Stus-List Water Ingress

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

On my trip to New England, Pegathy was taking on a lot of water while underway. 
Turned out to be an open hose attached to a no longer used thru hull near the 
stern. The thru hull was above water line at rest, and below while underway. It 
dumped enough water in to put the floorboards under in a 38. Double yikes. 
Got'cha beat, Touche, but I don't want the trophy.  I would look near the stern 
for such a problem, perhaps a cracked cockpit drain hose (since the leak is 
relatively slow, or a bilge pump hose, if that thru hull is under water while 
motoring. I suspect it'll be an easy fix. Also, you might see if the lower 
rudder grudgeon has a leak. That might be under water while under way, too. 
Might be harder to fix.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish Dancer.
My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to live on and
capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm extremely
excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but this is my
first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring you all with
a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.

First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
suggestions on what works or doesn't?

Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night
away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a
holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.

On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.

Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881

Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.

Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like
a great community.

Sam

Spanish Dancer
C 35 mk III
San Francisco
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Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

Sounds cool, quite an adventure.  High altitude big mountain skiing for
sure?  Thanks for sharing that story.  Do you by chance have a link to
pictures you could share? Maybe share them off list?

 

bcrawf7...@comcast.net

 

Fellow Skier

Brad Crawford

C 36

Seattle, WA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Hoyne via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:21 AM
To: Gaynor Hoyne; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Hoyne
Subject: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

 

The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a headstart
on the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski mountaineering trip to
Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit of a trip description 

 

Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting high
on volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of breath
:-) sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes to
17,000' we did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked our
skiis to the base of the glacier at 17,000' and promptly got headaches and a
bad sleep so we went to town to recover. The next day we went back and with
a 3AM start we hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to the summit
at 19,000'. We skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and crevasses. We
had to jump a few crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was rather thin, 1"
of crusty snow over isothermal ice, made for some nice corn skiing. The
nearby volcano Cotopaxi was erupting and spewing a fine ash all over the
snow. It was interesting skiing black snow (not good for the bases however).


 A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another 18,700'.
We had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding issues. We
negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and down required
and lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few hours route
finding on the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs and finding
the best way to ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass crevasses, but
made it back to safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12 hour day. 

Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate
change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm
dry weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth climbing
maybe not hauling skiis up to ski. 

I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to
Bow Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It's amazing how much
oxygen there is at this elevation!! Life is good!

Now, should I do a little sailing in January :-)

 

Happy Holidays to all you C listers!!

 

Bill

 

 

Bill Hoyne

Mithrandir

'74 C MkII

in Victoria,BC

 

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Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I just posted some information about replacing the DC motor in a wheel 
autopilot.  The motor in my SPX-5 recently died.  I purchased the same motor 
which Raymarine uses for $6.95, installed it, and it’s working.


If anyone is interested, here is the link:  
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/12/replacing-burnt-out-wheel-autopilot.html



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor

[William Walker via CnC-List]

EXCELLENT.  I am saving this.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi

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Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Apologies to the non-skiers on the list.  Yeah, $100+ is a bit painful.
OTH, there are bargains available (and we know how much sailboat owners
like bargains.  There, it's sailing related).  I'm skiing 4 days at
Steamboat, 4 days at Winter Park, several days at Copper Mountain and
Crested Butte this year on a $569 pass.  I also get access to Eldora, CO if
I choose to go.  Also included are discounted single day tickets for
friends.  Very good deal if you are skiing 5+ days.

Vail offers various passes for their resorts.  Really good deals also if
you plan well and buy early.

I will be skiing in Colorado much of January, early February and again in
March if any listers are out there.  Have truck, will ski!  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 7:44 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Enivous about equador, and you living in BC and skiing anywhere but BC.
>
> On another note, I think I have given up on skiing in Whistler so it’s all
> yours!  I think they have finally hit my personal affordability index with
> $119 for a tow ticket. Explains why you are skiing in Colorado!
>
> Cheers
> Rick
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA
>
> On Dec 14, 2015, at 5:31 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Sounds cool, quite an adventure.  High altitude big mountain skiing for
> sure?  Thanks for sharing that story.  Do you by chance have a link to
> pictures you could share? Maybe share them off list?
>
> bcrawf7...@comcast.net
>
> Fellow Skier
> Brad Crawford
> C 36
> Seattle, WA
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Bill Hoyne via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 14, 2015 9:21 AM
> *To:* Gaynor Hoyne; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Hoyne
> *Subject:* Stus-List : off topic Skiing
>
> The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a
> headstart on the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski
> mountaineering trip to Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit
> of a trip description
>
> Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting
> high on volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of
> breath :-) sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes
> to 17,000’ we did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked
> our skiis to the base of the glacier at 17,000’ and promptly got headaches
> and a bad sleep so we went to town to recover. The next day we went back
> and with a 3AM start we hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to
> the summit at 19,000’. We skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and
> crevasses. We had to jump a few crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was
> rather thin, 1” of crusty snow over isothermal ice, made for some nice corn
> skiing. The nearby volcano Cotopaxi was erupting and spewing a fine ash all
> over the snow. It was interesting skiing black snow (not good for the bases
> however).
>  A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another
> 18,700’. We had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding
> issues. We negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and
> down required and lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few
> hours route finding on the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs
> and finding the best way to ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass
> crevasses, but made it back to safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12
> hour day.
> Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate
> change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm
> dry weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth
> climbing maybe not hauling skiis up to ski.
> I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to
> Bow Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It’s amazing how much
> oxygen there is at this elevation!! Life is good!
> Now, should I do a little sailing in January :-)
>
> Happy Holidays to all you C listers!!
>
> Bill
>
>
> *Bill Hoyne*
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

That is always scary, the sing feeling. (pun intended) . I had that once on
my Catalina 36. First sail of the season, sailing hard off and away from
the harbor, suddenly a lot of water. We immediately turned around, 10 miles
from shore. While my wife was steeriing, I investigated the problem.
It turns out that the galley sink hose had come off. It is draining
directly below. The hose fell over so the open tip was below waterline.
Just closed the thruhull
Since then I make sure to close the galley drain thruhll when I am sailing.
On the Irwin 43, the sink will fill up if I heel hard to starboard.
Ahmet
On Dec 14, 2015 8:38 PM, "Daniel Sheer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> On my trip to New England, Pegathy was taking on a lot of water while
> underway. Turned out to be an open hose attached to a no longer used thru
> hull near the stern. The thru hull was above water line at rest, and below
> while underway. It dumped enough water in to put the floorboards under in a
> 38. Double yikes. Got'cha beat, Touche, but I don't want the trophy.  I
> would look near the stern for such a problem, perhaps a cracked cockpit
> drain hose (since the leak is relatively slow, or a bilge pump hose, if
> that thru hull is under water while motoring. I suspect it'll be an easy
> fix. Also, you might see if the lower rudder grudgeon has a leak. That
> might be under water while under way, too. Might be harder to fix.
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy LF38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

Thank you for all the feedback. Motor mount might be the culprit. I will
check out all suggestions
Ahmet
On Dec 14, 2015 9:39 PM, "Sailnomad"  wrote:

> That is always scary, the sing feeling. (pun intended) . I had that once
> on my Catalina 36. First sail of the season, sailing hard off and away from
> the harbor, suddenly a lot of water. We immediately turned around, 10 miles
> from shore. While my wife was steeriing, I investigated the problem.
> It turns out that the galley sink hose had come off. It is draining
> directly below. The hose fell over so the open tip was below waterline.
> Just closed the thruhull
> Since then I make sure to close the galley drain thruhll when I am
> sailing. On the Irwin 43, the sink will fill up if I heel hard to starboard.
> Ahmet
> On Dec 14, 2015 8:38 PM, "Daniel Sheer via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> On my trip to New England, Pegathy was taking on a lot of water while
>> underway. Turned out to be an open hose attached to a no longer used thru
>> hull near the stern. The thru hull was above water line at rest, and below
>> while underway. It dumped enough water in to put the floorboards under in a
>> 38. Double yikes. Got'cha beat, Touche, but I don't want the trophy.  I
>> would look near the stern for such a problem, perhaps a cracked cockpit
>> drain hose (since the leak is relatively slow, or a bilge pump hose, if
>> that thru hull is under water while motoring. I suspect it'll be an easy
>> fix. Also, you might see if the lower rudder grudgeon has a leak. That
>> might be under water while under way, too. Might be harder to fix.
>>
>> Dan Sheer
>> Pegathy LF38
>> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have the ubiquitous Alder-barbor.  Installed by the PO.  The compressor
is installed in the transom directly behind my head when I'm sleeping.  I
don't have any complaints regarding noise.

I would caution you about upgrading too quickly though.  Ice is cheap and
dry ice keeps for a considerable amount of time.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 14, 2015 9:38 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish
> Dancer.  My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to
> live on and capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm
> extremely excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but
> this is my first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring
> you all with a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.
>
> First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
> refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
> suggestions on what works or doesn't?
>
> Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night
> away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a
> holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
> That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
> compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
> plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.
>
> On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
> up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
> starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
> similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
> the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
> what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.
>
> Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
>
> Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
> noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.
>
> Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like
> a great community.
>
> Sam
>
> Spanish Dancer
> C 35 mk III
> San Francisco
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List off topic Skiing

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

$119 CAD is only $87 in US dollars!  Plus, since you're a Washington
resident you can get the Edge card which is $76 USD for 1 day. That's only
$7 more than Steven's Pass at $69, and Whistler has a lot more terrain. The
5 hour drive is what deters me though. Stevens had 9" of powder yesterday,
really fun time.

-Patrick
C LF 38
Seattle, WA

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 5:45 PM,  wrote:

>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Rick Rohwer 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2015 17:44:16 -0800
> Subject: Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing
> Enivous about equador, and you living in BC and skiing anywhere but BC.
>
> On another note, I think I have given up on skiing in Whistler so it’s all
> yours!  I think they have finally hit my personal affordability index with
> $119 for a tow ticket. Explains why you are skiing in Colorado!
>
> Cheers
> Rick
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA
>
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Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Enivous about equador, and you living in BC and skiing anywhere but BC. 

On another note, I think I have given up on skiing in Whistler so it’s all 
yours!  I think they have finally hit my personal affordability index with $119 
for a tow ticket. Explains why you are skiing in Colorado!

Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Dec 14, 2015, at 5:31 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
>  
> Sounds cool, quite an adventure.  High altitude big mountain skiing for sure? 
>  Thanks for sharing that story.  Do you by chance have a link to pictures you 
> could share? Maybe share them off list?
>  
> bcrawf7...@comcast.net 
>  
> Fellow Skier
> Brad Crawford
> C 36
> Seattle, WA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hoyne 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:21 AM
> To: Gaynor Hoyne; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Hoyne
> Subject: Stus-List : off topic Skiing
>  
> The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a headstart 
> on the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski mountaineering trip to 
> Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit of a trip description 
>  
> Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting high 
> on volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of breath 
> :-) sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes to 
> 17,000’ we did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked our 
> skiis to the base of the glacier at 17,000’ and promptly got headaches and a 
> bad sleep so we went to town to recover. The next day we went back and with a 
> 3AM start we hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to the summit at 
> 19,000’. We skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and crevasses. We had 
> to jump a few crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was rather thin, 1” of 
> crusty snow over isothermal ice, made for some nice corn skiing. The nearby 
> volcano Cotopaxi was erupting and spewing a fine ash all over the snow. It 
> was interesting skiing black snow (not good for the bases however). 
>  A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another 18,700’. 
> We had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding issues. We 
> negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and down required 
> and lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few hours route finding 
> on the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs and finding the best 
> way to ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass crevasses, but made it 
> back to safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12 hour day. 
> Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate 
> change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm 
> dry weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth climbing 
> maybe not hauling skiis up to ski. 
> I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to Bow 
> Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It’s amazing how much 
> oxygen there is at this elevation!! Life is good!
> Now, should I do a little sailing in January :-)
>  
> Happy Holidays to all you C listers!!
>  
> Bill
>  
>  
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Paul

Thanks for the excellent post!
Joel

On Monday, December 14, 2015, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I just posted some information about replacing the DC motor in a wheel
> autopilot.  The motor in my SPX-5 recently died.  I purchased the same
> motor which Raymarine uses for $6.95, installed it, and it’s working.
>
>
> If anyone is interested, here is the link:
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/12/replacing-burnt-out-wheel-autopilot.html
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Look at the Isotherm 3701 system.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
mandeville, LA

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 8:37 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish
> Dancer.  My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to
> live on and capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm
> extremely excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but
> this is my first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring
> you all with a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.
>
> First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
> refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
> suggestions on what works or doesn't?
>
> Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night
> away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a
> holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
> That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
> compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
> plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.
>
> On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
> up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
> starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
> similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
> the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
> what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.
>
> Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
>
> Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
> noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.
>
> Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like
> a great community.
>
> Sam
>
> Spanish Dancer
> C 35 mk III
> San Francisco
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Welcome to the group. You seem to be considering your options wisely. 
Systems relying on shorepower seem to be the most common way to go. You could 
probably run refrigeration off of batteries, but AC needs more amps to start 
the compressor and lying at anchor will eventually require a good sized 
generator. Plus, when at anchor, you usually have some breeze to stay cool, so 
don't need AC. 

I added 120v reverse cycle 16000 BTU on our 35.5 ft 34R. It does a nice job 
when it's 100 degrees. Also heats the boat when it's 40 out. Chose to wait on 
refrigeration since ice is cheap and no maintenance. 

I would encourage you to do your projects so you also keep the boat sailable, 
otherwise you may feel a slave to the boat. Plan the big projects for the 
winter and sail as much as possible. I learned that the hard way. 
Good luck with the boat. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Sam Wheeler"  
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:37:42 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III 

Hi everyone, 

I'm new here. I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish Dancer. My 
goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to live on and capable 
enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm extremely excited about 
this one. I've been sailing since I was a kid but this is my first (non-dinghy) 
boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring you all with a lot of stupid 
questions over the next few months. 

First up: Refrigeration. My boat doesn't have it. Has anyone added 
refrigeration to a 35-3? How's the stock insulation in the ice chest? Any 
suggestions on what works or doesn't? 

Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night away 
from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a holding plate 
system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system. That would keep the 
load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the compressor running as 
often, and it should store enough cooling in the plate to last for daysails and 
short trips away from the dock. 

On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined up, 
and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit starts 
to look pretty appealing. Has anyone used that or something similar? I'm a 
little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting the compressor 
(which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with what looks like 
minimal insulation between it and the evaporator. 

Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
 

Focusing on air cooling at the moment. I'd rather listen to compressor noise 
and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in. 

Thanks in advance! I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like a 
great community. 

Sam 

Spanish Dancer 
C 35 mk III 
San Francisco 

___ 

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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Josh: Yes - thinking about alternating current if I go with a holding plate
refrigeration system (for food and drink) that could stay cold for an
extended period without power.  My fault on the first email, I looked back
on it and realized that the "AC" reference was really misleading.

For the climate here, I have zero interest in air conditioning for the
cabin.

Mooring balls aren't really an option in my area, and I don't have any
immediate plans to add solar, so it'll be shore power for a while at least,
with all the disadvantages that go along with that.  Thanks for the
suggestion though.  A DC fridge would give me a lot more flexibility if
circumstances change sometime down the line.

Doug: Thanks for all the details.  If you have a chance to take a photo of
the installation next time you're on the boat I'd be interested, but don't
go out of your way.

Also just realized that I called Jake "James" in my last email.  Sorry
about that.  Great way to make a first impression on my part...

Sam

Spanish Dancer
C 35 mk III
San Francisco

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sam,
>
> After reading other's posts it appears to me that there may have been some
> confusion.  The "AC system" to which you referred is an alternating current
> system for refrigerating food not an Air Conditioning system, correct?
>
> The air cooling you referred to was instead of a keel cooler or water
> cooled refrigeration (again for food), correct?
>
> I apologize for creating some confusion too since I simply referred to my
> system as an aldor-barbour.  I originally failed to follow your link but
> now realize that you had linked to an aldor-barbour system.  So more
> accurately stated mine is a two piece system.  I do not know anything about
> the install process for mine but did talk to a rep from nova-cool who
> described being able to easily connect/disconnect the fittings without
> losing the refrigerant.  That rep also stated that typically a 100w solar
> panel produced enough power to keep the fridge going 24/7.  This is
> particularly nice if you're ever considering keeping the boat on a mooring
> ball.  The only reason I stay on shore power is to keep the fridge cold.
> So getting solar is a high priority for me.  Cutting the cord can save
> zincs, minimize risk of fire and risk of shock.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Dec 14, 2015 9:38 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish
>> Dancer.  My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to
>> live on and capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm
>> extremely excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but
>> this is my first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring
>> you all with a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.
>>
>> First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
>> refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
>> suggestions on what works or doesn't?
>>
>> Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a
>> night away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with
>> a holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
>> That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
>> compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
>> plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.
>>
>> On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
>> up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
>> starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
>> similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
>> the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
>> what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.
>>
>> Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
>> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
>>
>> Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
>> noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems
>> like a great community.
>>
>> Sam
>>
>> Spanish Dancer
>> C 35 mk III
>> San Francisco
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> 

Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

Hi Brad,
When I gather all the photos together I’l try to post them.
Bill

> On Dec 14, 2015, at 6:31 PM, Brad Crawford  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
>  
> Sounds cool, quite an adventure.  High altitude big mountain skiing for sure? 
>  Thanks for sharing that story.  Do you by chance have a link to pictures you 
> could share? Maybe share them off list?
>  
> bcrawf7...@comcast.net 
>  
> Fellow Skier
> Brad Crawford
> C 36
> Seattle, WA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hoyne 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:21 AM
> To: Gaynor Hoyne; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Hoyne
> Subject: Stus-List : off topic Skiing
>  
> The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a headstart 
> on the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski mountaineering trip to 
> Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit of a trip description 
>  
> Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting high 
> on volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of breath 
> :-) sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes to 
> 17,000’ we did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked our 
> skiis to the base of the glacier at 17,000’ and promptly got headaches and a 
> bad sleep so we went to town to recover. The next day we went back and with a 
> 3AM start we hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to the summit at 
> 19,000’. We skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and crevasses. We had 
> to jump a few crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was rather thin, 1” of 
> crusty snow over isothermal ice, made for some nice corn skiing. The nearby 
> volcano Cotopaxi was erupting and spewing a fine ash all over the snow. It 
> was interesting skiing black snow (not good for the bases however). 
>  A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another 18,700’. 
> We had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding issues. We 
> negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and down required 
> and lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few hours route finding 
> on the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs and finding the best 
> way to ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass crevasses, but made it 
> back to safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12 hour day. 
> Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate 
> change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm 
> dry weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth climbing 
> maybe not hauling skiis up to ski. 
> I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to Bow 
> Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It’s amazing how much 
> oxygen there is at this elevation!! Life is good!
> Now, should I do a little sailing in January :-)
>  
> Happy Holidays to all you C listers!!
>  
> Bill
>  
>  
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC

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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Thanks, everyone!  I'll keep it all in mind and let you know what I end up
doing.

To clarify, I was considering an AC (as opposed to DC) holding plate
refrigeration system if it's going to run off shore power anyway.  No need
for air conditioning here in SF, thankfully.

In terms of just using ice instead, I think for anything short of living
aboard that's probably what I'd do.  I'm hoping to be on the boat full time
by April though so for everyday use I'd rather have refrigeration.

If someone out there has used a one piece kit, I'd still be really
interested about your experience with it.  The simplicity is tempting but I
haven't found any firsthand reviews.  Point taken on the installation,
James, but it seems like I should be able to cut a hole from the aft side
of the ice box so the compressor extends into the port lazarette.  Thoughts?

Sam

Spanish Dancer
C 35 mk III
San Francisco

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 7:29 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Welcome to the group.  You seem to be considering your options wisely.
> Systems relying on shorepower seem to be the most common way to go.  You
> could probably run refrigeration off of batteries, but AC needs more amps
> to start the compressor and lying at anchor will eventually require a good
> sized generator.  Plus, when at anchor, you usually have some breeze to
> stay cool, so don't need AC.
>
> I added 120v reverse cycle 16000 BTU on our 35.5 ft 34R.  It does a nice
> job when it's 100 degrees.  Also heats the boat when it's 40 out.  Chose to
> wait on refrigeration since ice is cheap and no maintenance.
>
> I would encourage you to do your projects so you also keep the boat
> sailable, otherwise you may feel a slave to the boat.  Plan the big
> projects for the winter and sail as much as possible.  I learned that the
> hard way.
> Good luck with the boat.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Sam Wheeler" 
> *Sent: *Monday, December 14, 2015 9:37:42 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish
> Dancer.  My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to
> live on and capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm
> extremely excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but
> this is my first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring
> you all with a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.
>
> First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
> refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
> suggestions on what works or doesn't?
>
> Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night
> away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a
> holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
> That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
> compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
> plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.
>
> On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
> up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
> starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
> similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
> the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
> what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.
>
> Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
>
> Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
> noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.
>
> Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like
> a great community.
>
> Sam
>
> Spanish Dancer
> C 35 mk III
> San Francisco
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

___

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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Sam,
I purchased a 1985 35-III about three years ago, and one of the initial 
upgrades was refrigeration. I wanted cold beer for my crew and I whenever we 
were out sailing or at the dock talking over the days race. I installed a 
Domestic CU-86 CoolMatic 80 Series Condensing Unit - Air Cooled, with a 
Domestic VD-09 CoolMatic 80 Series Evaporating Unit. I liked the CU-86 unit 
because it is smaller than most compressor units. It is designed so that it can 
be mounted on a bulkhead (no need to fabricate a shelf). In the case of the 35, 
it hangs on the bulkhead behind the ice box. Easy install. Nice and neat, out 
of the way. It generates almost no heat, and I never hear it running. It seems 
to be very efficient because I can sail all day 5-6 hrs running a complete set 
of instruments, a sail comp unit, 2 GPS's, an inverter powered laptop, with the 
refrigeration on two group 31 batteries with minimal battery loss. I'm in 
Michigan and the summers are generally in the 80's. I have not added any 
insulation to the box, and beer is always cold.

The unit was purchased online from Defender Marine. The CU-86 Condensing Unit 
was $755.00, and the VD-09 Evaporating Unit was $260.00. If your interested I 
can send you pictures of the installation.

I don't have any experience with the unit you referenced. I'm not sure how to 
install that unit on a 35 III. With the unit I described, I can keep a bag of 
ice cubs in the evaporator for cool drinks, which also makes the unit more 
efficient. I would go with a DC system if it were me. Its always running, 
always cold whether you are at the dock on shore power or out on the water.


Doug Allardyce
"BULLET"
C 35 MK III

_/)~~~_/) ~~~

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:38 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Sam Wheeler
  Subject: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III


  Hi everyone,


  I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish Dancer.  
My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to live on and 
capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm extremely excited 
about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but this is my first 
(non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring you all with a lot of 
stupid questions over the next few months.


  First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added 
refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any 
suggestions on what works or doesn't?


  Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night 
away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a holding 
plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.  That would keep 
the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the compressor running 
as often, and it should store enough cooling in the plate to last for daysails 
and short trips away from the dock.


  On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined up, 
and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit starts 
to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something similar?  I'm a 
little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting the compressor 
(which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with what looks like 
minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.


  Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881


  Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor noise 
and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.


  Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like a 
great community.


  Sam


  Spanish Dancer
  C 35 mk III
  San Francisco___

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Re: Stus-List Threaded bolt

[Charles Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Brian,
When affixing an autopilot tiller arm, the primary “attachment” of the arm to 
the rudder post is the clamping tolerance of the arm to the post, generally 
bored .002-.003” undersize to achieve a good grip on the post.  There are three 
secondary attachment methods that can be utilized to prevent the arm from 
slipping on the post in the event of a hard grounding, loose clamping bolts, 
etc.
The most commonly used secondary method is that of a keyway on the arm that 
would match up to the factory installed keyway on the post (which most C 
will have).  This is a simple installation method that requires no drilling or 
machining by the installer. A square key is placed in the keyway on the post 
and when the tiller arm clamps in place, the key stock prevents the arm from 
slipping on the post.

 The second most common is “pinning” or through bolting the arm to the post. 
Typically this method is used with a hollow stainless post with no keyway cut 
in the post (or if the keyway doesn’t extend far enough on the post to match 
the positioning of the arm on the post.  The through bolt serves like an 
oversized cotter pin and when the tiller arm is supplied by the manufacturer 
(such as Edson), the arm has a hole drilled in the cap of the arm only.  The 
installer positions the arm in place on the post and then uses the hole on the 
cap as a pilot hole to drill through the rudder post (all the way through) and 
then through the rest of the hub of the tiller arm.  The through bolt is then 
installed and nutted to secure it in place.  This through bolt is never tapped 
into the arm or rudder post itself.

The final method used, mostly when the rudder post is made of solid steel as 
opposed to hollow pipe,  is a set screw fastener.  There are typically two 3/8” 
set screws drilled and tapped into the cap of the tiller arm.  The rudder post 
must then be drilled and tapped so that the threads for the set screws extend 
into the post, thus creating a positive attachment.  Simply dimpling the post 
and tightening the set screws against the dimples actually works against the 
attachment as the set screws will actually pull the cap away from the post if 
tightened down too hard.

From the images I’m looking at with your boat, I would assume that the set 
screw method is what is on your boat.  I can’t tell if the auto pilot tiller 
arm is made from bronze or aluminum, but if aluminum, stainless set screws have 
a nasty habit of galvanically seizing up if an anti seize compound isn’t 
utilized.  In that case, the method of heating the arm to free the bolt as I 
described in the earlier email is what seems to work best.  As Josh suggested, 
the front half of the tiller arm should remove easily  if the 4 clamping bolts 
are removed.  Typically, stainless bolts threaded into bronze don’t seize very 
easily and can be extracted without much drama, even if cross threaded.

Best of luck,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic 25 Mk1 1975
Pandaram, MA

Soon to be the owner  (pending survey) of:
S/V Orion   1983 LF 35 


> On Dec 12, 2015, at 1:55 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Brian I still can't understand what the bolt is for.  Does the rudder shaft 
> have a groove or key way?  Does it align with the threaded bolt?  Did the 
> front/arm part come off when you removed the 4 bolts?
> 
> To reply to postings or responses to your original post, simply hit reply and 
> leave the subject the same.  Since the subject is the same many of our modern 
> day email clients will automatically compile the emails with the same subject 
> or RE: or FWD: as part of the same conversation.  Try to keep the message 
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> Normally if the original message came from cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>  then a reply would automatically populate the 
> TO: section with cnc-list@cnc-list.com  which 
> will be subsequently and automatically forwarded to all list subscribers.  If 
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> cnc-list@cnc-list.com  with their address in 
> the TO: section of your new email.
> 
> Let me know how things go,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Dec 12, 2015 11:44 AM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Thank you for your replies. I havent figured out how to reply to the posts, 
> so I will just reply here.
> 
> The threaded rod appears to be threaded into the shaft, on one side only.
> The 4 bolts holding the arm and clamp together came apart easily.
> I tried first with vice grips. No dice.
> Now trying to rethread to try the 2 nut idea.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 

Re: Stus-List Annapolis yacht club

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Many of the ships models in glass cases were saved.​  No word on the
trophys, but the major trophy case was near the back of the club near many
of the models away from the worst of the fire.
News reports say they will rebuild elsewhere.  They have 2 large parcels on
the Eastport side of the creek and were planning an annex on one of them.

Joel

On Sun, Dec 13, 2015 at 12:26 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Apparently, it was from a christmas tree that caught on fire. Also, I hear
> there were no sprinklers in there. Just got off the phone with an AYC
> member ordering a replacement for his half model that got burned up.
> I'll get a lot of business from this, but I really wish it hadn't
> happened. been entertained royally at that club!
>
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> Newport, RI
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 13, 2015 at 10:44 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> From the photos it does not look like any boats were damaged.
>>
>> Cause has not been determined.  Its unclear if they can rebuild, or if
>> the building has to be demolished.  It is concrete slab.
>>
>> Lots of trophys and photos were probably lost.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, December 12, 2015, Joel Aronson 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> No word yet. The fire boat was there.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, December 12, 2015, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 What does this mean for folks with their boats at the docks?
 Bob M
 Ox 33-1
 Jax, FL

 On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 4:38 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There was a three alarm fire at Annapolis yacht club this afternoon.
> No one was hurt. The building may be a total loss.
>
> Joel
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>

>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Water tank leaking?

Scupper drain hose?

Rudder post?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 14, 2015 11:46 AM, "Sailnomad via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely
> no water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in,
> maybe 2 quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
> I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts
> seem to be tight and I have no "smile".
>
> I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the
> keel bolts.
> Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created
> on the leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.
>
> Ahmet
> S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
> S/V Tabasco C 25
> Winthrop, MA, USA
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I've had the same problem and it turned out that there was no anti-siphon
loop in the bilge pump lime to the transom.  The water siphons back to the
pump and you can get a lot of water in that way.  My floor board were
submerged in a 35 footer.  Yikes!

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 11:45 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely
> no water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in,
> maybe 2 quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
> I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts
> seem to be tight and I have no "smile".
>
> I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the
> keel bolts.
> Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created
> on the leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.
>
> Ahmet
> S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
> S/V Tabasco C 25
> Winthrop, MA, USA
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I finally crawled into the lazarette this weekend.  The vent hose is looped
under the coaming on my 35/3, so the loop is nearly a foot higher than the
thru-hull under the toe-rail.  Once again, the guys in Niagara on the Lake
got it right!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact coming in the
> vent line.
> If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it.
>
> I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a time, but not
> causing an
> issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up. That would
> leave the
> owner wondering how a gallon of water got in.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:13:32 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Stus-List Other fuel system water ingress sources
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> While we're on the subject, two other things to check:
>
> 1.  Fuel fill cap gasket o-ring
> 2.  Fuel fill cap if plastic.  It could be cracked.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:38:03 -0900
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Michael,
>
> I can see what you were going for and I think it would partially work.
> Ideally a larger drop-out tank could be attached to the drain fitting and
> a
> fluid sensor added.   In my case it seems simpler to just re-plumb the
> vent
> inside the adjacent propane locker or up a lifeline stanchion.  I don't
> think it would out perform a centerline vent loop either.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Change the hoses for your cockpit drains. The outlets on the transom dip 
under water while underway, and old hoses can leak enough to do exactly 
what you are describing. When you buy new hoses, spend the extra money 
on fuel rated hose. You never know what might get spilled in the cockpit 
in the next 15 or 20 years.


Bill Bina

On 12/14/2015 11:45 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List wrote:


When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is 
absolutely no water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get 
some water in, maybe 2 quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts 
seem to be tight and I have no "smile".


I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the 
keel bolts.
Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure 
created on the leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.


Ahmet
S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
S/V Tabasco C 25
Winthrop, MA, USA



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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Could it be siphoning in through your bilge pump discharge hose?

Doug
"BULLET"
C 35 MK III

_/)~~~_/) ~~~
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 11:46 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Sailnomad
  Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ??


  When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
  I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem 
to be tight and I have no "smile".

  I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
bolts.
  Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on 
the leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.

  Ahmet
  S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
  S/V Tabasco C 25
  Winthrop, MA, USA

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Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a headstart on 
the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski mountaineering trip to 
Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit of a trip description 

Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting high on 
volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of breath :-) 
sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes to 17,000’ we 
did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked our skiis to the 
base of the glacier at 17,000’ and promptly got headaches and a bad sleep so we 
went to town to recover. The next day we went back and with a 3AM start we 
hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to the summit at 19,000’. We 
skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and crevasses. We had to jump a few 
crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was rather thin, 1” of crusty snow over 
isothermal ice, made for some nice corn skiing. The nearby volcano Cotopaxi was 
erupting and spewing a fine ash all over the snow. It was interesting skiing 
black snow (not good for the bases however). 
 A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another 18,700’. We 
had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding issues. We 
negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and down required and 
lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few hours route finding on 
the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs and finding the best way to 
ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass crevasses, but made it back to 
safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12 hour day. 
Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate 
change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm dry 
weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth climbing maybe 
not hauling skiis up to ski. 
I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to Bow 
Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It’s amazing how much oxygen 
there is at this elevation!! Life is good!
Now, should I do a little sailing in January :-)

Happy Holidays to all you C listers!!

Bill


Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C MkII
in Victoria,BC

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Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely
no water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in,
maybe 2 quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem
to be tight and I have no "smile".

I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel
bolts.
Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on
the leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.

Ahmet
S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
S/V Tabasco C 25
Winthrop, MA, USA
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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[David via CnC-List]

Outboard bracket bolts leaking?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2015 11:45:43 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ??
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: sailno...@gmail.com

When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.

I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem to 
be tight and I have no "smile".
I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
bolts.

Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on the 
leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.
Ahmet

S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I

S/V Tabasco C 25

Winthrop, MA, USA



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This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected 
by Avast. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Any chance there is a crack in a cockpit drain hose and under motor when the 
boat says a bit it is forcing water through the hose Crack? Rain water and such 
would likely flow straight through without significant or any leakage.
Just a thought and easier than removing and retourquing keel bolts. 


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Sailnomad via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-12-14  12:45  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sailnomad  
Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ?? 

When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.

I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem to 
be tight and I have no "smile".
I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
bolts.

Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on the 
leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.
Ahmet

S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I

S/V Tabasco C 25

Winthrop, MA, USA


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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

[Indigo via CnC-List]

This explains why I never get any fuel dripping out of the vent before the fill 
pipe overflows!  How do others make sure the tank is full without causing a 
small spill? (Especially with a less than sensitive fuel gauge!)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Dec 14, 2015, at 12:14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I finally crawled into the lazarette this weekend.  The vent hose is looped 
> under the coaming on my 35/3, so the loop is nearly a foot higher than the 
> thru-hull under the toe-rail.  Once again, the guys in Niagara on the Lake 
> got it right!  
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
>> On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact coming in the 
>> vent line.
>> If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it.
>> 
>> I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a time, but not 
>> causing an
>> issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up. That would 
>> leave the
>> owner wondering how a gallon of water got in.
>> 
>> Michael Brown
>> Windburn
>> C 30-1
>> 
>> 
>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:13:32 -0500 
>> From: "Dennis C."  
>> To: CnClist  
>> Subject: Stus-List Other fuel system water ingress sources 
>> Message-ID: 
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
>> 
>> While we're on the subject, two other things to check: 
>> 
>> 1.  Fuel fill cap gasket o-ring 
>> 2.  Fuel fill cap if plastic.  It could be cracked. 
>> 
>> Dennis C. 
>> 
>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:38:03 -0900 
>> From: Josh Muckley  
>> To: "C List"  
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents 
>> Message-ID: 
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
>> 
>> Michael, 
>> 
>> I can see what you were going for and I think it would partially work. 
>> Ideally a larger drop-out tank could be attached to the drain fitting and a 
>> fluid sensor added.   In my case it seems simpler to just re-plumb the vent 
>> inside the adjacent propane locker or up a lifeline stanchion.  I don't 
>> think it would out perform a centerline vent loop either. 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+ 
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List C 33 mark 2 (1985)

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

I have the full keel version, in Whitby.  As with the others, I would have
no reservations about this engine in this boat.   The 33ii is a very easily
driven hull, it does not take much power at all.  Going into a chop is not
something you will not want to do for hours - its a light boat, and flat
bottomed forward.  A rough ride.  I have done it and the engine was
adequate but in the worst I slowed to 4.5kts.  (if memory serves)
Props matter a lot.  I have experimented with 3 different props in Windstar
and have found a huge difference.   First the original which was a very
tired folding Martec, not great.  A new folding Gori made all the
difference.  I would have your friend confirm what's on the boat and that
it is the correct diameter and pitch.
Dave





From: Bob Hickson 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C 33 mark 2 (1985)
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"




A good friend is interested in making an offer on a 33 mark 2 centerboard
version. The boat has a Yanmar 2GM20 with a 2 blade feathering prop - 16
Hp. This is the basically the same engine that I have in my 29 mk 2. It
would seem that the boat would be underpowered with this engine. Does
anyone have information that might help to answer this question. Did C
offer an option of the 2GM or 3GM engine in this boat?
Bob Hickson?Flying Colours 29 mk 2Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Check the bilge pump lines and the pump itself.

The discharge line from the pump should loop up under the aft end of the stbd 
seat before it drops down to the transom fitting.

The rubber flaps in the pump could be worn too, does it take a lot of pumps to 
prime the pump?

Checking the hoses on all the through-hulls is a good idea too.

There should be four for sure(cockpit X2, sink and lazerette drain) or five if 
you have a water intake for your head.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
Sent: December-14-15 12:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sailnomad
Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

 

When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem to 
be tight and I have no "smile".

I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
bolts.
Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on the 
leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.

Ahmet
S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
S/V Tabasco C 25
Winthrop, MA, USA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4483/11179 - Release Date: 12/14/15

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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I had the same setup on my 24.  Scuppers led straight down to a through hull 
with a sea cock. However,  if there is a leak above the water line it will only 
occur only when boat is in motion and transom is submerged or healed.  Try 
closing the through hull sea cock on one side at a time and see if you get the 
leak.   If it stops with one closed that is your culprit.  Leak has to be 
somewhere in the hose above the water line or else it would be constant.
Jerry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 14, 2015, at 11:17 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> The cockpit drains on a C 25 drain vertically through the hull via through 
> hulls with sea cocks, not aft through the transom.  Some early boats had gate 
> valves which should be changed for sure.  If  hoses or hose clamps were 
> leaking, you’d see water coming in all the time as the through hulls are 
> always submerged on this boat.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> C 25 Mk 1 1975
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
> - gmail via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 11:56 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Bina - gmail 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??
>  
> Change the hoses for your cockpit drains. The outlets on the transom dip 
> under water while underway, and old hoses can leak enough to do exactly what 
> you are describing. When you buy new hoses, spend the extra money on fuel 
> rated hose. You never know what might get spilled in the cockpit in the next 
> 15 or 20 years. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 12/14/2015 11:45 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List wrote:
> When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
> water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
> quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
> I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem 
> to be tight and I have no "smile".
> 
> I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
> bolts.
> Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on 
> the leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.
> 
> Ahmet
> S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
> S/V Tabasco C 25
> Winthrop, MA, USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Ahmet,

Half Magic, my 1975 25 Mk 1 always seems to have a small amount of bilge water, 
but as boldly as I can check, it always appears to be fresh water, which I 
suspect works its way through voids between the deck and hull, small cracks in 
the cockpit coaming or some other source.  My boat has had a slight “smile” 
since I purchased it in 2001, and I had an incident entering the channel at 
Cuttyhunk where I marked some submerged rocks with a bit of blue paint (just as 
a reference point for fellow mariners), but the keel/hull joint hasn’t seemed 
to weep water, either on the mooring or underway.  Half Magic had a Vire engine 
before I bought it, but the previous owner switched to an outboard and plugged 
all the inboard related through hulls prior to my purchase of the boat.

 

On a separate note, I’ve got a new boat under contract (35 Landfall) and Half 
Magic may be on the market soon.  I noticed in some of your earlier posts that 
you were asking about sails for racing/cruising.  I have two mainsails for my 
25, one is a North NorDac racing Main and the other a decent Thurston cross cut 
dacron (older).  I’ve kept the racing main just for that purpose and it have 
very limited use.  Additionally, I’ve got a 150 North Norlam Genoa with VERY 
low usage since Buzzards Bay tends to be more of a 15-25kt body of water 
whenever I’ve taken the boat out for racing.  My other two jibs are a bit 
older, a 135 Newport dacron sail and the other is a Mylar 100% Thurston, both 
are serviceable but not new and crisp like the others.

If you want to discuss any of these sails for your boat, I’m happy to do so…

Best regards,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

C 25 Mk 1  1975

 

Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 11:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sailnomad 
Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

 

When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem to 
be tight and I have no "smile".

I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
bolts.
Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on the 
leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.

Ahmet
S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
S/V Tabasco C 25
Winthrop, MA, USA

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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Bill,

The cockpit drains on a C 25 drain vertically through the hull via through
hulls with sea cocks, not aft through the transom.  Some early boats had
gate valves which should be changed for sure.  If  hoses or hose clamps were
leaking, you'd see water coming in all the time as the through hulls are
always submerged on this boat.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

C 25 Mk 1 1975

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 11:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

 

Change the hoses for your cockpit drains. The outlets on the transom dip
under water while underway, and old hoses can leak enough to do exactly what
you are describing. When you buy new hoses, spend the extra money on fuel
rated hose. You never know what might get spilled in the cockpit in the next
15 or 20 years. 

Bill Bina

On 12/14/2015 11:45 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List wrote:

When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem
to be tight and I have no "smile".

I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel
bolts.
Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on
the leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.

Ahmet
S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
S/V Tabasco C 25
Winthrop, MA, USA






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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Jonathan,

I rely mostly on sound and looking down the fill pipe when the pitch
changes.  Far from perfect!

Joel

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 4:41 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> This explains why I never get any fuel dripping out of the vent before the
> fill pipe overflows!  How do others make sure the tank is full without
> causing a small spill? (Especially with a less than sensitive fuel gauge!)
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Dec 14, 2015, at 12:14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I finally crawled into the lazarette this weekend.  The vent hose is
> looped under the coaming on my 35/3, so the loop is nearly a foot higher
> than the thru-hull under the toe-rail.  Once again, the guys in Niagara on
> the Lake got it right!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
> On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact coming in the
>> vent line.
>> If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it.
>>
>> I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a time, but not
>> causing an
>> issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up. That would
>> leave the
>> owner wondering how a gallon of water got in.
>>
>> Michael Brown
>> Windburn
>> C 30-1
>>
>>
>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:13:32 -0500
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Subject: Stus-List Other fuel system water ingress sources
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> While we're on the subject, two other things to check:
>>
>> 1.  Fuel fill cap gasket o-ring
>> 2.  Fuel fill cap if plastic.  It could be cracked.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:38:03 -0900
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Michael,
>>
>> I can see what you were going for and I think it would partially work.
>> Ideally a larger drop-out tank could be attached to the drain fitting and
>> a
>> fluid sensor added.   In my case it seems simpler to just re-plumb the
>> vent
>> inside the adjacent propane locker or up a lifeline stanchion.  I don't
>> think it would out perform a centerline vent loop either.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Same for me.  Listen and look.  My crew (especially the Admiral) thinks its
funny I need silence when filling the tank.

Ken H.

On 14 December 2015 at 18:04, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jonathan,
>
> I rely mostly on sound and looking down the fill pipe when the pitch
> changes.  Far from perfect!
>
> Joel
>
> On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 4:41 PM, Indigo via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> This explains why I never get any fuel dripping out of the vent before
>> the fill pipe overflows!  How do others make sure the tank is full without
>> causing a small spill? (Especially with a less than sensitive fuel gauge!)
>>
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>>
>> On Dec 14, 2015, at 12:14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I finally crawled into the lazarette this weekend.  The vent hose is
>> looped under the coaming on my 35/3, so the loop is nearly a foot higher
>> than the thru-hull under the toe-rail.  Once again, the guys in Niagara on
>> the Lake got it right!
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact coming in
>>> the vent line.
>>> If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it.
>>>
>>> I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a time, but not
>>> causing an
>>> issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up. That would
>>> leave the
>>> owner wondering how a gallon of water got in.
>>>
>>> Michael Brown
>>> Windburn
>>> C 30-1
>>>
>>>
>>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:13:32 -0500
>>> From: "Dennis C." 
>>> To: CnClist 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Other fuel system water ingress sources
>>> Message-ID:
>>> 
>>>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> While we're on the subject, two other things to check:
>>>
>>> 1.  Fuel fill cap gasket o-ring
>>> 2.  Fuel fill cap if plastic.  It could be cracked.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:38:03 -0900
>>> From: Josh Muckley 
>>> To: "C List" 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents
>>> Message-ID:
>>> 
>>>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> Michael,
>>>
>>> I can see what you were going for and I think it would partially work.
>>> Ideally a larger drop-out tank could be attached to the drain fitting
>>> and a
>>> fluid sensor added.   In my case it seems simpler to just re-plumb the
>>> vent
>>> inside the adjacent propane locker or up a lifeline stanchion.  I don't
>>> think it would out perform a centerline vent loop either.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

First, the vent on Touche' overflows before the fill so not quite the same
configuration as others.  I place an absorbent pad under the vent just in
case.

Touche's fuel gauge is fairly accurate but does peg out at "F" a bit before
the tank is topped off.  I do two things to avoid overflow.

Method 1 - I have meticulously logged every fuel addition with the
corresponding engine hours since the repower in 2003.  From that data, I've
calculated the fuel usage is always between 0.6 and 0.7 gph depending on
how hard we run the boat.  Using the low 0.6 gph number and the hours since
the last fuel addition, I can usually calculate how much fuel I've used and
thus how much I can add.  That is, 10 hours x 0.6 gph = 6 gallons.  So at
around 5 gallons, I slow the fuel addition rate and switch to method 2
below.

Method 2 - I use the tried and true method of placing my ear near the fill
and listening.  You can usually detect the change in sound when the fuel
begins to rise up the fill hose.

Your boat(s) maybe be different.

PS:  The large fuel dispensing hoses you encounter at fuel docks where they
fuel a lot of large boats complicate fueling our smaller tanked boats.  :(

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 3:41 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> This explains why I never get any fuel dripping out of the vent before the
> fill pipe overflows!  How do others make sure the tank is full without
> causing a small spill? (Especially with a less than sensitive fuel gauge!)
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Dec 14, 2015, at 12:14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I finally crawled into the lazarette this weekend.  The vent hose is
> looped under the coaming on my 35/3, so the loop is nearly a foot higher
> than the thru-hull under the toe-rail.  Once again, the guys in Niagara on
> the Lake got it right!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
> On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact coming in the
>> vent line.
>> If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it.
>>
>> I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a time, but not
>> causing an
>> issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up. That would
>> leave the
>> owner wondering how a gallon of water got in.
>>
>> Michael Brown
>> Windburn
>> C 30-1
>>
>>
>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:13:32 -0500
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Subject: Stus-List Other fuel system water ingress sources
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> While we're on the subject, two other things to check:
>>
>> 1.  Fuel fill cap gasket o-ring
>> 2.  Fuel fill cap if plastic.  It could be cracked.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:38:03 -0900
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Michael,
>>
>> I can see what you were going for and I think it would partially work.
>> Ideally a larger drop-out tank could be attached to the drain fitting and
>> a
>> fluid sensor added.   In my case it seems simpler to just re-plumb the
>> vent
>> inside the adjacent propane locker or up a lifeline stanchion.  I don't
>> think it would out perform a centerline vent loop either.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

When I replaced my leaking aluminum tank I used a plastic tank, luckily 
it's translucent enough that now I can just look at the tank and see the 
level.  I never go closer than 1" - 2" from the top when filling.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 12/14/2015 5:04 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Jonathan,

I rely mostly on sound and looking down the fill pipe when the pitch 
changes.  Far from perfect!


Joel

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 4:41 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
> wrote:


This explains why I never get any fuel dripping out of the vent
before the fill pipe overflows!  How do others make sure the tank
is full without causing a small spill? (Especially with a less
than sensitive fuel gauge!)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Dec 14, 2015, at 12:14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:


I finally crawled into the lazarette this weekend.  The vent hose
is looped under the coaming on my 35/3, so the loop is nearly a
foot higher than the thru-hull under the toe-rail.  Once again,
the guys in Niagara on the Lake got it right!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List
> wrote:

The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact
coming in the vent line.
If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it.

I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a
time, but not causing an
issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up.
That would leave the
owner wondering how a gallon of water got in.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:13:32 -0500
From: "Dennis C." >
To: CnClist >
Subject: Stus-List Other fuel system water ingress sources
Message-ID:
   
>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

While we're on the subject, two other things to check:

1.  Fuel fill cap gasket o-ring
2.  Fuel fill cap if plastic.  It could be cracked.

Dennis C.

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:38:03 -0900
From: Josh Muckley >
To: "C List" >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents
Message-ID:

>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Michael,

I can see what you were going for and I think it would
partially work.
Ideally a larger drop-out tank could be attached to the
drain fitting and a
fluid sensor added.   In my case it seems simpler to just
re-plumb the vent
inside the adjacent propane locker or up a lifeline
stanchion.  I don't
think it would out perform a centerline vent loop either.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


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-- 
Joel

301 541 8551 
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--
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301 541 8551


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