Stus-List Recycled diesel fuel

[Eric Frank]

Is year-old diesel fuel worth using?  I had about 5 gallons of diesel fuel left 
in the tank over the winter.  Rather than just add to it, I pumped it out and 
am wondering if it is worth reusing.  I had treated it with biocide last year, 
and can easily filter it, but does it have some water absorbed into it and so 
should be discarded?  Some diesel additives claim to deal with water as well 
(see current issue of Practical Sailor), so is it sensible to treat it with 
that and then add it back to the tank?  Otherwise I need to find a proper place 
to dispose of it.  The engine runs fine, no problems, so there is no indication 
anything is wrong, but of course that doesn't mean the fuel is really suitable.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue

[Eric Frank]

Bruce,

I have a similar setup, but with a smaller solar panel, and initially ran into 
similar troubles.  It turned out to be helpful to install a solar charge 
regulator for each battery (house and starting); the output of each regulator 
is connected directly to the relevant battery - not through the off-1-2-both 
switch.  When not running the engine (i.e. most of the time) I have only one or 
the other battery connected (i.e. 1 or 2 but not both).  The solar panel output 
can be connected to the inputs of both regulators, but each regulator should go 
to only one battery.  

This has worked well for the last three years - both batteries stay fully 
charged as they are being charged separately all the time the boat is on its 
mooring.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 09:43:48 -0600 (MDT)
> From: BRUCE BOLTON 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue
> Message-ID: <876707633.43418433.1377531828779.JavaMail.root@cds015>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> I just installed two 100 watt Arenco panels through an MPPT controller ... 
> and it works very well, very happy with the output. I've got 320 amp hour AGM 
> house battery bank and a 120 amp hour starting battery connected through a 
> battery isolator switch (can keep them seperate or connect them into one big 
> bank). Link 20 monitor function for solar panels has been switch "on". 
> 
> The issue: I connected the controller output to the starting battery (because 
> of the size of the terminals on that battery), keept the battery isolator 
> switch in the "connect everything together" position and what happens is the 
> house bank shows charging via the solar panels, but the starting always shows 
> a discharge.  I don't know why ...  On a recent trip of a week without shore 
> power the solar panels almost keept up with demand (fridge/freezer on all the 
> time) maybe a minus 50 amps at the end of the trip on the house bank, while 
> the starting battery showed a minus 500 amps at the end of the trip!
> 
> I believe that this is simply a link monitor issue and that this is 
> (obviously) not reality.  Any Ideas on what can be done to get the link 
> indicating correctly would be appreciated. Perhaps when the battery banks are 
> not isolated the link then reads this as one bank only, and the starting one 
> is just recording the amount of power pulled from the bank over time ...
> 
> Thanks for any feedback!
> 
> Bruce Bolton
> C&C35III
> Apple Tree



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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Eric Frank]

Ron,
I had the same unit in Cat's Paw and a similar thing happened.  In my case, the 
drive motor turning the wheel would only turn one way, so of course the boat 
ended up in a tight circle.  Reversing the leads to the motor showed that the 
motor would turn in both directions, but the drive circuitry in the control 
would only get activated for one direction.

Raymarine said they did not repair these older units, and in the end I bought a 
new controller.  For these "newer" units, it is also necessary to buy a 
Raymarine "computer" to which the controller and the motor (and the fluxgate 
compass) are connected.  All told, it was about a $1000 purchase.

Check to see if the motor only turns one way, like mine did.  If so, then you 
will probably need to buy a new system, even though I am sure the drive 
circuitry could have been repaired by someone who knew how to do it.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 11:14:16 -0400
> From: Ron Kaye 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot
> 
> On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used
> this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard
> circles to starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the
> Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods,
> turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything
> short of "percussive maintenance" - which might actually have been a good
> idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue
> unless some internal mode got somehow switched.
> 
> I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there
> might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current
> standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive
> hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was)
> but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by
> Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a
> new controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any
> inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really should just be
> completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid
> that.
> Thanks for any help with this.
> 
> -- 
> Ron & Lisa
> To be Renamed
> 1986



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Stus-List re solar panels

[Eric Frank]

I agree with Bill on that.  A proper charge regulator for solar cells will do 
just that.  I have a similar arrangement that has been running for 5 years with 
a semi-flexible 20 watt solar panel over the forward hatch.  At first I just 
used one regulator, running the panel output to the two batteries through 
diodes so that one battery would not charge the other.  That's a mistake, 
because the voltage drop on the diode is about 0.4 V, so the charger thinks 
it's done before that batteries are fully charged.  So either use two 
one-battery regulators (I use the Morningstar ones and have had no problems in 
the 5 years) or one regulator with two separate outputs, as was mentioned 
earlier on this list topic.

The panel is now down to about 0.6 Amp max in bright sunlight (used to be about 
1.4 A) - apparently the panels age.  But it is still plenty to top up the 
batteries when I am not aboard (pretty much only weekends).

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 11:59:06 -0400
> From: Bill Bina 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar panels
> Message-ID: <5245ab4a.3040...@sbcglobal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> I have a single 20 watt (nominal) panel laying on top of my sliding 
> hatch. What it does, and does very well, is top up the charge of my 
> batteries during time when I am not on the boat to 100%, and hold them 
> there. Most people are never aware, but their batteries seldom get 
> charged that last 5-10% of capacity. Charging is far more complex than 
> just stuffing amps into the battery as fast as you can. Running the 
> engine for 20 minutes with batteries that are at 90% charge already, 
> won't do much at all. That last 5-10% requires a long slow charge to 
> achieve.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine autopilot problem

[Eric Frank]

I had the same problem.  Finally solved it by buying a new wheel unit on ebay.  
They are not sold separately by Raymarine, and you don't need a new control 
unit.  In my experience, it is worth taking apart as suggested by other 
listers, and a piece of shock cord can hold the lever in one position or the 
other.  But the new wheel units provide a more positive "click" in one position 
or the other, and you can adjust the clutch tension, but ultimately a new wheel 
unit solves the problem.  Not a great design in my opinion.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> On Sep 29, 2013, at 17:52, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
>> I had a problem with my autopilot today I could use some feedback on.  For 
>> the last few weeks, the lever that engages/disengages the autopilot would 
>> periodically release so that the autopilot ceased being able to turn the 
>> wheel.  Once engaged, it seemed to work fine, but the initial engagement 
>> seemed to not always stay locked in.  Today, as luck would have it, I was 
>> maneuvering in the 10 minutes before that start gun, engaged the pilot to 
>> make and adjustment forward, and could not get it to disengage.  The wheel 
>> was effectively locked so I could steer with the autopilot, but not by hand. 
>>  After futzing with it for a few minutes, (trying to not hit someone trying 
>> to start) I gave up, lowered the sails, threw out the anchor and proceeded 
>> to remove the unit from the wheel.  We only started a few minutes late, but 
>> it was annoying to say the least.  I have brought the unit home and I can 
>> see no way to get inside it to see if I can figure out what is going on with 
>> the connect/disconnect
> lever.  No disassembly instructions in the manual.  Is this a "send it back 
> to the factory", "throw it in the trash" or other solution?  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> 
>> David Knecht
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT

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Stus-List calculation of VMG upwind

[Eric Frank]

How is VMG upwind calculated? Earlier on this list, someone made the good point 
that VMG calculated to a waypoint (from GPS data) is not the best way, and my 
exploration of Google hits confirm that.  One should focus on VMG upwind.  But 
I am struggling to figure out how that is calculated.  To get true wind 
direction, the wind devices I am familiar with require input from GPS data, 
(usually RMC, which includes SOG and COG).  But they don't require knowledge of 
the orientation of the boat, i.e. HDG (on my boat, from the fluxgate compass 
connected to the Raymarine autopilot).  If the boat were really going in the 
direction it is pointed, then HDG would be the same as COG, so the calculation 
of VMG upwind would be straightforward.  But if the boat is not moving exactly 
in that direction (current, or (importantly) leeway because of heeling when 
going upwind), I don't understand how sufficient information is being sent to 
the wind device to make the calculation.  Wouldn't it be required to know the 
actual compass heading of the boat, so that could be compared to the COG?  Do 
higher-end wind devices also require input from the compass (which is not 
always exactly right in my experience). Google-searching so far has not 
provided an explanation, and my high school trig is so far in the past that I 
can't figure this out.  

Input welcome.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Wind based VMG - long and technical

[Eric Frank]

Dennis,

The best explanation I have seen.  Thanks so much.  Your suggestion of using 
WCV to a waypoint well upwind of the actual mark is excellent.  I will try it.

The only question I have is why the VMG based on AWA, AWS and BSP is not 
affected by leeway.  It seems to me that leeway should produce exactly the same 
effect as current.  But certainly not worth going on with this discussion on 
the list!

Thanks again!

Eric

Cat's Paw   C&C 35-2   Mattapoisett, MA


> Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2013 18:35:25 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Stus-List Wind based VMG - long and technical
> Message-ID:
>   <1381714525.92660.yahoomail...@web121906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Did some more scratching around on wind based VMG.? I hope I'm correct on all 
> this.? :)
> 
> 
> First, let's define some terms and abbreviations
> 
> 
>   * VMG - Velocity Made Good.? Velocity directly up or down wind
>   * WCV - Waypoint Closure Velocity.? Velocity towards a waypoint.? 
> (Shows on GPS as VMG)
> 
>   * TWA - True Wind Angle.? The angle of the boat to the true wind. 
> 
>   * TWS - True Wind Speed.? The speed of the wind across the water
> 
>   * AWA - Apparent Wind Angle.? The angle of the wind across the boat**
>   * AWS - Apparent Wind Speed.? The speed of the wind across the boat**
>   * BSP - Boat Speed.? The speed of the boat through the water**
> 
> Note: The only one of the above that requires a GPS is WCV.? The remainder 
> require either a wind sensor, a knot transducer or both.? The ones marked ** 
> are observed, the rest are calculated.
> 
> Also note that TWA should not be confused with true wind direction, a compass 
> bearing.? None of the above require a compass.? 
> 
> 
> The calculation of VMG is a bit obtuse.? 
> 
> 
> In order for your instrument system to calculate VMG it must first calculate 
> TWA.? It does this from BSP, AWA. and AWS (apparent wind speed).? It's vector 
> addition or trigonometry.? 
> 
> 
> Here is a decent explanation and calculator with diagrams.
> 
> http://www.sailingcourse.com/keelboat/true_wind_calculator.htm
> 
> Next, it calculates VMG.? Simply put,
> 
> VMG = BSP x cosine (TWA)
> 
> Here is another site which may help visualize it.
> 
> 
> http://lagoon-inside.com/2012/01/faster-thanks-to-the-vmg-concept/
> 
> Now, let's point out that VMG does not consider current.? It does, however, 
> contain leeway because of the apparent wind component.? 
> 
> 
> Now let's look at WCV.? Many GPS units display VMG.? This is really WCV.? It 
> is the velocity at which the boat is approaching the active waypoint set in 
> the GPS.? A stand alone GPS has no idea what the wind is and therefore can 
> not calculate wind based VMG.? WCV will work at the start of a race or 
> cruising leg, but will become less useful as the boat sails up the course.? 
> This becomes apparent as the boat approaches the windward or leeward laylines 
> and the racing mark has been set as the active waypoint.? As you approach the 
> laylines, WCV will tend to zero as you are sailing past the waypoint at a 90 
> degree angle and are no longer closing on the waypoint.? In fact, many GPS 
> units will display negative WCV once you have overstood the layline.? A 
> useful tool if you also have instruments that calculate VMG.
> 
> 
> So how do you use your GPS to approximate VMG for a windward/leeward race?? 
> Simple.? Before the race begins, turn head to wind and observe the true wind 
> direction.? Next, enter a waypoint in your GPS that is 20+ miles beyond, and 
> directly upwind of the windward turning mark.? 
> 
> 
> Now sail your race maximizing WCV.? In some ways, this may be better than 
> maximizing wind based VMG because it accounts for current.
> 
> Darn, my brain is tired.? I need to go chat with my friend Johnnie Walker.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List keep the prop shaft from turning

[Eric Frank]

I am changing the bellows on a PYI dripless "stuffing box" and need to keep the 
prop shaft from turning in order to loosen the bolts connecting the shaft to 
the transmission.  Putting the transmission in gear makes it harder to turn, 
but it is still not enough to keep it from turning so I can loosen the bolts.  
Obviously not specific to CC boats, but probably many people on this list know 
how to do this without damaging things.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI shaft seal

[Eric Frank]

Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on the 
universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out with an impact wrench.  Worked 
beautifully. But now I am stuck again getting the shaft coupling off the prop 
shaft.  Removed the bolts that grip the coupling to the shaft and also a 
square-headed bolt in the coupling that probably fits into a keyway in the 
shaft, but I can't break the shaft loose from the coupling.  I tried holding 
the coupling from turning with a pipe wrench and trying to turn the prop shaft 
(by gripping the sacrificial zinc on the shaft with a big vice grips so as not 
to damage the shaft itself), but it didn't budge.  And of course I don't want 
to damage anything.

One possibility would be to slide the shaft as far aft as possible (since it is 
disconnected from the universal and the SS PYI piece (that acts as the bearing 
up against the bellows) that is on the shaft slides forward on the shaft) and 
then get a small wheel puller on the coupling so it would push the shaft out of 
the coupling.  I have no experience with wheel pullers but it seems that it 
might work.

But I would really value input from the list about how to proceed.  Apparently 
the salt water leaking around the bellows this summer rusted the coupler 
sufficiently that it is really stuck.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Neverwet

[Eric Frank]

Shortly after this stuff was mentioned a year or so ago on this list, I 
happened to sit next to someone during a flight who worked on specialty 
coatings, so I asked him about it.  Obviously would be great to inhibit growth 
and also might make an extremely fast surface.  He said precisely what Pierre 
said - that all the coatings like that he knew about would slowly come off if 
submerged, even in fresh water and even faster in salt water.  So that is 
probably why we have not heard of coatings like this for bottom paint.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

On Nov 12, 2013, at 10:31 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: Pierre Tremblay 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Neverwet
> Message-ID:
>   <1384254535.14018.yahoomail...@web125203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> From?FAQ page:
> Can Rust-Oleum NeverWet be used on surfaces that are continuously submerged? 
> Rust-Oleum NeverWet relies on a layer of air to form the superhydrophobic 
> coating on the surface of the object. For this reason the product is not 
> recommended for surfaces continuously submerged in water or liquid.
> Pierre Tremblay
> Avalanche, CAN54988
> C&C38-3 WK, #076
> 
> De?: Tom B 
> ??: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Envoy? le : mardi 12 novembre 2013 4h03
> Objet?: Stus-List Neverwet
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty cool stuff. ?I wonder how this stuff would hold up in saltwater. 
> ?Propeller maybe or even as a bottom paint...who knows...
> 
> http://www.neverwet.com/
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 37+/40
> Vashon WA




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Re: Stus-List winterizing engine

[Eric Frank]

A possible simplification of Bill's Groco Strainer solution?

For the last couple of years I have just taken the lid off the Groco Strainer 
and poured in antifreeze as the water pump pumped it out.  Needs to stay full 
to avoid running the pump dry, but that is easy to do just by watching the 
level.  In a minute or so an entire gallon has gone through, I kill the engine 
and am done.  Is this procedure not good?

Eric Frank
Cat'sPaw

> Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 10:03:21 -0500
> From: "Bill Coleman" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine
> Message-ID: <02ff01cee14a$a98fb4c0$fcaf1e40$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I have seen that done, so it must work.
> 
> Two other suggestions, 
> 
> Replace your hose with a Silicone hose, ( I said I was a fan), these come
> right off and have no memory, kind of like me.
> 
> Or, What I did was buy an extra plastic lid for my Groco Strainer, the put a
> hole in the middle and put a hose adapter into it. Screw a short hose on it,
> then I poke a funnel into the hose.  I start my engine, go below and pour ?
> of a gallon of antifreeze then turn the engine off.  
> 
> 5 gallons, are you serial?  I don?t use that much to winterize my whole
> boat!
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> C&C 39 animated_favicon1


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Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows

[Eric Frank]

Jim - A great site.  Thanks so much.  He makes a strong case for not re-using 
the old coupling, and mine is certainly rusted. Would your suggestion be to let 
the yard finish the job?

On Nov 14, 2013, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: Jim Watts 
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows
>   on a PYI shaft seal
> 
> And now...the right way to do it:
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
> 
> "Maine Sail" has a whole gallery of how to do things right.
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
> 
> In my experience, he is dead on with every recommendation. I have found
> this to be the best source of accurate information for most projects, and
> he has lots of pictures, which helps a lot.
> 


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Re: Stus-List Hull numbers for other 35 MkII boats

[Eric Frank]

Dwight,

Cat's Paw is hull #  CCY352400174.  My father bought her used (I think from 
someone in Canada) in 1974.  Would that mean it is a 35 MKII, hull #40, with a 
certification date of January 1974?  If so, I wonder if in fact he bought her 
in 1976 - I'll have to check the old bill of sale when I get home.  Jim Watts 
suggests that CCY means she was built by Calder Building Co. in Arizona - or 
are you saying it could have been Canada?  Anyway, Cat's Paw is another one for 
your list.  In excellent shape, currently on the hard in Mattapoisett, MA.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: dwight veinot 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> C&C built 147 C&C 35 MKII's.
> 
> Lately there seems to have been a lot of 35 MKII owners showing up on this
> list.  My 35 MKII, Alianna, is an absolute delight in so many ways, pretty
> to look at, comfortable in heavy seas, fast, responsive, strong, well
> built...what else can I say.
> 
> If other 35 MKII owners would like to reply with contact information I will
> make a list so we can share some specific stuff about that C&C design in
> particular including points on how each of us make the boat go fast.
> 
> There were only 147 ever built and they are all about 40 years old now so
> please realize that we would be sharing info on an "antique".
> 
> 
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII

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Re: Stus-List Hull numbers for other 35 MkII boats

[Eric Frank]

Dwight,

How could there be only 147 MkII's if our HINs are in the 200's?  Is it that 
there are no distinctions between MkI, II and III in the numbering scheme? 
Where did you find out that only 147 MkII's were built?

Eric

> From: "dwight" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull numbers for other 35 MkII boats
> Message-ID: <9AB8351A3D0B4362AD594D69F43D0D02@your4dacd0ea75>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Eric
> 
> Cat's Paw is hull number 240 built in Jan 1974, mine is 242 built in Feb
> 1974.they were all built by C&C at NOTL.147 MKII's altogether.there are
> several around here that I have seen on the water but I don't think the
> owners communicate here 
>  _  
> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
>> Frank
>> Sent: November 28, 2013 12:12 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull numbers for other 35 MkII boats
>> 
>> Dwight,
>> 
>> Cat's Paw is hull #  CCY352400174.  My father bought her used (I think from
>> someone in Canada) in 1974.  Would that mean it is a 35 MKII, hull #40, with
>> a certification date of January 1974?  If so, I wonder if in fact he bought
>> her in 1976 - I'll have to check the old bill of sale when I get home.  Jim
>> Watts suggests that CCY means she was built by Calder Building Co. in
>> Arizona - or are you saying it could have been Canada?  Anyway, Cat's Paw is
>> another one for your list.  In excellent shape, currently on the hard in
>> Mattapoisett, MA.
>> 
>> Eric Frank
>> Cat's Paw
>> C&C 35 Mk II
>> Mattapoisett, MA
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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

[Eric Frank]

Tim,

Someone on this list suggested that when I was having trouble with the rusty 
bolts on the coupler between Cat's Paw's transmission and prop shaft.  It 
worked very well. But here's a question.  The ATF did not mix well with the 
acetone.  I could shake it up and make a suspension, like oil and vinegar in 
salad dressing, but then it separated out over the next couple of minutes.  So 
I poured on the suspension.  Does this mixture stay dissolved for others on the 
list? Is it important to use a particular brand of ATF (I went cheap)?

Eric Frank

On Nov 29, 2013, at 9:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: "Tim Sippel" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil
> Message-ID:
>   <694f055c6c52124ebfcd2c09b41d9c3f10044...@cl08mbc.rci.rogers.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I think I read Automatic transmission fluid mixed with Acetone ..
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh hear it is   http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/tech-tips/55/
> 
> 
> 
> Tim > 
> Toronto <http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/city.html?n=250>  
> 

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Re: Stus-List Garmin 50s connection to ST4000 and ST50

[Eric Frank]

Curtis,

I also have a Raymarine bridging device that goes both ways: NMEA 0183 to 
SeaTalk and back.  The newer Autohelm computers accept and transmit both 
Seatalk and 0183, so I no longer need it. You are welcome to it.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

From: Curtis 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin 50s connection to ST4000 and ST50 equipment

[image: E85001]

I do have one of these? Is this what you mean?

NMEA0183 and Seatalk1

Bridging Device


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Stus-List testing engine mounts

[Eric Frank]

Is there a good way to test the quality of the engine mounts while Cat's Paw is 
on the hard?  Last summer, I noticed that when the engine was at full throttle 
(about 3000 rpm), water appeared in the bilge.  Watching the dripless prop 
shaft seal while moving the throttle from mid-speed to full, I noticed water 
was spraying out between the carbon piece at the forward end of the bellows and 
the SS piece fixed to the shaft.  It seemed to me that the forward end of the 
bellows was moving forward (have to trust my memory here), and so the seal 
leaked.  Without analyzing this properly, I thought the bellows needed to be 
replaced, which is true, and I ordered a new dripless seal from PYI and am 
installing it.

But after a mention on this list about worn out engine mounts, I realize that 
probably the prop shaft and engine were also moving forward because of the 
strong thrust of the prop.  How else would the front of the bellows move 
forward?

Is there a good way of testing the integrity of the engine mounts while the 
boat is on the hard?  Obviously now is a good time to replace them if they are 
worn out.  Is there a way of trying to push the engine forward to see if I can 
reproduce what I think I saw?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 Autopilot

[Eric Frank]

Same result with the X-5 on my 35/2.  But I see the same behavior when I am 
steering myself:  it's so easy to keep on course going up wind or close 
reaching - the boat practically sails itself.  But on a broad reach or straight 
downwind, especially with waves, it takes constant attention.  So I forgive the 
autopilot for its similar behavior - would be embarrassing if it did much 
better than I can even when I am trying!

Eric

> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 Autopilot
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> I have an X-5 wheelpilot on my 35/3.  It is the predecessor to the current
> model.  Install was straightforward despite a 75 page manual.  Integration
> with my plotter was easy with NMEA 2000.  I did it with no help and no
> prior experience.  Total time was 12 hours, but if I had help (or fewer
> wires in my binnacle guard), I could have done it in less than 1/2 that
> time.
> It works great in a steady breeze, but on a broad reach in gusty conditions
> it has a hard time holding the course.  Probably more to do with sail trim
> and balance than any fault in the unit.
> 
> Joel
> 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 95, Issue 87

[Eric Frank]

The motor mounts on Cats Paw seem to be OK.  I took a crowbar and tried lifting 
the forward end of the engine under the mounts.  Could lift it about 0.5 inches 
but everything felt pretty solid, so I guess I will assume they are OK for now 
and go ahead with replacing the dripless shaft seal.  In any case, the mounts 
could be changed after the boat is in the water again, whereas the shaft seal 
needs to be done on the hard.

Any further advice from the list about testing motor mounts would of course be 
appreciated.  The engine is a Perkins diesel, 3 cylinder 30 hp installed about 
1980.

Eric
Cat's Paw 35-II


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Stus-List semi-flexible solar panels

[Eric Frank]

For the last several years (5?) I have been trickle-charging my starting and 
house batteries with a 20 watt semi-flexible solar panel from Spectra.  In the 
last year, its output has dropped to about 1/4 of the initial charge rate (used 
to be about 1.2 A in bright sun).  Reading reviews of these panels online, this 
failure seems to be rather common.  Does anyone on this list have experience 
with these panels or any other semi-flexible ones?  I have it mounted on the 
forward hatch, so it is very useful that it can be stepped on, but if there is 
a better one to replace it with, it would be great to hear about it.

Eric  Cat's Paw CC 35-II
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Stus-List methods of self-rescue?

[Eric Frank]

With the recent interest on this list-serve about inflatable vests and tethers, 
and the comments that going overboard when single-handed is unlikely to have a 
good outcome, I have been thinking about possible ways to improve the chances 
of self-rescue.  My father always trailed a 100 foot polypropylene line (so it 
would float) off the stern, with a knot at the end.  He hoped to be able to 
grab that and then haul himself back to the stern transom.  Of course a ladder 
off the stern would be crucial, which he did not have.  But as this list-serve 
has noted, it is very unlikely that one would be strong enough to pull along 
the line back to the boat unless the boat were nearly stationary.

Would it be possible to rig a drogue (sea anchor?) in a bag on the stern so 
that when you pull the line trailing off the stern, the drogue would deploy?  I 
have no experience using drogues or sea anchors, but are they capable of 
slowing the boat, with sails full, to a knot or two?  That might be slow enough 
to enable one to pull oneself back to the boat.  The stern ladder would also 
need a cord to pull so that it would fold down, and be deep enough so that 1 or 
2 steps would be underwater.  The larger drogues are 6 – 8 feet in diameter, so 
that might be sufficient.  One could also rig a trip line to the engine so if 
it were running, it would stop.

This idea must have occurred to many others, but I have never seen it proposed. 
 Obviously one would rig the drogue bag and stern line only when single handing 
– not racing.  But the bags I have seen for full-sized sea anchars are not 
huge, so it would not take up a lot of space behind the helmsman.  Has this 
been tried?  Do any of you have experience with deploying large drogues and 
seeing how slowly the boat moves?  If I had one, it would be interesting to try 
it out on a warm day and with plenty of help around.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Electrical issues up the mast

[Eric Frank]

Danny,

How did you do this test? "old wires" from a battery to the light, so not using 
the wires in the mast?  If so, then since the light is also dim now, my guess 
would be that the old wires were fine and the problem is in the light itself.  
Maybe in the socket or in the connections of the wires to the terminals on the 
socket? Possibly a bad bulb? (is it an LED?).  If you did go 20' up the mast, 
could you check the voltage on the wires connected to the socket?  If that is 
anything close to 12 volts, then the problem is in the lamp or the socket or 
the connection of the wires to the socket. Not in the mast wiring.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> you know, I did test before hand.  The mast head light worked as it should 
> but the steaming deck light was dim as it is nowI thought, "well it is 
> lighting and it
> must be this old wire I'm using to connect the battery to the leads sticking 
> out of the mast that is junk.  Man, I'm glad i ran those new wires"
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Edson Steering System

[Eric Frank]

This thread reminds me that I need some instruction in the use of the ET. It 
fits fine over the rudder post but then the Edson pedestal and wheel block its 
movement so I can only turn the tiller about 30 degrees.  No way would it be 
possible to come about.  If I had to use it, I would take off the wheel so I 
could turn it a bit more, but still it would hit the pedestal.  What am I doing 
wrong?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> In a  message dated 8/23/2012 12:42:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> _Joe.Della.Barba@ssa.gov_ (mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov)   writes:
> 
> 
> Before  I had an autopilot I used to use my emergency tiller whenever it 
> rained  because I could sit up under the dodger. It was fairly high effort 
> because  of having to turn the wheel along with the rudder, but I don?t 
> recall 
> it  being hard enough to need any kind ?rigging?. I did wish the tiller was 
> a  foot longer and had a hinge. 
> 
> Joe  Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List ST4000 wheel drive problem

[Eric Frank]

Hi Derek,

Don't get rid of the LCD control unit if that is still working.  You can buy a 
new wheel on ebay as another lister mentioned.  That's because when the LCD 
drive unit fails, you have to buy a new wheel, new fluxgate compass, new LCD 
monitor (which requires a bigger hole) and a "computer" that now is required.  
Total cost is about $1450, although I got it all from Defender for about $1000.

The wheel (a new gray one, which is perfectly compatible with your old display) 
costs about $400-500 US on ebay.  Raymarine won't fix the old display, so they 
make you buy an entirely new unit - the pieces are not available separately.  
So that's why you will see just the wheels and just the flux gate compasses on 
ebay.  I bought a new wheel on ebay when my old wheel failed (like yours) but 
then my LCD display failed this spring, so I had to buy the whole new package.  
I then had a brand new spare wheel and compass.  Because of all this, I bet you 
could sell a working but old LCD control unit for several hundred dollars.  I 
would have bought it in a flash.  The new unit certainly has more features and 
settings, and has accelerometers as well as the flux gate compass, but the old 
unit worked fine for my purposes.

Bill Walker, who wrote you about his similar problem, fixed his old wheel as he 
described, and it works fine.  I sent him my new wheel in response to his 
questions on the list (I had already replaced the old one with one I bought on 
ebay) and in return went sailing with him this summer.  A nice guy, and his 
repair has worked fine, so he hasn't used the wheel I gave him.  I would try 
fixing yours the way he describes.

Let me know if you need more information, but do contact Bill - very helpful 
guy.

Good luck,

Eric

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> On Sep 12, 2012, at 9:52 AM, Tortuga  wrote:
> 
>   During our last sail, the wheel drive for the Autohelm ST4000 on
> our 1979 30 mk1 stopped engaging. When I moved the drive lever into the
> engage position it seemed to not catch, although it stayed in position.
> The unit was clicking away but the wheel was not engaged.
>   I put a note on the Raymarine tech forum, asking whether I
> should take the wheel drive apart. I received a reply, asking "What
> color is the wheel drive, Black or Gray?" I replied that I thought it
> was black faded to dark gray.
>   I received another reply, "There is no adjustment on black wheel
> drives, and unfortunately no parts available any longer as well.
> Sometimes with those symptoms, changing the belt might help, again there
> are no parts available but there is a company…"
>   I took the wheel drive apart and found that the cam mechanism
> was rotating on the shaft connecting it to the drive lever Once there
> were 2 pins which passed through the cam and the shaft to prevent the
> cam from free-rotating. They had been worn down or snapped off. The
> remains were still lodged in the shaft. 
>   As a temporary fix, I cut 2 thin brads to length and shoved them
> through the cam and shaft, then placed them both back into the drive
> wheel assembly, jammed the wheel drive back together and put the drive
> lever back on. 
>   I haven't had a chance yet to try it out because of the winds
> and rain from Leslie.  
>   I have contacted CMC Electronics to ask about a replacement
> drive eccentric assembly. I was told someone there will call me back. 
>   My apologies if this has been discussed too many times before.
> Is it a common problem? What are my chances of finding a replacement
> assembly? 
> 
>   Thanks
>   Derek Kennedy
>   C&C 30 mk 1
>   Ballantyne's Cove, NS
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Re: Stus-List Choppy mooring tips

[Eric Frank]

James,

We did exactly the same thing after our steering cables were broken in the 
storm/hurricane last October.  I had thought the brake on the pedestal would be 
sufficient to hold the rudder, but the violent pitching and rolling caused the 
rudder to hit the stop and ruin the (albeit old) cables.  I was advised to lash 
the wheel, leaving the brake off, but decided to use the bungy cord on the 
wheel spokes (as you describe) around the base of the pedestal to provide a 
little give to the system.  No really heavy weather since then, so I don't know 
how it will fare, but seems OK.

To take all the strain off the cables and chain, one could mount the emergency 
tiller (easy to do on the 35 II) and lash it in place, leaving the steering 
brake completely off.  But I have not tried that yet.  Would be interested to 
hear other suggestions.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 10:27:24 -0400
> From: James Montague 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Choppy mooring tips
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> All - wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and what they did or
> do to alleviate the stress to the rudder/quadrant etc.
> We moor our C&C34 on the Hudson at pier 25 which typically has 3 ft swells
> rollin in caused by the ferry , cruise line and sightseeing traffic.  It is
> an ideal mooring as we live in downtown Manhattan but the boat she takes a
> pounding as you can imagine.
> 
> We have used a whole manor of techniques to avoid the "chonking"  from
> below, currently we use a bungy chord on the wheel to allow the rudder and
> qudrant to move and brake slowly.  It seems to work, wondering if there are
> unintended consequences in doing that.
> 
> Any hep advice very much appreciated.
> 
> James Montague  C&C 34
> -


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List chart plotter/radar

[Eric Frank]

Hi Danny,

I agree with the other comments that a 12" screen right in front of your face 
is not great.  Blocks your view forward.  I find the 7" fine.  But a bigger 
screen is great for laying out a course or looking at things in more detail.  
For that, I take the output from the chart plotter into a laptop which I keep 
below (mine is on the top of the icebox, out of the way of splashes, falling 
off the nav table and out of the sunlight).  In addition to the larger screen, 
a big advantage is that many of the nav programs allow the use of the NOAA 
raster charts, which are free and also provide a level of detail not present 
when zoomed out on the vector charts.  And of course the updates are free, 
every year.  The chartplotter at the helm is great for keeping the boat going 
in the right direction, and the breadcrumb trail for getting back to where you 
started from, but the computer nav programs make it easy to set up a course 
with waypoints, see the big picture just like with a paper chart, and then zoom 
in when you need the detail.  Other members of this list serve can advice about 
lots of different program options and computers - I use an old MacAir and 
MacENC (which is always updated for free - I started using it in 2005, have it 
installed legally on multiple computers, and never have paid any more than the 
original purchase) but I'm sure there are excellent programs for the PC as 
well.  If your laptop can establish a local wifi hotspot (Macs do this and 
probably PC's as well) you can take the USB data coming into the laptop (with a 
serial to USB converter) and rebroadcast it over your wifi hotspot so you can 
pick it up on an iPad.  MacENC makes this easy - I don't know about other nav 
programs.

Eric

Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA
 
On Sep 24, 2012, at 8:58 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:36:16 GMT
> From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar
> Message-ID: <20120924.163616.993...@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Hello again, Does anyone have any comments about the Standard Horizon Cp590. 
> It is a 12" chart-plotter and can be had for $1425...bigger is better the 
> Standard Horizon Cp390i is a 7" version and can be had for under $800 
> DannyLolita1973 Viking 33South Coast, MA
> 

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Stus-List chartplotter/radar

[Eric Frank]

Bob - I think Fred is right.  I looked through the Octopus installation manual 
you referenced, and they discuss three different controller/computer options. 
The only one I know is Raymarine - expensive, and I think you will need to buy 
it with the wheel drive or rudder drive part included (which you can then try 
to sell on ebay) but it works well.

Eric

Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 09:53:21 -0500
> From: Frederick G
> Street 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List chartplotter/radar
> Message-ID: <53481220-ca35-4da2-8a5b-a2aa97221...@postaudio.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Bob -- I doubt the SiTex is built as an autopilot drive; it'll provide the 
> course data to an autopilot, but you need an autopilot computer to actually 
> power the drive unit.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Sep 28, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Bob Moriarty wrote:
> 
>> The SiTex EC7 seems like a good value.
>> I have neither a chartplotter nor an autopilot on Ox (33-1).
>> Would anyone know if some sort of extra component (an "autopilot
>> junction box"?) would be needed to connect the SiTex chartplotter to
>> an Octopus RS Sailboat Drive unit?
>> 
>> SiTex Installation manual - see page 107
>> http://www.si-tex.com/product_manuals/EC-Plotters.pdf
>> 
>> Octopus installation manual - see page 19:
>> http://www.octopusmarine.ca/content/products-and-services/mechanical-drive-units.htm
>> 
>> Also, it would be nice to setup a camera on the bow rail or masthead,
>> gimballed(?) in some way to always point at the leeward forward
>> quarter so you could see what's behind your headsail via the
>> chartplotter's video display.



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Re: Stus-List winter covers

[Eric Frank]

Martin,

I have used PVC frames and a heavy-duty tarp for several years now (after 5 
years, I am on the second tarp).  With the mast left in, I run 2 1X4s along the 
top of the boom, bolted together just forward of the mast, and rest them on top 
of the SS framework of the bimini aft. The 1X4's therefore go all the way to 
the stern transom.  If I take out the mast, I use a 4X4 in place of the mast to 
hold up the forward end of the 1X4's and the boom is gone.  The framework is 
made of 1/2 inch PCV pipes bent over the 1X4's using PVC T's to join them 
together at the boom.  Also, to keep the fore-aft spacing of these supports 
fixed, they are T'd into short lengths of PVC pipe running along the boom.  I 
use 7 of these PVC supports along the boom, from the mast back to just over the 
stern (i.e. beyond the end of the boom).  The free ends of the PVC pipes (away 
from the boom) go over the lifelines and terminate in PVC T's to make it easy 
to tie them down over the side of the boat and under the hull, making a rigid 
curved framework.  I cover this with a heavy-duty tarp (that's important - 
light-weight ones wear out quickly at the stress points), tied at the mast, 
over the life lines (the stanchion tops need to be [padded to avoid tearing the 
tarp) and then  lashed to the ends of the PVC pipes.  Beginning last year, I 
disconnected the after shrouds so the tarp could run straight across the boat 
at the foreword end (suggested on this list last fall). I don't glue the PVC 
pipes into the T's used over the boom so they aren't so long to store during 
the sailing season.
The PVC pipes do crack occasionally - usually I need to replace 1 or 2 
each season but they are cheap.  This arrangement remains open fore and aft. 
which keeps the cabin from becoming very humid (like when I had Cat's Paw 
shrink wrapped). The snow is kept out of the cockpit, so the cockpit drains 
don't ice up. The PVC pipes keep the tarp from touching the hull, as they 
extend beyond the tarp.  An advantage of keeping the foredeck open is that the 
solar panel I installed on the foreword hatch stay exposed, so the batteries 
stay trickle charged all winter.  I get into the boat either on the foredeck, 
where it is open, or over the stern transom.
It takes me about 2 hours to install this in late fall, but is now 
pretty routine.  Taking it apart in the spring is easy.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Martin DeYoung 
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 4:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter covers
> 
> What has been the experience with PVC pipe frames?
> 
> Calypso is in the PNW where more than a few inches of snow is rare.  I will 
> be erecting a cover to allow some deck work this winter.  I am considering 
> PVC pipe frames and high quality tarps as the best compromise between cost 
> and longevity (1 to 2 PNW Nov to March seasons).
> 
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1970 C&C 43
> Seattle
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Re: Stus-List water pump impellers

[Eric Frank]

Not quite related to Rich's comment, but close.  After hauling this fall, I 
took out the raw water impeller after running antifreeze through the system as 
has been well described on this list.  I would like to run the engine to warm 
it up before changing the oil and filters.  The fresh water cooling system will 
cool the engine fine until it is warm, but will I damage the exhaust system by 
not cooling the exhaust with the "raw" water?  It will probably take 5 minutes 
or so of running to warm up the engine oil.  

Also, last spring I replaced the impeller with a 10 bladed one, whereas the 
ones I have used before have only 6 (I think) blades.  Any reason to favor one 
over the other?  It seemed to work fine.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Harking back to a discussion a few weeks back about raw water pump impellers, 
> I ran into another one yesterday on an overheating 4kW genset that looked 
> perfect but had the brass drive hub separate from the rubber vanes. So, if 
> you are trying to decide whether or not to replace an impeller, I suggest 
> including in your examination an attempt to rotate the vanes on the hub. The 
> unit looked pretty serviceable other than that.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.

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Stus-List missing sail track?

[Eric Frank]

When I was having measurements taken for a new mainsail, the sailmaker 
commented that the sail track on my 1972 CC 35 mk2 begins nearly a foot above 
the boom. The sail track is obviously cast into the aluminum mast, but has been 
machined away so it begins well above the boom.  I had always assumed that was 
normal, but the sailmaker commented that it made it more difficult to set a 
reef.  The cringle for the reef point at the tack does not go low enough to go 
over the hook at the forward end of the boom, so I always need to use a short 
length of line to make this connection.  If the sail track were lower, the 
slides on the sail would be lower so this connection could be made without the 
line.  The other nuisance of having all the track slides so high is that it is 
hard to reach all the way to the head of the sail to attach and detach the main 
halyard, and to pull the sail cover over the head of the sail.

Is it standard on CC's of this vintage to have the sail track start so high?  
Would it be OK just to leave the bottom 2 or 3 sail slides not in the track, so 
the furled sail would be lower and the reef point could be connected directly 
to the cunningham hook (is that the name of it?).  Or should I look into the 
possibility of having a short length of sail track machined and bolt it into 
the flat of the mast between the boom and the bottom of the existing track, 
leaving just enough room to feed the sail slides into the track when bending on 
the mainsail?

Suggestions welcome.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List headliner bump

[Eric Frank]

Dennis,

I have one on my 1974 35-2, and it is exactly what Rus guesses.  Mounted on the 
flat on deck is a horizontal block that leads a line aft to the coach roof just 
forward of the cockpit.  I have one on each side of the boat.  One I use for a 
spin halyard, the other for the main sheet.  On Cat's Paw, the headliner is cut 
and covered, just as Rus suggests, which hides the backing plate and nuts.

Eric
Cat's Paw

On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:29 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2012 15:15:01 -0800
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: j...@dellabarba.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump
> Message-ID:
>   <20121202231521.KDU1732.priv-edtnes25.telusplanet.net@edtncm04>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Hi Dennis,
> 
> I have one.
> The flat surface is the same elevation as the 
> handrail landing(s). On deck there is a 
> corresponding round spot with no non-skid. It 
> looks like the option was to mount a spring 
> supported turning block there to lead a control 
> line aft. I believe it would have been cut & 
> cover'd for nut & backing plate access.
> 
> I have no idea which optional control line it was 
> intended for and I have forgotten who I lent my 
> book "Sail Power" to, so I'm missing that bit of 
> 70s reference. I know, it sucks!
> 
> Cheers, Rus
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> east side, Vancouver Isd... and recently 
> re-subscribed after a couple o' weeks in France 
> so I'm a bit outta touch on list matters
> 
> 
> At 02:08 PM 30/11/2012, you wrote:
>> I'll see if I have one.
>> 
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> j...@dellabarba.com
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
>> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2012 8:50 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump
>> 
>> On my 35-1 there is a molded protrusion in the headliner at the port forward
>> corner of the midships hatch. It's about 3 inches square.  There is nothing
>> on the deck above it.
>> 
>> I've always wondered what it was for.  Any ideas?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touch? 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 

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Stus-List suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb

[Eric Frank]

A 3/4 inch plastic barbed hose adaptor is screwed into the brass thru hull gate 
valve for the water inlet to the head. I want to replace the hose barb with 
another one, but can't unscrew it from the thru hull valve.  Teflon tape shows 
on the plastic threads of the barb so I expected it would be an easy job to 
unscrew it, but so far I can't move it.  Tried a heat gun on low heat but 
didn't help.  Any ideas what to try? - obviously I don't want to break the 
plastic fitting and end up with the threaded portion stuck in the gate valve.

Eric
Cat's Paw, 35-2
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb

[Eric Frank]

Ken ( and later contributors),

Sorry, my mistake in terminology.  It's not a gate valve.  A bronze ball 
seacock - seems to be in good shape.  Still turns easily and definitely turns 
on and off.  Danny - thanks for the input on how to remove the plastic hose 
barb.  I'll try it.

Eric

Cat's Paw, 35-2
Mattapoisett, MA

On Dec 3, 2012, at 10:15 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2012 10:03:40 -0400
> From: Ken Heaton 
> To: cnc-list 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> And there is the question as to why you would want to keep the existing
> thru hull if it is really a gate valve.  An old gate valve is very unlikely
> to actually shut off if you try to close it and if you do get it to close
> it probably won't open again, usually the stem snaps off inside
> leaving the gate stuck shut.
> 
> Time to get the Marelon Catalogue out...
> 
> http://www.forespar.com/marelon-marine-boat-plumbing.shtml
> 
> If it isn't a gate valve but is a proper sea-cock, carry on.
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin

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Re: Stus-List Mast Gates

[Eric Frank]

Based on a suggestion to my inquiry on this list about mast track extensions 
for my CC 35 MkII, I contacted Mastgate.com and since then have had very 
positive interactions with the person who makes the tracks (and I think owns 
the company).  His name is Tom Luque.  My CC 35 has track slides, not slugs, 
and most of the pictures on Tom's website are for extensions for boats with 
slugs.  However, he took on my request - I sent him detailed sketches of the 
mast cross section and he has already made 3 or 4 prototypes.  Cat's Paw has a 
space below the end of the track of about 11 inches  before the boom, 
presumably for the old main roller reefing.  The track slide, cast into the 
mast, looks like it was machined off to make space for the rolled up main.

The first prototypes were made of SS ( .018 inch SS-316) tracks that are a 
single piece which Tom then spot welds onto a back plate which would screw to 
the mast.  My concern with that design is that the track slides would have to 
jump up over two thicknesses of SS (the back plate and the middle portion of 
the track) when crossing over from the existing track to the extension.  He 
sent me the pieces to try, but I have not yet had a chance to try them on Cat's 
Paw.

The newest option, which looks best to me, is an extension made of two pieces 
of SS (same stock), one for each side of the track.  The total width is 1.5 
inches, which is the width of the machined flat on the mast below the bottom of 
the existing track.  Tom has fabricated two sides, each about 7.5 inches long, 
that can be screwed into the machined flat on the mast and are spaced to allow 
the track slides to move easily across the junction between the existing track 
and the extension.  Apparently it is difficult for Tom to construct tracks 
longer than 7.5 inches, but he could make another shorter extension if one 
wants the track to extend all the way to the boom.  That prototype (which I 
hope is the final one we adopt) is in the mail - I will let the list know how 
it works.

In any case, Tom is very responsive, and the quality of his constructions 
appears to be high.  FYI, I have no financial interest in this - just passing 
along my impressions of the company and its ability to construct good 
extensions tailored for our specific requirements.

Eric

Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Gates
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Alan,
> 
> I know size matters, but my gate is probably half the size of yours, and we
> have the same boat.  Bummer!
> I have a double gate.  The hard part is getting the two pieces close enough
> that I don't yank out the slides.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> On Fri, Dec 21, 2012 at 11:29 AM, Alan Bergen wrote:
> 
>> Frank:
>> 
>> It looks like the largest boat that it's been used on is a 27' (Ericson
>> and Pearson).  The gate opening on our boats is so large (mine is about
>> eighteen inches long), that I doubt it would work.  Why not check with the
>> manufacturer, and let us know what you find out.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 




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Re: Stus-List Prop Mussel Farm

[Eric Frank]

Bob,

I have used the Petit product (Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier)  for the last couple 
of years here in Buzzard's Bay, MA with mixed results.  As others report, I 
sanded the prop down to very clean bronze and then applied 3 coats of the zinc 
paint from the spray can.  I did wait about 2 weeks after painting before 
launching.  In the fall, the prop was covered with barnacles.  So last spring I 
scrapped off all the barnacles but did not sand off all the old paint and then 
did a triple spray again, but only a few days before launch.  On top of that I 
smeared a very viscous lanolin, based on the discussions on the list, and 
smoothed it out with a hot air gun. This fall, the boat emerged from a full 
season in the water with virtually no barnacles on the prop or the hull (which 
was painted with a new layer of Micron 66).  So I attributed the difference to 
the lanolin, which seemed to be still present on the prop, as it feels slightly 
greasy.  True, the engine is hardly used at all because we are on a mooring and 
usually don't use it much at all unless the wind dies.

So it is interesting that Danny, only a few miles away, saw no growth with just 
a bronze prop. - no paint or grease.  It seems very difficult to generalize 
from the very different reports.

Eric
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 14:54:48 -0400
> From: Robert Abbott 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Prop Mussel Farm
> Message-ID: <50eb19f8.5080...@eastlink.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> The topic is back.last year, in an attempt to inhibit the growth of 
> mussels on the prop and prop shaft, I coated them with lanolin.was 
> told or read this would help.  When the boat was hauled in October, the 
> prop/shaft were completely encased in mussels, again.  The growth has a 
> noticeable, negative effect on the performance of the prop later in the 
> season e.g.  higher RPM's to attain same cruising speed when motoring.  
> After trying a few so called 'remedies', I am now convinced the only 
> effective way to keep the prop free of marine growth (mussels on mine) 
> is to dive a few times a season and physically remove them.  Maybe I 
> need a few pounds of lead, my safety harness on and tethered to the 
> toerail and a few feet of hose the top end tied to the pushpit and me 
> breathing from the bottom end.
> 
> However, before I comtemplated something like that, there is one more 
> 'remedy' I have heard/read about..it involves coating the prop/shaft 
> with "galvanized zinc spray paint".   I have never seen this done and do 
> not know what effect it might have on the bronze prop (shouldn't be 
> negative but I'm not sure).  There is never any marine growth on my 
> sacrificial zinc(s).
> 
> Has anyone heard of this?  Anyone with any experience with this paint on 
> props?
> 
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.




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Stus-List Adjusting wire tension in Edson steering systems

[Eric Frank]

Inspecting and lubricating the cables below the cockpit on my Edson steering 
system (radial quadrant on the rudder post located aft of the pedestal), the 
cables appear to be rather loose.  Where do I take up the tension in this wire? 
 Can it be done from the top of the pedestal with the compass removed, or do I 
need to adjust the wires directly, groping around under the cockpit from the 
port cockpit locker? The Edson EB381Steering Guide describes the installation 
and says to adjust the tension, but doesn't appear to say how this is done.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Adjusting wire tension in Edson stering

[Eric Frank]

Chuck,

I wish the 35-2 had that access port through the cockpit floor.  Unfortunately 
it does not.  Worse, the cables are terminated with U-bolts on the wire, so it 
will require loosening the U bolts (two of them) then pulling the wire tight 
and then retightening the U-bolts.  Probably done when my yard folks redid the 
steering on Cat's Paw after Irene in 2010, when the cables broke.  I think this 
is probably a job for them, as trying to reach the quadrant from the port 
lazarette is really hard.

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

On Jan 13, 2013, at 7:42 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Dwight, 
> That's probably true for yours. 
> 
> Our 1990 34R has a quadrant on the rudder post and lives under a section of 
> Cockpit floor that lifts out. The cable is terminated with an eybolt captured 
> by a thimbled eye and three cable saddles. The two SS eyebolts are pushed 
> through the quadrant casting and double nutted. The cable goes around the 
> outer edge of the quadrant and thru a slot in the back edge and underneath. 
> The eyebolts penetrate holes in the casting so the adjustment is made on top 
> very easily. I try to follow Edson's maintenance recomendations. 
> 
> 
> Chuck 
> Resolute 
> 1990 C&C 34R 
> Atlantic City, NJ 

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Re: Stus-List Sextant

[Eric Frank]

Joe,

I also used a sextant on a transatlantic sail with my father in 1972, from 
Annapolis to the Azores in a 43' Sparkman-Stevens yawl.  We did have the 
then-current LORAN, which required superimposing traces on an oscilloscope from 
the two stations.  That worked until we were about 100 miles into the Atlantic, 
and gave me a couple of days to practice with the sextant, having never had the 
opportunity to try it except with an artificial horizon.  We did only sunsights 
(the math for the moon sights seemed very complicated, and I had trouble 
identifying the stars) and restricted them to local apparent noon (gives you 
latitude with no need for time) and when the sun was due east or west 
(longitude, but you do need the time). My father had an Accutron (remember? 
with the tuning fork?) watch and we also had a SSB radio and talked nearly 
daily with our ham radio club in Bethesda, MD.  They would tune in WWV so we 
could check his watch, which was more accurate than my sunsights.  I was very 
surprised that with little practice it was fairly easy to get fixes that agreed 
within about a mile to the LORAN, and that was adequate to get us first to 
Bermuda and then to the Azores.  As you mention, once we got within 20 miles or 
so, we could use the radio beacon to get a crude direction to our destination. 

As pointed out by an earlier poster, it was quite common in Norway (and maybe 
Britain?) before accurate time pieces were invented to sail up or down the 
coast until reaching the latitude of your destination and then just sailing due 
east, keeping the latitude constant.

Eric Frank
Cat'sPaw

> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sextant
> Message-ID:
>   <1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a7185a036...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> We used a sextant to find Bermuda in 1980 and it was a major PITA. In rough 
> seas on a small boat getting any accuracy beyond maybe +/- 15 miles is doing 
> very well. Just taking the sight and not falling overboard or dropping the 
> sextant was an accomplishment. We ended up running a latitude line north of 
> the island until we picked up the radio beacon on the RDF and followed that 
> in.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina

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Stus-List electronic charts for the BVI

[Eric Frank]

I am looking for electronic charts for the BVI.  Most useful would be ones that 
work for the Mac programs MacENC or GPSNavX, but I could entertain other 
possibilities if that is not available.  Navionics seems to cover the BVI only 
as part of an entire array of charts for South America (pricey) and I don't 
find any raster charts available.  Any suggestions? or would be happy to 
purchase these second hand if anyone has them and they could be installed by a 
second user.

Thanks,
Eric

Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List DMK wifi

[Eric Frank]

Another system is the Miniplex2-Wifi by ShipModul.  I have used their 


From: "r...@fvprovidian.net" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List DMK WiFi
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

I installed the DMK system on my boat last year and love it.  The advantages of 
it over other systems are 1. 3 wifi outputs (Simultaneously) 2. Very good tech 
support (the owner) 3. It just works 4. very mac friendly.  The first thing to 
do is get iRegatta and NavX. They work well with this system.  I have pics of 
it installed on Flicker "scapa c&c 34r". 


Ryan Raber
Falmouth, Maine
Scapa 
C&C 34r #9
1990

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Re: Stus-List DMK wifi

[Eric Frank]

Another system is the Miniplex2-Wifi by ShipModul.  I have used their hardwired 
Miniplex system (Miniplex-Lite) for several years.  That connects to the 
computer via a USB connection.  But I wanted a wifi connection to my laptop (or 
iPad) and so have replaced it with their wifi unit. The new wifi module still 
has the USB connection to the computer that is in the old system (I like that 
for reliability in case the wifi should fail) but also provides a wifi 
connection that combines all the inputs (4 separate ones).  One of these inputs 
can receive SeaTalk data and AIS data but the others are limited to NEMA 0183, 
not 2000 (unlike the DMK).  A nice feature of the ShipModul system is that one 
can configure the inputs to take only those sentences that you want, and the 
two hardwired NMEA outputs (to instruments like the autopilot and the 
chartplotter at the helm) can also be configured to send out only those 
sentences you choose.  The module also can accept multiple inputs with similar 
data (I have an old chartplotter I keep running as well as the new one at the 
helm), and if one of them fails the unit automatically switches to the other 
data source.  Finally, you don't need to buy a separate navigation program - 
just use the one you already have.  I use iNavX on the iPad or MacENC on an 
Airbook (I like the bigger screen).

I have found support to be excellent (by email - they are in Holland) and the 
old unit has had no problems in the 4 years I have had it.

COI - I have no connections with the company.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II

> From: "r...@fvprovidian.net" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List DMK WiFi
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> I installed the DMK system on my boat last year and love it.  The advantages 
> of it over other systems are 1. 3 wifi outputs (Simultaneously) 2. Very good 
> tech support (the owner) 3. It just works 4. very mac friendly.  The first 
> thing to do is get iRegatta and NavX. They work well with this system.  I 
> have pics of it installed on Flicker "scapa c&c 34r". 
> 
> 
> Ryan Raber
> Falmouth, Maine
> Scapa 
> C&C 34r #9
> 1990
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List wet egg crate voids...

[Eric Frank]

Jake,
  My 35-2 also has a cast aluminum block supporting the mast. I can't tell what 
the block is sitting on so will be interested in your pictures.  Most of the 
water that collects in the bilge seems to come down the mast (or leaking around 
the partner?), so I drilled two limber holes in the ridges in the block aft of 
where the mast sits.  Now the water coming down (or around?) the mast drains 
back into the bilge.
  Does anyone know what the aluminum block is sitting on?  Looks like it is at 
least covered in epoxied fiberglass but of course could be wood under that.  No 
evidence that the block has settled, though.

Eric  C&C35-2

> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet egg crate voids...
> Message-ID: <092201ce3006$e0689390$a139bab0$@cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Joel,
> I know where you're drilling.  I may not be able to get there because I have
> a HUGE ALUMINUM PLATE under my mast.  It covers the stringer and two cross
> members.  I'll have to dig into my old pics to see what's under it.
> Jake

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Re: Stus-List toe rail leak

[Eric Frank]

Richard,

For several years I thought I had a toe rail leak. CC35-II.  Water accumulated 
in the port locker under the aft seat of the settee. Turned out it was a leak 
in the slides of the hatch cover, where the slides screw into the coach roof.  
Rain water would leak down through the screw holes and then run down above the 
cabin roof liner over to the port side, then down the hull wall into the seat 
locker.  Took that all apart last winter, cleaned things up and reattached it 
with the butyl tape the list-serve had recommended for seating deck fittings.  
This completely cured water accumulation in the locker.

You can test directly for a leak in the toe rail by heeling the boat over until 
the rail is under water.  Then taste the water in the locker for salt.  Oops! 
That won't work in Lake Champlain.  But you can see if that increases the water 
in the locker.  For me, there was always water after a heavy rain.  Maybe try 
hosing down the hatch cover with lots of water?

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

On Apr 11, 2013, at 6:38 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
> H. Bernstein
> Sent: April 11, 2013 7:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List toe rail leak
> 
> I'm sure this issue has been beaten to death somewhere, but I'm a  
> newbie to the list, having moved up from a C&C29 MK1 to a 1984 C&c35.  
> Readying the new one for launch this spring, I noticed water in the  
> locker beneath the quarter berth and traced the source to loose deck  
> joint bolts, I think. As with the 29, water stands against the toe  
> rail at the aft quarter and it looks like it's getting underneath and  
> into the cabin. Is fixing this simply a matter of tightening the nuts?  
> Anyone have any experience, hints, cautions?
> ---
> Richard Bernstein
> LUNA-C&C 35
> Lake Champlain, Vermont
> 

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Stus-List primer on unpainted gelcoat

[Eric Frank]

A couple of areas (a few square inches) on the hull of Cat's Paw just below the 
waterline are completely bare: no antifouling paint and no primer either - just 
bare gelcoat.  What do CC'ers recommend for a primer to coat these spots?  How 
many coats? And then what primer should go over that to make a good base for 
the antifouling paint (I use Micron 66)? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Electronics at the helm

[Eric Frank]

Robert -  The feet on my older pedestal guard did not have holes, rather, they 
were screwed down to the cockpit floor with one screw each right under the 
tube. It sounds as though that is what you have.  But Edson sells replacement 
feet that do have a hole, with two bolts on the side securing the foot to the 
cockpit floor.  Then you can run the wires down the tubes.  That worked fine 
for me.  It happened that the position of the guard was right over a transverse 
support of the floor, so it took 6 inch 1/4-20 threaded stock to go all the way 
through.  Probably could have used lag screws.

Eric
Cat's Paw, 35 MkII

> On 2013-05-04, at 12:09, Robert Gallagher  wrote:
> 
> I am getting ready to fully wire my Chartplotter/depth/ to power, depth 
> transducer, and Ais GPS that is located down below.
> 
> There is not enough room to go through the pedestal as the autopilot and 
> engine cables are taking up most of the space and I don't want anything to 
> get tangled.
> 
> The pedestal guard is the obvious choice but there are NO HOLES down there.  
> Only nuts on studs or bolts at the base of the guard tubes.
> 
> HELP!
> 
> A new pedestal guard seems like overkill just to run wires.  And yes, I need 
> the chartplotter at the helm.
> 
> Thanks in advance, I know someone will come up with a solution :)
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Eric Frank]

I concur with Dwight's bet.  I had rainwater appearing in the after port settee 
compartment that I thought was coming from a toerail leak.  But then I noticed 
a drip from a crack in the headliner after a heavy rain.  So I finally took the 
companion way hatch cover completely off, cleaned it up, and rebedded it, and 
have not seen water in that place since then even after a heavy rain (it still 
does come down the mast and into the bilge). 

Apparently in moderate rain, the water coming in through the hatch cover ran 
down inside the liner over to the port side without being visible en route.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 12:36:28 -0300
> From: dwight veinot 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I am betting on the companion way slide hatch
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  _  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
> Aronson
> Sent: May 23, 2013 10:40 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
> 
> Keith,
> Gennie track or toe rail loose?
> Joel
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:21 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
>  wrote:
> 
> If we are talking about mystery leaks.I have one coming from the
> overhead near the nav desk.  It's in the extreme outboard, about 1-inch
> aft of the electrical panel.  It drips into that little shelf.  I cannot
> find any leaking bolts thru the deck anywhere aft of that, and the shape
> of the headliner would seem to make the electrical panel a high point -
> like the continental divide.
> 
> I honestly suspect that it's coming thru an electrical cables' sheath.
> but the only wiring that "leaves the boat" back there is the stern
> light, which is inside it's fixture...it's a mystery.
> 
> -Keith
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List RJC 1000 Radar

[Eric Frank]

Bob,

I purchased one of these units, new, in 2007.  The head of the boatyard
where Cat's Paw is stored recommended it as a low cost but good radar
system.  He claimed that the electronics in these low-end radars was
identical, i.e. made by the same (unknown) manufacturer and then coupled
with different displays by separate companies.  Much like all the CD
drives for sound systems that exploded during the late 90's and early
2000's. I have no independent knowledge this is correct, however.

Nevertheless, the system has worked fine for me.  I used it heavily during
a trip from Buzzard's Bay up to Bar Harbor (ME) and back, where we had
significant fog nearly every day for two weeks, but for the local sailing
we do in Buzzard's Bay, it is hardly used. I did recently sell it, though,
because I wanted a system that used the same display as my helm-based
chart plotter.  The superposition of the radar and GPS charts seems like
it would be very helpful, and it is a nuisance running below to check the
radar screen, especially when I am single-handing.  The SiTex radar
(another low-end unit) is compatible with my SH chart plotter, so it comes
with no display of its own.

Apparently much better is broadband radar, which is better for seeing
close objects and has lower power consumption.  It does cost more, of
course, and was not compatible with my existing chart plotter.

In terms of price when I sold it, the only item I found for this unit on
eBay was for a combined (radar plus display) price of a bit over $500 as a
"buy it now" price.  My unit has 50 hours total, and works perfectly, so I
sold the complete unit to a fellow sailor who wanted it for $500.

As others have mentioned, mounting is also expensive.  I went with a
platform mounted on the backstay made by Waltz Manufacturing, which has
worked out fine.  They were less expensive than Defender and have a
variety of options available.  You can find them easily on-line

Contact me off-line if you want additional information.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C&C 35 II
Mattapoisett, MA


>Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 19:13:39 -0300
>From: Robert Abbott 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Stus-List RJC 1000 Radar
>Message-ID: <51b3ac93.3080...@eastlink.ca>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>A fellow boater took a 'RJC 1000 Radar' unit off his boat (well, not
>completely, more on that later) and if offering it for sale.  I said I
>was interested.  He bought it with the boat but it was never powered up
>to a battery.we assume it workshe said I can take it and try it
>out on our boat before he would accept payment.his idea of trying it
>out was to power it up and someone hold the 'dome' or 'scanner' on the
>pulpit.   Not my idea of trying it out unless I was surrounded in lead.
>He hasn't given me a price, just said make me a reasonable offer.  I
>am wondering what you listers think would be a 'reasonable offer'.
>
>There are four (4) 'dome' or 'scanner' mounts riveted to the masthe
>doesn't want to remove themeach mount has 3 rivets X 4 = 12 small
>holes in the mastappears the 'dome' or 'scanner' fits in the
>mount(s) with a pinI offered to fill them with self taping SS screws
>but he doesn't like that idea.he doesn't want them removed.  Are
>these mounts easy to find and are they expensive?
>
>I don't want the radar that badly but I wouldn't mind getting it for a
>good priceI don't want to insult this guy but on the other hand, he
>doesn't want to sell an integral part of the 'mount'.
>
>Any and all comments appreciated.
>
>Bob Abbott
>AZURA
>C&C 32 - 84
>Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Bow Rollers

[Eric Frank]

Stu,

I contacted several people a couple of years ago.  These contacts might help 
although their addresses may also be out of date.


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

Hi Frank,
You will find pictures of the bow roller at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/102494727123155985813/AnchorBowRoller
Kingston anchor, http://www.kingstonanchors.com/  model BR-1. Pricey but works. 

To install we drilled two holes in the roller to match bolt holes in the bow 
stem - that's it.
Let me know if I can take more pictures or if you need more details.
Cheers,
Peter   Peter Deppisch 
S/V Tangerine
C&C35 MK II
Lion's Head, Ontario

or this, from Alan Bergen  Alan Bergen   He sent 
pictures which I can email you.

The material is 1/4" stainless.  I made a cardboard template and had it cut for 
me.  The shop drilled holes that were the correct size for tapping.  Then I use 
it for a guide to drill the aluminum stemhead fitting on the boat.  I tapped 
the holes in the stemhead fitting, and then drilled out the holes in the 
stainless plate for screw clearance.  I think the screws (stainless) are 1/4 - 
20.


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




> Subject: Stus-List Bow Rollers
> Message-ID: <4797630D28204921B91DDDB3A1F15E99@Security>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> If you look in the Do-it-yourself section of the Photo Album and Custom Bow 
> Rollers, there are several links to contact the owners of the specific 
> rollers.  Unfortunately, these links do not work anymore.
> 
> If you are still on the list, or know of these owners, please update me with 
> their current email addresses.
> 
> Tom ? Chameleon 
> Richard ? Anonymous
> Joe ? Moonlight
> Allan ? C&C 30 MKII
> Tom ? C&C 34
> 
> Thanx
> Stu


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Stus-List Re Bareboat charter BVI

[Eric Frank]

Dave,

We rented a 35' catamaran from TMM Yacht Charters this March for two couples.  
None of us had tried a big cat before, all of us were used to cruising in 
monohulls.  It was like staying in a very pleasant hotel: one couple in each 
hull, with private bath (head does not do them justice) and a very large living 
space between the two hulls.  Glass all around so great views with a sliding 
door to a small "cockpit" area aft.  Very modern kitchen (again, galley would 
be inappropriate), built-in wifi that worked everywhere we went.  We were 
bareboat, but the area for the captain (one of us, rotating) was up a small 
flight of "stairs" so it was easy to see over the spacious living area but was 
quite isolated from the rest of the crew.  Very easy to get in and out of the 
dinghy, which hung from davits.

The disappointment for me was that it sailed about like you would expect for a 
Winnebago.  Basically it looked very similar to the cruisers that also were 
rented by TMM except for the mast and boom.  Just as long and just as wide.  We 
rarely got it over 4.5 knots under sail, and it didn't go upwind much at all.  
So a lot of motoring.

All in all, worked very well especially as one of us has developing PD, so the 
layout made it much easier to get around and in and out of the dinghy.  As 
others on the list have described, the islands in the BVI are almost all very 
close to each other, so it is easy to get where you want to go, then anchor or 
moor and go snorkeling or visiting the gorgeous beaches.  Micheal of S/V 
Tachyon described it well today on the list.

But if one wants to sail rather than vacation, I would definitely choose a 
monohull.

TMM was great, by the way, as mentioned by another lister yesterday.  Very 
supportive and friendly.  No complaints at all.

Eric

Cat's Paw, 35MkII

> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bareboat charter BVI?
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I would like to do a BVI charter sometime in the future. What is the feeling 
> about monohull vs. catamaran for these vacations (presuming an AC72 is not on 
> the rental list).  I have never sailed a big cat and have a feeling it would 
> interfere with my enjoyment of the experience.  Dave
> 

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Stus-List mounting solar panels

[Eric Frank]

I've decided to replace our flexible solar panel (mounted on the front hatch) 
with a rigid one - more power for the same size, cheaper, and lasts longer.  Am 
debating whether to mount it on the bimini frame or off the stern rail.  The 
bimini mount would be nice except that we always collapse the bimini (with 
canvas) when off the boat or when it's windy, so we couldn't leave the panel 
mounted (or is there a way to do it?).  Off the stern rail seems to be common - 
what mounts do you recommend?  Are the clamps on the rail strong enough to 
support the panel without diagonal braces down to the taffrail? Do you have 
specific recommendations for mounts?  The panel (50 watt) is about 20 X 26 
inches and weighs around 10 lbs.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels

[Eric Frank]

Just realized it would be much easier to mount the panel on the pole (which 
runs right along side the backstay) that supports the radar dome.  Side-pole 
mounts are quite available, not expensive, and with that I can put the panel 
above where the bimini is located.  Also like the idea of getting it off the 
rail.

Thanks for the comments from Dave and John.

Eric

> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I just received a 50W panel that I plan to install in the spring.  I plan to 
> put velcro strips on the sliding companionway hatch and mount it there when I 
> am not on the boat and move it below when I am.  Dave
> 


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Re: Stus-List Thru hull and manifolds

[Eric Frank]

This works really well on Cat's Paw.  I learned about it on this list a year or 
so ago and I implemented it last winter.  Someone said the idea originated with 
the lady who has published extensively about marine toilets (name eludes me) - 
Danny - you talked to her by telephone a few months ago - right?

Flushing the bowl with fresh water at the end of the day has made a big 
difference in smell.  It also has made winterizing the toilet and holding tank 
easier - just fill the basin with antifreeze and pump it into the toilet and 
then into the previously emptied holding tank.  

I would not have gone so far as "sweet" though!

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II

> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Thru hull and manifolds
> Another idea:
> My toilet intake passes under the heads basin. So I teed the basin 
> drain into the toilet raw water supply. It works like a charm, basin 
> drains out the intake trough-hull and when the toilet gets used there 
> is good agitation to clear the basin drain.
> As an added bonus, being a salt water high organics boat area, before 
> I leave the boat for any length of time I close toilet supply 
> through-hull, half fill the basin with fresh water and pump through 
> the toilet. When I get back and use the boat there is no sulphur 
> smell in initial uses of toilet, sweet :)


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot

[Eric Frank]

Hi Peter and David,

This is very interesting for me.  Ultimately, my project with these things is 
for building a model sailboat that is semi-autonmous.  Give it a list of 
waypoints, and it will navigate to them.  This is already implemented 
commercially for model planes, and there are various attempts at trans-atlantic 
crossings with model sailboats (so far unsuccessful).
  To begin the learning process, I am using arduino and a wind direction 
instrument to automatically adjust the sheet for the apparent wind.  And to get 
more realtime practice with the arduino, I am adding to the NEMA-based system 
on Cats Paw to derive tilt-compensated true heading info.  A tilt-compensated 
Hall effect compass module from Sparkfun generates the NEMA code for magnetic 
heading, and the RMC sentence from a little GPS unit provides the local 
magnetic variation.  So that allows construction of HDG (magnetic heading + 
deviation and variation), which standard nav programs like MacENC or iNavX can 
use to get true headings.
  I have not even started putting together an autopilot for the model (on Cats 
Paw I use a Raymarine wheel pilot), but would love to learn more about how you 
implement the "learning" steps in having the autopilot make the appropriate 
rudder corrections for a certain course error.
  My guess is these projects will not be of interest to lots of the Stus-list, 
so perhaps we should start communicating offline.  Interested?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: David Paine 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Hi Peter,
> 
> I built a homebrew below deck autopilot for my C&C33 a couple of years ago
> using a linear actuator, a mechanical clutch, a H-bridge-like serial power
> controller from Pololu, an arduino, a transreflective serial LCD display,
> four buttons, and most important of all, a digital compass with serial
> communication (NMEA 0183) operating at 10Hz which, along with a sparkfun
> gyro (15 degrees/sec) provides heading information.  I bout everything from
> ebay and probably have $250 and untold hours invested)   The programming is
> fairly easy with arduino since there is a PID controller library available
> (use two, one for the positioning of the actuator, the other for correcting
> for the course error (the difference between the intended course and the
> present heading.
> 
> I've used my autopilot  on many long solo trips including one 80 m mile
> offshore run with 20 kn wind directly astern and a large swell off the
> quarter (during which I was able to sleep for four hours as the system was
> so stable.
> 
> Hints:  Forget using GPS (or wind) alone to set the course you need much
> faster response time and that is why you need a 10 Hz heading signal.  I
> thought about using a Kalman filter but soon learned that Kalman filter
> math is serious juju and was very glad to have stuck with PID control -- we
> only have two degrees of freedom its not like it's a quadracopter!  The
> worst part of my system as it stands now is the mechanical clutch to engage
> and disengage the actuator -- one day I will find a hydraulic actuator
> which will allow a solenoid to disengage the actuator.  Raymarine actuators
> have an electromechanical clutch which is also nice but consumes more
> current than I like.  Also, try to use components with serial
> communications protocols -- these will have on board filtering and make the
> whole exercise much easier.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jan 21, 2014 at 2:24 AM, Colomba  wrote:
> 
>> Good day
>> 
>> I`m wondering if there is anybody who want to build a DIY autopilot? If
>> so, it would be interesting to discuss/combine ideas.
>> 
>> In the moment my idea ... and what I`ve done so far is following:
>> - Controll unit with a raspberry pi
>> - language Python (because I really do not know C to handle this properly)
>> 
>> The idea in the moment is to use this year the old wheel pilot (Navico) as
>> steering unit. If the controll unit will work fine, I will change the
>> steering unit next winter and will mount a linear drive under deck.
>> 
>> What I`ve done up to now ...
>> I took the code of FishPi autopilot as basic to change to the things which
>> I think are usefull.
>> For time being I integrated a compass/magnetrometer/accelerometer module,
>> called cmps10. It`s cheap and doing it`s job.
>> For GPS signal I`m using a simple USB GPS mouse to figure out
>> Lon/Lat/speed/course
>> ... not done yet ... integrate a reader for wind direction. On board I
>> have the NASA clipper

Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot

[Eric Frank]

This was precisely my concern.  I have learned so many useful things on this 
list-serve that I have no interest in causing a problem (case in point, 
separating the prop shaft from the transmission coupler - would never have 
figured out how to do this on my own), and my own sense is that the folks 
interested in this new topic should interact in a different way. Not that all 
the listings are very interesting to me - discussions of racing handicaps and 
the like are boring to me, but certainly highly relevant to a significant group 
of the listers.  So I just skip over them.  But building DIY autopilots or 
autonomous model sailboats is quite different.

So let me look into what it takes to set up a very simple site where the 
interested folks can interact without using this list.  Please allow me a 
couple of more posts to stay in touch with people who are potentially 
interested about this while I set it up, but then we will move it.

Thanks,

Eric

> From: "Pete Shelquist" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot...let them talk
> Message-ID: <000301cf16f7$12073870$3615a950$@shelqu...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Bill, Others:
> No one's being swamped and the list isn't being monopolized.  Also, this
> conversation is as C&C specific as the recent conversation on Harken roller
> furler, adjustable car leads, AGM batteries and a host of other dribble.
> 
> Obviously, there are a number of members on this list that are interested
> and want to share information.  It, like most conversations, will probably
> die off in the near future.  Personally, I understand less than half of what
> they're talking about, but I read and take in what I can and delete the
> rest.  Others are welcome to do the same.
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
> Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 3:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot
> 
> Sorry, but I strongly disagree. One of the most popular reasons for people
> to unsubscribe from this list over the years has been that the sheer volume
> of emails is too much to handle. To monopolize this C&C specific discussion
> list with the nuts and bolts communications generated by such a (non-C&C
> specific) project would be inappropriate, to put it as mildly as possible.
> It needs to have it's own home. 
> Swamping this list is not the answer.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 1/21/2014 4:02 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
>> I posit that a mailing list like this is also an archive. Judging by 
>> the traffic that this thread has already generated in one day I 
>> wouldn't assume that it's not an interesting topic to other listers or 
>> that those with little technical know-how either have nothing to 
>> contribute or nothing to learn. Nevermind the people that might be 
>> googling for this topic a year or two from now. I for one would like 
>> to see how this goes so my vote is keep the discussion here as long as 
>> it's practical. I understand that there might be a need to share files 
>> etc. Maybe you guys want to consider an open project. Just putting it 
>> out there.
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Eric Frank]

Fred,

I'd like to order a mini.  Let me or the list know what to add for shipping so 
I can write you a check.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

On Feb 13, 2014, at 10:04 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 12:49:22 -0600
> From: Frederick G Street 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators
> Message-ID: <19d12e86-0e56-42bc-a0b7-f4ddc9f3d...@postaudio.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> I?ve gotten some interest in the Tank-Edge Smart Mini monitor (one sensor), 
> and will be putting in an order for at least three systems early next week.  
> Any other takers?
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Feb 12, 2014, at 11:35 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
>> I?ve gotten set up with the Tank-Edge guys as a dealer.  If anyone?s 
>> interested in their monitors, I can get the Smart Mini with one sensor for 
>> $115 plus shipping, and the iSeries Standard (marine version with conformal 
>> coating) with three sensors for $185 plus shipping.
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> -- next part --

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Stus-List a source for Si-tex radar domes?

[Eric Frank]

I have been trying to locate a small radar dome that is compatible with my 
Standard Horizon CP300i chartplotter.  It is a nuisance to run below to look at 
the radar screen, so it would be great to have the display on the chartplotter 
at the helm.  The CP300i is compatible with the Si-tex radars, but Si-Tex has 
stopped making them and the dealers I have contacted have no more in stock.  
Fred Street, of this list-serve, tried hard to locate one for me, but was 
unsuccessful.  Just thought someone else on this list might know where I could 
locate one, even used.  Ebay has them but at double the list price. 2.2 
boat-bucks for a very low-end radar dome seems excessive!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List which iPad

[Eric Frank]

Ron,
   If you like the navigation app iNavX, then that runs well even on the first 
generation iPads, as well as the later ones.  To supply a GPS signal, there are 
various units that plug into the "charging" port of the iPad.  Here are the 
ones listed on the iNavX website: 
Bad Elf GPS
Dual XGPS150 Universal Bluetooth GPS / Dual XGPS170 Universal Bluetooth GPS

Magellan ToughCase

Or there are some free-standing GPS units that broadcast a wifi signal, which 
also works well.  Several laptop-based navigation systems (I use MacENC on the 
Mac, but there are also good ones for PCs) also broadcast wifi nav information, 
as well as some chartplotters (like the E7 from Raymarine).

iNavX lets you download free raster charters from NOAA, so once you buy the app 
and the GPS module, there are no further costs.  You definitely do not need 
phone capability to use the iPad.  But even the new ones are not waterproof.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List lecture on Safety at Sea?

[Eric Frank]

A few weeks ago, someone on this list gave a schedule of his planned talks at 
West Marine stores around the country.  I recorded the date for one at 
Fairhaven, MA as yesterday afternoon, but when I went there, they said they had 
had a lecture in the morning, not afternoon, and it was on bottom paint.  
Obviously I got the date wrong.

Could the person who posted that schedule post it again?  Especially if a visit 
to the Fairhaven West Marine store is still planned.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List wiring projects

[Eric Frank]

Dave,

I also bought one of these monitors from Fred and installed it last weekend.  
It was very easy to wire the fuse in  the power supply lead, right behind the 
little panel of the monitor.  Obviously it is a much lower amp fuse than the 
one in your main panel (I assume), so it will blow when something just goes 
wrong with the monitor.  In Cat's Paw, the same power lead up to the head also 
supplies the macerator, which is fairly high current, so that main fuse will 
not protect the monitor.  It's so easy to include the little fuse (just like 
the voltage regular that came with the monitor) that I see no reason not to do 
it.

It's hard to imagine that the solar panel will suddenly provide 30 Amps and 
blow the fuse.  But if the output circuitry of the controller shorted out, you 
would have a direct connection from your battery to the controller.  That would 
be a huge current and could cause a fire.  So I would include the fuse between 
each controller output and its battery.  Again, it is easy to put in a little 
fuse (maybe twice the current rating of the max charging current from your 
solar charger) in series with these leads.  I put this fuse between each 
controller output and the big red battery switch (to the terminals connected 
directly to the battery). If you already have a fuse between the battery and 
the red switch, this is less important, but you could install a much smaller 
fuse between the controller and the battery switch so it would blow if the 
controller output shorted out without messing up your boat's connection to the 
battery.

Eric, C&C 35 MkII

> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Subject: Stus-List wiring projects
> Message-ID: <2f69cb55-c31a-4031-901f-ae6ca4284...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have two wiring projects to complete this weekend and I have questions 
> about fuses:
> 1.  The holding tank monitor I bought from Fred shows a fuse being wired 
> between the power source and the monitor gauge.  Since the power is coming 
> from a breaker on the main panel, is there any reason to add this fuse as 
> well?
> 
> 2.  I am also wiring my new solar panel to a Sunsaver Duo controller and then 
> to the two batteries.  Their diagram shows a 30A fuse wired between the Duo 
> and each battery.  They did not supply these fuses with the kit.  Is there a 
> rationale for those fuses?  
> Thanks- Dave
> 


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Stus-List jammed transmission lever

[Eric Frank]

Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk II.  
With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just 
replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very smoothly 
and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins diesel yesterday 
(still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral.  I noticed that was 
true last weekend just after the install, but figured the engine needed to be 
running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the prop shaft to drive the 
shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think there was any strain on the 
transmission.  Would like advice about where to look for the jam. In the shift 
lever from the pedestal? In the transmission itself? Maybe disconnect the shift 
cable from the transmission and see if I can then move the shift lever?  Advice 
from the list soon would be greatly appreciated.  Launch date is slated for 
this week, but if the prop shaft has to be disconnected from the tran
 ny to fix things, launch needs to be delayed.

Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.

Eric
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Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever

[Eric Frank]

Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's fine.  
That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened the 
pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the 
top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near 
where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  Would moving 
the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps squirting 
with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions?

Eric

> You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the tx 
> lever moves. 
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank  wrote:
>> 
>> Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk II.  
>> With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just 
>> replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very 
>> smoothly and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins diesel 
>> yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral.  I 
>> noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured the 
>> engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the prop 
>> shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think there was 
>> any strain on the transmission.  Would like advice about where to look for 
>> the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the transmission itself? 
>> Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the transmission and see if I can then 
>> move the shift lever?  Advice from the list soon would be greatly 
>> appreciated.  Launch date is slated for this week, but if the prop shaft has 
>> to be disconnected from the tranny to fix things, launch needs to be delayed.
>> 
>> Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.
>> 
>> Eric

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Stus-List Update on jammed transmission lever

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

  Your collective advice was to replace the shift cable (and throttle cable as 
well) so I have proceeded to try to do that but have run into another problem.  
Following the directions on the Edson website, I delved into the pedestal, 
moved the throttle cable to the port side, unscrewed the cable clamp from the 
pedestal housing and then tried to pull the cables up to gain access to the 
clamp.  As the directions suggested, this was difficult to do, as the clamp 
gets jammed against the steering chain.  Cranking the wheel from port to 
starboard helped, as they suggested, but not enough.  So the next advice was to 
loosen the steering cable (what a PITA!) so I could lift the chain over the 
sprocket teeth and forward up to the wheel brake.  That helped also, but still 
not enough.  I think the trouble is that the cable clamp is made for 3 cables, 
not two, so the part without a cable in it still gets jammed under part of the 
pedestal casting, and I cannot get it out.
  How to proceed? Advice needed!  One thought is to unbolt the pedestal from 
the cockpit floor and tip it over so I can pull the cables with the clamp out 
the bottom of the pedestal.  Of course the chain/cables will need to be a lot 
looser than they are now, and I hesitate to disconnect the cables from the 
quadrant completely.  Maybe as they are already loose (from loosening the nuts 
on the eyebolt), I could pop the cable off one of the sheaves that the cable 
runs over, and perhaps that would loosen the cable sufficiently that I could 
tip the pedestal over.  But before I try something like that, it would be great 
if I could get some further input from the list.  Would hate to do something 
that made a big repair necessary.

Thanks!

Eric
C&C 35 MkII
Mattapoisett, MA

> Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
> won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's 
> fine.  That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened the 
> pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the 
> top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near 
> where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  Would moving 
> the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps 
> squirting with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions?
> 
> Eric
> 
>> You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the 
>> tx lever moves. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk II. 
>>>  With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just 
>>> replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very 
>>> smoothly and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins 
>>> diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral.  
>>> I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured 
>>> the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the 
>>> prop shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think 
>>> there was any strain on the transmission.  Would like advice about where to 
>>> look for the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the transmission 
>>> itself? Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the transmission and see if I 
>>> can then move the shift lever?  Advice from the list soon would be greatly 
>>> appreciated.  Launch date is slated for this week, but if the prop shaft 
>>> has to be disconnected from the tranny to fix things, launch needs to be 
>>> delayed.
>>> 
>>> Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.
>>> 
>>> Eric

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Rob,  I just did it last weekend while I was changing the shift and throttle 
cables.  I had to remove the brake so I could slide the chain all the way 
forward to get the cables changed.  Re-installing the brake was easy by 
comparison.  As Sylvain and others have mentioned, after removing the compass, 
also remove the next layer of the pedestal to make access easier.  It's very 
easy to put the pieces of the brake in - the wheel and shaft just screw into 
the port brake piece.  I pulled a piece of twine through the eye of the cotter 
pin so that if I dropped the pin while installing it, it would not disappear 
down the pedestal.  Then just pull the twine out when the legs on the pin are 
properly bent.  It all went fairly smoothly.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 18:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Abbott , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> Message-ID:
>   <1400723791.69954.yahoomail...@web163405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Yes, I did it 2-3 years ago on my Edson 335 , no specific issues except to 
> make sure the roller bearings and chain links? grease have no chance to 
> contaminate the brake pad lining. I think the big issue was putting the 
> cotter pin . make sure you have 1? ( or better 2 ) layers of rags under the 
> shaft assembly, some parts are pretty small!
> 
> Sylvain
> C&C27 MkIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:17 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
> 
> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
> 
> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
> challenge.
> 
> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
> compass is removed?? Any and all advice welcomed.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 



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Stus-List Reattaching compass to Edson pedestal

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

In putting the pedestal back together after replacing the cables, I've run into 
a problem in securing my Ritche compass to the top of the pedestal.  It is 
normally held there with two small machine screws that screw into knurled 
"nuts" that were fastened to the underside of the lip at the top of the 
pedestal.  These "nuts" have become disconnected from the pedestal (I managed 
to catch them) so I don't know how to refasten them to the pedestal.  Are there 
supposed to be inserts on these "nuts" that press into the top of the pedestal 
to hold them in place?  Or is there another way to provide the screws with 
something to screw into?  Thanks.

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Just saw this lovely little sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 
25 feet long.  Can anyone identify her class?  Two photos are available on my 
dropbox - here are the URLs.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

Thanks, Eric

Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

>From the overall hull shape and way the hull comes out of the water well 
>before the stern, the best match of all the responses was from Dwight, who 
>thought it might be a Bluenose sloop, first built in 1946.  Also note the way 
>the mast is stayed, with upper shrouds pushed forward (they must have a 
>correct name, but I don't know it). The later ones were fiberglass (built by 
>McVay - wouldn't you know, another Canadian classic design!) and most seem to 
>have little or no cabin, but some pictures do have small cabins, so perhaps 
>that was done to the boat I saw.  Here is a website describing them if you 
>care to match specs with the photos I posted:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CEQQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fsailboatdata.com%2Fviewrecord.asp%3Fclass_id%3D40&ei=m6eMU6vOKIbQsQSq9ICYDg&usg=AFQjCNEjklU00OZvZhZ0-mdQ7ry3I7Lcpw&bvm=bv.67720277,d.cWc

Or just Google Bluenose sloop.

Here are my two photos (again) for comparison.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Eric

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Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

   My new E7 Raymarine chartplotter reboots when I start the engine (a Perkins 
diesel).  Cat's Paw's batteries are quite new, fully charged, and hold their 
charge well.  But obviously the voltage drops when cranking the engine.  None 
of my other electronics is affected this way, including an old CP 150 Standard 
Horizon and a 2007 CP300 chartplotter.  Apparently the E7 demands a higher 
voltage to keep from crashing.
Best way to deal with this?  Others must have a similar problem.  I could 
put a small rechargable battery just before the panel switch to the E7 with a 
diode to the main battery, so it is kept charged but maintains enough voltage 
to the E7 when the main voltage drops.  But I bet there is a better solution. 
Suggestions welcome!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List binnacle light

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Joel,

My binnacle light is also wired to the Running Lights (not the ones on the 
mast) switch on the panel, just as Jake has described. But in addition, 
corrosion on the wires right in the binnacle itself had to be cleaned to get 
the lights (2 bulbs) to work.

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Joel,
> If I recall, you have two push-pull switches next to your engine panel.  I 
> only have one and that is for the binnacle light (which hopefully still 
> works).  It is conceivable that the binnacle might be wired into your nav 
> lights too.  They are all needed at the same time?
> Jake
> 

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

A bit late on this one, but just to add another plus (both my cataracts were 
corrected during the last 10 months).  Cat’s Paw was already beautiful (to me) 
before the operation, and the sails were already close enough for me to see 
they were mostly badly trimmed.  But for the first time in years, I can see 
buoys as far away as my wife can (she has excellent vision).  This has really 
made a qualitative difference in my pleasure while sailing.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> On Aug 2, 2014, at 9:49 AM, "Stu"  wrote:
> 
> Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and 
> they were 'ripe' for surgery.
> 
> After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and 
> new lens inserted.? Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of 
> several weeks between each.
> 
> Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye 
> -- I think my brain is getting water logged.
> 
> But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing 
> glasses, I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes.? Still need 
> glasses for reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks.? At 
> the same time, I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from 
> my driver's license.
> 
> I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that 
> I have missed.
> 
> If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will 
> be surprised at how beautiful your C&C really looks.
> ?
> Stu

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Re: Stus-List Sound insulation

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

David,
  On Cat’s Paw, I installed special sound insulation to quiet the noise of our 
30 hp Perkins diesel.  Decided to make noise measurements in the cockpit, the 
cabin just forward of the engine, and all the way forward in the V-berth (using 
a cheap dB meter app on the iPhone).  2 inch thick sound foam with a special 
sound-adsorbing backing on the wooden engine housing in the cabin (sides, front 
and top) and on the sides of the cockpit lockers.  Just too hard to get to the 
underside of the cockpit floor.  It made only a small difference in sound level 
- maybe a dB or two (I think 3 dB is a factor of 2).  When talking to a 
professional sound person when we separated a large room with wooden sliding 
doors in our rental apartment downstairs with special sound-absorbing 
materials, professionally installed, I was told that even a small gap in the 
insulation would basically make the whole thing pretty ineffective.  90 percent 
coverage with insulation would let much more than 10 percent of the sound 
through.  That job really worked - they left no crack uncovered and it really 
blocks the sound. So my guess is that unless every exit point surrounding the 
engine were insulated, it would make little difference (and I left the whole 
cockpit floor uninsulated).  Also the engine can transmit sound by vibration 
through the engine mounts - perhaps new ones would help - have not tried that.  
But as it stands, pretty disappointing.

See you at the Newport rendezvous in September - I can show you what I did.

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
> CnC-List
> Sent: August 28, 2014 6:22 PM
> To: CNC CNC
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation
> 
> Well I heard from one about the not-so-great results from installing engine
> sound insulation...anybody  else want to chime in with an opinion about
> whether it is worth it?
> 
> David F. Risch
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Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Tom,

I had the same symptoms on Cat’s Paw last fall.  Turned out that the rubber 
bellows was probably quite old and was very stiff.  You might consider a new 
bellows and SS rotor from PYI.  They also sell an additional SS clamp which is 
attached just in front of the rotor and which clamps onto the shaft, like a 
zinc anode on the prop shaft.  So it is a good safety that does not depend on 
the set screws.  A pain to replace the bellows but it completely solved the 
problem.  PYI recommends changing the bellows every few years.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> 2  Dripping dripless bearing
> 
> In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West 
> in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the 
> bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run 
> back yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the 
> ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water 
> everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require 
> whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I checked and the rotor 
> was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am getting the 
> documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but 
> as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but 
> replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock 
> tight to lock them in place.

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Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless PYI 
shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the bellows 
could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have never done this, and with the 
recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in place on the prop 
shaft, I wonder if it is worth it.  Would be interested in what other PYI users 
do.  I did replace the entire unit last winter; at full engine RPM I had 
noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the carbon flange, perhaps 
because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft forward until the rotor did not 
make good contact with the flange.  When I unclamped the rotor and slid it 
forward to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and there were some small pits 
in the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI recommended replacing the entire 
unit, which I did, and it has worked fine this summer.  But it had worked 
flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, and looked like it had been
  installed well before that, without doing anything to winterize it - just 
checking to make sure it was not leaking at the beginning of each season.  So 
what's the feeling about following PS's suggestion? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and 
worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used Fram 
because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was not a good 
make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980’s Perkins 30 HP diesel, probably less 
than 20 hours per year.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks, Josh, Dennis and Dwight for the rapid feedback.  Sounds like there are 
a number of good choices, but lots of input to stay away from Fram.  Think I’ll 
go with the K&N. Dwight, your comment about the 20 hrs makes sense to me, and 
the oil actually looks pretty clean.  I like to change the oil every year 
despite the low usage, and once that is drained, changing the filter is both 
easy and cheap.

Eric


> On Nov 9, 2014, at 4:52 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
>> Follow the link if you want a PDF of the article for safe keeping.
>> 
>> https://docs.google.com/file/d/1GWN2wLUqfJ8QbUdxd1z8Jo2L24V2RVQIXLxN0ASuiXxe7ydOlpi8QCpiliBaQa2u449_fyFXE2LXfU8U/edit?usp=docslist_api
>> 
>> On Nov 8, 2014 5:51 PM, "Eric Frank via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and 
>> worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used 
>> Fram because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was not 
>> a good make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980’s Perkins 30 HP diesel, 
>> probably less than 20 hours per year.
>> 
>> Eric Frank
>> Cat's Paw
>> C&C 35 Mk II
>> Mattapoisett, MA
> 
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Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Rick,

Did you buy access panels that were ready to install?  If so, where?  Sounds 
like a great improvement over the 6 inch access port I currently have there. I 
will be installing a boarding ladder this winter, and that would help a lot.  
Also for adjusting the tension in the steering cables on the quadrant.

Eric Frank


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Re: Stus-List Mainsail track gate

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Greg,

I got a custom track extension and gate made by Tom Luque, at Mastgate. 
MastGates.com  Tom was very helpful in designing and sending me a system that 
worked for the mast in my C&C35 II (original spar, 1974). He will certainly 
work with you to design something specific.  I wanted to extend my track 
(molded right into the mast) below the opening so the slugs would slide all the 
way down to the boom. Basically he fabricated two SS pieces that screwed onto 
each side of the opening.  In the end, I got a friend to machine two pieces of 
aluminum bar and screwed them into the mast instead, but I think the mast gate 
system would have worked if I had pursued it.  I can provide more information 
and pictures if you contact me off-list.

Eric
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Stus-List Sanitation hose

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I am replacing the old sanitation hose from the pump out fitting to the hand 
pump (used when we are offshore) and from the pump to the thru hull outlet.  
The Trident Sani Shield seems to be a favorite (1.5 inches ID) but has a bigger 
OD than other hoses.  Does anyone know its OD? - it will be easier if I don't 
have to make the hole it goes through (just plywood) bigger.

Best wishes to all the wonderful people on Stu's list for the holiday season.  
I enjoy working on Cat's Paw on the hard during the winter as well as the 
sailing season, and support from this group makes that much more productive and 
fun.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Latest chartplotters

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Andy,

Joel is correct about the touch screen on the e7.  When it works (which is most 
of the time), it’s great, including the zooming and shrinking with two fingers. 
 But even normal daysailing in a good wind (not just sailing to Bermuda), my 
fingers were wet enough that I could not get a good response by touching.  So 
it was very helpful to have the joystick in those cases.  Worth the extra 
price.  Other than that, the Admiral and I really like the e7 (bought last 
spring).

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

On Jan 31, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Andy,
> By the time I got back from Bermuda even the mirror in the head was covered
> in salt!
> The redundancy of the joystick and zoom wheel made it an inconvenience, not
> a problem.  Several times we used the Rayremote software on the iPad to
> avoid crowding the helmsman.
> Joel
> 
> On Friday, January 30, 2015, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Wifi, Rick.
>> How does salt water get on your screens? Mine will be mounted in the
>> cockpit so it should never get wet.
>> Or are you guys THAT kind of sailor? The kind that sails in splashy
>> weather when all prudent mariners are at the bar...
>> 
>> :)
>> 
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine

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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Ed,
But it takes only a small panel to provide adequate current to keep them topped 
off. You will need your alternator when using the batteries for cruising, of 
course, but sitting on the mooring, even 0.5 - 1 amp is sufficient.  That's all 
I use on Cat's Paw (kept on a mooring); I have a small solar panel on the 
forward hatch.  Even with a small panel, though, I recommend a simple charge 
regulator to stop the charging when the batteries are topped up. 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C&C 35 Mk II

> One thing to keep in mind is wet cells can lose up to 10% of charge per month 
> and gels only lose around 1%. For a boat on a mooring or otherwise off shore 
> power this can be a factor.
> If you go wet cells on a mooring you will want a solar panel to keep them 
> topped off.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Edd,

One company I have dealt with advertises making marine cables to order.  I have 
ordered many times from them but not ready-made cables (I used a hammer crimper 
for the cables for an inverter AC power supply for my Prius 2 years ago. 
Obviously not a marine environment - so far they work fine).  The company has 
an odd name, but the quality of the marine signal and 12 V power cables I 
bought from them was fine.  You could check with them to make sure they use a 
good crimper and lugs.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List Connection fittings for corrugated bilge pump hose

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

The 1.5 inch ID corrugated hose that runs from the bilge to a manual pump in 
the cockpit seems to be leaking in air just where the corrugated hose connects 
to an adaptor that screws into the hose with the threads of the corrugation and 
then provides a male 1.5 inch end that fits inside the strainer.  Is there a 
sealer that would make the threaded part into the hose less leaky?  I see the 
new corrugated hoses on line have a built-in non-corrugated section every 12 
inches, a much better solution, but then I would have to buy a new 15 ft length 
of the hose.  Probably someone on this list also has dealt with these older 
style connectors.  Any recommendation for making the connection tighter?  I 
just screwed it on until it was tight and it still leaks.  The problem is that 
it takes vigorous pumping from the cockpit to get the entire hose full of water 
before it pumps very well.  Thanks!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Connection fittings for corrugated bilge pump hose

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks to all of you who contributed answers to my question.  It seems quite 
clear from the responses that to fix this properly, the hose should be 
replaced.  Fortunately that can be done after Cat's Paw is back in the water.

As others have noted, this list is great. I just asked this question this 
morning!

Eric


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Stus-List RudderPostCollar

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

In checking out Cat’s Paw today in preparation for launching, I noticed cracks 
in the collar around the rudder post where it comes through the cockpit floor 
(C&C 35 Mk II, 1974).  The collar looks like an aluminum casting, probably the 
original one.  First, is this sufficiently serious I should not even launch 
until it is fixed? The rudder is held up by the fitting above that with the two 
large allen screws, so I doubt the rudder will fall out.  And the rudder still 
turns easily. Second, where should I look for a replacement collar? Presumably 
the rudder will need to be dropped, or at least held up so it won’t fall out 
when the upper fitting is removed.  So will the boat need to be hauled to do 
that?  We are sailing in the Figawi race in less than 3 weeks, so I doubt it 
can be fixed before that.  Advice please.

Here is a picture of the cracked collar: 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4gfowalb1qyd8j/RudderPostCollar.JPG?dl=0

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Solar panel regulator

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Edd, 

I have had very good luck (now running on 5-6 years) with the Morningstar 
SunGuard Solar Charge controller, first with a 20 watt and now with a 40-50 
watt solar panel.  They are relatively cheap, available through Amazon (and 
other places), and is very simple to set up and use.  If it is to charge only a 
single battery or bank, one controller works fine.  I use one solar panel to 
charge both the house and the starting battery, and then you need two 
controllers, but both can be connected to the one solar panel.  The least 
expensive controllers don’t use pulse width modulation to control the charge 
rate, and you definitely want to taper the charge as you approach full charge 
and barely charge at all went up to the full voltage (about 14.4V).

It does matter what type of battery you are charging.  The SunGuard does only 
wet cells (standard car-type batteries) whereas the gel-type batteries need a 
somewhat different charging schedule.  Morningstar makes all kinds - so take a 
look at their web page to see the differences.

One strong point of Morningstar is their excellent tech support and on-line 
explanations and diagrams for how to do everything. Recently I had very 
complete helpful tech input from Noah Sindermann there; he responded to my 
emails within a day and figured out the problem and how to fix it (using two 
controllers driven by the same solar panel, you need blocking diodes on their 
inputs).

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Listers,
> 
> I?m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running to 
> my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from a few 
> bucks to over $60. 
> 
> Edd Schillay

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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I also have used a mast mate for the last 5 years, and go up to adjust or fix 
things aloft several times a year, preferably when Cat’s Paw is afloat, not on 
jack stands. But for safety, I wear a climbing harness attached to a spinnaker 
halyard which someone on deck keeps on a winch to take up slack.  All the 
lifting is done by me climbing the ladder, but if I should slip, there is a 
safety.  Also, while at the top, the halyard is tied off so I can rest in the 
climbing harness, making it easier (and safer) to work.  Never had any problems 
with this arrangement.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II

> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?
> I have what is called the mast mate, it's a ladder made of webbing that you 
> pull up the mast track , I climb my mast twice a year to install and remove 
> wind instruments before stepping and dropping the stick . You can usually 
> find an ad for the mast mate I'm the back of most sailing magazines , 
> Sent from Joe Bognar
> 

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Stus-List waterproof iPad covers

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Just got an iPad and want a good waterproof cover.  This was discussed here a 
year or two ago (I didn’t have an iPad then, so didn’t pay attention), but 
rather than search thru the list, could someone mention a good one?  Joel, I 
seem to remember you provided input about this.  Thanks.
Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw C&C 35 II
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Stus-List best varnish for underwater use

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

A friend is painting their sailboard's wooden rudder and centerboard.  Won't be 
left underwater for long periods of time - perhaps a few days at a time.  What 
are your recommendations for what to use? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

This method came up on the list several years ago, with suggestions for making 
the pins with velcro straps.  I made these as mentioned here several years ago 
(took about 10 minutes per pin) and they continue to work very well.  Easy to 
remove to adjust stay tension or remove the mast, but they do not fall out and 
don’t catch on the jib sheets.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> My rigger will not use rings.  Says pins are safer.  Johnson makes pins
> with velcro straps for easy removal.  You could make your own with some
> velcro and whipping thread.
> 
> Joel



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Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I am replacing depth, speed and wind instruments on Cat’s Paw with i50 and i60 
Raymarine instruments.  As noted in an ongoing thread, it is difficult to 
remove the old depth transducer, so is it possible to use the old one with the 
new Raymarine display?  The old transducer is for a Signet Scientific MK172 
instrument, which is probably more than 12 years old but still works fine.  In 
the manual, it states that “The transmitter produces six pulses per second at 
an amplitude of 450 volts peak·to·peak with 63 watts of power output per pulse. 
The high power output is obtained by charging a large capacitor to build a 
large current flow without heavy drain from the external power source. The 
frequency is adjustable from 160 to 200 kHz but is set at the factory for 200 
kHz nominal.”  The transducer that came with the Raymarine instruments is an 
Airmar P319, listed on the tag on its cable as 50/200 KHz. That transducer also 
measures temperature, but I would be happy to forgo that if I didn’t have to 
change the transducer.  Is there a way of testing if the old transducer works 
with the new display while the boat is on the hard (for the winter)?  What 
happens if you test a transducer when it is completely out of water?  Would it 
harm the Raymarine instrument to be connected to the old transducer? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Russ,
Delighted to hear that my language apparently puts me in the “young” category.  
I turned 70 this summer - used to build ham radio transmitters with my father 
using vacuum tubes.  I do have an old handheld weather radio that tunes in AM, 
but the input from this list has convinced me to replace the old transducer.

The input on this subject has been very helpful, especially the suggestions for 
how to remove the old transducer.  It sounds much easier than I had imagined.  
And as Fred points out - who knows - I might need to measure water temperature 
when I sail to Bermuda again - not since 1972 when I sailed to the Azores with 
my father on a lovely 43 foot SS yawl, a sister ship to Finisterre.

Cheers,  Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> Yes Fred. Agreed.
> 
> In my address to Eric, I meant him as the "you" 
> and I assumed he is not old enough to know what 
> an AM radio really is, let alone have one sitting on a shelf somewhere. :)
> 
> And as Marek points out it doesn't verify 
> accurate functionality with the Raymarine head, 
> which is the practical part anyway.
> 
> Now, how about the unreliability issue with the 
> temperature sensing element of the Raymarine 
> transducer? Is it a simple RTD and of what value, 
> so I can haywire something in stead of it?
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> B.C. South Coast, where it has dropped 
> below freezing on some nights now!


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Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

A question about removing a depth transducer to install the new one.  Based on 
earlier input from the list, I have used a 2 inch hole saw from the top. 
Fortunately the diameter of the old transducer is just shy of 2 in and the new 
one requires a 2 in hole. So the body of the old transducer just fits inside 
the hole saw, keeping it lined up with little drag (not cutting much of the 
plastic body of the transducer).  When the inside top of the hole saw reached 
the top of the transducer, I then cut off the top half of the transducer so I 
could proceed drilling down.  Now the hole saw just touches the hull, but the 
inside top of the hole saw hits the top of the transducer, so I will need to 
saw off the next section of the transducer to proceed further.  With my tools, 
not so easy to saw off the transducer just above the hull. Question: what about 
drilling down thru the transducer with a regular drill bit, using the pilot 
hole made by the drill bit in the hole saw, and then, using that hol
 e as a guide, use the hole saw to proceed up from the outside of the hull.  
This would avoid cutting thru more of the transducer (a pain), and the pilot 
hole should guide the hole saw. Sound OK, or better to continue from the top?
Thanks as always for your input.
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Dave - And just to let you know, the two-side method worked beautifully.  Did 
it yesterday.  Thanks to all who responded (and with a single solution!).

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

Oops - sorry frank, another too hasty reply from work...Agreed with other 
poster, drill from both sides.  As suggested, Good practice to score one side 
first anyway to prevent splintering.

> On Dec 11, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Dave Syer  <mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> 
> Frank  - How about knocking the old sensor out and spending two minutes 
> enlarging the hole with a coarse half-round file? (could use a die grinder if 
> air nearby,  or a bit from one on a cordless drill, or a drum sander ona 
> cordless drill, etc)
> Am I missing something?
> 
> Dave
> 



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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you guys 
recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In my 
experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a devil to 
get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be drilled out.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks to all of you who responded so quickly about my question of what 
fasteners to use to attach my new boom vang to the mast and boom.  Clearly the 
consensus is to use SS screws with TefGel, not pop rivets.  Just what I needed 
to know.  Thanks!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List NAVPOD

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Peter,

I have a piece of neoprene material, adhesive on both sides, left over from an 
installation of a chartplotter in a Navpod.  It looks just like the material of 
the Navpod gaskets. White paper on both sides you peel off to expose the 
adhesive.  If you are still looking for a material for your gaskets, I would be 
happy to send you the piece, which you can use to cut out the gaskets you need. 
 The piece is big enough for that, but easy to mail.  If you can use it, just 
let me know your email address (so we can correspond off-list) and a mailing 
address.

Eric  Frank
efran...@mac.com
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 2:39 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Peter Fell
> Subject: Stus-List NAVPOD
> 
> Here?s a bit of a long shot:
> 
> I have an unused Navpod GP131 3-instrument (Raymarine ST60) pedestal guard 
> enclosure. However, I?m missing the gaskets that fit between the pod and the 
> pedestal guard, that incorporate the seal for the cable exit (hope that makes 
> sense). The Navpod guys, Ocean Equipment, aren?t much help ? they don?t stock 
> gaskets for this discontinued product and they didn?t respond to the question 
> as to whether or not another model has a compatible gasket (so I?m thinking 
> the answer is no).
> 
> Does anyone out there have a set of gaskets sitting in their parts bin? Or 
> should I just make some up out of neoprene?
> 
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII



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Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bob,

I have two CP150’s, a slightly earlier version than your 155, and can confirm 
that they do accept all the standard NEMA 0183 codes used for navigation.  Mine 
do require an external antenna to use its internal GPS, but it sounds like you 
are already doing that. But they certainly don’t use that for external input.  
I use mine as a display of COG and SOG that it is getting from the chartplotter 
at the helm.  You do need to match the baud rates, of course.  Also, note that 
the 150 (and I assume 155) do NOT have differential inputs.  Instead, what is 
usually the - NMEA input is called “ground”, pin 3, and the wire is green.  The 
input wire for port 1, pin 4, is blue.

You may have missed that you have to put the CP150 into SLAVE mode to disable 
its own GPS unit and use it as a monitor. Here is the page in the manual that 
explains how to do that:
SLAVE
Press the “MENU” + ADVANCE SETUP + “ENTER” + INPUT OUTPUT + “ENTER” + INTERNAL 
GPS SETUP + “ENTER” + OPERATING MODE + “ENTER”+ SLAVE + “ENTER” 

If you don’t have the manual, I can send you a pdf copy.

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> On Feb 21, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: "bobmor99 ." mailto:bobmo...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Joel,
> 
> It's unclear, from the manual, whether the GPS info must come into the
> Standard Horizon (SH) CP155C chartplotter via the connection to an external
> GPS antenna (the typical setup) or whether it could alternatively come in
> via the NMEA 0183 inbound wire in the Power and NMEA cable (which I do
> have). I tried sending a NMEA GPS data stream into the the plotter via the
> latter path, trying output from a handheld Garmin GPS and from a PC's
> serial (DB9) port but neither stream was seen by the Chartplotter. (I
> verified baud rates and all that.)
> It's looking like the inbound (to the plotter) NMEA wire in the Power and
> NMEA cable is just for DSC and DSE messages.
> It seemed like a doable hack, but now I don't think that's the case.
> Seeing as I don't have the plug at the end of the "Smart GPS Cable", I'm
> going to bail out on this one.
> Cheers,
> Bob M
> P.S. Perhaps too much information, but I would have used the NMEA 0183 GPS
> output from my new SH VX2200 radio as the GPS source if the SH CP155C were
> able to ingest it via the Power and NMEA cable.
> 
> 
> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>> Does the 155 require an external antenna?
>> Joel
>> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List CPN 700i - transducers

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Steve,

I have a Raymarine Seatalk - NMEA converter, about 3 years old but never 
installed.  As Fred says, it’s only 4800 baud, and only does the “normal” NMEA 
sentences, but it does work in both directions.  You can have it for $100 US 
plus shipping if that would be useful. Contact me off-list if you are 
interested.  efran...@mac.com

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> That Raymarine converter is pretty limited in the data it can convert; and it 
> will only do 4800 baud, so if Steve ever wanted to add AIS, he?s need to 
> throw that away and start over.  And if there?s a reasonably-priced way to 
> get to NMEA2000 (which I?ve suggested to Steve already), I?d definitely go 
> that route, as NMEA0183 is kind of the stone knife of marine data?   :^)
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Feb 24, 2016, at 10:03 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> There are SeaTalk >NMEA converters available.
>> Also the CPN700i can certainly provide steering data for an autopilot. What 
>> is can?t do is directly control it the way Raytheon displays can all have 
>> autopilot menus on them.
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>> Ps ? something like this?
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYMARINE-E85001-with-cables-PC-SeaTalk-NMEA-Interface-Box-/281939350144?hash=item41a4e51280:g:HvIAAOSwe7BWxhMd&vxp=mtr
>>  
>> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYMARINE-E85001-with-cables-PC-SeaTalk-NMEA-Interface-Box-/281939350144?hash=item41a4e51280:g:HvIAAOSwe7BWxhMd&vxp=mtr>
>>  
>> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYMARINE-E85001-with-cables-PC-SeaTalk-NMEA-Interface-Box-/281939350144?hash=item41a4e51280:g:HvIAAOSwe7BWxhMd&vxp=mtr
>>  
>> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYMARINE-E85001-with-cables-PC-SeaTalk-NMEA-Interface-Box-/281939350144?hash=item41a4e51280:g:HvIAAOSwe7BWxhMd&vxp=mtr>>




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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Yes.  The mast is out for the winter on my 35 MkII, and there is one keel bolt 
there on the aluminum plate where the mast sits.

Eric
Cat’s Paw

> This is a good question! 
> Anybody out there know the answer? 
> If I can I will be there, it?s always work schedule dependent.
> 
> Thanks for the info Lee! 
> 
> Bill

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Stus-List filling old screw holes in the cabin ceiling liner

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

In replacing some of the old lighting fixtures in Cat’s Paw, I’ve left small 
holes where screws have been removed.  What is recommended to fill these holes 
so they blend in, at least somewhat, with the cream-colored ceiling liner?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I noticed that the grounding wires in the bilge have been cut (since I 
inherited Cat’s Paw in 2005!) so they are not connected to the keel bolts.  I 
can splice wires onto the cut ends to reach the bolts, but what is recommended 
as terminals to connect the wires to the bolts?  It would be helpful if this 
did not involve unscrewing the big nuts on the bolts, but perhaps some 
terminals that connect to the top of the bolts?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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