 2013 11:59 PM
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Frederick G Street]

Speaking from a practical. rather than theoretical standpoint, my experience 
with my previous boat, a 1981 30mkI suggests to me that having the top of the 
mast about 8-9” AFT of the gooseneck resulted in a well-balanced boat.

I guess your mileage may vary...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 27, 2013, at 1:56 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Aaron,
> 
> I'm with you.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wednesday, November 27, 2013, Aaron Rouhi wrote:
> Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves 
> further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a 
> result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to move 
> COE forward. Am I wrong?

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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[sam.c.salter]

Yeah - I’m with Aaron too!

So if reducing mast rake isn’t helping, what are your sails like?

If it isn’t rake, its got to be sail condition or maybe shroud / stay setup?



sam :-)






From: Joel Aronson
Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎November‎ ‎27‎, ‎2013 ‎12‎:‎56‎ ‎PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com




Aaron,



I'm with you.




Joel

On Wednesday, November 27, 2013, Aaron Rouhi wrote:



Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves 
further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a 
result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to move 
COE forward. Am I wrong?





Cheers,

Aaron R.

Admiral Maggie,

1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540

Annapolis, MD





From: f...@postaudio.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 13:43:13 -0600
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

Aaron — Dwight’s right, you’re going the wrong way!  Rake aft about six to 
eight inches and see what happens.



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 


On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:52 PM, dwight  wrote:



What is she like after that change?  I am not sure how that would work on a 
beat…seems unconventional to me…I would try 6 to 10 inches aft

 

Are you talking 10 kts true or apparent wind…is it usual for you have a reef in 
when most other boats around you don’t

 






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi
Sent: November 27, 2013 2:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

 


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Re: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[Jim Watts]

I asked a local rigging shop to check my rig (and charge me for it) and
tell me what needs to be done. They said with the age of my rig they
wouldn't even look at it, just replace it. Guess which rigger I'm NOT going
to for service.


On 27 November 2013 11:31, Petar Horvatic  wrote:

> Cold forming the head does not always come out right.  There is a chance
> you need the stays replaced while re-heading.
>
> It might be worth you get a rigger to come and inspect the rig for you
> first, walk you through what needs to be done.
>
> I was fortunate to have original rigger that did the rod on my boat,  live
> ½ hour away from me.   Form this aspect not all shops are created equal.
> I’ve had few friends with C&C boats that ended up with mis-aligned
> spreaders, spreaders not bisecting the angle, etc.  This was as a result of
> going to either the cheapest shop for hydraulic work or using an
> incompetent rigger.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Folsom
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:49 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List re-heading rod rigging
>
>
>
> I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this
> topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.
>
> My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to
> replace them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the
> tips? or do I have to replace the entire spreaders?
>
> I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing,
> as I can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have
> experience with getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I
> will have to replace the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the
> lower spreader to the top of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay,
> and the lower shroud and lower diagonal. The forestay is new.
>
> Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand
> the fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.
>
> Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?
>
> thanks again for the helpful advice
>
> David Folsom
>
> Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36
>
> San Diego
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Stus-List 2014 Northeast Rendezvous

[Robert Gallagher]

Happy thanksgiving everyone.  Our survey has ended and the results are in.

The 2014 Northeast Rendezvous will be held in the Newport RI area on the
third weekend in September. More details to come.

The 2015 Northeast Rendezvous will be held in mid Long Island Sound in the
Clinton/Westbrook CT area.

More details to follow!

Rob
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing - MMO

[Dennis C.]

Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  I keep a quart on Touche' all the time.  A 
distracted fuel dock worker put a half gallon of gasoline in my diesel tank.  I 
had it pumped out but when I chatted with the Universal diesel tech manager a 
few days later, he said I could have simply thrown a quart of MMO in the tank 
to restore lubricity and motored on down the ditch.


Most Walmarts carry MMO.

I used it when I bought Touche'.  Touche' had been idle for several years, I'm 
guessing nearly a decade.  The engine was stiff and inoperable.  I pulled the 
sparkplugs, poured some MMO down the holes and let it sit 3-4 weeks while I 
worked on other tasks.  I then carefully rotated the crank back and forth until 
it spun freely.  After a bit of coaxing, I got it to start.  It ran fine for 4 
more years.  It was running fine when I replaced it with the diesel.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



>
> From: Stevan Plavsa 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 1:37 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
> 
>
>
>I ordered the MMO from Moyer Marine when I bought some parts for my A4.
>Moyer is the authority on the A4 and he swears by the stuff. Either because he 
>has an interest in it or because he truly believes it is beneficial in the A4. 
>Either way, it's a good idea to lube up those cylinders and valves before 
>mothballing the engine for the winter to prevent seizing and stuck valves. So 
>as far as I'm concerned, MMO is as good as any fogging or engine oil, all of 
>which will work.
>
>
>Steve
>Suhana, C&C 32
>Toronto
>
>
>
>On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 12:10 PM,  wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> 
>>From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
>>
>>Sent: November 26, 2013 11:59 PM
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Joel Aronson]

Aaron,

I'm with you.

Joel

On Wednesday, November 27, 2013, Aaron Rouhi wrote:

> Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves
> further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a
> result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to
> move COE forward. Am I wrong?
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
>
>
> --
> From: f...@postaudio.net  'f...@postaudio.net');>
> Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 13:43:13 -0600
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
> Aaron — Dwight’s right, you’re going the wrong way!  Rake aft about six to
> eight inches and see what happens.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:52 PM, dwight  wrote:
>
> What is she like after that change?  I am not sure how that would work on
> a beat…seems unconventional to me…I would try 6 to 10 inches aft
>
> Are you talking 10 kts true or apparent wind…is it usual for you have a
> reef in when most other boats around you don’t
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Aaron
> Rouhi
> *Sent:* November 27, 2013 2:20 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
>
> ___ This List is provided by
> the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Aaron Rouhi]

Hmmm I always thought with more mast rake the Center Of Effort moves 
further aft which means wind pushing the boat from behind the CLR and as a 
result weather helm increases so using that logic I raked it forward to move 
COE forward. Am I wrong?

Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

From: f...@postaudio.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 13:43:13 -0600
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

Aaron — Dwight’s right, you’re going the wrong way!  Rake aft about six to 
eight inches and see what happens.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:52 PM, dwight  wrote:What is she 
like after that change?  I am not sure how that would work on a beat…seems 
unconventional to me…I would try 6 to 10 inches aft Are you talking 10 kts true 
or apparent wind…is it usual for you have a reef in when most other boats 
around you don’t From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi
Sent: November 27, 2013 2:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm It's raked about an inch forward... 
It's a recent change I made in an attempt to reduce the weather helm...

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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Frederick G Street]

Aaron — Dwight’s right, you’re going the wrong way!  Rake aft about six to 
eight inches and see what happens.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:52 PM, dwight  wrote:

> What is she like after that change?  I am not sure how that would work on a 
> beat…seems unconventional to me…I would try 6 to 10 inches aft
>  
> Are you talking 10 kts true or apparent wind…is it usual for you have a reef 
> in when most other boats around you don’t
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi
> Sent: November 27, 2013 2:20 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>  
> It's raked about an inch forward... It's a recent change I made in an attempt 
> to reduce the weather helm...

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[Stevan Plavsa]

I ordered the MMO from Moyer Marine when I bought some parts for my A4.
Moyer is the authority on the A4 and he swears by the stuff. Either because
he has an interest in it or because he truly believes it is beneficial in
the A4. Either way, it's a good idea to lube up those cylinders and valves
before mothballing the engine for the winter to prevent seizing and stuck
valves. So as far as I'm concerned, MMO is as good as any fogging or engine
oil, all of which will work.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 12:10 PM,  wrote:

>
> It's on the shelf marked "Snake Oil!
> sam :-)
>
>   *From: *dwight
> *Sent: *Wednesday, November 27, 2013 7:45 AM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Reply To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
>   Where did you find the Marvel Mystery oil…Canadian Tire used to
> have it but no longer
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
> Plavsa
> *Sent:* November 27, 2013 10:12 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
>
>
> I remove my t-stat, then I run anti-freeze through the motor by
> disconnecting the intake hose from the seacock and shoving it in the
> antifreeze bottle. I put a huge bucket under the exhaust and when
> anti-freeze starts coming out of the exhaust I'm done. No messing around
> running the motor and complicated hose runs. Mine is a raw water cooled A4.
> I put a few drops of marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole and turn
> the engine over manually a few times to lubricate the valves and I'm done.
> In the spring I reverse the process and pull freshwater through the motor
> and catch the anti-freeze in the same bucket before launch.
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 4:52 AM, dwight  wrote:
>
> If you don’t run the engine after the oil change the new oil will just sit
> in the sump all winter long…best to give her a run and get the new stuff
> where it’s needed…how long you have to run to achieve that I am not sure
> but I change oil for the winter storage before my last trip to the marina,
> for me that’s about a 20 minute run under power.
>
>
>   --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> Indigo
> *Sent:* November 26, 2013 11:59 PM
>
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
>
>
> I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old
> oil out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil?  I have
> just been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil
> circulated. (Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp
>
>
>
> --
>
> Jonathan
>
> Indigo C&C 35III
>
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
>
> On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot  wrote:
>
>   Chuck
>
> Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it is
> equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil
>
>
>Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S  wrote:
>
> Yeah Dwight,
> I guess you are right.  I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine
> oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature
> before winterizing.
> I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase.  I
> have a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink,
> then the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the
> manual bilge pump.  This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the
> pumps and will use again next year.
>
>
>
> Chuck
> *Resolute*
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>   --
>
> *From: *"dwight veinot" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Sent: *Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM
>
>
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
> Chuck
>
> If I remember you have a Universal M4-30.  Is yours your water cooled and
> that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure the thermostat
> opened.  No need to do that if your engine has a heat exchanger like mine
> does
>
>
>Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S  wrote:
>
> I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today.  Nice to have that option.  It
> works.  It is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze
> escaping the exhaust.
>
> My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere
> because of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks.   It works.  It is
> environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust.
>   But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed
> the 15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel.   Had to run for about twenty
> minutes to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was open.  I
> started w 4 1/2 gallons of

Re: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[Petar Horvatic]

Cold forming the head does not always come out right.  There is a chance you
need the stays replaced while re-heading.  

It might be worth you get a rigger to come and inspect the rig for you
first, walk you through what needs to be done.   

I was fortunate to have original rigger that did the rod on my boat,  live ½
hour away from me.   Form this aspect not all shops are created equal.  I’ve
had few friends with C&C boats that ended up with mis-aligned spreaders,
spreaders not bisecting the angle, etc.  This was as a result of going to
either the cheapest shop for hydraulic work or using an incompetent rigger.


 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Folsom
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

 

I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this
topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.



My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to
replace them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the
tips? or do I have to replace the entire spreaders?

I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing, as
I can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have experience
with getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I will have to
replace the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the lower spreader
to the top of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay, and the lower
shroud and lower diagonal. The forestay is new.

Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand
the fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.

Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?

thanks again for the helpful advice

David Folsom

Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36

San Diego

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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[dwight]

Lucky guy

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: November 27, 2013 2:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

 

Gear puller!

/palm>forehead

 

Crescent wrench is a good suggestion too. Another of those "why didn't I
think of that" moments. I guess it was because I heard it's "really easy"
and didn't show up prepared. 

 

A stand is key. My girlfriend and I mocked one up out of a broomstick, a
clamp, a desk and a chair IIRC. I'm sure a lot of combos will work but it's
important to have both hands free and to be able to rotate the wheel in a
controlled manner, and slowly. Gloves or one of those sewing palms are a
must. I think she managed it in a few sittings. She's an artist and enjoys
doing meticulous, detailed work so she actually enjoyed the project and it
came out really nice.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 12:16 PM, Tim Sippel 
wrote:

I believe your correct on the Elkhide, and it’s a touch more expensive than
doeskin.

I can tell you my doeskin cover went 7 years  and I just redid the top half
of the wheel 

 

Tim Sippel 
GSM -  TADIG Group 
Rogers  Wireless (CANRW) 
Microcell (CANMC) 

* (647)   747-7381 
* Email:   
   Toronto 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 12:10 PM
To: 1 CnC List


Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

 

All the commercial wheel wraps seem to be made of Elkhide. Supposedly
(according to my increasingly suspect memory) it doesn't rot or go really
stiff with exposure. 

 

On 27 November 2013 08:56, Tim Sippel  wrote:

I picture a Cow on the bow , shivering .. half dressed.

Tim
 Toronto



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:52 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

You have to be careful though. One half has a lot of holes in it.

Rich

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:45, Wally Bryant  wrote:
>
> It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a
half a cow hide cost about $20.
>
> Wal
>
>
> Tim Sippel wrote:
>> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about
80
>> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch
it
>> sew it on ..
>
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[dwight]

What is she like after that change?  I am not sure how that would work on a
beat.seems unconventional to me.I would try 6 to 10 inches aft 

 

Are you talking 10 kts true or apparent wind.is it usual for you have a reef
in when most other boats around you don't

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi
Sent: November 27, 2013 2:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

 

It's raked about an inch forward... It's a recent change I made in an
attempt to reduce the weather helm...

 

Cheers,

Aaron R.

Admiral Maggie,

1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540

Annapolis, MD

 

  _  

From: dwight...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 19:55:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

I don't think you should have to reef that soon.what is the rake on your
mast

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi
Sent: November 26, 2013 7:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

 

MK1 is stiff for sure but I just wish I had less weather helm. I generally
reef in anything above 10 knots... 

 

Cheers,

Aaron R.

Admiral Maggie,

1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540

Annapolis, MD

 

  _  

Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 18:46:07 -0400
From: dwight...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

The 30 MKI is just a much stiffer boat than the 30 MKII; see here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm

I believe that makes a huge difference in how these 2 very different C&C 30
designs perform going to weather, I believe this definitely has an effect on
heel angle and propensity to round up...I would expect the 30 MKII to
outperform the 30 MKI in light air but in heavier air I would expect the MKI
to outperform the MKII, even given that in most areas the MKII has a higher
rated speed potential and I believ that is due to the relative stiffnesses
of the boats...here on St. Margaret's Bay where we have mostly fresher
afternoon breezes the MKI rules




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

On Tue, Nov 26, 2013 at 5:11 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

Around the late 70's and early eighties the 20's and 39's were all getting
new, deeper rudders.  The swept back keels didn't / don't help.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 2:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

 

I don't think it will ever sail as good as the MKI but there are other
advantages




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 2:29 AM, Robert Gallagher  wrote:

My 30MKI had the mast raked back and the rigging on the tight side. Weather
helm yes, it could be a bear. Round ups never.  I could bury the rail deep
and just keep plowing along. 
My 30MKII's rudder will stall then round up out of control with to much sail
up and not enough tension on the backstay.  Too much heel and it gets scary.

All that being said im still learning on my MKII


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Stus-List Rod rigging

[Maturo, John]

I have a rob ball Baltic 39 and I am replacing the discontinuous rigging except 
the forestay. New turnbuckles mast tangs and rod for a bit less than 5k. It 
seems like a reasonable number considering the current rigging is from 1978 the 
year of build

John Maturo
203-494-6782

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:56, "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Wheel Wraps (Jim Watts)
>   2. Re:  Winterizing (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
>   3. Re:  re-heading rod rigging (Dave Godwin)
>   4. Re:  Wheel Wraps (Tim Sippel)
>   5. Re:  re-heading rod rigging (Dave Godwin)
>   6.  Installing shaft zincs (Ted Drossos)
>   7. Re:  re-heading rod rigging (Dennis C.)
>   8. Re:  30 MKI weather helm (Curtis)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 09:09:50 -0800
> From: Jim Watts 
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> All the commercial wheel wraps seem to be made of Elkhide. Supposedly
> (according to my increasingly suspect memory) it doesn't rot or go really
> stiff with exposure.
> 
> 
>> On 27 November 2013 08:56, Tim Sippel  wrote:
>> 
>> I picture a Cow on the bow , shivering .. half dressed.
>> 
>> Tim
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
>> Knowles
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:52 AM
>> To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
>> 
>> You have to be careful though. One half has a lot of holes in it.
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:45, Wally Bryant  wrote:
>>> 
>>> It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a
>> half a cow hide cost about $20.
>>> 
>>> Wal
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Tim Sippel wrote:
>>>> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about
>> 80
>>>> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch
>> it
>>>> sew it on ..
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be
>> subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived.
>> If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review,
>> dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content
>> is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored
>> as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect
>> our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted
>> any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please
>> notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any
>> computer or any storage medium without printing a copy.
>> 
>> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pi?ces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et
>> peut faire l?objet de droit d?auteur et de privil?ge juridique; aucun droit
>> connexe n?est exclu. Si vous n??tes pas le destinataire vis? ou son
>> repr?sentant, toute ?tude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel
>> en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut ?tre ill?gale. Tous
>> les messages peuvent ?tre surveill?s, selon les lois et r?glements
>> applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les
>> courriels ne sont pas s?curis?s et vous ?tes r?put?s avoir accept? tous les
>> risques qui y sont li?s si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce
&g

Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Jim Reinardy]

I looked at this option as well.  I thought it was great, but my wife is 
holding firm on leather.  I may make her help with the stitching as a penalty 
for that!  Thanks for all the great advice on this question.  Pete, in answer 
to your caution about the wheel cover, I just had one made last spring and made 
sure I allowed for some extra room, it's pretty loose.  

Thanks again,

Jim

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:23 AM, "Edd Schillay"  wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
>   According to them, no. Don’t get cold, don’t get hot. 
> 
>   I know a few people who have done this and they really love it. 
> 
> 
>   
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:37 AM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
>> 
>> That's an interesting idea.  Do you know if they get hot?
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Listers,
>>> 
>>> I’m going a different route than doing a leather cover. This year, I’m 
>>> sending my wheel to ColorWheelz (http://www.colorwheelz.com). Been herring 
>>> a lot of good things about it, especially that it doesn’t absorb water 
>>> (keeping my hands and sailing gloves dry). 
>>> 
>>> Best wishes to all for a joyous holiday, along with a happy and healthy 
>>> (and breezy) new year. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> All the best,
>>> 
>>> Edd
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> City Island, NY 
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Stevan Plavsa]

Gear puller!
/palm>forehead

Crescent wrench is a good suggestion too. Another of those "why didn't I
think of that" moments. I guess it was because I heard it's "really easy"
and didn't show up prepared.

A stand is key. My girlfriend and I mocked one up out of a broomstick, a
clamp, a desk and a chair IIRC. I'm sure a lot of combos will work but it's
important to have both hands free and to be able to rotate the wheel in a
controlled manner, and slowly. Gloves or one of those sewing palms are a
must. I think she managed it in a few sittings. She's an artist and enjoys
doing meticulous, detailed work so she actually enjoyed the project and it
came out really nice.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 12:16 PM, Tim Sippel wrote:

> I believe your correct on the Elkhide, and it’s a touch more expensive
> than doeskin.
>
> I can tell you my doeskin cover went 7 years  and I just redid the top
> half of the wheel
>
>
>
> Tim Sippel
> *GSM -  TADIG Group*
> Rogers  Wireless (CANRW)
> Microcell (CANMC)
> ( (647) 747-7381
> + Email:  
>  Toronto 
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
> Watts
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 27, 2013 12:10 PM
> *To:* 1 CnC List
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
>
>
>
> All the commercial wheel wraps seem to be made of Elkhide. Supposedly
> (according to my increasingly suspect memory) it doesn't rot or go really
> stiff with exposure.
>
>
>
> On 27 November 2013 08:56, Tim Sippel  wrote:
>
> I picture a Cow on the bow , shivering .. half dressed.
>
> Tim
>  Toronto
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
> Knowles
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:52 AM
> To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
>
> You have to be careful though. One half has a lot of holes in it.
>
> Rich
>
> > On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:45, Wally Bryant  wrote:
> >
> > It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a
> half a cow hide cost about $20.
> >
> > Wal
> >
> >
> > Tim Sippel wrote:
> >> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about
> 80
> >> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch
> it
> >> sew it on ..
> >
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be
> subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived.
> If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review,
> dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content
> is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored
> as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect
> our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted
> any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please
> notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any
> computer or any storage medium without printing a copy.
>
> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son
> représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel
> en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous
> les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements
> applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les
> courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les
> risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce
> moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser
> immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces
> jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support de données sans en imprimer une
> copie.
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be
> subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived.
> If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review,
> dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content
> is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored
> as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our p

Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Aaron Rouhi]

It's raked about an inch forward... It's a recent change I made in an attempt 
to reduce the weather helm...

Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

From: dwight...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 19:55:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm























I don’t think you should have to reef
that soon…what is the rake on your mast

 









From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi

Sent: November 26, 2013 7:31 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI
weather helm



 



MK1 is stiff for sure but I just
wish I had less weather helm. I generally reef in anything above 10
knots... 



 







Cheers,





Aaron R.





Admiral Maggie,





1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540





Annapolis, MD





 









Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 18:46:07 -0400

From: dwight...@gmail.com

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm





The 30 MKI is just a much stiffer boat than the 30
MKII; see here: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm



I believe that makes a huge
difference in how these 2 very different C&C 30 designs perform going to
weather, I believe this definitely has an effect on heel angle and propensity
to round up...I would expect the 30 MKII to outperform the 30 MKI in light air
but in heavier air I would expect the MKI to outperform the MKII, even given
that in most areas the MKII has a higher rated speed potential and I believ
that is due to the relative stiffnesses of the boats...here on St. Margaret's
Bay where we have mostly fresher afternoon breezes the MKI rules
















Dwight Veinot



Alianna 

C&C 35 MKII



Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS





 



On Tue, Nov 26, 2013 at 5:11 PM,
Bill Coleman 
wrote:





Around
the late 70’s and early eighties the 20’s and 39’s were all getting new, deeper
rudders.  The swept back keels didn’t / don’t help.

 

Bill
Coleman

C&C
39 

 



From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of dwight veinot

Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013
2:48 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI
weather helm







 



I don't think it will ever sail as
good as the MKI but there are other advantages
















Dwight Veinot



Alianna 

C&C 35 MKII



Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS





 



On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 2:29 AM,
Robert Gallagher 
wrote:

My 30MKI had the mast raked back
and the rigging on the tight side. Weather helm yes, it could be a bear. Round
ups never.  I could bury the rail deep and just keep plowing along. 

My 30MKII's rudder will stall then round up out of control with to much sail up
and not enough tension on the backstay.  Too much heel and it gets scary. 

All that being said im still learning on my MKII



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CnC-List@cnc-list.com



 





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No virus found
in this message.

Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3629/6368 - Release Date: 11/26/13







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Stus-List Black Friday

[Stevan Plavsa]

My car is in the shop and my club fees are due but I can't resist a good
deal :)

I checked Defender.com to see if they were having a black friday sale and I
didn't see any mention. Do you folks know of any online sailing related
sales that might be happening on the 29th? The boat always "needs" stuff.

You guys have black friday, we have boxing day .. boxing day sucks!

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Stus-List Wheel wraps

[Tom B]

I did Alera's last winter with the Boatleather kit w pad.  I used my bike stand 
and a car wheel lock I had laying rand to make a stand.  That helped a. Lot.  I 
also used the project as an excuse to get a decent pair of sailing gloves at 
the boat show in Seattle.  Gloves are a must if you want tight knots and don't 
want to shred your hands.

It was pretty easy.  The video helped, though doing it left handed made the 
video a little more difficult t follow.  The only real tricky parts were 
rounding the wheel spokes and the finishing knot.  

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/8442678780/

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:56 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Wheel Wraps (Jim Watts)
>   2. Re:  Winterizing (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
>   3. Re:  re-heading rod rigging (Dave Godwin)
>   4. Re:  Wheel Wraps (Tim Sippel)
>   5. Re:  re-heading rod rigging (Dave Godwin)
>   6.  Installing shaft zincs (Ted Drossos)
>   7. Re:  re-heading rod rigging (Dennis C.)
>   8. Re:  30 MKI weather helm (Curtis)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 09:09:50 -0800
> From: Jim Watts 
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> All the commercial wheel wraps seem to be made of Elkhide. Supposedly
> (according to my increasingly suspect memory) it doesn't rot or go really
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Curtis]

Yes But. i'm new to this boat and to sailing. So not quite ready for the
fast stuff yet. Hopeful this summer.



On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 9:18 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

> Isn't the sweet spot on a 30-1 only starting at 15+ knots?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> Curtis
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:09 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
> yea i'm with Ddwight on this one,
> My C&C30 mk1 # 675 loves 11 thru17 knots.
> I dont start thinking of a reef till i'm over 17 knots. I usley drop
> down to the working 115% first. If needed I will put the 1st Reef in
> around 18-22 knots.
> I have hade some uncontroled steering falling off the wind when
> tacking. that was my fault. not the boat.
>
> 1981 C&C 30 MK1 #675
>
> Beaufort, Sc.
>
>
>
> On 11/26/13, dwight  wrote:
> > I don't think you should have to reef that soon.what is the rake on
> your
> > mast
> >
> >
> >
> >   _
> >
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> Aaron
> > Rouhi
> > Sent: November 26, 2013 7:31 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
> >
> >
> >
> > MK1 is stiff for sure but I just wish I had less weather helm. I
> generally
> > reef in anything above 10 knots...
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Aaron R.
> >
> > Admiral Maggie,
> >
> > 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> >
> > Annapolis, MD
> >
> >
> >
> >   _
> >
> > Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 18:46:07 -0400
> > From: dwight...@gmail.com
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
> >
> > The 30 MKI is just a much stiffer boat than the 30 MKII; see here:
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
> >
> > I believe that makes a huge difference in how these 2 very different
> C&C 30
> > designs perform going to weather, I believe this definitely has an
> effect
> > on
> > heel angle and propensity to round up...I would expect the 30 MKII to
> > outperform the 30 MKI in light air but in heavier air I would expect
> the
> > MKI
> > to outperform the MKII, even given that in most areas the MKII has a
> higher
> > rated speed potential and I believ that is due to the relative
> stiffnesses
> > of the boats...here on St. Margaret's Bay where we have mostly fresher
> > afternoon breezes the MKI rules
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Dwight Veinot
> >
> > Alianna
> > C&C 35 MKII
> >
> > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Nov 26, 2013 at 5:11 PM, Bill Coleman 
> wrote:
> >
> > Around the late 70's and early eighties the 20's and 39's were all
> getting
> > new, deeper rudders.  The swept back keels didn't / don't help.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Coleman
> >
> > C&C 39 animated_favicon1
> >
> >
> >
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> dwight
> > veinot
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 2:48 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
> >
> >
> >
> > I don't think it will ever sail as good as the MKI but there are other
> > advantages
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Dwight Veinot
> >
> > Alianna
> > C&C 35 MKII
> >
> > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 2:29 AM, Robert Gallagher 
> > wrote:
> >
> > My 30MKI had the mast raked back and the rigging on the tight side.
> Weather
> > helm yes, it could be a bear. Round ups never.  I could bury the rail
> deep
> > and just keep plowing along.
> > My 30MKII's rudder will stall then round up out of control with to
> much
> > sail
> > up and not enough tension on the backstay.  Too much heel and it gets
> > scary.
> >
> > All that being said im still learning on my MKII
> >
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___ This List is provided
> by
> > the
> > C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >
> >   _
> >
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3629/6368 - Release Date:
> 11/26/13
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> "Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
__

Re: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[Dennis C.]

Rod rigging can be re-headed fairly easily by a Navtec shop.  I used Florida 
Rigging and Hydraulic.  

Remove the rod, coil it to no LESS than 200 x rod diameter, strap it to an "X" 
made of 2x4's, ship it.

Remember, it will be a little shorter when you get it back.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: David Folsom 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:49 AM
>Subject: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging
> 
>
>
>I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this 
>topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.
>
>
>
>My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to replace 
>them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the tips? or 
>do I have to replace the entire spreaders?
>
>
>I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing, as I 
>can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have experience with 
>getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I will have to replace 
>the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the lower spreader to the top 
>of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay, and the lower shroud and lower 
>diagonal. The forestay is new.
>
>Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand the 
>fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.
>
>
>Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?
>
>
>thanks again for the helpful advice
>
>David Folsom
>
>Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36
>
>San Diego
>
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>___
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Stus-List Installing shaft zincs

[Ted Drossos]

Another option to help seat the zinc on the shaft is to use a "C" clamp rather 
than striking the zinc with a hammer. You are less likely to damage something 
using a clamp.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___
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Re: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[Dave Godwin]

David,

Well, I did find the costs for redoing the rod ends and tangs. In 1999 it was 
~$1,400.00 US so factor in inflation since then and that would come to about 
$1,900.00.

Maybe.

Good luck,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:15 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:

> David,
> 
> I had the same problems when I bought our current C&C 37, circa 1982. For me 
> at least it involved a good bit more than re-heading the rod. If you have the 
> same style Navtec rod ends and tangs that I did which may be likely given the 
> age of our boats then you may be in for a bit more that just re-heading the 
> rod.
> 
> As regards my spreaders, the tips were fine but the root/base of each were 
> worn away to the point that you could grab the shrouds and pull them fore and 
> aft a good foot. Or better. The riggers simply hell-arc’d new aluminum and 
> drilled new pivot holes and we were off to the races. Well, docks maybe. 
> Anyway, don’t know if that is a solution for the tips but worth a talk with 
> the riggers.
> 
> For the standing rigging, my Navtec tangs were the old “Frankenstein neck 
> plug” style, comprised of stainless steel heads screwed to an aluminum 
> through bolt/rod. As related to me by the riggers, these were supposed to 
> move to allow some fore and aft movement. Over time because of the 
> interaction of the stainless and aluminum they seized up. As a result of that 
> the tangs began to cut into the head of the rod ends.
> 
> We replaced all the tangs with the newer style stemball and stemball tang 
> technology. That was 13 years ago and I don’t have any distinct cost numbers 
> available for that work and they wouldn’t be useful by now anyway given 
> inflation.
> 
> As Joel said, there are other options. When I added roller furling at the 
> same time, I opted to go with wire rigging for the forestay.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 
> 
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 11:49 AM, David Folsom  wrote:
> 
>> I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this 
>> topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.
>> 
>> 
>> My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to 
>> replace them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the 
>> tips? or do I have to replace the entire spreaders?
>> 
>> I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing, as 
>> I can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have experience 
>> with getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I will have to 
>> replace the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the lower spreader 
>> to the top of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay, and the lower 
>> shroud and lower diagonal. The forestay is new.
>> 
>> Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand 
>> the fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.
>> 
>> Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?
>> 
>> thanks again for the helpful advice
>> 
>> David Folsom
>> Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36
>> San Diego
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Tim Sippel]

I believe your correct on the Elkhide, and it's a touch more expensive than 
doeskin.

I can tell you my doeskin cover went 7 years  and I just redid the top half of 
the wheel 

 

Tim Sippel 
GSM -  TADIG Group 
Rogers  Wireless (CANRW) 
Microcell (CANMC) 
( (647) 747-7381 
+ Email:   
 Toronto   

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 12:10 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

 

All the commercial wheel wraps seem to be made of Elkhide. Supposedly 
(according to my increasingly suspect memory) it doesn't rot or go really stiff 
with exposure. 

 

On 27 November 2013 08:56, Tim Sippel  wrote:

I picture a Cow on the bow , shivering .. half dressed.

Tim
 Toronto



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:52 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

You have to be careful though. One half has a lot of holes in it.

Rich

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:45, Wally Bryant  wrote:
>
> It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a
half a cow hide cost about $20.
>
> Wal
>
>
> Tim Sippel wrote:
>> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about
80
>> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch
it
>> sew it on ..
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to 
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Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut 
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êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez 
de communiq

Re: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[Dave Godwin]

David,

I had the same problems when I bought our current C&C 37, circa 1982. For me at 
least it involved a good bit more than re-heading the rod. If you have the same 
style Navtec rod ends and tangs that I did which may be likely given the age of 
our boats then you may be in for a bit more that just re-heading the rod.

As regards my spreaders, the tips were fine but the root/base of each were worn 
away to the point that you could grab the shrouds and pull them fore and aft a 
good foot. Or better. The riggers simply hell-arc’d new aluminum and drilled 
new pivot holes and we were off to the races. Well, docks maybe. Anyway, don’t 
know if that is a solution for the tips but worth a talk with the riggers.

For the standing rigging, my Navtec tangs were the old “Frankenstein neck plug” 
style, comprised of stainless steel heads screwed to an aluminum through 
bolt/rod. As related to me by the riggers, these were supposed to move to allow 
some fore and aft movement. Over time because of the interaction of the 
stainless and aluminum they seized up. As a result of that the tangs began to 
cut into the head of the rod ends.

We replaced all the tangs with the newer style stemball and stemball tang 
technology. That was 13 years ago and I don’t have any distinct cost numbers 
available for that work and they wouldn’t be useful by now anyway given 
inflation.

As Joel said, there are other options. When I added roller furling at the same 
time, I opted to go with wire rigging for the forestay.

Hope that helps.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 27, 2013, at 11:49 AM, David Folsom  wrote:

> I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this 
> topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.
> 
> 
> My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to 
> replace them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the 
> tips? or do I have to replace the entire spreaders?
> 
> I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing, as I 
> can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have experience with 
> getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I will have to 
> replace the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the lower spreader 
> to the top of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay, and the lower 
> shroud and lower diagonal. The forestay is new.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand 
> the fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.
> 
> Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?
> 
> thanks again for the helpful advice
> 
> David Folsom
> Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36
> San Diego
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Jim Watts]

All the commercial wheel wraps seem to be made of Elkhide. Supposedly
(according to my increasingly suspect memory) it doesn't rot or go really
stiff with exposure.


On 27 November 2013 08:56, Tim Sippel  wrote:

> I picture a Cow on the bow , shivering .. half dressed.
>
> Tim
>  Toronto
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
> Knowles
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:52 AM
> To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
>
> You have to be careful though. One half has a lot of holes in it.
>
> Rich
>
> > On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:45, Wally Bryant  wrote:
> >
> > It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a
> half a cow hide cost about $20.
> >
> > Wal
> >
> >
> > Tim Sippel wrote:
> >> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about
> 80
> >> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch
> it
> >> sew it on ..
> >
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be
> subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived.
> If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review,
> dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content
> is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored
> as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect
> our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted
> any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please
> notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any
> computer or any storage medium without printing a copy.
>
> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son
> représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel
> en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous
> les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements
> applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les
> courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les
> risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce
> moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser
> immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces
> jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support de données sans en imprimer une
> copie.
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>



-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[sam . c . salter]

 It's on the shelf marked "Snake Oil!sam :-)  From: dwightSent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 7:45 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing



















Where did you find the Marvel Mystery
oil…Canadian Tire used to have it but no longer

 









From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: November 27, 2013 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing



 



I remove my t-stat, then
I run anti-freeze through the motor by disconnecting the intake hose from the
seacock and shoving it in the antifreeze bottle. I put a huge bucket under the
exhaust and when anti-freeze starts coming out of the exhaust I'm done. No
messing around running the motor and complicated hose runs. Mine is a raw water
cooled A4. I put a few drops of marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole and
turn the engine over manually a few times to lubricate the valves and I'm done.
In the spring I reverse the process and pull freshwater through the motor and
catch the anti-freeze in the same bucket before launch.



 





Steve





Suhana, C&C 32





Toronto







 



On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at
4:52 AM, dwight 
wrote:





If you don’t run the
engine after the oil change the new oil will just sit in the sump all winter
long…best to give her a run and get the new stuff where it’s needed…how long
you have to run to achieve that I am not sure but I change oil for the winter
storage before my last trip to the marina, for me that’s about a 20 minute run
under power.

 













From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: November 26, 2013 11:59 PM




To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing





 





I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old
oil out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil?  I have
just been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil circulated.
(Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp









 



--



Jonathan



Indigo C&C 35III



SOUTHPORT CT










On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot 
wrote:











Chuck



Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it
is equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil
















Dwight Veinot



Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII



Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS





 



On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S 
wrote:





Yeah Dwight,
I guess you are right.  I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine
oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature before
winterizing.  
I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase.  I
have a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink, then
the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the manual
bilge pump.  This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the pumps
and will use again next year.     



 



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ













From: "dwight veinot" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com



Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM






Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing





Chuck



If I remember you have a Universal M4-30.  Is yours
your water cooled and that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure
the thermostat opened.  No need to do that if your engine has a heat
exchanger like mine does
















Dwight Veinot



Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII



Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS





 



On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S 
wrote:





I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today.  Nice to have
that option.  It works.  It is environmentally friendly since it captures
antifreeze escaping the exhaust.   

My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere because
of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks.   It works.  It
is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust.
  But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed
the 15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel.   Had to run for about
twenty minutes to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was
open.  I started w 4 1/2 gallons of pink RV antifreeze.  The engine
sucked up about 1 1/2 gallons.  Used the rest to winterize the ice box
drain, foot pump, 

Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Tim Sippel]

I picture a Cow on the bow , shivering .. half dressed. 

Tim 
 Toronto 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:52 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

You have to be careful though. One half has a lot of holes in it. 

Rich

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:45, Wally Bryant  wrote:
> 
> It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a
half a cow hide cost about $20.
> 
> Wal
> 
> 
> Tim Sippel wrote:
>> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about
80
>> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch
it
>> sew it on ..
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to 
copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not 
the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or 
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regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure 
and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by 
e-mail. If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the 
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printing a copy.

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Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again

[Lee Youngblood]

OK, so who as the last 35-I and who's got the first 35-II.  Hum, they 
may not want to tell that story.




I seem to remember they didn't start over at hull 1 with the 35 Mk.2 
I think they just continued the numbering sequentially from the 
last 35 Mk.1 built.


Ken H.


On 26 November 2013 15:08, Jim Watts 
<paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote:


Lee, it looks like you have hull # 252, Mithrandir is #224. I 
thought they were all built in NOL, I don't know why yours would 
prefix ZCC and theirs CCY...ZCC is C&C @ NOL, CCY references Calder 
Building Co. in Arizona.


I see Dwight has just posted that there were only 147 built, so now 
I'm not sure. Maybe they prefixed the 35-2 hull numbers with 2 so 
you would have #52? I dunno.




On 26 November 2013 10:15, Lee Youngblood 
<leeyoungbl...@earthlink.net> 
wrote:


Hi All,

Just how many 35-IIs  did C&C build in 1974?
I know there was something about the different codes but don't remember.

Thanks, Lee

Lee Youngblood
s/v Simplicity in Seattle
1974 C&C 35-II
Hull #ZCC352520374



Bill and Gaynor
Mithrandir
'74 C&C 35 MkII
HIN: CCY352241174



--
Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[Joel Aronson]

David,

I had the rod re-headed two years ago.  Navtec recommends it be done every
10 years.  I don'r recall the cost, but it was around $1,500.  Chef Dave
replaced his with new rod several years ago (also on a 35/3).  I think it
was around 8k, but if he is lurking out there maybe he will chime in.
 There are cheaper alternative, including wire and Dux.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 11:49 AM, David Folsom  wrote:

> I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this
> topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.
>
>
> My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to
> replace them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the
> tips? or do I have to replace the entire spreaders?
>
> I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing,
> as I can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have
> experience with getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I
> will have to replace the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the
> lower spreader to the top of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay,
> and the lower shroud and lower diagonal. The forestay is new.
>
> Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand
> the fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.
>
> Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?
>
> thanks again for the helpful advice
>
> David Folsom
> Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36
> San Diego
>
> ___
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>
>


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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Rich Knowles]

You have to be careful though. One half has a lot of holes in it. 

Rich

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:45, Wally Bryant  wrote:
> 
> It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a half a 
> cow hide cost about $20.
> 
> Wal
> 
> 
> Tim Sippel wrote:
>> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
>> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
>> sew it on ..
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Tim Sippel]

Cow hide.. I wonder if Cowhide is better than Doeskin wheel wise, I
imagine its thicker .. .



Tim Sippel 
GSM -  TADIG Group
Rogers  Wireless (CANRW)
Microcell (CANMC) 
* (647) 747-7381 
* Email:  
 Toronto 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a 
half a cow hide cost about $20.

Wal


Tim Sippel wrote:
> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about
80
> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
> sew it on ..


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Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[David Folsom]

I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this
topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.


My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to
replace them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the
tips? or do I have to replace the entire spreaders?

I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing, as
I can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have experience
with getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I will have to
replace the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the lower spreader
to the top of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay, and the lower
shroud and lower diagonal. The forestay is new.

Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand
the fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.

Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?

thanks again for the helpful advice

David Folsom
Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36
San Diego
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Wally Bryant]

It's not as hard as it sounds.  I did the same, only here in Mexico a 
half a cow hide cost about $20.


Wal


Tim Sippel wrote:

I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
sew it on ..



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Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[kelly petew]

Jim,
My MKII has leather on wheel.  
 
You will like it.
 
One comment though - If you have a canvas wheel cover, make sure there's enough 
room once the leather is installed.
I have a canvas cover, and it's a very tight fit.  
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
C&C 30MKII
Deltaville, Va
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - sprit

[Bill Coleman]

The best reason is that if you decide you want a new dock box, you just go
jousting for one in someone else's slip, like my buddy just did:

 

 

Jousting..jpg

Actually, it was the first time ever his Luke prop didn't open!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

 

 

There are some really, really good reasons for the fixed sprit:

 

1- We can make it stiffer.  That will be important for Code 0s and kites 

in big breeze.

2- It helps the rating a ton.

3- Some of the early buyers have expressed interest in racing HPR. A 

fixed sprit is a requirement of the HPR Rules.

4- At the speed this boat will go, keeping the bow seal watertight will 

be pretty much impossible.  That's ok I guess around the cans. You can 

just bail between races.  Offshore, not having a big hole in the front 

is appealing to me.

 

The sprit will be easy to flip up at the dock, or remove for the road.  

No need for a 40' slip.

 

Will

 

 

> 

 

 

-- 

Will Harris

 

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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Jim Watts]

Regarding getting the wheel off, I use a very large crescent wrench behind
the wheel hub; it gives controlled force at exactly the right place. Any
large forked piece of metal will do...


On 27 November 2013 07:23, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> John,
>
> According to them, no. Don’t get cold, don’t get hot.
>
> I know a few people who have done this and they really love it.
>
>
>
>  All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:37 AM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
>
> That's an interesting idea.  Do you know if they get hot?
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I’m going a different route than doing a leather cover. This year, I’m
> sending my wheel to ColorWheelz (http://www.colorwheelz.com). Been
> herring a lot of good things about it, especially that it doesn’t absorb
> water (keeping my hands and sailing gloves dry).
>
> Best wishes to all for a joyous holiday, along with a happy and healthy
> (and breezy) new year.
>
>
>  All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Joel Aronson]

Dave,

Sta Set is not considered a performance rope.  I'd look at VPC for
halyards.  Lower stretch without breaking the bank.  You could go with
Dyneema and covers for clutches if you want high-tech, but it will probably
cost you a lot of $$ per pound.  There is no reason to buy new shackles.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 10:32 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Cajun Ropes: http://www.cajunrope.com/
>
> They did a full replacement set for all of my lines a few years back, and
> they were great to work with.  Quality workmanship, good materials (Wichard
> shackles, etc.) and a great price.  And delivered in a short time frame.
>
> Keep in mind that I’m a cruiser, not a racer.  So the Cajun may not be
> right for you if you’re looking for exotics...
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:26 AM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
>
> I’m in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing
> that is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I
> did this 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious
> little left afterwards so I’m inclined to do the same again.
>
> Anyway, I’m out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and
> was wondering what others were using. Like many, I’d like to keep weight
> aloft as low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that
> crew won’t complain. Recommendations?
>
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Frederick G Street]

Cajun Ropes: http://www.cajunrope.com/

They did a full replacement set for all of my lines a few years back, and they 
were great to work with.  Quality workmanship, good materials (Wichard 
shackles, etc.) and a great price.  And delivered in a short time frame.

Keep in mind that I’m a cruiser, not a racer.  So the Cajun may not be right 
for you if you’re looking for exotics...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:26 AM, Dave Godwin  wrote:

> I’m in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that 
> is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did this 
> 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious little 
> left afterwards so I’m inclined to do the same again.
> 
> Anyway, I’m out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was 
> wondering what others were using. Like many, I’d like to keep weight aloft as 
> low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew won’t 
> complain. Recommendations?
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

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Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dave Godwin]

I’m in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that is 
necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did this 14 
years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious little left 
afterwards so I’m inclined to do the same again.

Anyway, I’m out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was 
wondering what others were using. Like many, I’d like to keep weight aloft as 
low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew won’t 
complain. Recommendations?

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Edd Schillay]

John,

According to them, no. Don’t get cold, don’t get hot. 

I know a few people who have done this and they really love it. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:37 AM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:

> That's an interesting idea.  Do you know if they get hot?
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>>  I’m going a different route than doing a leather cover. This year, I’m 
>> sending my wheel to ColorWheelz (http://www.colorwheelz.com). Been herring a 
>> lot of good things about it, especially that it doesn’t absorb water 
>> (keeping my hands and sailing gloves dry). 
>> 
>>  Best wishes to all for a joyous holiday, along with a happy and healthy 
>> (and breezy) new year. 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>>  All the best,
>> 
>>  Edd
>> 
>> 
>>  Edd M. Schillay
>>  Starship Enterprise
>>  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>  City Island, NY 
>>  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>> 
>> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Tim Sippel]

Yup ,
That's why I went  from scratch ..
Hmm I'm out of leather and Tandy website says ..

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/home/department/leather/9301-36
.aspx

that's a few wheels , spinnaker pole ends and all kinds of stuff!



Tim 
C&C 33Mkii 
 Toronto 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

Unless you watch on EBay for one to come up. I think I paid about %60
for the gray elk skin one I bought there. 

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Sippel
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 8:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$ 

Tim
 Toronto 





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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - sprit

[Joel Aronson]

Will,

Thanks for the clarification!  I hope she sells as well as she sails!
I can't wait to see the 41!

Joel


On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 10:13 AM, Will Harris wrote:

> There are some really, really good reasons for the fixed sprit:
>
> 1- We can make it stiffer.  That will be important for Code 0s and kites
> in big breeze.
> 2- It helps the rating a ton.
> 3- Some of the early buyers have expressed interest in racing HPR. A fixed
> sprit is a requirement of the HPR Rules.
> 4- At the speed this boat will go, keeping the bow seal watertight will be
> pretty much impossible.  That's ok I guess around the cans. You can just
> bail between races.  Offshore, not having a big hole in the front is
> appealing to me.
>
> The sprit will be easy to flip up at the dock, or remove for the road.  No
> need for a 40' slip.
>
> Will
>
>
>
>>
>
> --
> Will Harris
> Waterline Systems
>
> 716-531-6088
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Dave Godwin]

Another +1 for Boatleather. I’ve done my 40” wheel twice, once with the foam 
and once without. As someone said earlier, a good wintertime project. I also 
had them cut me covers for the side and back grab-rails on my dodger. 

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 27, 2013, at 10:12 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> +1 on the Boatleather cover.  I did mine several winters ago, and the results 
> have been great!
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Nov 26, 2013, at 7:51 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
> 
>> Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.  Have 
>> bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not difficult but 
>> takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go with foam under it.  
>> A great winter project.
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy  wrote:
>>> 
>>> One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the wheel 
>>> on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of the 
>>> season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might have 
>>> done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with boatleather.com or 
>>> other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on the market, I have 
>>> had trouble finding many alternatives.  Recommendations are welcome.
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - sprit

[Will Harris]

There are some really, really good reasons for the fixed sprit:

1- We can make it stiffer.  That will be important for Code 0s and kites 
in big breeze.

2- It helps the rating a ton.
3- Some of the early buyers have expressed interest in racing HPR. A 
fixed sprit is a requirement of the HPR Rules.
4- At the speed this boat will go, keeping the bow seal watertight will 
be pretty much impossible.  That's ok I guess around the cans. You can 
just bail between races.  Offshore, not having a big hole in the front 
is appealing to me.


The sprit will be easy to flip up at the dock, or remove for the road.  
No need for a 40' slip.


Will







--
Will Harris
Waterline Systems

716-531-6088


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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Frederick G Street]

+1 on the Boatleather cover.  I did mine several winters ago, and the results 
have been great!

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 26, 2013, at 7:51 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:

> Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.  Have 
> bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not difficult but 
> takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go with foam under it.  
> A great winter project.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy  wrote:
>> 
>> One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the wheel 
>> on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of the season 
>> around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might have done it 
>> before.  First, does anyone have experience with boatleather.com or other 
>> suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on the market, I have had 
>> trouble finding many alternatives.  Recommendations are welcome.

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Stus-List Oil Extractor Pump recommendations for Yanmar 2GM20F?

[Robert Abbott]

Kevin:

Our boat has a Yanmar 2GMFholds 2 liters of oil.we use a simple 
Pella 2000 oil extractorworks fine and didn't cost a fortune.


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/11/26 12:06 AM, Kevin Driscoll wrote:


Thanks to everyone who chimed in with recommendations and well wishes 
on our new ownership of a C&C 30-2.


Sunday I tried my hand at an oil change, but a borrowed oil pump from 
another skipper wouldn't cut it because the hose that inserts into 
dipstick hole on my Yanmar 2GM20F was too large. I haven't measured 
the hole, but it is quite small.


Could anyone recommend an oil extractor pump that will work / fit the 
2GM20F?


Does anyone know of a C&C owners group in Oregon, or "One Design" 
rendezvous / race? I heard rumor there may be one.


Thanks again,
Kevin
C&C 30 - 2 "Osprey"

Sent from a mobile device.



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Re: Stus-List Thanks for the welcome

[Bill and Gaynor Hoyne]

Hi Paul,
Yes that was us. I spent many hours in contorted positions getting to 
know the more obscure parts of the boat.

Bill






ForwardedMessage.eml

Subject:
Re: Stus-List Thanks for the welcome
From:
Jim Watts 
Date:
26/11/2013 10:08 PM

To:
1 CnC List 


Acetone makes everything fun. Or at least forgotten.


On 26 November 2013 19:50, Paul Baker > wrote:
Welcome, is that Mithrandir that's now down at Oak Bay Marina? If so, I 
believe we were out on the hard up in Sidney back in the summer 
together.  I spent a very enjoyable week working with copious amounts of 
acetone and wielding a buffer.  Wait, did I say enjoyable?

Cheers,
Paul

Orange Crush
1974 27 MkII
Sidney, BC.



On 13-11-26 09:39 AM, Bill and Gaynor Hoyne wrote:
Thanks everyone for your kind words!! I am looking forward to fun, 
foibles, and frustrations of sailing.
I am spending the winter reading books and marine cataloges ( I knew 
there was a reason I needed  to go to work every now and again:-) ).  I 
am working on the electrics ( battery, panel, wireing etc).


I would love to come to the PNW rendezvous next August. Hopefully that 
works with the work schedule.


No plans to move to Victoria, there is too much skiing to be had here in 
the mountains. Cold and sunny beats damp and rainy:-)


We have sailed her with various sail configurations (however too chicken 
to fly the spinniker just yet) and I am amazed how easily she sails in 
light to 20+ winds. Almost too much fun.


Bill and Gaynor
Mithrandir
'74 C&C 35 MkII
HIN: CCY352241174




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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[dwight]

Where did you find the Marvel Mystery oil.Canadian Tire used to have it but
no longer

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: November 27, 2013 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

 

I remove my t-stat, then I run anti-freeze through the motor by
disconnecting the intake hose from the seacock and shoving it in the
antifreeze bottle. I put a huge bucket under the exhaust and when
anti-freeze starts coming out of the exhaust I'm done. No messing around
running the motor and complicated hose runs. Mine is a raw water cooled A4.
I put a few drops of marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole and turn the
engine over manually a few times to lubricate the valves and I'm done. In
the spring I reverse the process and pull freshwater through the motor and
catch the anti-freeze in the same bucket before launch.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 4:52 AM, dwight  wrote:

If you don't run the engine after the oil change the new oil will just sit
in the sump all winter long.best to give her a run and get the new stuff
where it's needed.how long you have to run to achieve that I am not sure but
I change oil for the winter storage before my last trip to the marina, for
me that's about a 20 minute run under power.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: November 26, 2013 11:59 PM


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

 

I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old oil
out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil?  I have just
been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil circulated.
(Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp

 

--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot  wrote:

Chuck

Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it is
equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

Yeah Dwight,
I guess you are right.  I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine
oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature
before winterizing.  
I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase.  I have
a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink, then
the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the manual
bilge pump.  This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the pumps and
will use again next year. 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


From: "dwight veinot" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM


Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

Chuck

If I remember you have a Universal M4-30.  Is yours your water cooled and
that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure the thermostat
opened.  No need to do that if your engine has a heat exchanger like mine
does




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today.  Nice to have that option.  It
works.  It is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping
the exhaust.   

My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere
because of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks.   It works.  It is
environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust.
But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed the
15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel.   Had to run for about twenty minutes
to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was open.  I started w
4 1/2 gallons of pink RV antifreeze.  The engine sucked up about 1 1/2
gallons.  Used the rest to winterize the ice box drain, foot pump, sink
traps, and bilge pumps.

Love the list for new ideas!

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


From: "dwight veinot" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:26:30 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

 

Another 35 MKII owner on the list...only 147 of that design ever built, they
are senior citizens by some standards but many are still active and bringing
lots of sailing pleasure to their owners, 

There's no reason to change a good practice, 21 years is way long enough to
prove it's a good one




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 10:16 AM, Ken Rodmell  wrote:

On my 35 Mk II, I've been using the same system for 21 years. It can get
very cold up here in Toronto and I've had no problems.

I hang a bucket containing about a gallon of the antifreeze mix from the
stern rail directly below the exhaust pipe,. A hose is led from the bucket
through the

Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[j...@svpaws.net]

That's an interesting idea.  Do you know if they get hot?

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>   I’m going a different route than doing a leather cover. This year, I’m 
> sending my wheel to ColorWheelz (http://www.colorwheelz.com). Been herring a 
> lot of good things about it, especially that it doesn’t absorb water (keeping 
> my hands and sailing gloves dry). 
> 
>   Best wishes to all for a joyous holiday, along with a happy and healthy 
> (and breezy) new year. 
> 
> 
>   
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:03 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>> 
>> My girlfriend did this as a winter project last year. I think ours was from 
>> sailrite, not sure, it came with the boat and was not installed. My autohelm 
>> is the 4000, I think .. anyway, you just need an allen key to undo the 
>> fasteners that hold the wheel pilot to the wheel. Once that's off, remove 
>> the main nut from the wheel axle(?) then slide the wheel back. You may need 
>> to use some force to slide the wheel off of the axle. I banged on mine as I 
>> pulled on it .. wrong move, I put some dents in the centre emblem cap .. 
>> edson sent a replacement free of charge but I have yet to install it, not 
>> really sure how. If you're going to help get the wheel off with any tapping 
>> or hammering, use a rubber mallet and maybe a piece of leather or something. 
>> Don't pull on the wheel, pull on the spokes close to the centre to minimize 
>> any bending forces.
>> 
>> Watch the video at the bottom of this page:
>> http://www.sailrite.com/Leather-Steering-Wheel-Cover-Kit#.UpX7P2RgbsE
>> 
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 8:50 AM, Tim Sippel  
>>> wrote:
>>> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
>>> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
>>> sew it on ..
>>> An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$
>>> 
>>> Tim
>>>  Toronto
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>> j...@svpaws.net
>>> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 8:51 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
>>> 
>>> Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.
>>> Have bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not
>>> difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go
>>> with foam under it.  A great winter project.
>>> 
>>> John
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>> > On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy 
>>> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the
>>> wheel on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of
>>> the season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might
>>> have done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with
>>> boatleather.com or other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on
>>> the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives.
>>> Recommendations are welcome.
>>> >
>>> > Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know
>>> what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive
>>> mounted on the wheel.  Can someone give me the steps required there?
>>> >
>>> > Thanks in advance!
>>> >
>>> > Jim Reinardy
>>> > C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
>>> > Milwaukee, WI
>>> >
>>> > P.S.  Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is
>>> still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago
>>> that he thought was sold but is back on the market.
>>> >
>>> > Sent from my iPad
>>> > ___
>>> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be 
>>> subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. 
>>> If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, 
>>> dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content 
>>> is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored 
>>> as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect 
>>> our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted 
>>> any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please 
>>> notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any 
>>> computer or any storage medium without printing a copy.
>>> 
>>> Ce courriel (

Re: Stus-List Happy Thanksgiving

[Rick Brass]

Andrew;

How did you fare in the storms last night? Any excitement?

And did you get to Beaufort before the cells got to Adams Creek/Oriental?

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 8:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Happy Thanksgiving

Hear, hear!

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260





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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Rick Brass]

Three arm gear puller. You can rent one from Auto Zone for a couple of bucks
(and maybe from Canadian Tire).

 

And if your wheel is stuck that badly, it needs to get taken off and have
the shaft lubed anyway.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

 

You may need to use some force to slide the wheel off of the axle. I banged
on mine as I pulled on it .. wrong move, If you're going to help get the
wheel off with any tapping or hammering, use a rubber mallet and maybe a
piece of leather or something. Don't pull on the wheel, pull on the spokes
close to the centre to minimize any bending forces.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Oil Extractor Pump recommendations for Yanmar 2GM20F?

[dreuge]

Hi,

I have been very pleased for several years now using the LiquiVac Oil 
extractor.  It works much better than more expensive extractors I've tried.  
For under $30, it is hard to beat. 

Here is a link to the unit sold at Lowes.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_141690-60928-2005_4294857393+5003701_4294937087?productId=1016407

--
Paul Eugenio
S/V Johanna Rose
1979 C&C 29
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Rick Brass]

Unless you watch on EBay for one to come up. I think I paid about %60 for the 
gray elk skin one I bought there. 

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 8:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$ 

Tim
 Toronto 





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Re: Stus-List Prop pitch advice needed

[Rick Brass]

All of the manufacturers of folding props (and their equivalents like the
flexible plastic Kiwi Prop) have a spot on their website where you can get a
recommendation for the optimum prop based on factors like boat size, type,
and weight, engine HP and max RPM, etc.

 

Since you are looking for a replacement for a fixed prop, I decided to look
at the website for Michigan Wheel to see if they offered the same service.
They do. The web link is:

 

http://www.miwheel.com/propellers/prop-it-right/

 

It is actually a very complete questionnaire and asks questions about your
boat and engine (as do the other sites I've used), but in addition it asks
why you are replacing the old prop and what you want to accomplish by
changing. It also asks what diameter prop you want.  

 

I'm kind of surprised you have a 15" diameter prop when the OEM props were
12 or 14. I know a J/30 with Yanmar 3GMF15 and 7/8 dia shaft uses a 12x9 2
blade prop. If 1" of diameter has effect roughly equivalent to 2" of pitch
(which I understand to be the rule of thumb) then a 15" prop with the same
thrust would be something like a 15x3 or 15x4 - and that's not very
plausible. I wonder if your boat is over propped.

 

Have you noticed and a "thumping" noise or vibration at higher RPMs? Can you
get max RPM out of the engine when in gear? Do you get hull speed at the RPM
of max torque (somewhere near 80% of max engine RPM, usually)?

 

Go to a prop manufacturer and see what they consider optimal for your boat.

 

Someone else suggested taking your prop to a prop shop for measurement. I'd
also encourage taking it to a prop shop so they can evaluate the likely
cause of the damage. You're in fresh water and out of the water for at least
6 months a year, so I wouldn't expect corrosion to be a normal issue. Heck,
my 38 has spent almost all of the last 20 years in salt water (24/7/365 for
a couple of years at a time, then hauled for bottom paint) and the bronze
prop has some barnacle circles o n it, but no evidence of corrosion. If you
have corrosion from a "hot" marina it would be prudent to take a close look
at all the bronze through hull fittings in addition to the prop.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi -1976 C&C 38 mk1

la Belle Aurore -1975 C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 


At 07:53 AM 26/11/2013, you wrote:



Hello all

I have been watching the list for a while but never contributed until now.
Couple years ago we bought a 1980 C&C 30 MKI from the original owner.
wonderful wonderful boat! This was our first boat and things have been a bit
daunting at times- but I cant tell you how much the list helps. 

When we pulled her this year we had some serious prop corrosion issues. We
are still trying to assess the cause  (anode was replaced last spring but
perhaps I didn't get good contact)but regardless we will need to replace the
prop. It is a 15 inch radius 2 blade fixed but the erosion is such that I
cannot read the pitch- how do I figure this out? 

Any suggestions as to suppliers as well?- we will likely stick with the 2
blade fixed. has any one had experience with the urethane perfect pitch
props?

Thanks in advance

Joanne Dowd
SV Islay
Hamilton ON

Sent from Windows Mail

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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Edd Schillay]

Listers,

I’m going a different route than doing a leather cover. This year, I’m 
sending my wheel to ColorWheelz (http://www.colorwheelz.com). Been herring a 
lot of good things about it, especially that it doesn’t absorb water (keeping 
my hands and sailing gloves dry). 

Best wishes to all for a joyous holiday, along with a happy and healthy 
(and breezy) new year. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website




On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:03 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> My girlfriend did this as a winter project last year. I think ours was from 
> sailrite, not sure, it came with the boat and was not installed. My autohelm 
> is the 4000, I think .. anyway, you just need an allen key to undo the 
> fasteners that hold the wheel pilot to the wheel. Once that's off, remove the 
> main nut from the wheel axle(?) then slide the wheel back. You may need to 
> use some force to slide the wheel off of the axle. I banged on mine as I 
> pulled on it .. wrong move, I put some dents in the centre emblem cap .. 
> edson sent a replacement free of charge but I have yet to install it, not 
> really sure how. If you're going to help get the wheel off with any tapping 
> or hammering, use a rubber mallet and maybe a piece of leather or something. 
> Don't pull on the wheel, pull on the spokes close to the centre to minimize 
> any bending forces.
> 
> Watch the video at the bottom of this page:
> http://www.sailrite.com/Leather-Steering-Wheel-Cover-Kit#.UpX7P2RgbsE
> 
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 8:50 AM, Tim Sippel  wrote:
> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
> sew it on ..
> An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$
> 
> Tim
>  Toronto
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> j...@svpaws.net
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 8:51 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
> 
> Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.
> Have bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not
> difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go
> with foam under it.  A great winter project.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> > On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy 
> wrote:
> >
> > One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the
> wheel on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of
> the season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might
> have done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with
> boatleather.com or other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on
> the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives.
> Recommendations are welcome.
> >
> > Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know
> what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive
> mounted on the wheel.  Can someone give me the steps required there?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Jim Reinardy
> > C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
> > Milwaukee, WI
> >
> > P.S.  Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is
> still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago
> that he thought was sold but is back on the market.
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject 
> to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are 
> not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, 
> distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly 
> prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by 
> applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. 
> E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you 
> communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us 
> immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or 
> any storage medium without printing a copy.
> 
> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et 
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit 
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son 
> représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en 
> tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être 

Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Hoyt, Mike]

Isn't the sweet spot on a 30-1 only starting at 15+ knots? 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Curtis
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

yea i'm with Ddwight on this one,
My C&C30 mk1 # 675 loves 11 thru17 knots.
I dont start thinking of a reef till i'm over 17 knots. I usley drop
down to the working 115% first. If needed I will put the 1st Reef in
around 18-22 knots.
I have hade some uncontroled steering falling off the wind when
tacking. that was my fault. not the boat.

1981 C&C 30 MK1 #675

Beaufort, Sc.



On 11/26/13, dwight  wrote:
> I don't think you should have to reef that soon.what is the rake on
your
> mast
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Aaron
> Rouhi
> Sent: November 26, 2013 7:31 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
>
>
> MK1 is stiff for sure but I just wish I had less weather helm. I
generally
> reef in anything above 10 knots...
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Aaron R.
>
> Admiral Maggie,
>
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
>
> Annapolis, MD
>
>
>
>   _
>
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 18:46:07 -0400
> From: dwight...@gmail.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
> The 30 MKI is just a much stiffer boat than the 30 MKII; see here:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
>
> I believe that makes a huge difference in how these 2 very different
C&C 30
> designs perform going to weather, I believe this definitely has an
effect
> on
> heel angle and propensity to round up...I would expect the 30 MKII to
> outperform the 30 MKI in light air but in heavier air I would expect
the
> MKI
> to outperform the MKII, even given that in most areas the MKII has a
higher
> rated speed potential and I believ that is due to the relative
stiffnesses
> of the boats...here on St. Margaret's Bay where we have mostly fresher
> afternoon breezes the MKI rules
>
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2013 at 5:11 PM, Bill Coleman 
wrote:
>
> Around the late 70's and early eighties the 20's and 39's were all
getting
> new, deeper rudders.  The swept back keels didn't / don't help.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 animated_favicon1
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
dwight
> veinot
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 2:48 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
>
>
> I don't think it will ever sail as good as the MKI but there are other
> advantages
>
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 2:29 AM, Robert Gallagher 
> wrote:
>
> My 30MKI had the mast raked back and the rigging on the tight side.
Weather
> helm yes, it could be a bear. Round ups never.  I could bury the rail
deep
> and just keep plowing along.
> My 30MKII's rudder will stall then round up out of control with to
much
> sail
> up and not enough tension on the backstay.  Too much heel and it gets
> scary.
>
> All that being said im still learning on my MKII
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> ___ This List is provided
by
> the
> C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>   _
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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11/26/13
>
>


-- 
"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat

___
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[Stevan Plavsa]

I remove my t-stat, then I run anti-freeze through the motor by
disconnecting the intake hose from the seacock and shoving it in the
antifreeze bottle. I put a huge bucket under the exhaust and when
anti-freeze starts coming out of the exhaust I'm done. No messing around
running the motor and complicated hose runs. Mine is a raw water cooled A4.
I put a few drops of marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole and turn
the engine over manually a few times to lubricate the valves and I'm done.
In the spring I reverse the process and pull freshwater through the motor
and catch the anti-freeze in the same bucket before launch.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 4:52 AM, dwight  wrote:

>If you don’t run the engine after the oil change the new oil will
> just sit in the sump all winter long…best to give her a run and get the new
> stuff where it’s needed…how long you have to run to achieve that I am not
> sure but I change oil for the winter storage before my last trip to the
> marina, for me that’s about a 20 minute run under power.
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> Indigo
> *Sent:* November 26, 2013 11:59 PM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
>
>
> I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old
> oil out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil?  I have
> just been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil
> circulated. (Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp
>
>
>
> --
>
> Jonathan
>
> Indigo C&C 35III
>
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
>
> On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot  wrote:
>
>   Chuck
>
> Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it is
> equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil
>
>
>Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S  wrote:
>
> Yeah Dwight,
> I guess you are right.  I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine
> oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature
> before winterizing.
> I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase.  I
> have a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink,
> then the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the
> manual bilge pump.  This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the
> pumps and will use again next year.
>
>
>
> Chuck
> *Resolute*
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>  --
>
> *From: *"dwight veinot" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Sent: *Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM
>
>
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
> Chuck
>
> If I remember you have a Universal M4-30.  Is yours your water cooled and
> that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure the thermostat
> opened.  No need to do that if your engine has a heat exchanger like mine
> does
>
>
>Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S  wrote:
>
> I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today.  Nice to have that option.  It
> works.  It is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze
> escaping the exhaust.
>
> My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere
> because of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks.   It works.  It is
> environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust.
>   But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed
> the 15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel.   Had to run for about twenty
> minutes to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was open.  I
> started w 4 1/2 gallons of pink RV antifreeze.  The engine sucked up about
> 1 1/2 gallons.  Used the rest to winterize the ice box drain, foot pump,
> sink traps, and bilge pumps.
>
> Love the list for new ideas!
>
>
>
> Chuck
> *Resolute*
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>  --
>
> *From: *"dwight veinot" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:26:30 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
>
>
> Another 35 MKII owner on the list...only 147 of that design ever built,
> they are senior citizens by some standards but many are still active and
> bringing lots of sailing pleasure to their owners,
>
> There's no reason to change a good practice, 21 years is way long enough
> to prove it's a good one
>
>
>Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 10:16 AM, Ken Rodmell  wrote:
>
> On my 35 Mk II, I’ve been using the same system for 21 years. It can get
> very cold up here in Toronto and I’ve had no problems.
>
> I hang a bucket containing about a gallon of the antifreeze mix from the
> stern rail directly below the exhaust pipe,. A h

Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Curtis]

yea i'm with Ddwight on this one,
My C&C30 mk1 # 675 loves 11 thru17 knots.
I dont start thinking of a reef till i'm over 17 knots. I usley drop
down to the working 115% first. If needed I will put the 1st Reef in
around 18-22 knots.
I have hade some uncontroled steering falling off the wind when
tacking. that was my fault. not the boat.

1981 C&C 30 MK1 #675

Beaufort, Sc.



On 11/26/13, dwight  wrote:
> I don't think you should have to reef that soon.what is the rake on your
> mast
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
> Rouhi
> Sent: November 26, 2013 7:31 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
>
>
> MK1 is stiff for sure but I just wish I had less weather helm. I generally
> reef in anything above 10 knots...
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Aaron R.
>
> Admiral Maggie,
>
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
>
> Annapolis, MD
>
>
>
>   _
>
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 18:46:07 -0400
> From: dwight...@gmail.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
> The 30 MKI is just a much stiffer boat than the 30 MKII; see here:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
>
> I believe that makes a huge difference in how these 2 very different C&C 30
> designs perform going to weather, I believe this definitely has an effect
> on
> heel angle and propensity to round up...I would expect the 30 MKII to
> outperform the 30 MKI in light air but in heavier air I would expect the
> MKI
> to outperform the MKII, even given that in most areas the MKII has a higher
> rated speed potential and I believ that is due to the relative stiffnesses
> of the boats...here on St. Margaret's Bay where we have mostly fresher
> afternoon breezes the MKI rules
>
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2013 at 5:11 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
>
> Around the late 70's and early eighties the 20's and 39's were all getting
> new, deeper rudders.  The swept back keels didn't / don't help.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 animated_favicon1
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
> veinot
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 2:48 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
>
>
>
> I don't think it will ever sail as good as the MKI but there are other
> advantages
>
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 2:29 AM, Robert Gallagher 
> wrote:
>
> My 30MKI had the mast raked back and the rigging on the tight side. Weather
> helm yes, it could be a bear. Round ups never.  I could bury the rail deep
> and just keep plowing along.
> My 30MKII's rudder will stall then round up out of control with to much
> sail
> up and not enough tension on the backstay.  Too much heel and it gets
> scary.
>
> All that being said im still learning on my MKII
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> ___ This List is provided by
> the
> C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>   _
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3629/6368 - Release Date: 11/26/13
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Stevan Plavsa]

My girlfriend did this as a winter project last year. I think ours was from
sailrite, not sure, it came with the boat and was not installed. My
autohelm is the 4000, I think .. anyway, you just need an allen key to undo
the fasteners that hold the wheel pilot to the wheel. Once that's off,
remove the main nut from the wheel axle(?) then slide the wheel back. You
may need to use some force to slide the wheel off of the axle. I banged on
mine as I pulled on it .. wrong move, I put some dents in the centre emblem
cap .. edson sent a replacement free of charge but I have yet to install
it, not really sure how. If you're going to help get the wheel off with any
tapping or hammering, use a rubber mallet and maybe a piece of leather or
something. Don't pull on the wheel, pull on the spokes close to the centre
to minimize any bending forces.

Watch the video at the bottom of this page:
http://www.sailrite.com/Leather-Steering-Wheel-Cover-Kit#.UpX7P2RgbsE


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 8:50 AM, Tim Sippel wrote:

> I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
> bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
> sew it on ..
> An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$
>
> Tim
>  Toronto
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> j...@svpaws.net
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 8:51 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
>
> Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.
> Have bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not
> difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go
> with foam under it.  A great winter project.
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy 
> wrote:
> >
> > One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the
> wheel on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of
> the season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might
> have done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with
> boatleather.com or other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on
> the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives.
> Recommendations are welcome.
> >
> > Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know
> what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive
> mounted on the wheel.  Can someone give me the steps required there?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Jim Reinardy
> > C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
> > Milwaukee, WI
> >
> > P.S.  Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is
> still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago
> that he thought was sold but is back on the market.
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be
> subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived.
> If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review,
> dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content
> is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored
> as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect
> our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted
> any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please
> notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any
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>
> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son
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> en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous
> les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
___
T

Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Richard N. Bush]

Or you could get one of those Merriman folding wheels that come already 
covered; I bought the 40 inch model three boats ago and love it; I have kept it 
when I traded boats... the covering is first rate and has held up well. I do 
keep it covered when not using the boat and it gets stored inside the boat 
during winter;  the "other" wheel makes a nice garage decoration...


Richard
1987 33-II


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Tim Sippel 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2013 8:50 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps


I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
sew it on .. 
An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$ 

Tim 
 Toronto 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
j...@svpaws.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.
Have bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not
difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go
with foam under it.  A great winter project.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy 
wrote:
> 
> One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the
wheel on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of
the season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might
have done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with
boatleather.com or other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on
the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives.
Recommendations are welcome.
> 
> Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know
what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive
mounted on the wheel.  Can someone give me the steps required there?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Jim Reinardy
> C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
> Milwaukee, WI
> 
> P.S.  Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is
still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago
that he thought was sold but is back on the market.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to 
copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not 
the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or 
copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be 
unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and 
regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure 
and 
you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. 
If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and 
any attachments) from any computer or any storage medium without printing a 
copy.

Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut 
faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit connexe 
n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son représentant, toute 
étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en tout ou en partie, 
est 
strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les messages peuvent être 
surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et les politiques de 
protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous 
êtes 
réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de 
communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, 
veuillez nous en aviser immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que 
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com


 
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Re: Stus-List New C&c 30

[Jerome Tauber]

In my area a fixed sprit means paying for three extra feet of boat length.  
Jerry C&C 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 8:54 AM, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> Sounds like a fun boat. I would not owne one for the money.A boat like
> that is so specialized for the race, no other practible uses. Except
> taking up a birth at the dock. As far as the  advantage of a fixed
> sprit less moving parts = less breakdowns under sail.
> 
> 
>> On 11/27/13, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> ...and sail it around the Island...
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 1:48, Jim Watts  wrote:
>>> 
>>> As soon as I sell my ancient barge I'm putting a down payment on one of
>>> those.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Of course, at an asking price of only $189,900 CAD it might take a few
>>> months to move my current ride, but that's the only way I'll be able to
>>> afford one of the new barges. Dang, a self-contained head. I just have one
>>> of the standard ones on the top of my neck.
>>> 
>>> 
 On 26 November 2013 21:38, Joel Aronson  wrote:
 From sailing anarchy:
 The new C&C 30 is pure race boat, complete with a fixed composite sprit
 to accommodate an asymmetric spinnaker, carbon fiber rig, square top
 mainsail, Dyneema lifelines, fabricated steel fin keel with lead bulb,
 top of the line hardware package, and of course, water-tight hatches.
 Should the wind die down, the C&C 30 has a smooth running 2-cylinder
 inboard diesel engine to get you to and from distant race courses.  This
 one design is race ready for around the buoys, but is also equipped for
 the shorter distance offshore races with a self-contained head and two
 settee berths.  C&C Yachts will launch the 30 One Design in the Spring of
 2014.  www.c-cyachts.com.
 
 
 
 
 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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Re: Stus-List New C&c 30

[Curtis]

Sounds like a fun boat. I would not owne one for the money.A boat like
that is so specialized for the race, no other practible uses. Except
taking up a birth at the dock. As far as the  advantage of a fixed
sprit less moving parts = less breakdowns under sail.


On 11/27/13, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> ...and sail it around the Island...
>
> Rich
>
>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 1:48, Jim Watts  wrote:
>>
>> As soon as I sell my ancient barge I'm putting a down payment on one of
>> those.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Of course, at an asking price of only $189,900 CAD it might take a few
>> months to move my current ride, but that's the only way I'll be able to
>> afford one of the new barges. Dang, a self-contained head. I just have one
>> of the standard ones on the top of my neck.
>>
>>
>>> On 26 November 2013 21:38, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>> From sailing anarchy:
>>> The new C&C 30 is pure race boat, complete with a fixed composite sprit
>>> to accommodate an asymmetric spinnaker, carbon fiber rig, square top
>>> mainsail, Dyneema lifelines, fabricated steel fin keel with lead bulb,
>>> top of the line hardware package, and of course, water-tight hatches.
>>> Should the wind die down, the C&C 30 has a smooth running 2-cylinder
>>> inboard diesel engine to get you to and from distant race courses.  This
>>> one design is race ready for around the buoys, but is also equipped for
>>> the shorter distance offshore races with a self-contained head and two
>>> settee berths.  C&C Yachts will launch the 30 One Design in the Spring of
>>> 2014.  www.c-cyachts.com.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
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-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Tim Sippel]

I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
sew it on .. 
An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$ 

Tim 
 Toronto 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
j...@svpaws.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.
Have bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not
difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go
with foam under it.  A great winter project.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy 
wrote:
> 
> One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the
wheel on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of
the season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might
have done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with
boatleather.com or other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on
the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives.
Recommendations are welcome.
> 
> Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know
what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive
mounted on the wheel.  Can someone give me the steps required there?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Jim Reinardy
> C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
> Milwaukee, WI
> 
> P.S.  Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is
still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago
that he thought was sold but is back on the market.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again

[Bill Bina]

  
  
If your HIN starts with zcc it was made
  in Canada. After 1976, ccy would indicate Rhode Island, U.S.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 11/26/2013 11:35 PM, Richard N. Bush wrote:


Bill, do you know where the 37s
(1981-1985 production) were built? Thanks

Richard
1987 33-II

  Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
  502-584-7255
  
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Happy Thanksgiving

[Andrew Burton]

Hear, hear!

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:59, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

>  
> In case I don't get a chance later...Happy Thanksgiving, all!
>  
> I'm thankful for Stu, for this list, and all you guys and your advice and 
> banter!
>  
> All the best!
>  
> Danny
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Stus-List Happy Thanksgiving

[djhaug...@juno.com]

 In case I don't get a chance later...Happy Thanksgiving, all! I'm thankful for 
Stu, for this list, and all you guys and your advice and banter! All the best! 
Danny___
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