Stus-List Antifreeze

[robert via CnC-List]

Marek / Chuck:

I have never checked the actual concentration of the AF leaving the 
exhaust.been doing the same thing for 10 years nowyou are making 
me nervous!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 11:51 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

agree w Marek,
I use about 4 gallons to do the boat if I capture the exhaust.  6 if I 
don't.  Ace Hardware has the best price now less than $2.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"Marek Dziedzic" 
*Sent: *Thursday, October 22, 2015 10:48:19 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

Rob,

You may not have overly low temperatures in Halifax, but 2 gal of AF 
would not be enough here (in Ottawa). Have you ever checked the actual 
concentration of AF that is _/leaving/_ the exhaust? I use about 5 gal 
(20 l - 25 l). The extra $3.50 is a cheap insurance for not busting 
(bursting) the heat exchanger or the muffler.


Some interesting tests at Compass Marine: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/engine_freeze_protection .


Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*robert via CnC-List

*Sent:* October-22-15 21:19
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* robert
*Subject:* Stus-List Hydrolocked!

Chuck / Dave:


Chuck, I am with youI don't understand how a few cups of 
antifreeze would get to the engine this way.


Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly 
the same.  While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit 
with a fresh water garden hose keeping it filled and over flowing if 
it happensI run a hose from the bucket to the raw water pump 
(remove the raw water hose to the pump, of course)..start the 
engine to flush the salt water and warm up the engineshut the 
engine down..empty the bucket of fresh water.put a gallon of 
concentrated antifreeze plus one gallon of fresh water in the 
bucketrestart the engine until I see the antifreeze exiting the 
exhaust thruhullsystem full of antifreeze..shut down the 
engine.my Yanmar 2GMF engine and exhaust system takes about the 2 
gallons .always a little left which I put in the head.


Are you absolutely sure you have a hydrolock?   As mentioned by a 
lister, first check your impeller in the raw water pump..if it is 
fine and all intact, I don't know how you could have a hydrolock  but 
I am no marine engine mechanic.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 8:55 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Dave,

I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by
the way you describe.  The point where the raw water shoots into
the exhaust should be angled to enter the exhaust and not the
engine.  Before it backs up into the engine, your hose from
cockpit to engine, raw water strainer, the heat exchanger, exhaust
hose and muffler needs to fill first, before it can back into the
engine.  That's a lot of water to move.  Also, remember if the
engine was stopped, the exhaust valve is closed on 3 of the 4
cylinders, so the intrusion is limited.   Starting the thing might
blow it all out?

If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my
raw water pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I
start the engine turning.  I suspect your pump impeller may be
worn and need replacement?

I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other
reason probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned
off.  Did you hear the solenoid click?  Did the starter whine or
hum at all?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



*From: *"David Pulaski via CnC-List" 

*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *"David Pulaski" 

*Sent: *Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM
*Subject: *Stus-List  Hydrolocked!

Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until
Sunday when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.

So here's how I managed to do this:

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the
water.  First I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe
30-45 minutes, while I got everything ready.  After I shut it down
and closed the raw water intake seacock, here was my winterizing
plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit sole, filled with
pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running through the opening
port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment,
connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed
simple enough: I could start the 

Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

agree w Marek, 
I use about 4 gallons to do the boat if I capture the exhaust. 6 if I don't. 
Ace Hardware has the best price now less than $2. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Marek Dziedzic"  
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 10:48:19 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 



Rob, 



You may not have overly low temperatures in Halifax, but 2 gal of AF would not 
be enough here (in Ottawa). Have you ever checked the actual concentration of 
AF that is _ leaving _ the exhaust? I use about 5 gal (20 l - 25 l). The extra 
$3.50 is a cheap insurance for not busting (bursting) the heat exchanger or the 
muffler. 



Some interesting tests at Compass Marine: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/engine_freeze_protection . 



Marek 

1994 C270 “Legato” 

Ottawa, ON 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List 
Sent: October-22-15 21:19 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 




Chuck / Dave: 

Chuck, I am with youI don't understand how a few cups of antifreeze would 
get to the engine this way. 

Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly the same. 
While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with a fresh water 
garden hose keeping it filled and over flowing if it happensI run a hose 
from the bucket to the raw water pump (remove the raw water hose to the pump, 
of course)..start the engine to flush the salt water and warm up the 
engineshut the engine down..empty the bucket of fresh water.put a 
gallon of concentrated antifreeze plus one gallon of fresh water in the 
bucketrestart the engine until I see the antifreeze exiting the exhaust 
thruhullsystem full of antifreeze..shut down the engine.my Yanmar 
2GMF engine and exhaust system takes about the 2 gallons .always a little 
left which I put in the head. 

Are you absolutely sure you have a hydrolock? As mentioned by a lister, first 
check your impeller in the raw water pump..if it is fine and all intact, I 
don't know how you could have a hydrolock but I am no marine engine mechanic. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 




On 2015-10-22 8:55 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: 





Dave, 


I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by the way you 
describe. The point where the raw water shoots into the exhaust should be 
angled to enter the exhaust and not the engine. Before it backs up into the 
engine, your hose from cockpit to engine, raw water strainer, the heat 
exchanger, exhaust hose and muffler needs to fill first, before it can back 
into the engine. That's a lot of water to move. Also, remember if the engine 
was stopped, the exhaust valve is closed on 3 of the 4 cylinders, so the 
intrusion is limited. Starting the thing might blow it all out? 





If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my raw water 
pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I start the engine turning. 
I suspect your pump impeller may be worn and need replacement? 





I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other reason 
probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned off. Did you hear 
the solenoid click? Did the starter whine or hum at all? 





Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 



- Original Message -



From: "David Pulaski via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "David Pulaski"  
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 





Thanks all for the words of advice! I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday when I 
can get there to try to resolve this situation. 





So here's how I managed to do this: 





I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water. First I just 
ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got 
everything ready. After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake seacock, 
here was my winterizing plan: 5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit sole, 
filled with pink antifreeze. A length of hose running through the opening port 
in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, connected to the 
raw water side of the water strainer. Seemed simple enough: I could start the 
engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding more if necessary. 





My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze. I was just 
using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end up in the 
cockpit; no pressure. It didn't occur to me that the small height differential 
would be enough to push water past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but 
apparently it did. I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to 
start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over. At first I thought the batteries 
didn't have enough juice to 

Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Rob,

 

You may not have overly low temperatures in Halifax, but 2 gal of AF would
not be enough here (in Ottawa). Have you ever checked the actual
concentration of AF that is _leaving_ the exhaust? I use about 5 gal (20 l -
25 l). The extra $3.50 is a cheap insurance for not busting (bursting) the
heat exchanger or the muffler.

 

Some interesting tests at Compass Marine:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/engine_freeze_protection .

 

Marek

1994 C270 "Legato"

Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: October-22-15 21:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

 

Chuck / Dave:

Chuck, I am with youI don't understand how a few cups of antifreeze
would get to the engine this way.

Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly the
same.  While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with a
fresh water garden hose keeping it filled and over flowing if it
happensI run a hose from the bucket to the raw water pump (remove the
raw water hose to the pump, of course)..start the engine to flush the
salt water and warm up the engineshut the engine down..empty the
bucket of fresh water.put a gallon of concentrated antifreeze plus one
gallon of fresh water in the bucketrestart the engine until I see the
antifreeze exiting the exhaust thruhullsystem full of
antifreeze..shut down the engine.my Yanmar 2GMF engine and exhaust
system takes about the 2 gallons .always a little left which I put in
the head.

Are you absolutely sure you have a hydrolock?   As mentioned by a lister,
first check your impeller in the raw water pump..if it is fine and all
intact, I don't know how you could have a hydrolock  but I am no marine
engine mechanic.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 8:55 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Dave,

I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by the way
you describe.  The point where the raw water shoots into the exhaust should
be angled to enter the exhaust and not the engine.  Before it backs up into
the engine, your hose from cockpit to engine, raw water strainer, the heat
exchanger, exhaust hose and muffler needs to fill first, before it can back
into the engine.  That's a lot of water to move.  Also, remember if the
engine was stopped, the exhaust valve is closed on 3 of the 4 cylinders, so
the intrusion is limited.   Starting the thing might blow it all out?

 

If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my raw water
pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I start the engine
turning.  I suspect your pump impeller may be worn and need replacement?

 

I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other reason
probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned off.  Did you
hear the solenoid click?  Did the starter whine or hum at all?

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "David Pulaski via CnC-List"  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "David Pulaski"  

Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM
Subject: Stus-List  Hydrolocked!

 

Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday
when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.

 

So here's how I managed to do this:

 

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  First I
just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got
everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake
seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the
cockpit sole, filled with pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running through
the opening port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine
compartment, connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed
simple enough: I could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket,
adding more if necessary.

 

My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I was just
using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end up in
the cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me that the small height
differential would be enough to push water past the raw water pump into the
cylinders, but apparently it did.  I didn't realize what had happened until
I attempted to start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over.  At first I
thought the batteries didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold
startup a few moments earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of times, and
then it dawned on me.

 

I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold
riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm having a stupid moment
but I'm really still scratching my head over this.  I really didn't pour
much down the hose, just a couple of cups.   But I'm actually somewhat
hopeful that the c

Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Wow, 3 years for bottom paint is pretty darn good! Are you in really cold or 
brackish environment?
I have a neighbor in my marina that is going to be in the Smithsonian if he can 
keep the garden growing under his vintage Columbia sloop!  He did get a nice 25 
hp Merc installed on the back since I saw it last. He somehow turned it around 
in the slip! I thought it was attached to the bottom!
Rick
Paige's 37+

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for
> bottom paint.
> 
> Tip for you paint job in the spring: As a first coat paint the forward third
> of the hull, the forward half of the keel, and the forward half of the
> rudder with a contrasting color of paint. I use blue as a first coat under
> my red bottom paint. The contrasting paint is your "signal coat". Then paint
> the other costs with your preferred color. When the paint is sluffed off to
> the point that the signal coat is visible, it is time to repaint the bottom.
> 
> I'm surprised that the base of the barnacles didn't get removed by pressure
> washing. But then you paint had exceeded its life and the copper was
> probably completely leached out of the paint.
> 
> Try taking a 1 1/2 or 2' wide wood chisel to the base disc of the barnacles.
> Lay the edge of the chisel along the edge of the disc with the chisel almost
> flush with the paint surface, and give the chisel a thump with your hand.
> The disc should just pop off. That's has worked for me since I was shown the
> trick by a yard mechanic several years ago.
> 
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert 
> Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
> 
> For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
> seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
> slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.
> 
> This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot a
> few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, which
> removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but there are
> still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
> completely or simply paint over them next Spring.
> 
> Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?
> 
> On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a fellow
> sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops and
> pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon of a
> brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He 
> chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was 
> doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
> weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 ft,
> home made in his back yard, race machine.
> 
> Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
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> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Bimini Question

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Congrats on the 24! 
Mainsheet arrangements can be changed. Priorities. Suggest you check the other 
boats in you marina and copy the one you like best. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Alex Wolfe via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Alex Wolfe"  
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 11:01:28 AM 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 Bimini Question 

Hi Friends, 

I just joined the esteemed C&C family by purchasing a 1977 C&C 24. I wonder 
whether anyone has any design ideas for a bimini that could cover the full 
cockpit while under sail. The issue is that the mainsheet lands on a shackle in 
the middle of the cockpit. A helmsman's bimini is possible but this is not 
enough for the boss. We are thinking about a slot, double zippers or low slung 
straps so that the sheet and boom can pass across the cockpit. A 
California-tyle dodger and bimini combination would turn into a sweat lodge 
here in Florida. I have started searching the archives but have not found 
anything yet. Does anyone recall discussion of this in previous emails or have 
some experience with the dilemma? It would be great to connect with other C&C 
24 owners. Thanks. 

Alex Wolfe 
(917) 863-9918 
Miami, FL 


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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I bought the decals on Belle at an Atlantic City Boat Show (back when they 
still had them) from a company that specialized in  lettering for boats. Not 
Boat/US. That was back in about 95 or 96 and the letting is still in great 
shape with no noticeable fading.

 

Had to replace one set of decals on Imzadi when I had some paint touch up done 
in 2009. Used a national quickie sign folks. There are already parts of the 
decal sluffing off and brittle from the UV. There must be a difference in the 
materials used.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 12:24 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

 

Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and 
service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.  

The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I removed it 
to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several iterations of the Touche' 
logo on the side windows of my SUV's.  

The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This company does 
the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I had made at one of the 
nationwide quickie sign companies.

IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer. 

I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for the 
next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats so I 
can deal with most suppliers.

Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Agree w Rick, 
I find the scale left behind by a barnacle easily peels away from the paint 
using a sharp (new) wood chisel and a gentle touch. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Brass"  
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 10:17:03 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint 

Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for 
bottom paint. 

Tip for you paint job in the spring: As a first coat paint the forward third 
of the hull, the forward half of the keel, and the forward half of the 
rudder with a contrasting color of paint. I use blue as a first coat under 
my red bottom paint. The contrasting paint is your "signal coat". Then paint 
the other costs with your preferred color. When the paint is sluffed off to 
the point that the signal coat is visible, it is time to repaint the bottom. 

I'm surprised that the base of the barnacles didn't get removed by pressure 
washing. But then you paint had exceeded its life and the copper was 
probably completely leached out of the paint. 

Try taking a 1 1/2 or 2' wide wood chisel to the base disc of the barnacles. 
Lay the edge of the chisel along the edge of the disc with the chisel almost 
flush with the paint surface, and give the chisel a thump with your hand. 
The disc should just pop off. That's has worked for me since I was shown the 
trick by a yard mechanic several years ago. 

Rick Brass 
Washington, NC 

-Original Message- 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:11 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint 

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash. 

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot a 
few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, which 
removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but there are 
still traces of the 'little critters'. Not sure if I will sand them out 
completely or simply paint over them next Spring. 

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it? 

On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a fellow 
sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops and 
pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon of a 
brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc. He 
chooses a gallon. Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was 
doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon 
weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 ft, 
home made in his back yard, race machine. 

Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint! 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 


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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A spray bottle of muriatic acid does the same thing. Use a cheap spray bottle 
because you will only get to use it one time.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

 

Robert,

 

The barnacle remains are called basal plates. If you are concerned about 
over sanding

than take a look at Barnacle Buster.  You spray it on, let it devolve the basal 
plates, and wash it off.

This stuff is great, but you need to keep it wet.

 

Here are two links providing info.   The first one is a write up in Practical 
Sailor on using Barnacle Buster in a "Barnacle Remover Test “.  The second info 
link, is a brochure. 

 

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_5/chandlery/5439-1.html

 

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Trac_Ecological/TDS_Barnacle_Buster_2011.pdf
 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 

On Oct 22, 2015, at 6:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

 


Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:11:01 -0300
From: robert <  robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
Message-ID: <  
562934c5.7040...@eastlink.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot 
a few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
which removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
there are still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will 
sand them out completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

 

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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for
bottom paint.

Tip for you paint job in the spring: As a first coat paint the forward third
of the hull, the forward half of the keel, and the forward half of the
rudder with a contrasting color of paint. I use blue as a first coat under
my red bottom paint. The contrasting paint is your "signal coat". Then paint
the other costs with your preferred color. When the paint is sluffed off to
the point that the signal coat is visible, it is time to repaint the bottom.

I'm surprised that the base of the barnacles didn't get removed by pressure
washing. But then you paint had exceeded its life and the copper was
probably completely leached out of the paint.

Try taking a 1 1/2 or 2' wide wood chisel to the base disc of the barnacles.
Lay the edge of the chisel along the edge of the disc with the chisel almost
flush with the paint surface, and give the chisel a thump with your hand.
The disc should just pop off. That's has worked for me since I was shown the
trick by a yard mechanic several years ago.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot a
few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, which
removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but there are
still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a fellow
sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops and
pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon of a
brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He 
chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was 
doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 ft,
home made in his back yard, race machine.

Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

No.  It's me. I hired a voodoo priestess from the French Quarter in New Orleans 
to send you Cakun barnacles. They have a chip on their shoulders from having 
been kicked out of Acadiana years ago. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 2:53 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rick:
> 
> I bought 3 gallons of Micron 66 4 years agoshould be the same 
> formula.each Spring, I put a light coat of the 66 paint on the 
> bottomthe 3 gallons has now been consumed.  And there is Micron CSC under 
> the 66.   I saw a boat hauled yesterday with CSC paint that lies about 200 
> feet from my boat in the mooring field and not one barnacle that I could see 
> on the bottom..a few on prop and shaft but not many.
> 
> Next Spring will see a 'fresh coat'..just not sure what paint it will be.
> 
> I think Rich Knowles, out of Nanimo, B.C. , is still having 'prayer meetings' 
> directing the marine growth to my boat and not all the others.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
>> On 2015-10-22 4:40 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List wrote:
>> Rob,
>> 
>> It isn't really clear, did you put a fresh coat on each spring or is this
>> four years use on the same application?
>> If it's the former, they may have changed the formula.  If it's the latter
>> you probably just used up all the copper in the paint and it's time for a
>> fresh coat.
>> 
>> 
>> Rick Taillieu
>> Nemesis
>> '75 C&C 25  #371
>> Shearwater Yacht Club
>> Halifax, NS.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: October-22-15 16:11
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: robert
>> Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
>> 
>> For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
>> seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
>> slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.
>> 
>> This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot a
>> few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, which
>> removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but there are
>> still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
>> completely or simply paint over them next Spring.
>> 
>> Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?
>> 
>> On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a fellow
>> sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops and
>> pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon of a
>> brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He
>> chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was
>> doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
>> weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 ft,
>> home made in his back yard, race machine.
>> 
>> Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
>> of page at:
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>> 
>> -
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4450/10870 - Release Date: 10/22/15
>> 
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Brightside is good paint. Used it on my boot stripe and cover it with PoliGlow. 
Shines great, but maybe PoliGlow makes that happen. 
Vinyl decals are the way to go for boat names and such. Just PoliGlow afterward 
and the shine will be amazing. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jake Brodersen"  
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 8:20:04 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull 



Edd, 



I find that Brightside doesn’t seem to keep its gloss that long. I use it on 
the cove stripes and end up reapplying it every couple years. Interlux might 
have a better choice. 



Jake 



Jake Brodersen 

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress” 

Hampton VA 







On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 


Listers, 





After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear 
down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was thinking of 
peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What type of paint do 
you suggest I use? Brightside? 



All the best, 





Edd 








Edd M. Schillay 


Starship Enterprise 


C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 


City Island, NY 


Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




























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Re: Stus-List boom

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Our gooseneck assembly was a little worn down where the boom fitting rode
on the mast base, I put 3 nylon washers in between the boom and the mast
fittings and that shut that noise down. I'm still tracking the squeak off
the mainsheet and the weird noise the topping lift makes. McLube helps
everywhere.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 October 2015 at 18:26, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Harald
> Mine did that when we bought the boat, ours was noisy when the main was up
> though.  The issue we had was that the horizontal pin in the gooseneck had
> worn the holes oblong, so they were not a nice fit on the pin any more.  I
> bought a couple of brass bushings, drilled out the hole oversized, and
> pressed them in with a c-clamp.  This has been quiet for a number of years
> now (I think 3, maybe 4, not sure).
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>
> On 2015-10-22 12:24 PM, Harald Braun via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful
>> squecking, grinding noise, once the main was down. I lubed it and still no
>> luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
>>
>> Harald
>> Kitchener, On
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Where's butyl?
(There's a roll in my refrigerator.)
I guess butyl's more of a sealant than an adhesive.
Not sure about that terminology, though.

--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 4:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I did a bit of quick research on adhesives.  My quick look and the
> terminology may lead to inaccuracies.  I am not a materials engineer.  For
> instance, shear strength numbers were either listed as shear strength or
> lap shear strength, then there is dynamic vs static whatever.  Please take
> the info with a LARGE grain of salt.
>
> I listed the references so you can look them up yourself.
>
> This may interest some.
>
> Material
>
> Static or Lap Shear strength, psi
>
> Tensile strength, psi
>
> Reference
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Plexus MA530
>
> 1600-2200
>
> 3000-3500
>
>
> http://www.rshughes.com/p/Plexus-MA530-Black-Methacrylate-Adhesive-50-Gal-Drum-Shear-Strength-1600-To-2200-Psi-Tensile-Strength-3000-To-3500-Psi/plexus_it206/
>
> Sika
>
> n/a
>
> 160
>
> https://www.google.com/search?q=sika+295uv+shear+strength&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
>
> 3M 5200
>
> 360 (fiberglass)
>
> 630-705
>
>
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/158782O/adhesive-sealant-5200-tech-data.pdf
>
> 3M 4200
>
> 20-165
>
> 180
>
>
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/891179O/3m-marine-fast-cure-general-purpose-adhesive-sealant-4200fc.pdf
>
> LifeSeal
>
> 240
>
> 290
>
>
> http://www.boatlife.com/content/NEED%20LifeSealR%20POLYURETHANE-SILICONE%20SEALANT.pdf
>
> 3M VHB tape 59XX
>
> 1000
>
> 90-100
>
> https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf
>
> Dennis C.
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

We all are still praying, Mike and I hold regular meetings.  Amen 
brother, amen!


Hey, saw Mike's new boat last weekend, it is a sweet ride!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-22 4:53 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Rick:

I bought 3 gallons of Micron 66 4 years agoshould be the same 
formula.each Spring, I put a light coat of the 66 paint on the 
bottomthe 3 gallons has now been consumed.  And there is Micron 
CSC under the 66.   I saw a boat hauled yesterday with CSC paint that 
lies about 200 feet from my boat in the mooring field and not one 
barnacle that I could see on the bottom..a few on prop and shaft 
but not many.


Next Spring will see a 'fresh coat'..just not sure what paint it 
will be.


I think Rich Knowles, out of Nanimo, B.C. , is still having 'prayer 
meetings' directing the marine growth to my boat and not all the others.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 4:40 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,

It isn't really clear, did you put a fresh coat on each spring or is 
this

four years use on the same application?
If it's the former, they may have changed the formula.  If it's the 
latter
you probably just used up all the copper in the paint and it's time 
for a

fresh coat.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
robert

via CnC-List
Sent: October-22-15 16:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with 
barnaclesnot a
few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
which
removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
there are

still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a 
fellow
sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops 
and
pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon 
of a

brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He
chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was
doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 
40 ft,

home made in his back yard, race machine.

Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4450/10870 - Release Date: 
10/22/15



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Re: Stus-List boom

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hello Harald
Mine did that when we bought the boat, ours was noisy when the main was 
up though.  The issue we had was that the horizontal pin in the 
gooseneck had worn the holes oblong, so they were not a nice fit on the 
pin any more.  I bought a couple of brass bushings, drilled out the hole 
oversized, and pressed them in with a c-clamp.  This has been quiet for 
a number of years now (I think 3, maybe 4, not sure).


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-22 12:24 PM, Harald Braun via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful 
squecking, grinding noise, once the main was down. I lubed it and 
still no luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any 
suggestions?


Harald
Kitchener, On

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Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[robert via CnC-List]

Chuck / Dave:

Chuck, I am with youI don't understand how a few cups of antifreeze 
would get to the engine this way.


Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly the 
same.  While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with a 
fresh water garden hose keeping it filled and over flowing if it 
happensI run a hose from the bucket to the raw water pump (remove 
the raw water hose to the pump, of course)..start the engine to 
flush the salt water and warm up the engineshut the engine 
down..empty the bucket of fresh water.put a gallon of 
concentrated antifreeze plus one gallon of fresh water in the 
bucketrestart the engine until I see the antifreeze exiting the 
exhaust thruhullsystem full of antifreeze..shut down the 
engine.my Yanmar 2GMF engine and exhaust system takes about the 2 
gallons .always a little left which I put in the head.


Are you absolutely sure you have a hydrolock?   As mentioned by a 
lister, first check your impeller in the raw water pump..if it is 
fine and all intact, I don't know how you could have a hydrolock but I 
am no marine engine mechanic.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 8:55 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Dave,
I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by the 
way you describe.  The point where the raw water shoots into the 
exhaust should be angled to enter the exhaust and not the engine.  
Before it backs up into the engine, your hose from cockpit to engine, 
raw water strainer, the heat exchanger, exhaust hose and muffler needs 
to fill first, before it can back into the engine.  That's a lot of 
water to move.  Also, remember if the engine was stopped, the exhaust 
valve is closed on 3 of the 4 cylinders, so the intrusion is 
limited.   Starting the thing might blow it all out?


If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my raw 
water pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I start the 
engine turning.  I suspect your pump impeller may be worn and need 
replacement?


I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other 
reason probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned 
off.  Did you hear the solenoid click?  Did the starter whine or hum 
at all?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"David Pulaski via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"David Pulaski" 
*Sent: *Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM
*Subject: *Stus-List  Hydrolocked!

Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until 
Sunday when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.


So here's how I managed to do this:

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  
First I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, 
while I got everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw 
water intake seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket 
sitting on the cockpit sole, filled with pink antifreeze.  A length of 
hose running through the opening port in the aft cabin from the 
cockpit to the engine compartment, connected to the raw water side of 
the water strainer.  Seemed simple enough: I could start the engine 
and watch the level in the bucket, adding more if necessary.


My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I 
was just using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from 
the end up in the cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me that 
the small height differential would be enough to push water past the 
raw water pump into the cylinders, but apparently it did.  I didn't 
realize what had happened until I attempted to start the engine, and 
it wouldn't turn over.  At first I thought the batteries didn't have 
enough juice to restart after my cold startup a few moments earlier.  
I stabbed the button a couple of times, and then it dawned on me.


I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the 
manifold riser, and sure enough, pink poured out. Perhaps I'm having a 
stupid moment but I'm really still scratching my head over this.  I 
really didn't pour much down the hose, just a couple of cups.   But 
I'm actually somewhat hopeful that the contents of the cylinders is 
mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion protection I'm hoping.


Until sunday...

-Dave


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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

A well regarded sign paint is called One Shot.
http://www.1shot.com/One-Shot/index.aspx

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


  At 07:52 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:

Listers,

After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting 
to wear down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, 
I was thinking of peeling the stuff off and painting the 
name/graphics on. What type of paint do you suggest I use? Brightside?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log














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Re: Stus-List boom

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Harald,

Mine will do that too if I allow. Normal practice on Sweet (with 
rigid vang) is to set main halyard to boom end and adjust for desired 
height, tension a utility line from boom end to a side fitting (toe 
rail, footblock, etc.) and tension the mainsheet with traveller drawn 
to opposite side.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:24 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:
Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful 
squecking, grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and 
still no luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?


Harald
Kitchener, On

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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I find that Brightside doesn’t seem to keep its gloss that long.  I use it on 
the cove stripes and end up reapplying it every couple years.  Interlux might 
have a better choice.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers,

 

After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear 
down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was thinking of 
peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What type of paint do 
you suggest I use? Brightside? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 










 





 


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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Dave, 
I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by the way you 
describe. The point where the raw water shoots into the exhaust should be 
angled to enter the exhaust and not the engine. Before it backs up into the 
engine, your hose from cockpit to engine, raw water strainer, the heat 
exchanger, exhaust hose and muffler needs to fill first, before it can back 
into the engine. That's a lot of water to move. Also, remember if the engine 
was stopped, the exhaust valve is closed on 3 of the 4 cylinders, so the 
intrusion is limited. Starting the thing might blow it all out? 

If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my raw water 
pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I start the engine turning. 
I suspect your pump impeller may be worn and need replacement? 

I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other reason 
probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned off. Did you hear 
the solenoid click? Did the starter whine or hum at all? 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "David Pulaski via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "David Pulaski"  
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 

Thanks all for the words of advice! I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday when I 
can get there to try to resolve this situation. 

So here's how I managed to do this: 

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water. First I just 
ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got 
everything ready. After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake seacock, 
here was my winterizing plan: 5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit sole, 
filled with pink antifreeze. A length of hose running through the opening port 
in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, connected to the 
raw water side of the water strainer. Seemed simple enough: I could start the 
engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding more if necessary. 

My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze. I was just 
using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end up in the 
cockpit; no pressure. It didn't occur to me that the small height differential 
would be enough to push water past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but 
apparently it did. I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to 
start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over. At first I thought the batteries 
didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold startup a few moments 
earlier. I stabbed the button a couple of times, and then it dawned on me. 

I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold 
riser, and sure enough, pink poured out. Perhaps I'm having a stupid moment but 
I'm really still scratching my head over this. I really didn't pour much down 
the hose, just a couple of cups. But I'm actually somewhat hopeful that the 
contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion 
protection I'm hoping. 

Until sunday... 

-Dave 


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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Robert,

The barnacle remains are called basal plates. If you are concerned about 
over sanding
than take a look at Barnacle Buster.  You spray it on, let it devolve the basal 
plates, and wash it off.
This stuff is great, but you need to keep it wet.

Here are two links providing info.   The first one is a write up in Practical 
Sailor on using Barnacle Buster in a "Barnacle Remover Test “.  The second info 
link, is a brochure. 

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_5/chandlery/5439-1.html

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Trac_Ecological/TDS_Barnacle_Buster_2011.pdf
 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 6:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:11:01 -0300
> From: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
> Message-ID: <562934c5.7040...@eastlink.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
> 
> For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
> seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
> slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.
> 
> This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot 
> a few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
> which removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
> there are still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will 
> sand them out completely or simply paint over them next Spring.
> 
> Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Rob, 
Please copy me your method off list? 

cscheaf...@comcast.net 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "robert via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "robert"  
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 9:51:01 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows 

Gary: 

I sent you the process I used 'off list'. 

The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure how much 
but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take the old 
windows out and lay them on a flat surface. I used Sika 295 UV with the Sika 
primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the curved window(s) in 
place. It's been 6 seasons and no problems. 

Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace them' 
while the Sika cured. I explained all of that in my 'off list' email to you. 
Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 



On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: 



Fred, 
The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to look like and 
attractive method. I am replacing the windows over the winter, also. We should 
keep in touch. Do I assume you would use the gray VHB tape with the gray 
silicone sealant? I am wondering if the VHB tape will be a problem with peel. 
My cabin sides are curved, so the windows will have to be bent slightly to 
conform to the side of the cabin. I wonder if that will be a problem with the 
3/8" thick acrylic trying to return to a flat shape? 

Gary 

~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the winter. 
I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time, I’m going to 
try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on Johanna Rose: 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts . 

I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge. 

— Fred 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( 




On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 

Hi Paul, 
I agree that 1/4" is too thin. The other 37+ at my club has 5/16" It amazes me 
that people with no marine design experience would change the design. I plan to 
go with 3/8" acrylic. But then again... 

The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is less scratch 
resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic). You are probably trading one problem for 
another. 

As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn. The write-up in the Photo Album 
suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the bond thickness is 
large enough. To that end he added glass beads to the adhesive to make sure the 
bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030". 

Thoughts, anyone? 

Gary 
S/V High Maintenance 
'90 C&C 37 Plus 
East Greenwich, RI, USA 





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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Vinyl letters. websearch a provider. 10 reasons better than paint. 


- Original Message -

From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Edd Schillay"  
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 10:52:36 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull 

Listers, 

After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear 
down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was thinking of 
peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What type of paint do 
you suggest I use? Brightside? 

All the best, 

Edd 


Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 












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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Rob,

I've used CSC since I moved out here from Ontario nine years ago,(wow, has
it been that long already) and I'm totally satisfied with the results.
I get some slime the last half of the season but it cleans off very easily
with a pressure washer.
I've put a full coat on every two years and do 6" down from the waterline,
the leading edge of the keel and the entire rudder every year.
I probably could have went three years between full coats but I wouldn't
push it for four.
My boat sat most of the year and besides the usual slime the bottom was
clean.
Some other boats that also sat  but had cheaper bottom paint were full of
sea squirts, barnacles, mussels and grass, you definitely get what you pay
for with antifouling.
In your case I think it was definitely Rich's voodoo curse.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: October-22-15 16:53
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

Rick:

I bought 3 gallons of Micron 66 4 years agoshould be the same
formula.each Spring, I put a light coat of the 66 paint on the
bottomthe 3 gallons has now been consumed.  And there is Micron CSC 
under the 66.   I saw a boat hauled yesterday with CSC paint that lies 
about 200 feet from my boat in the mooring field and not one barnacle that I
could see on the bottom..a few on prop and shaft but not many.

Next Spring will see a 'fresh coat'..just not sure what paint it will
be.

I think Rich Knowles, out of Nanimo, B.C. , is still having 'prayer
meetings' directing the marine growth to my boat and not all the others.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 86

[Harald Braun via CnC-List]

Thanks I will.

Harald

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.
  Original Message
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 2:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 86


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  bottom paint stripping (Fred Hazzard)
   2. Re:  Vinyl letters - experiences? (Stu)
   3. Re:  CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 85 (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
   4.  Boom (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
   5. Re:  Painting Boat Name on Hull (Kevin Driscoll)
   6. Re:  boom (McNamee, Michael)
   7.  Dry Ice Blasting (robert)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:37:50 -0700
From: Fred Hazzard 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Bob,  how much was the cost for the dry ice blasting?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or
On Oct 22, 2015 8:18 AM, "robert via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I had the bottom dry ice blasted.took about 5 hours.great job,
> little to know mess.shop vaced the old paint from the ground in 20
> minutes.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi David,
>
> I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be
> good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. The
> guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're doing to
> avoid digging into the gelcoat)
>
> As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed to trap
> moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local knowledge /
> recommendations as different waters / climates dictate different
> approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse for osmosis.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
> > I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint
> > in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
> >
> > 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> > uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat
> and
> > little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> > experience with the two technologies?
> >
> > 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> > the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era
> C&C,
> > it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> > amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on multiple barrier
> > coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few
> coats?
> > Thanks- Dave
> >
> > Aries
> > 1990 C&C 34+
> > New London, CT
> Regards
> --
>
> *Fran?ois Rivard*  4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
> Big Data Black Belt  Atlanta, 30327-3015 IBM Sales & Distribution,
> Software Sales  Usa Mobile: 770-639-0429
> e-mail: jfriv...@us.ibm.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 13:45:27 -0400

Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[robert via CnC-List]

Rick:

I bought 3 gallons of Micron 66 4 years agoshould be the same 
formula.each Spring, I put a light coat of the 66 paint on the 
bottomthe 3 gallons has now been consumed.  And there is Micron CSC 
under the 66.   I saw a boat hauled yesterday with CSC paint that lies 
about 200 feet from my boat in the mooring field and not one barnacle 
that I could see on the bottom..a few on prop and shaft but not many.


Next Spring will see a 'fresh coat'..just not sure what paint it 
will be.


I think Rich Knowles, out of Nanimo, B.C. , is still having 'prayer 
meetings' directing the marine growth to my boat and not all the others.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 4:40 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,

It isn't really clear, did you put a fresh coat on each spring or is this
four years use on the same application?
If it's the former, they may have changed the formula.  If it's the latter
you probably just used up all the copper in the paint and it's time for a
fresh coat.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: October-22-15 16:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot a
few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, which
removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but there are
still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a fellow
sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops and
pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon of a
brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He
chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was
doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 ft,
home made in his back yard, race machine.

Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Rob,

It isn't really clear, did you put a fresh coat on each spring or is this
four years use on the same application?
If it's the former, they may have changed the formula.  If it's the latter
you probably just used up all the copper in the paint and it's time for a
fresh coat.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: October-22-15 16:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot a
few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, which
removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but there are
still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a fellow
sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops and
pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon of a
brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He 
chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was 
doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 ft,
home made in his back yard, race machine.

Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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No virus found in this message.
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Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4450/10870 - Release Date: 10/22/15


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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Also used BoatUS.  Did the website.

Basic black has held up well for 3+ years.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> Did you send them a digital file or design it on their site?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 1:21 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I used BoatUS, this year, and I am pleased with the results.  It was easy
>> working with them to get what I wanted.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Alan,

Did you send them a digital file or design it on their site?

Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 1:21 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I used BoatUS, this year, and I am pleased with the results.  It was easy
> working with them to get what I wanted.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[robert via CnC-List]

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.


This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot 
a few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
which removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
there are still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will 
sand them out completely or simply paint over them next Spring.


Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a 
fellow sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe 
stops and pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a 
gallon of a brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He 
chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was 
doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon 
weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 
ft, home made in his back yard, race machine.


Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Remove the old vinyl with a 3M stripe off wheel.  Don't use a blade.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear
> down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was thinking
> of peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What type of
> paint do you suggest I use? Brightside?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You can warm it up on the hard. I do it regularly before putting antifreeze 
in. There are a few ways; I find this one the best: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKky09u1fGU


Of course, you need access to ample amount of fresh water (and a bucket).

Russ, I know the place. Been there a few times.

Marek

-Original Message- 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 9:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!


Hi David,

Well, I guess you can forget about warming up under load when you get
'er running. I didn't think about that weird ritual, hauling boats
from the water, that you guys, who are beyond Hope, do each year.

For me, anything an hour & a half east of Vancouver is beyond Hope :)
https://www.google.ca/maps/@49.3891711,-121.5364525,12z

cheers, Russ

At 12:47 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:
Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday 
when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.


So here's how I managed to do this:

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  First I 
just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got 
everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake 
seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the 
cockpit sole, filled with pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running 
through the opening port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine 
compartment, connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed 
simple enough: I could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket, 
adding more if necessary.


My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I was 
just using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end 
up in the cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me that the small 
height differential would be enough to push water past the raw water pump 
into the cylinders, but apparently it did.  I didn't realize what had 
happened until I attempted to start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over. 
At first I thought the batteries didn't have enough juice to restart after 
my cold startup a few moments earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of 
times, and then it dawned on me.


I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold 
riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm having a stupid 
moment but I'm really still scratching my head over this.  I really didn't 
pour much down the hose, just a couple of cups.   But I'm actually somewhat 
hopeful that the contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should 
give some corrosion protection I'm hoping.


Until sunday...

-Dave




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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

I used BoatUS, this year, and I am pleased with the results. It was easy 
working with them to get what I wanted. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and 
service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers. 

The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years. I removed it 
to repaint the topsides. I have also had several iterations of the Touche' logo 
on the side windows of my SUV's. 

The first set of decals was made by a local sign company. This company does the 
local police and sheriff's vehicles. The last few I had made at one of the 
nationwide quickie sign companies. 

IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer. 

I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for the 
next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats so I 
can deal with most suppliers. 

Anybody got any light to shed on this subject? 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 
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Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives mostly concerning portlights/windows

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Nice job, Derek.

Let me add to your post.

When I installed new ports in a 26 footer  (non C&C) couple weeks ago I had
similar thoughts and concerns.

I dry fiitted ports in place and held them with tape.  I then traced the
outline of the inside of ports on the protective film and removed film from
adhering surfaces.  Then took them to local glass shop where they applied a
special black paint on the adhering surfaces.  Don't know any details on
the paint but they said it actually improved adhesion.  It was matte and
slightly rough.  With the paint, I didn't have to worry about bubbles or
gaps in the sealant showing through.

After taping the outside of the port landings and the inside of the ports,
I applied a generous bead of black LifeSeal and installed the ports flush
wiith the cabin sides.  I had several pieces of wood furring or filler
strips precut.  I placed the strips against the ports and clamped them to
the lifelines with clamps to hold pressure on the ports.

Note:  the key here is to apply one large bead of sealant.  If you apply
two adjacent beads, you may trap air between the beads which will show if
you don't do the paint.

While the sealant was still fresh, I ran the backside of a plastic spoon
around the gap between the port lens and cabin side to create a nice
concave look.  Note: run the spoon in ONE direction only.

I didn't use any spacers.  Just made sure the lens was uniformly flush with
the cabin side and that I got lots of "squeeze out" around the gap.

Next day I removed strips and tape.  Any stray sealant was removed with a
pencil eraser.  Didn't want to use an adhesive remover for fear of damaging
the concave seal.

Done.  Nice job.  Pat on back.

Furring or filler strips are about 1.5 inches wide x 1/4 inch thick and can
be bought in 8 foot lengths at a big box store for about $1 each.  The
clamps were the 4 inch pony spring clamps that are about $4.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Dry Ice Blasting

[robert via CnC-List]

Fred:

The contractor's normal price was $40 per foot of boat length.he 
gave me a deal $20 per ft because he wanted to use me/my boat for 
promotional purposes.   Now that was the Spring of 2006


Unfortunately for him, it didn't work very well..I think he got two 
power boat owners at the club who witnessed the job on my boat.   I 
still don't understand why this process isn't used more.


My boat was a real challenge.it had 21 years of vinlylux and VC 
17.he said if he were doing a bottom with an ablative paint, it 
would have taken half the time.maybe why he gave me the half price 
deal.he didn't see the boat before he showed up to clean it.we 
normally don't use VC 17 here.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 2:37 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:


Bob,  how much was the cost for the dry ice blasting?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or

On Oct 22, 2015 8:18 AM, "robert via CnC-List" > wrote:


I had the bottom dry ice blasted.took about 5 hours.great
job, little to know mess.shop vaced the old paint from the
ground in 20 minutes.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:

Hi David,

I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed
to be good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an
abrasive wheel. The guy did a remarkable job, but you really have
to know what you're doing to avoid digging into the gelcoat)

As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed
to trap moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local
knowledge / recommendations as different waters / climates
dictate different approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse
for osmosis.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA





> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall
and repaint
> in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
>
> 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and
the lower
> uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the
gelcoat and
> little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any
comments or
> experience with the two technologies?
>
> 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom
painting, but
> the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a
1990 era C&C,
> it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically
reduce the
> amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on
multiple barrier
> coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a
few coats?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
Regards


*François Rivard*4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
Big Data Black Belt  Atlanta, 30327-3015
IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales Usa
Mobile: 770-639-0429
e-mail: jfriv...@us.ibm.com   





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Re: Stus-List boom

[McNamee, Michael via CnC-List]

I’ve had the same problem, which prevented sleep in a rolly anchorage.   A 
simple solution was to sheet the boom fairly tight, then use a short length of 
3/8 inch line to pull the end of the boom over toward one side, in my case, to 
a jam cleat near the main jib sheet winch.  This is part of my normal procedure 
before turning in for the night.

Mike
C&C 30-2 “Limerick”
Anacortes

From: Dennis C. [mailto:capt...@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 9:02 AM
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boom

Check the fasteners on the gooseneck/boom joint.
Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:24 AM, Harald Braun via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking, 
grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck. Really 
annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?

Harald
Kitchener, On



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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[robert via CnC-List]

I had the bottom dry ice blasted.took about 5 hours.great job, 
little to know mess.shop vaced the old paint from the ground in 20 
minutes.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:

Hi David,

I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be 
good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. 
The guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're 
doing to avoid digging into the gelcoat)


As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed to 
trap moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local 
knowledge / recommendations as different waters / climates dictate 
different approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse for osmosis.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA





> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and 
repaint

> in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
>
> 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the 
gelcoat and

> little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> experience with the two technologies?
>
> 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 
era C&C,

> it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on multiple 
barrier
> coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few 
coats?

> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
Regards


*François Rivard*4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
Big Data Black Belt  Atlanta, 30327-3015
IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales Usa
Mobile: 770-639-0429
e-mail: jfriv...@us.ibm.com 





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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

A local sign maker made our lettering for ~$20. Looks great after many
seasons. Try someone outside of marine industry.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:33 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd,
>
> You'll probably find that the vinyl will last longer than paint and be
> easier to remove/replace.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 22, 2015 10:53 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to
>> wear down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was
>> thinking of peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What
>> type of paint do you suggest I use? Brightside?
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Stus-List Boom

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Harald, 

You should check the gooseneck swivel in detail, particularly the 3 
vertical holes. 

Mine was shot and the vertical holes looked like bathtubs instead of round 
holes..  it's 45 bucks well spent.. 


http://www.offshorespars.com/store/spar-parts/swivels/12-boom-swivel/


-Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 



> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful 
squecking,
> grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck.
> Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
>
> Harald
> Kitchener, 


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 85

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Harald, 

You should check the gooseneck swivel in detail, particularly the 3 
vertical holes. 

Mine was shot and the vertical holes looked like bathtubs instead of round 
holes..  it's 45 bucks well spent.. 


http://www.offshorespars.com/store/spar-parts/swivels/12-boom-swivel/


-Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 



> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful 
squecking,
> grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck.
> Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
>
> Harald
> Kitchener, On


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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Stu via CnC-List]

I have been cutting vinyl decals for over 10 years and have a few suggestions:

a- there are various thicknesses of vinyl from 2 to 4 mm (maybe thicker)
b- quality vinyl will stick for years – others will start to peel in a year
c- check the guarantee of color – some companies will guarantee no fading for 
10 years
d- make sure you specify outdoor or marine vinyl – indoor quality is crap
e- proper installation is a must – there is a way and a way not to install

Single color (with shadowing) is least expensive.  Multi-color probably means 
multi-layers or some type of graphic printing on blank vinyl.  I don’t know how 
long the printing lasts.

Hope this helps.

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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Bob,  how much was the cost for the dry ice blasting?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or
On Oct 22, 2015 8:18 AM, "robert via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I had the bottom dry ice blasted.took about 5 hours.great job,
> little to know mess.shop vaced the old paint from the ground in 20
> minutes.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi David,
>
> I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be
> good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. The
> guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're doing to
> avoid digging into the gelcoat)
>
> As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed to trap
> moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local knowledge /
> recommendations as different waters / climates dictate different
> approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse for osmosis.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
> > I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint
> > in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
> >
> > 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> > uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat
> and
> > little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> > experience with the two technologies?
> >
> > 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> > the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era
> C&C,
> > it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> > amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on multiple barrier
> > coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few
> coats?
> > Thanks- Dave
> >
> > Aries
> > 1990 C&C 34+
> > New London, CT
> Regards
> --
>
> *François Rivard*  4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
> Big Data Black Belt  Atlanta, 30327-3015 IBM Sales & Distribution,
> Software Sales  Usa Mobile: 770-639-0429
> e-mail: jfriv...@us.ibm.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

You'll probably find that the vinyl will last longer than paint and be
easier to remove/replace.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 22, 2015 10:53 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear
> down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was thinking
> of peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What type of
> paint do you suggest I use? Brightside?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I may be biased, living in the land of 3M here, but their vinyl and automotive 
marking products are pretty hard to beat.  I was also going to suggest checking 
with the vinyl company to make sure you could get 3M marking products.  The 
name on my transom has lasted for twelve years now, and still looks new.

Edd, I’d still suggest vinyl over paint — just make sure to get the good stuff.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dennis, 
> 
> Talk to the sign company.  Mine quoted a 3M film and gave UV spec, thickness, 
> and warranty period.  Different products and product lines have different 
> longevity.  My black letters were a 12 year guarantee but some have failed in 
> the first season.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Oct 22, 2015 12:25 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and 
> service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.  
> 
> The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I removed 
> it to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several iterations of the 
> Touche' logo on the side windows of my SUV's.  
> 
> The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This company does 
> the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I had made at one of 
> the nationwide quickie sign companies.
> 
> IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer. 
> 
> I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for the 
> next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats so I 
> can deal with most suppliers.
> 
> Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I used the Boat US graphics, worked great.  On their website you just 
enter the letters, fonts, colors, etc, and they mail you the entire name 
on a plastic sheet.  You peel off a protective cover, place the sheet on 
the hull, press down, peel off the sheet and the letters are perfectly 
placed.  I've had mine on for six years and they still look great.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/22/2015 12:24 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality 
and service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.


The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I 
removed it to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several 
iterations of the Touche' logo on the side windows of my SUV's.


The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This 
company does the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I 
had made at one of the nationwide quickie sign companies.


IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer.

I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company 
for the next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several 
common formats so I can deal with most suppliers.


Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Talk to the sign company.  Mine quoted a 3M film and gave UV spec,
thickness, and warranty period.  Different products and product lines have
different longevity.  My black letters were a 12 year guarantee but some
have failed in the first season.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 22, 2015 12:25 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and
> service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.
>
> The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I
> removed it to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several iterations of
> the Touche' logo on the side windows of my SUV's.
>
> The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This company
> does the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I had made at
> one of the nationwide quickie sign companies.
>
> IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer.
>
> I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for
> the next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats
> so I can deal with most suppliers.
>
> Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
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Stus-List boom

[Harald Braun via CnC-List]

Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful 
squecking, grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still 
no luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?


Harald
Kitchener, On

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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I used a local sign company for mine and they have lasted nearly 30 years.  I 
wouldn't be surprised that bigger companies use thinner vinyl...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 12:24 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and 
> service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.  
> 
> The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I removed 
> it to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several iterations of the 
> Touche' logo on the side windows of my SUV's.  
> 
> The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This company does 
> the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I had made at one of 
> the nationwide quickie sign companies.
> 
> IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer. 
> 
> I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for the 
> next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats so I 
> can deal with most suppliers.
> 
> Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and
service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.

The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I removed
it to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several iterations of the
Touche' logo on the side windows of my SUV's.

The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This company
does the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I had made at
one of the nationwide quickie sign companies.

IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer.

I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for
the next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats
so I can deal with most suppliers.

Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 84

[Harald Braun via CnC-List]

I have a kicker and I checked that too but no it was the goose neck.

Harald
On 10/22/2015 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

1.  boom (Harald Braun)
2. Re:  Strengths of Various Adhesives mostly concerning
   portlights/windows (Tom Lynch)
3. Re:  boom (Indigo)
4. Re:  boom (Joel Aronson)
5. Re:  Painting Boat Name on Hull (Robert Boyer)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 11:24:58 -0400
From: Harald Braun 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List boom
Message-ID: <5628ffca.5010...@davenportcatering.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed

Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful
squecking, grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still
no luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?

Harald
Kitchener, On



--

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:30:19 -0500
From: Tom Lynch 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives mostly
concerning  portlights/windows
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My head is ready to explode!?

One of you guru / experts ought to write a book on very subject!

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Nice job, Derek.

Let me add to your post.

When I installed new ports in a 26 footer  (non C&C) couple weeks ago I
had similar thoughts and concerns.

I dry fiitted ports in place and held them with tape.  I then traced the
outline of the inside of ports on the protective film and removed film from
adhering surfaces.  Then took them to local glass shop where they applied a
special black paint on the adhering surfaces.  Don't know any details on
the paint but they said it actually improved adhesion.  It was matte and
slightly rough.  With the paint, I didn't have to worry about bubbles or
gaps in the sealant showing through.

After taping the outside of the port landings and the inside of the ports,
I applied a generous bead of black LifeSeal and installed the ports flush
wiith the cabin sides.  I had several pieces of wood furring or filler
strips precut.  I placed the strips against the ports and clamped them to
the lifelines with clamps to hold pressure on the ports.

Note:  the key here is to apply one large bead of sealant.  If you apply
two adjacent beads, you may trap air between the beads which will show if
you don't do the paint.

While the sealant was still fresh, I ran the backside of a plastic spoon
around the gap between the port lens and cabin side to create a nice
concave look.  Note: run the spoon in ONE direction only.

I didn't use any spacers.  Just made sure the lens was uniformly flush
with the cabin side and that I got lots of "squeeze out" around the gap.

Next day I removed strips and tape.  Any stray sealant was removed with a
pencil eraser.  Didn't want to use an adhesive remover for fear of damaging
the concave seal.

Done.  Nice job.  Pat on back.

Furring or filler strips are about 1.5 inches wide x 1/4 inch thick and
can be bought in 8 foot lengths at a big box store for about $1 each.  The
clamps were the 4 inch pony spring clamps that are about $4.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 11:33:43 -0400
From: Indigo 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List boom
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Is it possible that it's the vang and not the gooseneck that's causing the 
squeak?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT


On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:24, Harald Braun via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking, 
grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck. Really 
annoying in an 

Re: Stus-List boom

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Check the fasteners on the gooseneck/boom joint.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:24 AM, Harald Braun via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking,
> grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck.
> Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
>
> Harald
> Kitchener, On
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I believe the vinyl letters will last much longer than paint.  My vinyl 
lettering has lasted nearly 30 years!

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Remove the old vinyl with a 3M stripe off wheel.  Don't use a blade.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear 
>> down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was thinking 
>> of peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What type of 
>> paint do you suggest I use? Brightside? 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List boom

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

or the outhaul?  There is a 4:1 block system inside my boom.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 11:33 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:

> Is it possible that it's the vang and not the gooseneck that's causing the
> squeak?
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> > On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:24, Harald Braun via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful
> squecking, grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no
> luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
> >
> > Harald
> > Kitchener, On
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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> >
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>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List boom

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Is it possible that it's the vang and not the gooseneck that's causing the 
squeak?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:24, Harald Braun via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking, 
> grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck. Really 
> annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
> 
> Harald
> Kitchener, On
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives mostly concerning portlights/windows

[Tom Lynch via CnC-List]

My head is ready to explode!☺

One of you guru / experts ought to write a book on very subject!

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Nice job, Derek.
>
> Let me add to your post.
>
> When I installed new ports in a 26 footer  (non C&C) couple weeks ago I
> had similar thoughts and concerns.
>
> I dry fiitted ports in place and held them with tape.  I then traced the
> outline of the inside of ports on the protective film and removed film from
> adhering surfaces.  Then took them to local glass shop where they applied a
> special black paint on the adhering surfaces.  Don't know any details on
> the paint but they said it actually improved adhesion.  It was matte and
> slightly rough.  With the paint, I didn't have to worry about bubbles or
> gaps in the sealant showing through.
>
> After taping the outside of the port landings and the inside of the ports,
> I applied a generous bead of black LifeSeal and installed the ports flush
> wiith the cabin sides.  I had several pieces of wood furring or filler
> strips precut.  I placed the strips against the ports and clamped them to
> the lifelines with clamps to hold pressure on the ports.
>
> Note:  the key here is to apply one large bead of sealant.  If you apply
> two adjacent beads, you may trap air between the beads which will show if
> you don't do the paint.
>
> While the sealant was still fresh, I ran the backside of a plastic spoon
> around the gap between the port lens and cabin side to create a nice
> concave look.  Note: run the spoon in ONE direction only.
>
> I didn't use any spacers.  Just made sure the lens was uniformly flush
> with the cabin side and that I got lots of "squeeze out" around the gap.
>
> Next day I removed strips and tape.  Any stray sealant was removed with a
> pencil eraser.  Didn't want to use an adhesive remover for fear of damaging
> the concave seal.
>
> Done.  Nice job.  Pat on back.
>
> Furring or filler strips are about 1.5 inches wide x 1/4 inch thick and
> can be bought in 8 foot lengths at a big box store for about $1 each.  The
> clamps were the 4 inch pony spring clamps that are about $4.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear 
down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was thinking of 
peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What type of paint do 
you suggest I use? Brightside? 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













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Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi David, 

I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be 
good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. The 
guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're doing to 
avoid digging into the gelcoat)

As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed to trap 
moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local knowledge / 
recommendations as different waters / climates dictate different 
approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse for osmosis. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 





> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and 
repaint
> in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
>
> 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat 
and
> little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> experience with the two technologies?
>
> 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era 
C&C,
> it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on multiple 
barrier
> coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few 
coats?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
Regards



François Rivard
 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

Big Data Black Belt
 Atlanta, 30327-3015
IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales
 Usa
Mobile:
770-639-0429
 

e-mail:
jfriv...@us.ibm.com
 

 
 


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Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives mostly concerning portlights/windows

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

When I replaced my portlights this spring I had planned to follow Don Casey's 
article but ended up not using the VHB. 

I have had good experience with VHB on a residential installation of steel 
panels as a surround for a gas fireplace. The VHB is bonding mild steel to 
painted drywall in this case and performs very well considering the temperature 
variation. So I like it and what it is capable of. 

When it came to the portlights, I had read that the expansion of the acrylic 
relative to the fibreglass is what causes the bond to fail, or could cause 
crazing/cracks in the acrylic. To get enough movement/flex out of the adhesive 
(or tape) it should be 3/16" to 1/4" thick between the fibreglass and acrylic. 
My portlights are approximately 60"x8" btw. I couldn't source the thicker VHB 
in Toronto, aside from a couple other concerns. The Casey article mentions 
backpainting the acrylic to hide the typically grey colour VHB. I became 
worried that the paint used then becomes the bonding surface which I can't 
really prove sticks as well to the acrylic. There was also a worry that the 
chemicals in the paint could etch and/or cause crazing in the acrylic -even the 
data sheet for Krylon Fusion had things that attack acrylic in it. I decided it 
might be best not to risk using the paint and just double up the thinner VHB 
that I could source locally. I then got to worrying that the VHB might not be 
UV stable behind the acrylic... and I didn't want to repeat this task for a 
while.

Finally, I picked up a case of Dow 795, since that was all I could find around 
here for quantity. I had read that you could install screws into the window 
recess to act as spacers for the 795, giving enough gap to allow the silicone 
to flex with the acrylic. I was concerned that the screws would be visible 
which didn't seem so great. I thought about the spacers that glass installers 
use for shower surrounds and mirrors and then thought about making spacers with 
the 795 itself. I spoke with a tech rep at Dow and he confirmed that unlike 
typical run of the mill silicone, 795 would in fact stick to itself. So I 
gooped lines of 795 on some scrap plastic, waited a week for it to cure, and 
cut it into little tiny bricks about 3/16"x3/16"x1". I did a tiny blob of 795 
behind these in the window recess with the spacers every 8" or so and then 
applied lots of 795 to bond the acrylic. I also sanded the bonding surface of 
the acrylic with 220 and wiped with isopropyl alcohol to clean. In retrospect, 
it would have been good to let the spacers cure before doing the acrylic since 
some of them shifted around during installation. To hold the acrylic in place, 
I made an MDF piece slightly smaller than the acrylic with plywood blocking 
screwed into it every 10". I clamped a 2x4 to the stanchions and with more 
plywood blocks, screwed everything together to apply the curvature to the 
acrylic and provide even pressure across the whole thing. I let the 795 cure 
for 10 days or so since it is very slow. 

My other worry with the acrylic was that an edge flaw could cause crazing, so I 
ended up band sawing the shape within 1/8" of the original, trim routing it 
flush with the original and then sanding from 80 up to 2000 grit to polish the 
edge. I also did a 1/8" chamfer on the outside since I thought it would look 
nice. 

They were installed this spring and have been great this summer. I think the 
real test will be surviving a Canadian winter and seeing how things look next 
fall. 

Derek McLeod 
1983 29-2, Aileron 
Toronto

> On Oct 21, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
> 
> Fred.
>  Based on Don Casey's article, the 3M VHB tape is for adhesion and the 
> 795 DOW Corning silicone sealant is just for sealing.  No?
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Based on the data, it sounds like VHB with LifeSeal would be a great 
>> combination (four times stronger than with Dow 795).  Has anyone tried that 
>> yet?  Or am I going to be the first guinea pig?   :^)
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 7:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> LifeSeal is my "go to" sealant.  Haven't used 4200 (polyurethane) or 
>>> silicone in months. 
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> 
>> 
> 
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Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

VHB tape is Ideal for portlights.. It's regularly used to bond window 
lenses on skyscrapers because of it's ability to seal the water out and 
have to right amount of strenght / flex for structural glazing.. 

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Industries/Architechure/VHB/


It's even used to replace rivets: 
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Brands/3M-VHB-Tape/


Just sayin' 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2015 18:43:54 -0400
From: Robert Boyer 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives
Message-ID: <5af2baf8-90f4-4fea-a08b-d4ef3974c...@icloud.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Remember that VHB tape is typically used on outdoor signs--it is not meant 
for any structural purpose.

Flexibility is probably more important than strength for the adhesive..

Dow 795 is silicone.

Bob



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Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[robert via CnC-List]

I put 7 coats of Interprotect 2000E on the bottom 10 years ago and the 
bottom is fine..don't apply a barrier coat immediately after 
haulout..let the bottom dry for 6 months.


There are lots of boats at our club that have had the same thing done 
with no problems.   Like most jobs, if it's done right, there should be 
no problem.


One of the local brokers, Ocean Yacht Sales, uses a barrier coat on 
older boats  as a 'sales feature' to prospective clients.  I had my boat 
surveyed last week (insurance required) and the surveyor felt the 
barrier coat was a 'positive' not a 'negative' when told how it was done.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-21 7:44 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:


I spoke the yard today about barrier coating.  Their experience was it 
trapped moisture which causes the barrier coat to fail.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

On Oct 21, 2015 1:26 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and
repaint in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:

1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the
lower uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on
the gelcoat and little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone
have any comments or experience with the two technologies?

2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom
painting, but the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed
that for a 1990 era C&C, it should not need barrier coating.  That
would dramatically reduce the amount of painting next spring if I
don’t need to put on multiple barrier coats.  Do people agree that
it is not needed?  Compromise of a few coats?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Replacing Windows

[robert via CnC-List]

Gary:

I sent you the process I used 'off list'.

The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure 
how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you 
take the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface. I used Sika 295 
UV with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold 
the curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.


Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace 
them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' 
email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

Fred,
 The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to 
look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the 
winter, also.  We should keep in touch. Do I assume you would use the 
gray VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the 
VHB tape will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so 
the windows will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of 
the cabin.  I wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick 
acrylic trying to  return to a flat shape?


Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over
the winter. I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat);
this time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach,
like Paul did on Johanna Rose:
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.

I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
WI   :^(


On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Paul,
  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has
5/16"  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience
would change the design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But
then again...

  The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is
less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are
probably trading one problem for another.

   As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in
the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if
(big if) the bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he
added glass beads to the adhesive to make sure the bond thickness
didn't get thinner than 0.030".

   Thoughts, anyone?

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA



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Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I had also read of SCS2000 being used as a structural adhesive for skyscraper 
windows, and also I am pretty sure Lexan.  So, As an experiment I glued two 
pieces of Polycarbonate together  with SCS2000, let it sit for a month, and 
pulled them apart. Unfortunately, it didn’t take a whole lot of effort to do. 

Needless to say, I won’t be using that for my next window job.

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 10:07 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows

 

Fred,

 The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to look 
like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the winter, also.  
We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray VHB tape with the 
gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape will be a problem with 
peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows will have to be bent slightly 
to conform to the side of the cabin.  I wonder if that will be a problem with 
the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to  return to a flat shape?

 

Gary




~~~_/)~~

 

On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the winter.  
I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time, I’m going to 
try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on Johanna Rose: 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.

 

I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Yup, that was item #2 on my list of work activities.

An engine is a positive displacement air pump. It 
will spit water out the exhaust once you start 
rolling it over, as I'm sure you've noticed before.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:05 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:
When I had my engine hydrolocked, I was on the 
hard, so this was not the issue. However, I 
don’t imagine that you can pump much water when you turn the engine by hand.


One thing that nobody mention yet (and it should 
be done) – remove at least some water from the 
exhaust side of your engine. If you got 
hydrolocked, it means that your muffler is full 
of water and it is now backing up.


On my Perkins there is a rubber piece that 
connects the heat exchanger to the exhaust. I 
removed that piece and sucked out all the water 
I could get at. My Pela pump earned its keep that day.


You want to have at least some spare capacity 
for water when you start the engine again. No 
question, if you do it in the water, close the 
seacock. You don’t want to add more water to the problem.


Marek

From: Indigo via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

Isn't another "easy" way to turn over the engine 
repeatedly before starting with the seasick 
open?  I have been told to shut the sea cock 
after one or two failed starting attempts 
(beginning of season / cold weather) and only 
re-open when the engine is running.


Presumably this would be the same advice you 
would give if hand cranking the engine to remove water from a hydro lock?


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Oct 22, 2015, at 00:04, Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



An interesting question would how did you manage to hydro lock it.



The easiest way is to use garden hose to feed 
water into the cooling system with a failed 
impeller. But what method did you use?




Marek



Sent from Mail for Windows 10






From: David Pulaski via CnC-List
Sent: October 21, 2015 16:02
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Pulaski
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!


Well this is a crappy way to end the 
season.  Short story is, I'm 99% positive that 
I managed to get water in the cylinders in my 
Yanmar 3GM30F, and now have a 
hydrolock.  Thankfully, the engine was not 
running when it happened, but I *did* attempt 
to crank the motor with the starter a couple of 
times before I realized what had happened.  So 
now, I'm worried  about significant damage from two angles:


1) Bent rods/crank/pistons?  I'm inclined to 
think that the starter motor doesn't have 
nearly as much torque as the engine operating 
under normal load, so I'm hoping that my 
attempts to crank didn't permanently do any damage such as this.  Thoughts?


2) Time: Unfortunately I can't get back there 
with tools and equipment to attempt to rectify 
the hydrolock until Sunday, which means the 
engine will have been sitting there with water 
in the cylinders for almost 4 days.  It's 
mostly fresh / brackish water  (boat's on a 
mooring in a river mouth).  Chances of 
corrosion in the cylinders requiring a teardown?


Anyone have any experiences with hydrolocks they'd care to share?

Ugh...



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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Marek,
 I agree.  You should check the oil before starting the engine.  If
there is evidence of water in the oil, you should change it first before
starting the engine and then again after running it for a while.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 8:58 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I also run the engine once the water was out of cylinders, but I am not
> sure if this is a good idea. The oil got very nicely mixed with water
> (completely grey, evenly mixed emulsion). It was difficult to pump that
> mess out. Honestly, I don’t know what is better: mix the water with oil and
> pump it out or pump out the oil and water _before_ they get mixed together.
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:54 AM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Gary Russell 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!
>
> Dave,
>  I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep.  I hydrolocked my Universal Diesel a
> few years ago (no anti-siphon loop in the exhaust plumbing).  Tried to
> start it but it wouldn't turn over.  Like you, I thought it had a dead
> battery so a added 4 more house batteries.  Starter got hot, but didn't
> turn over.  At this point it occurred to me that the engine was
> hydrolocked.  A couple of days later I took a BIG socket wrench and SLOWLY
> turned the engine over.  It wasn't easy, but it eventually turned over.
> You have it much easier, because Yanmars have a compression release on the
> top of the vale cover.  Just release the compression and turn the engine
> over and it will expel the water.  After several rotations, I started the
> engine.  I ran it for a few minutes and then changed the oil and filter.
> After 5 years, it still runs great (just sold it).
>
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 3:47 AM, David Pulaski via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday
>> when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.
>>
>> So here's how I managed to do this:
>>
>> I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  First
>> I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I
>> got everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake
>> seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the
>> cockpit sole, filled with pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running
>> through the opening port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine
>> compartment, connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed
>> simple enough: I could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket,
>> adding more if necessary.
>>
>> My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I was
>> just using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end
>> up in the cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me that the small
>> height differential would be enough to push water past the raw water pump
>> into the cylinders, but apparently it did.  I didn't realize what had
>> happened until I attempted to start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over.
>> At first I thought the batteries didn't have enough juice to restart after
>> my cold startup a few moments earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of
>> times, and then it dawned on me.
>>
>> I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the
>> manifold riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm having a
>> stupid moment but I'm really still scratching my head over this.  I really
>> didn't pour much down the hose, just a couple of cups.   But I'm actually
>> somewhat hopeful that the contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze -
>> should give some corrosion protection I'm hoping.
>>
>> Until sunday...
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

as I mentioned before, I suggest two oil changes. I still found water in the 
oil after the first one. Not much, but you don’t want any, especially if you 
are laying it over for the winter.

Marek

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 1:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

Hi David,

you are lucky, insomuch as these yanmar engines are very durable. 

An attempt to start this cold engine if it is hydro'd is unlikely to bend a con 
rod. Being compression start it must have a couple of compression cycles to 
develop enough heat to fire the first cylinder. No glow plugs is simple and a 
benefit in this case. 
Item 1) = good news

Item 2) don't fret about the time to get back. It's something you have no  
control over. As I said, these engines are durable and the internals are coated 
with oil... that's good. right?

I suggest the following: 
  a.. drain the oil & replace with a few litres of cheap stuff (you don't need 
a bunch a additives for this stage) 
  b.. close raw water inlet 
  c.. operate the decompression level and bar the engine over by hand 
  d.. if you don't feel any "humps" after a while the okay to proceed to bar 
engine using decompression & starter (45 second intervals & 1 minutes rest, max 
10 times) 
  e.. wait 15 minutes and repeat with application of WD 40 spray into intake 
(WD 40 is light and has fish oil, better than PB Blaster for this) 
  f.. open raw water intake 
  g.. start engine normally using decompression 
  h.. warm up in gear to normal operating temperature (30 minutes or more @ 
2000 RPM) 
  i.. shutdown, wait 15 minutes and drain oil 
  j.. change oil filter & refill with preferred oil 





At 01:01 PM 21/10/2015, you wrote:

  Well this is a crappy way to end the season.  Short story is, I'm 99% 
positive that I managed to get water in the cylinders in my Yanmar 3GM30F, and 
now have a hydrolock.  Thankfully, the engine was not running when it happened, 
but I *did* attempt to crank the motor with the starter a couple of times 
before I realized what had happened.  So now, I'm worried  about significant 
damage from two angles:

  1) Bent rods/crank/pistons?  I'm inclined to think that the starter motor 
doesn't have nearly as much torque as the engine operating under normal load, 
so I'm hoping that my attempts to crank didn't permanently do any damage such 
as this.  Thoughts?

  2) Time: Unfortunately I can't get back there with tools and equipment to 
attempt to rectify the hydrolock until Sunday, which means the engine will have 
been sitting there with water in the cylinders for almost 4 days.  It's mostly 
fresh / brackish water  (boat's on a mooring in a river mouth).  Chances of 
corrosion in the cylinders requiring a teardown?

  Anyone have any experiences with hydrolocks they'd care to share?

  Ugh...



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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

When I had my engine hydrolocked, I was on the hard, so this was not the issue. 
However, I don’t imagine that you can pump much water when you turn the engine 
by hand.

One thing that nobody mention yet (and it should be done) – remove at least 
some water from the exhaust side of your engine. If you got hydrolocked, it 
means that your muffler is full of water and it is now backing up.

On my Perkins there is a rubber piece that connects the heat exchanger to the 
exhaust. I removed that piece and sucked out all the water I could get at. My 
Pela pump earned its keep that day.

You want to have at least some spare capacity for water when you start the 
engine again. No question, if you do it in the water, close the seacock. You 
don’t want to add more water to the problem.

Marek

From: Indigo via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Indigo 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

Isn't another "easy" way to turn over the engine repeatedly before starting 
with the seasick open?  I have been told to shut the sea cock after one or two 
failed starting attempts (beginning of season / cold weather) and only re-open 
when the engine is running. 

Presumably this would be the same advice you would give if hand cranking the 
engine to remove water from a hydro lock?


--
Jonathan 
Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT

On Oct 22, 2015, at 00:04, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
wrote:


  An interesting question would how did you manage to hydro lock it.

   

  The easiest way is to use garden hose to feed water into the cooling system 
with a failed impeller. But what method did you use?

   

  Marek

   

  Sent from Mail for Windows 10

   

   


  From: David Pulaski via CnC-List
  Sent: October 21, 2015 16:02
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: David Pulaski
  Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

   

   

  Well this is a crappy way to end the season.  Short story is, I'm 99% 
positive that I managed to get water in the cylinders in my Yanmar 3GM30F, and 
now have a hydrolock.  Thankfully, the engine was not running when it happened, 
but I *did* attempt to crank the motor with the starter a couple of times 
before I realized what had happened.  So now, I'm worried  about significant 
damage from two angles:

  1) Bent rods/crank/pistons?  I'm inclined to think that the starter motor 
doesn't have nearly as much torque as the engine operating under normal load, 
so I'm hoping that my attempts to crank didn't permanently do any damage such 
as this.  Thoughts?

  2) Time: Unfortunately I can't get back there with tools and equipment to 
attempt to rectify the hydrolock until Sunday, which means the engine will have 
been sitting there with water in the cylinders for almost 4 days.  It's mostly 
fresh / brackish water  (boat's on a mooring in a river mouth).  Chances of 
corrosion in the cylinders requiring a teardown?

  Anyone have any experiences with hydrolocks they'd care to share?

  Ugh...



   

   

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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi David,

Well, I guess you can forget about warming up under load when you get 
'er running. I didn't think about that weird ritual, hauling boats 
from the water, that you guys, who are beyond Hope, do each year.


For me, anything an hour & a half east of Vancouver is beyond Hope :)
https://www.google.ca/maps/@49.3891711,-121.5364525,12z

cheers, Russ

At 12:47 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:
Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until 
Sunday when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.


So here's how I managed to do this:

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the 
water.  First I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 
30-45 minutes, while I got everything ready.  After I shut it down 
and closed the raw water intake seacock, here was my winterizing 
plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit sole, filled with pink 
antifreeze.  A length of hose running through the opening port in 
the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, connected 
to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed simple enough: 
I could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding 
more if necessary.


My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I 
was just using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose 
from the end up in the cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me 
that the small height differential would be enough to push water 
past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but apparently it 
did.  I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to start 
the engine, and it wouldn't turn over.  At first I thought the 
batteries didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold startup 
a few moments earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of times, and 
then it dawned on me.


I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the 
manifold riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm 
having a stupid moment but I'm really still scratching my head over 
this.  I really didn't pour much down the hose, just a couple of 
cups.   But I'm actually somewhat hopeful that the contents of the 
cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion 
protection I'm hoping.


Until sunday...

-Dave




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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I also run the engine once the water was out of cylinders, but I am not sure if 
this is a good idea. The oil got very nicely mixed with water (completely grey, 
evenly mixed emulsion). It was difficult to pump that mess out. Honestly, I 
don’t know what is better: mix the water with oil and pump it out or pump out 
the oil and water _before_ they get mixed together.

Marek

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:54 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

Dave, 
 I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep.  I hydrolocked my Universal Diesel a few 
years ago (no anti-siphon loop in the exhaust plumbing).  Tried to start it but 
it wouldn't turn over.  Like you, I thought it had a dead battery so a added 4 
more house batteries.  Starter got hot, but didn't turn over.  At this point it 
occurred to me that the engine was hydrolocked.  A couple of days later I took 
a BIG socket wrench and SLOWLY turned the engine over.  It wasn't easy, but it 
eventually turned over.  You have it much easier, because Yanmars have a 
compression release on the top of the vale cover.  Just release the compression 
and turn the engine over and it will expel the water.  After several rotations, 
I started the engine.  I ran it for a few minutes and then changed the oil and 
filter.  After 5 years, it still runs great (just sold it).

Gary

~~~_/)~~



On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 3:47 AM, David Pulaski via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday 
when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.

  So here's how I managed to do this:

  I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  First I 
just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got 
everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake 
seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit 
sole, filled with pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running through the 
opening port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, 
connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed simple enough: I 
could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding more if 
necessary.

  My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I was just 
using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end up in the 
cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me that the small height differential 
would be enough to push water past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but 
apparently it did.  I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to 
start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over.  At first I thought the batteries 
didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold startup a few moments 
earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of times, and then it dawned on me.

  I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold 
riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm having a stupid moment 
but I'm really still scratching my head over this.  I really didn't pour much 
down the hose, just a couple of cups.   But I'm actually somewhat hopeful that 
the contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion 
protection I'm hoping.

  Until sunday...

  -Dave



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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

David,

this is exactly how I managed mine – I primed the hose until one of the 
cylinders was full (;-).

I can tell you that your impeller is dead (this is why you needed to prime or 
why the AF kept coming down the hose).

Marek

From: David Pulaski via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David Pulaski 
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday when 
I can get there to try to resolve this situation.

So here's how I managed to do this:

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  First I 
just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got 
everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake 
seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit 
sole, filled with pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running through the 
opening port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, 
connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed simple enough: I 
could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding more if 
necessary.

My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I was just 
using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end up in the 
cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me that the small height differential 
would be enough to push water past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but 
apparently it did.  I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to 
start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over.  At first I thought the batteries 
didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold startup a few moments 
earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of times, and then it dawned on me.

I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold 
riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm having a stupid moment 
but I'm really still scratching my head over this.  I really didn't pour much 
down the hose, just a couple of cups.   But I'm actually somewhat hopeful that 
the contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion 
protection I'm hoping.

Until sunday...

-Dave





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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Dave,
 I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep.  I hydrolocked my Universal Diesel a
few years ago (no anti-siphon loop in the exhaust plumbing).  Tried to
start it but it wouldn't turn over.  Like you, I thought it had a dead
battery so a added 4 more house batteries.  Starter got hot, but didn't
turn over.  At this point it occurred to me that the engine was
hydrolocked.  A couple of days later I took a BIG socket wrench and SLOWLY
turned the engine over.  It wasn't easy, but it eventually turned over.
You have it much easier, because Yanmars have a compression release on the
top of the vale cover.  Just release the compression and turn the engine
over and it will expel the water.  After several rotations, I started the
engine.  I ran it for a few minutes and then changed the oil and filter.
After 5 years, it still runs great (just sold it).

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 3:47 AM, David Pulaski via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday
> when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.
>
> So here's how I managed to do this:
>
> I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  First
> I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I
> got everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake
> seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the
> cockpit sole, filled with pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running
> through the opening port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine
> compartment, connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed
> simple enough: I could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket,
> adding more if necessary.
>
> My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I was
> just using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end
> up in the cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me that the small
> height differential would be enough to push water past the raw water pump
> into the cylinders, but apparently it did.  I didn't realize what had
> happened until I attempted to start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over.
> At first I thought the batteries didn't have enough juice to restart after
> my cold startup a few moments earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of
> times, and then it dawned on me.
>
> I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold
> riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm having a stupid
> moment but I'm really still scratching my head over this.  I really didn't
> pour much down the hose, just a couple of cups.   But I'm actually somewhat
> hopeful that the contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should
> give some corrosion protection I'm hoping.
>
> Until sunday...
>
> -Dave
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Isn't another "easy" way to turn over the engine repeatedly before starting 
with the seasick open?  I have been told to shut the sea cock after one or two 
failed starting attempts (beginning of season / cold weather) and only re-open 
when the engine is running. 

Presumably this would be the same advice you would give if hand cranking the 
engine to remove water from a hydro lock?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 00:04, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> An interesting question would how did you manage to hydro lock it.
>  
> The easiest way is to use garden hose to feed water into the cooling system 
> with a failed impeller. But what method did you use?
>  
> Marek
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
>  
> 
> From: David Pulaski via CnC-List
> Sent: October 21, 2015 16:02
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David Pulaski
> Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!
>  
>  
> Well this is a crappy way to end the season.  Short story is, I'm 99% 
> positive that I managed to get water in the cylinders in my Yanmar 3GM30F, 
> and now have a hydrolock.  Thankfully, the engine was not running when it 
> happened, but I *did* attempt to crank the motor with the starter a couple of 
> times before I realized what had happened.  So now, I'm worried  about 
> significant damage from two angles:
> 
> 1) Bent rods/crank/pistons?  I'm inclined to think that the starter motor 
> doesn't have nearly as much torque as the engine operating under normal load, 
> so I'm hoping that my attempts to crank didn't permanently do any damage such 
> as this.  Thoughts?
> 
> 2) Time: Unfortunately I can't get back there with tools and equipment to 
> attempt to rectify the hydrolock until Sunday, which means the engine will 
> have been sitting there with water in the cylinders for almost 4 days.  It's 
> mostly fresh / brackish water  (boat's on a mooring in a river mouth).  
> Chances of corrosion in the cylinders requiring a teardown?
> 
> Anyone have any experiences with hydrolocks they'd care to share?
> 
> Ugh...
> 
> 
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[David Pulaski via CnC-List]

Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday when 
I can get there to try to resolve this situation.

So here's how I managed to do this:

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  First I 
just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got 
everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake 
seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit 
sole, filled with pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running through the 
opening port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, 
connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed simple enough: I 
could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding more if 
necessary.

My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I was just 
using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end up in the 
cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me that the small height differential 
would be enough to push water past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but 
apparently it did.  I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to 
start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over.  At first I thought the batteries 
didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold startup a few moments 
earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of times, and then it dawned on me.

I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold 
riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm having a stupid moment 
but I'm really still scratching my head over this.  I really didn't pour much 
down the hose, just a couple of cups.   But I'm actually somewhat hopeful that 
the contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion 
protection I'm hoping.

Until sunday...

-Dave

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