Stus-List Re: 24 V vs. 12V Battery for 24 V system

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Electrically speaking it’s always preferable to charge batteries in series. That way each cell gets the same current. In parallel, the battery with the least impedance gets the most current. Cheers, AlSV ElendilC&C37/40+On May 20, 2024, at 9:36 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:Whoops, sorry,  that went flying out of here before I was done reviewing - should say rather than two 12V in Series.On Mon, May 20, 2024 at 12:31 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:Wondering if the electrically savvy in the group have a feeling as to whether it makes more sense to use 24V Batteries in Parallel rather than two in series.  My gut tells me that plain 24V would make more sense, but this is not my area of expertise.ThanksBill Coleman
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: West Coast C&C Rendezvous

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

We’ll be there. We’re in Ladysmith tonight. I hope to get in before low tide. 
Looking forward to seeing the C&C gang. 

Al Liles 
C&C 37/40+
Elendil 


> On Aug 3, 2023, at 9:06 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Calypso is staying in Port Ludlow, I have someone who saw the Boattrader ad 
> planning a visit to the area and our classic wood hulled power boat needs 
> some paint/varnish before our San Juan Island cruise starting next week.
> 
> Enjoy the gathering of the clan!
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso 
> 1971 C&C 43-1
> Port Ludlow 
> 
> Greta
> 1956 Matthews 42
> Port Ludlow 
> 
>> On Aug 3, 2023, at 8:51 PM, David Miles via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> See you there Tom and Lynn. 
>> At Silva Bay tonight. 
>> Really looking forward to seeing everyone. 
>> 
>> David Miles and Dave Smith
>> Impulse 1988 C&C 30MK2
>> 
 On August 3, 2023 5:01:29 p.m. Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
  wrote:
>>> 
>>> We'll be at Telegraph Harbor on Thetis Island tomorrow.  40  C&C's 
>>> expected...should be some fun!
>>> 
>>> Who else is going?
>>> 
>>> Tom Buscaglia
>>> Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40
>>> Vashon Island, WA
>>> www.sv-Alera.com
>>> P 206.463.9200
>>> F 206.463.9290
>>> C 305.409.3660
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks for your help.
>>> Stu
>> 
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 37+ Steering Cable

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Rivet not river. 

Cheers, Al


> On Aug 3, 2023, at 3:29 PM, Alan Liles  wrote:
> 
> I solved the hollow river issue by using large SS bolts (short but wide) 
> drilled through the center to accommodate the steering cables. The machine 
> shop that watercut the new SS plate did them on a lathe. The whole assembly 
> cost less than $500 CDN. 
> 
> Al Liles
> C&C37/40+
> Vancouver BC
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 37+ Steering Cable

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I solved the hollow river issue by using large SS bolts (short but wide) 
drilled through the center to accommodate the steering cables. The machine shop 
that watercut the new SS plate did them on a lathe. The whole assembly cost 
less than $500 CDN. 

Al Liles
C&C37/40+
Vancouver BC
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Be prepared to replace the idler plate under the pedestal. The original plate 
is steel which suffers from corrosion. Edson doesn’t make a direct replacement. 
The one that they sell is quite a bit thicker, requiring a spacer between the 
cockpit sole and the pedestal. I had a machine shop fab one and used drilled 
bolts to mount the idler pulleys. Fortunately the pedestal comes off easily. 
Check out the Edson video on their website for pedestal maintenance. 

Regards,
Al Liles
SV Elendil
1994 C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC



> On Oct 24, 2022, at 3:19 PM, Josh via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> There aren't too many options.  Measure the height of the pedestal, the 
> length to the quadrant, and half the circumference of the quadrant, add them 
> together and you should be close enough to eliminate all the other options.  
> Its actually a shame cause Rob Ball worked there until he died recently.
> 
> Looking on the website all the chain is the same size.  I believe the cable 
> is 1/4 inch (you can easily confirm by removing the deck plate and 
> measuring).  That leaves 2 options, the 9 foot cable length and the 27 foot 
> cable length.  There is absolutely no way it is 27 ft.  Verify the cable 
> diameter and you should be good with part number 774-2B2D9.
> 
> https://edsonmarine.com/content/Edson_K37B%20%28Printable%29%20SMALL-Website-sm.pdf
> 
> All the best,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37±
> Solomons, MD
> 
> Oct 24, 2022 16:27:43 Mark Baldridge via CnC-List :
> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> It's time to replace the steering cable on my C&C37+
>> 
>> I called Edson and they do not have the specs for the 37+. They said to find 
>> the chain length and wire length and diameter in order to pick the right kit.
>> 
>> I would like to have the new part in hand before I pull out the old one. 
>> Does anyone know the dimensions or correct kit to buy for my boat?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Mark Baldridge
>> ~~~_/)
>> '89 C&C 37+ #30 "The Edge"
>> Surf City, NC

Stus-List 37/40 prop shaft.

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I want to replace my prop shaft due to wear at the packing. Does the rudder 
need to be removed to get the shaft out on these boats?

Cheers, Al

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and shaft. I 
wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop and shaft 
come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m sold. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> On Oct 25, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Second Petit Prop Paint.  One must be careful with copper based paint on 
> stainless and bronze running gear;
>  
>  
> John and Maryann (dec’d 7/18/2021)
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
>  
>  
> From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2021 3:52 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: Neil Andersen
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again
>  
> I use Petit prop paint with good results 
>  
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 Ca& C 32, FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2021 3:36 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: Dean McNeill
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again
>  
> First full season for me with my C&C 34 and I used Interlux Micron CSC, as 
> that’s what the previous owner ’thought’ was on it when I bought it. A good 
> friend has also used it on his Tartan 3700 for years with good results.
>  
> I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s) and it has 
> worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest Arm in Halifax NS and 
> it was surprisingly super clean when it came out at end of season… a little 
> green scum in places but that’s it! Stainless prop shaft was caked with 
> barnacles and growth, so I’m guessing bottom paint worked great where it was 
> applied!
>  
> Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding prop) with 
> bottom paint?
>  
> Dean
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I replaced my fixed port lights two years ago. I used 1/4 “extruded plexiglas 
with VHB tape and Dow 795. The plexi had enough flex to accommodate the curve 
of the cabin and the VHB tape held it in place. The 795 was used to seal the 
gap. The installation was the easiest part of that job. The removal of the old 
plexi and the repairs to the damaged gel coat took the most time. The guy who 
cut my plexi was a bit of a butcher so I spent a day with a file smoothing out 
the chatter marks on the edges. In the end it looked great and, so far, no 
leaks.  

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> 
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Gooseneck fitting source?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Ken is correct. I’ve replaced mine with the Offshore Spars version. $145 and it 
fits like a glove. 

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> On Jun 14, 2021, at 2:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> If you like, I can sell you mine. I’ll make you a great deal. 
> 
> Boat included in purchase price. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jun 14, 2021, at 2:19 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looks like an 'Offshore Spars' gooseneck so try this one: 
> https://store.offshorespars.com/products/offshore-spars-1-2in-gooseneck-swivel?_pos=1&_sid=d778c22d9&_ss=r
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On Mon, 14 Jun 2021 at 17:18, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> Our gooseneck fitting is starting to wear, and the holes in it where the 
>> bolt fits down the center vertically are starting to wear egg-shaped.  You 
>> can see a photo here:  
>> 
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0
>> 
>> Does anyone know where to get a new fitting?
>> 
>> In the alternative, could I take it to a local weder and have it filled and 
>> re-drilled, or would you think that would be unwise for some reason?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for your insights,
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>> Madeira Beach, FL
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 40 rigging

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

When I refit my 37/40 the riggers wouldn’t touch it; too old. I replaced all 
the standing rigging and fittings. It was just shy of $20k Canadian. 

Cheers, Al


> On Mar 25, 2021, at 1:07 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> For the Marion Bermuda race 2009, 2011 and 2015 my original rigging on my 
> 1981 40-2 (I think its original) had to be surveyed for the race rider.  
> Passed each time.   But I doubt they would let go again.   Locally.  I have 
> absolute confidence in the rig.  Out there the loads can be incredible and 
> would plan on finally replacing it, or at least totally deconstructing and 
> x-raying it with a rigging blessing.   Mostly the issues are in heads.
>  
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 4:01 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 40 rigging
>  
> It is also an insurance issue.  Many times a rigging inspection is required.
>  
> Joel
>  
> On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 4:00 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard of 
> a rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C&C dealers a 
> long time ago.
>  
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
> 
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981 40. 
> We had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting where it 
> went around the spreader would have been in a different place. I think we 
> replaced some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my 1995 
> Baltic two years ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace all the 
> rod. The area to really look at is the spreader tips and the fittings there.
>  
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
>  
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ran into a snag:
> The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to pass 
> their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could not be 
> inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an idea on 
> the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
> It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> 
>  
> --
> Joel
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I had a boat painted with Imron. I was very happy with it. It was somewhat 
cheaper than Awlgrip but you need supplied fresh air when spraying as it’s 
fairly toxic. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Feb 24, 2021, at 7:20 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well, the old Wild Cheri is in bad need of a new paint job.  But rather than 
> a regular expensive marine paint, here's an interesting question:  Since 
> Corvettes and other cars are either fiberglass or plastic these days, 
> couldn't some kind of auto paint work as well on the deck and hull?
> I would imagine auto paint would be less expensive since it's used so often 
> and so widespread.
> Any downside the list can think of?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fresh Water Pump

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I, too, thought the Marco pump would be good for my system if my Shurflo quit 
working. Thanks for the warning. My Shurflo is quite loud. I’d like to find a 
quieter pump that has a smallish footprint. Let us know how you make out. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC


> On Feb 4, 2021, at 12:54 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> About a year ago I was looking for experience here on a Marco UP3 freshwater 
> pump, and there was no response.
>  
> To report on the Marco, I loved the pump, I just didn’t like that it quit 
> pulling water by September. A little over 3 months.  They did eventually take 
> it back, after several push-ups.
> I was hesitant  about Italian Engineering, but it was a beautiful little Gear 
> Pump, mostly SS,– ran quietly, smoothly, nice little LED’s to let you know 
> what was going on, , small footprint, would shut off if it sensed no water,  
> - As near as I could figure, the gears simply wore a little, enough to not 
> create the suction to pull water up a meter.
>  
> I am not real excited with the Flojet or Jabsco pumps I have used, and the 
> ShurFlos just seem so – so.
> Has anyone had any experience with the Johnson (5.0GPM Flow MasterPart #: 
> 10-13329-104) ? This is a variable speed/Volume, like the Marco, but not gear 
> driven. It is not all that expensive, which for some reason makes me 
> suspicious.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Screw removal

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I have found, when using heat, I first heat the screw very hot, then squirt 
water on it to cool it rapidly. It seems the shock of rapid temperature change 
breaks the bond. 
I have been consistently impressed by my 1/4” impact driver. It pops out 
fasteners that look corroded and seized quite easily. 
Occasionally nothing works. Then you may have to relocate the whole bracket and 
redrill the holes.  Trying to drill out small stainless fasteners in aluminum 
with a hand drill is hardly ever successful. 

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Jan 14, 2021, at 11:24 AM, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'll fifth the impact. But only if the threads are clean and no corrosion on 
> the fasteners (because they'll just break)
> 
> Otherwise, heat is more your friend. And heat the shit out of it. Map torch, 
> oxy/acetylene, etc 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Last time I had a yard do bottom work they suggested zinc rich spray paint 
(cold galvanize). I let them apply it and two years later it looks pretty good, 
no hard growth at all. This time I did my own bottom work and I redid the prop 
the same way. It’s certainly cheap enough. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37/40 hatch sizes.

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

My forward hatch is an Ocean 70 but my four cabin hatches are Coastline 20.

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> On Jun 19, 2020, at 9:54 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Len,
> 
> Thanks. The “70” and “20” was all I really needed. I’ll find specs. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Jun 19, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd, what do you need to know. Lewmar 1x ocean 70 and 4x ocean 20. I am on 
> the boat but can measure hatches or send you the specs for them. I have 
> covers on the 70 and 2 20s. They are snap domed onto the aluminum frames. If 
> you need a pic let me know and I will PM send it. It really makes a 
> difference in the hot Ontario sun. Len 
> 
> Sent from my mobile device. 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New Windows 1987 MKIII

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I used a sharp chisel to remove the old glue. There was a bit of damage where 
the gelcoat pulled off. I patched it with white epoxy filler and the new 
acrylic covered over all my shady filling and sanding. 

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+


> On Jun 2, 2020, at 3:18 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> I'm in the process of doing this now without the metal frames that Leaky 
> Windows provides.  I'm having two cut from 1/4 inch acrylic plexiglass grey 
> 2064 tint at a local  glass shop in CT for a total of $500.  I'm going to 
> affix it with 3M vhb tape and seal it with the Dow corning 795 black 
> silicone.  The tricky part is getting the old brown adhesive off the gel 
> coat. It looks like it's going to pull up some of the gelcoat so there will 
> be some needed repair.
> 
> Here is a good life link to the process.
> https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 5:57 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayn
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Coolant

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I’m using Yanmar premixed coolant which I get from my local marine store at a 
reasonable price. I changed mine last week after three years and the old stuff 
looked the same as the new. There are about 200 hours since the last change so 
it was time. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rudder axial play

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks for the responses, gentlemen. I’ll pull the radial quadrant to check the 
bearings, then, when I get hauled, I’ll look for the spacer bushing. I have a 
piece of Delrin I can cut a new bushing from. I’ll certainly be happier when 
the steering and rudder are all checked out. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40
Vancouver BC


> On Mar 18, 2020, at 6:46 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> In the case of Kaylarah ('90 C&C 37+) which should be the same design, the 
> rudder hangs on two ball bearings on a transverse shaft that sit on top of a 
> round metal bearing plate on top of the deck.  The only thing that restricts 
> upward motion is a Delrin shim washer that sits between the top of the rudder 
> and the bottom rudder bearing.
> 
> Gary
> SV Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, Ri, USA
> ~~~_/)~~~~~~
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Mar 17, 2020 at 9:57 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello All,
>> 
>> The rudder on my C&C 37/40 was clunking while running before a following 
>> sea. I removed the pedestal and cables to replace my idler plate and when I 
>> grabbed the radial quadrant atop the rudder post to check for play I found 
>> quite a bit (3/4"or so) of axial play (up and down). My question is; how is 
>> the rudder located in the axial plane? Do the upper and lower bushings act 
>> as thrust bushings as well? I've looked at the rudder drawings provided by 
>> Ken Heaton but can't tell if the lower bushing is the one that sets the end 
>> play in the rudder shaft. The boat will be out of the water soon so that 
>> will be my big chance to fix this.
>> 
>> Alan Liles
>> SV Elendil, C&C 37/40
>> Vancouver, BC
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Rudder axial play

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hello All,

The rudder on my C&C 37/40 was clunking while running before a following
sea. I removed the pedestal and cables to replace my idler plate and when I
grabbed the radial quadrant atop the rudder post to check for play I found
quite a bit (3/4"or so) of axial play (up and down). My question is; how is
the rudder located in the axial plane? Do the upper and lower bushings act
as thrust bushings as well? I've looked at the rudder drawings provided by
Ken Heaton but can't tell if the lower bushing is the one that sets the end
play in the rudder shaft. The boat will be out of the water soon so that
will be my big chance to fix this.

Alan Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40
Vancouver, BC
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

What color lacquer did you use on your 37/40? My 37/40 has a light lacquer on 
the teak below decks which is nice because it lightens up the interior. My 
problem is matching the existing color when fixing water damage. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC



> On Feb 11, 2020, at 3:38 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My 94 37/40+ did not seem to be oiled, but rather sealed with lacquer.  Using 
> lacquer thinner and alcohol is enough to soften it/ use it as a remover.  
> Following the with a furniture scraper or equipment was good enough to allow 
> my to redcoat with lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> Date: 2/11/20 5:10 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List Interior teak water stains
> 
> My interior teak has never been varnished or polyurethaned (?)--It was 
> originally oiled and I re-oiled it once or twice many years ago.
> 
> I would like to apply some Epiphanes to all of it--and there is a lot of it 
> inside my 1995 C&C! However, much of it has 'water stains' from various leaks 
> over the years--most of which are now sealed. 
> 
> My question for the list is how or whether to remove these stains--they are 
> not like water marks left by a glass on a wooden table. They are mostly on 
> vertical surfaces and run vertically. There are enough of them to make 
> sanding them a formidable job so I want to be sure that sanding would be 
> necessary. 
> 
> Some web videos show using heat (iron, blow dryers, etc.) to drive the 
> remaining water out and make the stain disappear which is easy enough to try. 
> 
> Anyone on the list have suggestions to reduce the scale of this job--putting 
> several coats of varnish on all of it would be a formidable job in 
> itself--adding sanding to the surface prep, which I realize is probably the 
> most important part of the job, could make it virtually impossible!
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C XL/kcb
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Thickness of acrylic cabin windows on LF38?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I used a sharp chisel to get the Plexus off. 

Alan Liles
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:22 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the replies, sounds like I can use either 3/8" or 1/4". I'm going 
> with 3/8" (9mm) for the extra strength and so it will be flush with the 
> exterior hull surface. The actual sizes from Acrylite are in mm, I just 
> measured in inches out of habit. 
> 
> I have one window pulled now (it came out quite easily, fortunately, after 
> thrubolts were removed). The prep / cleanup looks like it's going to take a 
> long time, as expected but maybe a bit worse than expected. This plexus stuff 
> is a *pain*. 
> 
> On the surface closest to the old window was a black rubbery sealant, which 
> comes off easily, but below that is some kind of black / brown hard epoxy. 
> From prior threads 
> (http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2015-February/073099.html
>  ) I understand this is a methacrylate adhesive, aka Plexus (the brand name). 
> Robert H in the prior thread decided to just fair over it, which I may have 
> to do as well in some places. 
> 
> Another thread that discusses the Plexus headache is by Gary Russell - 
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2015-December/080369.html
> His experience was a bit different though (he had a very hard time separating 
> the old acrylic from the Plexus), which makes me think maybe our windows have 
> been previously replaced, and a sealant was used on top of the Plexus. It 
> sounds like he used a router or RotoZip to cut off the plexus.
> 
> We shall see (this will take a while). 
> 
> -Patrick
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Rudder lubrication Landfall 38

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Many of our boat’s rudders are supported by Delrin bushings. Many of these 
parts have lasted a long time. When they need replacement I would suggest using 
Delrin AF. It’s PTFE impregnated Delrin, somewhat slipperier than the original. 

Alan Liles
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Mystery

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

This year my tank started to fill rather slowly. Trying to fill faster resulted 
in fuel backing up in the hose. I haven’t gotten to it yet but I’ll replace the 
fill and vent hoses to see if that cures it. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40
Vancouver BC


> On Oct 30, 2019, at 1:37 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The bottom of our tank is not flat, it slopes downhill a bit toward the 
> pickup tube at the front so boat trim would have to change a lot to affect 
> this (on our 37/40).
> 
> I can confirm I have put up to 44 US Gallons in our tank when it was 
> completely empty.
> 
> On your tank, does your pickup tube end far short of the bottom somehow?  
> Ours is quite close to the bottom so we depend on the Racor to separate the 
> crap and water out that would be left on the bottom of the tank by a shorter 
> pickup tube.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> On Wed, 30 Oct 2019 at 16:10, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>> The pickup tube is near the forward part of the tank.  Have you done 
>> anything to change the pitch of the boat?  If you removed bow weight or 
>> added stern weight or both, this could change the pitch such that fuel 
>> collects further from the pickup tube.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 2:47 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I have a puzzle.  I was on my way to fill up last trip out for a nice 
>>> weekend rendezvous with out club when I ran out of fuel.  Fortunately, I 
>>> was close enough to our club in the inner harbor.  I dropped the dinghy and 
>>> ran to shore to get a gerry can of diesel.  When I finally got to the gas 
>>> dock in Tacoma she only took 24.5 G of diesel.  I made sure that the filler 
>>> tube was open and even intentionally overfilled it to make sure the vent 
>>> was clear (than god for my catch can!)  I made sure the tank was topped off.
>>> 
>>> I have never trusted by gauge as it would show empty when there was 1/2 a 
>>> tank left.  I used to chart all time and distance religiously in my old 
>>> boat and did the same on Alera initially.  Then I realized that unlike out 
>>> old 35 MK1 Alera had a functioning Hobbes meter.  So over the last few 
>>> seasons I got lax and instead of copious logging I just take a picture of 
>>> the Hobbes meter at every fill up.  Made sense and eliminated the problem 
>>> of accounting for sailing time on long runs.  Based on the Hobbes meter 
>>> reading from the last fill up the engine ran 26 hrs.  Very consistent with 
>>> my established burn rate of 0.9 GpHr. 
>>> 
>>> I started to suspect that maybe the PO had replaced the original 40G tank 
>>> with a smaller one.  However, when I checked my log book I have had several 
>>> occasions where the fill up was more than30G..  Not many, but more than one 
>>> or two over the 25G mark.
>>> 
>>> The rancor is clean and aside from need to bleed the system down to the 
>>> injectors to get her started after the stall out, no air leaks in the fuel 
>>> system.  Motoring in flat seas, so sloshing fuel is not it either.
>>> 
>>> Have at it C&C sleuths...I am at a loss.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Tom B
>>> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
>>> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
>>> SV Alera
>>> C&C 37+/40
>>> Vashon Island WA
>>> (206) 463-9200
>>> www.sv-alera.com 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 2:47 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I have a puzzle.  I was on my way to fill up last trip out for a nice 
>>> weekend rendezvous with out club when I ran out of fuel.  Fortunately, I 
>>> was close enough to our club in the inner harbor.  I dropped the dinghy and 
>>> ran to shore to get a gerry can of diesel.  When I finally got to the gas 
>>> dock in Tacoma she only took 24.5 G of diesel.  I made sure that the filler 
>>> tube was open and even intentionally overfilled it to make sure the vent 
>>> was clear (than god for my catch can!)  I made sure the tank was topped off.
>>> 
>>> I have never trusted by gauge as it would show empty when there was 1/2 a 
>>> tank left.  I used to chart all time and distance religiously in my old 
>>> boat and did the same on Alera initially.  Then I realized that unlike out 
>>> old 35 MK1 Alera had a functioning Hobbes meter.  So over the last few 
>>> seasons I got lax and instead of copious logging I just take a picture of 
>>> the Hobbes meter at every fill up.  Made sense and eliminated the problem 
>>> of accounting for sailing time on long runs.  Based on the Hobbes meter 
>>> reading from the last fill up the engine ran 26 hrs.  Very consistent with 
>>> my established burn rate of 0.9 GpHr. 
>>> 
>>> I started to suspect that maybe the PO had replaced the

Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40 1990

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hi Lee,
Creola was for sale when I was looking for my boat, four years ago. There’s 
probably a reason she’s been on the market for so long. As others have 
mentioned, a good survey is your best bet. Even if you have to walk away, it’s 
well worth it.

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:39 AM, Lee Harris via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others) 
> indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is the 
> balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for all 
> older boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced as 
> well..thxs lee
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Last summer my two shaft zincs and one prop zinc were gone in six months. I 
hung a zinc fish, connected to my shaft with a slightly modified jumper cable, 
during the winter. Three weeks ago I sent a diver down to change the zincs and 
he reported that all were good. Conditions change, neighboring boats change but 
I’ll be hanging that zinc this winter. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> On Jul 9, 2019, at 6:57 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging 
> from a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others 
> think it’s a wasted effort. 
> 
> What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
> power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat? 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Adding cover to line

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

When I upgraded the halyards to dyneema, the clutches (Lewmar) slipped quite a 
bit before they would grab. I cleaned and lubed the mechanism inside the clutch 
and it worked much better. 

Cheers, Al

> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I like my Dyneema lifelines for all the same reasons as Jerry, plus it’s easy 
to splice yourself thus making it cheaper still to install. 
I read that chafe is an issue but it’s easy to check any chafe points and I’ve 
never found a problem. I don’t have any 250 lb crew on the rail, mostly, so 
there is that. 

Cheers, Al
C&C 37/40, Elendil.
North Van, BC

> On May 12, 2019, at 6:19 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would replace with Dyneema, super-strong , greater strength for its 
> diameter than wire, easy to splice, lightweight, feels good to the touch 
> (doesn't cut into your back), easy to inspect, needs fewer fittings than 
> wire, low-stretch, doesn't chafe sheets and sails, costs less and looks 
> better.
> 
> See https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-replacing-lifelines.  Jerry
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Mold prevention

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I have an Evadry dehumidifier that has run more or less constantly for three 
years and it’s still going. It takes about 1/2 liter per week out of the air. I 
need to run small heaters in the winter to prevent the dehumidifier from 
freezing. One of my better purchases

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
Vancouver BC. 


> On Sep 30, 2018, at 5:56 PM, Dave. via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> We use 3 Dri-Z-Aires in the winter in SLY and for us that does the trick. SLY 
> lives in the water at her slip but is inactive all winter here in the 
> Northwest. No issue with mold in the summer for us.
> Dave.
> 1975 C&C 33
> SLY
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Sep 30, 2018, at 6:58 AM, David via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Boat is ventilated ( not dehumified) and bulkheads clean but we get this 
>> light patina of easily removed mold on a regular basis.   Is there a 
>> solution to prevent regrowth or is that the TSP bleach water solution to 
>> clean same.  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From my Android
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

When my starter failed, it burned causing a lot of smoke and excitement. I 
think the solenoid contacts stuck in the closed position causing large current 
flow. In any case a fire on board is a bad day. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Jul 10, 2018, at 7:01 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would definitely check the voltage at the starter solenoid coil coming from 
> the button.  I found on my 37+ that the voltage was very low because C&C used 
> very small gauge wire (22 Ga.) from the engine panel to the solenoid.  This 
> resulted in a significant voltage drop (5-6 volts) which precluded the 
> solenoid from pulling in reliably.  There are two solutions if this is your 
> problem.   Rewire the start button with at least 18 Ga wire, or put a relay 
> next to the starter so the solenoid gets the full 12 volts to the coil.  I 
> put a relay in because I was too lazy to string all that wire.  I've had no 
> problems since.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 9:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar 
>> engines.  Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is 
>> occasionally exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the 
>> button for a few tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over 
>> after 2 or 3 clicks, engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are 
>> fine, cranking speed is fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or 
>> wiring??  Can someone point me to the thread or advise the consensus of the 
>> fix?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> 
>> Legacy III
>> 
>> 1982 C&C 34
>> 
>> Noank, CT
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I, too, had trouble with the tank manifold when I got my boat. The pointy end 
of the valve handle has to be in the proper orientation to select the tank. I 
still have to look at the almost hidden label to determine which way that is. I 
think the pointed end is toward the outlet of the manifold to select the tank. 
It's counterintuitive and I often end up on my knees with a flashlight. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Jul 9, 2018, at 7:43 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or 
> three diaphragms.  There are often inlet and outlet check values as well.  
> The checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat 
> alternately as a drive motor runs.  As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows 
> in the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no 
> longer seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow.  One of the 
> first symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming).  
> Since air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces.  If 
> the pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough 
> back pressure to seal the seating surfaces.  You can then pull water from the 
> tanks.  As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained 
> the pump will continue to work.  Once the tank goes dry there is no more 
> water to seal the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be 
> enough since the pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump.
> 
> Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater 
> tanks, will degrade rubber components over time.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello, 
>> 
>> As new owners of our C&C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a 
>> ball.  Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall 
>> appraisal!  But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for 
>> assistance hopefully.  
>> 
>> The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty 
>> much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could 
>> get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the 
>> lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee 
>> tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this 
>> distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and 
>> from there to the galley and head.  As the boat is new to me, I suspect I 
>> may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct 
>> valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the 
>> valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, 
>> possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running 
>> down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing apart! 
>> I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the dock!  
>> What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you run 
>> both tanks together, or not?  
>> 
>> Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self 
>> priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would 
>> be an alternate question?
>> 
>> Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously!
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Maurice Poulin
>> C&C 30 MKII, Monoloy
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Fire extinguishers

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

 
https://ccga-pacific.org/files/library/01-07_Portable_Fire_Extinguishers_April_11,2007.pdf

I did find this. It's not recertification but a yearly maintenance tag. Six of 
one...



Cheers, Al

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Sorry, Mike. I didn't mean to imply that you're not Canadian. It's hard to let 
go of something you've believed for a long time. 

Cheers, Al


> On Jun 30, 2018, at 6:15 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Best before date.  Where’s that found?
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
>> On Jun 30, 2018, at 7:34 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I haven’t seen it, either. As far as I know, as long as your extinguisher 
>> has a best before date that is not past, it is good to go.
>>  
>> Marek
>> Ottawa, ON
>>  
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Alan Liles via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2018 19:04
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Alan Liles 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
>>  
>> Everyone I talk to says yearly and yet I can't find the regulation that 
>> states it clearly. Any Canadians have an idea?
>> 
>> Alan Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> Vancouver BC
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Everyone I talk to says yearly and yet I can't find the regulation that states 
it clearly. Any Canadians have an idea?

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver BC


> On Jun 29, 2018, at 12:21 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Al
> 
> You may be looking at the wrong standard.
> 
> From Transport Canada Marine
> All extinguishers should be visually inspected each month, and serviced once 
> a year. All carbon dioxide extinguishers should be weighed annually. Dry 
> chemical extinguishers should occasionally be turned upside down and shaken.
> A hydrostatic test should be performed:
> every 12 years for pressure type extinguishers
> 
> every 5 years for carbon dioxide and water extinguishers
> 
> after discharge for any extinguisher 5 years old or older
> There is a requirement for yearly certification under the Canada safety code.
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
>> On Jun 28, 2018, at 8:04 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Canadian regulations require fire extinguishers to be recertified yearly. 
>> It's probably a good thing but I always complain about the cost. 
>> 
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> Vancouver BC
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 27, 2018, at 6:59 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> make sure the powder is not compacted, need to shake it up regularly.  It 
>>> will not work if the powder is in one big lump.
>>> 
>>> Leslie,
>>> semi-retired USAR member.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Wed, 6/27/18, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: "svrebeccaleah" 
>>> Date: Wednesday, June 27, 2018, 9:55 AM
>>> 
>>> Eric,I
>>> just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a
>>> year embossed on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was
>>> 94. As long as the pressure is in the green, and weight is
>>> above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this is how we
>>> check the at the airline I work for).  I use a small
>>> kitchen scale. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Doug
>>> Mountjoy Rebecca
>>> Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC,
>>> WA.
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  Original
>>> message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
>>>  Date: 6/27/18 
>>> 08:56  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Eric Frank 
>>> Subject: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers
>>> & Lifeslings 
>>> 
>>> Checking the condition of the
>>> extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a date on
>>> them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years,
>>> or is it sufficient to just check that the pressure
>>> indicator is safely in the green? A related safety issue - I
>>> checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered the
>>> splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier
>>> line that is secured to a deck cleat was in terrible
>>> condition.  It would likely have broken had we used it.
>>> That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly
>>> is now - just passing this along to the group.
>>> Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so it's likely the
>>> plastic line should be replaced.  Is that safe (and would
>>> it satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice
>>> the plastic line with the heavier line at the end? For this
>>> year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, although the
>>> Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in
>>> good condition.
>>> 
>>> Eric
>>> Frank
>>> Cat's
>>> Paw, C&C 35 Mk II
>>> Mattapoisett, MA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting
>>> this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
>>> greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Inline Attachment Follows-
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Canadian regulations require fire extinguishers to be recertified yearly. It's 
probably a good thing but I always complain about the cost. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver BC


> On Jun 27, 2018, at 6:59 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> make sure the powder is not compacted, need to shake it up regularly.  It 
> will not work if the powder is in one big lump.
> 
> Leslie,
> semi-retired USAR member.
> 
> 
> On Wed, 6/27/18, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "svrebeccaleah" 
> Date: Wednesday, June 27, 2018, 9:55 AM
> 
> Eric,I
> just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a
> year embossed on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was
> 94. As long as the pressure is in the green, and weight is
> above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this is how we
> check the at the airline I work for).  I use a small
> kitchen scale. 
> 
> 
> Doug
> Mountjoy Rebecca
> Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC,
> WA.
> 
> 
>  Original
> message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
>  Date: 6/27/18 
> 08:56  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Eric Frank 
> Subject: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers
> & Lifeslings 
> 
> Checking the condition of the
> extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a date on
> them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years,
> or is it sufficient to just check that the pressure
> indicator is safely in the green? A related safety issue - I
> checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered the
> splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier
> line that is secured to a deck cleat was in terrible
> condition.  It would likely have broken had we used it.
> That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly
> is now - just passing this along to the group.
>  Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so it's likely the
> plastic line should be replaced.  Is that safe (and would
> it satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice
> the plastic line with the heavier line at the end? For this
> year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, although the
> Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in
> good condition.
> 
> Eric
> Frank
> Cat's
> Paw, C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting
> this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
> greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> -Inline Attachment Follows-
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I'm wondering about grounding for lightning protection with an epoxy coated 
keel. Isn't that why the mast is connected, electrically to the keel. I've had 
lightning strike very close, which aroused my interest in avoidance of being hit

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On May 3, 2018, at 3:02 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Josh is on track.  I just helped fix a "smile" on a 35-2.   Sanded to bare 
> lead then quickly applied epoxy with a 3M scrub pad with vigorous rubbing.  
> Minimizes the oxidation and promotes a good bond.  Once you get the epoxy on 
> the lead then you can apply barrier coat, paint, fairing, whatever.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 4:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy into the metal with a wire 
>> brush or a scrubby pad.  Anytime an epoxy coating is applied (west systems, 
>> interprotect, etc) I've been told that to ensure proper adhesion between 
>> layers you need to apply the next layer while the last coating is still soft 
>> or tacky.  This includes the first coat of bottom paint.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:11 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old 
>>> faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I 
>>> use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier 
>>> coat, and what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the 
>>> hull to gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom 
>>> paint...any other ideas...? Many thanks...
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Richard
>>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
>>> 
>>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
>>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>>> 502-584-7255
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>> To: C&C List 
>>> Cc: Josh Muckley 
>>> Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
>>> 
>>> Send us a picture.
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD 
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the 
>>> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. 
>>> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the 
>>> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding 
>>> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving 
>>> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
>>> Yanmar 2gmf.
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I used the dark bronze plexiglass and you can't see the join. 

Al Liles 
SV Elendil
Vancouver 


> On Mar 13, 2018, at 9:45 AM, M Bodnar via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Ditto.  The Kylon Fusion flat black worked well for me.  
> -
>> On 2018-03-13 11:19 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
>> Chuck — I used the Krylon Fusion flat black spray paint around the edges of 
>> my windows, and it worked well.
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Mar 13, 2018, at 9:00 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Happy spring??  I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the 
>>> smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas,  prior to installing, to hide the the VHB 
>>> and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white 
>>> cabin side along those edge areas.
>>> 
>>> I have the window dug out, whew, and cleaned up with Mechanica silicone 
>>> remover and mineral spirits.  I actually lost only three patches of knuckle 
>>> skin. I have also sanded the receiving perimeter of the plexi where it will 
>>> make contact with the tape and/or paint.
>>> 
>>> I could not find the mention of the painting step in the archive.  Has 
>>> anyone painted this and have advice?  I purchased a can of Krylon High-bond 
>>> plastic paint in flat black. It's waiting in the barn...  Thoughts?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Chuck Saur
>>> ​Morning Sky
>>> C&C 35-3
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

My 1994 37/40+ has a light colored stain on the teak, I suppose, in an effort 
to lighten up the cabin. I, also, wonder what I would use to match the color. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
Vancouver BC


> On Feb 27, 2018, at 3:26 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Have for many years applied lemon oil to interior teak woodwork every spring. 
>  Use varnish for cabin sole every 5 years or so. Use Cetol for top of 
> companionway steps every 3 years or so.  All works just great with great 
> results
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:24 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)
>  
> Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to 
> last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain 
> the teak.
>  
> First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 
> 180 grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that 
> to dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for 
> it's durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of 
> Epiphanes Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that 
> gives off a beautiful lustre.
> You can varnish over most teak oils.
> Peregrine was done that way before I got her and in the five years I had her 
> the finish still looked terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with 
> vinegar and water every now and then.
>  
> Andy
> Formerly: C&C 40
> Peregrine
>  
> Now: Baltic 47
> Masquerade
>  
> On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hello all,
>  
> I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
> out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
> lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
> woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
> like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
> don't have to refinish every square inch.
>  
> What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
> all), and what would you recommend for a new coating? 
>  
> I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time. 
>  
> I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
> decision.
>  
> Thanks for the insights!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37/40 Fuel tank removal

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

An update on the tank situation. The tank sits on rubber strips on the port and 
starboard bottom edges, bearing directly on the hull. The wooden strips 
(cleats) are screwed to to sides of the well at the top to retain the tank. In 
my situation one of the rubbers strips was dislodged and the forward edge of 
the tank was bearing on the two stringers. This  caused some abrasions in the 
aluminum. There was some evidence of a fuel leak (dried) but pressure testing 
of the tank didn't reveal any leaks. A mystery. The tank went to an aluminum 
tank welding shop and got patches welded over the abrasions. I've ordered some 
thicker rubber to raise the tank a bit for clearance of the patches. When that 
arrives I'll have to remove some material from the hold down cleats and adjust 
the connection holes. At least the tank got cleaned out, which was the original 
intent. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil C&C 37/40
Vancouver 


> On Jan 29, 2018, at 7:00 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sorry I can't help but I'm looking forward to updates on your project. 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jan 29, 2018, 9:57 AM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I am trying to remove the fuel tank in a 1994 37/40. I have removed the aft 
>> berth to expose the tank top. I have removed the two hold down cleats (cut 
>> down 2x4 screwed to the tank well sides at the top). The tank still seems 
>> very solid, but I can't see anything else holding it. Has anyone else done 
>> this?
>> 
>> Alan Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> Vancouver BC
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37/40 Fuel tank removal

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I worked on the boat tonight removing all hoses and wires. Using a large 
screwdriver at the edge I was able to get the tank moving. I think it will lift 
right out now. I'll wait for a second pair or hands to help with the actual 
removal. 
Looking through the level sensor hole I can see a small sump under the fuel 
pickup tube. Some black goop in the sump but not much else I could see. 
In any case it must come out to inspect the bottom and I'll steam it out as 
best I can. 

Alan Liles
SV Elendil 
Vancouver BC


> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 37/40 Fuel tank removal

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I am trying to remove the fuel tank in a 1994 37/40. I have removed the aft 
berth to expose the tank top. I have removed the two hold down cleats (cut down 
2x4 screwed to the tank well sides at the top). The tank still seems very 
solid, but I can't see anything else holding it. Has anyone else done this?

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver BC


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MKII - Winter or Spring anti-fouling/bottom job?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hi Chris, I would consider a soda blasting job on my boat, also in Vancouver. 
If you find someone to do it let me know as I, too, am tired of sanding. I 
would only consider doing the bottom in the spring while hoping for dry 
weather. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Oct 20, 2017, at 2:16 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Interesting discussion.  I've sanded the bottom of my 35-1 every year for the 
> past 8 years, probably has 40 yrs of old bottom paint on it some of which 
> still lifts up after sanding it smooth when I put the new paint on.  I've got 
> all the gear, full face mask and suit, can do the whole bottom in two 4-6 hr 
> days, but it's the worst part of the spring.
> 
> Finally got fed up last spring and am currently arranging to have the marina 
> soda blast when I haul out. Hopefully after barrier coat I'll only have to 
> light sand and paint with anti-fouling each year. Price is $50/ft for soda 
> blast, not cheap by my arms are getting tired.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> 
> 
>> On 10/20/2017 3:45 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List wrote:
>> This is a two part query about doing the bottom of a sailboat by a 
>> first-timer.
>> 
>> The high pressure spray that removed the previous saltwater growth of 1.5 
>> years (during the survey in July) also removed part of the protective coat 
>> of anti-fouling that was left. I thought I would get around to re-doing the 
>> bottom this past summer/fall. It didn’t happen. Now I'm approaching winter 
>> and contemplating a haul-out in November (in rainy Vancouver) or waiting 
>> until spring. But I’m not sure how much more work would be involved by 
>> putting it off until spring. Would like to hear some other opinions on this.
>> 
>> I also have a marina telling me soda blasting is the way to go. And based on 
>> the hell that is involved with a project like this, my lack of time and the 
>> weather, I’m contemplating it.
>> 
>> Chris Hobson
>> S/V Going
>> 1980 C&C MKI
>> Hull 615
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C&C 37/40+

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I just replaced my old breaker blowing, jamming, 14 year old windlass. It turns 
out that the 50 feet of 3/8 BBB chain and the 200 feet of 3/4 nylon rope were 
incompatible with the existing gypsy. Gypsies are selective about their rode so 
if I were buying new I would make sure it would work with my existing windlass 
or my prospective new windlass. Check the manufacturers specification for rode 
before you buy. 

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Oct 2, 2017, at 10:09 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It just occurred to me that I misspoke about the 9/16ths chain.  I ment 
> 5/16ths.
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On Oct 2, 2017 11:48 AM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:
>> Bruce,
>> 
>> I'm in the process of upgrading/modifying my ground tackle in preps for a 
>> manual windlass.  The PO had arranged a 35lbs Bruce claw with 20' of 3/8ths 
>> BBB chain shackled to 3/4" double braid which had an eye splice and thimble. 
>>  The thimble was huge and made retrieving the anchor difficult since getting 
>> the thimble to roll over the bow roller was almost impossible.  I never had 
>> to ride out a severe storm but there were a few spirited nights which held 
>> securely.  Some people don't sleep well on the hook but I never had a 
>> problem.
>> 
>> As for the upgrade:  I found a manual Simpson Lawrence Anchorman 500 on ebay 
>> for ~$200.  It came with a gypsy that is designed to seamlessly transition 
>> from rode to chain.  Multiple gypsies were available but this one takes 
>> 9/16th g4 chain and 1/2 rode.  I'd hear good things about plated nylon rode 
>> (it doesn't twist and cause hockles in the chain) so while I was wondering 
>> Bacon Sail in Annapolis I purchased their ~150 feet.  I was also prepared to 
>> buy cut chain but when I toured in the back I found a small cardboard box 
>> labeled 9/16 g4 35'.  It was a little shorter than I had planned but not too 
>> much shorter.
>> 
>> I do all my own rope splices and rigging so it wasn't too much to find the 
>> instructions for doing a chain to rode splice.  It turned out pretty well.  
>> I have yet to install the windlass.  This season had only necessitated 
>> anchoring for 1 single 30 minute swim call.  Evidently the plated rode 
>> swells when wet so my 50' flakes jammed tight and I couldn't untie the first 
>> one.  I was only able to set the anchor with the chain in 7 foot depths.  It 
>> held fine and pulled up a huge clump of mud but I wouldn't have trusted it.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 2, 2017 8:59 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary 
>>> anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also 
>>> about 20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional 
>>> wisdom I think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly 
>>> recommended in order to keep the anchor set.  
>>> 
>>> Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is a 
>>> little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where 
>>> anchoring in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're 
>>> stupid enough to set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will 
>>> eventually want to be doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm 
>>> thinking carrying some additional rode poses little downsides.
>>> 
>>> Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9 feet 
>>> of boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage and 
>>> boat weight.  I consider our C&C to be relatively low both on the windage 
>>> and weight scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats I've seen 
>>> out there.  The 1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a breaking 
>>> strength of 7,500 lbs., but I presume the issue is more about chafe 
>>> protection than breaking strength per se.  So, the questions are as follows:
>>> 
>>> 1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't 
>>> have a windlass now, but may eventually put one in.
>>> 
>>> 2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you 
>>> recommend if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?  
>>> 
>>> I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the 
>>> primary Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for 
>>> our secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser 
>>> amount on the secondary is advisable.
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance, 
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>>> 
>>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>>> contri

Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c&c mkii - now dehumidifiers

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I have an Evadry that runs all year long. It's over a year old and still going 
strong. I find that in the cold weather the cooling plate freezes up so I use a 
timer to let the ice melt then run again. It works well, I take about a liter 
of water out most rainy winter weeks

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> On Sep 27, 2017, at 6:10 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I did quite a bit of research on dehumidifiers after buying my boat.  The 
> surveyor said I needed a dehumidifier with a heating coil.  My research led 
> me to believe that desiccant dehumidifiers were best.  I ended up going with 
> this one: http://a.co/bqzR9jp  It's not too big and sits on the galley 
> counter and drains into the galley sink.  It works well and I'm really happy. 
> I also run a small heater and fan. 
> 
> Recently, I also bought a temp and humidity logger gadget for tracking such 
> data when I'm not at the boat. (I'm a sucker for gadgets...)  When I'm 
> cruising the same gadget will go in the ice box to tell me the temp there. 
> http://a.co/8Cyk0BA
> 
> Cheers,  
> Jeremy 
> 
>  C&C 34-1 #041 
>   Vancouver BC
> 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 12:23:17 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c&c mkii - now dehumidifiers
> Matthew
> 
>  
> 
> I have an Eva Dry mini dehumidifier on Persistence which is on all season 
> long.  It is extremely small and lightweight and does not use a dehumidifier. 
>  I leave on the counter in the galley when at dock and simply put it in the 
> sink while sailing.  It is rated at 1 cup water removal per day and seems to 
> work reasonably well.  Once upon a time we used to lug a full sized home 
> dehumidifier on and off our previous boat every time we went sailing.  That 
> was not fun.  The Eva Dry was a nice compromise.
> 
>  
> 
> Link here at the store where I bought it:
> 
> https://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9793
> 
>  
> 
> Hope this is of some interest and use
> 
>  
> 
> Mike
> 
> Persistence
> 
> Halifax, NS
> 
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Where do you connect overboard zincs? I would think directly to the shaft or 
engine but the ones I've seen don't have a cable long enough for that. 

Cheers, Al


> On Sep 25, 2017, at 10:44 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Overboard zincs make a lot of sense.  Great surface area for consumption, 
> fast inspection and stowed quickly before leaving dock.
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25MKII
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast pumping?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I spent some time loosening and tightening mast related items. The spare genoa 
halyard had the most effect. When I eased it the mast shook a couple of times 
then settled down. There has been no vibrations since, although the conditions 
have changed as well. Thanks for all replies on a perplexing issue. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Aug 13, 2017, at 9:30 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> These things can be mysterious. Here's some more items to check:
>  www.briontoss.com/spartalk/showthread.php?p=6821
> 
> Good luck with the quest.
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 02:27 AM 13/08/2017, you wrote:
> 
>> Loosen the backstay.
>> 
>>> On 8/13/2017 1:28 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Al,
>>> 
>>> Hoist a fender up a halyard so it hangs somewhere between the upper & lower 
>>> spreaders and is near or alongside the mast.
>>> 
>>> Or, goggle vortex shedding and then after an hour or so of reading, see 
>>> above.
>>> 
>>> It's nothing to worry about. Sweet does this occasionally.
>>> 
>>> Cheers, Russ
>>> 
>>> At 08:55 PM 12/08/2017, you wrote:
 So I'm sitting at the dock with a 10 knot breeze on the beam and a strange 
 pulsating noise begins. You can feel it through the boat. I go on deck and 
 find it's the mast moving fore and aft at the middle. Thinking it strange 
 I tighten the baby stay and it slows but doesn't stop. Anyone else have 
 this happen? What to do?
 
 Cheers, Al
 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>>> 
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast pumping?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Sorry, forgot to mention it's a C&C37/40+. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver 


> On Aug 12, 2017, at 8:55 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> do?

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Mast pumping?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

So I'm sitting at the dock with a 10 knot breeze on the beam and a strange 
pulsating noise begins. You can feel it through the boat. I go on deck and find 
it's the mast moving fore and aft at the middle. Thinking it strange I tighten 
the baby stay and it slows but doesn't stop. Anyone else have this happen? What 
to do?

Cheers, Al


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37/40+ fuel tank clean out

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks Ken, I'm planning to do a complete cleanout in the off season but I'm 
getting a little black goo in my Racor bowl so I must do something now. I've 
rigged up a fuel pump and filter and I'll do my best to suck up as much as I 
can.

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver


> On Aug 3, 2017, at 2:22 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> It is a black rubber gasket on our tank sender.  Reusable with no issue.
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> 
>> On 3 August 2017 at 02:54, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Thanks, Gary, I'll try the fuel sender. Is it a gasket or  oring?
>> 
>> Cheers, Al
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 31, 2017, at 11:49 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Please be careful.  A dock of 20 power boats burned up two weeks ago from 
>>> someone doing this.  Everything grounded with a large Type B at the ready.
>>> Bill Dakin
>>> C&C25MKII
>>> S/V Tapestry
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://www.kxii.com/content/news/Highport-Marina-says-fire-started-from-man-pouring-out-gas-tank-436840283.html
>>> 
>>>> On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 11:52 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get 
>>>> through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom 
>>>> out through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is 
>>>> there a cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the 
>>>> berth and find that I have to remove the tank to get it clean. That's a 
>>>> job for the off season.
>>>> 
>>>> Al Liles
>>>> SV Elendil
>>>> C&C 37/40+
>>>> Vancouver
>>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37/40+ fuel tank clean out

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks, Gary, I'll try the fuel sender. Is it a gasket or  oring?

Cheers, Al


> On Jul 31, 2017, at 11:49 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Please be careful.  A dock of 20 power boats burned up two weeks ago from 
> someone doing this.  Everything grounded with a large Type B at the ready.
> Bill Dakin
> C&C25MKII
> S/V Tapestry
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.kxii.com/content/news/Highport-Marina-says-fire-started-from-man-pouring-out-gas-tank-436840283.html
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 11:52 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get 
>> through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom out 
>> through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is there a 
>> cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the berth and 
>> find that I have to remove the tank to get it clean. That's a job for the 
>> off season.
>> 
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> C&C 37/40+
>> Vancouver
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 37/40+ fuel tank clean out

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get 
through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom out 
through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is there a 
cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the berth and find 
that I have to remove the tank to get it clean. That's a job for the off 
season. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Zinc in heat exchanger, Yanmar 3JH2e

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I went through this when I first got my 37/40. Apparently the metallurgy of the 
exchanger precludes the need for zincs. In any case I've never found any on my 
3JH2E. 

Cheers, Al


> On Jun 27, 2017, at 5:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I think I know the answer to this question, but I just want to confirm.  On a 
> Yanmar 3JH2E, are there any sacrificial anodes in the heat exchanger or 
> anywhere else to replace?
> 
> I've checked the repair manual for the engine, but found nothing.
> 
> Just wanting to be sure...
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40+ holding tank

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks, Josh (I think). At least I know, now, what has to come off first. It 
seems like it might take some time. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Jun 25, 2017, at 8:21 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You pretty much nailed it.  The shower surround comes first.  Then disconnect 
> the water supply and drain hoses.  Remove all the screws followed by the 
> counter top.  I'll warn you that the vent is still set far back and not easy 
> to access even without the counter top.  You may need to make a second access 
> port in one of the cabinets - probably the left most cabinet, righthand side.
> 
> I had a leaking hand hole in the top of mine.  Then I found out that the 
> pickup tube for the pump out had become disconnected and I had to engineer a 
> new system.  While I was there I installed a new tank level monitoring system.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2017 7:32 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Has anyone on the list had to access their holding tank? My vent is plugged 
>> and I need to access at least one end. There is a small access port in the 
>> top of one of the vanity cupboards but that seems fairly useless as I can't 
>> see much in there and my hands don't really fit. To get to the tank top it 
>> looks like the sink and vanity top have to be removed which also involves 
>> the shower plexiglass and support. Any ideas before I disassemble my entire 
>> head?
>> 
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> C&C37/40+
>> Vancouver
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C&C 37/40+ holding tank

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Has anyone on the list had to access their holding tank? My vent is plugged and 
I need to access at least one end. There is a small access port in the top of 
one of the vanity cupboards but that seems fairly useless as I can't see much 
in there and my hands don't really fit. To get to the tank top it looks like 
the sink and vanity top have to be removed which also involves the shower 
plexiglass and support. Any ideas before I disassemble my entire head?

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C37/40+
Vancouver 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Bruce,
On my 1994 37/40+ there is an access port in the head bulkhead. This makes it 
easier to work on the raw water pump and starter. I don't know how you would 
access either without it. 
You might want to dress the face of the pump with a smooth flat file, just to 
remove a thigh spots that might be preventing the cover from solidly contacting 
the oring 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver 


> On Jun 7, 2017, at 7:42 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Note that you may also have an O ring or 2 on the shaft that the impeller 
> turns on that are on the engine side of the impeller. On my Beta, there were 
> 2 O rings between the impeller and the engine--these keep the water out of 
> the crankcase, etc.
> If these are bad or the shaft is 'scored', replacing impellers, or O rings on 
> the non-engine/impeller side of the shaft will not solve your problem.
>  
> In my case the shaft was 'scored' and I needed to replace the entire pump 
> assembly since the Beta shop could not reasonably remove the scoring.
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
> Oriental, NC
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Neil Gallagher 
> Sent: Wed, Jun 7, 2017 10:18 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> The issue with putting a gasket under the cover is that now the cover will be 
> moved away from the edge of the vanes of the impeller.  The pump works by 
> creating a vacuum in each space between the vanes at the inlet as the 
> impeller vanes open up and pressure when the vanes close down a the outlet.  
> The vanes need to contact the cover to create a seal, that's why an o-ring is 
> used, it keeps the cover in contact with the edge of the vanes.  Bottom line, 
> the gasket would have to be very thin not to affect the pump's performance.  
> 
> On some pumps you can buy a new cover as well as the gasket because the cover 
> wears, I'm not sure about the Yanmar.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> On 6/7/2017 8:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I replaced the impeller on a Yanmar 3JH2E about a month ago, and I was 
> checking over the engine last weekend and noticed some wetness coming through 
> around the impeller cover.  I tightened the cover bolts (they were not really 
> loose), and the leak still continues.  When I replaced the impeller, I also 
> replaced the o-ring, so that should not be the issue.  That said, the old 
> o-ring had a tear (the cover was leaking, though more so then).  The face of 
> the water pump was also a little rough, presumably from people prying  with 
> angled needle nose pliers in the process of removing the old impeller.  That 
> said, the cover itself was smooth, and the groove for the o-ring was fine as 
> well. 
> 
> I personally don't like the idea of relying on Yanmar's very thin o-ring for 
> sealing something that is below the water line.  I am thinking about getting 
> some thin cork gasket material, and cutting a proper gasket, applying teflon 
> grease to it, and using a gasket instead.
> 
> Is this a bad idea?
> 
> By the way, our boat is a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and the way the engine is mounted 
> in the boat, it is nearly impossible to get to the bolts to remove the water 
> pump, and even removing the starter is not exactly a fun job, again due to 
> poor access to mounting bolts. 
> 
> Thanks for your insights! 
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Does your through hull have an external strainer? That can get covered in 
marine growth causing a flow restriction at higher RPMs. 

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil, 37/40+


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Lewmar Coastline Hatch 70 Leak - Guidance Please?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

On my 94 37/40+ the forward hatch is an Ocean hatch. All the small ones are 
Coastline. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On May 2, 2017, at 6:20 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Our '94 C&C 37/40+ leaks a little bit through the aft center of our Lewmar 
> Coastline Hatch.  I think the problem is the seal, having reattached 2 out of 
> 3 broken friction levers and tightening down the screws going through the 
> plexiglass, and not seeing it leaking between the frame and the deck opening. 
>
> 
> Our little hatches don't leak at all, and they too, mostly had broken 
> friction levers and attachments (makes me wonder what the prior owner was 
> doing).  I have friction latches coming, and they are easily found here in 
> the states.  
> 
> I tried to order the seal, but the only place that supposedly had it in stock 
> turned out they didn't have it, and the seal has to come all the way from 
> England and they're saying it will be 4 weeks or more.  It seems like no one 
> really ends up having to replace the seals.
> 
> Can anyone give me guidance as to something I might be missing?  Is Lewmar 
> the only source for those seals?  Is there some way to, for example, 
> reinforce the seal to improve its sealing ability?
> 
> It's not the money, its the availability of the part that's driving me crazy. 
>  
> 
> Thanks for your help, 
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 3JH2E Oil fill.

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

On my Yanmar 3JH2E there is an oil fill cap on the top of the engine, which I 
use to add oil. There is another, lower down, in front of the injection pump. 
Are both for filling the crankcase lube oil?

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 30/40+
Vancouver 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37/40+ What does small switch on ceiling do?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

On my boat, the switch directly forward of the mast controls two lights, port 
and starboard of the mast.  

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Apr 30, 2017, at 6:30 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sorry, we don't have a switch there.  You'll likely have to trace the wires 
> and see.  Do your fluorescent lights above the plastic panels beside the mast 
> still work?  Perhaps it controls one of those?  Or an alternate night red 
> light up there that doesn't work now?
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> 
>> On 30 April 2017 at 10:13, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello all!
>> 
>> I'm guessing Josh or one of you other brilliant folks with 37/40+ C&Cs will 
>> be able to guide me.  There is a small switch above the table near the 
>> forward bulkhead.  I can't seem to figure out what it does.  Presumably it 
>> is for an overhead light, but I don't see anything that isn't already 
>> controlled by a switch, and the switch doesn't seem to do anything.
>> 
>> Insights please?
>> 
>> Kindest Regards,
>> 
>> Bruce
>> 847.404.5092
>> 
>> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I used a sharp chisel to shave the plexus off the gelcoat. The old glue was
still flexible enough that sanding didn't work well at all. It was a long
process as there was a lot of glueline to be cleaned. Quite a lot of
gelcoat came away with the plexi, which I filled and sanded flat. My plexi
was slightly oversized and it was a problem because of the bevelled inset.
I had to bevel the back of the plexi to open a channel for the Dow 795.

Al
SV Elendil
94 C&C 37/40+

On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 2:42 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Mark,
>  If you are going to use a smoke colored acrylic, you don't need to
> disguise the gelcoat damage with paint or anything else.  The darker
> acrylic will hide the damage completely.  I just faired the damaged gelcoat
> with and epoxy based fairing compound and sanded it flat.  I applied the
> VHB tape over the faired gelcoat. and it adhered fine.  I am into my second
> season with the new windows and they look terrific with no leaks.  If you
> have the old windows off, you have the worst part behind you.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 4:26 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Got my sheet of plexiglass for my window replacement.
>>
>> This weekend I started by removing 2 of the old surface mounted windows
>> to use a templates.  I used a small paint scraper/putty knife and a hammer
>> to split the bond between the plexi and the boat.  It wasn't painless - but
>> worked fairly well with I think minimal damage (I seem to recall a
>> suggestion from this list not to "pry" the window off but chisel all the
>> way around to minimize the gel coat damage).
>>
>> Now I'm wondering if there are any specific recommendations to clean up
>> the area before putting on the new windows?
>>
>> I'll need to scrape or sand off the remaining plexus and surface coat
>> over the damaged areas.  Don't think it needs to look pretty because it
>> will all be covered with the new dark plexi - plus I'll spray black on the
>> back of the plexi where it's going to be against the hull.  I'll try a
>> scraper and random orbital sander to get the plexus down - as long as I've
>> got a solid surface for the VHB tape to adhere.  For the damaged gel coat -
>> skim with some thickened epoxy and then some gel coat or just paint? Or
>> does it need any covering given it will be protected from UV by the
>> plexiglass?
>>
>> My plan is to cut the new windows about 1/2" larger all around to cover
>> any damage or discolouration.
>>
>> Any advice on how to get the remnant plexus off or best repair method is
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Mark
>> CS 30 - Prosecco
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1994 C&C 37/40+ Hatch Identification

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

On my 94 37/40+ the forward hatch is a size 70 Ocean hatch. I haven't figured 
out what the four small ones are but I think they're Coastline/Trimline size 
20. I'm getting prepared to replace some acrylic so I'm interested in what you 
discover. 

Alan Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC. 


> On Apr 18, 2017, at 6:44 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Before I order hatch friction latches, I'd like to make sure I have them 
> identified correctly.  I think they are Lewmar Ocean Series, and I I need 
> parts for the latches that are about 8" x 14".
> 
> Can anybody confirm my belief, and better yet tell me if you have any spare 
> parts before I order 2 latch assemblies?
> 
> Kindest Regards,
> 
> Bruce
> 847.404.5092
> 
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar diesel

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

My 3JH2E starts easily at idle. I didn't know about adjusting the throttle to 
start. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
1994 37/40+



> On Oct 9, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> +1 on that (same here)
>  
> Marek
> Perkins Perama M-20
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
> Maryann Read via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2016 11:59
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John and Maryann Read 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar diesel
>  
> Interesting – I have always put throttle a tad above slow idle and starts 
> just fine
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C&C 41

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I looked at that boat about three years ago, when it was for sale in Sydney BC. 
It was very nice with lots of new equipment. It sold very quickly and I 
thought, for a long time that I'd missed out on a good boat. I didn't do more 
than a quick once over but that boat looked good to me. Two years later I 
bought Elendil and I'm glad I waited. 

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37+


> On Jul 6, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Just wondering if anybody knows this boat (Defiant - 86 C&C 41)... Good 
> friend of mine (a current 35-1 owner) is seriously considering a trip to 
> Vancouver from Galveston to see it and I'm just trying to get some background 
> information... Any help is greatly appreciated...
> 
> 
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/C%26C-41-2984102/Mill-Bay/Canada#.V33C8awrKUl
> 
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

What thickness plexiglass did you use? The Plexiglas G spec. sheet shows 6mm 
(.236") then 9mm (.354") as the next step up. I'm getting ready to do this and 
am wondering "How thick?"

Cheers, Al


> On Jun 30, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Make sure you get cast acrylic, not extruded. The guy who cut my last windows 
> for me cheaped out and I think used extruded. Now I'm going to have to change 
> them out again in a year or two. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 29 June 2016 at 12:10, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I replaced the windows on my 29-2.  Had the tinted acrylic laser cut and 
>> beveled.   Much discussion of glue but the trick I used was running a jib 
>> sheet from the port to starboard through the cars and onto each winch 
>> pressing a 2x4 across the windows and tightening with winch.  Jerry
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jun 29, 2016, at 2:24 PM, johnr via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted 
>>> a site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing 
>>> material and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
>>> 
>>> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window 
>>> material and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> John McLaughlin
>>> Falcon
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fairing an elliptical rudder

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

It turns out the Kingston Museum has the drawings but, because they're moving, 
none of the information is available in the near future.

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37+


> On Jun 1, 2016, at 7:29 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Other than original build files or copies from the Kingston Museum, you might 
> try Computer Keels for the proper NACA chord shapes for various vertical 
> depths of your rudder. If the fore-aft distance is not much different from 
> top to bottom of your rudder, a single template at ~ $75 is all you should 
> need. They supplied templates for my centerboard trunk which my yard used to 
> do the fairing over 2 separate haul-outs. Did the forward half of the trunk 
> 1st and the next year did the aft section. Lots of lead removed/fiberglass 
> added but Water Phantom is faster and now reaches the same speed on either 
> tack--a good thing compared to before the fairing. YMMV since the rudder is a 
> relatively minor (compared to the keel) perturbation to the underwater 
> lift/flow.
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:55 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> I'm interested in templating and fairing my elliptical rudder on my 37+. 
>> Where might I find information on the lines of this rudder?
>> 
>> Cheers, Al
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

By "glue joint" I mean the overlap area created by the difference between the 
size of the widow and the size of the hole the window is covering. This area is 
narrow especially at the bottom of the window, 1/2" or so. The VHB tape is 1/2" 
wide, leaving no room for sealant. I could cut the tape to 1/4" leaving 1/4" 
for sealant but I'm wondering if that will be strong enough. I could make the 
window larger and thus the overlap larger as well but then I may have to bevel 
the plexiglass to fit the beveled recess in the cabin exterior. Of course l'd 
like to do it the easiest way that works well. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
1994 C&C 37+


> On Jun 7, 2016, at 11:27 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I just did mine too...
> 
> When you say "width of the glue joint is narrow" do you mean the horizontal 
> surface or the inner vertical surface..?
> 
> I put the VHB tape on the horizontal surface as close to the inner horizontal 
> edge (you can barely see it in the cabin) and a 795 bead in the space between 
> the tape and the 90 degree turn out to the vertical edge.   Pushed window on 
> and then filled the narrow remaining gap with 795.  Worked great.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Virus-free
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

The time has come to replace my cracked and leaking Windows on my 37+. I had 
planned on using 4991 tape and 795 silicone to attach the plexiglass. The 
problem is that the width of the glue joint is narrow, as little as 1/2 inch in 
some places. Should I make the plexiglass window larger to increase the joint 
width? The recess in the cabin side for the window is beveled and looks like it 
will accommodate a larger pane. Will I have to bevel the plexiglass to fit? Has 
anyone else had this issue?

Al Liles
SV Elendil
1994 C&C 37+


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fairing an elliptical rudder

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hi,
I'm interested in templating and fairing my elliptical rudder on my 37+. Where 
might I find information on the lines of this rudder?

Cheers, Al


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List icebox pump

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hi all, thanks again for the advice. My boat does have a switch on the bulkhead 
and pumps through the weird spigot into the sink. It's surprising how much you 
can miss when you're learning a new boat. 

Cheers, Al


> On Apr 27, 2016, at 6:39 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On  my 93 37/40 xl the ice box pump is located under the starboard saloon 
> seat, just forward of the sink.
> There is an additional switch next to the ice box on the bulkhead.
> It pumps to a pipe into the inboard sink
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Icebox pump

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the responses. I'm sure I can make it work now. 

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil
C&C 37+

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Icebox pump

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by 
switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it but 
it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the icebox so 
I thought I'd research it a bit before I started disassembling.
My first question is whether the pump should start when the breaker is switched 
on. Secondly, is the pump located at the bottom of the box or should I look 
elsewhere? Also, where do you suppose it discharges?

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil 
C&C 37+
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Searching the Photo Album archives

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I was accessing the archive from the cncphotoalbum site. There are no search 
tools there. The Mail-Archive site is news to me, so, again, the List succeeds.

Cheers, Al


> On Mar 13, 2016, at 7:39 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> There are 2 functions on the Photo Album for searching:
>  
> 1.  Enter your search word and press go.  This will search the Photo Album 
> for any articles containing your search word.
>  
> 2. Enter your search word and press go.  This will search our email list 
> archives for your search word.
> 
>  
> It doesn’t get much simpler than that.
>  
> Stu
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Gooseneck fitting - now searching cnc list archives

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I am amazed at how well this list works. Thanks to everyone who helps out. 

Cheers, Al


> On Mar 12, 2016, at 11:59 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Two methods.
> 
> 1. Go here and enter your search string in the search window at the top:  
> https://www.mail-archive.com/cnc-list@cnc-list.com/
> 
> 2.  Go to google and enter "cnc-list.com" plus your search string.  For 
> example, if you want posts about a rudder, enter "cnc-list.com rudder".
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Mar 12, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> On another note, is there a way to search subjects in the list archive? I'm 
>> sure this has come up before but I haven't found a way to retrieve the 
>> thread.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Gooseneck fitting

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Preparing to remove my rig, I found the gooseneck fitting (toggle?) worn around 
the vertical pin. Where might I source a new one. The boat is a '94 37/40+. I'm 
not sure of the manufacturer. 
On another note, is there a way to search subjects in the list archive? I'm 
sure this has come up before but I haven't found a way to retrieve the thread. 

Cheers, Al


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wetted surface area, 37+

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info. This list is the greatest. 

Cheers, Al


> On Mar 6, 2016, at 10:37 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> When I do Pegasus's bottom I use just under 2 gallons. 3 coats at waterline, 
> rudder, leading edge of keel, and 2 coatseeverywhere else. This will last me 
> 4-5 years here in the PNW. Oh and then only knock off the hard stuff. I leave 
> the slime to sluff off during cruising. 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
> 
> 
> ------ Original message--
> From: Alan Liles via CnC-List
> Date: Sun, Mar 6, 2016 10:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
> Cc: Alan Liles;
> Subject:Stus-List Wetted surface area, 37+
> 
> I'm preparing to paint the bottom of my 37+ for the first time (for me). The 
> first issue is "How much paint will be required?". I'll be using Micron CSC 
> and I'm hoping to get enough on that will last for two seasons. Cheers, 
> Al___Email 
> address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including 
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page 
> at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Wetted surface area, 37+

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I'm preparing to paint the bottom of my 37+ for the first time (for me). The 
first issue is "How much paint will be required?". I'll be using Micron CSC and 
I'm hoping to get enough on that will last for two seasons. 

Cheers, Al


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the edges. 
It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I tried it on 
the real windows.

Al
S.V. Elendil
37/40+


> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Plexiglass is very prone to developing cracks from any minor imperfections or 
> irregularities in the edges. If you carefully polish and buff the edges 
> completely smooth, cracks don't have a way to start themselves.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 3/4/2016 11:15 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:
>> Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant 
>> than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for 
>> windshields in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact 
>> resistant of the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too 
>> aggressive washing it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would 
>> lean toward the Lexan in that application. Both of my boats have long 
>> Plexiglass side windows, and both have one side that is cracked vertically 
>> more or less in the middle.
>> 
>> Steve Thomas
>> 
>>  Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  wrote: 
>> The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer
>> have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are
>> leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2
>> choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively
>> long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan
>> to use 3 M tape.
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the responses. I'll estimate it at 1 gph and call it good. 

Cheers, Al


> On Feb 18, 2016, at 7:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I use 0.67 gph when cruising my Landfall 38 with 2-blade prop & 3hmf engine.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
> 
>> On Feb 17, 2016, at 11:45 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I also use about 3/4 gph running 5-6 knots at 2000 rpm (or sometimes 
>> slightly less depending on the chop and wind conditions). 
>> 
>> I am running the original Universal M35 but, despite high mileage, it has 
>> been maintained well and runs efficiently. I have a 2 blade, feathering Max 
>> Prop.
>> 
>> Just as an aside, if the wind is pretty brisk and you can expect to be 
>> heeling at 20 degrees, and you should expect that if you have sails up and 
>> little crew, You should make sure you have more than 1/4 tank of fuel if you 
>> will be motorsailing (running the engine while sailing). If the fuel gets 
>> too low you run the risk of getting air in your fuel line when heeled and 
>> the engine could be impossible to restart until the system is bled. You can 
>> always remove and filter any fuel left in your tanks before you service them 
>> and re-add the fuel.
>> 
>> Tracy Hirsh
>> SV Ogopogo
>> C&C 37+ CB
>> Fairhope AL
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Fuel

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a round number for fuel usage in a 37+? Mine has a Yanmar  
3JH2E with a three blade Maxprop, pitch unknown. I need to move the boat to its 
new home and I have no idea how much fuel it will use. I don't want to just 
fill it up as I'm planning on some tank cleaning in the near future. An 
approximation will do as I will then add a safety factor. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37+


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

ZCC40088E394, so built May 93 but a 94 model? Oddly like the auto industry in 
the leeway between build dates and model years. 

Cheers, Al


> On Feb 11, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Very likely finished before the fire.  Your full hull number and can tell you 
> what month your build started.  The number on the transom that starts ZCC40 
> something...
> 
> Ours is ZCC37067C090 which translates as:
> 
> ZCC = the three letter code for C&C Yachts. The first three characters are a 
> MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the Coast Guard to the 
> manufacturer.
> 
> Characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the 
> manufacturer.  C&C used the first two of these to indicate the model (i.e. 
> boat length in feet) and the last three as serial number.
> 
> 37 = 37' long (yours will have a 40 here as they stopped pretending it was a 
> 37" boat after 1993)
> 
> 067 = Hull Number 67 of the series.
> 
> C0 = March of 1990
> 
> 90 = 1990 Model Year
> 
> http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 February 2016 at 00:07, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Yes, 1994. I know that the factory burned that year and I wonder if it was 
>> built before that or finished somewhere else. 
>> 
>> Al Liles 
>> SV Elendil 
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> 
>>> On Feb 10, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I also agree, great boat.  Elindil is a 1994 I think?  One of the newest 
>>> Canadian C&C's out there.
>>> 
>>> Congratulations.
>>> 
>>> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
>>> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
>>> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
>>> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>>> 
>>> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>>> 
>>>> On 10 February 2016 at 21:17, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> Al,
>>>>  It's a great boat!  Welcome.
>>>> Gary
>>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>>> '90 C&C 37+
>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>> 
>>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 8:09 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C&C 37/40+ Elendil out of 
>>>>> Victoria.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Cheers, Al
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ___
>>>>> 
>>>>> Email address:
>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> Email address:
>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

No, I'm bringing it to Vancouver when I can. 

Cheers, Al


> On Feb 10, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Congrats! Beautiful boat.
> 
> Going to keep it in Sidney?
> 
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
> 
> -----Original Message- From: Alan Liles via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Alan Liles
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list
> 
> Thanks for the warm welcome.
> 
> Cheers, Al
> 
> 
>> On Feb 10, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Congratulations!
>> Its a beautiful boat and you can look forward to lots of fast races and 
>> comfortable cruising alike!
>> 
>> Tracy Hirsh
>> Ogopogo
>> 1989 C&C 37+ CB
>> Fairhope AL
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks for the warm welcome. 

Cheers, Al


> On Feb 10, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Congratulations!
> Its a beautiful boat and you can look forward to lots of fast races and 
> comfortable cruising alike!
> 
> Tracy Hirsh
> Ogopogo
> 1989 C&C 37+ CB
> Fairhope AL
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Yes, 1994. I know that the factory burned that year and I wonder if it was 
built before that or finished somewhere else. 

Al Liles 
SV Elendil 
Victoria, BC


> On Feb 10, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I also agree, great boat.  Elindil is a 1994 I think?  One of the newest 
> Canadian C&C's out there.
> 
> Congratulations.
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> 
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
> 
>> On 10 February 2016 at 21:17, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Al,
>>  It's a great boat!  Welcome.
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 8:09 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C&C 37/40+ Elendil out of 
>>> Victoria.
>>> 
>>> Cheers, Al
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Post to list

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C&C 37/40+ Elendil out of Victoria. 

Cheers, Al


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Post to list

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hi all, I'm new to the list so I'll probably have a few screw ups. Anyway, I'm 
just finalizing a deal for a 37/40+ so I'll likely have a few questions arise. 

Cheers, Al


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Post to list

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

lilesal...@gmail.com

Cheers, Al


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com