Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

They are definitely hangar bolts and they are lagged into 3/4" plywood
under the glass. I managed to cram a Raritan PHII in there, but it was a
tight squeeze.
Make sure you seal the old holes with epoxy, otherwise the base will rot
out and you will one day catapult out of the bog with the toilet attached.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 April 2016 at 14:13, Bruce Pope via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks guys.  Based on your knowledge I am now pretty certain that the
> existing bolts are hanger bolts bedded into fiberglass/plywood.  I will
> shop around here for SS versions of those and/or lag bolts.  Thanks Ed for
> the heads up on the seat lifting/opening.  I will make sure to check that
> before drilling.
>
> My boat is 2.5 hrs drive from home and is in the middle of nowhere so if I
> get to it without the right hardware,  I am hooped.
>
> Really helps having others provide advice so I can go back out with the
> right gear in my bag!
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Edward
> Levert via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, April 11, 2016 1:38 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Edward Levert
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch
>
> Bruce:
>
> I recently replaced the original head on my 1981 C 34. The original
> "bolts" were not bolts at all but were what I think are called hanger bolts
> - part screw and part bolt. The screw part was into the pan on which the
> head sits. The head was held down by cap nuts. Remove the head and back out
> the hanger bolts. I carefully measured for the base of the new head,
> drilled, and used SS lag bolts. The new head mounts firmly.
>
> I did run into a placement problem. A wall of the head compartment was
> angled thus reducing the space directly behind the head. I had the new head
> bolted down and plumbed. When I put the toilet seat on, the angled wall
> prevented the seat from lifting/opening fully. Solved the problem by
> reversing the side of the pump relative to the bowl but had to re-drill for
> the lag bolts. Good luck.
>
> Ed
> Briar Patch C 34
> New Orleans, La.
>
> On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello.
>>
>>
>> I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new
>> Jabsco.The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan
>> that the head sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does
>> not match these.  There is no access to the underside of the pan.
>> Any ideas I've come up with for creating new mounts depend on knowing the
>> thickness of the pan.
>>
>> Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?
>>
>> Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?
>>
>> I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the
>> pan is hollow - thinking this would be easiest.
>>
>> I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with
>> resin/adhesive) in new holes if the pan is solid.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>>
>> '86 C 29 MK II
>>
>> Kootenay Lake, BC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Peter. I looked again tonight at the "gap" between bulkhead and floor 
pan on my boat. There's actually no gap, except at the lower inboard corners of 
the bulkhead where the door to the head is cut out of the bulkhead. In those 
corners there's a gap about a half-inch high and a half inch wide, on both 
sides. Just enough for the edge of a 2'x4' oval throw rug in the head / v-berth 
to squeeze under. Other than that the bulkhead butts up nicely to the floor 
pan, hull, deck, cabin top etc. all the way around. Everything is symmetric and 
looks undamaged. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Peter Fell"  
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 5:44:45 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 

Forgot to include the list in the ‘to’ 
From: Peter Fell 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 4:43 PM 
To: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 
That was about 4 years ago and I don’t recall all the fine details of all the 
discussions I had on the subject. There’s probably some stuff in the archives 
on it. If I recall correctly the gap was large on the port side and pretty-much 
non-existent on the starboard side and the mast step (or the pan) was canted 
off-level. The survey we had done suggested that the rig be de-tensioned to see 
if the bulkhead came back down. But the surveyor I must admit seemed somewhat 
baffled by it all. 
In the end we didn’t de-tension the rig as things started to degrade once the 
owner, through the broker, had me talk to a ‘C expert’ who swore up and down 
that C NEVER used untreated / unsealed plywood in the mast steps of 30-1’s. I 
think the were multiple things happening here  as I said, a mast step well 
on its way to collapsing, cabin sole pan in that area warping, rig tension and 
I also suspect that the mast brackets and/or the mast through-holes they were 
attached to were stretched-out, causing the cabin-top to pull-up under halyard 
tension at the turning blocks. 
There were some other less-than-forthcoming responses from the owner and in the 
end we decided to walk on the deal. 
So I’m assuming here you still have a gap with the mast out of the boat and I’m 
also assuming the boat is on the hard at this time and that bulkhead is being 
used for the support pads? Given there is a gap there, things have moved. Might 
be hard to line everything back up unless the boat was in the water but I would 
also think there’d be some ‘memory’ involved there as well. But I would suspect 
a 1/2-inch gap is probably in the ‘monitor it’ range. 
Peter Fell 
Sidney, BC 
Cygnet 
C 27 MkIII 
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 2:57 PM 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 
Thanks Peter. Does a gap between the bulkhead and cabin sole pan necessarily 
represent a problem? On my boat there's a gap of < 1/2" on each side. There's 
also some creaking noise from the sole pan in the head / V-berth area when I 
walk on it which makes me think the fiberglass of the sole pan has broken down 
some. But according to Don Casey's inspection procedures and advice (plus a 
professional survey), the hull is in good shape, and the boat is 44 years 
old... 
Thanks, 
Randy 
- Original Message -

From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Peter Fell"  
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 12:44:27 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 
Check the whole area of the bulkhead. We had a 30-1 surveyed that turned out to 
have a sinking mast step and also potentially other issues so that the bulkhead 
had pulled up out of the cabin sole pan (or the pan had dropped / distorted) by 
about 1-inch on the port side and to a lesser extend on the starboard. Probably 
a combination of mast step, mast brackets, shroud tension (and possibly a 
couple long-distance overland moves that the boat had undertaken). 
The yard quoted well over $7000 to fix. 
There is some info / pics of solutions applied to the mast step on the 
cncphotoalbum site under do-it-yourself  for a much more cost-effective 
fix. 
Peter Fell 
Sidney, BC 
Cygnet 
C 27 MkIII 

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greatly appreciated! 

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Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

The 35 MK I shares this flaw. It was a lot of time on my belly chiseling out 
rotten old wood to fix it.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina

C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 8:29 PM
To: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Cc: Edward Levert ; cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

 

Randy:

 

We were delivering the boat back to New Orleans after purchase. I knew of the 
potential flaw but the surveyor was not able to see the support structure. Had 
boat itch to replace my C 27 lost in Katrina. I took a chance. 

 

Close hauled with main and a 110 in 15 kts wind, 30 minutes into the sail I 
sensed something slipped. Under sail, the pressure on the windward shrouds 
seemed normal. Sent my son below to check and the report was not good. The mast 
step collapsed. We killed the sails and headed up Mobile Bay under power. The 
rig was now loosely goosey as we rolled in the following sea. We tried to 
stabilize it by squeezing the shrouds together with line. A worrisome 4 hr 
motor up the bay to the marina complex at Dog River not knowing how or if the 
butt of the mast was working against the hull. The wood plate under the step 
fractured as  well as some of the transverse members. 

 

If you do the repairs yourself, be sure to use pvc pipe to leave access to the 
forward keel bolt if you fill in the gaps between the stringers.

 

Ed

Briar Patch, C 34

New Orleans, La

 



On Monday, April 11, 2016,  > wrote:

Thanks Ed.  The story at 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm is informative. 
 Someone who owned the boat before me had already cut a rectangular hole in the 
cabin sole next to forward port dinette bench, and fashioned a thick wood block 
to fill the hole and span the two cross supports.  They just didn't go so far 
as to rebuild the cross supports.  The above story looks like a reasonable way 
to do it.

 

So when your step failed, what happened?  Did those timbers, and the floor pan, 
just break, causing your mast to drop 6-9"?

 

Cheers,
Randy

 


  _  


From: "Edward Levert via CnC-List"  >
To: "cnc-list"  >
Cc: "Edward Levert"  >
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 1:57:05 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

 

Randy:

 

Check the "Do it yourself" section of the Photo Album for a description and a 
photograph of the repair. My C 30 Mk 1, Hull 19(?) had the step fail on the 
1st sail. I was in Mobile Bay at the time of failure and had the step rebuilt 
by a professional who was the Boatwright for the US Olympic teams in China and 
England. The rebuilt the step is similar to the description in the Photo Album, 
differing by filling in the gaps between the cross supports with epoxy/filler. 
Total cost in 2006 was about $1200 plus the cost of mast unstopping/ stepping. 
The repair required cutting out part of the cabin floor pan to allow access to 
glass in the new supports. 

 

Ed

Briar Patch, C 34

New Orleans, La.

 

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 
> wrote:

Listers-

 

Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast step to 
inspect beneath.  The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily sealed wood block 
~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short timbers running athwartship 
which I'm sure are intended to take the load of the mast and transfer it to the 
hull.  Those two timbers have been wet and appear to be a rot risk.  The PO 
fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down into that lowest part of the bilge 
between the floor timbers, to further support the block under the mast step.

 

My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the top of 
the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby contribute 
to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the fiberglass keel 
stub i.e. the "C smile".  Do you think this is a legitimate concern?  Any 
thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor timbers or distribute the mast 
load to the hull?

 

Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge pump 
float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher.  Both the automatic and manual 
bilge pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the bilge, but 
the manual pump must be more effective at removing that water because of the 
float switch location.

 

Thanks in advance for any comments.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 

Re: Stus-List Routing of mast cabling from the mast to the inside of the boat

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Chris,

 

Hey neighbor!  I’m right down the road in Hayes.  

 

My cables exit the mast near the coach roof and are hidden by a removable
panel.  It wouldn’t be hard to cover your cables with some covers of some
sort.  

 

I launch on Wednesday at York River Yacht Haven.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JCRaha
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 20:04
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JCRaha 
Subject: Stus-List Routing of mast cabling from the mast to the inside of
the boat

 

We are getting ready to do some major mast maintenance on CIRCE our Red Wing
35/ C 35 MKI.

 

The question that I have for the List is how are your electrical cables
routed from your mast to the interior of the boat?

 

On CIRCE we have 6 electrical/instrumentation cables routed through 6
separate holes each of approximately 3/8” diameter at approximately 5 ½ feet
above the cabin floor on the side of the mast. 

 

Looking to improve how the cables leave the mast…Suggestions?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris Raha

‘CIRCE’

Gloucester, Virginia

jcr...@cox.net  

 

 


 
 

Virus-free.
 www.avast.com 

 

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Routing of mast cabling from the mast to the inside of the boat

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Chris,

All Touche's wiring and cables exit the mast at the base under the bilge
plate and the small plate forward of the mast.  They are combo
steaming/foredeck light, anchor light, Windex light, RG8 VHF coax and wind
instrument.  They run into the forward dinette storage and then aft to the
navigation.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Apr 11, 2016 7:02 PM, "JCRaha via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> We are getting ready to do some major mast maintenance on CIRCE our Red
> Wing 35/ C 35 MKI.
>
>
>
> The question that I have for the List is how are your electrical cables
> routed from your mast to the interior of the boat?
>
>
>
> On CIRCE we have 6 electrical/instrumentation cables routed through 6
> separate holes each of approximately 3/8” diameter at approximately 5 ½
> feet above the cabin floor on the side of the mast.
>
>
>
> Looking to improve how the cables leave the mast…Suggestions?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Chris Raha
>
> ‘CIRCE’
>
> Gloucester, Virginia
>
> jcr...@cox.net
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Randy:

We were delivering the boat back to New Orleans after purchase. I knew of
the potential flaw but the surveyor was not able to see the support
structure. Had boat itch to replace my C 27 lost in Katrina. I took a
chance.

Close hauled with main and a 110 in 15 kts wind, 30 minutes into the sail I
sensed something slipped. Under sail, the pressure on the windward shrouds
seemed normal. Sent my son below to check and the report was not good. The
mast step collapsed. We killed the sails and headed up Mobile Bay under
power. The rig was now loosely goosey as we rolled in the following sea. We
tried to stabilize it by squeezing the shrouds together with line. A
worrisome 4 hr motor up the bay to the marina complex at Dog River not
knowing how or if the butt of the mast was working against the hull. The
wood plate under the step fractured as  well as some of the transverse
members.

If you do the repairs yourself, be sure to use pvc pipe to leave access to
the forward keel bolt if you fill in the gaps between the stringers.

Ed
Briar Patch, C 34
New Orleans, La



On Monday, April 11, 2016,  wrote:

> Thanks Ed.  The story at
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm is
> informative.  Someone who owned the boat before me had already cut a
> rectangular hole in the cabin sole next to forward port dinette bench, and
> fashioned a thick wood block to fill the hole and span the two cross
> supports.  They just didn't go so far as to rebuild the cross supports.
> The above story looks like a reasonable way to do it.
>
> So when your step failed, what happened?  Did those timbers, and the floor
> pan, just break, causing your mast to drop 6-9"?
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Edward Levert via CnC-List"  >
> *To: *"cnc-list"  >
> *Cc: *"Edward Levert"  >
> *Sent: *Monday, April 11, 2016 1:57:05 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step
>
> Randy:
>
> Check the "Do it yourself" section of the Photo Album for a description
> and a photograph of the repair. My C 30 Mk 1, Hull 19(?) had the step
> fail on the 1st sail. I was in Mobile Bay at the time of failure and had
> the step rebuilt by a professional who was the Boatwright for the US
> Olympic teams in China and England. The rebuilt the step is similar to the
> description in the Photo Album, differing by filling in the gaps between
> the cross supports with epoxy/filler. Total cost in 2006 was about $1200
> plus the cost of mast unstopping/ stepping. The repair required cutting out
> part of the cabin floor pan to allow access to glass in the new supports.
>
> Ed
> Briar Patch, C 34
> New Orleans, La.
>
> On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Listers-
>>
>> Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast
>> step to inspect beneath.  The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily
>> sealed wood block ~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short
>> timbers running athwartship which I'm sure are intended to take the load of
>> the mast and transfer it to the hull.  Those two timbers have been wet and
>> appear to be a rot risk.  The PO fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down
>> into that lowest part of the bilge between the floor timbers, to further
>> support the block under the mast step.
>>
>> My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the
>> top of the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby
>> contribute to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the
>> fiberglass keel stub i.e. the "C smile".  Do you think this is a
>> legitimate concern?  Any thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor
>> timbers or distribute the mast load to the hull?
>>
>> Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge
>> pump float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher.  Both the automatic and
>> manual bilge pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the
>> bilge, but the manual pump must be more effective at removing that water
>> because of the float switch location.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any comments.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30-1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our 

Re: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Very cool, nice treat, especially close to home.  Thanks for sharing.

 

Brad Crawford

Dora Pearl

81’ C 36

Elliott Bay

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 11:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

 

Yesterday we sailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground in Eagle 
Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I got careless), and dinner at the 
Harbor Island Pub we headed back into Puget Sound and were treated to this pod 
of Orca Whales. They came and checked us out and we sailed with them off our 
port beam for about 40 minutes. A number of times they swam directly under the 
boat, sometimes in pairs, on their backs. We saw at least one baby orca, and 
one patriarch with a dorsal fin at least 4ft tall. It was amazing. I’m still 
high from it. I’d never seen Orcas before in all my sailing on the Sound, and 
now we were face to face with them. Thought you guys might like to see!

 

https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk

 

My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do anything but 
squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broad reach in light airs and 
perfectly flat sea on our way past West Point towards the locks. Also, a little 
bonus - effectively zero wait time in the locks or at the bridges on our way to 
and from Lake Union!

 

Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of us in the 
southern hemisphere)! 

 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

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Stus-List Routing of mast cabling from the mast to the inside of the boat

[JCRaha via CnC-List]

We are getting ready to do some major mast maintenance on CIRCE our Red Wing
35/ C 35 MKI.



The question that I have for the List is how are your electrical cables
routed from your mast to the interior of the boat?



On CIRCE we have 6 electrical/instrumentation cables routed through 6
separate holes each of approximately 3/8” diameter at approximately 5 ½ feet
above the cabin floor on the side of the mast.



Looking to improve how the cables leave the mast…Suggestions?



Thanks,



Chris Raha

‘CIRCE’

Gloucester, Virginia

jcr...@cox.net





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Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Forgot to include the list in the ‘to’

From: Peter Fell 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 4:43 PM
To: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

That was about 4 years ago and I don’t recall all the fine details of all the 
discussions I had on the subject. There’s probably some stuff in the archives 
on it. If I recall correctly the gap was large on the port side and pretty-much 
non-existent on the starboard side and the mast step (or the pan) was canted 
off-level. The survey we had done suggested that the rig be de-tensioned to see 
if the bulkhead came back down. But the surveyor I must admit seemed somewhat 
baffled by it all.

In the end we didn’t de-tension the rig as things started to degrade once the 
owner, through the broker, had me talk to a ‘C expert’ who swore up and down 
that C NEVER used untreated / unsealed plywood in the mast steps of 30-1’s. I 
think the were multiple things happening here  as I said, a mast step well 
on its way to collapsing, cabin sole pan in that area warping, rig tension and 
I also suspect that the mast brackets and/or the mast through-holes they were 
attached to were stretched-out, causing the cabin-top to pull-up under halyard 
tension at the turning blocks.

There were some other less-than-forthcoming responses from the owner and in the 
end we decided to walk on the deal.

So I’m assuming here you still have a gap with the mast out of the boat and I’m 
also assuming the boat is on the hard at this time and that bulkhead is being 
used for the support pads? Given there is a gap there, things have moved. Might 
be hard to line everything back up unless the boat was in the water but I would 
also think there’d be some ‘memory’ involved there as well. But I would suspect 
a 1/2-inch gap is probably in the ‘monitor it’ range.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

From: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 2:57 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

Thanks Peter.  Does a gap between the bulkhead and cabin sole pan necessarily 
represent a problem?  On my boat there's a gap of < 1/2" on each side.  There's 
also some creaking noise from the sole pan in the head / V-berth area when I 
walk on it which makes me think the fiberglass of the sole pan has broken down 
some.  But according to Don Casey's inspection procedures and advice (plus a 
professional survey), the hull is in good shape, and the boat is 44 years old...


Thanks,
Randy




From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Peter Fell" 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 12:44:27 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step


Check the whole area of the bulkhead. We had a 30-1 surveyed that turned out to 
have a sinking mast step and also potentially other issues so that the bulkhead 
had pulled up out of the cabin sole pan (or the pan had dropped / distorted) by 
about 1-inch on the port side and to a lesser extend on the starboard. Probably 
a combination of mast step, mast brackets, shroud tension (and possibly a 
couple long-distance overland moves that the boat had undertaken). 
The yard quoted well over $7000 to fix. 
There is some info / pics of solutions applied to the mast step on the 
cncphotoalbum site under do-it-yourself  for a much more cost-effective fix.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Peter. Does a gap between the bulkhead and cabin sole pan necessarily 
represent a problem? On my boat there's a gap of < 1/2" on each side. There's 
also some creaking noise from the sole pan in the head / V-berth area when I 
walk on it which makes me think the fiberglass of the sole pan has broken down 
some. But according to Don Casey's inspection procedures and advice (plus a 
professional survey), the hull is in good shape, and the boat is 44 years 
old... 

Thanks, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Peter Fell"  
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 12:44:27 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 

Check the whole area of the bulkhead. We had a 30-1 surveyed that turned out to 
have a sinking mast step and also potentially other issues so that the bulkhead 
had pulled up out of the cabin sole pan (or the pan had dropped / distorted) by 
about 1-inch on the port side and to a lesser extend on the starboard. Probably 
a combination of mast step, mast brackets, shroud tension (and possibly a 
couple long-distance overland moves that the boat had undertaken). 
The yard quoted well over $7000 to fix. 
There is some info / pics of solutions applied to the mast step on the 
cncphotoalbum site under do-it-yourself  for a much more cost-effective 
fix. 
Peter Fell 
Sidney, BC 
Cygnet 
C 27 MkIII 

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Re: Stus-List Gate Valves

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe, that's good news on both counts. On my boat the PO re-bedded all 
valved through hulls four years ago, but left the gate valves on the cockpit 
drains. The through hull for the vanity sink drain / head water intake, and the 
through hull for the engine cooling water intake, already have seacocks on my 
boat. I'll put replacing those gate valves on my project list. :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Joe at Zialater via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Joe at Zialater"  
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 1:51:02 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gate Valves 

Hi Randy, 

I replaced the old gate valves on my 30-1 this winter. While trying to 
unscrew them, I ended up spinning the actual thru-hull so I replaced those 
as well. I had a devil of a time finding the replacements since on my boat 
#305, they were flush to the hull. I found some flush thru hulls that had a 
slightly smaller flange diameter than the originals and just filled in the 
extra space with some epoxy filler. Both gate valves in the cockpit were 
failing as well as the one in the head. I wasn't as big a job as I had 
feared and it sure feels good to have them up to snuff now. 

BTW, I also did the mast foot repair a few years ago. The worst part of 
that was taking out the mast - but the repair was easy and relatively cheap 
and should last another 40 years. 

Cheers, 

Joe Boyle 
Zia 
** 



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Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Ed. The story at 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm is informative. 
Someone who owned the boat before me had already cut a rectangular hole in the 
cabin sole next to forward port dinette bench, and fashioned a thick wood block 
to fill the hole and span the two cross supports. They just didn't go so far as 
to rebuild the cross supports. The above story looks like a reasonable way to 
do it. 

So when your step failed, what happened? Did those timbers, and the floor pan, 
just break, causing your mast to drop 6-9"? 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Edward Levert via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Edward Levert"  
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 1:57:05 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 

Randy: 

Check the "Do it yourself" section of the Photo Album for a description and a 
photograph of the repair. My C 30 Mk 1, Hull 19(?) had the step fail on the 
1st sail. I was in Mobile Bay at the time of failure and had the step rebuilt 
by a professional who was the Boatwright for the US Olympic teams in China and 
England. The rebuilt the step is similar to the description in the Photo Album, 
differing by filling in the gaps between the cross supports with epoxy/filler. 
Total cost in 2006 was about $1200 plus the cost of mast unstopping/ stepping. 
The repair required cutting out part of the cabin floor pan to allow access to 
glass in the new supports. 

Ed 
Briar Patch, C 34 
New Orleans, La. 

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Listers- 

Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast step to 
inspect beneath. The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily sealed wood block 
~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short timbers running athwartship 
which I'm sure are intended to take the load of the mast and transfer it to the 
hull. Those two timbers have been wet and appear to be a rot risk. The PO 
fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down into that lowest part of the bilge 
between the floor timbers, to further support the block under the mast step. 

My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the top of 
the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby contribute 
to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the fiberglass keel 
stub i.e. the "C smile". Do you think this is a legitimate concern? Any 
thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor timbers or distribute the mast 
load to the hull? 

Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge pump 
float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher. Both the automatic and manual bilge 
pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the bilge, but the 
manual pump must be more effective at removing that water because of the float 
switch location. 

Thanks in advance for any comments. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

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Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.  Based on your knowledge I am now pretty certain that the existing 
bolts are hanger bolts bedded into fiberglass/plywood.  I will shop around here 
for SS versions of those and/or lag bolts.  Thanks Ed for the heads up on the 
seat lifting/opening.  I will make sure to check that before drilling.

My boat is 2.5 hrs drive from home and is in the middle of nowhere so if I get 
to it without the right hardware,  I am hooped.

Really helps having others provide advice so I can go back out with the right 
gear in my bag!



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Edward Levert via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 1:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

Bruce:

I recently replaced the original head on my 1981 C 34. The original "bolts" 
were not bolts at all but were what I think are called hanger bolts - part 
screw and part bolt. The screw part was into the pan on which the head sits. 
The head was held down by cap nuts. Remove the head and back out the hanger 
bolts. I carefully measured for the base of the new head, drilled, and used SS 
lag bolts. The new head mounts firmly.

I did run into a placement problem. A wall of the head compartment was angled 
thus reducing the space directly behind the head. I had the new head bolted 
down and plumbed. When I put the toilet seat on, the angled wall prevented the 
seat from lifting/opening fully. Solved the problem by reversing the side of 
the pump relative to the bowl but had to re-drill for the lag bolts. Good luck.

Ed
Briar Patch C 34
New Orleans, La.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hello.


I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new Jabsco.  
  The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan that the head 
sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does not match these.  
There is no access to the underside of the pan.  Any ideas I've come up with 
for creating new mounts depend on knowing the thickness of the pan.

Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?

Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?

I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the pan is 
hollow - thinking this would be easiest.

I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with resin/adhesive) 
in new holes if the pan is solid.



Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC



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Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Randy:

Check the "Do it yourself" section of the Photo Album for a description and
a photograph of the repair. My C 30 Mk 1, Hull 19(?) had the step fail on
the 1st sail. I was in Mobile Bay at the time of failure and had the step
rebuilt by a professional who was the Boatwright for the US Olympic teams
in China and England. The rebuilt the step is similar to the description in
the Photo Album, differing by filling in the gaps between the cross
supports with epoxy/filler. Total cost in 2006 was about $1200 plus the
cost of mast unstopping/ stepping. The repair required cutting out part of
the cabin floor pan to allow access to glass in the new supports.

Ed
Briar Patch, C 34
New Orleans, La.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers-
>
> Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast step
> to inspect beneath.  The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily sealed
> wood block ~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short timbers
> running athwartship which I'm sure are intended to take the load of the
> mast and transfer it to the hull.  Those two timbers have been wet and
> appear to be a rot risk.  The PO fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down
> into that lowest part of the bilge between the floor timbers, to further
> support the block under the mast step.
>
> My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the top
> of the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby
> contribute to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the
> fiberglass keel stub i.e. the "C smile".  Do you think this is a
> legitimate concern?  Any thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor
> timbers or distribute the mast load to the hull?
>
> Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge
> pump float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher.  Both the automatic and
> manual bilge pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the
> bilge, but the manual pump must be more effective at removing that water
> because of the float switch location.
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List for Bev Parslow and Jib Sheet Question

[Stu via CnC-List]

Hayard & sheet lengths:

http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGV5ZQDmZmDjZQLzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Way2LKu2pG05ZGZjZGDjBGt2Bj

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Re: Stus-List Gate Valves

[Joe at Zialater via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

I replaced the old gate valves on my 30-1 this winter.  While trying to
unscrew them, I ended up spinning the actual thru-hull so I replaced those
as well.  I had a devil of a time finding the replacements since on my boat
#305, they were flush to the hull.  I found some flush thru hulls that had a
slightly smaller flange diameter than the originals and just filled in the
extra space with some epoxy filler.  Both gate valves in the cockpit were
failing as well as the one in the head.  I wasn't as big a job as I had
feared and it sure feels good to have them up to snuff now.

BTW, I also did the mast foot repair a few years ago.  The worst part of
that was taking out the mast - but the repair was easy and relatively cheap
and should last another 40 years.

Cheers,

Joe Boyle
Zia
**



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Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter tip

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

David,

That's the factory supplied mount for the Standard Horizon CP190i GPS.
It's a two axis mount, rotating on the base and tilting at the head.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 2:32 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis- My GPS is already on a platform which is why I am looking for a
> swivel base.  What kind of swivel base is that?  Does it tilt as well as
> swivel?  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Apr 11, 2016, at 10:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I built a small platform using an Edson bracket.  My GPS came with a
> swivel mount.  It can be seen here:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsRjJHbmFuQ3dieGc
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 8:34 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Another option is to build a shelf:
>>
>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/plotter_mount_edson
>>
>> You could put a small swivel mount on the shelf.
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi David,
>>> Nice swivel pod.
>>> Just had a thought.  You may want to develope a habit of turning the pod
>>> so the screen has to go to port, whenever changing aim from front to back
>>> or back to front.  That way, the wires won't get twisted.
>>>
>>>
>>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter tip

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

That looks nice and the price is right, but this is the one I am going to look 
at when I get to Defender:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028704%7C2028919=2418297
It can be tilted anywhere (as opposed to 20 or 40° on the Navpod) and 360 
swivel so I think that sitting or standing, rail or helm, one should be able to 
adjust it for a clear view.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 11, 2016, at 11:04 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was just screwing off and came across this Pro Pod for $90 
> 
>  
> I have no affiliation with boatersland.  They do have some great pricing 
> though!!
>  
> Seems like great price is the opening will work...
>  
> Danny
>  
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: "Dennis C." 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter tip
> Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 09:56:31 -0500
> 
> 
> I built a small platform using an Edson bracket.  My GPS came with a swivel 
> mount.  It can be seen here:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsRjJHbmFuQ3dieGc 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 8:34 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Another option is to build a shelf:
>  
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/plotter_mount_edson 
> 
>  
> You could put a small swivel mount on the shelf.
> 
> On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Hi David,
> Nice swivel pod. 
> Just had a thought.  You may want to develope a habit of turning the pod so 
> the screen has to go to port, whenever changing aim from front to back or 
> back to front.  That way, the wires won't get twisted.
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List head hoses

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

For all the information on head maintenance and hose replacement look up the 
Sailboats Owners forum and look for Peggy Hall’s special forum. If you can’t 
find the information there, it does not exist (or you don’t need it). 
Alternatively buy her book. I bet it is worth every penny.

Marek

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 13:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List head hoses

I'm just in the process of replacing all the hoses for the head and fuel fill 
due to permeation.

I've got some of that old boat smell happening and I'm attacking whatever might 
be involved.  

I used the Trident 101 & 102 hose (only difference is one is white and one is 
black).  It is pretty stiff and a little hard to deal with but, from what I've 
read, it's the best at fighting permeation.

I managed to get all the old hoses removed and all the new 1-1/2 inch stuff re 
piped this weekend. I also added some PVC pipe to raise the pump out hose 
connection above the tank.  It was an exercise in contortion-ism and patients 
but, at least the hard part is done.  I did use a heat gun and dish soap the 
help get the hose on the barbs.  You could also use some boiled water as 
someone here suggested to me.  I just happened to have a heat gun so I tried 
that first and it worked well.

Now, I just have to add the vent outlets to the tank and the vent lines to the 
2 new thru-hull vent fittings! 

Sanitation Hose is not cheap.  If it is, it probably doesn't control odor very 
well. 

Google PegHall and sanitation hose.  She has the nickname of the Headmistress.  
She is the leading authority on all thing marine head related and has posted 
all over many boating forums on marine sanitation issues.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List head hoses
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 12:56:20 -0400


Raritan makes the most flexible sanitary hose I have seen.   

Joel


On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:53 PM, David Platt via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  The stuff you took out is probably exhaust hose.  C seemed to use it 
everywhere back in the day.  You local marine supply store can sell you an 
appropriate sanitary hose that will be mush easier to work with and that will 
be impermeable to odours - assuming you tighten the clamps properly.  Borrow a 
heat gun to make the stuff more pliable when required.

  Cheers

  david
  C 32 Wanderer
  Bonte ON 



  On 2016-04-11 12:47 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
Recently I had to remove the discharge hose from the head to clear it out.  
It had developed a crystalline growth that had clogged up with other stuff.   
After I literally beat the crap out of it to clear it, I was unable to get it 
back up behind the toilet as it was to stiff and difficult to work back in 
place with the anti syphon valve. Disassembling it from the valve was not 
workable, as I could not reach it to reassemble.

I am looking for advise on another hose that is more plyable than the 
rubber and coiled wire hose that I took out.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Bruce:

I recently replaced the original head on my 1981 C 34. The original
"bolts" were not bolts at all but were what I think are called hanger bolts
- part screw and part bolt. The screw part was into the pan on which the
head sits. The head was held down by cap nuts. Remove the head and back out
the hanger bolts. I carefully measured for the base of the new head,
drilled, and used SS lag bolts. The new head mounts firmly.

I did run into a placement problem. A wall of the head compartment was
angled thus reducing the space directly behind the head. I had the new head
bolted down and plumbed. When I put the toilet seat on, the angled wall
prevented the seat from lifting/opening fully. Solved the problem by
reversing the side of the pump relative to the bowl but had to re-drill for
the lag bolts. Good luck.

Ed
Briar Patch C 34
New Orleans, La.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello.
>
>
> I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new
> Jabsco.The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan
> that the head sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does
> not match these.  There is no access to the underside of the pan.
> Any ideas I've come up with for creating new mounts depend on knowing the
> thickness of the pan.
>
> Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?
>
> Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?
>
> I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the pan
> is hollow - thinking this would be easiest.
>
> I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with
> resin/adhesive) in new holes if the pan is solid.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>
> '86 C 29 MK II
>
> Kootenay Lake, BC
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter tip

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis- My GPS is already on a platform which is why I am looking for a 
swivel base.  What kind of swivel base is that?  Does it tilt as well as 
swivel?  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 11, 2016, at 10:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I built a small platform using an Edson bracket.  My GPS came with a swivel 
> mount.  It can be seen here:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsRjJHbmFuQ3dieGc 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 8:34 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Another option is to build a shelf:
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/plotter_mount_edson 
> 
> 
> You could put a small swivel mount on the shelf.
> 
> On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Hi David,
> Nice swivel pod. 
> Just had a thought.  You may want to develope a habit of turning the pod so 
> the screen has to go to port, whenever changing aim from front to back or 
> back to front.  That way, the wires won't get twisted.
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

https://www.boltdepot.com/Hanger_bolts.aspx?nv=l

Joel

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 3:15 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Stainless lag bolts work on most of our old C's.  I'm guessing there's a
> piece of plywood under there.
>
> If not, you can use a stainless toggle bolt.
>
> http://www.garelick.com/Toggler-Brand-Stainless-Steel-Toggle-Bolt-Anchors
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello.
>>
>>
>> I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new
>> Jabsco.The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan
>> that the head sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does
>> not match these.  There is no access to the underside of the pan.
>> Any ideas I've come up with for creating new mounts depend on knowing the
>> thickness of the pan.
>>
>> Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?
>>
>> Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?
>>
>> I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the
>> pan is hollow - thinking this would be easiest.
>>
>> I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with
>> resin/adhesive) in new holes if the pan is solid.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>>
>> '86 C 29 MK II
>>
>> Kootenay Lake, BC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Stainless lag bolts work on most of our old C's.  I'm guessing there's a
piece of plywood under there.

If not, you can use a stainless toggle bolt.

http://www.garelick.com/Toggler-Brand-Stainless-Steel-Toggle-Bolt-Anchors

Dennis C.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello.
>
>
> I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new
> Jabsco.The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan
> that the head sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does
> not match these.  There is no access to the underside of the pan.
> Any ideas I've come up with for creating new mounts depend on knowing the
> thickness of the pan.
>
> Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?
>
> Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?
>
> I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the pan
> is hollow - thinking this would be easiest.
>
> I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with
> resin/adhesive) in new holes if the pan is solid.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>
> '86 C 29 MK II
>
> Kootenay Lake, BC
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Western Lake Superior CnC Rendezvous

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

 perhaps next summer for a round Superior trip from Huron North Channel!

Don
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca

> On Apr 11, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Count me in.   I'd love to meet you guys in Bayfield for a beer or two. 
> 
> Tom Lynch
> Escape (to be renamed) C 33II
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Apr 7, 2016 at 10:56 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Don’t forget Nate Flesness.  Any others out there?
>> 
>> As far as the recent weather goes… G!
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Apr 7, 2016, at 8:37 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ok, I’ll jump on the band wagon…
>>>  
>>> Fred/Neil – want to meet at the Bayfield Creamery for a Western Lake 
>>> Superior rendezvous?  I’ll buy the first round.   FYI - I hear 3-5” came 
>>> down yesterday and a couple more due tomorrow.   
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Check the whole area of the bulkhead. We had a 30-1 surveyed that turned out to 
have a sinking mast step and also potentially other issues so that the bulkhead 
had pulled up out of the cabin sole pan (or the pan had dropped / distorted) by 
about 1-inch on the port side and to a lesser extend on the starboard. Probably 
a combination of mast step, mast brackets, shroud tension (and possibly a 
couple long-distance overland moves that the boat had undertaken). 
The yard quoted well over $7000 to fix. 
There is some info / pics of solutions applied to the mast step on the 
cncphotoalbum site under do-it-yourself  for a much more cost-effective fix.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII___

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Re: Stus-List Gate Valves

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

I bit the bullet and replaced all my through hulls and replaced the gate
valves with proper seacocks.  The forty year old (at the time) plumbing
just didn't inspire confidence.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971, 30-1
Tolchester, MD
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Re: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[svpegasus38]

body{font-family:Helvetica,Arial;font-size:13px}

Very cool. Knew I should have gone sailing yesterday instead of going to 
work. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Andrew Means via CnC-List Date: Mon, Apr 11, 
2016 11:05To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Andrew Means;Subject:Stus-List Orcas on 
Puget Sound
Yesterday we sailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground in Eagle 
Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I got careless), and dinner at the 
Harbor Island Pub we headed back into Puget Sound and were treated to this pod 
of Orca Whales. They came and checked us out and we sailed with them off our 
port beam for about 40 minutes. A number of times they swam directly under the 
boat, sometimes in pairs, on their backs. We saw at least one baby orca, and 
one patriarch with a dorsal fin at least 4ft tall. It was amazing. I’m still 
high from it. I’d never seen Orcas before in all my sailing on the Sound, and 
now we were face to face with them. Thought you guys might like to see!
https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk 
My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do anything but 
squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broad reach in light airs and 
perfectly flat sea on our way past West Point towards the locks. Also, a little 
bonus - effectively zero wait time in the locks or at the bridges on our way to 
and from Lake Union!
Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of us in the 
southern hemisphere)! 
 -- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk ISeattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List Head Hoses

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

Fred: 

I used sanitation hose from Premier Rubber on Vancouver Way for a long run 
(holding tank to deck pump-out). Very expensive, but might be too stiff for 
you. The rest of my sanitation hoses are from West Marine. White, 1 1/2" 
sanitation hose. Still pretty stiff, but softens up a bit if soaked in boiling 
water for a while, or heated with a heat gun. Be careful with the heat gun, as 
the hose can get too soft. I recently redid my plumbing. Let me know if you 
want to take a look at what I did. 

Alan Bergen 
C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Yesterday we sailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground in Eagle 
Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I got careless), and dinner at the 
Harbor Island Pub we headed back into Puget Sound and were treated to this pod 
of Orca Whales. They came and checked us out and we sailed with them off our 
port beam for about 40 minutes. A number of times they swam directly under the 
boat, sometimes in pairs, on their backs. We saw at least one baby orca, and 
one patriarch with a dorsal fin at least 4ft tall. It was amazing. I’m still 
high from it. I’d never seen Orcas before in all my sailing on the Sound, and 
now we were face to face with them. Thought you guys might like to see!

https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk

My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do anything but 
squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broad reach in light airs and 
perfectly flat sea on our way past West Point towards the locks. Also, a little 
bonus - effectively zero wait time in the locks or at the bridges on our way to 
and from Lake Union!

Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of us in the 
southern hemisphere)! 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Hello.


I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new Jabsco.  
  The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan that the head 
sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does not match these.  
There is no access to the underside of the pan.  Any ideas I've come up with 
for creating new mounts depend on knowing the thickness of the pan.

Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?

Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?

I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the pan is 
hollow - thinking this would be easiest.

I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with resin/adhesive) 
in new holes if the pan is solid.



Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC


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Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Randy, you have stumbled onto the major flaw in the construction on the 30-1. 
There have been many discussions on this site about the mast step. Some owners 
have filled this low part of the sump with fiberglass, others (me and….) have 
strengthened or replaced those cross supports. The big flaw is when they built 
the boat, they did not seal the bottom of those supports, so they have been 
sucking up any bilge water which gets that high (easy) and rotting. The other 
issue, as you have found, is the location of the bilge pump down in the low 
part of the sump. A decent sized one won’t fit. One with a remote switch won’t 
fit. 

 

So, the first issue is to find a pump which will go down that low. I am using a 
small Rule pump, directly wired to a switch on the DC panel. That way, I can 
get almost all the water out. Fortunately I live close to the boat, so can go 
down there and pump after each rain.

 

I drilled a bunch of holes in the cross members and filled them with G-Flex, 
and then built the tops up to make them all level. Others have cut them out and 
replaced them with new and/or fiberglass ones. If you leave them as is, you 
will eventually have a sinking mast – mine was down about half an inch.

 

Another way to keep that area dry is to get a pump with an inlet hose and which 
is self-priming. 

 

Contact me offline for more discussion, but look through the archives, there 
have been many discussions.

 

Gary

30-1 #593

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 1:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

 

Listers-

 

Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast step to 
inspect beneath.  The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily sealed wood block 
~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short timbers running athwartship 
which I'm sure are intended to take the load of the mast and transfer it to the 
hull.  Those two timbers have been wet and appear to be a rot risk.  The PO 
fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down into that lowest part of the bilge 
between the floor timbers, to further support the block under the mast step.

 

My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the top of 
the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby contribute 
to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the fiberglass keel 
stub i.e. the "C smile".  Do you think this is a legitimate concern?  Any 
thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor timbers or distribute the mast 
load to the hull?

 

Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge pump 
float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher.  Both the automatic and manual 
bilge pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the bilge, but 
the manual pump must be more effective at removing that water because of the 
float switch location.

 

Thanks in advance for any comments.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

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Re: Stus-List head hoses

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Really good advice guys. Thanks

Fred
On Apr 11, 2016 10:32 AM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
wrote:

> Being a live-aboard I battle this all the time. When tied to the dock I
> flush with fresh water and salt water when out cruising. And every couple
> of months I poor vinegar in the head flush into hose and let sit over night
> or longer if possible. Doesn't stop the build up, but sufficiently slows it
> down.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Mon, Apr 11, 2016 09:59
>
> *To: *'cnc-list@cnc-list.com';
>
> *Cc: *Della Barba, Joe;
>
> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List head hoses
>
>
> To avoid this in the future, flush a head full of vinegar through every
> couple of months ;)
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Fred
> Hazzard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, April 11, 2016 12:47
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <+cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard
> *Subject:* Stus-List head hoses
>
>
>
> Recently I had to remove the discharge hose from the head to clear it
> out.  It had developed a crystalline growth that had clogged up with other
> stuff.   After I literally beat the crap out of it to clear it, I was
> unable to get it back up behind the toilet as it was to stiff and difficult
> to work back in place with the anti syphon valve. Disassembling it from the
> valve was not workable, as I could not reach it to reassemble.
>
>
>
> I am looking for advise on another hose that is more plyable than the
> rubber and coiled wire hose that I took out.
>
>
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> S/V Fury
>
> C 44
>
> Portland, Or
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List head hoses

[svpegasus38]

Being a live-aboard I battle this all the time. When tied to the dock I 
flush with fresh water and salt water when out cruising. And every couple of 
months I poor vinegar in the head flush into hose and let sit over night or 
longer if possible. Doesn't stop the build up, but sufficiently slows it down. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-ListDate: Mon, Apr 
11, 2016 09:59To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com';Cc: Della Barba, Joe;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List head hoses
To avoid this in the future, flush a head full of vinegar through every couple 
of months ;)JoeCoquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On 
Behalf Of Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 12:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List head hoses Recently I had to remove the discharge hose from 
the head to clear it out.  It had developed a crystalline growth that had 
clogged up with other stuff.   After I literally beat the crap out of it to 
clear it, I was unable to get it back up behind the toilet as it was to stiff 
and difficult to work back in place with the anti syphon valve. Disassembling 
it from the valve was not workable, as I could not reach it to reassemble. I am 
looking for advise on another hose that is more plyable than the rubber and 
coiled wire hose that I took out. Fred HazzardS/V FuryC 44Portland, Or

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Re: Stus-List Gate Valves

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Gate Valves are no longer approved by ABYC.



Bill Bina

On 4/11/2016 12:51 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Listers-

My 30-1 has gate valves at the cockpit drain through-hulls.  Don Casey 
writes that gate valves are inherently unsafe and must not be 
substituted for seacocks.  Any opinions on this issue?


While I'm at it, Casey also writes that plastic (Marelon) 
through-hulls should not be mixed with bronze nuts and seacocks, which 
my boat does.  He writes only plastic nuts and seacocks should be used 
with plastic through-hulls.  Thoughts on that one?


Thanks,
Randy Stafford


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Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers- 

Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast step to 
inspect beneath. The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily sealed wood block 
~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short timbers running athwartship 
which I'm sure are intended to take the load of the mast and transfer it to the 
hull. Those two timbers have been wet and appear to be a rot risk. The PO 
fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down into that lowest part of the bilge 
between the floor timbers, to further support the block under the mast step. 

My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the top of 
the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby contribute 
to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the fiberglass keel 
stub i.e. the "C smile". Do you think this is a legitimate concern? Any 
thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor timbers or distribute the mast 
load to the hull? 

Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge pump 
float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher. Both the automatic and manual bilge 
pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the bilge, but the 
manual pump must be more effective at removing that water because of the float 
switch location. 

Thanks in advance for any comments. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 
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Re: Stus-List Gate Valves

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Gate valves should not be used ( despite their use by Benne, Jennaeu and
others).  Thread types should not be mixed.

Joel
35/3 Hylas 44
Annapolis

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:59 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As I recall, the reason they shouldn't be mixed is that Marelon fittings
> have straight (non-tapered threads) while most bronze fittings have tapered
> threads.  If these are mixed the softest material of the two will have
> deformed threads.  I have been careful not to mix them for this reason.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
> On Apr 11, 2016, at 12:51 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers-
>
> My 30-1 has gate valves at the cockpit drain through-hulls.  Don Casey
> writes that gate valves are inherently unsafe and must not be substituted
> for seacocks.  Any opinions on this issue?
>
> While I'm at it, Casey also writes that plastic (Marelon) through-hulls
> should not be mixed with bronze nuts and seacocks, which my boat does.  He
> writes only plastic nuts and seacocks should be used with plastic
> through-hulls.  Thoughts on that one?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Gate Valves

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I had a gate valve failure on my previous boat.  The shaft corroded in the
gate.  The handle and shaft spun freely but the gate did not move.  I had
no way to know if the gate was open or closed.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 11:51 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers-
>
> My 30-1 has gate valves at the cockpit drain through-hulls.  Don Casey
> writes that gate valves are inherently unsafe and must not be substituted
> for seacocks.  Any opinions on this issue?
>
> While I'm at it, Casey also writes that plastic (Marelon) through-hulls
> should not be mixed with bronze nuts and seacocks, which my boat does.  He
> writes only plastic nuts and seacocks should be used with plastic
> through-hulls.  Thoughts on that one?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Gate Valves

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

As I recall, the reason they shouldn't be mixed is that Marelon fittings have 
straight (non-tapered threads) while most bronze fittings have tapered threads. 
 If these are mixed the softest material of the two will have deformed threads. 
 I have been careful not to mix them for this reason.  

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 11, 2016, at 12:51 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> My 30-1 has gate valves at the cockpit drain through-hulls.  Don Casey writes 
> that gate valves are inherently unsafe and must not be substituted for 
> seacocks.  Any opinions on this issue?
> 
> While I'm at it, Casey also writes that plastic (Marelon) through-hulls 
> should not be mixed with bronze nuts and seacocks, which my boat does.  He 
> writes only plastic nuts and seacocks should be used with plastic 
> through-hulls.  Thoughts on that one?
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List head hoses

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Raritan makes the most flexible sanitary hose I have seen.

Joel


On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:53 PM, David Platt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The stuff you took out is probably exhaust hose.  C seemed to use it
> everywhere back in the day.  You local marine supply store can sell you an
> appropriate sanitary hose that will be mush easier to work with and that
> will be impermeable to odours - assuming you tighten the clamps properly.
> Borrow a heat gun to make the stuff more pliable when required.
>
> Cheers
>
> david
> C 32 Wanderer
> Bonte ON
>
>
> On 2016-04-11 12:47 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Recently I had to remove the discharge hose from the head to clear it
> out.  It had developed a crystalline growth that had clogged up with other
> stuff.   After I literally beat the crap out of it to clear it, I was
> unable to get it back up behind the toilet as it was to stiff and difficult
> to work back in place with the anti syphon valve. Disassembling it from
> the valve was not workable, as I could not reach it to reassemble.
>
> I am looking for advise on another hose that is more plyable than the
> rubber and coiled wire hose that I took out.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List head hoses

[David Platt via CnC-List]

The stuff you took out is probably exhaust hose.  C seemed to use it 
everywhere back in the day.  You local marine supply store can sell you 
an appropriate sanitary hose that will be mush easier to work with and 
that will be impermeable to odours - assuming you tighten the clamps 
properly.  Borrow a heat gun to make the stuff more pliable when required.


Cheers

david
C 32 Wanderer
Bonte ON

On 2016-04-11 12:47 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
Recently I had to remove the discharge hose from the head to clear it 
out.  It had developed a crystalline growth that had clogged up with 
other stuff.   After I literally beat the crap out of it to clear it, 
I was unable to get it back up behind the toilet as it was to stiff 
and difficult to work back in place with the anti syphon valve. 
Disassembling it from the valve was not workable, as I could not reach 
it to reassemble.


I am looking for advise on another hose that is more plyable than the 
rubber and coiled wire hose that I took out.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


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Stus-List Gate Valves

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers- 

My 30-1 has gate valves at the cockpit drain through-hulls. Don Casey writes 
that gate valves are inherently unsafe and must not be substituted for 
seacocks. Any opinions on this issue? 

While I'm at it, Casey also writes that plastic (Marelon) through-hulls should 
not be mixed with bronze nuts and seacocks, which my boat does. He writes only 
plastic nuts and seacocks should be used with plastic through-hulls. Thoughts 
on that one? 

Thanks, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 
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Re: Stus-List Western Lake Superior CnC Rendezvous

[Tom Lynch via CnC-List]

Count me in.   I'd love to meet you guys in Bayfield for a beer or two.

Tom Lynch
Escape (to be renamed) C 33II


On Thu, Apr 7, 2016 at 10:56 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don’t forget Nate Flesness.  Any others out there?
>
> As far as the recent weather goes… *G!*
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 7, 2016, at 8:37 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ok, I’ll jump on the band wagon…
>
> Fred/Neil – want to meet at the Bayfield Creamery for a Western Lake
> Superior rendezvous?  I’ll buy the first round.   FYI - I hear 3-5” came
> down yesterday and a couple more due tomorrow.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List head hoses

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Recently I had to remove the discharge hose from the head to clear it out.
It had developed a crystalline growth that had clogged up with other stuff.
  After I literally beat the crap out of it to clear it, I was unable to
get it back up behind the toilet as it was to stiff and difficult to work
back in place with the anti syphon valve. Disassembling it from the valve
was not workable, as I could not reach it to reassemble.

I am looking for advise on another hose that is more plyable than the
rubber and coiled wire hose that I took out.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter tip

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I was just screwing off and came across this Pro Pod for $90 I have no 
affiliation with boatersland.  They do have some great pricing though!! Seems 
like great price is the opening will work... Danny 

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
To: CnClist 
Cc: "Dennis C." 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter tip
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 09:56:31 -0500


I built a small platform using an Edson bracket.  My GPS came with a swivel 
mount.  It can be seen here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsRjJHbmFuQ3dieGc

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 8:34 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Another option is to build a shelf: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/plotter_mount_edson You could put a small 
swivel mount on the shelf.
On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hi David,Nice swivel pod. Just had a thought.  You may want to develope a habit 
of turning the pod so the screen has to go to port, whenever changing aim from 
front to back or back to front.  That way, the wires won't get twisted. ___

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter tip

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I built a small platform using an Edson bracket.  My GPS came with a swivel
mount.  It can be seen here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsRjJHbmFuQ3dieGc

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 8:34 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another option is to build a shelf:
>
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/plotter_mount_edson
>
> You could put a small swivel mount on the shelf.
>
> On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi David,
>> Nice swivel pod.
>> Just had a thought.  You may want to develope a habit of turning the pod
>> so the screen has to go to port, whenever changing aim from front to back
>> or back to front.  That way, the wires won't get twisted.
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Automatic Charging --> alternator field

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have a "Zap-Stopper", which is a $2 15 volt zener diode that used to sell for 
about $20 back in the day. It connects across the alternator and shorts out 
temporary transient high voltage spikes.
I think there are no longer sold because a permanent over-voltage condition 
will cause them to melt and smolder. We melted one back in the day by 
forgetting to close the circuit breaker on the alternator and the regulator was 
tying its best to get some output. The smell alerted us before the alternator 
was done in.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 09:34
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Automatic Charging --> alternator field


Hi Dave,

First a small primer on alternators. The spinning part of the alternator is 
called the field, charging power comes out of the stationary part. You apply a 
bit of power to the field, say 3 amps, and magically many times that amount 
comes out to charge batteries. Your questions involve field power.

1. - generally the key switch powers the field too, so when you inadvertently 
turn it off you simply "turn off" the alternator too. No Damage. (The exception 
is if you have a self exciting regulator which powers itself, magic again, but 
still no damage.

2. - some BATT switches had an internal switch which "break" the field power 
while switching. If the old one had this feature then the PO wired in the 
external switch instead of eliminating it. Or she knew what she was doing after 
taking a Nigel Calder course and decided to wire in a field switch which she 
would use every time she switched banks (even though she bought the "make 
before break" switch).
Long story short: verify it's in the key "on" circuit and leave it on unless 
you are switching battery banks while engine running.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:09 AM 10/04/2016, you wrote:

A followup on Josh?s post:

1. A couple of times I have accidentally turned the key switch off while the 
engine was running and my brain was elsewhere.  I immediately turned it back on 
again.  I have noticed any problems resulting from this, but I don?t know what 
the symptoms would be if I had damaged something.

2.  In addition to the rotary 1, 2, All rotary, I also have a on/off toggle 
switch next to the rotary that must be also turned on.  I don?t know what is 
wired to it, so does anyone know what is likely to be the purpose of that 
switch?  My previous boat only had the rotary.  Thanks- Dave

On Apr 6, 2016, at 3:56 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:


It is safe to switch between 1-ALL-2 as long as everything is working as 
designed.  You also have to be very careful not to accidentally overshoot to 
the off position.  What isn't safe is turning the ignition switch to off while 
the engine is running, or as mentioned turning the batt switch to off while the 
engine is running.

The only concern about mixed types of batteries is various chemistries.  A leaf 
acid starting battery and a lead acid deap cycle battery are the same chemistry 
so you're fine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List GPS

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have found that there are apps that appear to share this data according to 
users so it may be possible (Gaia GPS/Mudmap).  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 10, 2016, at 11:03 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You do not have to enable WiFi to share a personal hotspot from and iPhone; 
> you can use BT or USB instead.  I'm not sure whether it would then share 
> location information, but I'm interested to find out.
> 
> Tim
> 
> On Apr 10, 2016, at 10:21 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> 
>> If you set up a personal hotspot, you are enabling Wi-Fi, not BT. Normally, 
>> you won’t get location data, as this is not shared over Wi-Fi. Unless there 
>> is a special app that you would run on both sides.
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:05
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list > >
>> Cc: David Knecht >
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS
>>  
>> If you set up a Personal Hotspot with your iPhone and bluetooth that to your 
>> non-GPS enabled iPad, will it share location data?  It appears possible from 
>> what I have read.  Dave
>>  
>> On Apr 4, 2016, at 10:00 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Jim — you can add an external GPS receiver like the Bad Elf via Bluetooth; 
>> then you’ll have the functionality you need without having to buy a 
>> cell-enabled iPad.  I’ve got one, and it works great.
>>  
>> http://www.amazon.com/Bad-Elf-2200-Black-silver/dp/B008VWNBBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8=1459778416=8-2=bad-elf+gps
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>  
>> On Apr 4, 2016, at 8:44 AM, Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>>  
>> I should have qualified the question, we downloaded Navionics, our I pad 
>> does not have GPS, therefore, no ship icon!   Will it appear on this app, if 
>> we purchase this I pad with GPS, but without a phone plan!
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> 
>> On Apr 4, 2016, at 10:11 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> iPad with cellular, doesn't need a phone subscription for the GPS to work.
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C 32
>> Toronto
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>>  
>> Dr. David Knecht
>> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
>> Core Microscopy Facility Director
>> University of Connecticut  
>> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
>> Storrs, CT 06269
>> 860-486-2200
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

If you really need one-handed adjustment, you can put a bit less friction on 
the balls (I know that it does not read that well) – it is adjustable on the 
arm - and you could move the device around. On the other hand, you should never 
be that busy on the boat that you could not spare a moment to adjust the 
display (;-). I use much shorter arm (3”? 4”?), so it is easier to do.

Marek

From: Brad via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 22:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: lumg...@hotmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter

+1 on the Ram Mount, i bought the midsized balls and the 9 (I think) inch arm. 
Its not one handed to move and it stays pretty much where you set it. The size 
of your plotter affects the size of the mount, I have an a95 Raymarine. Its 
heavy on the end of the mount, so go big.
Brad
Pulse C 33 MkII
Lake Huron

Sent miraculously through cyberspace from my smartphone 

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Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter tip

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Another option is to build a shelf:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/plotter_mount_edson

You could put a small swivel mount on the shelf.

On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi David,
> Nice swivel pod.
> Just had a thought.  You may want to develope a habit of turning the pod
> so the screen has to go to port, whenever changing aim from front to back
> or back to front.  That way, the wires won't get twisted.
>
> Chuck
>
> --
> *From: *"David Knecht via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"CnC CnC discussion list" 
> *Cc: *"David Knecht" 
> *Sent: *Sunday, April 10, 2016 9:43:06 AM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter
>
> I am looking for a way to easily rotate my Chartplotter from side to side
> so I can see it while sitting near either rail and steering the boat.  I
> have a wooden platform that the B is currently mounted on that would
> accommodate a deck mount.  Swiveling pods seem like a good way to go, but I
> have never used one.  I like the idea of something like this:
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028704%7C2028919=1355058
>  but
> I think it is important to be able to position it with one hand.  Has
> anyone have experience with these or some other solution?  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Josh

Your idea for single line reef is pretty much the stock setup on the c 115.  
On the 115 it runs inside the boom though to a shiv on the end. I believe there 
may be some mechanical advantage inside the boom as well but of course cannot 
see.  What we have noted is that there is a lot of friction on this reef line.  
We think there may be a problem inside the boom but not sure.  We have to use a 
winch to get it reefed and that extra friction of up to the reef cringle (or 
dogbone) on luff of main adds even more friction.

On a fully crewed boat I believe the single line reef system is slower and less 
effective than the hook at boom.  If solo sailing it may be a good idea though

Thanks for the chat yesterday.  Will be back at the boat after work today.  Was 
below freezing this morning so did not go early

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rjcasciato 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 5:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rjcasciato
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

Josh:
If what you're trying to do is use one line to reef both the tack and clew of 
the Main..that's a lot of force needed for a single line.  What's 
commonly done is to make up a "strap loop" probably 6" long with stainless 
rings at each end and fed through the tack grommet before sewing the loop 
closed...Then on the top side of the gooseneck fitting, install a reefing hook 
..Then the line reefing is used for the clew portion of the main and when 
it comes time to reef, you simply lower the main and drop one of the rings over 
the reefing hook. The other ring keeps the loop from pulling through the 
cringle.  Then tighten the halyard again.

Then use the clew reefing line to set the final sail shape.

The fitting that mounts on the gooseneck is like this one.   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-3-8-Reefing-Hook-Sailboat-Sailing-Hardware-Schaefer-Marine-54-21-New-/172132586166?hash=item2813e6d2b6:g:-TwAAOSwwpdW5YT9=mtr

Best,

Ron Casciato




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 2:24 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments


Awesome guys!  Thanks everyone for the input.  It looks like "that's just the 
way it is".  Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with anything earth 
shatteringly better.

As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes in the 
boom.   Besides, I'm not sure a track or block necessarily looks cleaner so 
I'll probably stick with a tied on method.

Does anybody have any thoughts on using a  soft shackle and an eye splice to 
attach the reefing lines around the boom?

I was also considering a single line reefing system.  One challenge is that 
where most setups have the line exit the boom at the mast and turn up to the 
reef cringle, my boom is solid on top AND my aversion to drilling holes extends 
to the mast as well.  So if I tried a single line reef, it would have the line 
turn down to the mast collar (like it did previously) but instead of simply 
running back to the cabin (winch and jammer), the line would run back up to the 
reef cringle, and back down on the other side of the boom to another turning 
block which would lead back to the winch and cleat where it would finish.

Thoughts on my plan?

Thoughts on single line reefing?  I've heard some pretty strong arguments 
against and only a few advocates.

Thanks again,
Josh
On Apr 8, 2016 1:49 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...

Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom.  I still tie the 
reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.

The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as 
stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks.

Best regards,

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Robbie Epstein via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robbie Epstein
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a Schaefer 
Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can position the 
clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The reefing line goes 
through a hook that you use to select which reefing cringle you want to use.

Robbie Epstein

1980 C 40


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